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I started out with dog collars so a few specific things you will want. If you don't want to buy a leather strap cutter, you can make due with a framing square, adjustable T square, or just a long ruler, its a measure 10x scenario but its not too bad. You will want a really sharp knife for cutting, I use my skiving knife because I can sharpen it, but I have used exacto knives and a rotary cutter and done a decent job with them.

You will want punches! Hole punches are obvious for the holes the buckle will use, but even the ends of the strap a punch can save you a lot of time and effort. Doing curved cuts is trickier than it seems and when there is a matching side to emphasize imperfections and stitching to further complicate things, being able to just use a punch and have it right the first time is fantastic.

As for hardware, get Welded D rings. They are a little more expensive but I'd rather not have a Dring bend and a dog get loose. Like $14 on amazon for 50 of them. I used these buckles was the cheapest I could find that style.

Pricking irons/Diamond Chisels are a must have, they just make the long runs on collars so much easier. That and a good thread and needles. I tried crap thread and tiger thread...I now buy only tiger thread. Its just so much easier to work with and looks a lot better.

here is one of the ones I did for my girlfriends dog
https://imgur.com/a/2y23Rdr


Post I made earlier for someone else, I would invest in:

• diamond awl like this
  
• diamond chisel(only really need the 2 prong and 5-6 prong) I use these
  
• good braided poly thread like this
  
• good needles John James
  
• Good skiving knife this ones a good starter
  
• Wing dividers I bought these
  
• Edge beveler Like this
  
• You'll also want a leather condition(neatsfoot oil is what I use) and a finisher(resolene, beeswax, snoseal, etc)
  
• Contact cement(Dap weldwood) helps keep things together before you sew them
  
• Dye if you want certain colors
  
  For ~$100 bucks investment and you've got most of the stuff you'll need to make good looking stuff, then you just need to buy leather. I highly recommend picking a project, watching some videos on it and then if you need a new tool for it thats when you buy it. My biggest mistake thus far is thinking I could bypass buying a hole punch, the quality using a punch is so much higher than trying to do it by hand.
  
  As for skills. Look up Saddle stitching, easy to learn and hard to master. With those chisels it makes it really easy to get a good looking product with saddle stitching. Wetforming leather, helps make those sheaths, holsters, etc pop out at you. I like watching Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson on youtube, informative and you pick up little tips here and there.
  
  You'll also need to learn to keep your knife sharp! So project 1 if you invest is make a strop and get some jewlers rouge to polish that edge to a razor! If you're REALLY in a pinch and have no leather you can use the rouge on cardboard but it does not hold up well.

you want something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Stainless-Steel-Chisel-Leather/dp/B00CBRMRNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451984817&sr=1-3&keywords=leather+tools

I just found a random one on amazon. You can get them from china for cheaper but will have to wait quite a while for delivery. That will punch the holes very nicely and the needle should go though without too much effort. It's best to have one with 2 prongs as well to go around corners. Tools are expensive but it really shows in the project. Take your time with the stitching. It's the greatest single way to improve the finished project for people getting into leather work IMO. In my experience there isn't a great way to finish the inside of leather. Most people use pigskin as a liner as far as I know. It is very thin. Either that or design the piece so that no part of the inside is visible. If you haven't checked out this guys youtube demos do it NOW. They are amazing and I use them all the time. Really nice work and great quality of videos too.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLkCG-505-1t0rYlgBTSnpQ

First I'll list what I bought and then I'll discuss what I have or what I'd have done differently.

Not listed are an xacto blade/utility knife, cork-backed ruler, and steel square. These were purchased at Harbor Freight.

Awl Haft

Diamond Awl Blade

The awl haft and diamond blade (E42) are great. I like the combo I bought. The handle has a chuck instead of some I saw which need the blade pressed in to the chuck.

Channel Groover

The channel groover I bought is nice. The chuck, similar to the awl haft, is very convenient for quick adjustments.

Overstitch Wheel

Doing it again, I probably would have bought some diamond chisels over the overstitch wheel, but so far it's worked alright. I will be buying the chisels eventually.

Edge Beveling Kit

I had no idea what edge beveler to buy with so many sizes and never having touched leather, so I'm really happy with the one I bought. It comes with 5 sizes.

Harness Needles

I bought 3 sizes of harness needles. Probably overkill but they were $3 a pack and I didn't know what size I needed. I've been using the medium ones and they are working well with the thread I got.

Cutting Mat

The cutting mat is nice. It's a bit thicker than the ones I found locally at Michaels.

Lacing Pony

The lacing pony is probably my biggest regret that I was forced to buy. I don't have access to any woodworking tools so I was stuck purchasing one. I should have had a coworker do it for me in his shop at 1/5 of the cost. It comes in two pieces and the holes in mine didn't line up at all. I ended up having to drill a hole for the screw.

Art of Hand Sewing

The book comes highly recommended from everyone. I've flipped through it but I learned my basic technique from youtube videos. As I try to do more I'm sure I'll reference it.

Thread

I bought .035" waxed cord from Maine Thread. I have nothing to compare it to but it seems to work okay.

Leather

And finally the leather. I'm still not sure if I made the right purchase, although buying a shoulder of leather seems to be a popular beginner suggestion. Already I'd like to have more variety, but I think I'm going to a Tandy Leather this weekend so maybe I'll pick up some other random stuff.

Things I didn't buy that I should have:

Contact Cement

Gum Trag

Burnishing Tool

Hammer/Maul

Leather finish


I actually made a decent stitch I was happy with on my second try. I didn't buy these items because I planned on doing lots of practice on scraps but because I feel good about my initial work I'd like to try to make something. Without those few items I'm kinda stuck for the moment.

In my experience, Tandy tools tend to be higher priced than a lot of USA-made tools, and are of lower quality. While that kit covers everything you would likely need, I think you would be better off searching eBay/Amazon/Springfield Leather for better tools.

For $600 you could build a set of tools tailored to your needs, and they'll last forever. I've had good luck with CS Osborne tools, and all three of the above listed retailers carry them. There are also vintage tools to be had on eBay that are works of art in their own right, and have many years of use left in them.

This is my favorite leatherworking book on leatherworking. This is an incredible book that will teach you the ins and outs of the finer side of leatherworking (stitching/dyeing/glueing/tools/techniques/etc). You may also want a book on leather armor or tooling (I don't tool leather so I don't have a recommendation).

Based on Tandy's picture, I see a lot of tools you may never need, so you might as well get the right tools for the money you spend.

I would start with finding the following tools:

-Diamond awl

-Scratch awl (for marking)

-Wing dividers (for marking stitch lines)

-Square

-Ruler

-Soft mallet (weighted)

-Sharpening stone

-Strop and stropping compound (for keeping knives and awls razor sharp)

-Natural Vegetable-tanned leather (3-4 oz or 4-5 oz for small items, 8-9 for belts/straps).

-Waxed thread (research the sizes to match the number of stitches per inch you plan to do).

-Rotary cutter

-Exacto knife/blades

-Contact cement

-Stitching clam

-Pricking iron (goodsjapan sells very affordable irons for making your holes, and they are of good quality)

-Fiebings dye

-Fiebings Tankote (finisher/sealer)

-Needles

This is a basic list of items you will need, but to be honest, you could make just about anything with the above tools. As for actually tooling designs into the leather, the list of tools grows longer (stamps/finishes).

On a sidenote, I would not buy my leather from Tandy. While they do have sales every so often, the sale price is still right about what you pay at a place like Springfield Leather or Maverick Leather. I have not dealt with Maverick, but I buy my leather almost exclusively from Springfield. I keep bringing them up because they are extremely helpful and accommodating, and you can purchase USA Hermann Oak tooling leather for a good deal less than from Tandy (who tend to sell imported leather at high prices, anyways).

I don't mean to keep bashing Tandy, but I have spent a good deal of time and money replacing their tools with USA/European/Japanese tools at a lower cost.


As you get back into leathercraft, you will find that as you hone your skills,the need for more specialized tools will arise. For now, focus on building a set of tools to get you going, and then move forward from there.

Good luck!

A belt is a great project for a beginner. In regards to your tool list I would swap out a few things.

Leather

If you are wanting a dress belt then I would go with a lighter weight of leather. I've got a belt on the bench right now using two layers of 4/5 oz leather. Personally I think that is a good for a casual belt.

What I do is cut the inside liner slightly wider than the actual belt. Then once it is glued I come back and trim it to match the outside.

Thread
That thread looks a little fine. It is recommend for 8 stitches per inch. I would suggest you start with 6 stitches per inch. Something like this would probably be more approiate.

Chisel
I personally don't use chisels for several reasons. First, good ones are expensive. I would rather spend my money on other tools. Secondly with a little practice a over stitch wheel and awl will give you great results. I also don't have to buy new chisels for different stitches per inch.

Awl
I have the awl set you linked to. I don't care for it at all. After a few projects I upgraded it. For a inexpensive awl I would reccomend this haft and this blade. The nice thing about that haft is that it has a flat sides. This allows you to always have the same angle when using the awl.

No matter what awl blade you get you will need to sharpen it. Nigel Armitage has a good video on how to do that.

Glue
Anything will work just fine. I worked in a saddle shop that used barges cement so that is what I use. That is mainly just habit. I've heard of people using wood glue before. As long as it holds while you do your sewing you are good.

The one thing you don't have on your list that I think every leatherworker should have is The Art of Hand Sewing Leather.

Looks pretty good. Always come in at least 3/16 of an inch from edge for stitching. Get yourself a stitching groover too. It cuts a groove in the leather both to help heep stitches straight, and so your thread doesn't sit proud if the leather. Especially for an item that will be in and out of your pocket. Get a set of diamond stitching chisels too to help you with spacing, and clean up your stitches. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1.CJDb1VV85PN
Other than that. I would personally do this with a thicker veg tan leather, obviously you have what you have. But thicker veg tan allows you to better finish the edges of the leather and use an edge coat to both make it pop, and to protect the edge of the leather which is what will surely start to wear first on this item. You dun good, though, just need to practice!

Double sided belts are usually just 2 pieces of leather, 8-9oz sewn back to back. Adding a third layer would add bulk, but almost no strength, and it might cause unsightly buckling as the outside leathers aren't as thick. If all you need is a belt, single thickness belts of 12oz+ would be much easier, and you can still opt to sew up the working end for some practice. Generally, it's advised to start with smaller projects like card holders, so you can get the practice and it's not a big deal if you screw up. Backed belts are hundreds of stitches, so unless you're really determined, it's not a starter project.

When it comes to stitching, Al Stohlman's Art of Hand Sewing Leather has all you need to know about western saddle stitch. No chisels, just 2 needles and an awl. You'll get decent results just fine with a bit of practice.

Other things you'll need:

• Diamond awl
  
• Groover
  
• Oversticher/ spacemarker
  
• Harness Needles
  
• Thread
  
• Beeswax
  
• Contact cement
  
  SLC has a decent starter kit, but other recommendations are out there too. For thread, I use Barbours Linen 6 Cord and wax it myself. You'll need a pony or sewing clam, but I made mine, so I can't help you there. I only use a punch when I'm hand sewing very thin or flimsy leathers.
  

I don't have a direct answer, but I would say that if you plan to stick with this hobby, I would suggest the cheaper option. Odds are that you are going to want to upgrade from either one. Diamond chisels aren't the greatest if you intend to go through anything above 8oz total. And they definitely leave a less appealing hole. Don't get me wrong, they work and get the job done for me most of the time.

I've got some Aiskaer diamond chisels. I am glad that I bought them (as the alternatives to what I want now would have prevented me from even trying the hobby) but I totally plan on replacing them if I can sell enough items at cost to justify not losing money on leather. The point being, I wouldn't suggest spending a lot of money there unless you truly think you will be satisfied with them.

The Seiwa irons are very nice, I use them and I like them, great value for the price. Bear in mind too that certain tools can be found elsewhere for non-"leather" specific use. I have this divider and it works great. As far as awls go, i recently upgraded to a Bob Douglas diamond awl and the difference is absolutely night and day, highly recommend it.

amazing work, would love to see the final full pic.
I feel like the build may have been easier if you used pricking irons rather than a hand sewing punch, it helps to keep even spacing and you can make a bunch of holes in one go. https://smile.amazon.com/CrazyEve-Leathercraft-Leather-Stitching-Perforate/dp/B00T17OULI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468779215&sr=8-1&keywords=pricking+iron

again, great work

One of my older comments about somem tools here: some links might be dead but you can search for a similar listing online

Chisels: Aiskaer White Steel 3mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits(3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549STU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CRaSBbK7CG7MJ

Burnisher: YazyCraft Multi-Size Wood Slicker Leather Leathercraft Solid Wood Round Burnishing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZAV998/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aSaSBbMVYTCE1

Exacto knife: X-ACTO #1 Knife, Z Series With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PSaSBbF4PTFBC

Edger: Kinee 7 in 1 Pro Stitching Groover and Creasing Edge Beveler,DIY Leathercraft Sets,sew & Crease Leather,Wood & Steel Hand Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F6WCBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GTaSBbESQHWPV

Glue:Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement, 4 oz - High Strength Bond for Leather Projects and More - Non-toxic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003W0GFTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-TaSBbWHMVA13

Thread: Rugjut 8 Roll 8 Colors 150D Leather Sewing Waxed Thread Cords,0.8mm,Each of 33 Yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN8JMQ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aVaSBbM0KJ3E7

Total: my math says around 35 +-3$ which is not bad considering you will definitely need these tools. And needles of course which can be which ever as long as they are dull and not too sharp pointed. I use John James needles in the smallest size but they have many sizes for larger projects as well!

Thanks for the tip!

Nobody seems to sell ones with 5 mm prong pitch, but I found them with 4 mm prong pitch.

http://www.amazon.com/CrazyEve-Leathercraft-Diamond-Stitching-Perforate/dp/B00T17OULI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449624835&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=diamond+chisel+prong+pitch+5mm

Better?

Also, i'm looking into ordering this leather. 4 oz thickness seems perfect for wallets, and its sort of like the natural veg tan people recommend, but horween and cheap ($5 per square foot, about $100 for a 20 sqft hide).

http://www.maverickleathercompany.com/horween/horween-seconds/tumbled-natural-essex-finished-flesh/

This set has the same specs (2 mm prong, 4 mm prong pitch), but looks sharper?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010WGFZB0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1OIS8P00XXPZL

I'd recommend an edge beveler. It's one of my most-used tools - http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Factory-Edge-Beveler/dp/B001QT4XA2/

I'll also recommend the Tandy Safety Skiver like others have said. - http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Safety-3001-00-Replacement-3002-00/dp/B00IVS667Y/

Edit: You might think about finishing supplies you will want as well. Dye, neatsfoot oil, and I also like the Aussie Leather Conditioner. If you will be dyeing, spend good money on lambswool applicators, they are worth the money. I recommend the standard Fiebing's alcohol based dye over all others.

I got you, man. And by "good" I'm just gonna be suggesting the next step up.

Amazon's Choice, Burning Hot deal
Its a basic, next-to-garbage example just like OPs is, but its an in-line cutter with bonus edge bevelers too. this is what I begrudgingly use, because its good enough.

I'd splurge and get this one just because it has a nicer handle and comes in decent packaging covered in japanese writing. but I won't, yet, because.. above, good enough.

I read The Art of Hand Stitching Leather and this saved me a ton of time. I built the horse mostly to the specifications in the book and it is really helpful. Hand stitching takes about a third of the time for me now. A good awl and good technique in punching the leather made a huge difference in the quality of my stitches as well.

Hey everyone, I just joined reddit to ask for some help and my last post got auto-modded.

I am going to my first Slipknot show in September and decided I would make a mask for the show. I bought a (very basic) tool kit from amazon (linked below) and some veg tan leather (2.0 mm). The photo shows my progress so far. I plan on gluing the same red material I used to make the logo on the cutouts around the eyes and was also considering doing a spiral stitch(?) around the entire edge of the mask.

I have absolutely zero experience with leather and am not really sure about what to do to really set it off. I am okay with it looking pretty rudimentary (it wouldnt be very "metal" if it was flawless), but any tips you guys might have would be greatly appreciated. Especially regarding finishing edges, any sort of carving or design tips, etc.

The most important part for me now is the strap system and how to put something somewhat comfortable onto it.

​

Here's the tool kit: https://www.amazon.com/Leather-SIMPZIA-Stitching-Groover-Beginner/dp/B06XDMB7H5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=leather+tools&qid=1565699793&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I dont have a picture right now, but this link is pretty much What like what I used. https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Medium-Weight-Inches-Square/dp/B003X3VZA0/

If you look at the picture of the end of the roll you can see the sides better. It is kinda like what you are saying. It is fleshy and softer on one side, but a little slicker and like sandpaper on the other.

Ive got some left over leather so ill do some experimenting with it.

Absolutely. I would recommend a few tools to get started - a cheap set of stitching chisels to get you started (these poke the holes for the needles to go in and out of), a cheap wing divider to scribe a straight stitching line, some waxed thread I linked Ritza Tiger 25 in 0.6mm because it's pretty much all I use, there are cheaper options, but this thread is wonderful to work with. Most of the other thread on amazon is going to be thicker and look too chunky with a 4mm iron IMO. Lastly, some needles. I use and like these. Then just look up a few youtube videos on saddle stitching. You'll have it down in no time. It's really not super difficult, there are a few tricks to making it look nice.

I'm just beginning myself, but Al Stohlman's The Art of Hand Sewing Leather is pretty much the go-to resource for learning how to hand stitch.

The skull is great, but the stitching and edges could use work.

I highly recommend you look into getting a set of leather stitching punches like these (I don’t know anything about this brand in particular, just linking to an example). It makes hand-stitching way easier and indistinguishable from a machine stitch in terms of aesthetics.

This is just my second wallet, heavily inspired by /u/sgircys (thanks for the awesome tutorial). The leather is 2-3 oz Oak Leaf from Tandy. I've given it a couple of coats of neatsfoot oil and left it in the sun for a day. The tread is 0.8 mm black tiger thread. Chisels are these cheap ones from amazon. I've used the 6 prong one to do all of the holes in the wallet.

Another side question, if I want to get a dye would you guys recommend the oil based ones or water based?

Gotcha. Does it stretch or move a lot when you cut it?

Yeah that’s not the best way to mark stitching lines so I recommend a wing divider. This will be cost effective and will help tremendously with your stitching.

I bought these two when I started and still use them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779R5FCJ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_A727AbF4N33A3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_a827AbKEF359B

They work great for me and will eventually upgrade to some quality tools like KS.

Thanks so much for the response!

Hmmm maybe that's it. What do you mean by casting? Also, I wonder if my needle is too large. I find that to really get it through the holes, I need to push an awl through and the original diamond shape is somewhat lost. As far as ensuring the slant, I think I'm doing this correctly. It's hard to tell from this picture as the stitches rest in a stitching groove, but they had a slight slant, and the backend definitely looked ~ok~ (though a bit messy like you see in the picture as far as looking a bit "twisted")

I agree about the thread gauge too-- maybe it's too thick.

Thread

Needles

Punches

Thanks for the interest. I used 2-3oz economy leather from Tandy Leather. Here's the list of tools I used:

• Swivel Knife
  
• Nylon Mallet - I have the Al Strohman version, got on sale.
  
• Beveler Stamp - Perimeter edge
  
• Background Stamp
  
• Wing Divider - to mark stitching line
  
• Hole Punch
  
  Finished with:
  
• Saddle Tan Antique Gel
  
• Neatsfoot oil to soften
  
• Tan-Kote to seal/protect the leather
  
  Hope this helps

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

Stohlman's How to Make Leather Cases Vol. 3 has plans for a very nice scabbard, but it's not for a 10/22. Still, it's chock full of useful information for the leatherworker. Very heavily western-inspired, however, if you prefer the European look you might want to get The Leatherworking Handbook for inspiration. No rifle scabbard plans there, however.

Just today I bought some materials, I bought a cheap cutting board, a small and large metal ruler, a leather sewing kit from amazon, a 12"x12" of 4oz, and 12"x12" of 2oz.

For my first attempt, I'm going to omit the ID window and add another two slots for cards. Once I somewhat know what I'm doing I'm going to go for the ID slot. I should get all the materials in about a week or so. I'll keep you updated. I've seen some videos on how to clean up the edges once finished, I'm ot quite sure what tools I'll need for that. Some videos looked like almost a soldering iron, some looked like they used some sort of wheel.

Your bag looks like the first bag I made. It has the earmarks of being made by someone who has experience sewing fabric and apparel. Fabric sewing and leather craft have many shared skills, but leather has stand alone skills that you will need to learn. Many crafters here have learned through on-line tutorials. I started with this book, which I would recommend. https://www.amazon.com/Leatherworking-Handbook-Illustrated-Sourcebook-Techniques/dp/1844034747. This book is also a wonderful resource for bag designers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/9887710806/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think it's this one through Amazon: Leather Side Piece Veg Tan Split Medium Weight

So based on aColorfulWorld comment, looks like I got exactly what I asked for, just didn't know what to ask. Well, learned my lesson this time around.

Thanks!

1. Your current mock-up is good for figuring out the basics of what you want it to look like. You'll want to go back through and do a mock-up with posterboard & tape. You can then disassemble the posterboard and use it as a template for cutting out your leather to the appropriate dimensions. Trust me - this will make things much easier and reduce the risk of screwing up/wasting leather when you get to that step.
   
   
2. You need a leather that is rigid enough to undergo wear and tear, so your best bet is to go with some medium weight vegtan leather
   
   
3. Other than the leather, you'll need a stitching awl, needles, and thread. These are the bare basics for what you're trying to do. Other tools like a stitching groover can help you get a nicer finished product but aren't necessary if you're simply going for a basic, serviceable pouch on your first project.

Its hard to really judge since the leather and the thread are the same color, but the thread looks too thick IMO. Keep working at it and if you stitch in a contrasting color you will really be able to see your mistakes, helping you improve.

Sewing just takes practice, keep at it and watch this vid if you haven't already

This is also a really good book

I used cheap stitching chisels from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to punch the holes preassembly. Then glued everything and stitched it up. I don't have a small diamond awl but that would definitely make things a lot easier. I put a bunch of needles through the corner holes to keep them lined up but they naturally fell out of line (because of the outside curve vs the inside curve) so I had to back stitch one side to realign them.

There's a pretty good breakdown of gussets in [The Leatherworking Handbook by Valerie Michael](The Leatherworking Handbook: A Practical Illustrated Sourcebook of Techniques and Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/1844034747/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ExzwybMH8RT6S). I remember coming across it in a Google search as well, maybe Andersen leather? (Apologies if that's not it.)

EDIT: I just looked at my copy and the gusset you described is found on page 57-59.

This subreddit recommended this book. I bought it and it's pretty good.

Use a wing divider to draw your stitch line.

Leather Wing Divider KangTeer 5.5 inch Leathers DIY Tool Adjustable Craft Edge Creaser Rotating Leathercraft Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CK2569L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.gN1Bb9T67MEM

Then, use a diamond chisel to punch your holes.

Aiskaer White Steel 4mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits (4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uiN1Bb2NAQ60Z

I use both of these products and have zero issues getting clean stitching.

The Art of Hand Sewing Leather by Al Stohlman has directions for building a stitching pony. I haven't built one but it seems to be well regarded. If you don't have the $11 to buy the book (also well regarded) you may be able to find the plans out in the webs.

No plans, but there is a walkthrough of a guy building a variation on Stohlman's pony.

Edit: also found these plans in an older book. A little hard to read, and I'm guessing they require some skill as a carpenter.

Thanks for responding!

I can post pictures when I am home, but basically they kinda overlap and sometimes they go up, sometimes down, it's not neat. The front looks uniform though.

I am using flat chisel hole punches, which I am sure amounts to heresy. These guys: http://amzn.com/B00CBRMRNI

I used a stitching awl on a trial piece which was even worse. But until I can tweak my budget to work in diamond punches or better awls, those are all I have to work with. So it is quite possible that it's just an artifact of the tools I'm using and not my technique (for instance in cross stitching, how they say the crosses should all be in the same direction, otherwise the piece will look unfinished).

Personally i would have punched the holes with something like these. I bought these to do my stitching and they work wonderfully. I then would just miss the second layer with 1 or 2 stiches and continue past the corner and start into it again.

Here is a quick bracelet i did with them
That was my first time stitching ever.

Way, WAY below your budget but I got one of these plus a strop and it’s my best purchase yet next to my KS Blade pricking irons

yep often a set will come with a 1/2/4/6 set up you can often get a 10 as well. it's nice because the spacing is standardized for each set.

It looks good! If you have ~$20 to spend you can get a groover ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074YD8DXY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506701984&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=leather+working+tools&dpPl=1&dpID=51qIiFoZwYL&ref=plSrch ) and stitching prongs? I'm not sure of the technical term ( www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T17OULI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506702124&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=leather+stitching+punch&psc=1 )

Depends on what you want to do.

I like Valerie Michael

On stitching leather, get Al Stohlman

I use these to actually punch the holes on thinner leather: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/

For projects, you can do slightly larger bags, dop kits, etc if you go for a fabric lining, duck cloth or canvas would add good reinforcement.

If you're at all interested in handsewing leather, this is literally the handsewing + beginning leatherwork bible

The Art of Handsewing Leather is usually highly regarded.

http://www.amazon.com/Art-Hand-Sewing-Leather/dp/1892214911/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464628998&sr=8-1&keywords=al+stohlman

I got these needles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001687P3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these punches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stitch Chisels 4mm
Wax thread
Saddle stitch

Gonna try this out. Japanese style cheap knife. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9HDKEA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A4V6KRCAH7YC8&psc=1

No problem, here is the link to the exact ones we use on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBRMRNI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - they are cheap too.

They're 2 different tools and are manufactured very differently.

Pricking irons are not meant to penetrate all the way through the leather - people do it, but they're not designed for that. They're only meant to initially space and angle the stitching holes so you have a good guide to fully puncture the leather with an awl. They "prick" the leather. The points are usually filed and cut very precisely out of high quality steel to last a lifetime - using it improperly as a punch risks bending and breaking a tooth. They generally have 8 or more teeth to lay out long stretches or 2 teeth to go around corners.

Diamond punches are lower quality tools that are stamped and ground to shape. They're meant to go all the way through thinner leathers and into a cutting surface. If you break or bend a tooth, no worries, they're easily replaceable. They can be used as a poor man's pricking iron, but stitching wheels are better for that job. They have 4, 2, or 1 tooth variations, as more teeth would be harder to punch through and remove. The main downside is you get a 1 size fits all big damn hole.

And don't use a lacing chisel for stitching, where the slits line up in the direction you're going. The thread falls into the hole and you'll have an ugly space between every stitch. I see way too many people on this subreddit doing it, and it needs to stop.

Pricking irons were mainly developed in Europe and England, where tight stitches of 8spi and higher were common and prized as quality craftsmanship. Western style leatherworking mainly relied on stitching wheels and awls at 3-8 spi. Saddles have a lot of curves, where a pricking iron would be useless, and larger threads with fewer spi is just as strong if not stronger with heavy leathers. Diamond punches are kind of a recent invention from the crafty side of the trade.

Basically, I sew Western style, with a stitching wheel and a diamond awl. If you want to learn how, there's only one book to get - Al Stohlman's Art of Sewing Leather. With an awl, you can vary stitch length and hole size at will to fit the project, thread size, and leather thicknesses. If the leather is too thin or floppy for an awl, I sit down with a glover's needle and a big damn thimble I made for myself. My punches are rusting somewhere, and if you want them, you can have 'em.