Best products from r/MPSelectMiniOwners
We found 133 comments on r/MPSelectMiniOwners discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 307 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. GO-3D PRINT 130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/Corners Cut for Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Print
- Size: 130mm x 160mm x 3mm w/ Corners Cut
- To print with ABS or PLA, lightly spray the surface of the glass with AquaNet hairspray, then install the glass.
- Be sure to print your Z Spacer for our 3mm Borosilicate Glass Bed
- Fit Monoprice MP Select Mini / Pro 3D Printer, Malyan M200 w/ Corners Cut for the Leveling Screws, flat Polished Edge for safe to handle
- Designed by GO-3D Print in California
Features:
2. Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)
- Premium quiet fan, 40x40x10 mm, 12V, 3-pin Molex, 4500/3700 RPM, max. 17.9 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTF
- Award-winning 40x10mm A-series fan with Flow Acceleration Channels and Advanced Acoustic Optimisation frame for superior quiet cooling performance
- Ideal replacement for noisy or broken 12V 4cm fans in 3D printers, DVRs, NAS, switches, routers, other network and storage devices, etc.
- 3-pin 12V FLX version can be run 4500 or 3700 rpm using the supplied Low-Noise Adaptors to fine-tune the fan for maximum airflow or near-silent operation
- Includes anti-vibration mounts, fan screws, Low-Noise Adaptor, extension cable and OmniJoin adaptor set for connecting the fan to proprietary fan headers
Features:
3. uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink
- Product Name : CPU Thermal Pad;Material : Silicone
- Size : 40 x 20.5cm/15.7'' x 8.1'' (L*W)
- Thickness : 0.5mm/0.02''
- Weight : 103g
- Package Content : 1 x CPU Thermal Pad
Features:
4. 130mm X 160mm, 3mm Thick Borosilicate Glass Build Plate, Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer
- Cool, soothing, temporary relief of minor aches and pains
- Temporarily relieve muscle pain
- Temporarily relieve back pain
- Temporarily relieve sports sprains, strains
- Temporarily relieve bruises pain
Features:
5. E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED)
High Quality Printing: We've kept our sharp thermal transition that gives the high quality printing performance users have come to expect from E3D HotEnds. A sharp thermal break gives better control over filament output so you get more immediate start and stops when extruding as well as retracts tha...
6. 2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm)
Material: Aluminum alloy; Size: 25x19mm( L*D)Feature: Set screws (Coiling Clamping); Main Color: Silver toneThe shaft couplers are widely applied to small CNC machines encoding and 3D printers Z shaft coupling, simplifies the debugging difficulty.
7. JIUWU Pneumatic Air Straight Fitting 4mm Thread M6 One Touch Hose Connector Pack of 10
- Medium:Air & Water
- Apply for:PU hose ,Nylon Pipe ect
- Material:Plastic+Metal
- Thread Size(Male): M6
- Inner Diameter(Blue end):4mm
Features:
8. Anycubic All Metal Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block DIY Kit for Reprap i3 3D Printer
MK8 extruder aluminum block DIY kitMakerbot dedicated double nozzle (Right nozzle)Extrusion head aluminum block For Reprap i3Ship via USPS with tracking number,7-13 days to arrive USA
9. Scythe Mini Kaze 40mm Silent Case Fan (SY124010L)
- Airflow: 4.11CFM
- Bearing Type: Sleeve Bearing
- Connector: 2pin (3pin adaptor included)
- Noise: 14.00dBA
- Rated Voltage: 12V
Features:
10. BIQU 3D-M6 0.4mm Brass Extruder Nozzle Print Head for 1.75mm Filament 3D Printer (Pack of 5pcs)
- eSUN 3D Printing Filament, Plastic, PLA, 1.75mm diameter, 1.0 kg (2.21lb).
- Manufactured to precise standards, 1.75mm +/_0.05mm.
- For Ultimaker, Ultimaker 2, Deezmaker Bukobot, MendelMax and other printers that accept 1.75mm filament.
- Wide-core spool reduces extrusion difficulty caused by tightly coiled filament.
- Recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature 190¡ãC - 220¡ãC, for printers without a heated print bed.
Features:
11. Iverntech 3D Printer Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block DIY Kit for RepRap Prusa i3
- Iverntech All Metal Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block
- Brass gear, 26T, inner diameter: 5mm, outside diameter: 11mm
- The recommended steps per unit for extruder motor (1.8 degree) : 95-100
- Widely used in all kinds of prusa i3 3d printers
- Installation please refer to picture 5, 6
Features:
12. 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, 12" squares (pack of 6)
- High speed processing of parts in the medical, telecommunications and electronics markets (medical components, durable labels, flexible circuits).
- Bonding graphic overlays for membrane switches and for bonding the complete switch to the equipment surface.
- Bonding metal nameplates and rating plates in the aerospace, medical and industrial equipment, automotive, appliance and electronic markets.
- Excellent resistance to harsh environments; this adhesive can withstand splashes of organic solvents, weak acids and bases and salt water, cleaning solutions, germicidals, disinfectants, oils, etc. In addition, it performs well after exposure to humidity and hot/cold cycles.
- Lamination to industrial foams for rotary die-cutting of small gaskets for industrial and electronics markets.
Features:
13. PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length
- PEI is a strong, rigid plastic that withstands high temperatures and offers excellent electrical insulation over a wide range of temperatures
- Color is opaque Natural
- Meets ASTM D5205 PEI0113 specifications
- Note: The Standard Cut Tolerance on the Width and Length is (+/-) 3/16”
Features:
14. Flirc Raspberry Pi 3B Case
- The best looking Raspberry Pi case made out of beautiful aluminum
- All New Manufacturing Process with improved metal quality and design
- Made for the new Raspberry Pi 3 B+, works with Raspberry Pi 3, 2 and B+ Models
- GPIO and all the main connectors are easily accessible through the bottom
- Built in Heat Sink and comes with a thermal pad and 4 screws
Features:
15. WAHHING 10PCS 2mm thick Heater block cotton Safe Working Temp less 300°C For 3D printer Hotend
★Recommend Safe Working Temperature : <300°C★You can Punch Holes or Cut fit size to the cotton.Heat preservation, keep heater block and consumable work better.Size: 3.35in/85mm x 0.8in/20mm x 0.08in/2mm (+/-0.05in)Package: 10 pcs * WAHHING heater block cottons.
16. WINSINN 40mm Fan 12V Hydraulic Bearing Brushless 4010 40x10mm - High Speed (Pack of 5Pcs)
✔️️Hydraulic Bearings 4010 Fan - High Speed version✔️High quality Hydraulic bearings, Better than Oil bearings, More stable and Long life, suitable for continuous work. The life expectancy is about 45,000 hours.✔️️Rated voltage: DC 12V✔️️Size: 40x40x10mm✔️Made by WINSINN.
17. Neiko 01902 Adjustable Helping Hand With Magnifying Glass | Dual Alligator Clips
- HELPING HAND SOLDERING STATION: This helpful tool frees your hands for safe soldering, gluing, positioning, fastening, and assembly of objects small to large in size for tasks requiring a high level of precision, such as avionics.
- MAGNIFYING GLASS WITH STAND: This soldering helping hand is equipped with a 2x magnifying glass on an adjustable arm to perform precision work on even the smallest of objects or workpieces. With this tool, you can achieve near-perfect results.
- DUAL-CLIP STAND: Dual alligator spring clamps are attached to wire holders on adjustable arms that securely hold components, work pieces, small electronics, and appliances steady for soldering tasks that require accuracy and efficiency.
- ADJUSTABLE HELPING HAND: The mirror and clamps are mounted on adjustable ball joints to position and view work at any angle and to serve as extra hands to view objects at the most difficult angles with ease.
- SOLDER STATION WITH HEAVY-DUTY BASE: The heavy-duty cast-iron base keeps the unit upright and stable and provides a secure hold that keeps objects steady while working on or soldering components. Perform even the finest work with this helpful tool.
Features:
18. FYSETC 3D Printer Parts MP Select Mini V2 Silicone Sock BP6 Heater Block Silicone Cover Hotend Protect for Anycub V5 Hotend/Monoprice MP Select Mini V2/ MP Mini Delta, 3Pcs
Must spare accessories for most V2's printer, but make sure the heater block dimensions are 16mm x 16mm x 12mm. Some early batches of Select Mini V2's had heater blocks that are 20mm x 20mm x 10mm.Requires using the stock cotton insulation under the silicone sock, replace the original Kapton tape.Ot...
19. Noctua NF-A4x20 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (40x20mm, Brown)
Premium quiet fan, 40x40x20 mm, 12V, 4-pin PWM, max. 5000 RPM, max. 14.9 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTFAward-winning A-series design with Flow Acceleration Channels and Advanced Acoustic Optimisation frame for superior quiet cooling performance40x20mm size ideal for 1U servers or replacing fans in network a...
20. Smartbuy 1.75mm Orange PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1kg Spool/Roll (2.2 lbs) - Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm
- STAR QUAD: (4) 24 AWG Copper Conductors In Star-Quad Configuration Reject More Electromagnetic Interference (EMI) Than Standard 2-Core Cables By Tightly Twisting The 4 Conductors In Opposing Pairs.
- PLIABLE & DURABLE CABLE: Soft Rubberized PVC Jacket Is Extremely Flexible Yet Made To Be Over 6mm Thick To Reduce Handling Noise And To Stand Up Against Heavy Use
- QUALITY CONNECTORS: Mediabridge XLR Connectors With Black Metal Housing Featuring Gold Plated Contacts To Provide High Contact Integrity And A Black Rubber Relief Reduces Cable Strain
- SHIELDING: Copper Clad Steel Braiding Over 100% Aluminum Foil Complements The Star-Quad Construction Preventing EMI.
- Xlr cable ; xlr patch cable ; microphone cable ; mic cable ; cable for microphone ; microphone cord ; xlr female ; xlr female to male ; xlr microphone cable ; xlr male to female
Features:
Edit: Success! Increased bed heat to 60c and used the famous gluestick. That resolved to lack of adhesion for me and got me a good benchy. now, there are other issues to resolve still - but isn't that half the adventure with this hobby? Thanks for all the help everyone!
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Looking for some guidance on the right steps to troubleshoot and hopefully resolve my new issues.
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TL:DR: Installed new glass build plate and PLA prints will not stick. No successful prints over 30 minutes yet. I've had one print completely detach, and this benchy had significant warping. The issue wasn't present with the buildTak - but the buildTak had insane adhesion - too much actually.
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Setup:
Monoprice Select Mini v2. Almost all stock, this is the first build related upgrade. PLA, 50c bed temp, 200c hotend temp, 0.175 layer height, 20% infill, 50mm print speed.
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Long Version:
I had been using the buildtak for a few months and had two problems: too much adhesion (breaking prints while removing from buildtak) and the bed was bowing up in the middle.
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I bought this borosilicate glass plate and a silicone thermal pad to make sure it would heat up. Installed them, z spacer, attach with 4 binder clips, leveled the bed. Tried using it without any other changes and PLA would not stick at all. Then tried to use some hairspray and it appeared to work after a little fiddling. Finally got what I thought was a good first and second layer. Checked on it about every 10 minutes and suddenly I noticed that it's about half off the glass surface with warping. I was pretty sure it was going to detach completely soon, so I just stopped the print.
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Anyone have suggestions on how to properly use glass or some tricks? I was previously using tricks to get less adhesion so this is a bit new - and I'd prefer to keep the glass as flat/smooth as possible (wouldn't prefer to sand it for example).
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I've tried heating the bed to 60c and letting it pre-heat for longer to let the glass heat up and that seemed to help, but not completely. I've also tried to slow down the first layer and that seemed to help the first layer adhesion a bit - I haven't re-tried a benchy with a slower 1st layer yet, but I wasn't confident that helped the adhesion enough to prevent the warping.
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I printed a bed level test and so long as the PLA stuck, it looks pretty good - although my center is higher than the edges even though all 4 corners look OK - but that's an issue for another day and another thread.
I'm guessing you have the Monoprice Select Mini V2? I'm using the "Pro" model (V3), which I only mention because the issues I run into differ from the V2.
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Mine seems to have a slightly different extruder but just to be safe, after getting everything set up I printed out the MPSM V2 Improved Extruder from Thingiverse just in case something happened. I would recommend the same, since I hear it breaks often on the MP Mini V2. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756509)
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I would also recommend getting a raspberry pi and installing Octoprint on it. It lets me print wireless on my printer without issues. Plus I've never had to deal with corrupted files on the SD card or my computer going to sleep or something. You can print out a case for the Pi as well or get this awesome looking one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07349HT26/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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I think this video does the best at explaining cura settings but it isn't complete. There are some better ones for the initial setup.
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1gRTQqS_W8&lc=z23ovbz5zyf0tjbmwacdp431getygkl0asus1zemmjtw03c010c)
Agreed. This was the best investment I could have made in my MPSMV2. I bought this one, there are cheaper ways to go, but I felt that the savings in time and fiddling around cutting glass was well worth the cost. Be sure you first print a 3mm gap adjustment device. I printed several including an adjustable one, but settled on this one from Thingiverse. I did not remove the black pad on my V2, I just use tiny binder clips to attach the glass to the bed. It leveled perfectly and heats very well.
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I used a piece of 20 lb copy paper to set my nozzle gap, so even though you own a feeler gauge, I recommend checking it against a piece of paper. You want the first layer to be a flattened tube, not a round tube as it appears in your pictures.
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Many people suggest Aqua Net hair spray, but my store only carried it in aerosol. I felt that would be a mess to spray onto the glass, so I got some pump hair spray that was right next to the Aqua Net on the cheap shelf (it had similar ingredients to the Aqua Net, primarily water). I spray the hairspray onto a paper towel and then wipe the cold glass to create a very thin film. I have found that the adhesion is excellent at 50-60 degrees, and the parts pop right off after the bed cools (using PLA, various brands).
You are good, no worries!
I got this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK9JFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I believe it's genuine, but if not I can at least attest to its validity. Literally ZERO issues over the past year and a half. Prints beautifully.
If you prefer getting it straight from them, here's ya boy:
https://e3d-online.com/v6-all-metal-hotend?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoKzsBRC5ARIsAITcwXHo8yYQOrXG0QXg0n_A2hYDcjYz5T8NXcjrL9MagUbDfNrqgSl04vEaAmc5EALw_wcB
It fits right into the carriage of the old one where it clamps around the heatsink and you put the fan on the front, just like the original.
Two big changes with this.
First:
The new wires it comes with are great, but sadly not the same plastic connectors on the end that fit into the motherboard down in the printer, so I chopped off the old ones and swapped them over to one end of the new wires, so they could be plugged in.
I never soldered before getting this printer, but, as I like to stay... "YOU GON' Learn Ta-day!"
Leave enough old wire there for error (or I did at least, for shrink wrap or electrical tape to more than cover the solder point). The convenience of doing this is the other end of the wires leave connectors right near the hotend for the thermistor and the fan which can be disconnected for any reason you need in the future. (its also a negative I found later- as its a flex point on the wire, my thermistor wore out there due to the constant movement and I replaced it for just 8 bucks. However, this is where those quick connectors near the hotend paid off though, because zero soldering required. I snagged a few extras for longevity.
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Secondly:
Once it is installed you'll notice it doesn't stick down as far, and when you go to "Home" location, you can't get lower to reach the bed.
If I was home I would snag a picture.. but basically I got longer bed screws (4), 4 spacers (1/4 inch I think?) and incorporated the same springs on top of the spacers (with the longer screws through them). I just took an original screw into a hardware store, found longer versions and spacers that looked like these below:
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Spacer-3ZMA8?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Products_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLARECS&cm_vc=IDPPLARECS
You'll need spacers OR new longer springs... your call. Pain in the butt to put it together but once screwed in, works like a charm with the same functionality as it did prior, just higher up where the new hotend can reach it.
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Feel free to reach out if you have more questions or concerns.
I had this happen on mine. Scrape it off the best you can and use Goo-Gone to purge the remaining adhesive. Once you have a clean metal bed, painters tape works great and is cheap and easy to replace. If you are feeling up to it, you can install a glass bed on top of the metal like I did, just make sure to level the bed right if you do because the glass adds extra space. Then use a purple glue stick for some extra adhesion if you need it!
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Here is the link to the bed I am using, and I am completely satisfied so far -> https://www.amazon.com/Borosilicate-Polished-Corners-Monoprice-Select/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549203064&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=monoprice+mini+v2+glass+bed
I've replaced both the hot end fan and the case fan with these. Print the 40mm version of this first though. Replacing the hot end fan will require cutting the wires and soldering. I actually cut the wires on the printer, then cut the "3" end off the 3-2 adapter included with the fans. Then I soldered on the "2" end so I'd have a plug to plug in the fan and any other fan I may get in the future.
Also, My V2 was super loud as well.
I followed this guy's tutorial, it now incredibly quiet.
The bed bushings were really easy to replace, the X axis was much harder. I ended up drilling a few holes in the plastic carriage and securing the PLA bushings with zipties, as they kept slipping out when it went back and forth.
My printer is so quiet now, it's incredible. I didn't need to remove the X-axis shield on mine.
Something I learned later was to heat up one of the metal rods on the stove a bit. Just one end so you can still hold it. Slip on the plastic bushings you printed one at a time, the heat will melt them and make them super smooth and glide easy.
As far as the bed wiring goes, it's a common problem for them to get pinched due to the way they are routed and mounted at the factory. This usually ends up in an opening in the circuit (either in the heater or the thermistor wires, or both) because the wire inside the insulation has actually broken. If your bed temp reading shows 0 or 999 during printing or preheating, it has happened to you. This guide helped me with rewiring and rerouting the bed wires to eliminate this problem when it happened to me. If you're not comfortable with soldering it yourself there even a link in there to where you can buy a whole new bed with the wires already soldered on. Then just print the parts they recommend for the new side panel and you're good to go! Also, since I soldered my wires directly off the back of the bed I went with a center mount for the cable brace grommet, there are remixes to the one linked in the guide. As a final note, I recommend a glass bed, this is the one that I got and I just hold it on with small binder clips. With that, a bit of glue stick, and the heated bed, I'm getting the best adhesion I could ever need. After a print is done just throw it in the freezer for 30 minutes and it will pop right off. If you've already seen all this but haven't taken the time to do it, just do it! It's definitely worth it. If it's new info for you then I hope it helps. Happy printing!
I bought the same thing for my v1:
12"x12" 0.03" PEI
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/
(6) 12x12" 3M Adhesive Transfer Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/
At the time there were no practical cheaper/smaller options (although the extra 3M adhesive does come in handy).
... I scored/snapped the sheet into 4 pieces, and I'm still on the first PEI sheet after like 300 hours. It still looks flawless. I only use sharp scraper blades or no tools to remove parts. If you're printing something crazy in a cold room, you can add hairspray, but for the most part, PEI has perfect adhesion on it's own.
I definitely recommend the thicker PEI (0.03"+), as it makes the MPSM bed much more rigid. I don't have to bend the aluminum bed "flat again" anymore. I dont worry about bending the bed when ripping parts off the bed, even with super high adhesion.
Clean it with alcohol, not sandpaper.
Another update in my quest to learn how/why the Noctua fans work with the Monoprice. I started the upgrade process for printer and cut off the stock fan. Before I soldered the new one on, I thought I'd check out if the new fan "just worked." I turned my extruder heat to 100C since I know the stock fan kicks on at 75C, and when I bared back the wires and hooked black to black and red to red... nothing happened. Now I'm confused, because it's a PWM fan like I thought would workl.
I got out my voltmeter and I read 10V coming out of the line. Now, I'm pretty sure the power coming out of the printer is pulsed 12V DC, and I know my voltmeter doesn't have a setting for pulsed DC, so I'm not sure if 10V is the average power or if 10V is the peak or what my meter is reading. But if I touch the leads of my stock fans back to the printer, the stock fan turns out. I touch the Noctua fan leads, it doesn't turn on. Bummer.
So now I'm back in the boat with everyone else and have no idea what's going on. I don't have a capacitor to try out like u/cpr420 just yet (back to Amazon I go). I don't want to just tell it to kick off a print as I'd rather not run the hot end without cooling working properly, so the next plan is to get a bit of gcode written up and force full power at 12V to see if my fan turns on. Alternatively, I think I can hook it up to Pronterface and just tell my printer to turn the fan on. I'm not that familiar with Pronterface just yet.
Anyway, wanted to check in again with new info. I'll post again as I learn more.
Found these couplers on Amazon. Two for $4. Need to test but sofar it looks good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018VE5YAW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: This is a better solution than the 3dprint couplers available on thingsverse that I've tried. The reason is that the printed couplers clamp on the stepper motor shaft transferring the entire load of the X axis assembly to the bottom stepper motor bearing. This new coupler, like the Malyan original, retains the two nylon washers and transfers the load to the top bearing surface which is fixed to the motor case and printer chassis.
I purchased a box of 5 40mm fans off of Amazon. They don't have the same connector so I just swapped the connectors. This will also give me the ability to use one of the 40mm fans for the hot end when I replace the cooling fan. Octoprint is amazing. I will never go back to swapping out SD cards after using Octoprint. Really, you can do both. Just order a raspberry pi and some fans from Amazon. I think I only paid like $9 for 5 fans. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0757LXKST/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My case fan was making noise as well.
Have you ever used a raspberry pi? If not, just make sure you get a really good power supply. Also, you will probably want one of the newer ones that have built in WiFi.
Amazon stuff:
Printed parts:
Anything directly touching the hotend is printed in PETG (on the Mini) so it (hopefully) doesn't melt under normal use. ABS should work too.
This Hackaday article has lots of good upgrades and was the best guide I could find. Although he has posted his version of the zero-offset adapter, he goes into all sorts of craziness with the fans and his clamping piece doesn't allow for the 2-in-1 fan thing I wanted to use.
And if anyone is interested in just sticking a 40mm fan on the original shroud, this is the adapter I had in the before pictures. File called "adapt_30mm_to_40mm_at_0_deg". I rescaled it a bit to make it shorter. I've actually gone and attached it to the blue clip-on fan piece that came with the hotend kit so I can use that if I want my big fan without part cooling.
I just did this swap today so I haven't done extensive testing yet... but that cube sure looks smooth and shiny, doesn't it?
Edit: Gold? You shouldn't have... Also minor update, all-metal heatbreak is on the way and I've got an idea for attaching the hotend to the adapter that I'm gonna try out. Nothing major, but hopefully it'll make things easier.
The support page for the Mini has all the links to mods. To get nice prints, I had to:
You may not have to do all these things, but my printer was a train wreck.
I also put in an E3D v6 hot end for $15 off Amazon and designed a double fan to cool it. You may not need that, but the extra cooling certainly helps with small parts.
I’ll upload some pics of print quality later. I have to head to work now.
Just print the shroud, and then add a 40mm fan of your choice. I'm partial to this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s7rUAb3HS4417 , as it's super quiet and powerful. You'll need re-wire the new fan in as well. I usually install a female socket right above where the wiring exits the "tower" to make future fan replacements easier.
Sure, no problem. I'll give you a bit more info as it may be relevant :)
That said, the biggest contributing factor to getting my prints to stick was the leveling. Once I nailed the leveling, I haven't had a failed print due to poor adhesion. Failures due to other things, sure. But not because of the glass :)
While the nozzle will wear, it's not significantly more than normal use. Hardened nozzles can help, but transmit heat less effectively. Replacement tips are literally about $1.50 each (BIQU 3D-M6 0.4mm Brass Extruder Nozzle Print Head for 1.75mm Filament 3D Printer (Pack of 5pcs) ) super easy to replace, and frequently cheaper/easier than cleaning.
Honestly this is the route I'd go.
I printed my own extruder, and it worked great for a while, but I think I set the infill too low. Next thing I know, I was having underextrusion again due to low spring tension. I haven't found an arm/extruder on Thingiverse yet that has adjustable extrusion, so I picked up one that did.
This is the one I used. I'm pretty happy with it, because it was really easy to adjust. Almost too easy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
works great but I frankly only replaced it once, after I needed to replace it a second time I left it off and have not noticed a difference. Without the insulation it is easier to keep clean and to get the nozzle to seat nicely when switching nozzles.
A few things typically break shortly after you start using one of these.. the biggest pain, and it's not even a printed part, is rewiring the bed so they don't rub on the hole going into the base.
Printed parts, I print an extra extruder arm and baseplate (part on top of the tower that feeds filament. This breaks second. I'll find the file I like to use, it's hard to find on thingiverse for some reason. WK7 has one, but it's not as tight and gives space for flexible filament to bend. Further you'll need, at least one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and send me a self addressed stamped envelope and 1 dollar and i'll send you one. IM for an address.
Height spacer for when you get fed up with a warped print bed and move to glass.
There are a few options for each one, if you want links I can provide you the ones I like. It's sometimes funner to see what's available and play with the options yourself.
My first roll was Smart Buy PLA. The Filament itself is mediocre, but I had a horrible time with it binding up on the roll because it was spooled poorly. This means that for long prints you have to constantly check to see if the roll is binding. Several times I came over to find my print head several layers above the last place it layed down any filament.
I told them about my issue and they refunded the money, letting me keep the roll of filament. So that was nice of them.
Since then I bought a roll of eSun natural PLA and I can definitely tell a difference. It is wound up much more cleanly on the spool and it just seems like it prints better. I'll probably stick with this brand in the future.
I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:
(Note the above designs are all three by USWaterRockets, who seems to have exceptional engineering skills, but I haven't installed them yet. Hopefully, this weekend and I'll post results)
Another one I'm considering next:
Here is the E3D-v6 adapter I currently have on the printer:
Note the above design is just a quick-and-dirty solution; the author even states this. It works and will get you what you need to get things going with the new head.
Other upgrades I've done:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the E3D-v6 printhead I bought and it's worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4V2QEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Disclaimer: I'm new to 3D printing. This is my first printer and the learning curve is steep. I may look back on this posting in a year and think "what an idiot I was doing <this>". Take my advice with a grain of salt, as I'm muddling through this whole thing. YMMV
This actually happens because the air gap between the raft and the print is too big, however, if you make it too small your raft will not come off. I recommend what most people say about a better build surface.
Personally, an 18$ glass build plate from amazon has worked wonders for me, better than any painters tape or buildtak.
I add a generous amount of hairspray and let it heat up to dry.
If you are interested, here is the link to the glass plate:
https://www.amazon.com/BKM-130mm-160mm-Borosilicate-Select/dp/B07BYJQH79/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_4?crid=26O8O6WR9UIGU&amp;keywords=bkm+130mm+x+160mm%2C+3mm+thick+borosilicate+glass+plate%2C+select+mini&amp;qid=1550989157&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=bkm&amp;sr=8-4-fkmrnull
OK, now that I've actually used my thermal pad, I love it! The print I'm currently running is adhering even better than normal, plus I didn't even use the clips! It's just tacky enough to hold the glass in place.
I had good luck with this glass with the corners pre-cut:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/
Don't forget to get this to help transfer the heat from the aluminum to the glass, also helps as a non-slip surface to help hold the glass in place:
https://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52/
I have a thermal pad sandwiched between the glass plate and the bed and it provides decent friction to keep the plate on but I also use two metal bag clips in the front and back to make sure the plate is pressed against the bed.
Glass Plate: BKM 130mm X 160mm, 3mm Thick Borosilicate Glass Plate, Select Mini
Alternatively, I've heard of people using glass they cut from a picture frame using a glass cutter
Thermal Pad: uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink
Not entirely necessary but supposedly this helps transfer heat more evenly and you get a huge sheet so you can get like 4 uses out of it if you optimize your cutting.
This happened to me after a while as well. The solution was to buy a piece of borosilicate glass like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BYJQH79/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_NF3CCbCG26B3V and clip it on with small binder clips. I even ended up putting a piece of buildtak on top of my glass because I really like buildtak but needed the perfect flatness of glass.
Picture of my glass bed
http://imgur.com/wBUUlH7
I just used binder clips until I can model a more permanent solution. I also left spaces in the corners so I can still adjust my bed leveling as needed.
I did not need to print any spacers at all, I was able to lower the bed enough where the head didnt crash into the bed.
sorry about the blurry quality, I am in the middle of a print. Now earlier the dimensions I showed you for the glass, that was for the mini select not the i3.
also for better heat transfer and less movement of the glass I did add a layer of silicone to the bed https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it is not necessary to have the silicone at all but for me I like the peace of mind of not having anything slip. (I tend to print a lot while I am sleeping or at work)
Doing a bit of research this is an article about glass beds specifically tailored to your printer
http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-basic-mods/adding-a-glass-bed/
That fan shroud is for a 40mm fan, the stock fan isn't 40mm. This is the fan I just ordered for that exact shroud Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yFYjzbKHXWEGP
I had this happen to me too and these worked out beautifully. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WE1A3D2/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_46?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=KZ034DRXZ93250TN11CA comes in a ten pack too which is great
Info | Details
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Amazon Product | BIQU 3D-M6 0.4mm Brass Extruder Nozzle Print Head for 1.75mm Filament 3D Printer (Pack of 5pcs)
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.
That's almost certainly it.
If you're switching to glass, I would recommend against using binder clips, and instead using some silicone pad, as the binder clips caused my glass plate to bow upward in the center. I used this one. This does require you to peel off the BuildTak and remove the adhesive beneath it. I got it to come off with some vaseline and about 30 minutes of scraping with the included scraper tool while the bed was heated.
After that I just cut out some little squares of the silicone and rested the glass on top of it. Works like a charm.
I ordered this fan to upgrade the 30mm hotend fan on my MP Select Mini v2 and also printed this fan shroud to mount it to. It runs flawless and all I had to do was cut off the plug that came on the fan, cut the wires from the stock fan on the printer, and solder the new wire to the cut wires on the printer. The new fan is a 3 wire plug, and all you need are the red and black wires. The yellow one is not used, just just leave it clipped.
I forgot to mention, use heat shrink tubes on the red and black wires, to cover up the raw soldered wires.
Thank you so much!
As for the hot end, if i just wanted to replace the 30mm fan with a Noctua 40mm fan using this, and i didn't want to splice wires, which ones of these two fans should i get? This one (5V) or this one?
I used pieces of Silicone Thermal Pad to "float" the glass on top of the bed. I bought the 0.5mm thick pad I linked to and it has worked but it really only touches the glass in a few spots. It's enough to keep it in place but a 1.0mm pad might make better contact and transfer heat better.
My Mini's heat bed seems to be lower in the centre so my glass mostly only makes contact at the corners, since yours is higher in the centre you might have an issue with the glass resting on the centre and rocking side to side. If you have this issue you might be able to use pieces of thinner silicone pad in the centre and pieces of a thicker pad in the corners.
Also you don't need to completely fill the gap between the heat bed and glass with thermal pad, doing so will make it difficult to remove the glass. Ideally you want it to stay in place while printing but pop off with a little force when lifted.
The fan is 40mm so you need an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NQLT0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494328531&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=noctua+40mm&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51kohMoXhcL&amp;ref=plSrch
And the adapter is here
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21112
All you have to do is snip the old fan off, remove it, connect the noctua fan to the adapter, the put the adapter where the old fan was. Then you just have to connect the wires.
I’ve been considering the z-axis stabilizer upgrade. But I’m not really having the issues that warrant it. Maybe I’m not pushing it speed wise enough.
Is the mk8 upgrade you are doing like this one here?
https://www.amazon.com/Iverntech-Printer-Extruder-Aluminum-RepRap/dp/B0774JZ9N5
I kinda like the idea of printing parts for it on itself. Or maybe for a second bigger printer at some point.
Super weird, I just clipped the cables for the old fan and put the noctua fan in with the included press joints and it worked.
This is the one I ordered: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/
Is the one you got different?
uxcell® 5 Pcs Silver Tone 10mm x 4mm x 4mm Sealed Premium Flanged Ball Bearing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9W20VU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BLjiybTXV7JFZ
Anycubic All Metal Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block DIY Kit for Reprap i3 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196B285I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nMjiybB65P122
I bought the two items above. You keep the current extruder gear, install the extruder minus the new gear and replace the bearing on the new extruder with one of the flanged ones from amazon. I think I installed flange down. It only works in one orientation. This is currently working great and much more sturdy and with better, adjustable pressure on the filament.
That is one but I would just buy one, they are pretty cheap.
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.cAzCbFNJHW4Z
I bought these ones. They are probably the same as what /u/jdgmntday listed but they ship to the US. They are a little bit longer than stock, so you have to re-level your bed; but they work great.
I got 2 of these and upgraded the chassis fan and hot end fan as well (you will need an adapter printed first to accommodate the larger size, It just fits when the X axis is in the home position).
They are fairly quiet, however somewhat still noticeable during operation. I really just wanted to upgrade them. A coworker recommended Noctua fans to me so I tried those.
For those looking for a glass bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Borosilicate glass has high heat tolerance and is resistant to rapid heat changes. The one posted here fits perfectly on MPSMv2
with the help of this awesome community, i got this one.... works like a champ..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I know that I had the arm on my extruder crack. I replaced it with this one and it's worked great ever since.
You can print without it. It's not too expensive to replace and it helps keep the temperature stable and use less power(leaving more for the bed heater). You'll probably want some polyimide/kapton tape too.
Sure thing. It ended up being cheaper for me on Amazon with Free shipping, but Newegg also has it.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAADY5U14594
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071W93333/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
> E3d
you mean something like this right????
https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO
Like this? It is $60+ on Amazon. E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SpqQCbDZASXYV
Now may be a good time to upgrade to a metal lever.
Anycubic All Metal Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block DIY Kit for Reprap i3 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196B285I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CQGhybY4DRJY8
The anycubic one looks like the way to go since this is only temporary. The pressure is still on the plastic so it'll eventually break. Can you point me to the instructions you used to replace it? Thanks
It takes a minute but I set up about 10 degrees high. Buy this for under the glass and it will stick to the bed and transfer the heat really well.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what I ended up using and seems to be working well:
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m4N2AbMH6HZM7
I use this thermal pad:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it seems to greatly help distribute the heat vs just glass clipped on bed
i think most revisions use an M6 coupler
useful to keep around, I used some to make dryboxes.
I’ve been using this one all year
Some folks use binder clips to keep their on, I prefer silicon thermal pads (see the frequently bought together section)
You’ll also want hairspray or glue sticks. I use a purpose-made product called magigoo that helps with adhesion at the start of the print, then pops right off once the build plate cools
Wiki is: http://mpselectmini.com/
Some items I bought from Amazon (don't buy the hot end pieces if you have a V2. They changed the hot end to an all metal one):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2DNKJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4UXQ42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
V
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACIFPYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Be careful doing this.
I think i ruined my feeder bearing doing this and had to replace it with this
Was not a simple procedure... but worth it in the end
I bought 10 for ~$7 on amazon JIUWU Pneumatic Air Straight Fitting 4mm thread M6 One touch hose Connector Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WE1A3D2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Ex8VNlMxPNHxG
That would work, you'll just have to be careful that you've still got enough length on the tube that you don't choke up the filament path when the X axis is all the way out.
Here's a link for replacement fittings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2
This is for extra PFTE tubing
https://www.amazon.com/Meters-Filament-3D-printer-Rostock/dp/B00THZKC8Y
Here's an aluminum version of the part that will work I took this info from the Wiki. You'll need to either take the bearing from your old extruder, or buy a 4x10x4mm bearing to use the original gear and not have to re-calibrate your extruder settings.
Noctua NF-A4x20 PWM premium-quality quiet 40mm fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071W93333/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dNOUAbSMZ146A
I bought these about a month ago and they're working out well. The only issue is they're slightly longer than the original one so you'll have to get a spacer or lower the bed a bit
$10 for not needing binder clips is a good deal to me but you do you boo boo.
If it won't lock in again then replace it. Someone on here suggested these to me: JIUWU Pneumatic Air Straight Fitting 4mm thread M6 One touch hose Connector Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WE1A3D2
They work and don't require any new printed parts, and prime shipping means they show up fast.
I had an issue with z-banding on my MPSM V2. I ended up buying a flexible z-coupler and installed it, completely fixed the issue. Link is below. It replaces the stock z-coupler which inherently has flaws due to the manufacturing process. You’ll have to find the coupler that fits your z-axis rod though before you buy.
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
there is a z-spacer on thingiverse, and a glass plate that fits on amazon
glass bed:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7dVRCbQQP1926
z-spacer:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029
I bought the glass off of amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm using hairspray on the glass.
>oes stick hella hard if you use a glue stick, but when I've used no glue and PLA, then let the print cool down, it slides off with no effort
https://www.amazon.com/Borosilicate-Polished-Corners-Monoprice-Select/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537446780&sr=8-1&keywords=mp+mini+select+glass+bed
&#x200B;
So something like that? Id prefer to do as little mods as possible but im noticing glass it defiantly needed as the prints are hard to get off.
For the glass bed I recommend getting a borosilicate glass. It’s that the old Pyrex is made of. Resist heat differences without shattering. Here’s the link of the one I got. 130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/ Corners Cut for 3D Print https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_tn7G8jRd96iU2
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492304643&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=noctua+40mm
Below is a copy paste of a comment I made the other day on the cause of this problem.
the shaft of the z motor is 3mm and the threaded rod is 4mm the coupler they use is 4mm on both sides so the z motor shaft is pushed to the side inside the coupler so the center axis of the motor is off .5mm from the center axis of the threaded rod. Imagine putting a drill bit in a drill off-center of the chuck, the bit would wobble around in a circle. The is what the threaded rod does and pushes on the gantry every revolution. You should have horizontal stripes in the sides of your prints that coincide with the threads of the threaded rod. Since this is my first printer, I thought those were layer lines. upon closer inspection I realized the layers are much thinner and they were shifting back and fourth. I replace the coupler with one of these and it fixed the issue. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018VE5YAW What you need to look for in a coupler is that it is 3mm on one side and 4mm on the other. Now that I have fixed that , I can now see the vertical lines in my prints that were masked by the horizontal lines. It is probably due to the smooth side of the y belt running on the plastic toothed pulleys.
BIQU 3D-M6 0.4mm Brass Extruder Nozzle Print Head for 1.75mm Filament 3D Printer (Pack of 5pcs) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01J3BB000/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HpYVCbAT77F1A
You took apart the hot end. I am assuming to remove to the nozzle for cleaning? There are two threaded holes in that picture. The larger one for the nozzle, and the smaller one has an L shaped bracket used to hold the thermistor in place. The thermistor goes into the unthreaded hole NEXT to the threaded hole. The thermistor wires look bent in that photo because the L shaped bracket squashes them.
Here's two links you will need to replace the insulation material.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVBLOQ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
reinstall the nozzle, tightly but not too tight. re-install the thermistor and L bracket. Then wrap everything with the insulation and use the 1/4" kapton tape to hold in insulation in place.
This is what I am using
I'm considering this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/?coliid=IUXV0TTQ913KW&amp;colid=RQNFRG4K2XJ7&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Amazon. Here is the links:
GO-3D PRINT 130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/Corners Cut for Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Print https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_-aUxDb3EP28M4
ZUPAYIPA 400mm x 210mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HGKR1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vbUxDb1VVQ706
I had the same problem. This fixed mine.
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x2IPDb932DYNE
I bought this one when mine broke awhile back.
For the money I think I'd rather have the metal one.
The blue-topped connector is a fitting that connects to a lock-washer-looking piece of garbage that sits just inside the extruder case. If you unscrew the top of the extruder case, you should see that the lock-washer-thing has shattered, which means the connector can't keep the tube held in place. On another extruder, you'd be able to swap out this shit plastic fastener with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
But this won't work with the stock extruder casing because there's no threading to screw it into. If you were able to drill your own threading or swap out the plastic bit that broke, you'd be all set. Otherwise, you need a new extruder case and you might as well swap out all the parts with cheap metal versions that won't break down.
Do you have any left over bits you can check for a film? Maybe the film was removed when the adhesive was applied, but it still seems odd that PET isn't sticking.
This is the PEI I bought
bed wayyyyyy to far from the nozzle. I got tired of dealing with that shit, so I got some borosilicate glass and use a glue stick...
You don't have to have anything between the glass and the bed, but I used this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52
I didn't use any clips to hold it on, just gravity--which won't work on your space station unless you are spinning your setup--but I did have one print that messed up and moved the bed a little. I probably should use clips, even though that wouldn't have saved my print. i.e. if a print is at the point where the nozzle is trying to push the part with a force that is able to overcome the coefficient of static friction you have probably already lost the print.