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I'm don't run a larp, so full disclaimers apply, but here are my thoughts. As of right now, you've listed your only expense as the location. I would first add all other necessary expenses, such as website upkeep, so you don't think you have more money than you do. The next thing to do is to open a bank account for the larp. You may want to look online for high interest accounts, often found with online banks- that way, any money that's not immediately being used is making you more money (even if it's very little).

The second thing you want to do is consider what you have and what you need, and as for that, I have two suggestions: thrift stores and larp youtubers. Particularly LarpHouse, Tamwise Travels, and the Thrift Store Larper. LarHouse is chock full of useful information on everything, including a full video on her extensive larp makeup kit. You don't need all of the things on her list by any means, and what you will need depends heavily on what type of larp you are, but the basic Mehron Paradise Paint palette, brushes to apply it, alcohol to clean brushes between use, and Pros-Aide (medical grade adhesive) for prosthetics is probably a good start where makeup is concerned. (Those links are her affiliate links, by the way.) In terms of makeup though, never underestimate the value of good old fashioned regular makeup. Zabrena has done a few pool tests with normal, drugstore makeup- LA girls gel eyeliners, for example, are waterproof and can be used for facepaint. I've used black waterproof eyeliner to make paint on a mask to be Mrs. Incredible.

Tamwise has some great larp tutorials, and a very useful series of buying stuff from Wish, a very cheap online store. It has long delivery times, but sometimes the often enough the product is well worth it- like some uber-cool wax seals she got.

Thrift Store Larper is exactly what it sounds like, and she also has a blog with a couple of good articles. I've gotten tons of larp clothes from thrift store. Leather belts, purses that can be remade, leather or fur things that can be remade, fur vests, glass bottles and jars- the possibilities are endless. It can be a good way to find generic NPC clothes for relatively cheap and easy, and you can often also find lots of cloth, if you have people who can sew. One thing I will say is if you get things for eating that are pewter, make sure to test that there's no lead it in (since pre-1960 there could have been), and you can get tests on Amazon. 99 cents stores can also be your best friend for things like ribbon or fake flowers, which can be a godsend. This store also has some handy odds and ends for pretty cheap, like tiny glass bottles and pouches and such.

It's import to remember, however, that it's only worth spending money on things that will genuinely end up being useful- a really cool thrift store shirt that doesn't quite fit in is worthless, even if it's $20 cheaper than a larp-store bought shirt might be, and you've wasted your money.

You'll want to build up your supply slowly. Staple things, like the facepaint or several good quality makeup brushes, are worth purchasing right away, as are generic costume pieces that can be used over and over again. Remember to include accessories in the generic things you'll need like belts and jewlery. But otherwise, don't buy things until you need them. A cool but specific prosthetic for sale will still be for sale when you have actual use for it. If you think creating Important NPC X's costume will cost $100, budget for at least $125- that means that no one else is spending that 25, even though you don't think you'll need it.

Since you seem to be an American larp, the other thing asides from makeup I'd say is worth splurging on is weapons- if your staff has the time and skill to make them. Getting the supplies and following tutorials for generic larp-safe weapons- there are plenty out there, and they do not have to be expensive. If you allow for them, it may be worth it to occasionally splurge on a latex weapon to be added to your arsenol.

Other general considerations- put in the budget enough to account for staff expenses, such as gas when going shopping for the larp, or the occasional pizza. Your writers should consider budget all the time, but as you build up your supplies of generic stuff, this will hopefully leave time for you to be able to spend a bit more money on the details.

I think that's I can think of this second what, but it mostly comes down to is be frugal and check youtube for a better way, always.

You will never have the perfect garb at your first event, but you can have some pretty cool garb.

I recommend contacts, black out contacts if you can afford them. They can give you some big wow points

Practice makeup the weeks before. A lot of the characters personality will come from the face. YouTube tutorials. I liked this one: https://youtu.be/Xzm9nzAQe4U, but if it's an outdoor or combat larp it may not be appropriate.

Next I will recommend a corset. Corsets are easy to buy, comfortable, and sexy as hell no matter your shape. Here's an example of what I would look into getting: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESYASXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k-xJxb81BDKWY

Last depends on the character's personality. You can either do a skirt or pants. I'd do a pair of pleather pants because that's the type of character I play. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U83KYIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uiyJxbMK49XWC

Something else you could look into is hair. I'd dye my hair black and spike it, but my hair is short. You could also look into getting a wig. Sometimes you can get the look you want without a wig which is what I'd recommend if you can. Long and straight is a classic, but high ponytail is dominatrixy.

Tit-bits here and there can really make a character shine. Pop into your local thrift store to check out belts, jewelry, and non costume props like a goblet or black leather boots.

Head jewelry is a must for any princess. Something like this maybe: https://www.etsy.com/listing/202284704/gold-headdress-gold-head-chain-boho

Add some sculpy horns. There are so many tutorials on this. If you're budget is a little more fluffy buy some horns like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JH8T9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0uyJxb2CTFW3A I'd spray paint them to look like bone and reenforce the horns with clips and better elastic for active wear.

Fangs might be a good idea too. I normally use scarecrow brand for those. They're inexpensive and look good. It's a good bang for your buck

Really what it comes down to is the characters purpose and personality. I'd do a combat succubus because that's what I would enjoy playing (lust and wrath are easy for me). You could also do an extremely useful vain daemon and be painfully georgeous, you could never do combat and get away with a lot better costuming. I don't know what your budget is either. I normally drop $100 on any character I start, but you could be rich. I don't know.

The costume is literally chainmail and a sword, and you're response was "it looks weird" to both. Jesus Christ.


I believe his chainmail might be aluminum. I'm assuming this is his first character and LARP is expensive to get into.


- As for actual commentary: You're off to a good start. You've got a foundation for a good outfit and you'll build over time.

To make things look more interesting consider the following for future additions to your outfit:

1. A good leather belt with a pouch or two on it. (Often useful for holding Larp items. But also looks good)
   
   
2. Gloves - Not for everyone, but they add a nice look and protect your fingers)
   
   
3. Layers - Layers make everything look a little better, and some fabric like a tunic or shoulder cape over your chainmail is a great accessory but also looks good flowing in the wind when you're fighting.
   
   https://www.epicarmouryunlimited.com/en/larp-hoods/4911-basic-black-hood.html
   
   https://www.epicarmouryunlimited.com/en/larp-tabard/5923-basic-tabard-blue-and-offwhite.html
   
   
4. To the socially awko taco's point above. Your sword currently looks a little bland in comparison to the rest of you. Consider adding some paint for effect and then resealing it so the paint doesn't chip and break. Look into how to do this properly before attempting it. Still looks better than a stupid boffer, so props to you for starting there.
   
   
5. I can't see your feet but a good pair of boots always make a difference. If you can't find or afford boots right now consider some gaiters over a pair of waterproof boots like the following: (I use rubber boots that look leather because rain is not unusual where I larp. wouldn't recommend them for warmer climates.)
   https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004SL7ZSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
   https://www.epicarmouryunlimited.com/en/leather-larp-boots/6593-pirate-gaiters.html
   
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6. Colour - You're fairly black and metal which is fine, but an accent colour can really make you stand out!
   
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   Hopefully this response was helpful.

Honestly, this is something that really doesn't have an answer unless you start getting into mass-produced apparel.

Sizing shoes in general is really difficult to do because of how different our feet are. My experience with small batch leather boots for an outfit of around 250 fighters all using the same kind yielded very different results; some needed the extra half size up and some didn't and claimed the fit was already on the snug side. Others said they were far too loose.

I don't know what you're leatherworking experience is like, but boots are the hardest things to make by a substantial margin. Unless you're a professional cobbler, odds are you're going to get some things wrong on the first few attempts regardless. Even if using a template, all templates vary in how much spare room there might be inside the shoe.

My feet are personally quite flat in the sense that arch to ankle is only around 2.5 inches, so I'd probably be able to get away with it without changing the size.

I guess the best I can offer if you're going to make them is to make them at-size and buy some insoles that can be cut and see. What matters absolutely most in a pair of boots is good ankle support so your choice of pattern and leather thickness matters a lot here as well.

If you're not a cobbler or using a pattern I'd recommend staying away from making leather boots unless you have the money to burn doing it as a learning experience rather than expecting a final product to come out well on the first attempt. There's a reason most shops stay away from footwear, and those that do it don't do much else.

Generally, it's just best to buy something and layer over it. A number of fighters I know, including myself, use these and just cut the fringe off and they look great (wax is recommended). They've lasted me over a year and show very little signs of wear and tear, and the soles are only sketchy on very wet days:

https://www.amazon.com/Minnetonka-Front-Lace-Knee-Boot/dp/B0009IY8AQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525231276&sr=8-3&keywords=minnetonka+moccasin+boots+men

To clarify, what I'm looking for is 1/4 or 3/8th ID foam (that is to say, fitting a tube that size/the inner hole) with a 5/8ths wall. I get very close to that on Amazon, with a 1/2 ID hole, 5/8ths wall:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BVS1E0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
( Thermwell Products P10 Foam Insulation, 3-Feet, 4-Pack)


For cores, it's fiberglass wound .414, which I pick up locally from B3 (their site has it:
https://www.b3is.com/shop/Fibreglass-wound-Ultralight-Weapon-Cores-p81955553 )


At one point, I ordered a box of 1/4 ID with 3/4 in sidewall, but it's too thick at this point (we have gone super light).


I checked out Forge Foam, but it's definitely too thick. The foam that B3 sells is great and super durable, but too heavy for our needs. A couple ounces winds up being night-and-day between the weapons we use and the stock stuff we have around for NPCs to use. The stuff that winds up the *absolute* lightest are the .414 core with kite-tape covers (however, for ease, the very-well-fit nylon covers that B3 sells on their flat blades are almost as light. I live local to them, so I just pick up a handful when I buy cores).


For handles, we put on either 1/2 CPVC (can't get in Massachusetts, but ol NH has it at Home Depot), or junior golf-club handles from Golfers Galaxy (they have kits, or, for $3, will put one on for you).

Hello everyone! I started a business to create these Spellbooks and just got a new lot finished and ready to go! They're perfect for holding spell/ability cards for DND so that you feel more immersed in the game when you play your Bard or Wizard.

It also works great for LARPing when players who like to create their own reference cards need to keep them safe and organized on those long weekends with the guild.

Whatever roleplay style you prefer, make sure your spellcaster never leaves home without a Spellbook!


https://www.amazon.com/SPELLBOOK-Red-Dragon-Guile-Design/dp/B07L4714HW?th=1&psc=1

Well, loose fitting pants works this character, so i'd recommend thai fisherman pants. Loose to kind of convey that messy practice. Affordable so you can get different pairs in varying color schemes as well.

A long hooded blouse might be good, like this one. Sort of form fitting to make it easier to grab things on the ground without getting caught on brambles too much, but stylish enough, also available in several color schemes.

A good sash to help keep it together would be good, with a leather belt and pouches or a good small satchel on top of that.

Sorry if it isn't to your liking, I was just kind of spitballing ideas and themes that were more affordable. If money is not an issue you can certainly go pricier.

I think it would be a really good idea to choose sides in advance, if only to allow the folks who really want to do their own costuming the time to do the job well. A couple weeks minimum, a month would be better.

Another possibility would be to have a costume workshop day some time before the event. This could give some of the people who may not have the experience or comfort with costuming resources and support to get started.

Finally, I highly recommend Star Wars Costumes by Brandon Alinger. This work contains many many close up, detailed images of costumes and props used throughout the original trilogy. I've found it to be incredibly valuable in helping me figure out what makes the look of Star Wars costumes unique.

Good luck!

Camo paint sticks would be easy to use and sotore. You could wrap the containter with fabric, string, or just paint it to make it look less modern.

OR you could get a pot of facepaint and scrape it out of the pot and into whatever IC friendly containter you want (or again just paint the container so it looks less modern. Most facepaint require water to activate them but that shouldn't be an issue since you should have access to water. And you can easily apply with fingers. When I was a facepainter I liked Fab and Paradise products.

Highly recommend this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Shimmer-Glitter-Beverage-Cocktails-Sprinkler/dp/B07JVRG1LD/ref=asc_df_B07JVRG1LD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312155073561&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9323284934658194070&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029015&hvtargid=pla-648492963517&psc=1

It's a powder that makes any beverage look all shimmery and cool.

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Also! Consider actually making stuff!

Soap: https://wellnessmama.com/462/homemade-laundry-detergent/

Lotion: https://wellnessmama.com/3765/homemade-lotion-recipe/

Lotion part two: https://abraskitchen.com/large-batch-diy-whipped-lavender-lotion-with-coconut-oil/

Bath bombs: https://inspiredbycharm.com/diy-bath-bombs/

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One downside here is that it'll just sort of look like you're adding a multitude of white powders and clear or white oils together until you add the dyes. And these will require a little extra start up capitol, and the procurement of a few more jars, but I think it's fun to actually end up with something after all of your "hard" "work" in game.

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https://youtu.be/l5kNnwinOEY

Here is a light weight build for pretty cheap. It's amtgard legal. Too light and too fragile for Dag/Bel but you can use different materials and similar methods to make a heavier more durable sword. To be fair it's a bat rather than a sword.

https://youtu.be/d9wd1OJuWlQ

Here is a method for making flatblade. Use Dap (Dap 00272 Weldwood The Original Contact Cement 1-Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00106ETT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0BvQzbZDXMYKW) instead of gorillia glue. Also don't put a penny on the end if you plan on taking the weapon to Amtgard (also make sure you read the rulebook if you want to make it amt legal). The blue foam is found at walmart. Ozark Trail camp pad.

If you are on a budget, am buying for a 1 person tent, want something canvas in neutral colors that can be dyed with a little bit of work or dressed up easy, then I personally would investigate the Milsurp market for tent systems starting with the USGI shelter half (AKA pup tent). If you like the 5M Belle shape, then perhaps look into the Polish Milsurp poncho shelter, as it's the same general shape and layout.

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Example, USGI Shelter Half

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Military-Half-Shelter-Tent/dp/B00262JH2C/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usgi+tent&qid=1561994873&s=gateway&sr=8-4

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Example, Polish Poncho Shelter

https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLISH-MILITARY-PONCHO-SHELTER-HALF-2-PACK-/233173874942

I just started using This stuff for a local game here in Atlanta, and it worked pretty well.

wouldn't it just be safer to spray paint one of these? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nerf-B9093EU40-Zombie-Outbreaker-Blaster/dp/B01NA9IXEX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=nerf+crossbow&qid=1555867574&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Sure thing. So first thing I did was go outside and find some Rocks. Probably the hardest part. Had to find one with a flat bottom that I liked. I then make a mold out of it using Silicon Smooth-on stuff.


After I had the mold I built the harness which is just the Flickering LED attached to a CR2032 Holder, a 150 resistor, and a Switch. Ill update the imgur album with pics of the process when im not making50 more of these.

After building the harness I mixed the resin One I used with some dye and poured it in. then I built a little holder to hold the harness just out of the resin and let it dry for 8 hours. Then bam 1 soul stone is made. You should have enough mold to make about 5 molds of different stones pending on size. Let me know if you have any other questions.

There's also this stuff, which I've heard good things about.