Best products from r/Kayaking

Update:

The bottom is a hard line keel for both the Pungo and the Loon. The Loon has sloping sides, whereas the Pungo is hard-chined. I wouldn't think there would be much performance difference, but the stability of the Pungo could be a bit better. Don't have pics of that.

I have had the Loon out on the water like 5 times now. It handled the first time with a bit of chop pretty well. Then three of the times, in placid water, it was so sleek it was like a dream. The other time it was in moderate chop, it did feel stable, but I didn't venture too far from shore.

It tracks very well, turns on what to me feels like a dime. My friend had a LL Bean Manatee (10') and I easily went in circles around it in terms of speed and tracking.
Here are two other pics for reference on the water. I like the side view because it shows how low in the water it sits. I believe this is good for flat-water kayaking since it reduces the wind drag. It moderately protects against water coming over the bow, but I'm sure a touring or sea kayak would be better in that department: http://imgur.com/a/N617B

Finally, it is soooo comfortable, at least compared with numerous rental boats I've tried over the years. I could sit in it for hours. Width and length are great to stretch out, and the seat is awesome. I'd recommend getting a high back PFD. I literally tried 5 of them with the kayak, and the two best for me were: Astral http://amzn.to/29rVAMB and Onyx: http://amzn.to/2920ZrR (the one I bought)

For some reason every comment in this thread seems to get downvoted. I'm rather curious as to why that would be.

Also, you say you have a factory rack; are there cross rails installed, or just the front to back? If there are no crossrails, you will have to add them. I recommend Thule, but it doesn't matter very much; just settle on a pair that you feel is a good value and doesn't cause too much wind noise.

There are quite a few options, depending on budget, frequency of use, and what else you intend to do. Let me offer a few suggestions ranging in price.

1. Simplest/cheapest: foam blocks and web straps. Less than $50 total, but the least convenient and the least secure.
   
   
2. J-bars: the standard approach for one boat, and available in a few different choices by budget and special features. Price can vary from $50 for a cheap set on ebay, to $150 for the deluxe foldable ones.
   
   
3. Specialized single-boat carriers, such as Yakima's roller setup or the Hull-a-vator.
   
   
4. Multi-boat: "stacker" setups, available from both Thule and Yakima with only subtle differences.
   
   No matter which solution you choose, you will need some web straps. Most kits come with some, but there's no harm in having extras. NRS and Thule make the best straps, if you're willing to pay $15 or more per strap. I found some cheapies at Harbor Freight for all of $2 each, which work perfectly and since they're so cheap, I just bought a ton of them and cut a pair to length for each boat's specific needs. (Six boat fleet). I'm sure there are similar deals on Amazon and eBay, but I saw these at the local store and I just grab another set whenever I see them on sale. I have a few sets of high-end straps, but after lots of trial and error I've settled on the cheap ones for all kayak transport, and the premium straps only come out for the wood canoe (because they're rubberized to better protect the surface; not an issue with a plastic boat.)
   
   With the factory roof rack, the most basic recommendation would be to just use the foam blocks and a few web straps. This solution gets you safely on the road for less than $50. The foam blocks are essentially generic; different shops sell different brands for different prices, but what you would want are two of the wide "V" shaped blocks to mount to the top of your roof rails. Example from Amazon. I used a knife to shape the bottom of the blocks to "lock" on to my factory bars, but even if you do that perfectly you'll still want to remove the blocks when not transporting your boat. Put the blocks on your factory rails, set the boat on top of the foam blocks, and tie the boat down with straps. For this method, wrap the strap around the bar twice on each side of the kayak twice to keep it from sliding sideways. The strap should wrap around the roof bar on both sides of the kayak, running above the boat twice, not passing under the boat at all. It's hard to explain, so if you're confused ask and I'll go take a picture of my straps outside.
   
   The next up is j-bars... despite extensive downvotes, the conversation elsewhere in this thread on them explains them adequately. J bars are fairly foolproof as long as you remember to secure them even minimally with a strap. They require a bit more lifting than any other solution, but once you've got the boat up, it will stay put, and you're unlikely to ever warp your hull.
   
   Fancier solutions:
   Yakima rollers - I just helped a friend set these up for her Carolina, and she loves it. She has back problems, but the roller setup makes loading really easy. The downside is that it does little to simplify tying down; you're still essentially stuck doing the double loop method that you'd need with the foam blocks.
   
   Hullavator - it's essentially a J-bar that hydraulically lowers down from your roof. It's the most expensive and sophisticated option there is. It's a luxury item that costs almost as much as your boat. You don't need it.
   
   Stackers - I wouldn't actually recommend stackers for your setup. Know that they exist; they're essentially a set of vertical towers that you can use as attachment points to secure multiple boats. A set of stackers can carry up to six boats safely, or more if used creatively. For one boat, stackers add unnecessary compromises. But they are the most versatile solution available, and a prudent choice if you know you're gonna get addicted and buy more boats.

In the industry, you have what is referred to as a "naked roof". This makes installing a conventional roofrack tricky, but fear not there are alternatives.

One option is to get "towers" that strap under the door and are cinched tight. These work well and my brother has one for his Mazda Protege.

Once you have the towers on, you can get bars that well exceed the width of the vehicle, making transporting two yaks pretty easy.

Although you have short yaks which means they are fat. One way to make stacking boats easier on a roofrack is get a jbar, so the boat can be positioned vertically. I love my Yakima j-bars myself, but you can get cheaper knockoffs from Amazon.

When shopping for bars, there are three types. Flat (factor bars), square (thule), and round (Yakima/generic). I prefer round myself and they fit a number of common saddles and j-bars.

If you really want to save on money, here is dirt cheap tower and round bar set that I used to use on my Corolla:

http://www.prolineracks.com/proline-cb602-universal-car-roof-rack.html

40 dollars...much cheaper than a name-brand like Yakima and easy to install yourself...but the Yakima versions are much better quality.

For j-bars, you can get a dirt cheap set like this for $25...but honestly these don't fit fat kayaks well (doable though, but not ideal):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V57NUQ/ref=oh_o00_s00_i01_details

My vote would be for a name-brand j-bar like Yakima:

For even more room you could get folding cradles.

If you call Yakima's sales support, they can give you a ton of useful information.

As you have whitewater kayaking experience, your biggest obstacle is learning more about the ocean and getting experience paddling on it in safer areas than the Inside Passage.

As you live in the Rockies, that would probably consist of some more trips to the PNW, for several days at a time. I'd buy a 17" sea kayak. If you can find something on Craigslist, great, but there's a lot of overpriced junk on there too. Then again, if you're in no rush, you can wait for something good to come along.

Here's a great guide on buying a kayak

The best how-to book on paddling the Passage is Alone in the Passage. It tells you everything you need to take, where to camp, where to send food packages ahead of time, etc. It's great.

The best book on ocean kayaking I've found is Sea Kayak. It covers a tremendous amount of material in a concise, clear manner.

One more book I'd recommend is Sea Kayak Navigation.

The three books together will give you a lot of what you need to know. They're worth reading and re-reading during the winter months while you plan your summer trips.

Here is my evolution of racks (originally posted here:

I've just finished trying solutions for getting my 60lb poly Tempest 170 on the roof (almost always solo).

First I used inflatable roof racks from Malone, which get the job done surprisingly well, but lifting the 17 foot boat up there remained a challenge.

Second I shifted to J racks as i hated watching the hull deform a bit (temporarily only) by tying the poly boat down on the inflatable. So I got these Malone J Racks. I like these racks, but they add a few inches to the height needed to lift the boat. I could do it, but tended to scrape the car and boat up a bit. That and eventually I was going to injure my back.

Third I got the Malone Telos Load Assist which seemed like a nice, more affordable solution to load assist than the Thule Hullavator. It can be moved from side to side and vehicle to vehicle so the more boats you are loading (requiring Malone J racks) the cheaper it is effectively. The Telos system works, but ins't perfect. It was still scratching my boat up too much, and my side mirror even when folded in. Honestly for smaller boats it would have been just fine.

Finally I caved and returned the Telos and ordered the Thule Hullavator (Note that you can get it cheaper from other places than amazon, but Amazon is convenient to link to for reviews and such). It is silly how pricey it is, but it simply works. I don't risk my back or my gear when loading or unloading, and it is cake to work with.

Been a few months of use and I am SO happy with the final solution.

Defer to your further research as to whether it is OK to fix it up or get a new one. It does look a bit worn out from my perspective, but if it holds you and it is leak free, might be worthwhile. My advice would be to stick close to shore though :)

What you have is a type of "touring" kayak, which will be fine for a local lake. If you're looking for something with a larger opening, get a recreational kayak instead. Types are reviewed here: https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/kayak.html

Definitely a good idea if you have a pool to watch some Youtube videos and try out techniques.

As for paddle, I can recommend https://www.rei.com/product/766595/bending-branches-whisper-paddle

For PFD (personal flotation device), I recommend https://www.amazon.com/MoveVent-Dynamic-Paddle-Sports-Orange/dp/B00FI3FAZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491528039&sr=8-1&keywords=onyx+life+jacket

Also, you'll need to think about how to transport it. For instance, last year I owned a recreational kayak, and had it on the roof of my car using the following:

foam to protect the car and on which to place the kayak: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks
straps secured over the sides and tied through my car windows: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft
tie-downs for the front and back, and secure it to a metal non-moving piece of the car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you have an easy way to transport it? If not, a decent inflatable kayak might be a good choice. I recently picked this up for cheap and am enjoying it

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A7EXF4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_2?qid=1463769387&sr=8-2-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=intex+inflwtable+kayak

That's on the cheap side, but for calm stuff it's fine, pretty comfortable actually. As for a life jacket, I would recommend the NRS brand, not too expensive but pretty well made.

Any of the rivers in N. FL. Suwanne(and feeding creeks)(best site is overlooking the big shoals), Okefenokee(all are good), Cumberland(brickhill Bluff), St. marys(at the horseshoe) can be fun in high water. PM if you want any more details. I realize this is 2 months late.

Edit: I spent 3 years in N.FL paddling every weekend. It has some of the best flat water spots. I STRONGLY recommend this book. It doesn't have everything but its a great jumping off point and will ensure that you get the right spots for what you want. WELL WORTH THE MONEY.

http://www.amazon.com/Canoeing-Kayaking-Florida-Canoe-Kayak/dp/0897329554/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1458152013&sr=1-1&keywords=paddling+florida

Gonna go ahead and recommend a much cheaper option- the Intex Challenger K1. It's a surprisingly great little inflatable and packs up pretty well, with a $70 price tag to boot. I used mine for two summers on some calm lakes and rivers and never had an issue with leaking. In my opinion, definitely the best budget option for someone just tipping their toes in kayaking.

roof rack. the roof rack (or rails) runs front to back, cross bars run across. neither Yakima or Thule make a roof rack for your car, so you're going to be stuck with a generic rack. Maybe something like this or this.

Ideally, you get a roof rack and cross bars. Canoes don't use J-racks. You could just use foam blocks and ratchet straps, but it's sketchy if you're going too fast or far. I've made 400 mile trips using foam blocks, but you got to be sure and tie it down well and use bow and stern lines.

Here's a great expanation of how to tie it down. It's worth buying the hood tie down things, $7 on Amazon.

17' canoe is heavy unless it's composite. there's some videos of best ways to load them solo.

I just got one of the inflatable ones and freaking love it. The single has 2 chambers and the double has 3. It's pretty tough stuff and as a complete newb, I felt really safe and stable.

Basically, how bad do you want to get on the water?
How much to rent a handful of times vs $60 for a single or $75 for a double. Both with really high reviews.

I love the double because I can just lean back and relax. I'm in Buffalo NY and went down the river and got to the edge of the lake. It got really choppy and I felt exttemely stable and safe.

My friend and I are planning on taking them to Allegheney and kayaking into where we want to camp. 400 lb limit on the double. The two of us went out on it when I first got it, for a total of about 475 lbs and we were able to slowly move along but felt completely safe. It convinced him to by both the single and double.

Single: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00177J4JS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_IrXpDbJNZC8HY

Double: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00A7EXF4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_UvXpDbA602H04

Guy who went on class 3/4 whitewater on the double: https://youtu.be/hgWQ0RJKBMU

I had bought specific kayaking ones, but these I found on ebay and are so comfortable. Plus it was like 10 bucks or something. I can find the link to the item if people are interested.

Edit: I couldn't find the same product, but this one has a similar cut and shape http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Swimming-Life-Jacket-Boating-Kayaking-Surfing-SUP-Buoyancy-Aid-Fishing-Vest-/322494891715?hash=item4b163186c3

Alternatively, I also bought this one I bought one. Almost as comfortable but the back was too high so I would end up leaning and sitting too far back. These fit the kids perfectly though https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00FI3FAZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And since we're talking about PFDs, this is the one I use for the sausage puppy https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GPOUOZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I highly recommend reading A Trailside's Guide to Kayaking. I'm also more of a calm water, lake/river kayaker and this book gives great insight into the world of kayaking. The author has a great narrative and the book is color with images and anecdotes to help understand certain concepts.

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Explorer-2-Person-Inflatable-Aluminum/dp/B00A7EXF4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=intex+explorer+k2+kayak&qid=1563481144&s=gateway&sr=8-3

It's super cheap! And you're welcome. I hope you have fun :)

Getting a cheap rack is the hard part. I'm not sure what's available for the Accord, but you might even want to check with your dealer. My Mazda 3 offered a Mazda-branded Yakima Whispbar, which was already slightly cheaper from Mazda than it was from Yakima. But by getting the Mazda part number and searching online, I found it for about half price, I think around $250.

Once you've figured out a rack, the cradles are easy. I don't know how the big brands get away with the prices they ask. I've had this set for two years now, and they're holding up great. And yes, that's $50 for 4 J-cradles, sufficient to carry two boats. The mounting system will work with either round or aero bars and seems very sturdy.

Intex Challenger K1 Kayak, 1-Person Inflatable Kayak Set with Aluminum Oars and High Output Air Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00177J4JS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LzfCCbW1CV1NC

Intex Explorer K2 Kayak, 2-Person Inflatable Kayak Set with Aluminum Oars and High Output Air Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7EXF4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aAfCCbSVPR0PS


I own both and can attest that they are perfect for calm water with light breeze. The pump they come with inflate the kayak in under 10 minutes. They weigh about 15-20 lbs each.

The explorer k2 handles more like a canoe.

Happy paddling!

Most inflatable kayaks are either kids toys or pretty much expensive and heavy.

but.

I was on a local lake a few weeks ago and saw a group paddling a couple of inflatables along with a rec boat. We chatted. These boats are packable, come in a bag with pump, skeg, paddle, seat and boat for $90 CAN. Must be less in the US.

Here it is in Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/Intex-Challenger-1-Person-Inflatable-Aluminum/dp/B00177J4JS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=PRUQD6QUCIT8&keywords=intex+inflatable+kayak&qid=1567993823&s=gateway&sprefix=Intex+inflatable+kayaks%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-3

The girls said these were the most comfortable things like evar, they felt safe on the lake and they certainly had no trouble scooting along...it didn't seem like they were working hard to get anywhere like in those inflatable raft things.

nice job


you really need bow lines to be safe. a couple of these and a rope is all you need to highly reduce the risk of losing your boat or hurting/killing someone.

enjoy your new boat and the fun and freedom it will bring you!

I have a 2003 4runner so its slightly bigger than your 3rd gen. My wife and I each have 10' entry level sit in rec kayaks. I successfully mount and carry both on the factory roof rack with 2 pairs of cheap Amazon J hooks. I can lift and mount the kayaks solo but its much easy with two people. I put 2 ratcheting tie straps over the kayaks securing them to the cross bars and side rails (not the J hooks). I use a bow and stern lines attached to the front recovery loops and rear hitch. It works well. If I were doing longer distance driving (200+ miles) with the kayaks I would probably get some higher grade J Hooks.

Here is the 2 Pairs of J Hooks (thats 4 total) for about $60.
Link

I bought an aftermarker set of cross rail for my wife's Odyessy and another set of J Hooks. I mount and carry them the same way. The van is newer and and cleaners so we only use it for the drop off vehicle. Here is the after market cross rails (that also fit my 4runner) Link

Look for a local outfitter, the family owned and ran type store. I have always had the best luck with them, and the customer service is untouchable. They go that extra mile to make sure you return.

​

I had an older Jeep but it did just fine ..I got some rack pads and tied it down bow and stern as well as side to side.....these work really well for the front of the car.

Keep seeing posts looking for mount options on small cars. Your car probably has tow sockets front and rear + one loop for either. These handle thousands of pounds and you probably have the first one in your jack kit already. Just get a second factory tow loop off eBay for the pair.

Remove the covers and screw in the anchors. Then run straps front and rear plus through the side windows. Ratchet straps are best. Tighten all 3-4 straps until you can’t wiggle the boat with good force.

Photo shows a triangular strap setup since our factory mounts are off center. Third strap goes through the opposite window and to a grab handle. Protect hood paint with a soft cloth. Also shown are purpose bought foam supports front and rear. Complete setup is stable at highway speeds.

LINKS

Foam Kayak Blocks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCLL4LA/


Straps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7P7EOX/


Flag

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F4RX3AM/

Anchors - eBay search: make + model + some of tow hook towing eye loop bracket ring

I highly recommend the very cheap kind that just straps to your roof. 30 seconds to put on, 30 seconds to take off. I have been using this one, and I'm super happy with it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015D19SS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I transport 2 17 foot yaks on the roof of my pickup truck in conjunction with one of these at roof level coming from the rear tow hitch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDL2DX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> but I don't want to have to tie down the front (like you have on your fenders) or the rears,

It's actually under the hood and under the trunk. There is nowhere on the frame of my wife's car to attach something. To be honest, it didn't feel necessary to do the front and back because the mount held it in place very well. But, I feel like it's a backup in case the mount comes off the rack itself.

There is a way (though not so easy) to haul kayaks on your JK - to address some of your concerns:

For easy bow line connection point - this might work
They mount under the hood and flip under the hood when not in use...

For the kayak/canoe to be on the roof - I've seen a configuration where:
There was a square tube mount that mounted directly the the sides of the windshield and the rear set of cross bars was actually a T rack that was mounted on the hitch...the windshield mount looked something like this, but I recall it bolted directly to the sides of the windshield in the factory holes...thinking more about it, I don't think it was a JK. The rear looked like this

As for seats soaking up mud...Its a Jeep! ;-)....maybe consider neoprene seat covers?

Books:
Sea Kayaking Illustrated: A Visual Guide to Better Paddling

Sea Kayak: A Manual for Intermediate and Advanced Sea Kayakers

Sea Kayak Rescue: The Definitive Guide To Modern Reentry And Recovery Techniques

Fundamentals of Kayak Navigation

Other tips:

a) Join a club if there is one near you.
or: Join groups with the same interest near you
Generally the quickest way to learn. Ask in forums as well.

b) You already mentioned courses. Def. do them. This is the best way to improve your technique.

c) Practise. Practise. Just paddle around, sometimes test and extend your limits in safe conditions (example: Go out in windy to stormy weather with waves [<7bft, on really big lakes <6bft] with onshore wind on a bigger lake you know well. Keep near the shore, learn how to paddle in waves. Paddle parallel to waves. Just get experience. If you fall in, worst case the wind will blow you onto the shore soon(ish). Know your equipment, always wear a PFD, have apaddlefloat, pump, reserve paddle & paddle leash, comms device and ideally a buddy. Train rescue & reentry first. Tell people where you are and when to expect you back)

d) Read a few blogs from people who did long runs on rivers and oceans. Even if they've used an open canoe, you can still learn a lot (equipment, conditions, duration and so on)

e) Maybe some youtube videos, but thats - in my experience - a bad source for kayaking. Lots of people who don't know what they are doing but think they are professionals.


For the multi-month solo trip: Your space is very limited in a kayak. It will be hard to get enough food for longer trips. For long tours a canoe is way better, although not really seaworthy. Don't go alone.

I have a Chevy Cruze and an 11 foot kayak, what I do is first unscrew the antenna at the center of the roof. Most cars this can just screw and unscrew no problem.

I have 2 foam blocks like this Centering it as best I can. I try to put them right before the windshield and rear window, the area with the most support. When I load my kayak there is a small part that actually touches the roof so I just put an old towel under it to prevent scratching. The towel is pinned by the kayak and not going anywhere.

Next I put these things under the trunk and hood so I can use a rope to tie down the front and back. I have tried running this system without tying down the front and back and I would not feel comfortable driving more than a couple miles going <30 MPH.

Now I use straps like this and open all my doors and loop it over the kayak and through my car. Again trying to stay close to the front for more strength.

Then I just tighten the front and back ropes to make sure its not going to move left to right, and double check the straps across the kayak.

It seems like a lot but the whole process of loading and tying down takes maybe 10 minutes and that's alone. Quick drive around the block to make sure its good and I'm okay with driving for a couple hours before I want to check it.

This system has worked well for me and the only damage to my car has been the straps will move around a little near the door and leave marks but those are easily buffed out.

Last year I owned a recreational kayak, and had it on the roof of my car using the following:

foam to protect the car and on which to place the kayak: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks straps secured over the sides and tied through my car windows: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft tie-downs for the front and back, and secure it to a metal non-moving piece of the car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note that with the straps, you'll want to twist them so that they don't make an awful buzzing sound!

2 door or 4 door? I just ordered this for my 4 door accord after seeing one out in the wild the other day. It is pretty well reviewed and only $90.

I like that it spreads a bit wider where it goes through the door frame than the foam block kits do, people say that it is easier on the door gaskets and what not. It also has D Rings build into the top of it so that you can fasten the kayak without having to run additional straps through the doors. I plan to run fore and aft lines though.

Have you considered foam racks? Copy and paste from my post earlier:

I have a 2000 civic hatchback DX so we basically have the same car but my car has a bigger butt. I bought this 25$ foam kit off amazon and it works fine. I also got these hooks and installed them on the radiator bolts and carry the kayak in the center of the roof. Two straps that came with the foam kit across the kayak and through the door shutting both doors on the straps, one more like it from tail of kayak to tow hook in the back, and one of the ropes off the nose like a V attaching to these two hooks on the front of the car. If you want to go more expensive there is this 90$ inflatable roof rack. I went with the cheaper route because I usually have a truck but the few times I don't I want to be able to still go out. I've yet to have an issue with the foam blocks. They work really well.

Edit, I also have a moonroof installed on my car. Tightened down tighter then it probably needs to be, the kayak almost touches the moonroof.

They also make wider ones for non V shaped kayaks also.

This is always my suggestion for anyone asking the best way to have removable but effective tie down points.

Use these underneath the hood and hatch for quick non permanent tie down points. Sherpak 078115 Quick Loops (Pair) , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JDZIBb99AK3JQ

And these so you don't have to worry about dealing with knots. Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IFZIBbHAJX6WB

What kind of kayak are you thinking of getting?

If it can fit inside your vehicle without impeding your driving then that is probably fine, if you have to force it to make it fit then it's probably less fine.

If you have a hard-top on your jeep then there's also the option of using foam blocks (something like https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-11438-7-Kayak-Car-Top-Carrier/dp/B003EET2OE/) instead of a full set of cross bars. You should be able to find them at just about any store that sells kayak stuff. They're a little less convenient then a set of cross bars but they work well enough if you're careful and they're cheap.

If you have a $500 budget, you might want to go ahead and get a roof rack. Then you can get a couple of J racks. The bars might come in hand for other stuff (car top carrier, skis, etc) as well.

They sell these kayak mounting kits Here

I used one of these on a 13.5' Feelfree Lure on top of a '08 Pontiac Grand Prix for two seasons without much issue. The advice I would have is if you want make sure you don't scratch anything, put a blanket down while getting everything in place.

I was thinking of doing the pool noodles but went with https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003EET2OE/ref=ya_st_dp_summary instead.

Hoping it works well.

These have been awesome for me so far. It's ridiculous how useful something so simple can be.

Edit: Actually the pictures down show how these work. Here's a video that explains it better.

I have one about half way up on each side of the hood of my car (I have convenient bolts there) - I find that two tie downs at the front make it easier to see if anything is moving above my head as well as being more stable. I had an accident last year involving a failed rack and a 15 ft long yak, so I take the kind of care that someone who learned a lesson takes.

There's something called a Malone Handirack which is an inflatable roof rack. I use it on my '01 Honda Civic to carry two stackable 12' Ocean Kayak Scrambler XTs. Picture Here. It's about $75-90 on Amazon and they work awesome. Video of me going 70mph on the highway with it.

I have the same bars and the WB400 carriers for my Mazda. Great hardware. Unfortunately Yakima bought them for their patents and discontinued the whole line.

On the bow and stern lines - I usually run a bow line only. No good place to attach the stern line on my car without significant inconvenience.

I have these little straps I close in my hood I can hook the bow line to that might work for you - just close it in the frunk. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CRBXQUK/

Thanks for the bit of kayak info, I really don't know much about them at this point. I'm hoping you notice my future thread I'll post about buying a kayak, if I need to post after doing my research.

I consider the $200 for the trailer to be paid for already, because I'll use this trailer for other things. So adding in two pair of these racks and setting them up similar to this trailer won't cost me much at all (thanks /u/chancrescolex).

On my old car I used tow hooks. On my current vehicle, I use the tow hitch in back and there is a part of the grill I can loop around that includes the frame. I would not suggest just a piece of the body, definitely go for the frame where ever you can get to it.

Hood loops are a good and inexpensive option for the front. Use a bolt inside the hood then just pull them out or tuck them in when using or not.

I'm going to pick this up on Sunday to transport my new boat on my little Honda fit. Should work for you as well, and a little more comforting than a pool noodle rig in my opinion.

The straps are good, here is another option as well. I dont like the straps in my line of site when driving so I use the back doors and it works fine.

I got this. I'm a beginner and it looks like a nice, inexpensive way to get into kayaking.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00177J4JS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480291198&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Intex

Yes as long as your ropes and straps are tied off correctly. I recommend these straps in con junction with that kit.

Built U.S.A. Sherpak Hood Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oRUMzbPXKMCJD

This kit worked great for me

I bought a Thule and couldn't be happier with it. Buy [these] (https://www.amazon.com/TMS-J-Bar-Carrier-Mounted-Crossbar/dp/B003V57NUQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468343275&sr=8-2&keywords=kayak+rack&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011) attachments to mount your kayak to the rack as the Thule ones are pricy. Check craigslist often for attachments. I picked up two bike attachments for about the price of one.

Edit: Yakima's are on prime day.

Thats also a little bit of my concern.These were the ones I bought because I was being a little cheap after buying the kayaks and they had decent reviews. They seem pretty sturdy on the local roads that I've been on. I may have to be less cheap and go out and buy some more "premium" ones. I think I spent like 60 bucks for the two sets that I have so they probably aren't the best quality.

I use Malone J-cradles. They fit well on the Thule square bars.

http://www.amazon.com/Malone-Downloader-Folding-J-Style-Universal/dp/B004O990KO

Thanks for the pictures!

Is the cross bar necessary, or is that the bike carrier? Also, would these J hooks be able to clip onto the rack you have?

Thule 897XT Hullavator Kayak Roof Rack Mount Carrier. Used these for years.
https://www.amazon.com/Thule-897XT-Hullavator-Kayak-Carrier/dp/B000QV1WSM

Not cheap but you'll get your money's worth and never worry.

You're probably fine if everything is tight, but I picked up these a few weeks ago and they just give me a little extra security. I strap them to the tie down on the kayak with a bungee.

Shoreline Marine Propel hood... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRBXQUK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If i bought these for my car...... could i buy these to fit?

It was well worth the investment

Looks like this might be it: Intex Challenger K1 Kayak

Look into getting something like these and tie the knot around them instead.

There are plenty of other options out there too. Those were just a few I found with a quick google search. The downside to that last one is that those kayak racks can run around $100-$200 per set if you get a name brand. I have these though and they work just fine. You'd also need some welding experience and the right equipment.

If it were me, I think I would prefer not having the kayaks out towards the sides, just in case I got side-swiped or something. I like the variations that have the kayaks raised above the platform and then you have the whole bed for gear.

You can buy straps/loops that gun under your car hood and give you a tie point. Can reduce chance of paint running vs tying to something underneath the car.


Propel by Shoreline Marine Hood and Trunk Loop Kayak Tie Down Straps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRBXQUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o5QsDbBTMRC3S

Like the above. There's also kinds that you attach to a bolt/screw under the hood that may be an option. Those you just flip out from the hood when you need to use.

My husband and I have the Explorer (https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Explorer-2-Person-Inflatable-Aluminum/dp/B00A7EXF4C/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VAHEVHZJJYNQ2ZA0WTAC) for tandem and it is just the slowest, clumsiest, most comfortable boat. We call it the RaftYak. Tracks like hell without the skeg, but does alright with it.

Also I saw these two kayaks. [Kayak A] (https://www.amazon.com/Challenger-1-Person-Inflatable-Aluminum-Output/dp/B00177J4JS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491251606&sr=8-5&keywords=Kayak) [Kayak B] (https://www.amazon.com/Sevylor-Quikpak-K1-1-Person-Kayak/dp/B00EVII3BK/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1491251606&sr=8-15&keywords=Kayak). Tell me what you think of them.

Handirack

Have you seen the inflatable roof racks? This is how I would go.

https://www.amazon.com/Malone-HandiRack-Inflatable-Universal-Luggage/dp/B001F5AHKC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487767374&sr=8-1&keywords=handirack

We've been using this, it's nice because if you have 2 cars (one at pick up also without a roof rack) you can take this off pretty quickly, deflate it & store it in your kayak until you get to the pick up spot and throw it on the other car

Check these out for more tie-down points:

Sherpak Hood Loops

Hood/Trunk Tie down Loops

Also, as others have said, you should look into a roof rack with stacker bars.

Try this!

J hooks : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00873J0YY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Crossbars
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XD19K2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sub 150.00 I have this setup on my 535i

This is going to blow your mind.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRBXQUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven't used them personally but these.

I use these under my hood and in my back hatch: https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-078115-Quick-Loops-Pair/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486403622&sr=8-2&keywords=hood+loops

And I carry an 18-foot aluminum canoe on foam blocks just fine.

Frig been looking for a great inflatable kayak? Anyone have a good suggestion (links please) under 200$. Ive been on amazon for a while and have a few I like, but it’s hard to tell if it will be shit or not.

Leaning on this one: Intex Challenger K1 Kayak, 1-Person Inflatable Kayak Set with Aluminum Oars and High Output Air Pump https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00177J4JS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_whOTAbDGJMM64

No experience with it, but I saw this earlier: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F5AHKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7Q7iDb92GC2MN

I use these for bow and stern lines and I have two of these bolted down under the hood of my truck (one on each side) as you can see here. I just direct hook in the back of the truck bed.
Just remember that they are just there to hold the boat in place while braking or accelerating, they are also good for keeping the boat in place during wind. That being said, don't crank them down as you can damage the boat.

As far as dragging your boat I don't recommend dragging it more than you have to. I will drag mine up onto the beach or on grass a bit to move it but if I am transporting it more than a few feet I pick it up.

These work great, however they can damage your door seals, and your paint if not strapped down carefully.