Best products from r/Machinists

We found 42 comments on r/Machinists discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 296 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/Machinists:

u/TheShandyMan · 5 pointsr/Machinists

> It may all be junk

If it works, and you don't have something better, then it's good enough. You don't need name brand anything, particularly when you're starting out. If you find something isn't up to snuff, replace it when you actually need to.

> A bunch of the tooling (mostly the taps) have some rust

If it's just surface rust then don't worry about it too much. If it doesn't rub off by hand, don't go making matters worse by trying to "polish" it with anything aggressive. Just add a light coating of a thin oil to stop it from rusting more. Taps, drills and the like are considered consumables. Properly cared for they can certainly last for years but if you are using them, eventually you'll need to replace them.

> Some end mills are obviously chipped, but otherwise I'm not sure how to tell which are sharp vs. not. Is it as easy as "this cutting edge looks dull"?

Pretty much yeah; although you don't usually need "razor" sharp; and in fact some materials cut better with a slightly dulled edge (brass comes to mind). Don't worry too much about discoloration from heat either unless it's real bad. A light tan on HSS tooling that's been put to use isn't a big deal but if its closer to dark brown / blueish / purply (and you're positive it's not coated or have carbide) then it's probably shot.

> Where do people get raw stock?

Depends on the project. If Its something that needs to look pretty I'll get fresh material from somewhere. If it's just a few pieces I might go online (Metals Depot usually isn't bad on pricing but it depends on what you can get locally). If I need a lot (weight wise) I'll call up some of the local fab shops and see if they have drops or will let me add onto an order of theirs for a discount.

If it's something that looks don't matter (for myself, structural etc) I'll troll the local metal salvage yard. Price per pound they can't be beat and you can get some crazy stuff you wouldn't otherwise be able. The downside is it's a lot of work and very inconsistent. When I make the trip out I tend to grab things I don't actively need but think I might at some point (case in point, I had about 150lbs of 2" plate sitting in my pile for almost 2 years before I found a use for it, but had I needed to buy it "new" it would have been prohibitively expensive).

> What kind of material should I start with.

Whatever is cheap that gets you comfortable with the equipment. Unless you're working on a project that calls for the "good" stuff, the cheapest simple mild steels and aluminum will be your bread and butter. Brass is also very easy to work with but tends to be more expensive (local market dependent of course). You could also look into various machining plastics (Delrin, hdpe, uhmwpe ec) but not having bought any myself I don't know how those run price wise.

Tool steels (O1, A2, S1 yadda yadda) are nice in that you can make your own tooling with it, but unless you ALSO happen to have a heat-treating oven that can reach and hold +/- 1800F you're having to farm out the heat treat to another shop; and sadly it's usually more cost effective (both time and money) to buy what you need; unless you love the "I made it" aspect.

Before you get too heavily invested materials wise you need to research appropriate feeds and speeds for your tooling and material. There is a decent amount of "wiggle" in what you should be running at, almost an art in knowing how to adjust for your exact piece of material and tools but it's a critical bit of knowledge if you expect to get a decent quality finish without a lot of manual sanding and polishing.

> anything else critical that I'm missing

I didn't see an indicol (offbrand is fine so long as it fits your gear) in your pictures but I could have missed it. You'll need an appropriate indicator as well. You'll need those to accurately tram your head in (making sure it's perpindicular to your table) as well as indicating your vises in (parallel to your tables axis). You can work around it, and indicate other ways but you'll (eventually) need the indicators anyways and the indicols themselves are useful in other ways.

u/Zundfolge-1432 · 1 pointr/Machinists

I own a Craftex CX-601, which is a very similar machine to the one you've decided on.

On the vice, I would recommend either buying a vice that someone else owns and can confirm is good...or only buy one you can see in person. I bought a 5 inch Taiwanese vice, and I'm pretty disappointed with the quality of it. It was on-sale, and I figured it would "do fine" while I looked for a Kurt or other super nice unit on Craigslist. Turns out it does "do fine", but the moveable jaw was shimmed instead of machined square. Not good. On my table a 5in vice is a good size, but I probably could have gone with a six. Consider upsizing yours to a 5in vice.

It's worth looking to see if you have any tool shops nearby that carry milling machines, even ones of a different brand. Armed with your machine's measurements you can find a "similar" sized bed on a floor model and see what a 4, 5 and 6in vice will look like. That's what I did before ordering both my mill and my vice size.

All the clamping kits are basically the exact same in the box, probably from the same company. Shop around, you can save even more money:
http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Slot-CLAMP-CLAMPING/dp/B007DMLBRE?ie=UTF8&keywords=clamping%20kit%201%2F2%20t-slot&qid=1458758346&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6

http://www.harborfreight.com/58-piece-combination-step-block-and-clamp-set-3-8-eighth-inch-16-nc-studs-1-2-half-inch-clamps-5952.html

I own that end-mill set, very happy with it.

You have two edge finders listed, a Mitutoyo edge finder and a Fowler edge and centre finder. You only need the one combo unit, and this Mitutoyo is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-050103-Center-Finder-Diameter/dp/B002SG7PPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458758586&sr=8-1&keywords=edge+and+center+finder

You are missing a holder for your horizontal dial indicator, which I'm presuming you're ordering for squaring up your head to the table, and your vice to the table. The magnetic base you have is great for checking run out of the spindle, and movement of the work, but not ideal for squaring up the head. I started with a clamp like this:
http://www.amazon.com/HHIP-4401-0401-Universal-Indicator-Holder/dp/B01BHHY92E?ie=UTF8&keywords=universal%20indicator%20holder&qid=1458759060&ref_=sr_1_21&sr=8-21
Which I wasn't too happy with. It works, but it's pretty easy to upset the clamp alignment and you have to start over. I have since ordered this unit: https://www.accusizetools.com/egaa-z986-zero-set/ but haven't had a need to re-square my head or vice yet. Doesn't look like it's available on Amazon though.

I notice the mill you're looking at has the option to add the X-axis power feed for $299. If you can stretch the budget, definitely go for it. I figured I would "add one later" and even though I still plan on doing so, man am I cranking away on that handle a whole lot.

It's not cheap, but I find this set of drill bits to be quite handy: http://www.amazon.com/Woodtek-928828-Boring-Machinist-Titanium/dp/B008RE2CSY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1458759539&sr=8-6&keywords=115pc+drill+bit+set

u/ProbablyNotSeneca · 4 pointsr/Machinists

I’m using Kool Mist for just about everything and I’ve been happy with it. It’s cheap, works well and doesn’t leave a huge mess. If I could run a proper flood coolant system I would, but due to being an open machine I can’t.

The bath is super easy, it’s just a bit more involved to set up. If I had an enclosed machine, I’d be inclined to run it with flood coolant every time, but I’d be worried about that getting into the machine. Getting that powder on your ways is fucking terrible and can destroy a machine pretty quickly if you’re not cleaning everything after each time you cut CF. I think the extra time for setup is worth it, but I’m not running production or having to hold super tight tolerances in most cases.

I’ve mainly been doing 3mm CF using 1/8” end mills. I’m pretty sure I’m using what you’re describing. I get the coated carbide diamond pattern end mills from Amazon. (HQMaster 10Pcs CNC Rotary Burrs Set End Mill Engraving Bits PCB Milling Bits 1/8'' Shank Titanium Coated Tungsten Steel Corn Milling Cutter Tool for SMT Mold Plastic Fiber Wood Carbon Insulation Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3Z5FJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G7YTCbMCMRXQ1). They’re incredibly cheap, last pretty long and give a surprisingly good finish. It doesn’t feel right that they work so well.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ppmfdrz532wbtu4/Photo%20Apr%2017%2C%204%2054%2020%20AM.jpg?dl=0

Here’s the part I cut last night. I’m very happy with those end mills. Especially considering I was using a 400 watt spindle slapped onto the Fryer’s head ahah.

u/curiouspj · 4 pointsr/Machinists

Another vote for bestest indicators

I used mitutoyo, interrapid, and bestest. Bestest is truly the best. Good repeatable action and easy to rotate bezel.

I have a mitutoyo Trutest .0005 .06 range and my only gripe would be the bezel. O-ring sealed makes it easy to replace and cheaper but rotating it is more stiff than the metal bezels of even Chinese brands.

Interrapid's swivel stem is neat but I don't care for it. .06 thou range seems to be something special but I haven't found it particularly special.

-------


Standard purchase along side an indicator would be..

MightyMag
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00095V0NC

And the flex arm I mentioned in an earlier post.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019LRULQA

u/graffiti81 · 8 pointsr/Machinists

I'm using Precision Machining Technology at school right now. Covers pretty much everything, from basic hand tools right up to programing G-code. You can get a second hand copy pretty cheap.

u/comfortably_pug · 3 pointsr/Machinists

i feel like i am being trolled by this post but i'll give you the benefit of the doubt

  • you are supposed to put the drills directly in the collets. you're looking for jobber and stub twist drills. good quality hss is ridiculously cheap, don't fuck around with the chinesium from home depot.
  • er11 collets are also super cheap
  • 2000 rpm is going to be fine for drilling most plastics up to about 1" dia, and most aluminums up to about 3/4" dia, and graphite up to about 11/32" dia
  • most of your inevitable questions can be answered in the machinery's handbook pocket companion


    finally, CONCENTRICITY IS IMPORTANT TO ACCURATE HOLE SIZES. those garbage chucks you bought from amazon are meant for hand drills and will probably have 5-20 thou runout, which is a big deal if you need your hole to be 125 thou.

    the more things you have between the tool that's going to cut the workpiece and the spindle, the more inaccuracy you're going to have.

    if you cheap out on everything (where not cheaping out is still cheap), don't come back here asking why all your holes are fucked up.
u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/Machinists

I recommend Machine Shop Practice Vol. 1 & 2 to get a sense of the machinist's trade. You will have no idea what half the stuff in the book means until you've spent a few months on a conventional lathe or mill, but the reference will be extremely helpful as you progress. There's next to nothing about CNC work in there, unfortunately, but it's one of the best general references I know for this work.

u/thach47 · 2 pointsr/Machinists

http://www.amazon.com/Machinerys-Handbook-29th-Erik-Oberg/dp/083112900X

Any edition would probably work for what you need. The newest looks to be this 29th edition, but I've got an older 24th that I've used in the past. Whatever you can find cheaper and better quality! If you can't find it at the library, i would seriously consider buying your own copy. For me, ever since getting into this trade, i cant seem to find enough time in the day to absorb (and retain!) all the information out there to improve my own ability around the shop!

What are you mostly running? manual machines or any CNC?

u/TroyDL · 2 pointsr/Machinists

Funny enough that's exactly what I ended up getting, but not on sale; for about $52 shipped.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JYKIVC/

It doesn't really answer my question of how to measure flatness, technically, but since it has a certification of flatness I think it will be trustworthy and serve my purposes.

​

Thanks.

u/MonkyThrowPoop · 1 pointr/Machinists

Thanks so much! I added some pics and a drawing in some other comments. Hopefully those help explain what I’m looking for :)

Also, the ball inflator that I was looking at said that it has a 5/16” thread, but I’d probably just send a pack of them to whoever is making this to make sure it’s the right size before they make it.
Here’s what I was looking at. It has a 3/8” adapter that I thought would work well with another adapter I saw, but I think they’re 3/8”-16, not -24.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Sports-Inflator-Needle-Adapter/dp/B003QVYYDY

u/mmediaman · 2 pointsr/Machinists

This book by peter smid is what our mastercam instructor used to teach us the fundamentals. Very basic feeling after you get into the trade but it's necessary. Pm me if you would like to glance at a copy.

Also
u/nine_divines suggestion of the machinist handbook is great, probably the only book I use I. The shop that's not a tooling catalog.

u/PeabodyJFranklin · 3 pointsr/Machinists

Well that's nice and cheap, unfortunately with the shipping it'd still end up $22 USD.

I did see one open-ended one on Amazon, but I wanted to get on with my project ASAP (instead of waiting another week) so ordered the drill-style one. I guess I'll find out tomorrow if the collect chuck will even fully fit in it first.

I wasn't finding a drawbar anyway to fit the chuck, and was going to have to make something up (thread some roundbar to M10-1.5, put a nut of some sort on the other end).

I wonder if I'd be able to cut/part off the tail of the sleeve I got, to 1) remove the tang and 2) allow access to the chuck's drawbar.

u/NBQuade · 2 pointsr/Machinists

Best thing about these wrenches is you don't have to crank them back down to 20 ft/lbs after each use like you do with spring based torque wrenches.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3TMDK1QRGU9I&keywords=torque+beam+wrench&qid=1564321191&s=gateway&sprefix=torque+beam%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-10

This is the generic version of that wrench.

u/scoroby · 5 pointsr/Machinists

I'm currently doing school for my 4th year in my apprenticeship. My professor has and highly recommends CNC machining handbook by Peter Smid. I'll find a link

CNC Programming Handbook https://www.amazon.ca/dp/0831133473/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FN5MAb15GGWZ6

He says it explains CNC programming in an easy to understand manner. I kinda want it myself because I'm with you, g code is rough for me lol

u/robstah · 3 pointsr/Machinists

Find the best looking Brown and Sharpe used dial caliper on ebay. I think I paid $35 and it is still mint and the movement is silky smooth. Your mileage will vary though.

But if I were you, I'd just save up and drop some coin on a Mitutoyo digital. A new standard 6" is $100 right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468330954&sr=8-3&keywords=mitutoyo+digital+caliper

u/involutes · 2 pointsr/Machinists

I think so, but I haven't seen them in digital. I hope 60" isn't too small for you. ;)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDZBVE/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

u/KingSlinks · 2 pointsr/Machinists

Definitely a tapered pipe thread. Used for compressed inert shielding gasses like argon. https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Water-Fitting-Argon-Inert/dp/B07DFP66Z8

u/kazzerax · 1 pointr/Machinists

I have found these to be the best size for actually taking with me everywhere

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRGUN29/

u/THE_CENTURION · 1 pointr/Machinists

Uh, pretty sure the pointed end is a "center finder". That's what I use it for anyway.

http://youtu.be/06IGyn84lmE?t=1m23s

That's what Mitutoyo says it is.

You have a good idea too there though, but I don't think that situation comes up enough to warrant slapping one on the back of your edge finder.

u/cactus342 · 2 pointsr/Machinists

I've always preferred the Starrett 316R. It has 10ths & 100ths on one side and 32nds & 64ths other side. It's expensive but I thought it was the easiest to read.

https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-C316R-6-6-Inch-Steel-Graduations/dp/B0002FUN0K

u/dominicaldaze · 3 pointsr/Machinists

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0831130954/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ubmlzbACY25EK

Prob be able to find one used. This has a thorough (though basic) primer and equations on gears and threads that should help you.

u/KingCarbon · 1 pointr/Machinists

I would get an indicol holder like this for a bridgeport.

u/notkoreytaube · 1 pointr/Machinists

take a look at this. it realy dumbs down a lot of stuff for beginners, but also includes some stuff pertaining to entry level cnc programming. I think it goes over like coolant compositions, types of mills and lathes, types of cutting tools, processes and such. Has lots of illustrations and, as my cnc instructor says, pitchers for the visual learner.

edit forgot to put the name of the book/ a link

nims precision machining technology book

u/tyfunk02 · 2 pointsr/Machinists

I had a copy of this when I first started out. CNC Programming Handbook, Third Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/0831133473/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_CaO4wbM6APTY9