Best products from r/Justrolledintotheshop

I agree with pretty much everyone else on this sub to a point. Be wary of the tool truck brands, it is EXTREMELY easy to find yourself in loads of debt real fast. I work as a lube tech at a GMC/Buick dealership. Since you're working on European stuff, save yourself some time and order these oil filter sockets. I don't work on a ton of euro cars, but a set like this will be very helpful (GearWrench 41890 6 Piece Oil Canister Socket Set Service Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV2KY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t5NvCbACT91ZE)

Now, HF is good to start off of, and I definitely recommend getting one of their roll carts, but i think their torx sockets are pretty meh and i dont think they have anything for triple squares(Not sure if you need them for LOFs), but Amazon will be your friend. Also, their air tools from what ive used are pretty meh. I haven't touched their impact wrenches, but keep that thing very well oiled and plan on replacing it sooner rather than later. I burned through 4 HF die grinders in the span of 5 months. All were oiled before use every time. After the last one, I went on Amazon and ordered an aircat one. Last 1.5 years have been problem free, but I've noticed that it's been shooting black gunk(read: metal shavings) out the exhaust for the past 3 months. There hasnt been a decrease in performance but i'm going to send it in for warranty anyways. They also make a large variety of air tools(it's in the name) and ive heard nothing but good things about them. Same with Astro pneumatic tools. Can acquire both from Amazon. I also shop frequently from another online vendor known as the Jersey Discount Tool Company. Search the app JDTCo on your appstore or find the Snap on/Mac/ Matco buy sell trade page on Facebook. Both are run by a guy named nick. He can beat pretty much anyone on anything gearwrench, milwaukee, dewalt, sunex and various other brands. Dude has saved me a ton of money as well as many others, so shameless plug.

Other than that, if you do want to buy from the truck brands, have a list of things you want, and hunt deals and monthly fliers. If you're a student, get on the student discount train and ride that.

Other than that, good luck!

Edit: I forgot these are the bees knees when working on Euro cars: European M14 x 1.5 Professional Stainless Steel Wheel Hanger Studs (Set of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2WE27G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FoOvCb7B70M93

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

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In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

My friend has this one and it seems to work well enough actually. I'm going to order one for myself right now. I have a magnetic phone mount that goes in my CD slot that works really well due to the layout in my car. I might use a spare phone to run as extra gauges and a music player. You could get a BlueDriver but those are about $100 though I hear they are really awesome. Though honestly for just $10 it can't hurt to at least try it out.

Edit: For $20 this one looks to be a bit nicer. I'm ordering one for myself right now. Thanks for reminding me. These are really handy tools and just plain fun to play around with.

'99 Intrigue and '00 Century here.

Second gen W-body was a better car than the first gen. Very easy architecture to mess around with.

This is a VERY GOOD car for messing around with. Parts are very cheap and interchange with a huge variety of GM vehicles. You can get performance-grade parts out of the junkyard and build a very good handling car with a smooth ride for next to nothing.

Those factory trailing arms are some shit though. Replace them with the Dorman tubular ones, they are much better than stock and come with bushings.

If your brackets are rusted as in OP's photo, $14 fixes that

If you wanna talk W-body suspension:

The front control arm bushings are a shitty rubber design too and usually fail within 150k miles. Replace with Moog ball-and-socket design, part # K200787 ($23 on RockAuto). Rust is not horrible in my area so I re-used the original control arms, gave them a good coat of anti-rust paint though. Even if you just get new control arms (if you do, buy control arms with greaseable ball joints), I suggest pressing out the supplied bushings and replacing with the Moog part. Noticeable improvement in ride.

Hollow factory front sway bar on W-bodies tends to rust, and the crimped ends tend to crack. Replace with Dorman 927100 solid sway bar. DO NOT use the bushings and links that come with the sway bar, they are garbage and will start squeaking within 15,000 miles. Use Moog K700527 links (with polyurethane bushings and barrel nuts) and Moog K80815 sway bar bushings (polyurethane), lube with silicone grease before install.

Your car will ride like new after this (assuming the struts are in good shape). I know it sounds like a lot but we are talking around $200 for like-new ride, maybe $300 if you want brand new control arms.

The outer tie rod ends are also a weak point. Again, Moog makes a noticeably better one than the competitors.

If/when your old struts are shot (hint, if you're over 100k miles, they probably are), buy the ones spec'd for the Intrigue. Better handling, same cost. Get springs out of an Intrigue (front Intrigue springs were also used on Aurora, LeSabre, and Bonneville, rear Intrigue springs were also used on v8 Impala, v8 Grand Prix, and v8 Monte Carlo) in the junkyard. While you're in the junkyard, get a strut tower bar out of a Regal or Monte Carlo (some police Impalas might have them too?)

When the time comes for brakes, there are also "junkyard upgrades" available -- some work with 16" wheels, some require 17" wheels.

I don't know everything about cars, but I know a lot about W-body suspensions!

I love the GM w-body. It's a cheap platform, reliable, and easy to work on. Of course, I live south of the Mason-Dixon, so I don't have the rust issues they do up north.

I am a big fan of Kester's 331 organic flux core solder. It is available in a variety of diameters and in both leaded and lead free varieties. The "organic flux" is water soluble, which makes cleaning up your boards very easy. If you're just doing wire to wire or wire to terminal joints it's still very good solder. Just be ware that that many of the sizes of this solder are pretty fine. On one extreme it's great for PCB work and on the other extreme I've crimped/soldered 2 gauge battery terminals with it. In the second case I used a couple of feet off the spool, but it did the job fine.

It's somewhat pricey, but a one pound spool will last you for a long time. Interestingly, Amazon appears to be pretty price competitive with newark, mouser, and digi-key. They even have prime shipping. Just double check the gauge before you buy (I linked to the spool I own, which is 0.80mm/21 AWG).

I've used 3 different right angle drill attachments in the last few years. The first was a Milwaukee 110º one and it was alright, price was 15 dollars, I've killed that one. Then I bought this one for 20 at the time and it has been great, way nicer than my first adapter. I am still using it today.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/

My friend has this 50 dollar Milwaukee one and its amazing. Way nicer than my dewalt and it can take a lot of torque. I've never got one since its a little bit thicker than the dewalt and most of the time space is an issue for me.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-22-8510-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B000BYEJ02/

If you already have invested in a brand of cordless tools looks for whatever your brand offers, most higher-end brands usually are pretty comparable these days.

I've used the milwaukee m18 impact for a while and I've had much better luck with it than I've had with air tools on a too small compressor. A quick search shows Dewalt and Makita both have equivalents that are probably quite good as well.

Depends on how you define "work".

Does it change how your engine runs, and give you a noticeable difference from stock? More than likely.

Is the way your engine now runs healthy and effective long term? Almost assuredly not.

An engine runs as a complete system, and you can't just change one input into that system to be properly effective. If you tweak one piece, you have to tweak the others to account for it, both physically (larger intakes, turbo/super charger, etc) and electronically (different mapping, etc).

If you want a really good explanation and understanding of the basics of engine tuning, I suggest the Corky Bell book called Maximum Boost. It explains what the various sensors do and how they affect the engine "maps", and you can quickly see just how lame these types of "chips" actually are.

They prey on people who don't understand basic engine tuning.

But on the bright side, they probably come with a "type R" sticker.

If you really really really hate the idea of soldering, you can use these: https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7

They solder and heatshrink and encapsulate all at once, which is amazing, but they're expensive.

Edit: Also, if you want an iron that's amazing for working on cars, here's the unit I use. It's a butane powered iron. Gets hot in like 10 seconds and works way better than the $25 firestarter turds they sell at the hardware store. http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/Soldering-Irons-Accessories/Soldering-Irons/UT-100SI-32612

i've been really happy with those Hansen trays. Works great for the standard-size sockets. The problems always come when you get to the weird sockets, like swivels and spark plugs and stuff. For my swivels I just keep them on the rail they were bought with, and then I just got some plastic divider thingies from menards [edit: this one and those fit my "normal" ratchets, the extended swivels, and spark plugs. Actually in my top drawer i have two of those, and then the second one has my extensions in one pocket and then pens/lights in the lower.

Yeah, I know it's a small chance. But sometimes you'll see a description of a problem and go "THAT'S EXACTLY IT!".

Oh? Well -that- I can help out with, for under $30! Setup is mainly bluetooth pairing and turning on the app, worked instantly for me. App decodes codes or looks them up for you, too!
Here's an adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And here's the app to use it ($5):
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

Itunes (I haven't used this, but have heard the name recommended before):
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/obd-fusion-obd2-vehicle-scan-tool-diagnostics/id650684932?mt=8

Alternative iTunes(again, not an apple user, but heard good things):

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bluedriver-obd2-scan-tool/id445403397?mt=8

On my car yes, because it's gasoline. I'm trying to say that vehicles with low manifold vacuum like diesels often have external vacuum pumps. Didn't realize this was such a controversial opinion. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-214-Electrical-Vacuum-Select/dp/B001KQF6PC

​

Now, if the brakes are powered by hydraulic assist from the power steering instead then fair enough. I ain't a diesel guy.

​

Will seppuku restore my honor?

Totally man. I don't mind paying for good tools, but after a certain point you just get diminishing returns. The truck guys might make sense for someone who makes a living from their tools and, for some reason, can't drive to a store or wait 2 days for a replacement in the mail, but for anything else there's good tools to be found for reasonable cost.

For example, I love my Tekton 1/2" torque wrench. Thing is sturdy as hell, comes in a nice case, will do anything from 10ftlbs to 150ftlbs, and is only $40. It was the first tool I got from them, and I've been so impressed that nearly all of the hand tools I've purchased sense have been Tekton, if they make the tool in question.

I do occasionally end up at HF if I really need the thing same-day, or don't expect to use it more than a few times a year, but for the basics it's hard to beat Tekton in my experience. Hell, just the other day, I needed a T8 Securty Torx bit, so I ordered this thing and it's way better made than I expected it to be.

Reading back over this, I sound like a corporate shill, but I've found it hard to beat Tekton's intersection of price, quality, and Prime shipping.

An ASSTOY640 oil filter wrench. They are used to remove the caps of cartridge filter housings (an example with the tool to remove it installed on it) which manufacturers from many makes have started using in place of standard spin-on oil filters.

Instead these housings are a reusable plastic or metal container that house a replaceable filter element (this one is an example of a Prius filter) and depending on the vehicle manufacturer some require special tools to remove the cap correctly without damage.

Others though use a nut on top that you can buy a special socket set for although depending on the access available, you can sometimes use a regular 1/2 drive socket instead (Dodge Grand Caravans for example as they take a 24mm socket to remove).

The main reason why this tool failed though is because many Toyota models are known for breaking these tools when people overtighten the housings on reinstall and then when the next guy goes to remove the housing, it's simply on too tight for the tool to be able to withstand the force required to remove it. Heck I've seen one on so tight that an air hammer was required to finally remove it, followed by the last guy who installed it getting an earful about it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00267PZUK/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

I have used this exact tool many times. It works very well with minimal effort. Do not get the engine hot for long. 5 min max to allow the aluminum head to expand enough but not the steel plug. Use 1//2 hand tools as well, 3/8 tend to flex. Source- Ford Tech.

Something I've always been taught in strap recoveries is to throw your jacket or a blanket over the middle of the strap. Beats a hook to the back of the head.

Edit: I'm copying this from my comment below so more people see it -

Other than just taking some energy out, it will also change the direction of the hook/"whatever is still attached to strap" towards not straight at you or the other driver-it has killed people.

For pulling someone out, always use a recovery strap, or this can happen:

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/fire/reports/face200622.html

http://www.4x4training.com/Articles/DeadlyMistakes/DontLoseYourHead.html

NEVER USE THIS KIND OF STRAP: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Heavy-Duty-Strap-Hook/dp/B000IAIP72/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396559247&sr=1-1

If that hook slides off or breaks, it will go through the back windshield, your head, and the front windshield, like they weren't even there.

Buy a recovery strap and hook it into your hitch like this: http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/46283968+w600+re0/129-1307-01%2Blow-buck-liberation-getting-unstuck%2Btow-strap-in-hitch-pin

Use a properly rated D-ring/Shackle that is specifically rated for loads, and more importantly--IS RATED FOR A HIGHER LOAD THAN YOUR STRAP. You never, ever want to have the shackle be the point of failure, or it turns into a missile.

It is better to walk home after getting stuck than to get carried to the morgue. Remember-Stay safe, stay alive.

I bought an oil filter socket on amazon, didn't get the 15/16" socket since my giant crescent wrench fits the nut perfectly to get that filter off. I swear to the gods of car motors that I will never go to a Jiffy Lube ever again. I found out that they didn't replace my filter (I used a permanent marker to write the date and milage on the bottom of the filter where you can see it. I checked later that day and there it was still . I called up the shop and told them what I found. They offered a free oil change, naturally I declined)

I just got a relatively nice 1/2" Tekton torque wrench for $37. They have a longer one that goes up to 250 ft-lb for $54. I'm not saying it's the best, but it's solidly middle-of-the-road and way better than HF.

Torque wrenches are precision equipment and should be treated as such. Don't apply more than 150 ft-lb in the reverse direction (i.e. dont use it as a breaker bar). For the models that have to be stored with the torque set at the lowest setting... make sure you do that.

That wasn't the original question at all. He asked if they were truly that much. Yes, they are. Then he blamed corporate. Which is completely wrong.

They're that much for multiple reasons. They properly tension the tie to the correct tension every time. They also ensure that the tie is cut off perfectly flush with the head of the ziptie, meaning you don't need any additional tools.

Even further than that, like many electricians tools, the panduit tie-wrap gun and panduit tie-wraps have multiple UL, CSA, military ratings etc that you only get to use when you have the proper tool. Just like the Thomas and Betts (T&B) tool.. https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-ERG120-Ty-Rap-Installation/dp/B001VXW968

As far as comparing tools... You wouldn't compare a set of Wago screwdrivers to a set of Harbor Freight screwdrivers, would you? No, because you know that Wago makes a superior product with tips that don't typically bend, break, or wear off. It's the same thing, comparing a known good product to a chinese knockoff. Again, a rated tool vs. a non rated tool.

Same to you, heard the Lisle tool http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK is amazing to use FYI.

I got this one a couple years ago for a specific job and have since found myself using it quite often. I actually just used it today! It works great. The day it breaks, I'll be buying another one immediately.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Amazon

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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have two of these. Work great. I have only used them in Ford vehicles though.

Honestly, if i ever get a cordless half inch impact, its going to be this, a tech at work has that snap on one, its pretty good, but for the price id rather get the IR

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTQW7JA

I've never had a nut that it couldn't take off. I've used it in everything from taking off lawn mower blades to nuts on my tractor and implements.

Some of the bolts on the implements you could barely tell there is thread with how rusted they are. Good luck on the future.

You, Sir... need to be turned on to these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-DuraSeal-Butt-Splices-22-18-10-Clam-Heat-Shrink-CPGI-D-406-0001-10/202204344

They've got these, too... which are pretty awesome(Heatshrink with solder!):
https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Ingersoll-W7150-K1-High-Torque-Impactool-Charger/dp/B007LHJI4E/ref=pd_cp_hi_1


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

If you're ever doing these plugs; you gotta have the removal tool. Once the plug breaks, this tool is pretty slick and even the rear plugs (which are most common to break) aren't that big a deal to get out.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

OBD to bluetooth dongle? Like this?

I had a cheap Campbell Hausfeld and a pancake. Totally worthless. It had good power for like 3 seconds as others say.

I had the enjoyment of removing a pitman arm off of my '74 Corvette earlier this year. I invested in a DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LoiRzbYFQV4AR

Oh man is this impact is dangerous. If a nut wont give, it'll snap the stud instead. Ask me how I now. Plenty enough power for me.

Probably with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

They break so frequently that there are special tools to deal with the issue.

They look like these.

http://www.amazon.com/Hansen-Global-92000-Metric-Storage/dp/B001C6NL52/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426925670&sr=8-1&keywords=hansen+socket+tray

But $10 is a lot for a plastic tray with some numbers on it.

They literally make a special tool just for these spark plugs.

Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zScYAbZ8CKP2V

Ford actually has a special spark plug removal tool just for the 5.4 engine

Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W5b.BbD5AXQDM

Yep. They're called Hansen trays I believe.
http://www.amazon.com/Hansen-Global-Socket-Tray-Pack/dp/B001C6NL52/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398258178&sr=1-1&keywords=hansen+socket+tray

This is the 65600 not your 65700, I don't know the difference, but read the first review- you won't be disappointed.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

use the ford spark plug puller tool...http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412615698&sr=8-1&keywords=ford+f150+spark+plug+removal+tool

Im guessing if you havent heard of the Lisle 5.4l 3v Broken Spark Plug Removal Set, is you havent heard of the hot extraction method.

I recommend always trying this hot extraction method first. Then have the Lisle handy for when they break anyway.

Something like the Lisle Broken Spark Plug Remover for the 3v Ford Tritons?

Extra battery costs $80? No thanks. I'll let it sit on the charger for an hour.

http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-W7150-K1-High-Torque-Impactool-Charger/dp/B007LHJI4E/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

(A spare battery is actually $100 o_o I think I'd probably get a generic battery and replace it sooner.)

buy this to extract the remaining bits of the plug http://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1450292568&sr=1-1&keywords=lisle+spark+plug+removal+tool

They are called Hansen Socket Trays. I think he got his at Harbor Freight but just about anywhere that sells tools should carry them.

Maybe you could use a bluetooth OBDII scanner

Buy this tool before you even start a plug change on a ford 5.4

www.amazon.com/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_RPTjub1GBHJJJ

I use one of these at work. They will break your arm if you aint careful. http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-W7150-K1-High-Torque-Impactool-Charger/dp/B007LHJI4E

>Some Chinese piece, not sure myself

There is your number one problem. Should have gotten a decent OBD2 reader. I spent $25 on the bafx one, and skipped the cheap ELM127 ones, and I am happy I did. This looks more like an issue with the reader itself not being able to interpret the readout correctly(like from a wrong interface spec). Have you checked "hide unsupported sensors" in the options of Torque? Are there any other fault codes besides P0420, and what car is it? Also, with the adapter plugged in, go to the "adapter status" page, and scroll down to see what sensors that the computer reports are supported. see what those "bank1" sensors relate to.

Edit: they usually related to the pre and post cat O2 sensors, now that I think about it. See my other post as well.

I did mine already with a replacement 1 piece. Not 1 of them broke. bought the Lisle 5.4l 3v Extractor tool and never needed it. Ty for the heads up. (lent it out because ill never need it again, and my buddy broke 5 and saved a fuckton doing it himself)

Edit: My issue with mine right now is the cam phasers. Im thinking of using the cam phaser lock out kit. cheap vehicle, cheap fixes.

An extractor tool that has sharp tapered threads which grab the broken piece, and is also threaded on the outside to act as a puller.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

I've been using an Ingersoll Rand 20v for over a year now with no problems. I'll never go back to air.