(Part 2) Best products from r/MTB

We found 82 comments on r/MTB discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 1,557 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

34. Super Bright Bike Light USB Rechargeable, Te-Rich 1200 Lumens Waterproof Road/Mountain Bicycle Headlight and LED Taillight Set with 4400 mAh Battery

    Features:
  • ✔FEAR NO DARKNESS: 1200 Lumen CREE XM-L2 LED Technology - This waterproof bike front light is bright enough to light up the trails and to see bumps on the road ahead when biking at night, it will definitely make your presence known on the road during evening rides or commutes
  • ✔EASY TO INSTALL: Setup is straight-forward, no tools needed, simply hand turn the hardware until it's tight and secure on your bike handlebar in a desired location, simply screw off the light from the mount so you can take it with you when leaving the bike locked up outside
  • ✔LONG RUNTIME: Powered by 5 volt 4400mhA rechargeable battery pack(included), the night riding light lasts approximately 4 hours on High(100% brightness), 8 hours on Medium(50% brightness), 12 hours on Low(25% brightness), Strobe(100% brightness)
  • ✔VERSATILE USES: Except being a 360 degree cycle rotating torch for a bicycle, the mini safety flashlight can also be mounted on the included headstrap mount as a headlamp for outdoor sports such as trail riding, camping, fishing, hiking, trekking, hunting, night flying, sailing, caving, commuting and etc
  • ✔UNIVERSAL FITMENT: The Te-Rich Bicycle headlamp fits tubes or handlebars up to 28 mm in diameter, compatible with handlebar of TREK, SALSA, JAMIS, SPECIALIZED, GIANT, DIAMONDBACK, SCHWINN, CANNONDALE, GT, SCOTT, MONGOOSE and more
Super Bright Bike Light USB Rechargeable, Te-Rich 1200 Lumens Waterproof Road/Mountain Bicycle Headlight and LED Taillight Set with 4400 mAh Battery
▼ Read Reddit mentions

Top comments mentioning products on r/MTB:

u/Actually_i_am_5 · 2 pointsr/MTB

One Up composite pedals are better than the RaceFace Chesters for the same price IMHO ($50). bigger platform and same everything else. I feel like the profile is slimmer too but am too lazy to research it:

https://www.amazon.com/OneUp-Components-Composite-Pedals/dp/B074Q41G3Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537468721&sr=8-3&keywords=oneup+composite+pedals

as for shoes - until I bought 5.10 free riders I was wearing Vans and doing OK with them. Any skate shoe with a super flat and stable sole will be better than any running shoe as running shoes will naturally have a curved sole and will bounce off your pedals more often. Ideally you want a flat stable platform AND durable yet sticky rubber sole (Stealth Rubber rocks and can also be found on some Adidas trail shoes). I highly recommend the 5.10 free riders if you are buying shoes.

u/blindstuff · 4 pointsr/MTB

I never liked clipless so my opinion is biased, someone else from the clipless camp can give you a counter-argument, but, I would stick to flats, get good flats and decent shoes.

Pedals are cheap, shoes are not; since they're the main contact point to your bike, its worth the investment. Even if you change bike they'll transfer over.

Nylon pedals are nice, you don't need metal. Nukeproof Electron EVO's are my favorite platform pedal, followed very closely by the Raceface Chester; the difference between both is barely noticable imo, i just give a slight advantage to the Electrons. Either pick will work great.

As for shoes, there are many good options, the Fiveten Freerider seems to be a common favorite, I personally use the bit bulkier Impact VXi, but many people find them too bulky. In any case, you're looking for a flat, stiff sole with sticky rubber.

u/dunger · 1 pointr/MTB

The brakes are probably pre bled. You will probably have to cut the cables to proper length though. If you are careful it can be done without needing a bleed, but its a good idea to have a bleed kit. If you ride often, you will probably want to bleed every 3 to 6 months anyways.

Also, you will want some good grease. This park tools stuff is good and can be used for headset and bb.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-Polylube-Grease/dp/B000NORVHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466124475&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tools+grease

Bleed kit like this would get you started if you have Shimano brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Bleed-Kit-Mineral/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466124626&sr=8-2&keywords=shimano+bleed+kit

Edit: also, I noticed your comment below about making a headset press from a threaded rod and some washers. I do this. Used it to press in a couple headsets, and a press fit bottom bracket. Worked great and costs like $10.

u/adam_f_1984 · 2 pointsr/MTB

Throwing in my 2 cents. Everyone has their opinion on what is better so this should be taken as what I have learned with trial and error.

​

I use SPD clips with Shimano PD-M647. The outer cage acts as a flat so that I can alternate if needed (I rarely use them now). This was especially good for starting out. The resistance can be adjusted so you get used to clipping out, adding resistance as needed.

​

Buy a shoe with a rigid sole, I started with a pair of specialized tahoe and it had so much flex that every time I tried to unclip, my foot would move but not the shoe, resulting in a fall. I since switched to Shimano ME2 and they're way better. I'm sure there are better shoes out there. but these work well for me.

​

There are 2 types of SPD cleats, one way (SM-MH51) and multi-directional (SM-MH56). I would advise to use the multi-directional as it is easier to get the hang of.

​

Unclip early before you stop, most falling happens mostly at slow speeds. For me its mostly during a climb or trying to get over a rock where I lose speed or the wheel slips, as long as you're moving it's tougher to fall, because physics.

​

I would say that if you like to send it over jumps and you bail a lot, you may not want to use clipless. There's a reason people use flats, and that's one of them. Small jumps aren't a problem for me but I'm not doing transfers or big stuff.

​

There's a learning curve to going clipless. The more you do it, the more it becomes second nature. Good luck!

u/andrewcooke · 3 pointsr/MTB

please find out how to treat severe bleeding without using a tourniquet - they're a last resort.

when i started worrying about first aid i found this awesome book. honestly, it's amazing. it explains what to do in very clear terms, using simple, basic principles (so you don't have to remember particular solutions for each problem). and it does so in an honest way (tells you when you're pretty much fucked) that's even amusing at times.

i'd really recommend reading that book.

ps one of the things it says is that commerical "medical kits" are not that great - better to make your own with a few basics (and it describes what you need for various levels of activity).

u/Unusual_Steak · 3 pointsr/MTB

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/MTB

Hm. I wouldnt suggest leaving your bikes unattended on the rack for too long but the hitch pin idea seems to be easiest. Just make SURE you have things locked up. Or perhaps weld a D ring to the rack to slide a U bolt lock trough. I have a locking hitch pin and I think it was less than $20 which keeps the rack safe.

Also, I would suggest this over the Saris. Dont get me wrong, the Saris is a nice rack, but at that price they are all pretty similar. This one is $100 bucks cheaper which leaves you room for a few locks.

http://www.amazon.com/Swagman-Cross-Country-2-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B0001VO1YY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373762443&sr=8-1&keywords=swagman+bike+rack


I use that rack and its stable enough for highway trips cheap enough to get abused. Seems to work well for my mostly weekend mountain biking trips.

u/lol_alex · 5 pointsr/MTB

The short answer is: It depends.

Any rim can be sealed off at the spoke holes with rim tape if you clean it thoroughly and use the right width of tape.

The tricky part is how well the tire will seat at the bead. Stan's Rims and Spank are two rim manufacturers that I know take extra care with this area (and I think simply use a slightly larger diameter at this critical point) so that tires will seal well without much latex milk being needed to help.

You can do a simple test on the cheap. Buy the 3M equivalent of Stan's expensive rim tape like this one and buy or borrow a tubeless valve like this one. Put your existing tire on without a tube, using just a little bit of soapy water. If it pops in and inflates, you're good to go.

Maybe someone has experience with your rim type. I swear by tubeless, and so far have tried on Stan's Flow and FlowEX, Spank Spike 35 and Oozy Trail 345, and a couple of sets of made in China carbon rims, and it has always worked well.

The much bigger issue IMO is the type of tire. Schwalbe was the company that started with the "tubeless ready" slogan, which I guess involves having a little more rubber on the bead to help with sealing, Conti used to be stupidly difficult but have also improved especially with the Apex sidewall, Maxxis always worked well. These are the ones I have personally tried.

u/tax393 · 2 pointsr/MTB

I've got the Recon Silver TK, but replaced the damper with the Motion Controll of the Argyle.
Works great for me, but the Motion Controll is a bit larger than the original damper, so you can't use about 10mm.
But you can extend the travell to 20 mm by taking out the spacer (page 15)
https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/BtRI-fZQaQfTJijnIsbNEA04QJAQL0ilYpvL2wZnIgQ/mtime:1372788151/sites/default/files/techdocs/2011-recon-silver-technical-manual.pdf

Performance is like the Reba, a bit heavier, therefore a lot cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLDVXW/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_X2vpzbEQFKKZ8

This one should work too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLDVXW/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_X2vpzbEQFKKZ8

u/ZDMW · 6 pointsr/MTB

I have the Tekton 1/4in 20-200 in/lb wrench, I have not had any issues with it. I also have the 10-150ft/lb wrench, but that's pretty much just for the car.

It's not a premium tool, but it works well, and I find them to be a good value for the price. I paid $30 for the torque wrench.

Also remember when you store torque wrenches to set them to 0. That way you remove the load from the ratchet mechanism while it sits around.

I did break one of their box wrenches before, it was 100% my fault. They sent me a new one for free no questions asked.

u/jdhawk · 7 pointsr/MTB

http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Multi-Bicycle-17-Function/dp/B002VG40AM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1312206186&sr=8-1


I have literally stood on mine to break a rusty bolt free, and its still perfect. Great little lightweight tools.

u/Kimington · 1 pointr/MTB

the link you provided is to the Jaco website for $27.95 with free shipping which isn't bad, but you can get them on amazon for $22.90 with free 2 day shipping with prime. Here is the 60psi and 160psi amazon links.

u/Toobuckchuk · 1 pointr/MTB

Almost any rim/tire combo can be made tubeless. Save some money and buy the tape on it's own: http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-Strapping-Tape-8896/dp/B00QVIBIMO
You just need valves and sealant now.

If that doesn't work, go the sliced 20" tube route. Either should work fine, the tape is a more elegant solution.

u/peters1023 · 1 pointr/MTB

Just false, safety glasses come in quite a variety.

Edit: I'm riding with hardware store safety glasses in Japan... 95% humidity enough?

Literally hundreds of options

Dewalt DPG55-11C Clear Anti-Fog Protective Safety Glasses with Dual-Injected Rubber Frame and Temples https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RKS07I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i.oaBb1SBFBM2

u/_ajp · 8 pointsr/MTB

Yes, exactly. Like any sport such as tennis, or any hobby for example where you feel connected to the device. It's called "flow" and a great book on the subject is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Flow-Psychology-Experience-Perennial-Classics/dp/0061339202/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1540489702&sr=8-2

u/justtocomplain1 · 0 pointsr/MTB

I have Shimanos, but I think the process is similar the fluid is just different. Here's the kit I bought:

Shimano Brake Bleed Kit with Mineral Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DIJUBb8V4W6FG

Having the syringe was super helpful and I'm not sure that was included with the factory kit

u/Elgand · 3 pointsr/MTB

In southern WI there are just those weeks where it is unsafe. Any time the actual temperature for the day is below 0 I opt to ride in doors and drive to work.

Above 0 having a good pair of winter biking shoes and full equipment makes it completely doable, though you will be slower.

The biggest issue most people face is fogging glasses. I picked up some anti fog construction glasses that work well, though I bought multiple pairs because after 10-15 rides and constantly wiping them the anti-fog is basically gone.

Some people have had luck with Mountain Climbing glasses, but I just can't justify $200-$300 on a pair of glasses that may work.

OP, I don't suggest biking in everything but if it is a nice 20-30 degree day get some gear and enjoy the outdoors.

Indoor trainer I bought - Trainer

Anti fog glasses - Glasses

Bike Shoes - Shoes

u/therealw00zy · 2 pointsr/MTB

cheap amazon lights can be plenty bright enough to ride with, there are 3 caveats

  1. The batteries are cheaper/reused/poorly constructed, there is a potential fire hazard with all batteries, it's probably higher with cheaper ones and especially if they get wet at some point. Recommend charging when you're close by and have a fire extinguisher on hand (you should anyway).

  2. The lights are cheap, how much do you trust them? You're going out in the woods, have a backup plan for getting home if your light dies. keep an extra light that you don't use in your bag, if your light fails/gets damaged it can be a long dark walk back to the car. It's probably a good idea to have a backup light even with expensive lights.

  3. Cheap lights don't have great optics, you will have a very bright spotlight and outside of that it will be fairly dark, this is easier to handle with a helmet mounted light than a handlebar mounted light. You will still probably lose the trail occasionally, I'd stick to trail systems that you know well when night riding and make sure you have GPS maps in case you get off the trail and can't find it again (cell phone with mtbproject/trailforks is fine).

    I have this as my main light and helmet mounted, I chose it because it claims water proof and the batteries are in a hard plastic case, lots of the cheap lights put the batteries in cloth cases which worries me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG7677G/
    I keep this flashlight and a couple extra 18650 cells in my pack as a backup https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD6VF4G
u/Hemlohk · 3 pointsr/MTB

What kind of pedals do you have installed? I wear my running shoes too and went from stock plastic pedals to very grippy pedals like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018J1J7QE/ref=twister_B01EONZSAA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. The change in sticking to the pedals has made a world of difference when on the trail and skills like bunny hops etc. (I'm planning on updating my shoes too in the future, but I'm not in a rush since I feel comfortable on the new pedals.)

u/Kevlar3D · 1 pointr/MTB

I'm gonna take some flak for this but I bought three of these guys ($20x3=$60) 1200 lumen is probably overrated a bit but not by too much. Maybe ~900:
http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4


And then I bought one wide angle lens.
http://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-Gemini-Lights-Headlight-Includes/dp/B004WLCLQY

I am into my lights for $70ish bucks and have one unfocused beam, one trail sized focused beam and a spare light & battery. Nothing worse than getting stuck in the middle nowhere - in the dark.

So yeah, I took the cheap route. The bike specific brands do offer a stronger light but my light output matches or beats all of my riding buddies with brand name lights.

Worst thing I can say about the setup is that they are bound to the bars with a rubber strap. You have to tighten it down pretty well or it can slip on the bar. I didn't like helmet mounted because I blind my friends by looking at them when talking. So yeah probably not the most popular post but they work and they work well. They've lasted about 3 years already and no issues. One word of advice, some of the newer LEDs use a different battery connector so order yours at the same time so all of your lights & batteries are interchangeable.



u/nord1899 · 2 pointsr/MTB

My setup.


Light, get 2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJZ015Y

Kit for helmet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QOVA00

Wide angle lens: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WLCLQY

Put one on your helmet. Put the wide angle lens one on your bars, means when you turn it has less effect on what you can see.

I've had no problem with battery life, but my night rides do tend to be a bit shorter, in the 90 minute range. Use half strength during the climb, full strength on the down.

u/Dartht33bagger · 1 pointr/MTB

I bought a Swagman XC last season to use a bike rack and I haven't had any issues so far. All of the weight of the bike is still on the wheels. I just make sure the frame is nice and clean where the frame holder comes into contact with it.

u/c0nsumer · 1 pointr/MTB

I've had good luck with these in cold weather: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADHU3ZC/

I either wear them over bib shorts, knickers, or full tights depending on weather. I've ridden down to 0F (in daylight) in them. Just be sure to measure yourself, the size is weird. I bought XXL for me, and wear a Large in Voler bib shorts.

u/T1978_sach · 3 pointsr/MTB

This is what I do. I wear something like this but there are tons of options like these or these. I wear my "nice" sunglasses off my bike and then I don't have to worry about breaking/scratching anything.

u/bhay350 · 1 pointr/MTB

I got the bleed kit from this guy, and it's been fine with keeping my XTs running smooth. Just start doing some YouTube research, like all of us other "YouTube mechanics" 😁

Shimano Brake Bleed Kit with Mineral Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KOz4Ab289WVJ3

u/yur_mom · 2 pointsr/MTB

That is a loaded question. It depends on the parts you will be torquing since it is highly unlikely you will find one torque wrench that covers all ranges. I personally have a bunch and my favorite brand is the Wera 1-25nm, but they are expensive. I would probably just get the this for lower torque values since it does 2-24nm https://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1485446361&sr=1-12&keywords=torque+wrench


and then if you want to do cranks and cassettes you may need a larger one.

u/helivatefilms · 1 pointr/MTB

I just upgraded from Chester to OneUp composite. Much better grip, roughly same price. Maybe a little more depending where you get them.

There are also a knock off brand called rock bro’s on amazon that mimic both Chester and one up for cheap, the one up version from them didn’t stick quite as well so I’m sticking with OneUp Components. But if your looking for cheap go with rock bro’s and you’ll be stoked still.


OneUp Components Composite Pedals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Q41G3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bgzDDbQWBWSB8


ROCK BROS Mountain Bike Pedals... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PD9Y5D6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/ChristophColombo · 3 pointsr/MTB

That sucks. I'd recommend getting a multitool like this with several sizes of hex wrench, a T25 Torx bit, a couple screwdrivers, and a chain tool. You can take apart 90% of your bike with it and it's especially useful for minor trailside repairs.

u/turktheripper · 1 pointr/MTB

My current favorite:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

For higher torque values, you'll need to go up to the 3/8" drive version.

u/tire-traveller · 1 pointr/MTB

Super Bright Bike Light USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG7677G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the one I use along with a headlight on my helmet. It is so bright I run it on low power.

u/Incursus · 1 pointr/MTB

The Recon Silver would be a great fork for this bike. You can even toss in a new damper for even more control.

http://www.amazon.com/RockShox-MotionControl-damper-07-09-Argyle/dp/B003RLDVXW

u/Trisomic · 7 pointsr/MTB

I've used a few different multitools, but I recently picked up THIS and it has been my favorite by a long shot.

u/profetic · 3 pointsr/MTB

I got a second pair off of Amazon for $33. They're every bit as comfortable as the $75 ZOIC ones I also have from my LBS

Edit: link ARSUXEO Outdoor Sports MTB Cycling Shorts Breathable Blue Size Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072555CK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uAY5AbM215ET8

u/abdiel92 · 1 pointr/MTB

Give it a nice wash, lube up the chain, clean the cogs, inflate your tires, and START RIDING!

I just told someone else on a different post about these new bike tire gauges made by JACO and they are freaking amazing. They work for both presta and schrader valve stems. They cost a bit more than other cheap, flimsy gauges online but the lifetime warranty & certified accuracy make it worth it IMO.

They are currently selling a 60 PSI bike gauge and 160 PSI bike gauge depending on the pressure you ride at. I got the 60 PSI model for my tubeless tires that I ride at 25-30psi. Nothing but good things to say about that company as I currently own some of their automotive products as well.

u/agaskell · 2 pointsr/MTB

I bought the same bike a few months ago - I love it! I'm also pretty new and after a few months went clipless. I went with these pedals and these cleats. The nice thing about this combo is that whenever I have an "oh shit" moment I'm able to unclip without thinking about it. I haven't been outside of my state (MN) for MTB but we have an IMBA model trail and quite a few trails in the twin city area.

With snow coming to your state maybe eye up a Pugsley or Mukluk - I'm going to head out for my first snow ride today!

u/blip01 · 2 pointsr/MTB

I got one of these recently. So far so good. I use it with two 29" full sus bikes.

You can add a small padlock through each arm, but you'd probably be better off with a thick cable around the bikes and hitch.

https://www.amazon.com/Swagman-Cross-Country-2-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B0001VO1YY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503450943&sr=8-1&keywords=swagman+xc2

u/toomuchdolphin · 3 pointsr/MTB

> 15 nm

ah, bummer, that's right in the range where small cheap ones are too small and the large ones are too large.

the only decent, but relatively cheap one i could find was a tekton one, which i use now

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

that said, if you know what 15nm feels like, you could probably get close enough and be fine- seat bolt specs are a lot tigher than most other bolts on a bike

u/teholbugg · 2 pointsr/MTB

lube for your chain? this stuff is under $8 shipped

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-N-Roll-Gold-Chain-Lube-4oz/dp/B000QU8CGI/

grease for most other parts of your bike? this stuff is $6.25, but if you have more time than money, look into getting some marine grease from a sailing store- it's supposed to be the same price for like 5 times as much

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-Polylube-Grease/dp/B000NORVHI/

u/PelloScrambas · 11 pointsr/MTB

Like everyone said, you'll fall over a bit, but stick with it. A few things to keep in mind...

  • Keep the tension as loose as possible; tighten when you feel more comfortable
  • If you're using SPDs, you might want to swap out the cleats that came with the pedals with multidirectional cleats, which allow you to unclip using several different foot motions
  • Put a little lube on the pedal. Someone suggested this to me when my wife was learning and it made a big difference.
u/krispzz · 1 pointr/MTB

I have this $100 hitch-mount two bike carrier and I like it, especially for the price. I use a short piece of accessory cord (i.e. rope) to tie down the back tire to the tray because of the steep top tube angle on my FS bike, but if you have a flat top tube that probably isn't necessary. Only complaint is that the ball bearing in the detent pins rusts a bit if you leave it on the car long term. Now that I'm not taking my bike to work due to the time change I just leave the whole assembly in my trunk because it folds up.

https://www.amazon.com/Swagman-Cross-Country-2-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B0001VO1YY/

u/KISSOLOGY · 1 pointr/MTB

Looking at Flat pedals considering a few different models and need advice on which one is the best.

SHIMANO SAINT

CRANK BROTHERS 50/50

CHESTER PLATFORM


XPEDO SPRY

Bonmixc Mountain Bike Pedals

Origin8 Ultim8 Slimline Platform Pedals

The last two are a bit less expensive but they look decent. I am aware that typically you get what you pay for. I've seen the Shimano Saint in store and the CrankBro in store. Xpedo SPRY seems to have reviews too

u/Stucardo · 3 pointsr/MTB

I have this one and it's good so far. I think the nashbat wrench is probably decent quality too

VENZO Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00811WQT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hD4gAb17GQC54

u/singelingtracks · 8 pointsr/MTB

https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2016_Honda_CR-Z.htm

100 for a hitch, says it fits on the car.

https://www.amazon.com/Swagman-Cross-Country-2-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B0001VO1YY/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1517795853&sr=1-3&keywords=1-1%2F4+Inch+Hitch+bike+rack

132 for a bike rack. easily found used for under 100 into the 50 range.

cost a lot more to repaint the rear end when its scratched up then to do it right the first time.

u/wa11yba11s · 3 pointsr/MTB

I generally use a really expensive digital one I bought for engine builds but I also use this guy for stuff I'm not super worried about tolerance on. I use it mostly to torque the bolts on my hunting rifles
TEKTON 24320 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb./2.26-22.6 Nm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4YHIyb8JJV191

u/linux_vegan · 3 pointsr/MTB

People may frown upon this, but you can get knockoff Raceface Chester's on Amazon. I haven't had any issues with them.

FOOKER MTB Bike Pedal Nylon 3 Bearing Composite 9/30 Mountain Bike Pedals High-Strength Non-Slip Bicycle Pedals Surface for Road BMX MTB Fixie Bikesflat Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4Z2QDbWFSG3KD

Real Chester's aren't expensive either. RaceFace Chester Pedal Black, One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018J1J7QE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e12QDbWQHCQ78

u/InsaneInTheDrain · 1 pointr/MTB

Kona Wah-Wahs

RaceFace Chesters

One-Up Composites

All ~$50 or less, you won't be disappointed with any of them

u/SgtBaxter · 1 pointr/MTB

Having never ridden clipless I'd recommend to do yourself a favor and buy a set of the SH-56 multi-release cleats.

The normal cleats require you to twist your foot outwards. The multi-release will pop out if you twist slightly and roll the ankle over a little, but you can still pull up just fine so you get the power benefits of clipless.

With the right clip tension, they're almost exactly like riding flats in that they'll pop right out in any crash, or you can unstick your foot really quick to dab it down on a sharp turn.

After you get proficient on the pedals you can go to the regular cleats, although personally I don't have any issues popping out accidentally.

u/aedrin · 2 pointsr/MTB

I purchased this kit and have been really pleased with it:

http://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8

Assembled a carbon mountain bike with it and have had no problems. It's worth having quality tools.

u/hirschmj · 2 pointsr/MTB

Anyone looking to start - imports from China have way lowered the barrier for entry. If you can find a group online that goes, do that or bring a friend, you don't want to get stuck out there without a buddy.

There's a lot of garbage out there too, I've tried several of the imports and found the batteries sorely lacking or the connectors shitty. I can vouch for this one. For bonus points, get this wide angle lens and put it on your bars, plus a normal one on your helmet so you can see where you're looking. If you can only have one, try to find a way to mount it to your helmet.

u/Varaxis · 1 pointr/MTB

Have to find the one specifically for your style of slider/stanchion inner diameter. I believe this is the one:

https://www.amazon.com/RockShox-MotionControl-damper-07-09-Argyle/dp/B003RLDVXW

u/imnu · 1 pointr/MTB

I have this torque wrench:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL2EG

What do I need so I can put hex bits and such on there?

u/drewts86 · 3 pointsr/MTB

If you go with Shimano’s SPD I suggest getting the multi-release cleats. SPD pedals come with side-release cleats which I found much less intuitive and harder to get out of in clutch situations. I can get my foot down on the multis nearly as fast as flats.

u/k3nnyd · 2 pointsr/MTB

http://amzn.com/B004WLCLQY

You can see customer shots of the light pattern there too.

u/Vpr99 · 3 pointsr/MTB

No, you just have to use the Shimano Cleats which will attach to any bike shoe that has the 2-hole mounting system, which 99% of mountain shoes do.

Most pedals (my XT did, but I'm not sure about the M530) came with cleats, so you don't have to worry about that.

u/SourCream18 · 7 pointsr/MTB

https://www.amazon.com/Swagman-Cross-Country-2-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B0001VO1YY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543187400&sr=8-3&keywords=swagman+bike+rack

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This will do the trick if you are looking to get something cheap yet functional. I have driven about 1,500 miles with 2 bikes on it and have had no issues! The only upgrade I had to get was a hitch tighter because the rack bounced around a little bit.