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I'm super late to this and don't have any meaningful suggestions to add but I hope you followed through on the interest. I got into the automotive field as a career from the same fire - cars intrigued and intimidated me and I hated not knowing anything about them so I just went for it fully with a college education. Really glad I did, learned a ton, and now I can recognize a lot of the beauty in the complicated mechanisms that non-mechanics can't see.

A lot of mechanics are passionate about cars (go figure!) and if you meet any they'd most likely love to pour their knowledge onto you until you're bored. We love talking about this shit and explaining how it all works.

There are a lot of great books on automotive work. It's helpful to get one of those huge tomes and just start reading it to get some foundational knowledge of the years of technology and development that went into cars as they are today. The more you understand about how things were designed, why they were engineered that way, what problems they were trying to resolve by making that part, the more you'll understand about the interconnectedness of the mechanical pieces and why they are what they are today. You can "understand" the car more as a comprehensive machine. A repair manual for the car you own is a great supplement to add specifics relevant to you on top of basic automotive knowledge.

http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Service-Inspection-Maintenance-Repair/dp/1111128618

This is the book I bought for my college automotive studies. Only book that was required for an 18 month program! It's a great outline of literally everything in a car. The computer stuff, vehicle communications, trouble codes, electrical systems - all that stuff is really fascinating too. You might like studying it if you're into code.

As I stated elsewhere I don't think a torque wrench should be on the top of the 'recommended tools' list, esp if you just plan on doing routine maintenance. They are definitely good to have once you start tackling larger projects but a good torque wrench can be quite expensive and I think that money is better spent elsewhere when first putting together a tool set for routine maintenance.

I'd recommend:

• jack & jackstands
  
• a decent socket set. I personally have this set and it has proven to be a good starting point that I then built off of as I needed other tools (including said torque wrench, etc). I've owned & used smaller sets as well but for the extra $50 or so that it costs to step up to the 255-piece set I think it's worth it.
  
• Good ratchets - While the craftsman ratchets themselves will get you by I'd also recommend a better set of ratchets if you plan on doing frequent work. I got these and absolutely love them, my buddy likes them enough that he is buying a set now that he has used mine.
  
• Ratchet wrenches are unnecessary but a nice luxury. I got Gearwrench ratchet wrenches for 50% off during the annual Xmas sale at Advance Auto parts so I'd say to wait for that if you can.
  
  Edit to add:
  
  
• Tire iron
  
• Threadlock blue for reassembly
  
• MAPP gas torch (can get them for like $40 at Home Depot IIRC... VERY useful for stubborn nuts/bolts).
  
• If you do plan on tackling larger projects it might also be good to get a breaker bar for extra leverage on said stubborn nuts/bolts, though this also introduces more risk of breaking bolts).
  
• If you do end up breaking bolts, it's always good to have a decent drill and drill bits

Oooh oooh, I know this one!

So Matraxia is pretty much right, whatever is cheap, but I'll give you some more info you should know.

Pretty much all of the OBDII scanners out there, at least for consumer use, are based on the ELM327 IC. The ELM defines a serial, text-based protocol as an input, so you (or an app like Torque) give it a series of commands just like it were a modem, and then it handles communicating with your vehicle via several different protocols, all pretty much transparently. That's why one program like Torque can talk to pretty much every vehicle, via the ELM chip's magic.

The thing about that is, the firmware for the ELM chip got leaked a long time ago and there have been unlicensed Chinese copies made ever since. The real ELM has had upgrades since then, and the Chinese version has sort of kept up, but in the knockoffs some things work right and some things don't. They're frequently slower, buggier, or don't support certain commands, compared to the real ELM chips.

So how do you tell which you're getting? Mostly the price. The knockoffs are cheap, like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Real-slim-ELM327-Bluetooth-V2-1-OBD2-Car-Auto-Diagnostic-interface-Scanner-Tool-/112145219935?hash=item1a1c60415f:g:YXwAAOSwzaJX44nq

No way that's a real one. Not for 4 bucks. That said, I have no idea what the cutoff is where you might consider it legit.

Personally, I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491605126&sr=8-3&keywords=obdII

I have sent it a number of commands over the serial terminal to verify that it's a real ELM327 chip and it has passed all of my tests. That said, it could still just be a good knockoff with a lot of the ELM's newer commands implemented. I really don't know for sure.

Either way, works great.

As for gathering data and exporting to excel.. that has nothing to do with the OBDII adapter you get and everything to do with the software you run on your phone. I have no idea of Torque or others support this but it seems like they should.

It's the 4-cylinder. The original parts were Denso, but I'm pretty confident that I got the correct Dorman parts. It's a '99 Camry LE L4. EGR Valve, Modulator, VSV. None of the vacuum hose in the VSV/EGR/Modulator system is clogged. I actually checked the 5 or 6 hoses while I was replacing everything. I also sprayed some Gumout Carb Cleaner into into the intake when I took the EGR off. Cleaned the EGR pipe too.

This is the scanner I'm using. I'm also using the Torque app on my phone. As you can see, it offers some nice monitoring. I glanced at that Vacuum Boost graph while I was driving and I think I remember it sitting at around 15 when I was idling and dropping to 3 or 4 once I got going. I didn't check out the O2 graphs though. I'll log some graphs tomorrow and do some real testing.

Thanks so much for your awesome response. Troubleshooting this has been so frustrating and you've given me something to do.

I know its a little late but when I replaced my radiator everything I read recommending purchasing a Lisle funnel for burping the system. It worked like a charm - especially nice since it was the last step in a long afternoon. Also for the radiator: buy a pack of the black plastic clips for the plastic guards under the car (also on Amazon), no doubt you'll break a few and the Honda dealerships charge like $2 a piece.

Like someone else said below, buy a 1/2" breaker bar. You can ruin your ratchets putting too much torque on them. A 3/8" breaker is often really useful, too. I buy craftsman for a lot of this stuff - its pretty cheap but they will literally just hand you a new tool off the shelf if you come in with a broken one. Also, 4" and 6" extensions are really convenient.

Its not what you were asking but: find a Harbor Freight in your area. They are definitely cheap tools but you're not a pro - sometimes you just need to get the job done. I have an electric impact drill that has saved my ass a few times. I think I bought it for like $20. Plus a set of universal joints for 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" inch. Super cheap and very useful. Don't buy anything from there without a 20% off coupon (you can bring them up on your phone).

This is the book that I used for 3 years of Automotive Tech and it is 1200 pages of goodness. It goes into deep detail about the systems and how they work then the following chapter is all about how to repair or service them. You can get used copies for under $50 now but it is super informative. Otherwise check Facebook for local car clubs and join in. Most people are super friendly and willing to help or show you things.

I'm not /u/gingican but I can provide the comparison:

1. Generic one that looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K4SVS2M -- mine was from Harbor Freight (they don't have it anymore) and was orange but otherwise identical. Fine for pulling standard codes and resetting Check Engine Light.
   
   
2. Scangauge II -- mainly used as a gauge but good for pulling/resetting basic codes and getting freeze frame data. Obviously, can provide a bunch of data (as intended for daily gauge use). With a lot of work (programming XGauge codes) it could get a little more data too.
   
   
3. BAFX bluetooth OBD2 tool http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS is nice. It's just hardware, it works great, but what's really nice is Torque. Torque can store/export sensor data, integrate with GPS data, display all manner of gauges and graphs, etc. My only complaint is I can't access ABS codes (specifically on my GM). Also, bluetooth itself is nice, the device is easily plugged in and no fooling with wires, and I can interface with the phone that I already carry anyway.

> I absolutely understand torque wrenches and their importance, but, not sure I want to make the investment for the infrequency I would use one at this point in my life.

Really???

Just two examples: https://amzn.com/B0019VMI0Y and https://www.hfqpdb.com/coupons/3364_ITEM_CLICK-TYPE_TORQUE_WRENCHES_1562189647.3117.png

Those are much cheaper than brake rotors. The beam type will last forever. It's a good idea to have the calibration checked on the click types because the springs stretch on them. I have a couple of the Harbor Freight cheap ones, and some "tool truck" ones I paid $100+ for, and if anything, the HF ones stay closer to proper calibration longer than the expensive ones.

If storage space is a problem, I also like this solution: https://amzn.com/B009GLISI0 which also doesn't require periodic calibration (and can actually be used to check calibration on other torque wrenches).

For pads, I agree Akebono are the best. Those go on my wife's Mercedes S class, and on her VW Beetle daily driver. My pickup truck, a 1997 Chevy S10 2WD with the 4.3L V6 (which is also my autocross "sports car") is running Wagner ThermoQuiet Cermic pads now. They are inexpensive but very effective. Most modern ceramics (even the parts store "house brands") are more than adequate for today's cars and today's tires.

I agree here. I bought my Bluetooth dongle from Amazon and use the Torque app, which is available only for Android. I do use the paid version, however, and it works wonderfully.

Beware of some of the cheap-o Bluetooth adapters on eBay as some might not be able to work with the CANBUS protocol. Just make sure the eBay seller has a decent return policy if you do buy on there.

The app + Bluetooth adapter combination works great for me. It makes it easy to look up codes and save them. If you want more information for a code than just a quick one line description, the app takes you to a website that displays more information about it. It's pretty slick, cheap, and more handy than some of the regular OBDII scanners with the built-in screens.

In MPG? Not sure honestly, my gas gauge is inconsistent and I haven't driven it long distance in a few weeks. Though if you believe the gauge, 45 miles (40 highway) cost about a quarter tank, about 8.5 gallons. So that'd be roughly 5MPG but like I said, I don't know how much I trust it given how I only had a quarter tank to start with.

I was going to order this to have a look, would you recommend it, or a different one?

Sort of glad to hear that my goof probably isn't what caused it, and if it's just that emissions thing I won't bother for now since it got inspected in November last year, still plenty of time. But as soon as I'm done typing this I'll hit up AutoZone and see if they'll read my code. Where would I go about finding out what the code means?

Edit: P0137, O2 Sensor. I don't need an inspection sticker until September, so I'm no longer worried. I'll fix it when I get the chance. Thanks for the help!

Well, I'd say everyone has done a fine job at covering the personal type advice. Lot of great advice on how to succeed and advance. I'm more of a hardware guy, so lets talk tools.

I love tools and so do you, whether you know it yet or not. The shop I worked at only had 3 mechanics plus a counter guy. Obviously we didn't have lube techs, tire techs, mechanical techs, etc... we just took whatever came in, in whatever order it came in. So even split between lube and repairs by a huge margin, my most valuable tool was my cart

My bay was always neater, and I was always faster because I had my red cart with all the tools I needed for lube and tire jobs super organized on it. So for oil changes and tire rotations I didn't even go to my toolbox, I just pushed my cart over and got it done. For any other work, I just went one time to my toolbox, got everything I would need for a job, put it on the cart with my lube tools, then take it all in one trip.

As long as you

• Don't set a tool down anywhere other than on your cart!
  
  
• Always put away tools you put on your cart between every job. No exceptions.
  
  you will never lose a tool.
  
  On my cart, I screwed down a magnetic strip on the top shelf, and kept the 3/8" drive sockets for common oil pan plugs on one end, and the impact sockets for common lug nuts on the other. Also on top I had a Philips and flathead screwdriver, a 3/8" ratchet, a few different length extensions, a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm attached, a flashlight, a tire gauge, my filter wrench, a super-cheap code reader, and one of these. It looks silly, and sounds stupid, and your coworkers will laugh at it, but your hands stay so much cleaner.
  
  On the middle shelf, I had a massive pile of clean grease rags, and a 1/2 gallon pump bottle of hand scrub.
  
  On the bottom shelf was a small cardboard box to throw dirty rags in until I had a chance to dump them in the can, my impact gun, a couple impact extensions, and a tire inflator.
  
  Hanging on the side I had two sets of rubber-coated gloves. One "dirty" and one "clean". One set was for wearing outside the car to keep shit off my hands. The other set was to put on when I needed to touch something inside the car, to keep the shit that did get on my hands, off the upholstery.
  
  Among the thousands of dollars of tools in my 7 foot high tool chest, what I've described above probably accounts for 75% of my daily tool usage, and more like 99% of my oil/tire job tool usage. Set yourself up like that, and don't even worry about a tool bag.

The thermostat location probably won't move much between model years especially if it's the same engine type. Either way, just watching a couple videos on replacing thermostats on ANY car will teach you enough to find yours - it's probably right at the end of the lower radiator hose.

Did I say "filter" ? Sorry, I meant "funnel". And no, you don't have to have one. You can effectively burp the car without it, the funnel just makes it much easier. . You definitely need to burp it well though, if you don't get all the air out you'll have cooling issues. Sure you can reuse the existing coolant, just be careful to trap it all in clean containers and keep it clean while you work.

But now, let's talk about your car for a bit as your Dad may be jumping to conclusions a bit. First of all, can you really carefully describe what the issues with your inside heat is ? Does air come out, but not the right temp? Or does no air come out ? Does the car take a really long time to warm up ? Or does it overheat ?

FYI the thermostat's job isn't to control a temperature of something like a house thermostat. It's basically an off/off valve that prevents coolant from circulating until the car has warmed up. Once the car has warmed up to operating temperature, the coolant hits a certain temperature, this prompts the thermostat to open up and let the coolant circulate which keeps the car at that temperature. It's not a thermostat like "set the inside air to warm".

There's not one right on the thermostat housing? Like I said the ones on the T/B are higher anyways so you'll get more of a complete bleed. But just slowly pull the one line off. It'll spray all over! It'll take like 3 seconds once the air is all at the top. Also a spill free funnel on the radiator will help tremendously. Lisle sells them pretty cheap. Lisle spill free funnel

Shop ain’t giving you proper tools? Business people these days...sacrifice safety for profit. Wear gloves, hopefully they provide that. ....loosen the oil drain plug with a decent ratchet/wrench, buy this tool and keep for yourself: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5911-Drain-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW
Loosen bolt rest of the way with that and you will not get a drop of oil on yourself it’ll hold the drain bolt too so that it won’t fall into your old oil collection...proper tools will help you avoid touching the hot areas of the oil pan

If you need additional sockets get harbor freight..hex set plus ratchet and extensions....safety is important.

If you have to get safety glasses too...I use them for oil changes, and if others make fun of you, ignore them.

It comes down to how long do you want it to last?

You're getting a lot of old school suggestions here with bondo and fiberglass stuff. There are products for this that work that consumers can get which are significantly easier to use and more effective.

Pick up what is called a "bumper repair kit". I know you are not preparing a bumper but it contains everything you need. The kit is sold at most auto store places. It contains a two-part dispenser of a black urethane epoxy and a sheet of webbing and some plastic tabs. When I get to my computer I will come back here and post a YouTube link on the basics for how you can repair this it's not the exact same issue but the similar process will work.

The kit looks like:
http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-280-Bumper-Repair-Syringe/dp/B0046VN8JO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420828130&sr=8-1&keywords=bumper+repair+kit

Use that kit with this method:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqtOGI2To7s

Follow the steps in this video as they apply to you, but use the the bumper repair kit you buy at the store. The same prep and application method. If you can't get to the backside of the cut, that's okay. If you have a drill, drill two small holes on each side of the cut, then apply the repair material over the little holes you drilled, and the big one you are trying to fix, all with one patch. The material will go through the little holes you drilled, expand, then dry-effectively the same thing as a rivet, but stronger and easier.

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CEJkDb0V2Z9T5

I just want to mention, I do strongly recommend investing in a real one if you want an odb scanner. I keep this one with me because it's small, and cheap, and like i said, it's usually right, but not always completely correct. Is it worth $10-$11 dollars? Sure! Do I ALWAYS trust it? Not always.

Speaking as a non professional, who was once in your position, I would do a couple of things:

Buy the Chilton or Haynes manual for your car. Some will buy the actual shop manual from the factory but it is more expensive.

Check to see if there is an on line owners forum for your specific make and model. I belong to at least 1 owners group for each of my cars. There is little you will face that someone there hasn't seen, fixed, and provided details with pictures. The older the car, the more likely someone has already figured it out.

This sub. You've already found it so that's a good start.

YouTube. Full of instructions and videos on how to fix and replace stuff. You'll find just about everything there. A lot of garages will put out some really professional looking video's in hopes you'll buy the parts from them. I learned how to replace the control arms, ball joints, and end links on my Ranger and Explorer, the struts on my Toyota Previa, and the motor mounts on my Focus, all through YouTube videos.

I also couldn't live without a good OBDII reader. I use the BlueDriver (but there are others like it). For every code it finds, it gives you access to a pre written report, by ASE certified mechanics, on the top reasons for and best potential fixes of, that code.

And most importantly, you need a shitty car to work on. Mine was an old Chrysler also.

Ok, I didn't force the thermostat, it just fit nicely. If I squeeze the bottom hose I can see the fluid rise in the radiator (when the cap it off), so I don't think there's any obstructions.

I will invest in the funnel, That'll be my next step. http://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY without checking my local shop.

The radiator was bad, it was leaking tons (smoke coming from the engine). It overheated but not horribly the gauge didn't get too high.

I'll try the funnel and if that doesn't work then we'll see.

I really appreciate the help! If you live in Winnipeg i'll buy you a beer!

Thing One:

There is a low-fluid sensor usually found on the side of your master cylinder. If your bake pads are worn down, more fluid takes up the space behind the caliper pistons, so when you apply the brake, the piston moves out to press the pad to the rotor, the fluid level drops, and your truck thinks the fluid is low. When you let off the brake, the piston moves slightly away from the pad, the pressure releases on the system and the reservoir returns to minimal levels, and the beeping goes away; you can't see a problem with the fluid level in the driveway.

Have your truck on, the hood up. With the truck parked and engine on, have a friend watch the fluid reservoir while you press the brake pedal and see what happens. If this is the problem, new brake pads will fix this. Don't just add fluid. This will make a big mess when you eventually get the pads replaced if the calipers aren't bled first. All it can take is a millimeter or two of "too-low" pad material to make this problem occur.

Thing Two:

ABS module or exciter ring/wheel speed sensor issue . Get a scan of the ABS module and see what it says. Vato-Zone won't have the tool for this for free, you'll probably have to buy one, pay a shop, or find a friend. I recommend the Autel ML629 for ABS module diagnostics if you want to buy one. Make sure to check their compatibility tables prior to purchase.

If the scan-tool kicks back a ECM Fault code and can't communicate with the ABS module you either have a bad module or a bad electrical connection to the module. I would say the former is more likely if the truck has been taken care of and you don't live in the rust belt. An ABS module is designed specifically to spend your money and also maybe help you avoid a crash.

Cheapest option first is to check for corrosion or bad connections so start there if you get an ECM fault code.

If it is the module, they are $$$ BUT you can get them rebuilt for pennies on the dollar. I've had good luck with these guys; they just rebuilt one for me:

https://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/

Scan-Tool:

https://smile.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiLink-ML629-Transmission-Diagnoses/dp/B07M66RH77/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=autel+ml629&qid=1556392706&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

​

Good luck.

To bleed the system just leave the cap off of the radiator and let the bubbles burp out at the engine is running. Make sure the heat is on and the blower motor is on high. They make a special funnel that you can use (Spill Free Funnel). It may be worth it to buy it or it may not. If you don't use it then put a big catch pan underneath the radiator opening.

Once you start to get good heat then you know most of the air is out of the system. Take it for a drive as long as all the gauges look good then let it sit and cool off. Check the coolant afterwards and away you go!

Its possible you may need to rev the engine up to get the bubbles out (like 2k or just quickly put it to wide open throttle and let it come back down).

If you don't see any bubbles coming out and you don't see any leaks on the ground, but you don't have heat you could try just driving it. Driving it may help push some more bubbles out.

My bad, the BAFX is a good, simple, inexpensive OBD dongle and it looks like I spoke prematurely about it dying, lol (key on is important, Doh!)...

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=BAFX&qid=1559133910&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

I'm still wondering if the increased speeds of the OBDLink MX+ may be worth it though as well as the increased data pids for my Toyota.

First one I ever got was an Autel MaxiScan M300. It doesn't suggest fixes, but that's what I used google for! Worked great on ever car I used it on

edit: I still use it when all I want to do is read or clear codes and not read live data

By the way, I'd suggest ordering one of these and downloading the Torque Pro app to use with it. Great addition to anyone's road kit, and it lets you access the kind of information you need to effectively diagnose car troubles. Information like fuel trims, trouble codes, O2 data, etc. are IMMENSELY helpful when people ask us for help here :-)

This car has ~140k miles and the majority of things under the hood seem to be original. The last owner kept a pretty good record of routine maintenance. They were not the type to take the car to the dealership for repairs or maintenance, but everything that I have changed lately (plugs, wires, PCV valve, serpentine belt) were all Motorcraft, which makes me think that most of it is original.

I did order an OBDII scan tool which should be here in a couple days, so hopefully that will be of some help. Most of my previous cars were older and I didn't have any use for that sort of thing.

I’m currently in a similar situation with a car worth less (and we still owe more on the loan) than what the potential repair is. By some dumb luck I had the thought to look through the paperwork from when my husband bought the car and he had freaking bought mechanical breakdown coverage!!! So I’m breathing a sigh of relief atm. But as for you, the code thrown by the car is not always indicative of what exactly is wrong. For example my car was throwing an engine code (p0172) and multiple engine cylinders misfiring, but in actuality the turbocharger had gone bad (still an expensive fix, but less than an engine repair). Trans tune and slip fluid, may help in the immediate future, but after that the problem will still persist, its a temporary solution if it even works. To clear the codes you can buy your own OBDII reader and just plug it into the car and clear the codes if you really wish. This one I know for a fact allows you to clear codes, but you might be able to shop around and find another cheaper one that will suffice. As a suggestion, some mechanics will buy cars that need work because they are able to fix them and then sell them for more money. It’s just an option and would put some money in your pocket to buy a new car if you can’t afford this repair.

Edit- wanted to add to the part about codes not being exactly what’s wrong. They still correlate to the mechanical failure. The engine code of p0172 is that the system is too rich in bank 1. This means not enough air and too much fuel is flowing into the combustion chambers. So it makes sense that since the turbo is not functioning, enough air would not be getting mixed in with the fuel.

Edit 2- hastily wrote my first edit and apparently irked some people off :) fixed my mistake.

For best (read: accurate) results, make sure your dongle uses a genuine up-to-date ELM327 and not a bootleg knockoff running outdated firmware. (A Chinese company got hold of an older version that didn't have the security bits set right and did a ROM dump to get some of the firmware, which has gone into mass reproduction for the cheap ELM knockoffs. The real ELM, OTOH, has had several firmware revisions since then and isn't missing entire blocks of program code.)

This is the one I have as a spare/quick-and-dirty code checker. It works well, it's pretty accurate compared to my more expensive scanners, and it's a legit ELM327 running new firmware.

 

There are also new competitors to the ELM327, namely the STN1110, STN1170, STN2120, which claim to offer faster performance and a larger number of supported protocols. However, I have no experience with these as only a scant handful of dongles are using them.

Like others said, lights (rechargeable), creeper, good jack and/or jack stands, magnet bowl, magnet's pen(see link), torque wrench, breaker bar, Car ramps. Or maybe if you have a harbor freight in your area a gift card there. I use to always buy craftsman tools but with them(sears) hurting so bad lately i have started buy HF stuff because they make warranty exchange so damn easy and stuff is cheap in price.

Link 1

Link 2

Link 3

Dont go off the brands i linked just the type of tool itself. Also a vice, or C-clamps, or portable speaker to use while working on said car. :)

I hope this helps you some...

A few things from HF that I own and would recommend. Jack Stands, jack, breaker bar, 1/4'' ratchet, 3/8'' ratchet, 1/2'' ratchet, 3/8'' locking extensions, 1/2'' locking extensions, screwdrivers. Some other things I would recommend, Lisle oil filter wrench, Lisle oil pan. I would look on Ebay for used Craftsman sockets sets and combination wrenches. That should be enough to get you started. You can upgrade and expand from there as you see fit.

And Don't forget the HF coupons ;)

https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503677599&sr=8-1&keywords=BAFX

Anything other than that, you mine as well save your money for a true scan tool.

Make sure it's a true BAFX product. There's tons of look-a-likes. It's not worth saving $5 bucks for it to crap out.

HA. I logged on this evening to find the comment where someone had suggested exactly this.
I've heard good things about the Torque app used with a bluetooth adapter. The one I was suggested was this one.

I'm curious bout the many bluetooth/wifi dongles and their abilities to work with German CAN cars, and possibly Ross-Tech software.

Thanks for the thorough answer! I really appreciate the help! I don't have any tools unfortunately but I can get them. Would this be a good voltmeter? (Innova 3320)
So to confirm, I would connect the voltmeter to the crankshaft sensor and test whether there is any output? I can also rent a fuel gauge and try your second suggestion. I'll keep you posted. Thanks so much again!

I used to jack the front of the car up to try to raise the radiator, but I bought a kit for filling cooling systems. Actually works pretty good

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491394577&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=spill+proof+funnel&psc=1

Make sure you get a genuine adapter. I have one from a company called BAFX products. The first one I ordered from newegg turned out to be a counterfeit and it would not work. It didn't mess up my car or anything, it just didn't work. I had to buy another one from Amazon which was a genuine product and it works flawlessly.

EDIT: ok who's the wise guy downvoting me?

Any auto parts store will scan your stored DTCs for free. Step #1 is to determine what DTCs are stored.

If your CEL (check engine light) has been on, then there are DTCs stored. If your CEL was flashing, that means the engine was misfiring, big time. If your CEL is flashing there's a risk of doing engine and/or cat damage ($$$).

If you are determined to troubleshoot and fix it yourself, then a scan tool that does live data will show you what's wrong.

In general, a scan tool will tell you about all your sensors, or TPS (throttle position sensor) O2 sensor, ECT (engine coolant temp), MAP (manifold absolute pressure), etc. And 'live data' means you can see what they are doing when the engine is misfiring.

There are two ways to get a scanner, either a dedicated scanner or with a smarphone app.

1. Dedicated scanner: Innova makes some easy to use scan tools, about $120 for a Innova 3040e.
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07525GNFR?ref=emc_b_5_t
   
   
2. Scanner APP: Most scanner 'apps' are $5 and a bluetooth OBDII gizmo is about $20.
   
   App:
   
   Torque
   https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en
   
   OBD Auto Doctor
   https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/obd-auto-doctor/id908897183?mt=8
   
   Blue Tooth gizmo:
   https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

good call given the spec for my rims is 120 Nm +/- 10. Given that i think I may order the 1/2 one and get a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer and deal with the bulk when I'm under the car doing an oil change. By that time i may invest in a 3/8 or 1/4. Had to add in I'm so excited to order my Rhino Ramps instead of jacking up my car I'm like a kid in a candy store lol

Just answered a similar post. I've had great luck with these:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8

Don't get something old from the 80's or 70's. it'll just make getting parts harder.

If you want a reliable beater that will be easy to repair get a 90's Honda. They are simple to work on, parts are plentiful, and as a daily driver they get amazing mileage. If you yet an obd2 model (96 and newer) get one of these so you can scan the codes.

The 3400 should have brass air bleed screws at the waterpump and where the upper rad hose meets the engine. Be gentile as the heads will easily snap off. Also run the heat full blast the whole time and make sure the temp stay around half the gauge as these normally run a hair under half. Also they sell what is called a spill free funnel that replaces the rad cap. They are handy and worth the $30 or so they cost.
Edit: this...
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

Yea, that's 2nd grader level science experiment style, if I'm being honest. There's so many variables and loss of solid testing in the way you did it, that it really shows nothing.



You need to get this (or one like it)

BAFX Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read / Clear Your Check Engine Light & So Much More! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4sIHDbPWB5R0W

Then get the Torque app

You'll then be able to read actual, real time fuel consumption

Spoiler, everything is normal

I had an old Saturn once with similar symptoms and it turned out to be the EGR valve - I removed it and cleaned it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. In my case I was able to diagnose as I had an OBDII scanner and the Torque app for my phone:


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-Expansion-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=pd_bxgy_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000QW6K8I&pd_rd_r=S5Y991CFSFKEM81R50HR&pd_rd_w=shMAm&pd_rd_wg=vJc3p&psc=1&refRID=S5Y991CFSFKEM81R50HR

Barring that I would try to get it off with a pipe wrench. Make sure the teeth on your wrench are sharp so it digs into the head of the drain plug. Also make sure you already have a new drain plug on hand before removing the old one.

good idea for "to change flat tire". in the shop today, I want to use my hand tool to loose that lug nuts to make sure it's smooth, that piss off the boss, he asked me to get lost. I should come up with a reasoning of "just in case I need to change flat tire".

>remove them often enough
do you remove them every 3 months or 6 months? I usually didn't touch it if there is need to, such as to change a flat tire.

> Torque it down, dry
you dry the lug nuts before put it on? May I know what's the purpose?

Thank you for your recommendation of the 3 tools, do you think these 3 looks Ok:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2Lfk_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=CWTA8X0BR49HVQ186Y8Y&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=365b646d-0ab5-53c3-9063-fe500e13a356&pf_rd_i=559968

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-in-drive-quick-release-teardrop-ratchet/p-00944809000P

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-15356-2-Inch-24-Inch-Breaker/dp/B00MWVAUT6


Thank you!

I used this one for 5+ years and it never let me down, good features and a nice big display while being cheap. Only downside is the amp mode doesnt have a fuse so be careful not to put it across a battery like that.

The one I use is pretty much this, or a clone of it. Or that's a clone of the one I've got.

Either way, it'll almost certainly do everything you need it to so long as you're fine faffing about with drivers and things if it doesn't work right away.

It's this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522502834&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=obd2+reader&dpPl=1&dpID=416SaTHOpkL&ref=plSrch

Unit is 20 bucks, the app I use is 5, it's sort of a halfway point between an old-school handheld reader and a proper diagnostic sweet. Shows me a lot of live data on top of code reading. I'm sure if I had a newer vehicle it would show me more.

Basically what you do is run the engine with one of these on the radiator. It allow the air bubbles to work out the system and keeps the radiator topped off. When its running you rev the engine quickly and it will force air bubbles out as well. When it is running the upper radiator hose should be hot to the touch this means the thermostat is open as it should and the lower on should be cool. The heater hoses will get warm as well.

You can buy a beam style torque wrench for less than $20 so that in the future you can torque away confident that you're not grossly exceeding or undershooting the correct torque value: https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-03703L-Torque-Wrench-Hardened/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8SE6HAEEYYSXHDKN6EJS

Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS

These are SUPER handy to have around. The one above works on Android (using the Torque app) , although this reddit post suggests using a different model if you have an iPhone.

I had an impact socket crack and I didn't notice it until I found that I rounded a few of my lugs. Not a good feeling when trying to put the lugs back on. Anyway, I thought I'd give the Irwin Bolt Grips a try. Just hold them flush to the lug, pound them on with a few good whacks, put your cheater on, let the teeth bite and you should be home free. I was really surprised at how well they worked.

There are two sets, so get the one with the size that you need.

That will work, but the trick I've found is to fill it from the upper tank with the cap on the radiator removed. Once the radiator is full, throw that cap back on and continue as you recommended. Also, a no-spill funnel can make life a lot easier.

Also, these are fucking awesome.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00A6AS6LY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518280301&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=coolant+funnel&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ir3XgVIjL&ref=plSrch

Replace the .ca with you local countries code.

I'd get a code scanner. You can get bluetooth ones from Amazon for $30 (I use this one by BAFX) and use them with Torque if you have android (or if you have a laptop with bluetooth, there's a few applications that work).

Sometimes you can rent/borrow them from AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts but I'd call ahead before making the trip over there. Obviously getting the car there won't be easy.

It could be just a loose sensor cable, vacuum hose or pinched fuel line from the whack your car got. Code reader will give you a really good place to start. Hopefully it's something simple.

Leverage.


I have the matco (3x as expensive) version of all of these:

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81230F-Polish-Handle-Ratchet/dp/B000V5G7LU/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000V5G7LU&pd_rd_r=WFB0XHAVEFRVD1DD6CZS&pd_rd_w=itHwF&pd_rd_wg=A03cy&psc=1&refRID=WFB0XHAVEFRVD1DD6CZS


I have this set and the larger set and I use the shit out of them:

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85988-Ratcheting-Wrench-GearBox/dp/B000T8WFBU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1509582952&sr=1-4&keywords=long+gear+wrench

Most shops have a little blurb on the work order telling you to stop back by in 100 miles to have the torque checked. No one ever does but this is the reason it exists. In my personal experience the basic ugly steel wheels are usually fine but the fancy bling rims need to be retorqued quite often.

Stop back by next week and ask them to check the torque on all of them. Better yet go get yourself a torque wrench so you can do this yourself for the rest of your life. This one is cheap and will work fine. The beam type are pretty much good forever. (fixed link to one that will actually work)

I recommend this scan tool with the Torque App. All of the things on your smartphone. Heck of a lot easier than a laptop, IMO.

This is the best answer, so I'm just tagging on to say that there's a cheap tool to tell you how much water there's in your coolant.

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY

Best $22 I've ever spent. Paired with the Torque Pro app. BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0yrnybPDYCYCD

I have this one from Amazon paired with the Torque app on my Nexus 5. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U

Works great.

Something like this You gotta download a app like Torque or Dash command and it will tell you the code.

This is what i use:

BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qeaBCbW8N4VTS

Problem is just its a tight fit but ive used it in my 92 crown Vic, my 09 Pontiac G6, my friends Volkswagen Rabbit and a bunch of others. Just if you get any reader like this be sure not to leave it plugged in while you drive. If it causes problems on the CANBUS you'll watch your car go into full seizure mode.

This one connects to your phone via Bluetooth. There's any number of free apps available to read any trouble codes. Torque is a good app to use with this scanner.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0QE5BbTQ9HRSB

Now if you want to get it fixed professionally, by all means do so. But I wouldn't let lack of a torque wrench hold you back. This 1/2" drive one is only $40. I'm sure it's not the world's greatest torque wrench, but Tekton has a decent reputation. Harbor freight sells a 1/4" drive for $10 (after coupon, ~$20 otherwise).

You can rent a lot of specialty tools for bearings, etc from part stores like Autozone or Orielly's. I haven't seen anything saying they rent torque wrenches, but I'd give them a call at least.

https://www.amazon.ca/Industrial-394002-Bolt-Grip-Expansion-5-Piece/dp/B000QW6K8I?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_80vh2uly6k_e

Or hammer a socket on, They dont look like they are special keys just fluted lugnuts to look like they are keyed.

Yes, if it says its low, water is fine. Just make sure you get the mix right when you go to replace it.

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY

There still around. I have one.

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY

Amazon calls the coolant testers, but they used to be called something else. Like a hydrometer, though I know that isn't the name of these things.

I bought this one about a year ago, no complaints. Cheap. Easy to use. However, it doesn't look like it's sold directly by Amazon anymore, and I'm sometimes wary of the overseas third-party sellers. In general, you probably won't go wrong with any of the readers sold on Amazon with hundreds of good reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/

I have done probably a dozen of these. When disassembling, I have always found them sealed with silicone. I have also never had an issue with one leaking. I believe this is the stuff recommended in the service manual. If you look on the opposite end of that, I believe there is a small channel meant to be filled with the sealant.

Of course, if that kit did happen to have a gasket for that location in it, You could certainly use that.

Buy a obd2 scanner and read that code when it pops up, it can be very helpful and point you in the right direction

If you get the right size, something like this never fails.

Maybe on the impact. I used their 3/4 wrench on mine. My clapped out 1/2 inch pneumatic didn't cut it. Lisle makes a special socket that would probably work with that one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RGNCV1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sNmSCb9RNCJ71

Sure, I have this set.

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I

However, being that this is a smaller torx nut, you may need to find a set with smaller sized extractors. They sell all sorts of size sets on Amazon.

It’s only $20 and it’s needed. Either your local auto parts store will have it or you can buy it here.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=58764058049&gclid=CjwKCAjwkenqBRBgEiwA-bZVtoEqNRMEjUMWBL3GbW3-C_nYD-uuJ0ZfgihAUCwsOXsoV5PrcRgX8hoCOrYQAvD_BwE&hvadid=274667037306&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9027658&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2507075615956579707&hvtargid=aud-647006051489%3Akwd-310149416043&hydadcr=25614_9900508&keywords=burp+funnel&qid=1566234999&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMEVTS0dXSFRLT0FXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzA4OTIzMUFTSDUwNVJaSFY1NyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTAxMzU4WlgzTEZZMFEwVDFCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Even if your car comes with a bleeder valve I highly recommend using the method in the video with a burp funnel.

Sounds like antifreeze. If you want to see what the specific gravity (coolant to water ratio) go get one of these from a local parts store.

Option 1: Buy one of These, plug it into your car, and check for stored engine light codes.

When the light comes on again, plug it in, and see what set off the light.

Option 2:Go to autozone and have them do the same as option 1

Option 3: Go to a different mechanic and have them check.

You could have any number of issues. My personal car has a P0138 that randomly comes on when it feels like it and that’s not the gas cap at all.

What this dude says.

to help out though, here are some links to products.

Your [size] (https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-Expansion-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000QW6K8I&pd_rd_r=DR8J0NVJYCRBST55TM5T&pd_rd_w=DB8KO&pd_rd_wg=65rmM&psc=1&refRID=DR8J0NVJYCRBST55TM5T)

/u/FleetAdmiralWiggles

The most advanced version I have found that is still similar to what you asked specifically about is the BlueDriver one. It can do other modules like ABS & airbag systems a lot of those other small ones can't do. I have one that I use for simple work when I don't feel like dragging my big stuff out. It is more expensive than the others but does get frequent updates to the firmware. I have even participated in beta programs when they are adding new features.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS?aaxitk=T9uaI-iQvGgO-lA2C4WJMQ&pd_rd_i=B00652G4TS&pf_rd_p=3fade48a-e699-4c96-bf08-bb772ac0e242&hsa_cr_id=9483858770101&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=BlueDriver%20Bluetooth%20Pro%20OBDII%20Scan%20Tool%20for%20iPhone%20%26%20Android

I like this product or similar bleed funnel

If you have to work on it later, these are a life saver if you don't have one already. Make sure to make the fill point is the highest point while you do it. Ramps are all you usually need to do that.

Mine works great with Torque. I picked up this one last month and it's read my Ram PU 03, 02 Land Rover, 95 Cheyenne and 2014 Town and Country rental. Cheep sound investment

Buy this oil filter wrench in both sizes they make https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8 It will remove stuck filters very easy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVYGZA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It was the first thing that came up when I searched multimeter on Amazon. I can go get a different one at a store tomorrow and see if the results are the same. Are there any particular brands you reccommend?

first what car is it and what socket size did you use, then what is it holding?
this is just to find out why the nut is so rounded....
to untie it now you need a special wrench for rounded bolts/ nuts
https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

or the tool to break the nut
https://www.amazon.com/Teng-Tools-Piece-Nut-Splitter/dp/B00CYLV4TO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=nut+breaker+tool&qid=1569237771&s=gateway&sprefix=nut+bre&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNkU3OVNDOUdVMjBIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTc1MjU4MlhaNUE1UzJYNVQ2VyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODY2Nzg3SUpaNTlRSFBKVjUyJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU

I'm going to save you a HUGE headache with that engine and bleeding the air out of the system.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

Those engines are a huge pain in the ass to bleed the air out because of that damn bypass pipe. The one thats leaking in the video. The bypass bleeder is going to be your biggest issue.

This funnel will let you keep the highest point above the engine, It will also let the coolant flow up and down without spilling anything. it just makes the job much much easier.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
buy that.

fill rad and overflow tank with coolant until it shoots out of the bleeder valve. fill funnel with coolant. bring and hold throttle until rpm is around 2000. wait until the funnel gulps down all of the coolant. release the throttle, it'll burp some bubbles out of the funnel, and then use the plug to plug the funnel and empty it into the overflow. put caps back on. pat yourself on the back.

what gasket could air in the system blow? just curious as to what the reasoning behind that thought is.

This one works fine in my 2010 Subaru.

Then you can try Bondo 280 Epoxy Bumper Repair Syringe Kit

Don't use regular Bondo though, your bumper needs a certain amount of flex. Regular Bondo would be too hard.

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c0JpDb524PABH

This is what I got and it works well with my car scanner app. This is for Android only, but I know there are some for iPhone too. $10

bleed the system properly.

I can almost guarantee you have air in the system. if you're not noticing the level dropping.

to bleed the car properly watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU

you can get that funnel off amazon Lisle spill free funnel

you can certainly do it without that funnel but you'll be in for a messy/sticky job and you'll let fluid spill all over the damn place.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS

This is the one I'm looking at. Apparently it isn't AS bad as the 5 dollar chinesium circuits one, but the still aren't in any way a replacement for a proper scanner. I'm also looking at getting two OBDII to ethernet and or USB cables. Might be more functional.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Reader-Diagnostics-Devices/dp/B078K54MT5/

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS these are what my smog guy uses for quick engine control diagnostics. he has more advanced scan tools that i have.. this is still what he reaches for first.

You need one of these

Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4lqrDb20FBPSQ

Ah the ole' Jeep lug nut. I'm guessing this is a Grand Cherokee 1999-2004.

Exact same thing happened to me.

Bought these:
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-Expansion-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I

Smacked it on with a hammer and threw on the impact. Sat back and drank beer.

I'd use these

OTC (5911) Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Drain Plug Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054WI7CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_STkUCb5M20XPB I just found one this is what I was talking about

Or?
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Drain-Plug-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW

BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MzT7ybFM34YAR

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

either really expensive and you can read almost anything, or cheaper and you can read most things. not much in between. for under $30 you can do the Torq App and an OBDII bluetooth module and see if this does what you need.

https://torque-bhp.com/

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518616021&sr=8-4&keywords=obd2+bluetooth

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421856278&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41JrcMcdJ9L&ref=plSrch

This one?

This is the one I have

BAFX

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS

One of these OBDII-to-Bluetooth-to-phone gadgets?

https://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS

replace the radiator cap.

use one of these to bleed your coolant next time.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

just don't put the cap on. I only run it for a couple minutes and flush it several times until it runs clear.

I also use one of these. Once the radiator is full, fill it halfway and leave it running for 20-30 squeezing the hoses periodically, then shut it off and let it suck more coolant in as it cools down.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

If u get a bluetooth obd 2 sensor and download an app I can check codes and more. Ill find the stuff and edit this


Here is a sensor might need to find another to fit ur car so just an example https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS.


The app I use is torque

I just got This one off Amazon

It cost $'23 instead of $'13, but the reviews are higher because it seems to work on more cars with less problems than the $'13 version the other guy recommended. It comes with laptop software, but also works completely with the Android "Torque Pro" app.

3/4" impact wrenches are $100 at harbor freight. I know a few guys who have one with a 19mm socket just for crank pulleys. But now special sockets exist that let me take Honda crank bolts off with my crusty old IR 1/2" impact gun.

BTW I just linked the first one I found, there are a few different ones and even some DIY sockets.

I'm just a tinker too, but if he doesn't have a scan tool to reader error codes, look at the new Bluetooth sets. Plug in to the OBD2 port and download the app to you phone. Get all the codes and internet research in one, plus see engine manager info on some models.

They're not expense and are available on Amazon. This is similar the one I have. and there are a lot of options out there.

This.

As a Toyota tech we had to do this all the time.

This shit is magic. Highly recommended for your new gasket material: Genuine Toyota Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDDTV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cA3aBbQ7M9372

I don't know how air bubbles get trapped at the bottom of the radiator and I never serviced coolant before. I have this obd2 scanner and it only reads coolant temperature from ECT #1 unless in a freeze-frame report where both #1 and #2 are recorded. Is there an app that can monitor both sensor temperature?

I suggest this as it can scan ABS and SRS codes and live data monitoring. I have this in my work truck at all times, just in case.

Autel MaxiLink ML619 CAN OBD2 Scanner Code Reader +ABS/SRS Diagnostic Scan Tool, Turns off Engine Light (MIL) and ABS/SRS Warning Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072XH9GLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TLgoDbWN50SAF

I’m not a fan of the phone adapter ones myself, but I’ve heard some people like this with similar options

BlueDriver LSB2 Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5OgoDb6XGEKRR

You can get the lower tier options that can only read/erase codes but have no SRS/ABS ability for under $50.
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K2goDb06ZB4RZ