(Part 2) Best products from r/Justrolledintotheshop

We found 58 comments on r/Justrolledintotheshop discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 1,111 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

Top comments mentioning products on r/Justrolledintotheshop:

u/Tonycivic · 7 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I agree with pretty much everyone else on this sub to a point. Be wary of the tool truck brands, it is EXTREMELY easy to find yourself in loads of debt real fast. I work as a lube tech at a GMC/Buick dealership. Since you're working on European stuff, save yourself some time and order these oil filter sockets. I don't work on a ton of euro cars, but a set like this will be very helpful (GearWrench 41890 6 Piece Oil Canister Socket Set Service Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV2KY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t5NvCbACT91ZE)

Now, HF is good to start off of, and I definitely recommend getting one of their roll carts, but i think their torx sockets are pretty meh and i dont think they have anything for triple squares(Not sure if you need them for LOFs), but Amazon will be your friend. Also, their air tools from what ive used are pretty meh. I haven't touched their impact wrenches, but keep that thing very well oiled and plan on replacing it sooner rather than later. I burned through 4 HF die grinders in the span of 5 months. All were oiled before use every time. After the last one, I went on Amazon and ordered an aircat one. Last 1.5 years have been problem free, but I've noticed that it's been shooting black gunk(read: metal shavings) out the exhaust for the past 3 months. There hasnt been a decrease in performance but i'm going to send it in for warranty anyways. They also make a large variety of air tools(it's in the name) and ive heard nothing but good things about them. Same with Astro pneumatic tools. Can acquire both from Amazon. I also shop frequently from another online vendor known as the Jersey Discount Tool Company. Search the app JDTCo on your appstore or find the Snap on/Mac/ Matco buy sell trade page on Facebook. Both are run by a guy named nick. He can beat pretty much anyone on anything gearwrench, milwaukee, dewalt, sunex and various other brands. Dude has saved me a ton of money as well as many others, so shameless plug.

Other than that, if you do want to buy from the truck brands, have a list of things you want, and hunt deals and monthly fliers. If you're a student, get on the student discount train and ride that.

Other than that, good luck!

Edit: I forgot these are the bees knees when working on Euro cars: European M14 x 1.5 Professional Stainless Steel Wheel Hanger Studs (Set of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2WE27G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FoOvCb7B70M93

u/WhyAtlas · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

You're missing my point. A lamp can be compliant with the standards, be a poorly designed one, or the best one available, but if its not properly aimed, they can both cause a problem for other drivers. Its not necessarily a problem of design, but the implementation.

And your MG has 5.75" headlamps right? Upgrading your lighting absolutley is worth it, if you do a lot of night driving an like being able to see.

JW Speaker has some excellent 5.75" LED headlamps. They are prupose built, well designed and an absolutely massive upgrade from halogens available in that format. They are also compliant with SAE standards, and if you aim them properly, are going to let you see very well and also minimize glare for oncoming drivers.

If you have 7" round halogens, you have more options. Cheapest, but still very good is GE Nighthawk 7" sealed beams. They are the best 7" sealed beam available.

Better than that is Hella https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001G72SKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457218047&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=h4+7+inch+headlight&dpPl=1&dpID=51Japi47DSL&ref=plSrch but you have to makr sure you're getting the correct ones for the US. Left Hand Traffic.

Better still, with a replaceable bulb option, would be to find a set of Cibie Z-Beams, which are unfortunately out if production.

Upgrading to LED can get you either the Gen2 Truck Lite 7" round LED lamp, which has a decent low beam and a very, very good high beam. Or a set of JW Speaker 8700/8700 Evolutions/8700 Evolution 2's. The Evo2's is their newest model, and by far the best LED headlamp in that format on the market, in terms of both high and low beams. Unfortunately, not cheap, but awesome lights, and fully compliant with all SAE standards.

u/eddieotoniel · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Are you going to be doing it?? If so buy your timing kit on amazon this is the one I bought and has all required pieces for super cheap. Verified all pieces were identical to my focus ST kit including the length of the crank pin you insert In the rear of the block so don’t be afraid of it being so cheap lol.
There’s a strand of videos made by BaxRok2 on YouTube titled timing up Mazda ford 2.0/2.3/2.5 he’s doing it on a stand with a non turbo motor but the procedure is almost completely identical. Watch those videos a few times for confidence.
Only difference in his videos is your cam holder is shaped totally different like an L since we have a HPFP on the ecoboost engine and the harmonic balancer on the rover is also diff than any of the ones in any of the ford cars so it doesn’t line up with a m8 bolt like he shows in the vid. That tool kit comes with a special arm/holding tool thing that aligns the balancer in place to install the crank sensor. Also bought my replacement phaser from ford rather than Range Rover. Called in the part number on the phaser/camsprocket and got it for 65$ rather than Rovers price of 180$

The intake phaser pin popping out and failing like that is the same issue for all ford 2.0 eco boosts, Mazda speed models, and Mazda CX-9

Ask me any questions if you want i love to help when I can I’ve done this job too many times now to count lol



Bests Q Engine Timing Tool Kit for Range Land Rover JLR 2.0 Si4 Evoque Freelander Discovery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R23PS2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k8LFDb083JWZD

u/gimpwiz · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

---

In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

u/1HONDAPRELUDE · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I got these for around $30 and absolutely love 'em. The magnetic and swivels are great.

u/PeabodyJFranklin · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Used this kit on my last car, took the lights from a yellow haze you couldn't see through, to a clear lens on one size, and slightly distorted but clear on the other (let it get too hot while sanding). I'd resisted using it, but afterwards felt it was well worth the purchase.

u/the_finest_gibberish · 4 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

do yourself a favor and get a nice pair of flexible hose clamp pliers

Barring that, even just regular hose clamp pliers are miles ahead of using whatever random pliers are laying in your toolbox.

u/SlimeQSlimeball · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

ADATA SU800 256GB 3D-NAND 2.5 Inch SATA III High Speed Read & Write up to 560MB/s & 520MB/s Solid State Drive (ASU800SS-256GT-C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K8A2A0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3XC7BbQDJK3HS

46 actually, I bought on a special deal. It loads windows 7 from post in seconds.

Totally worth it and bigger sizes are still reasonably priced. I have a 1tb drive for apps and games.

u/nahman3m · 9 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Nah man just get that 3M kit for 20 bucks. Cleaned up my headlights like new and it has a protection wax so the issue hopefully doesn't reoccur for a while. You get a polishing drill bit too so no elbow grease required. I believe there are three different grits of sandpaper used and a sealing compound at the end. (including the MAGIC trizack disc!) its a wet sand.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY


theres enough stuff in that kit to do at least 2 cars.

the most time consuming part is taping off the lights so that you dont scratch the paint with the sandpaper.

u/senorpoop · 26 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

> PB blaster

Allow me to introduce you to Aero Kroil. I used PB Blaster for years, then a machinist friend introduced me to this stuff. You'll never look back.

u/machinerer · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Title: Rewinding Small Motors

Authors: Daniel H. Braymer & A. C. Roe

Publisher: McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc. New York & London. 1932.

Copyright, 1925, 1932. Second Edition, Nineteenth Impression. 263 pages.

​

It is a fantastic technical resource, with much in depth data and techniques. It covers AC and DC motors. There is even a section on two phase motors, which are long obsolete now. It includes innumerable technical drawings, blueprints, and photographs.

​

EDIT: Found it!

https://www.amazon.com/Rewinding-small-motors-step-step/dp/B0008603Q2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=rewinding+small+motors&qid=1574906359&sr=8-2

u/TeamJim · 4 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O

That's an inexpensive one. I've got it for personal use and it's pretty solid.

u/myself248 · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Kroil.

I've won bets with a can of Kroil and a Knipex Cobra.

u/aae42 · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

local lube shop just hand tightens the oil filters


...


then they put this on it:
https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Multiplier-Lug-Nut-Wrench/dp/B00FPS5SQS

u/hobodoompants · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

This could be the subject of a subreddit all on it's own. I do have to mention though that these have changed my life:

http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Extension-Ratchet-Mechanic-Tools/dp/B00129IG7W

Highly highly highly recommended!

u/nobilisvir · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

I've found these work better than anything I've ever tried.

TEKTON 5866 12-Inch Oil Filter Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPR33O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6OzAub010K5RS

u/bigj231 · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

I've used those, and they do work fairly well if you can get them to grip. It's a specialty tool though, and everyone has a screwdriver.

Mine has a 3/8 square hole in it and requires a short extension. I still grab the screwdriver when it's really stuck though, mostly out of habit.

These usually work fairly well too: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5866-12-Inch-Filter-Pliers/dp/B000NPR33O/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_1_2

u/jbrandt01 · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-203032-Flexible-Extension/dp/B00129IG7W

Not sure I'd attempt a final torque with one, but getting all the way on then busting knuckles for the final chooch is worth it.

u/kkemp13 · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Also found this on Amazon... GEARWRENCH 10 Pc. 1/4" & 3/8" Drive 6 Point 10mm Socket Set - 80319 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LH7DM14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3SdXDbGN361DD

u/Ironman_gq · 6 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

There is a tool out there that grabs the tabs and can open up the clamp, handy as hell for the spring clamps and no chance of stabbing your hand.OTC 4525 Cable-Type Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u.iwybNKCBDGN