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>I just got a Garand from the CMP. I know how to look up the serial number, but is there any way for me to look up the numbers on other parts like the bolt?

You can try to match them with the reference parts over at AmmoGarand, but I think the best thing to do would be to get a copy of Bruce Canfield's book.

>Also, how do I know if my stock is original USGI? It has the “P” stamp (with no circle around it) and a “25” under the grip.

Post lots of pictures on this subreddit and folks can help you identify.

CMP M1 stocks are not sealed. If they were then they wouldn't accept oil. The mil-spec calls for tung oil which will give you the best look over time. Tung oil is also the best at repelling water and dries fastest.

Apply a thin coat of the oil with a rag and allow to dry before putting on the next coat. Get yourself some 0000 steel wool, and clean the oil off the steel wool with brake cleaner - steel wool comes oiled from the manufacturer to prevent it from rusting. Rub down the stock with the steel wool after each coat dries and before applying the next coat. Be careful with the rags because they can spontaneously combust.


HOPE'S 100% Tung Oil 16 oz-Pt, Green, 16 Fl Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002V4PF3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a3gQDbZZNBR13

Hey there. This sub just masturbates all day long to the CMP. However the CMP has been known to provide rifles with serious issues. Oldschool M1 rifle Gurus hate the CMP. But, you can work with the CMP to get a nice rifle. So there are pros and cons, but the CMP is not the only route.

I am old school, and I seriously advocate for going to a place where you can personally handle a few rifles and talk to a few guys in person who know their stuff. Call a few shops and ask who knows antique Military surplus rifles. These guns are finicky even at their best and require some knowledge. We gets lots of dumb ass posts on this thread every week where some guys spent the money but didn't pick up a book or do a lick of research and then encountered a simple quirk of the M1 system that left them stymied.

So, I would first buy a good book on shooting the M1 Garand. They are cheap and plentiful. Here is one I own and recommend for a beginner: https://www.amazon.com/Complete-M1-Garand-Jim-Thompson/dp/0873649842

Second, go talk to some people. Internet does not count. You just can't get the kind of detailed info a 5 minute conversation with someone in person that you can get from an online post, like this one for example.

Third, compare the CMP to other options because there are other options.

Finally, just hammer the research. Look at every photo online you can find, read every article. If you are going to spend $1000 on a rifle, you must understand that knowledge is free and will put you far ahead of the pack. I hope this helps.

I'm in the same boat - mine arrives today from CMP - so I've been doing the same as you.

I got this book from Amazon, and it's proven to be a good resource for me while I've been waiting for my rifle.

One thing you'll need for sure is grease to lubricate all the rotating parts. After doing a bit of research, I arrived at this grease off Amazon.

You'll of course need ammo and enbloc clips. CMP is also the best/cheapest source of both of those, so add that to your order for the bayonet.

Finally this website is another good resource.

Enjoy your rifle!!

Regular bits are angled. Gunsmithing bits are square. If you use regular bits your screw heads will certainly show damage. You most certainly need proper fitting hollow ground bits to do the job right.

Field stripping an M1 Garand does not require any tools. But what you're attempting to do does.

My buddy asked me for my recommendation last year and I told him this: it's more important you have the correct sized bits vs high quality bits. If you can afford both, great! But most of us have a budget so go with a set with a large variety of sizes. Remember, both the width and depth are equally important. A bit that is too wide will open the ends of a head like an opposing set of parentheses. A bit that is too narrow round out the top like opposing lower-case r's.

He ended up buying:
Wheeler 89-Piece Deluxe Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set, Black/Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uwzdBbY5REFM0

And of course, you need to steady the rifle so be sure to have a cleaning rest. Mine is cheap but it works great:
Tipton Gun Butler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036FFQAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyzdBbR86YV6Z

if you feel like spending money on books I'd recommend this book by Joe Poyer. For it's $22 price and size it actually covers a good amount of detail about the Garand, especially if you are into collecting them and identifying parts.

Theres also Bruce Canefield's 1000+ page book. It goes into great detail about the development and service history of the garand but its $95.

I also heard good things about Scott Duff's three garand books, but I have yet to buy and read them:

M1 Garand WWII Development and Production

M1 Garand Post WWII

M1 Garand Owner's Guide

Thanks! I got the sling off Amazon, a repro manufactured in India by the listing info.

This being my first M1, I had a bit of a rocky start earlier today, firing 128 rounds of surplus Austrian 7.62 NATO. I'll chalk up most of them to user error as I was learning my way around the gun, buuuuut:

• Had a few issues with clips not feeding properly. I'll chalk this up to mostly me learning how to feed the clips and the general finickiness of the M1.
  
• About 60 or so rounds in, the front sight fell off. Range gunsmith came in to look at it, determined it was probably the oil heating up and loosening the sight, so we fixed it on the spot.
  
• Around 90-100 rounds, had a failure to feed and the bolt actually got jammed up. Gunsmith came back with a rubber mallet and freed it up.
  
  Other than that though, it sent rounds downrange when it wasn't being a dick about the clips. I'm still relatively new to shooting so I was getting horrible groups (albeit still hitting the target), but the other shooters at the range were able to get good ones at 20, 25 yards (I only have access to a 50 yard indoor range here in NJ). Recoils like a son-of-a-bitch, but I guess that's part of the charm.

Are you looking for a sling for shooting or a sling for carrying? Since you mentioned the 1907 sling, I'll assume for shooting. The original fabric ones are just fine, as are the leather versions. I used a fabric one for several years in high power competition. Any of the reproductions should be fine as well. Just decide how much you want to spend I guess. This one seems fine to me.

Any high temp grease will work for sure, as everyone said Lubriplate 130a is the original stuff and I have some.

If you want to save money this works great as well https://www.amazon.com/Mag-723-High-Temp-Bearing-Grease/dp/B002GK642K/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3W4V77MF90EKA9ZRGE0G

They sell it at walmart for cheaper some brands might label it as "Red 'n Tacky" but its much cheaper and works great. Its got all the rust inhibitors and stays where you put it. I mean think about the last time you changed the wheel bearing grease in your car....

Point is dont get caught up buying expensive grease. Automotive grease is made for much harsher conditions than that of a firearm and will work pretty damn well.

You want some good old LubriPlate 130-A. A 1 lb tub will run you about $18 and is essentially a lifetime supply. It's great for M1911 pistols too.

I'm definitely in the camp of using raw linseed oil too. You don't even have to buy the expensive kits from gun websites. Raw linseed oil is also called flax oil and can be purchased in the Barlean's bottle from Amazon for super cheap, and it will last you forever (I use it on all of mine).
I heard about it on this sub.

Barlean's Fresh Organic Flax Oil, 16 Fl Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VLZ830/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gQyMDbEQVMGVR

If you want to get that reddish hue on the stock, use Raw linseed oil. Tung oil will not get you that USGI red look, but it will give you a more durable finish and as stated above, as it builds up like a finish.

Here is what I use on my Garand, has a lot of the omega fatty acids responsible for the red oxidization that occurs.

https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Foods-Flax-Seed-Ounces/dp/B0013OUOQW

To clarify, the flaxseed oil is the food safe one that’s in the fridge section? Is this the stuff you’re talking about? Barlean's Fresh Organic Flax Oil, 16 Fl Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VLZ830/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b.W3DbPSGD0ZX

KaBar Big Brother

Ontario Marine Raider

Ontario Freedom Fighter

Gun safe with dehumidifier installed in the safe. I use the goldenrod.

GoldenRod 24" Dehumidifier Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1WYZ1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FNUXCb64R5EGT

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-47500000-Tung-Finish-pint/dp/B002KHRNLU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=tung+oil&qid=1564354078&s=hi&sr=1-6

Would this be any good?

These have been posted here before. I have no idea which is better or how well they would work, though.

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Arms-Gear-Insignias-Springfield/dp/B008UAQ06A

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KCS5X8O/