Best products from r/LandCruisers

Sounds like my fan bearing did when it was failing on my 2000 lx, almost had an exhaust-y sound from the drivers seat. The bearing is built into the fan bracket. Not too expensive of a part($100ish on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031GCUEY), but a pain to remove. For the fan bracket to clear when pulling it out, you have to rotate the a/c compressor out of the way just a bit which requires loosening a bolt you can’t see under the manifold. Additionally, the nuts holding the fan onto the pulley/bracket are pretty soft. I rounded one off and replaced them with stainless when I put it back together. Here’s a pretty good video on the timing belt maintenance that shows the fan bracket removal: https://youtube.com/watch?v=4dO8KW1-NQs&t=11m55s

Edit: bolts to nuts

Okay so you're looking for a seatbelt that didn't necessarily come with the 80 series but you want one that will work like a newer model car?

Sounds like you want an ALR type belt: http://www.cpsafety.com/articles/lockincss.aspx

They never really offered those types until 1996. (http://www.cpsboard.org/pdf/techmanual/StudentManual_R1010_Ch5.pdf) When it became mandatory for passenger seatbelts to have them, You could try going to a yard to find one just make sure the cruiser is like a 97, I cant really find anything that shows the seperation of seatbelts for purchase.

They make locking clips for seat belts that don't have a ratcheting feature, but keeps them tight. http://www.amazon.com/Metal-Seat-Belt-Locking-Clip/dp/B004XJ0EF0

Here is the list of all the stuff i got:

1. 1/0 welding wire - 50 ft (used ~44ft) from https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms::PA2
   
2. Swedge on tool for crimping the lugs on the wire from https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF6657706:OR:04040
   
3. 1 OT coppers lugs - 10 pc from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/copper-lug-ot-38-stud-tin-plated-p-197.html
   
4. Clamps - 6pc from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/rubber-coated-clamp-34-inch-p-643.html
   
5. Wire loom - 20 ft from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/wire-loom-black-nylon-12-inch-p-240.html
   
6. Heatshrink - 1 black from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/3m-shrink-tube-black-34-inch-p-216.html
   
7. Heatshrink - 2 red from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/3m-shrink-tube-red-34-inch-p-223.html
   
8. Cord grips - 3/4" trade size mcmaster.com part number 69915K56
   
9. Longer j-hooks for the house (2nd battery), the ones that came with slee were a bit short for my batter - mcmaster.com part number 98760A111
   
10. Mil spec battery terminal - 2 pc Positive - mcmaster.com part number 7738K1
    
11. Mil spec battery terminal - 1 pc Negative - mcmaster.com part number 7738K2
    
12. Blue seas ML ACR 7622
    
13. Blue seas circuit breaker - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P5UNNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    I think thats pretty much it, i will edit anything else if remember it.
    
    This all could be done in one day and you dont need a garage to do it.
    Good luck!
    

Here is the one I got, and I chose it because it is a 3 1/2” head on it. I just think the skinnier ones look a little cheap and this one is nice and beefy.

I did install it myself, it only took about an hour of actual work, and about an hour of just figuring it out since it does not come with instructions. If you have a sawzaw or skill saw you will be set. I had a lot of trouble getting the nuts on the back end (closest to the cabin) so I just did the front 4 and the connector for the neck of the snorkel. It seems super stable even though I omitted 3nuts on it. I feel like you might have better luck mapping it out and cutting the holes on the body panel then taking the panel off to finish the install so you can get all the nuts on securely.

My rig is a heap of rust so I don’t really worry about the specifics a whole lot. I’m changing everything over to a cleaner parts rig next year anywho, and I’ll probably pull the body panel then to make it perfect.

I've had success UV dye:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Fuel-Systems-ounce/dp/B002M4G24U/

Here's some cheap blacklights:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Detection-Glasses-438/dp/B003JOB594/

https://smile.amazon.com/POCKETMAN-UV-Ultraviolet-Blacklights-Flashlight-Detecting/dp/B01FS64GNC/

That being said, ih8mud is a much better place for these questions. It's much more active.

I love seeing the GXs out there.

Pick up a set of these to make leveling SO much easier. Most smartphones have a level on them too...

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1537759070&sr=1-4&keywords=rv+leveling+blocks&dpID=51jMjecwppL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Steam Cleaner link

It’s ok I would recommend a bigger one if you have the money!

Beyond beautiful.

I'll just leave this here for you guys:

https://www.amazon.com/1988-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Outback/dp/B00GIMVKIU

I think you're definitely on the right track here!

To really verify your theory, you would need to check the pressure on the output end of the fuel filter when it's cold. Long term, you will need to drain and refill the tank.

Have you tried starting up in those temps when you have a full tank of gas? Depending on how much water there is, dilution might be enough to get you going.

When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter? There might be debris caught in the filter that is making the problem worse. You might also consider lightly smacking the filter with a hammer just in case the Arthur Fonzarelli approach will be effective.

Something else to consider is adding a fuel de-icer product. I don't have any personal experience with Heet, but it sounds like it's a common additive for 60 series rigs in the winter.

I got a ball mount from amazon, and two sided taped it to my ashtray (94 FZJ80). Very solid and the ball is fairly universal.

Ball - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T0EK64/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (cheaper available, bought in 2011)

Cell holder - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X1E5GS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (again YMMV purchased in 2015)

they both still work

My rack came off fine but my rig was garaged kept before me and completely rust free. Some people run into problems. There weren't any nuts below.

Heres exactly what I used based off this thread:https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/factory-rack-removal-options.609224/


Bolts (8x):https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6677

Washers (8x):https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=2938

Thread Sealant:https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37396-Thread-Sealant-50-Mililiter/dp/B0002KKTGS

It just rained and so far so good. I'm gonna paint over the oval area where the rack sat with something here soon.

I sell booze, life (1 day) has been amazing. I sell booze and transferred within my company. Cost of living is high, but if you live simply, you can make it work.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CUFR7EK

For anyone curious, it's these items:

Tent: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NA6NXB3/

Canopy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKYSCOM/

Thank you. That is a Dashmat from amazon. The paint is a Lexus color 1C6 Graphite Grey Metallic. It's just the paint, no waxing. It still has a few rough spots.

Buy a seat belt locking clip for each of your car seats. I have an '89 FJ62 - same belts as you in the rear and I have two in car seats. These clips are designed to pinch the seat belt near the buckle and force the buckle to hold fast. In the event of an accident the normal locking mechanism in the belt will engage and, together with the locking clip, hold the car seat fast.

http://www.amazon.com/Metal-Seat-Belt-Locking-Clip/dp/B004XJ0EF0