Best products from r/InfinityTheGame
We found 29 comments on r/InfinityTheGame discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 36 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Gorilla Super Glue Gel, 15 Gram, Clear, (Pack of 1)
- GEL FORMULA: No run control gel formula that is great for use on vertical surfaces
- ANTI CLOG CAP: Helps keep the glue from drying out. It's Gorilla tough use after use.
- IMPACT TOUGH: Specially formulated for increased impact resistance and strength
- FAST-SETTING: Dries in 10-45 seconds. No clamping required.
- VERSATILE: Bonds plastic, wood, metal, ceramic, rubber, leather, paper and more. Not recommended for use on polyethylene or polypropylene plastic or similar materials.
Features:
2. Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades, #1 Knife
Great for delicate, precision cutting, trimming, and strippingCuts paper, plastic, balsa, thin metal, cloth, film and acetateComes with a lightweight handleIncludes No 11 Classic Fine Point BladeThis is an aftermarket of generic partGreat for delicate, precision cutting, trimming, and strippingCuts ...
3. The Army Painter Anti Shine Matt Varnish for Miniature Painting - After Quickshade Matte Top Coat Acrylic Spray Varnish for Miniatures - Matte Finish Spray for Acrylic Model Paint, 400ml, Can
- TAILORED TO REMOVE SHINE AND GLOSSY LOOK : Removes shine after painted with Quickshade or acrylics
- BORN FROM GAMING: Get awesome painted plastic models or craft on the table for a great game!
- RETAINS METALLIC SHINE: Gives perfect matte finish while retaining shine from metal acrylic paint
- GIVES AN ELEGANT AND FINISHED LOOK: Make your miniatures look finished with this satin varnish spray
- WILL NOT CRACK AND CHANGE COLORS: Preserves all colors. If applied properly, it will never crack
- ACRYLIC, NONTOXIC - This varnish is Acrylic-based, transparent matte and dries very quickly
- LET PAINT DRY BEFORE USING: Let the Quickshade dry for minimum 48 hours before using the varnish
- APPLY IN A THIN COAT: Test on a model first before spraying the whole army
- IDEAL PAINT SEALER & CLEAR COAT SPRAY Retouch gloss of protruding details and protect your minis
- NOT IDEAL FOR: Do not use acrylic spray paint varnish in humid conditions and cold outdoor weather
Features:
4. Liquitex Professional Flow Aid Effects Medium, 4-oz
A binder-free aqueous solution with surfactants.Use in conjunction with any acrylic medium or acrylic color when increased flow and absorption and decreased film tension and friction are required.Great for staining effects on raw canvas.
5. Xuron - Xuron - 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - 170-II
- Type: Micro-Shear
- Style: Flush
- Capacity: 18 AWG
- Overall Length (Inch): 5-7/64
- Blister Pack With Generic Card
Features:
7. Rust-Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover Spray Paint
Ideal for interior/exterior use on virtually any surface including wood, plastic, metal, wicker, plaster, unglazed ceramic and moreProvides long lasting protection with any-angle spray comfort tip that reduces finger fatigue and makes it easy to reach hard to paint placesDries to the touch in 20 min...
8. General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z.
- Made In Use
- Will Even Remove Dried On Paints And Paint Stains
- Keep Your Brushes Looking Like New With This Specially Formulated Brush Cleaner And Preserver
- acrylics and watercolors
Features:
9. Snapware Snap 'N Stack Portable Organizer (6.6-Inches by 9.8-Inches, BPA Free Plastic)
- Perfect for storing home office supplies, arts and crafts materials, and much more
- Includes (1) Snap 'N Stack 3-Layer Home Storage Container
- Stackable trays provide quick and easy access to contents, and keep items separate and organized. Additional trays can be added or removed to customize the container as needed
- Durable BPA-free plastic is top-rack dishwasher, freezer and microwave safe
- Made in the USA
- Limited lifetime warranty
Features:
10. Tamiya America, Inc Primer White 180ml, TAM87044
Tamiya Surface Primer White 180ml … 87044
11. Cutters - Xuron Professional Sprue Cutter 2175ET
Recommended for use on soft plastic onlyFull flush cuttingProject type: plastics de-gating, plastic kit modelingMaterials: plastic sprue, plastic (de-gating)Packaged In A Retail Blister Pack
12. "Green Stuff" Blue/Yellow Epoxy Putty
- Extremely Smooth Texture
- No Solvents, No VOC
- No Baking Needed
- Superior Fine Detail for Miniatures
- Long Work Life
Features:
13. Vallejo Painting Miniatures from A to Z Vol 2 Paint
Explains new techniquesTips through hundreds of pictures of the painting processTutorial guides about how to paint all the different Infinity armies
14. Master Lock 7140D Fire-Retardant Steel Security Box with Key Lock, Black
- Fire-retardant steel security box with key lock protects valuables from fire
- Durable steel construction with double-insulated walls
- Lab tested at 1,550 degrees Fahrenheit
- Includes standard key lock with two keys
- Measures 12-5/8 by 4-1/8 by 8-1/4 inches
Features:
15. Excel Sprue Cutter, Blue
- Spring loaded soft grip plier
- Available in Blue
- Made of carbon steel
- Product Dimension: 4.75"L x 2.5"W x 0.43"H
Features:
16. X-Acto #1 Precision Knife | Z-Series, Craft Knife, with Safety Cap, #11 Fine Point Blade, Easy-Change Blade System
- Precision knife with number 11 fine point blade for exact cuts
- Sharp and durable zirconium nitride coated blade
- Lightweight aluminum handle is easy to maneuver
- Easily cuts paper, fabric, thin metal, and plastic
- Safety cap for storage and portability. Zirconium nitride coating for durability
Features:
17. Iwata-Medea Eclipse HP CS Dual Action Airbrush Gun / Gravity Feed
- Features a 0.35mm needle and drop-in self-centering nozzle combination comes with a large 1/3 oz gravity-feed cup
- Generous 1/3 oz sized cup is designed with a new funnel shape, which makes for easy clean up and more efficient paint flow
- The Eclipse CS sprays heavier acrylics and Medea Textile Colors, while maintaining high-detail spray characteristics
- Single cut-away handle
- Spray pattern - hairline to 2" (50-mm) round
Features:
18. Snapware Snap 'N Stack Square 3-Tier Seasonal Ornament Storage Container, 13 by 13-Inch
- Airtight, dust-protective storage with 2 locking tabs on each tier
- Removable dividers organize and protect delicate ornaments
- Handled lid for easy carrying| space-saving stacked design
- Bpa-free plastic is lightweight and durable
- Hand-wash
- Made in the U. S.
- Limited Lifetime
Features:
Thank you! I'm really happy with how they turned out, especially since they are the first miniatures I've ever painted and I was told Infinity is a tough game to start a miniature painting career on.
So the case was actually pretty easy to make, the hardest part was finding the right size container and trimming the steel.
This is the Snapware container I settled on, and I found it on sale for like $4 at my local craft store. Most miniatures are about 2 inches in height so they fit just fine on the larger section, but my father knight ended up being a little over 2.5" so i cut a section out of the bottom of one container to fit him and a future TAG.
The magnets were Primal Horizon 3/16" x 1/16". They fit perfectly in the little round openings on the standard infinity bases. I bought them from a local table top store and they were stupid expensive, so I recommend trying to find some online. I read somewhere that the opening on the bottom of the bases is 4.75mm, and the ones I had were not super tight or loose, so you can prolly wiggle up or down from that diameter a little. Also, I'm not really sure what jherazob's point is with the position of the magnets. The steel I used for the bottom of the box is not magnetized, so you don't need to worry which way the magnets are flipped in the miniature's base.
The metal base is a piece of 22 Gauge steel I picked up from Home Depot. The hard part with the steel was tin snipping it to shape, then using a grinding wheel to smooth out the edges. I think 22 Gauge is the perfect thickness, because it still gives enough thickness for the magnets to adhere strongly to it, but it is thin enough to be easily trimmed and shaped without being so thin that it is easily bent.
I coated the metal with Blaze Blue Plasti-Dip (4 coats), to rubberize the surface and keep the miniatures from sliding. The coating seems pretty durable so far, but I imagine i will show wear in time. I roughed up the top and bottom of the steel with a little high grit sandpaper to help the plasti-dip and contact cement stick to it.
I secured the metal to the bottom of the container using contact cement. Stay away from using a bunch of super glue because it will melt the plastic container. Another benefit of the cement is that it is flexible, so in the event that you drop your case (oh no!) the metal hopefully will not give way.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions!
Things I've learned starting out:
Wash the miniatures. I found the easiest way was those little ziploc plastic containers. Warm dishsoapy water in them, throw a few minis in, scrub them with an old toothbrush, rinse them off and toss them into a second ziploc container filled with plain water. Then drain and refill that a few times to get all the soap out. Be careful you don't dump them down a drain.
Take them out of the warm fresh water and put em onto a plate with a paper towel or something to dry. I like to organize them into which model belongs to what at this point.
I invested on a sprue cutter and it has been WONDERFUL for me to remove pesky mold lines and the bigger tags sticking out of models. Also an xacto knife helps.
I got some cheap needle files from Harbor Freight and they've helped get the flash lines flush without any weirdness.
After your stuffs all pretty and moldline free I tend to toss it into a sonic cleaner because I work at a lab. It might be placebo but the industrial strength badass one at work seems to get clean and I mean... why not? But you can do the water and rinse again. Or even just do it once, after the mold line removal. (Side note: sonic cleaners are PRETTY RADICAL for removing paint from miniatures with some simple green. I love it. Saves me a lot of scrubbing.)
Anyway once its dry I personally use this glue and some stuff called green stuff to fill in gaps. Heres a tut showing the basic idea
Once they're assembled I use some good ol elmer's white glue on the bases and dip em in sand and shake them off. Tutorial that shows that
Then prime your stuff. Tons of tutorials about it and tons of everyone saying which is their favorite primer, spray or brush on, different types of primer, different brands. Some stand by Army Painter or Citadel. I've had good results with Rustoleum Ultra Cover 2x White primer. I've recently picked up some TAMIYA WHITE which I hear good things about. Trying them on some Morats tomorrow.
Lots of other good info has been posted too! I also just started probably, shit, 6 months ago, so this is stuff I've had to pick up and learn as I go.
The guy who painted those models released a book all about his process. It reads like this guide (same guy) and it mentions the paints used.
The book is good but definitely pricey if you're just looking for a paint list. You might be best off finding a user on here or the main forum who doesn't mind transcribing the lists for you, or you might have luck asking the guy directly.
It would probably help if you had a faction/group of minis in mind that you're looking for the colors of.
Oooooor don't worry too much about about matching the marketing images. I've played against several armies that were way off the faction color scheme, their owners just had fun and did what they wanted.
Wow, thanks for all the comments and help guys :) I'm playing combined army so it's likely the avatar would be the biggest model I would play. I was thinking I could use something like this. Its around 4 inches in height and probably small enough to still fit in a backpack which would be great.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B002SH9YC8/ref=psdcmw_1939530031_t3_B002ONB4AG
Tools needed to assemble minis to a very basic finish:
Dikes (side cutters, wire cutters, snips, whatever )
Cyanoacrylate glue. Super glue, Krazy glue, Hobby glue.
Hobby sand paper. Super light to medium grit stuff. Scuffing up the surface of a part can help it stick pretty decently. YOu don't necessarily need to score it with a hobby knife.
Jeweler files
These few items can get your minis looking pretty decent pre-paint. Corvus Belli delivers excellent minis, so flash and off-center molds aren't really a problem. Cleanup the sprue parts with a file and sand paper and glue it all together!
Use mild soapy warm water before gluing because the oils on your hand and such can be problematic for the glue.
Cyanoacrylate is a water-catalyzed glue. Breath on it, or dip the part in watter to flash-cure the outside portion of the glue. Breathing on it is slower. Water almost isntantly makes the glue cure when exposed.
A simple art store and a hardware store can get you serviceable tools, I think. :)
I am using 4mm (nearly 1/4 inch) foamboard purchased from my local Dollar Tree. The foamcore from places like Office Depot is expensive enough that we'd be better served by just buying laser-cut MDF terrain. If I'm looking to experiment, then the "cheap stuff" is more than sufficient, and I honestly can barely tell the difference once the terrain is assembled.
As far as tools go, I am only using a metal straight edge, and a hobby knife. For a while, I was also using a tiny t-square, but I'll be damned if the factory cut edges weren't straighter than what I was getting from the tool. In hind sight, I should have bought on of these.
Getting the lines straight is a beast of a different stripe. That is patience put into practice. Try to draw out as much of the feature as possible so you can take your time with the cuts. Using the metal straight edge as a guide, I drag the knife just over the cut to break the first layer of paper over the foamcore so that the shown edge is as straight and clean as possible. It's super important to use a decently fresh blade. You know you're doing it right when the drawn line looks like it's being erased by the knife; it looks so weird! Once I've made the first cut, I'll line up the second. This cut is for the actual foam of the foamcore. For this cut, the central focus is keeping the blade as straight up-and-down as possible. I do this to ensure that the actual meat of the cut looks as perpendicular as possible to the surface of the material. The third and last cut is for the for the bottom layer of paper. Ultimately it's three cuts per edge, and it's time consuming, but you can't argue with results.
I hope I've answered your questions. If you have any more, please feel free to ask.
I made a list of the tools that I like to keep at my work station.
My recommended buying list for a new painter is:
Tools
Sprays
○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
Brushes
○ Round 0
○ Round 1
○ Round 2
All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.
This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
Vallejo Model Air and Game air are both good lines for airbrushing your models. If you're new to airbrushing then buying airbrush paints are probably the best way to get started, but you can also just thin down your regular paints too. I don't recommend starting by doing this as it's better to learn to control the airbrush with paint that you know should be working properly before you throw in the new variable of paint thinning.
As for airbrushes, I always recommend the Iwata Eclipse. It's both a good starter brush as well as a brush that you will continue to use as you become a more skilled airbrush artist.
For metal minis there are typically two generally types of solutions.
For instance, I'm magnetizing my Star Wars Legion models this way.
I'm using this 13x13 container with has 4" tall "levels":
https://www.amazon.com/Snapware-Seasonal-Ornament-Storage-Container/dp/B00FXLTSI6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522936303&sr=8-1&keywords=ornament+storage+13x13
I'm using this 12x12 sheet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W6ZMQY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
The sheet drops right in, I've secured it with some double-sided tape or you can use glue or whatever. Then I put 6x2mm magnets on the bottom of each figure. You'd want to check the Infinity bases to make sure how thick a magnet will fit the recess but basically that's the process. Metal minis are heavier so you might want a slightly bigger magnet or perhaps two smaller ones. There are probably recommendations online somewhere.
It's fairly cheap, very expandable, and should be able to hold nearly any game.