That's awesome, glad you are joining the club! I'm happy to help so by all means ask away:

>Did you individually lube every single switch?

Yeah I lubed every switch (104 total) as I felt it was necessary. Most people lube switches to increase smoothness or to change the sound or feel of a key press, however I did not really notice an increase in smoothness myself as I am still quite a novice myself when it comes to stuff like this. The main reason I did it was because I kept hearing a noticeable "pinging" sound coming from the springs of each switch. Adding lube to the top and bottom of the spring eliminated this sound, and since the switch was opened, I lubed the stems and housing because I might as well do it for the experience. If you're interested in how to do it, here is a very helpful guide to lubing switches by Nathan Kim: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSgPKPoFo2k

​

>If so that’s crazy, is there a tool on how you can do that in a fast manner?

\>>Here<< is a time stamp of two ways to open a switch. The first one is the method I used as using a switch opener was very fast and ergonomic for my hands. If you don't want to buy a switch opener, you could use the flathead screwdriver method as stated in the video, however it seems very time consuming and difficult but you save money. The opener in this video is cheap but I personally used the KBDfans switch opener.

Cheap switch opener
KBDFans switch opener (also available on their aliexpress storefront)
There are other switch openers out there of different material and prices, but they are ultimately all the same and serve the same purpose

​

>What lube did you use

I used Krytox 204 found on NovelKeys but as I am seeing right now they are sold out. The places I check that have lube are sold out or are extremely expensive, so I'll list the only places I know that sell em.

Switchmod is a great place to get em
Expensive ZealPC lube and usually high shipping rates

See if you can find Krytox or Christo Lubes on Amazon or Ebay. Here are also some guides/discussion for each lube:

Krytox Lubes
Christo Lubes

​

>and how long did that take

Hoooo boy. Depends on how good you are and how big your keyboard is. Since I'm a noob and it's 104 switches, it took about 3-5 hours IIRC. I concentrated during the first few switches but it eventually became repetitive so I started watching Twitch and YouTube. I got distracted easily so that probably contributed to the increase in time. YMMV depending on how good you are, how distracted you get, how many switches you lube, etc.

​

>I searched up if the stabilisers were good but it turns out the ones the GMMK came with aren’t the genuine cherry/GMk stabilisers. Which ones do I get if I wanted better ones as there are three options

The GMMK stabs are cherry style (have the + shaped stem) but yeah they aren't genuine ones. Most likely glorious did this to cut costs down. They are definitely lubed but idk if adding more lube would help make them less rattly as you may have seen in my sound test video.

So the stabs I got are from Novelkeys (found here). The GMMK only supports PLATE MOUNT stabs. You will need 1 6.25U plate mount for your spacebar and X number of 2U plate mount stabs for other keys, the value of X depends on your board size of course. If you're unsure how many you need, take off all your keycaps and count your 2U stabs to be extra sure.

I'm sure you probably know this already, but I'll include Nathan Kim's guide to clipping and lubing stabilizers as well.

​

>also how do you pop them off so I can replace them with clipped and lubed ones?

I also found this confusing, so recently I did my best to make a video with my potato quality camera that hopefully clears this up.

​

>I’m based in Aus so I got my GMMK from PCCG and it already came with gateron browns, are these okay? I’m mainly a person that plays games but I definitely do enjoy the typing feel so browns are a cool middle ground. What’s the difference between these and the speedy box royal switches you have?

Bare with me as I try to make this awful parallel. You know how some people can drink the same brand of coffee everyday for the rest of their lives, while others enjoy different brands, flavours, etc. of coffee either daily, or once in a while, etc. The point is everyone drinks coffee differently. It's the same with switches, everyone is different so everyone likes different switches. There's no such thing as the best switch (arguable) and no one but you really knows what is the best switch for you.

Gat browns are definitely one of the more common consumer switches and are a good starting point. Since the GMMK is hotswappable it would definitely be good if you looked into different switch types, but only if that is something YOU want to do. Glorious sells a switch pack filled with the most common Gateron and Kailh switch variants, and this would give you a good direction as to whether you prefer clicky switches, linear switches, or tactile switches. It also gives you variants of each switch type so you can see if you like heavier switches (dependent on springs), if you like the smoothness of one linear, or increased tactility in a tactile switch, or louder clicks in clicky switches, etc. Really the only way to know what you like is by trying different switches, however if you don't want to spend the money then that is also fine because Gateron Browns are a good switch regardless, and will definitely last you a long time.

You can also get switch testers for various other brands, like Cherry switch testers on Amazon (people say Cherry switches are less smooth than Gaterons but YMMV), or Ebay, Aliexpress, etc. for different prices with different switches included. Or you can custom choose switches on NovelKeys as they offer more variety.

(This is more or less my propaganda to get you to try more switches as I want people to be exposed to different switches)

​

>speedy box royal LMAO

Personally (and I say personally because people "experience" switches differently) I find that Gateron Browns have a lighter tactile bump later in the keypress, while Kailh Box Royals have a heavier tactile bump at the beginning of the keypress. These actually reflect in the force curves

Gat Brown force curve
Box Royal force curve

I find Gat Browns to be lighter overall in total actuation, but the Box Royals being box switches also add more stability to the keycaps (the caps wobble a lot less, but I don't notice this often). I enjoy both switches but I felt like trying some new tactile switch, hence why I bought the Box Royals.

​

Hope this nerd essay helps!

I have one. I like it. But I only like it because of the price tag; I make myself like it because of how it costs.

I was one of the people that sped down to fry's electronics on launch day and picked myself a cherry mx red version. I had never used mx red's before, but lately I have been getting into the CS:GO competitive scene and thought I could be in the top 5% if I bought reds. I have no idea why I would think this, but I did.

Now, before I get into the pro's and cons, let me preface this: I've bought 4 mechanical keyboards in the last year: so I'm not a noob with keyboards. I currently own a Quickfire TK, Blackwidow Ultimate 2013, Logitech G710+, and of course, the K70 RGB.
The OG keyboard (and probably my favorite to this day, is the Quickfire TK). It was small, light, never slipped, and always had a very bright backlight (this is important for later). The Blackwidow, also had a gorgeous backlight and this keyboard comes in a close second. Then the last 2 keyboard purchases I've made have since gone down-hill. I figured out I can't live without blue keys. Not reds, not browns, not blacks, hell, not even fucking turquoise.

Now this is probably a personal issue, but I can't live if I am not typing/gaming on blues. While writing this, I HAVE to look down while typing, and it is only on this keyboard. It just feels... weird. Something about blues on my fingers make my "keystrokes" more fluid. So enough with my personal problems with the keyboard, let's get on to the issues everyone has with the keyboard.

Pros:

• The wristrest. I bought this keyboard almost primarily for that. And I can say, that isnt really is a big deal, and I probably won't buy another keyboard without one.
  
• The software; I'm talking about features here. The UI is something different and I'll touch on that later. It really is feature-packed. With the API out there, and the helpful and supportive community, you an literally do anything. Yes, anything.
  
• Media controls. I never knew how much I liked/needed them. They are very useful for muting your mic/speakers for when your family comes in and you are in a skype call with your friends. (I mapped mine to mute my mic, not a native feature obviously).
  
  
• I like the brushed aluminum look, it is quite nice.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• The software; talking about the UI. It is atrocious, but I'm willing to ignore it sense after using it for awhile, it starts to make sense and isn't that terrible.
  
  
• The brightness. I find nobody touches on this, but I guarantee you'll notice it. It seems the LED's are dimmed by 50-75% on purpose. And no, I'm not exaggerating. Now I believe this is because the LED's are mounted within the switch to reduce ESD. However, I would almost want to risk ESD (I've never had a LED be a victim of ESD before), than to have them be less bright. Go pick one up, try it, and you'll automatically notice it on all the colors.
  
  
• No side USB ports / audio ports. Not a huge deal, but I enjoyed them when I was using my black widow.
  
  
• The corsair gaming logo doesn't really bother me, but it might bother you, so, I guess that's a con.
  
  
• The software..again, likes to freeze (pic below). Occasionally, the software won't crash, but the lights will just freeze. Whenever I press a key, it rainbows only that key, and as I'm typing this, a few of my keys are stuck mid-rainbow.
  
  
• I like the brushed aluminum for it's looks, but I don't like how I have to clean it every week or two. I do eat alot at my desk, but I always find hairs, food, and a little bit of coffee stains there. Nothing the keyboard can do about it, and not really a con, but just keep in mind that you will have to clean it alot.
  
  Conclusion:
  
  The keyboard is feature packed and has potential, although it just isn't there yet. I am very excited for a (hopefully) revision 2.0 of this. Essential, if Corsair came out with a razer blackwidow which had a wrist wrest and slightly tweaked the software, I would buy it. The keyboard currently is $133 on amazon for Cherry Blues. At this price, I would say it's worth it to atleast tinker around with. It is a nice keyboard, and I think I will continue using it, however, once again, it needs work.
  
  If you can pick it up for $133 or less, and you aren't going to spend your money on anything better, atleast give it a try; Maybe you'll like it.
  
  I hope you found this informative and useful :D
  
  album

Is Preonic worth the investment?

I have a Planck rather than a Preonic but OLKB designs sturdy and reliable boards that are also very interesting.

I honestly think the Planck is like twitter. Having a very low word (key) count makes people more creative in how they express themselves. The Preonic is more like tumbler where more things can be done more easily.

Moving keys to other layers is fine due to the extra thumbable keys on the bottom row. The Preonic doesn't require as many layers because it has so many more keys, so the extra thumb keys aren't really necessary.

That said, it's a nice compromise.

Is it a good build for a beginner?

It's the same difficulty as any other keyboard build that has PCB components soldered on. All you have to do is add switches and through-hole solder them. It's definitely a fine way to learn to solder as long as you follow a few rules.

Most keyboard kits come this way with the exception of those like the Lets Split which you have to solder diodes and a promicro onto also.

The only thing More difficult is getting a PCB printed and buying diodes, resisters, and chips from DigiKey and then using a heat gun or oven to cook all the little things on.

What is a good soldering station?

Cheap ones will work fine. People around here seem to like the Hakko 888d which is what I use. The cheaper ones like this will also work fine. The extra $80 doesn't change much about how you work. Turn on the iron, heat stuff, sponge occasionally, don't touch it to your skin, then put it away safely.

Soldering rules for beginners

1. Don't hold the heat on any part for more than 5 seconds. If it starts looking like a mess, go solder other parts and let things cool off before coming back to fix it. Don't freak out about the speed, just be deliberate and have things ready before you start applying heat
   
2. Use leaded solder because it's much easier to melt and manipulate
   
3. Use rosin core, no clean solder so you don't have to futz around with flux or flux cleaner
   
4. Put the iron down when you're not using it. It is shaped like a pencil and we humans like to tuck those between fingers while manipulating things. Do not do this.
   
   There are a lot of little things to do to maximize soldering experience. You'll figure these out over time. I thing this short list is enough to keep your board intact and blood in your body.

I kinda know what you mean about Browns. I tried them at a store and they just don't sit right with me, but I think (for me) it's more because they felt kinda...lame? I started using Blues on a Das and then tried Blacks for a white and tactiles just felt like an uncomfortable middle ground. That's all opinion though, and why recommending switches can be hard.

I have a little spiel about Topre I like to throw out every time someone asks about them...
>Topre switches don't really compare to a Cherry MX switch. Some people will say they're like Cherry MX Browns or Blues but that kind of comparison doesn't really do it justice. It's really a unique switch. If you're using a tactile Cherry switch, all of them have their tactile point around the middle of the key press. Topre have them at the top of the key press and once you pass that point it's smooth as silk all the way to the bottom. It's also a fairly quiet switch. Cherry MX switches tend to me fairly loud if you're bottoming them out and with the way they're designed you're not really suppose to. Topre switches bottom out with a soft "thock" noise, and they can be a little difficult to NOT bottom out. Unlike a rubber dome or even Cherry MX board, bottoming out a Topre switch is fairly soft if you're typing "properly" (not jamming on the keys very hard). They even make a Type S "silent" switch which makes bottoming out Topre's even quieter.

If that sounds appealing then you might actually like Topre. Originally I didn't think you would because you weren't too keen on Browns. On the HHKB...I dunno if I would go that big immediately. I like my HHKB, but I do think people revere the thing a little too much. The Type Heaven is a pretty easy way to see if you're actually going to like the switch or not, and if you don't then you're not stuck with pricey board. Topre is only going to get cheaper to try in the future, but the Type Heaven is easily the best way to try it out right now. I dunno who you were trying to buy it from, but Elite Keyboards sells it through Amazon. Probably the easiest way to buy it.

Black keycaps are a love/hate thing. I have blanks on my HHKB but I have lettering on my 104UB-DK, mostly because I doubt I could find replacement caps anyway. And they're expensive, being PBT and all.

I dunno either. I love my fullsize keyboards. There was a survey recently that had more people sing fullsize than TKL anyway so I guess it's just loud advocates. I do keep my keyboard and mouse on the same desk though.

If you wanna try Topre, I would jump on the Type Heaven over the HHKB. If you wanna try Greens, I would check out the WASD. If all else fails, you might just have to go with the Unicomp.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/46x3gs/guide_the_bottomfeeder_guide_to_mkb_shopping_ie/

This post is a great starting point for anyone buying a dirt cheap mech.

There are no perfect keyboards in this price range though. Like someone said before, you seem a bit too concerned about quality for someone looking at the absolute low end of the market. No 35$ keyboard will ever compare to something like a Filco. If you're buying litteraly the cheapest board, you will have to live with some compromises.

Fortunately, there are very few truly bad or unreliable mechanical keyboards out there.
Just choose a keyboard that:

• fits in your price range
  
  
• is the right form factor for you
  
  
• has the right switch type (generally you're looking at blue for clicky, brown for tactile, red/black for linear) - don't worry about switch brands too much, you won't really notice differences between the MX clone manufacturers on these budget keyboards, all switches are good enough, really
  
  
• has the features you want or need (such as NKRO, removable cable, backlighting...) - only you know what your priorities are, so make a choice accordingly
  
  
• is regarded as "not bad for the price" (most cheap mechs are) - this subreddit is a great source of information and should always be searched before making a decision, to see if people had any major issues or gripes with the board you're currently looking at
  
  If a keyboard fits these criteria it's probably a safe buy. Worst case scenario you don't like the keyboard, return it and buy something different.
  
  Also, don't forget about the used market! Buying a second hand mech is usually a pretty safe bet, if you can test it out before buying. If the keyboard is relatively clean and all switches work, it's often nearly as safe as buying new.
  
  While you can definitely be happy with a 40$ mech, I'd try and save up some more if I were you. I know from personal experience that might not be easy as a broke student, but buying a mid-range product can often be cheaper in the long run than buying a low-end one. If you can save up to 60$ your choices widen considerably. For that price you can get past most of the compromises you're forced to make on the very low end and can buy a keyboard that you'll be happy to use for a very long time and won't be looking to upgrade as soon as possible. Something like the Plugable 104 will, if the clicky blues are to your taste, provide an experience that matches and in some ways exceeds keyboards from popular gaming brands that cost twice or three times as much and should, if you take care of it, last you pretty much a lifetime.
  
  I know this might sound preachy, but I've been in a similar situation and firmly believe it's the right thing to do:
  
  rather than spending hours scouring the web for the best deals on a perfect 40$ mech that doesn't exist, go out and try to earn that extra 20$ or more, so you can buy something you'll be happy to own and use for years to come. It might sound hard, but is in fact very simple if you're committed and not afraid to ask around.

I am also looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard in that price range. Personally, I'm looking for either a 60% or tenkeyless, and brown switches. I don't care for backlight. I've got a couple in mind right now, was wondering you all had any input.

$130 [Poker 3] (https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Keycaps-Cherry-Mx-Blue/dp/B00W02J4DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488257829&sr=8-1&keywords=poker+3), of course
If only I could find it with browns. Classic starter for all enthusiasts, it seems.

$144 Filco Majestouch-2 Tenkeyless
The guide says this is a very premium experience, for whatever reason. comes in 10keyless and blank caps that I like.

$120 Tex Beetle
Very compact 66% keyboard, I particularly like the shorter spacebar and easily accessible fn key, as well as the aluminium build.

$140 - $150[WASD VP3] (http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-vp3-61-key-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html)
Incredibly customizable, you can choose any combination of colors for the keycaps, font type and location, even switch type across the keyboard. You can even have them engraved custom images on the keycaps, so much potential if you are into aesthetics. I'm very tempted, but it is the most expensive one and uses a plastic frame when I think I want metal. Do metal cases make a noticeable difference? It has a big brother with a backlight

$110 GLORIOUS RGB V2 This one seems almost too good to be true. Nice minimal aesthetics, aluminum case, rgb backlight, the whole package just looks so nice. Full sized keyboard only though, I wish so much it came in tenkeyless.
$125 KUL ES-87
I hear good things about this one, probably just excellent build quality. Nothing seems particularly remarkable, but there is something to be said for a simple, high quality experience.

$125 Varmilo VA87M
Another tenkeyless with a sleek minimal body and aluminum frame.

$115 MasterKeys Pro S
New in the coolermaster, looks very sleek and minimal with RGB backlight. Pretty cheap too, a good option. Has the gaudy CM logo over the super key. Caps can be replaced though.

$89 KBParadise V60
A mere 90 bucks, very sleek 60% board. Can come with front printed keys for that hyperminimal feel, hng. Uses Gateron switches instead of cherry, which I've heard from multiple sources feel "smoother", though no one seems to know why. If anyone has anything bad to say about this board, please tell me, because this is probably going to be the one I buy.

$139 Ducky One TKL
Ducky is highly touted by the MK community. This is a nice sleek rgb board, 10keyless. No logos or anything obnoxious, seems like a really good buy.


Bonus: Custom Color Keycaps
If I understand this correctly, looks like a fairly customizable full keycap replacement set for only $20. Lets you change the colors, print location and add blank keycaps pretty cheap. Anyone have experience with these guys?

Sorry this comment is so long haha. I could go on for hours about these stupid switches.

I mean, I have some SKBM White Alps(these are slit-less, like your damped whites) that still feel wonderful(a far cry from SKCM Whites, but still), and were very clean. I'd imagine a cleaning and a lube will help them greatly. End of life SKCM is still better than any current Matias or the most recent SKBM Alps that Matias are based off of.

If you used Tribosys 3204 on them, that could've contributed to the worse feeling as well. I personally haven't lubed any of my Alps switches besides a bit of dielectric grease to eliminate spring ping, and that's a 100% worthwhile thing to do to every switch ever imo. Alps switches much prefer dry lubes, and wet lubes like Tribosys or any other MX suitable lube makes them feel goofy.

Denture tabs can be found at any store, and they're made for dentures, but their oxidization works wonders on a whole lot of different things, just no metal. Think of them as OxiClean(the laundry kind) bit for plastics.

Basically, just take only the top housing and slider(don't forget to take out the dampening rubber tabs) and drop them in the denture tab solution, blowing the dust out first with canned air or a DataVac. Let them sit in there for a while, maybe not 12 hours for only a couple testers, but still a decent amount of time. Once they're done, just squeeze a tiny(barely coat the spring) bit of dielectric grease on each end of the spring and put em back together. If you're going to dry lube them, I wouldn't be able to give advice, as I haven't dry lubed, but I'm sure you can find a tutorial somewhere. They should be silky smooth after that.

As far as what you'll like in the Alps spectrum, it is very difficult to base it off of MX switches, as none have really done a good job at recreating Alps' feels. If you like tactility, I think Alps are the way to go, but for linears, MX are your better option. The designs of each switch are inherently tactile or linear respectively, so neither is a flat out better switch. Alps tactility(though I've heard the oranges feel a whole lot different, and I want some so bad!) is what you'll get from the white damped switches, as long as you can get them smooth, it's rounded and... elegant?(goofy word to use, but it makes sense) If you find buckling springs too loud, you won't enjoy Alps clicky switches. They're loud, but it's such a good sound. Honestly, if your favorite switch is Topre, you may like the cream and white damped more than most, as long as your examples are good. These are the closest to rubber dome I've personally felt in a switch, but they a still are noticeably mechanical.

That's actually a good ideal TBH as you run the risk of damaging the PCB way more than damaging the switches should things go south. Then if you end up lifting a few pads in the de-soldering or soldering process, you can always just jump them as long as you don't burn too many up. Worst case you fry a $20 KB which would suck, but not be a huge waste or anything for the experience you with de-soldering/soldering TBH.

I would clip & lube the stabilizers while you have it all apart, I'm sure those could use the help from that bad. Also most likely you will need to de-solder & remove the LEDs to get the original switches out so you can get enough in one color to cover the whole board & solve the rainbow LED problem while your at it too!

A few tips though, the lead free solder used on these mass produced boards has a pretty high melting point & is tough to get to flow. I highly recommend getting a cheap de-soldering iron like this or this for doing it, also solder wick is a must too. Then any joints that don't come completely clean on the first try, re-solder with leaded iron & repeat the de-soldering process on them. That usually helps to get any remaining lead free solder to move.

The other thing is to get yourself a temp controlled soldering iron. If you plan on getting into building boards I suggest something fairly decent like the Hakko FX888D, it's a little pricey but well worth it if you will using it alot. If you plan on only doing a few projects here & there, you could get away something a little cheaper like this. Anyways GL with the project & I hope to see a success post sooner than later! :)

If you're looking for a tactile switch then MX Brown isn't particularly tactile but you may like it, it's good to try a variety of different switches as well, so perhaps try getting a switch tester. However if you just want to get straight into getting a board, here a few options:

• the Magicforce68 has been a pretty good option for some time at £30 with Outemu Brown switches (Cherry MX clones)
  Link
  
  
• There's also the DREVO Gramr 84 with a similar layout, which I prefer to the Magicforce68 Link
  
  
• RK61 is another one available on Amazon, it's a 60% board so may take some getting used to coming from a full size board Link
  
  
• Aerocool TK50 is a full size board with MX brown clones Link
  
  It might also be a good idea trying to get a board with hotswappable switches, so that you can buy new switches in the future to swap in. There are also some good tactile vintage boards you can get, however prices for these may vary - Chyrosran22 on YouTube has a lot of videos about some really good vintage boards and does many overviews of different switches.
  
  Hope you're able to find a good board for a good price! - Just PM me if you wanna talk more.

Okay, so I just got a Ducky Shine 5 w/ blue switches. I am 100% sure your cube mates would string you up by your toes, so avoid blue (great for home though).

1st option - Novatouch TKL - I purchased a novatouch and put hypersphere rings on it. Without silencing, it is still pretty quite. So I would definitely recommend if you are looking for topre. I know you said no to mods, but it would hit right around the 200 mark if you also got the hyperspheres and less without. VERY nice for the office and it would not annoy anyone. Plus, if you decide you would like to mod down the road, it is a very customizable board that will accept all MX and Topre key switches.

Novatouch TKL - https://amzn.com/B00MY3S288
Hypersphere Rings
Guide - http://imgur.com/gallery/iGzCV

2nd option - HHKB2 - I don't have one, but this will be my next purchase. It's $200, so a little expensive, but from what I can tell you are getting what you pay for here. It's not silent, but quiet. You can still do the same mod down the road if you are looking to make it even more quiet. They do have a type-s where it's silenced at the factory, but that would be closer to the $300 mark. One thing to really take note of and think hard about is the layout. You are definitely losing some keys, so you will be hitting the function key quite a bit. Not sure how that would effect you since you are a programmer.

https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=pfu_keyboards,hhkbpro2&pid=pdkb400b

3rd option - Ducky Shine 5 w/ Brown - The other option would be something like this keyboard. Full keyboard with all keys, RGB which you would probably want set to white or off since it's in the office. It will be louder since it's a MX, but brown should not be TOO bad. You will need to get some O rings though. That will help with sound dampening. Super easy to put on and nothing like the hypershere rings.

Ducky - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1365
O Rings - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1219

Take you time and if you have a microcenter close by, go try some keyboards out and see which one fits you best. Topre will be the most quiet, MX brown/Red/Clear will be mid level with o rings, and star away from blues/greens.

Hope that helps! :)

In my experience the keyboard itself comes down purely to personal preference, i.e. the design, material, key caps, brand etc. That is also what makes up most of the price other than features like wireless.

The thing that is gonna make or break your keyboard are the switches.

If there is nowhere where you can go and try out the keyboards in person, the next best thing to do is buy a Cherry MX Switch Tester

I have tried Blue, Red, Brown and Romer-G switches personally, and if you want to go by my opinion, then definitely go for either Blue or Red depending on whether you like clicky buttons or smooth. People say that Blue are better for typing and Red are better for gaming. Personally, I find both great for either task, just depends on your preference, again.

Brown and Romer-G (the ones on Logitech Pro Keyboard), which are very similar, feel mushy to me, kind of like pressing on crumpled foil, which to me is unpleasant especially for daily use.

My experience with different switches:


Logitech Pro was the last keyboard that I bought, using a Filco Majestouch 2 with Blue switches before that which I used for like 5? or more years.

Eventually I wanted a new keyboard and since I am big into gaming I decided to buy it because of it's reported amazing performance. At first it wasn't so bad and I got used to it, but eventually there was an accident and the keyboard ended up basically done for (my fault, nothing to do with the quality of the keyboard itself).

Needing a keyboard fast, I borrowed one with Red switches from a friend of mine and holy shit the difference was like night and day, like going from 30 fps on console to 144 on PC. I decided to buy a Filco Majestouch 2 keyboard with Red switches for myself and now I get excited whenever I need to use it just like when I got my first one with Blue switches.

Red switches are my personal favorites right now.

(If you are highly considering going for Browns instead of Reds I would recommend somehow borrowing a keyboard with Brown switches and using it for a day, then switching to Red and seeing how it goes. I personally didn't notice that much of a difference when trying both switches briefly, which can end up making you regret your choice like me)
___

As for recommendations:

For gaming I would 100% recommend a Tenkeyless keyboard. The key layout is different on keyboards with smaller sizes, which means that your muscle memory will need to adjust. Personally, I would not be willing to go through that, but if that is not a big deal for you and you're sure that you won't need the missing keys (arrow keys can be useful for things like even basic text editing in notepad or scrolling through search options in Google), then I don't see an issue with going with a smaller size.

A wired keyboard that I would recommend is Filco Majestouch 2

If you need a wireless keyboard then I would recommend Corsair K63

In terms of Cherry MX switches for an absolute beginner -

For gaming you want a linear switch for faster click registration and easier key presses. (Cherry MX Red)

For typing you want a clicky, tactile switch so you can feel the key presses and possibly make less mistakes. (Cherry MX Blue)

Cherry MX Browns are usually the middle-ground and preference for people who don't like the loudness or the full tactility of the Blues, but still want some tactility over the linear Reds. It does well for both typing and gaming.

Different manufacturers (Cherry, Kailh, ALPS, Zealios, etc) will sometimes call their switches different colors but the consistent factors are usually tactile, linear, or clicky. It can seem kind of crazy at first with all the different names but as long as you can recognize the base type of switch that you want, everything else will follow pretty easily.

The second common factor is switch weight, this is very much subject to personal preference so I would highly suggest trying some sample switches first but even then it doesn't really compare to using a board full of them. For my own personal experience I've tried all different kinds of weights and while I like the feel of heavy switches a lot, I don't think that they hold up to extended periods of use unless you reaaally like heavy switches. They can be tiring on your fingers and it's not something I think most people would enjoy powering through. There's not really any benefit to going heavier other than your own personal enjoyment so if you feel like it would take getting used to, I would just go with the regular weight switches.

If you're wondering why Kailh in particular, the switches that they make are very similar to Cherry MX's but they're smoother and just feel so much better than their Cherry MX counterpart (Most Kailh switches are named the same as the Cherry MX versions). They also have a new-ish version of their switches called the BOX and all you really have to know about the BOX vs regular is that the BOX's just feel smoother than the already smoother regular Kailh switches.

If you're going to be gaming and typing I would go with the Kailh BOX Browns, it's the same thing as the Burnt Oranges just not so heavy. :
https://novelkeys.xyz/products/kailh-box-switches

Please also be aware that you can't hot-swap switches in the KBparadise V80 and if you get the Kailh's you either have to solder them into a board or buy a hot-swappable board.

This Team Wolf Zhuque board, although not the prettiest with the lights on, is really well built and the metal casing really makes a difference in how your keys feel. It is hot-swappable meaning you can just use the included tool or tweezer out the switches and swap them to whatever you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538166099&sr=8-1&keywords=team+wolf+zhuque

The only other hot-swap board on the market I'm aware of is the twice as expensive and half as built Glorious PC Gaming Race board. It looks nicer and it's full RGB but the plastic housing feels very cheap compared to the Zhuque.

To sum it up real quick, if you're going with KBparadise V80 go with Cherry MX Brown. If you're going with the Kailh BOX Browns get the Team Wolf Zhuque.

tldr; get an HHKB

If you want RGB Lighting: Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro L: I don't know what Switch type you want, but it comes in 3 switch flavors, Cherry Blue, Red, and Brown.

If you don't really care about lighting Ducky: Anything from Ducky is great for non RGB Lighting, and you can generally find them with Any switch that is Cherry. I didn't specify any keyboard in the search so you could figure out which one you might like best.

If you want cheap + good switches Magicforce 108 Gat Blues and Magicforce 108 Gat Browns will be your best bet. Gateron actually makes some really nice Cherry knock-off switches, and so I'd recommend Gateron Switch keyboards.

My personal preference in these boards would be the Masterkeys Pro L, it'l be the next board I upgrade to after I find the money to buy it. My Corsair Strafe works really nicely, but... it restricts me in future Keycap buying endeavours.

WSIG: Mechanical Keyboard for Work

---
I am looking for a mechanical keyboard to use at work.

I purchased a CM Storm Quickfire XT with Cherry MX Brown switches for my home about 2 years ago. I enjoy typing on the keyboard, but I have a couple of concerns with bringing a mechanical keyboard into the office.

Keep in mind that I am still new to mechanical keyboards and I'm pretty sure I still don't understand all the different switches (even after reading the extensive wiki here).

My first concern is noise. There is another employee in the office with their own mechanical keyboard that has blue switches. Being that I can hear them across the office, I have to rule out blue switches from the start.

My second concern is tactile feedback. From what I understand, I believe the Brown switches I have provide a tactile feedback for typing, but I don't actually enjoy the feedback that it provides. I think what I want going forward is a keyboard that is quiet and smooth to type on, but I don't need a clicky or tactile feedback to let me know that I pressed the key.

I'm located in the USA. I type about 120 WPM (just switched to Dvorak), so I can be pretty loud when I get going with my emails or other work. I'm looking to spend less than $150, but if your suggestion is just slightly over that, it's fine. Arbitrary cutoffs bother me, :) I would like the keyboard to be full sized, as well.

From my own brief and uneducated search, I believe Black or Red switches would be good for me. However, as I stated before, I'm very new to this area so any and all suggestions are much appreciated!

Thanks for your time and help! Let me know if you have any other questions.

EDIT: Backlit is not a necessity at all. It would be purely bonus. I would actually pay less to not have backlit.

num pad is a good club to be in; a lot of people swear by them. My first custom build was the [prime_L]
(https://www.primekb.com/collections/keyboards/products/bundle-save) from primekb. It's a smaller form factor than a traditional full size, but packs in everything I needed and then some into the same size as my MF68. I'm really glad I picked it up, it's a wonderful board.

If you're going with a prebuilt, i'm gonna stick with my [Magicforce] (https://smile.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510117294&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=magicforce+87) recommendation, but the larger board with Gateron browns. It has the num pad you're looking for, back lighting (makes late night gaming sessions far more doable) and lighter tactile switches that aren't as noisy as the blues. There are others out there, but Qisan really does make a great board for the money.

If you want to spend a little bit more, I think the [Vortex ViBE] (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2937) looks fantastic. If I hadn't decided to build the Prime_L, this was the board I had my eye on. I've not used it, but there's a good [review here] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RphNQVOKmgs&t=2s) that Rhinofeed did. Vortex makes some of the best prebuilt boards out there, so you really can't go wrong with their products.

If you decide you want to build something yourself let me know and i'll give you a few more recommendations and pointers.

Hello, guys. New to the mechanical keyboard scene and looking help with deciding on which I should get first among the four that interest me the most!

1. Topre Heaven
   
   
2. Topre Realforce
   
   
3. Das Keyboard
   
   
4. Unicomp Model M
   
   This keyboard will be mainly used in an office setting so it would help if the keyboard I get won't be too loud.
   
   I'm leaning a lot more on the Topre Heaven keyboard but I've done some research and it looks like PBT keycaps make a lot of difference that the Heaven doesn't have but the Realforce does.
   
   The realforce I linked is the style that captured my eyes the most but I couldn't find more info on this specific type.
   
   The Das keyboard is also a strong competitor since I've always wanted one and at a lower price point, it is very tempting. Aesthetics wise, I do think that the topre realforce one looks much sexier.
   
   The Model M I believe would be the noisiest one in this bunch. If anyone has any feedback on this that would be great.
   
   And that's it! Any help would be appreciated!

If you really don't care for features, and want blues, there's a few options. It really depends how much you want to spend. The KB below are kinda starter/non-enthusiast boards (with maybe the exception of the corsairs), which doesn't mean they're bad, just that they are what most people are looking for (simple, clean, cheap, and sturdy). You could get other boards for around $150 that are a bit fancier, but it sounds like you just want a KB that works.

This is an decent board, but there are better ($139) -

http://www.amazon.com/Das-Keyboard-Professional-Mechanical-DASK3MKPROSIL/dp/B008PFDUW2/

Corsair has some nice boards around this range, but they also have extra features, such as LEDs and media keys. I recommend the K70 over the strafe, but the K70 is out of stock for some options -

$115-130 - http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B014W1YUAS/

$150 - http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mechanical-Keyboard-Multicolor-CH-9000120-NA/dp/B014W1YLAM/

CoolerMaster has some really solid boards. I would recommend the CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire Ultimate if you want something that's good but not over the top, and doesn't cost you too much. The CM Storm QuickFire XT is a similar board, but without LEDs.

$108 - http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-Ultimate-Mechanical/dp/B00EJ8CKIY/

$98 - http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00DKXXABK/

Rosewill also has some nice boards, but they're a bit simpler. I recommend the Rosewill Mechanical Gaming Keyboard if you want something real simple and cheaper than most. The Rosewill Apollo is also nice, and has some LEDs if that's what you want

$80 - http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/

$94/114 - http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RK-9100xBBR-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00HA201UK/

Apologies for the lack or order and formatting, and let me know if you have any questions. The biggest thing for keyboards is that you like it though, so make sure you find one that appeals to you!

Depends on what you mean by best. There are so many great options. The QFR is a great cheap board. the Novatouch is great if you love Topre but don't want to get rid of the customizability. The KUL ES-87 is a very high quality board. Realforce boards are great if you love Topre. The Model M SSK is great if you love Buckling Springs but don't have the desk space for a full sized Model M. Don't even get me started on the custom TKLs...

This is my Full Metal Printed Filco Majestouch-2 TKL

I posted pictures earlier here:

http://redd.it/1i58od


It is made using the following:

1. Filco Majestouch-2 TKL [www.keyboardco.co.uk or Amazon.com]
   
   
2. MKC Silver Zinc Printed Cherry MX Keys [OEM Profile] (86 Keycaps)+(Aluminum Spacebar) [purchased via PM to feng @ geekhack.org ~ $215]
   
   
3. Vortex Aluminum Case (Grey)(Filco TKL) [http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/ | http://tinyurl.com/qa4htga]
   
   
4. 2x O-rings http://amzn.com/B0051XWXCE
   
   
5. Da Vinci Aluminum Poker 300 Chip Case http://amzn.com/B002P9YRN0
   
   FAQ:
   
   
6. Where did you get the non-standard size keys?
   The only way I was able to get the modifiers was to simply buy the entire 87 key set. I really wish I was able to buy each key I needed separately, I am now forced to sell my old zinc keycaps.
   
   
7. Are these keycaps available unprinted?
   Yes, They are also available unprinted. I posted pictures earlier of an unprinted set on geekhack when I ordered my keycaps. The aluminum case pictured below is a MKC case and is much more expensive then the Vortex. http://i.imgur.com/BMf6cQ5.jpg
   
   
8. How do you like typing on the Zinc Keycaps?
   Currently it's like typing on "light blue" as the wieght of the keys lightens the actuation force required. I also added o-rings http://amzn.com/B0051XWXCE (be sure to order 2 sets) to give it a bit of a bounce when it bottoms out which is great as I type heavy. The noise it makes is distinctive and satisfying even with the o-rings.
   
   
9. Do they make your fingers smell like metal?
   The green fingers and distinct smell of zinc keys are from unplated zinc keycaps and since these are plated it is not an issue.
   
   
10. Do fingerprints or dust show more easily on these?
    I can usually wipe off any residue with my fingers. Zinc keycaps are fairly resistant to marks or stains and very easy to clean as well. The plated metal does not show any noticeable fingerprints and it is very difficult to see any fingerprint residue even in the brightest of lights. No matter which keyboard you own be sure you have some isopropyl rubbing alcohol available for cleaning up.
    
    
11. How much did your Full Metal Filco Cost?
    $215 Keycaps $150 Case $150 Keyboard $16 O-rings. I will hopefully be able to sell the Ninja keycaps and Filco case and other accessories that I accumulated to help fund part of the cost. All items I currently have available will be in my Album http://imgur.com/a/5tsOm or on /r/mechmarket

Well, someone will inevitably point out to you all the guides on the sidebar. But having said that, it's a tricky thing to advise on because everyone likes different things.

Since it's your first keyboard, you'll want to really improve the quality of life. A few tricks I recommend:

1 - Lube your switches. This requires you to disassemble them (not difficult), which you can attempt to do with a small screwdriver, but you risk damaging them. A switch opening tool ($7 USD and free shipping) will make all the difference in the world. There's certainly more detailed guides for this, and I'll try to limit the scope of this thread, but regardless of what switches you've got, you want to lube them. If you're not sure what lube to use, this is a good starting point.

2 - LUBE YOUR STABILIZERS. This will be different from lubing your switches. You want to use a thick material, such as dielectric grease, as it is safe for plastics, won't dry out or shrink, and lasts a long time. Crappy/wrong lube will break down over time, and then before you know it you'll have rattling stabilizers. Dielectric grease is not expensive - do it right. If you're not sure how to clip and lube your stabilizers, watch this video. On that note:

3 - Get better stabilizers. If I remember right from my KBD75 kit, the stabilizers they include are Chinese clones. Don't use these. They will rattle no matter how well you lube them, and the feet aren't capable of being clipped like genuine Cherry ones. Don't make the mistake of thinking it won't be that big of a deal. Once you've assembled the board, you'll only be able to change them by desoldering the entire thing. I've made the mistake - so have plenty of others. Get the right stabilizers. Get these (you will want PCB mount stabilizers).

4 - Band-aid mod. Put little strips of fabric band-aid in the space that will be underneath the stabilizer housings. This will make it so the stabilizer stems don't clack down hard onto the PCB. Here is a visual example of what I mean.

5 - Practice soldering first, or watch some videos (or both). Don't risk melting a switch or burning out your PCB. If you've not done some soldering before, start practicing now. It can be done with a really cheap soldering iron, but make sure you know what you're doing.

6 - Only use leaded solder. Don't go with lead-free solder. It flows like crap, and is a huge pain in the ass to desolder later if you have issues. And rosin core is essential. If you need a suggestion, this stuff (in 0.8mm width) is great.

7 - Clean the flux off your board when you're done soldering. Get a cheap, soft bristled brush, and some 70% isopropyl alcohol. Dip the brush in the alcohol and gently scrub all the brown gooey stuff off the back once you're done soldering. This stuff can oxidize easily, and will lead to corrosion down the line if you don't take care of it. It's not water-soluble, so that's why we use alcohol. The alcohol will also dry residue free. Win-win.

8 - Put some cheap dampening agent in the case. Since it's a KBD75, you're gonna want that underglow visible so you don't want to use a thick foam. But something cheap like this will do wonders to absorb some of the ping and clack from the keys that is common with an aluminum case. Just line the bottom of the case and cut out the holes for the standoffs.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. You do this business, and you'll have a near endgame board right out of the gate. If you've got any additional questions, feel free to lob them my way.

So this past Saturday night I was browsing some reddit. I happened to stumble across this photo, which awoke a desire in me to own a mechanical keyboard. Until now I thought mechanical keyboards were just a gamer thing and the only style they came in was black keyboards with RGB flashing all over the place. But seeing that picture made me realize that there is a huge variety of ways you can aesthetically customize a board. So the past few days I've spent a lot of my spare time doing research and trying to decide what I ultimate want in my "dream" mechanical keyboard. I've ordered a cheaper mechanical keyboard off Amazon for now until I've settled on what I want.

Sorry for the story, I just thought it was worth mentioning and giving you my very brief history and knowledge of mechanical keyboards (or lack thereof). Anyway, I have two questions:

1. What are some quality 75% or higher keyboards with a completely compact design? By compact design, I mean no empty space between key groupings. Like this. I want f-keys and some kind of arrows (either actual arrow keys or a numpad with numlock). Preferably Cherry MX switches, or something that supports Cherry MX stemmed keycaps. I imagine I'm looking in all the wrong places, but I haven't seen many keyboards like that. The Red Scarf III Ver.A pictured above was part of a massdrop, and the Drevo 84 Key Gramr is a budget board. I assume the Noppoo Choc Mini 84 NKRO is my answer? Are there any others?
   
2. Where can I get my hands on a nice set of SA/DSA profile keycaps? I'm in love with the Nantucket set, but they just wrapped up a groupbuy. The few times I've seen them on r/mechmarket they've either sold out super fast or are priced higher than I can comfortably pay for them. Royal Navy seems equally hard to hunt down. I also wouldn't mind a carbon/industrial look like the GMK Carbon set. I know that pimpmykeyboard has some SA and DSA sets, but I'm not too fond of any of them (and if I'm going to be spending $100+ on a keyset, I want to be happy with what I get).

Well, without going past $130 you're not gonna get something flashy looking, especially factoring in a wrist rest on top of it. Tell you what - I've got an extra wrist rest I never use, I can send it over to you. Go ahead and PM me your address and I'll shoot it over to you. It's not as long as a fullsize is, but it'll work for putting your left forearm on it for gaming. That'll take a considerable amount of the cost out.

Then, if you can swing it, go for a Ducky Shine or Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro L. They're both full size, RGB, and great quality - very commonly recommended in this sub. If you don't want to spring for the quality, you can find something cheaper like the Plugable keyboard - very cheap, but has clicky keys (cherry mx Blue, not Brown). Got this one for a buddy's birthday and he's loved it for over a year. As far as non-cherry/gateron switches go, Outemus are trustworthy for sure and that's what this one's got.

I need help making a purchase decision. I bought my first mechanical a few months ago. It was a $40-something off-brand with Outemu blue switches, and OH MY GOD was it a breath of fresh air compared to the mushy swamp keyboard I'd been struggling with since college. Clickety clackety never going backety.

Now I want to replace my work keyboard. I prefer something sedate and professional looking, and I really like having a number pad. I've pretty much settled on Cherry brown switches this time, but I'm tossing around a couple of different models in the sub-$100 category. The thoughts of /r/mechanicalkeyboards are welcome:

• Rosewill RK-9000. A pretty popular entry-level board, and I know the brand.
  
• CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire XT. CM's seem to have a decent reputation at this price point, and I've read rumors that the QuickFires are made in the same factory as some Filco models.
  
• iKBC C104. This is the model I'm most curious about. It looks like a nicely built keyboard with higher quality key caps, but I can't find much information about the brand other than some references to a MassDrop sale a while back. What's the deal here?
  
  Thanks!

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

• Duck Sidewinder
  
  Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)
  
  
• GMK Screw in Stabalizers
  
  
• Permatex Dielectric Grease
  
  
• Orings
  
  Switches: Holy Razers
  
  
• Greetech SMD RGB bottoms
  
  
• Outemu ICE V2 tops
  
  
• Halo True stems
  
  
• Krytox 205 GPL 0
  
  Butyl Rubber
  
  
• Non Adhesive for the case
  
  
• Adhesive for the spacebar
  
  Keycaps:
  
  
• Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set
  
  I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.
  
  I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.
  
  As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.
  
  I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)

To address the number pad/macro pad element of this search, I would suggest a 75-100% keyboard as this range tends to have a number pad. If a macro pad is a must, you could take a look at software that could trigger macros from your number pad (kind of like an IME or something of the sort).

If you're playing OSU and FPS the most, I would recommend a keyboard with MX Red switches. Although they aren't the best things on earth to code on, nor are they the best to play MMORPGs on, I can speak from experience when I say that they certainly get the job done for long typing hours due to their light actuation force and are great for gaming as that's what they were designed for. In fact, this entire comment was typed on them and I found it to be quite enjoyable. You learn the actuation force pretty well with time so bottoming them out all the time really isn't an issue. However, most boards have MX Brown and MX Blue variants, so if you find that you enjoy one switch more than the other there's always a little room for adjustment prior to purchase.

With these constraints being taken into consideration, a search or two returned recommendations along the lines of:
CM Storm QuickFire TK
Leopold FC900R Black PBT Mechanical Keyboard
Red Scarf III Ver. A (Please note that this is a DIY board and will not be available for a considerable amount of time)
CM Storm QuickFire XT

And Topres, if that's your thing and you have the money to spare:
Topre Realforce RGB Premium Mechanical Keyboard

EDIT: Formatting

How good?

Here is one that will last you pretty much for whatever no matter what you do with it, its the soldering iron I have used for the past several years and has been great on a number of projects: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/

Here is one that will do just fine but isn't great or anything:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC

The most important feature for a good soldering station is variable temperature.

The only other things you will need is solder:
https://www.amazon.com/WYCTIN-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-11lbs/dp/B071G1J3W6, a solder wick: https://www.amazon.com/MIYAKO-Desoldering-Wire-Handy-Dispenser/dp/B010VMHR5M, and possibly wire cutters if you don't have them: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Some personal advice is get the best one you can afford if you thing you will use it a lot, the difference between a okay one and a great one is huge. I hated soldering till I got a good iron.

Did you ever type on a mechanical keyboard? The first time I tried one I was immediately faster while typing and it felt amazing.

Programmability and therefore macros seems to be standard most of the time, even my 25€ board could program every single key to my liking.
The Vortex Race 3 I bought supports macros of up to 32 keystrokes. The reason I bought a 75% keyboard over an even smaller one is so I can use the F-Row for gaming macros.
I can't imagine the left row of dedicated macro keys on the horde to be very comfortable to reach.

I don't want to put you off of your decision, but I'd highly encourage you to check out the other options you have with 100€. If you still find the horde to fit your needs the best, than it is still a great decision for you.

Edit:
Check out the Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro L

Or the hyper X fury alloy

Both are decent full size gaming keyboards and if you've got the spare money they are also available as RGB.

Amazon reviews can be a good indicator. Out of 1,539 reviews (which is a lot for a mechanical keyboard), it gets 4.3 out of 5 stars. 65% are 5 stars and 15% are 4 stars. You may still want to check out the 1-star and 2-star reviews to see if any glaring problems come up. $86.50 seems like a good price for a board with Cherry browns. Link

The keeb in your ebay link is "Manufacturer refurbished: An item that has been professionally restored to working order by a manufacturer or manufacturer-approved vendor. This means the product has been inspected, cleaned, and repaired to meet manufacturer specifications and is in excellent condition. This item may or may not be in the original packaging. See the seller’s listing for full details." $58 seems like a great price if you trust the refurbishing process.

I'd pass on it honestly, the description is sketchy since their describing what sounds like blues yet what their selling is a red switch, it uses the new style outemu red switches that have a boxed design that's supposed to keep dust out of the switch, honestly I have never had that problem though... outemu switches are not the best though, well their blues are amazing but all of their other switches are on the "meh" side, if you want a better switch experience you should go for something that has Gateron Switches, since Gateron has by far the smoothest linear switches (Assuming your looking for linear switches as you say in the op)

Also the board you linked seems to require software to drive the leds and other features, that is generally annoying since there's another thing that needs to be constantly opened in the background and if the app breaks or something and the devs don't want to update it your board is as good as dead and your down to a basic keyboard.

Honestly you would have more options if you where willing to go TKL, like the Drevo Calibur 71 or the Magicforce 68, best I could find you for basic backlit full size boards are as follows :

1. Magicforce 108 (Fullsize 108 key, Gateron Red, White Backlighting, Media Controls) - https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HGI7YN4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492312737&sr=8-3&keywords=magicforce+108
   
   
2. Plugable Mechanical Keyboard (Fullsize 104 key, Outemu Blue, White Backlighting) - https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Mechanical-Enthusiasts-Backlighting-Double-shot/dp/B01MA6O13L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492313246&sr=8-1&keywords=plugable+mechanical+keyboard
   
   
3. E-Element Z88 (Fullsize 104 key, Outemu Blue, Swappable Switches, RGB Backlighting) - https://www.amazon.com/E-Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXBZXFC/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1492313383&sr=8-21&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+rgb
   
   Basically the last one was my "if all else fails" since you can swap them easily without having to solder.
   
   Edit: All of the above are $50+, your probably not going to find a higher quality fullsize board with RGB for less than that, if your still constricted to your budget you should consider buying a second hand mechanical keyboard.

Looking to buy my first mech keyboard, preferably less than $140 AUD, that has white or blue backlighting, is full sized, has a standard key layout and has Cherry MX Browns. I'd also like something not too flashy.

I had my heart set on this, but the price has gone back up. I looked around Amazon and saw this, does it look like a good one? And if not, does anyone know of any good alternatives?

I was originally planning on buying from an Australian store, but some keyboards on Amazon US with shipping are cheaper than in Australia without shipping. Thanks Australia tax...

I want a full keyboard that is backlit and has media keys. I'm willing to surrender the media keys if it really limits my choices but back lit is almost necessary.

What i've liked so far:

http://www.daskeyboard.com/daskeyboard-4-professional/ (Isn't back lit so might be a deal breaker)

https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/glorious-modular-rgb-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-barebones This one by far is my favorite.

This one has some merits:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Mechanical-Enthusiasts-Backlighting-Double-shot/dp/B01MA6O13L/?tag=b3J7sB2xVOf2-20


I really don't understand the difference between the super expensive keyboards and the cheaper one. Can someone give me a better rundown?

edit: looking for brown switches.

i would order a switch tester like this one before buying a completely new keyboard, just so you can get a feel for what kinds of switches you like. i personally like cherry browns, but they are pretty easy to press, so you might find them too sensitive, too loud, or not tactile enough since you're coming from a standard rubber dome keyboard.

generally on this sub, gaming brand keyboards like corsairs and razers aren't recommended for various reasons. unless you're specifically in need of a white keyboard, you could find keyboards from other brands that offer much better value for your money, such as a ducky or an ikbc.

So, I've been trying to find a mechanical keyboard for when my silicone dies, but I'm kinda picky so this might be a bit over specific. Does anybody know of a good mechanical keyboard that has:

• Media keys (I can live without these if it has the others)
  
• 10-key
  
• Any switch besides black or red
  
• is back light (preferable with blue as an option)
  
• Isn't just the generic rectangle shape
  
  I like some character in my keyboards. This is the best I've found so far, and was wondering if anybody knows of something else that fits the bill.
  
  Thanks for any help in advance!

I was messing around with the WASD V2/Code and this would be my ideal color scheme. However, I also like any greyscale color schemes as well. Never had a mechanical keyboard before so I'm not attached to any profiles (unless you have a recommendation I am open).

I looked around for Ducky Ones but it seems their website is only informational? Couldn't find another source that had the MX browns and full size.

I am unfamiliar with anything relating keys so you would have to help me there haha.

Thanks again for all of the help so far.

Here's what I've found so far and like all of them

https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00EQV0W02/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474552702&sr=1-5&keywords=Cooler%2BMaster%2BMechanical%2BKeyboard%2Bbrown&th=1

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1395

http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-104-key-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html

I'm looking to buy one of the following keyboards, but not sure which one to get. All prices are Canadian dollars, so don't be alarmed if they seem high :)

1. $105.92 Ducky One Double Shot Blue LED Backlit - http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=34811142128
   
   
2. $120.99 Cooler Master MasterKeys L PBT - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072C516B9/
   
   
3. $119.99 MasterKeys Pro L Mechanical Keyboard with Intelligent White LED - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ITE93OM/
   
   

• The Ducky One is Double Shot. Which is better in your opinion - PBT or Double Shot?
  
• Is Ducky One a better brand than CM Masterkeys? Answer may seem obvious but I don't want to assume anything.
  
• The PBT Masterkeys will arrive the fastest, but has no backlighting and costs more than the Ducky One - is PBT worth the $15 price increase over double shot?
  
• The 3rd option is a backlit Masterkeys Pro but no PBT and will take the longest to arrive.
  
  I missed out on buying a $164.99 Ducky Shine 6 PBT Double Shot Black Keycaps RGB LED - would that have been the best one to buy? Price higher than the others was the only limiting factor.
  http://www.ncix.com/detail/ducky-shine-6-cherry-mx-7b-141351.htm
  
  Just throwing these Keyboards into the mix as well, you'll probably immediately disregard them but included them just in case:
  
  

4. $109.99 Corsair Strafe Red LED - https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX58570
   
   
5. $99.95 Logitech G610 Orion Backlit - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01CDYB8F6/
   

Looking at buying a new mechanical keyboard. I've owned a Corsair K90 for many years nw and have mostly loved it, but I think I would like something a little smaller and more "clicky" when typing.

I've been looking at tenkeyless keyboards with MX blue switches in the $100 $100-150 range. I primarily want to use it as a compact keyboard for typing. I've looked through the wiki and read some reviews but many of them were outdated/for older models. Through my research I found these 3 keyboards:

• Corsair K65 $69 (Not ideal as it has red switches and is basically a compact version of my current keyboard)
  
• Happy Hacking Lite2 $73 (I don't like the non-standard layout)
  
• CM Storm Quickfire Rapid-i $99
  
• MasterKey Pro S $113 (What's the difference between RGB and White versions?)
  
• Code Keyboard $140 (I read the key caps wear out quickly and become glossy.)
  
  
  Does anyone have suggestions to help convince me one way or maybe even introduce an entirely new option? Thanks!
  

I ordered a cherry mx tester beforehand to get an idea, This one to be exact (but it doesnt have silent reds, so I didnt know exactly what I was getting).

I also think that browns feel very mushy - to be honest they feel like rubberdomes. Its not a very clear tactile feeling at all. So browns and their stiffer ones were out of the race.

I did like the feeling of blues, greens and the white ones, but as you said they produce a hell lot of sound. And since I'm playing next to my girlfriend she gets really really really pissed with loud keyboards.

So I kinda liked the the reds and blacks on the tester since they are very silent and feel really high quality (compared to browns for example). I thought about getting black ones but decided that my pinky finger might be too weak to play multiple hours of dota haha. So I was searching for red ones, then found the silent red ones.

I gotta say they feel amazing. A lot better than Reds with O-Rings while being a lot more silent at the same time. Sound whise they are not a lot louder than my Apple Wireless Keyboard - and that is the most silent keyboard I know. Of course I don't have hundreds of hours with it yet but I can clearly say that these are keepers. I'm thinking about ordering a second Pok3r board with these for work (as seen in the image - the RGB one will travel home with me tonight :)) - And I am pretty sure that I will go for Silent Reds once more.

I can do a sound test if you like?

Every board has a metal plate so no worries there. For $100 and fullsized you could try the big Magicforce. Not 100% sure of it's quality, but having owned the smaller Magicforce 68, I think it was ok for the price. Magicforce is touted around here as being a pretty good fullsized board.

You can also check out the Masterkeys Pro L which is much more widely known and advertised. If you stretch your budget a bit more, you could have the RGB version but that's a bit pricey.

Any switches are good for typing considering people game and type on rubberdomes. Just figure out what you like. (Either in person, which I recommend, by going to a Bestbuy/ Microcenter or buy a switch tester, which is pricey and doesn't give you the full feeling.)

Well, a lot of folks on r/mk (myself included) seem to be in agreement that Gateron switches are better than Cherry, and those are "knock-offs" so I dont think anyone will downvote you for not buying "branded" switches.

The few people who have posted about their red dragon boards seem to like them, and as far as backlight goes, that aesthetic is up to you.

What country are you trying to buy this keyboard in? If you search mechanical keyboards on amazon, you see a bunch of cheaper options that do have numpads. If you want a mechanical numpad, jellycomb makes one for $20 USD.

Here is a TOMOKO with numpad for $55 https://www.amazon.com/TOMOKO-Mechanical-Keyboard-Resistant-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01IHVN4GA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478280296&sr=8-2&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+tomoko

Rosewill is $60: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2

If you really want a solid keyboard with a numpad, the coolermaster TK retails in the US for $80 https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L4C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478280161&sr=8-2&keywords=coolermaster+keyboard

The Ducky One is another great option if you can save up the $115

You can still use em with the FN layer.

I was also first sceptical about the 60% layout but after i build my own it works good. And also you pretty much only gonna use F5 and maybe F12 ( for BIOS or STEAM screenshots)

Out of all that you wrote i would go with the Magicforce with some nice Gateron Brown switches best bang for your buck.

Or the Drevo Gramr has F keys and for only 40€ good enough https://www.amazon.es/Drevo-84-Tenkeyless-mec%C3%A1nico-retroiluminado/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479331621&sr=8-1&keywords=Drevo+Gramr ( haven't found a portuguese amazon site) But it has Outemu switches not Gateron or MX but for that low of a price i think you can't make much wrong.

I am searching for a mechanical keyboard with RGB lightning and a NUMPAD...
I prefer brown switches, even tho I have never tested them. I only tested Razer Green and Cherry Red one and I didn't liked bouth. Blue, because I didn't liked the noisy sound and I didn't liked the Red ones, because I really need a feedback, when I click, but friends told me brown one switches are a good hybrid. I have 100€ to spend and I found the TT ESPORTS Poseidon Z RGB Brown Switch , Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L and the iKBC F108 RGB Double-Shot , but I still don't know if there are better keyboards one the market.
What do you think? Do you have any advices for me? Thanks!

Sorry for the repost...Didn't get the answer I needed :)

Topre keyboards are the closest I can think of. They're pretty much a crossbreed between MX blues and rubber domes, so you get the best of both worlds. Expect to pay a pretty penny, though. The cheapest Topre keyboard I can think of costs around $180(Though CM calls them "exclusive hybrid capacitive keyswitches"), and HHKBs (the most well-known Topre keyboards) usually cost over $200.

If you can't afford that, I hear that the MX browns give a tactile bump instead of the click that the MX blues have. The MX clears are the same type of switch, but they offer more resistance (Tactile force of 65 cN and actuation force of 55 cN, compared to the 45 cN actuation force of the browns). The KUL ES-87 offers a tenkeyless option (no numpad) with both MX browns and MX clears for $130, and for a full-size keyboard, the WASD CODE features MX clears for $150. I recommend getting a switch tester to see which fits best for you. I hope this helps.

Is there any general consensus on the Drevo Gramr 84 (Outemu Brown Switches) as to how good it is? I hear it's "pretty good for it's price", but I'm not sure if it's the "best" Keyboard I can pick up for that price range. (The often-recommended Magicforce 68 feels just a little too small for me; I really would like a dedicated Function Row and Escape Key). I hear people saying different things about Outemu; some say it's good, some say that they think they're bad. This would be my first Mech Keyboard, so it's not like I've been using Cherries or Gaterons or whatever for a long time and can easily "tell" the difference between the switches.

Also, are there any TKL Mechanical Keyboards with Brown Switches that I should consider (or if any exist...) around the ~$40-50 price range (on Amazon, US)? Drevo Gramr is 75% which I think I can work with (might need to do a little bit of brain rewiring for a week or so when using), but I'd prefer a "standard" TKL layout with some space between the Number Row and Function Row; the Insert/Delete/Home/End/etc. buttons grouped together slightly away from the Keyboard, the Arrow keys by themselves, etc.

Finally--anyone know how often these things go on "sale"? Being a Steam user, it's always about the sales on games which happen often and are heavy discounts...I don't expect any heavy discounts on this Keyboard, but even small discounts are savings. Any wild guesses on if potentially this Keyboard could go on sale (even by like $5-10), or if it's probably just going to stick at $40?

Yeah, but it's not worth it at that price.

About the switches:

Cherry MX Switches can be divided into two categories (concerning noise):

1. Quiet (linear/tactile): Reds, Browns, Blacks, Clears, Nature-Whites.
   
2. Noisy (clicky): Blues, Greens, Whites.
   
   This Magicforce (linear version, tactile version) is a great choice for new buyers: it's readily available on Amazon in a variety of switches, and it's relatively cheap. I'd recommend you skim over the Wiki (specifically the buyer's guide and common misconceptions), and if you have any more questions feel free to ask :)

I've had a Corsair Strafe RGB for a few years and have liked it, but am realizing I don't really use any of the extra features (the software to set custom lighting is a major pain, and keeping lights on seems to produce a light buzzing noise in my headphones so I've just been keeping it off). Also, for the first time in 20+ years, I spilled a little onto the keyboard - was working fine until I removed the spacebar to wipe it up and replaced it, then it had a problem spamming space for a while (unplugged and left it for the night), then briefly holding another key, but seems like it works fine now.

 

ANYWAY: Magicforce 68 or Plugable from the buying guide, any suggestions? I don't care at all about a backlight and realistically I don't think I need the tenkey. The Magicforce one does look a bit silly but pictures with replaced keycaps look pretty nice. Open to pretty much anything, those two just looked like great value

If you go gaming/typing 50/50, I would recommend browns. here is a guide though: http://i.imgur.com/GWfV3.gif

The Corsair RGB is nice but it's definitely on the expensive side even for mechs. Unless you are really into the lights I would suggest something else. The Ducky Shine 5 has great build and great coloring but is for a lot cheaper (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1366). The CM Storm Quickfire Rapid-i lights up as well but has a limited color selection. Instead, it has an affordable price of $99 which is less than half the corsair (http://www.amazon.com/QuickFire-Mechanical-Keyboard-ActivLite-Technology/dp/B00JM61264/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449133037&sr=8-1&keywords=quickfire+rapid-i)

Greetings,

Looking for help checking my work on keyboard research.

I'm looking to replace my creaky, decade-old Microsoft Ergonomic 4000 with a decent mechanical keyboard. Budget is unlimited. Here are my primary requirements:

• Full size with tenkey
  
• Backlit RGB
  
• Blue-style keys (I'm not picky enough to require Cherry, just want the click)
  
• Most importantly, Linux compatible; this almost certainly means hardware controls
  
  I have found a few keyboards that meet most of those requirements and offer full RGB, but the typical choices from Logitech, Razer and Corsair require custom software that doesn't play nicely with Linux. Here are the best options I have found:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014M8Z4E2
  
  This one from Azio has on board memory and customization through hardware rather than software, but the range of colors is limited and there is only one stored preset.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8ETGJ0
  
  This one from Coolermaster looks nicer and it has Cherry MX Blue keys, although I prefer the flat backplate on the Azio to the key wells on the CM. Still reading reviews on this one to see how flexible the hardware customization is. Looks like it might have more than one stored preset, which is my main issue with the Azio.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C8PHZMK
  
  This one from Gamdias also seems to have some ability to do hardware programming, but I'm not sure to what extent.
  
  Any other options I haven't considered?

If you're happy with ANSI layout and want a budget board, then any of the clone boards like the Qisan will be fine. Qisan also make the Magicforce which is a fantastic budget board owned by a lot of users here.

This is potentially an even better option, since it appears to have no non-standard keys (excluding right shift, which is easily replaceable) and is cheaper.

If you are looking for ISO Layout and don't mind spending, check out the Winkeyless B.Mini which can be built and customised to your liking :)

A good place to start looking would definitly be the board wiki
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/wiki_navigation

My suggestion would be to first find the size you want - full size, 60%, 75, planck etc.

Next find the type of switch you would like - cherry mx? Gateron? Topre? Dont know any of these - try to order a switch tester to see which one you like:
https://www.amazon.com/Akwox-Cherry-Switch-keyboard-Sampler/dp/B01GZHU1EG

Then find the things you would like on your keeb - LED's? Media Buttons? None of these?

Look at some popular keeb companies, see which one is right for you:
Leopold
Pok3r
HHKB
TADA
Varmilo

• some to get you started
  
  
  TLDR;
  Find switch you like > Find board size you like > Find cap layout you like > Find Caps you like > Find artisans you like > Cry because you have no more money

I've done two desolder jobs with this one and it is flawless and clean. Nice strong suction, but more importantly the exhaust is also equally forceful for when you need to eject the solder keeping the iron clean, and minimizing down time from cleaning. Really awesome and worth the premium.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJSG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With other Topre boards, you have the options of a Leopold FC660C(a compromise between TKL and 60%), Realforce 87U(considered one of the best quality Topre boards with a solid case as well as very good stock PBT keycaps), HHKB(the 60% of Topre, bit of an unusual layout that some people swear by), Topre Type Heaven (which is basically a budget full sized topre board)

The Novatouch is probably your best choice if you want to customise keycaps, considering other Topre boards have very limited keycap options unless you do some modding. If you don't care for keycap customisation, I would recommend you get a Realforce, their quality is undeniably amazing.

You really should have posted this in the sticky thread.

Masterkeys PBT L is the best sub $100 option. Plugable is the best sub $50 option.

You did not mention switches which are the most important part. Switch preference is highly personal, and there is no right answer. That said, most people tend to like Blues if they can tolerate the noise.

I do recommend dropping the number pad and going with a TKL or smaller. Few people really need a number pad, and smaller keyboards are much better for you ergonomically. In which case, consider the TKL versions of the 'boards already recommended, or a Rantopad MXX.

In general, Das, for some reason or another, tend to be a little high-priced for the quality of the board. They're not bad, but you can find better for simliar pricing.

That particular Das you linked to uses some off-brand switch instead of Cherry or Gateron (Cherry is the original that they all copy, Gateron makes a well respected and popular clone).

For example, this Cooler Master Masterkeys L is cheaper, uses Cherry switches and has programmable white backlighting. And this Cooler Master Masterkeys L is only a little more expensive, uses Cherry switches and has programmable RGB lighting.

And Form Factor (from your other post) describes the physical size and layout of a keyboard. Full/100% is your standard keyboard. TKL is the next step smaller, and cuts off the numberpad. 60% is when you take a TKL and chop off the Arrow/Navigation keys and the F1-12 row, leaving just the alphanumeric characters and the surrounding modifiers.

Those are about the three most common form factors, but there are others as well (40% for those looking for something really portable and compact. 65% for those who want a 60% but can't live without the arrow keys.).

I'm relatively new to the sub and the hobby, been shopping around a bit the last two days.

I found this deal on Amazon. Would this be a good starter MK for office use? I would probably need to pair it with a num pad since I work in Excel almost exclusively, but $72 for an LED TKL seems like a pretty good deal, especially given that the reviews are solid and coolermaster seems to be somewhat of a mid-tier brand.

Any advice or thoughts on this board as a first board? I'm looking at some other options as well, but they're significantly more expensive.

Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro S. I used to have a CM Storm Quickfire which is basically the older name but same model, it's a really good board. Super sturdy build quality, clean sleek look without any "gamer" branding, equally clean keycap legends and a 100% standard key layout, and detachable braided USB cable. Mine didn't have software customization or programmability but I think these newer ones do.

I'm looking for a keyboard to replace my beloved Zippy WK-730 that I'm using at work. It's going on three years old now and starting to feel a little mushy.

I like the size of it; it doesn't take up too much space on my desk. I use a slim wrist rest with it, so I'm not married to the depth of it (although I really like how thin it is, aesthetically, I guess it's actually a hindrance to function).

After doing some cursory research, it would appear I have two choices in the mechanical keyboard space: Cherry MX Clear/Brown or Topre switches.

I'm pretty much looking at the CM Storm TK with Cherry Brown switches or the Topre Type Heaven.

I like my Zippy, other than the mushiness, and I use a wired Apple board at home. Should I even be considering these two mechboards or should I be barking up a different tree?

Has anyone here moved from a nice scissor like the Zippy or Apple slim keyboards to a mechanical and absolutely loved it? Conversely, has anyone made the jump and regretted it?

ByViktoron June 11, 2016
I've tried out the:
Topre Heaven - I was hoping for much better. The keyboard feels ancient and very heavy compared to other keyboards. Keys feel very stiff and the texture on the keycaps is weird and grainy. Didn't like it all, maybe personal preference but did not type as fluid as the Das keyboard or even Logitech 810.

https://www.amazon.com/Topre-Type-Heaven-104-key-Keyboard/product-reviews/B00DGJALYW/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_summary?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=helpful

4 Stars - ByJustsomedisplaynameon May 8, 2014
"However, it wasn't for me. Here's why. I'm used to a Cherry MX Red board, lubricated and o-ringed. My typing (yes, typing on Reds) has adapted to it, and I can type for what seems to be forever without feeling any pain. I wanted to try a Topre board though from reading all the good things about them, so I bought the Type Heaven. I found I had to exert too much effort to type on the Type Heaven. Switching back and forth, I concluded that the slightly smoother feeling and the tactility weren't worth the money for me. But just because I found it too heavy doesn't mean you will. Actually some people on Geekhack found it too light."

and so on...

There's some decent boards on Amazon. The best brand/board for that value with a num pad would probably be the CM Storm QuickFire TK.

There are a couple variations with different pricing ranging from 75-100. TKL, TK (No Arrow), and XL (Full). Their main switches are Red (Linear), Blue (Tactile, Loud), and Brown (Tactile, Quiet)

The best for matching your desires is: https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00EQV0W02/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486864713&sr=8-2&keywords=CM+Storm+Brown

They're worth it for a bit more than $80. They have a much higher floor (base quality) than other boards on Amazon, and have a decent ceiling.

Personally, I would stick away from Aukey. For something you will constantly be using, probably every day, it's better to invest a bit into it.

Im currently thinking about buying my first mech board, something around $50. I've only tried greens and browns before and really liked them. The keyboards I was looking at are the [Drevo 84] (https://www.amazon.com/Drevo-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480668408&sr=8-1&keywords=drevo), Qisan 68 , [Corsair k65] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Compact-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00DOWCQ0I/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480667218&sr=8-8&keywords=mechanical+keyboard) , [Corsair k70 refurb] (http://www.corsair.com/en-us/corsair-gaming-k70-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-brown-ch-9000516-na-refurbished), and the [Ajazz ak33] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ajazz-Geek-AK33-Backlit-USB-Wired-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-for-PC-Laptop-/121991387736?var=&hash=item1c6740da58:m:m8UdK8NaQRLhr0Zm2pw3NJA). I dont mind not having the numpad, but I'm not sure which of these boards is the best. Also the ak33 seems really appealing for the price but I'm not sure how loud the switches will be in comparison to browns. Any help will be appreciated!

I've been looking at low-profile compact keyboard options recently, and to my surprise it's proving trickier than expected, so I'm asking for suggestions

Criteria are as following:

• Low-profile and generally thin
  
• Doesn't necessarily have to be mechanical but is to be used for a lot of typing
  
• Function key row
  
• US-style layout (wide LShift, Horizontal Enter key)
  
• Normal-sized arrow keys (not Apple-style half-height)
  
• Either normal TKL or 84-key - needs Home, End, Delete keys
  
• Can have or not have backlight^((so long as it's not always-on and shining like a thousand suns))
  
• Can be wired or wireless
  
• <=$150; shipping from US
  
  Am currently using a Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Desktop keyboard. The keys feel really nice, and the layout is good, but so far the mid-keyboard gap isn't quite clicking with me (I've pressed Y with my left hand for at least 10 years now, and here it's on the right side) and their other keyboards with same type of keys are all full-sized.
  
  I have a Logitech K380 lying around, and it's alright (no high standards, mostly used with mobile devices), but not a fan of squished arrow keys.
  
  Current considerations:
  
  
• Sharkoon Purewriter TKL
  
• HAVIT HV-KB390L
  
• Thinkpad Compact Keyboard
  
  Update: Settled on HAVIT. Sharkoon seems OK too but only ships from Germany (?) and is a little thicker; Thinkpad is generally highly regarded but the layout is a bit oddish (Fn is left-most key) and my life can do without the perspectives of cleaning any more laptop-esque (inset) keyboards.

Looking for a full-size with MX Browns for general use plus gaming (USA), and the following are all pluses: Mac layout, white LED, detachable cord, simple aesthetics, and "floating keys" like Varmilo (definitely not all hard requirements except full size and Browns).

Current plan is WASD Code (has everything except floating keys, for 150 on Amazon or less if I can wait for MassDrop) with these O-rings (look equivalent to regular red ones), plus Vortex doubleshot PBT+POM backlit white keycaps thick OEM height ones that apparently look great on specifically the Code (plus they match my white Corsair 600T hackintosh case).

Any ideas? Decent cheaper alternatives I hadn't considered? Concerns I should be aware of with this setup? This Ducky One looks like a decent cheaper board at 120 with Browns and white LED, but the availability is listed only as preorder, which sounds to me like “unavailable for who knows how long”.

Apologies for my noobiness, and happy holidays!

OMFG! I should have bought another one! I can't believe they discontinued this!!! Why??? This switch style is the BEST! Christ, Allah Akbar, USED ones are selling for $400! https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00MY3S288/ref=dp_olp_used_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=used I'm going to take very very very good care of mine hehe.

Personally, i looked at both of these as well along with the rapid i version. I ended up buying the rapid i and i love it, cherry mx blue switches. If you dont care about the numpad i would definitely recommend that. Backlighting is always nice too. oh and if you end up wanting brown switches its on sale on amazon right now: https://www.amazon.com/QuickFire-Mechanical-Keyboard-ActivLite-Technology/dp/B00JM61264
cheers

I am just generally confused as to what keys are *actually* quiet but give that same mechanical, clickly feel to them. Are Browns actually quiet? I've never used them before but would like to buy a 'queiter' keyboard for work so that I can enjoy using a mechanical keyboard at work.

For reference, I bought a cheap mechanical keyboard which I have enjoyed thus far but it has blues:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M301Q50/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is definitely too loud for work. My work's IT hands out these keyboards which I am currently using:

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-FBA_884116173823-Keyboard-KB212-B/dp/B00U7QJ1DY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525184631&sr=8-2&keywords=kb212-b+keyboard&dpID=41W53hSjsvL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

It's clacky, but not in a mechanical keyboard kind of way. Does anyone have suggestions on a MX brown/knock off for under 50 that is actually quiet? Seems like most of the time i find a keyboard that fits what I am looking for most people say the keyboard is terrible.

Newish to mechanical keyboards and have been doing my research. I can't decide which keyboard to choose and was hoping you could help me decide.

• MK Disco TKL White Keycap Edition (KBT Brown) $119 (MechanicalKeyboards.com)
  
  
• Ducky One TKL Blue LED (Brown Cherry MX) $99 (MechanicalKeyboards.com)
  
  
• MasterKeys Pro L w/ White LED (Cherry MX Brown ) $109.99 (Amazon)
  
  I was considering the Masterkeys Pro S over the Pro L but the brown switch version is currently priced at ~$156 over the blue switch version at $99. I'm guessing it's really popular so the price keeps going up due to Amazons algorithm. The RGB version of the Pro L with Brown switches is ~$136 but I'm not sure I want to pay $26 for some pretty lights. The RGB Ducky one is at $140 but then I'm paying $40 over the blue version just for some fancy colors. I was thinking if I wan't pretty lights the MK Disco seems to be the best value.
  
  I think I'm leaning towards the disco. Also, if there's anything I'm missing or you have a suggestion other than these, let me know.

TKL is short for tenkeyless, which is a keyboard without the number pad. Since you want a full-size, you can check out the Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro L, iKBC MF108 (no black switches though, and not currently in stock, but a nice aluminum case), Ducky Shine 6, etc.

There aren't really any perks, it's just a personal preference. You can get a switch tester, but that won't really give the best impression since you'll just be pushing down one switch and not actually typing. You can try to visit local computer shops to see if they have keyboards on display to try out.

I was looking for the same thing and found the CM Storm Quickfire TK which does go over your budget but you can probably find a good deal on ebay. Also the Logitech G710+ is meant to be good but again goes a bit over your budget.


Other than that, listen to everyone else here and get the Magicforce 68 which is far cheaper and has better value.

I really like the look of the CM Masterkeys, it looks great, has positive reviews and is within my price point, so I might get that. But nonetheless, I still want the software question to be answered for people who got into my situation.
Thanks for the recommendations!

Quick Edit: It is within my price point in amazon as I posted this, here is the link:https://www.amazon.com/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01D8ETGJ0?th=1

>How do you know which one to get


The keyboard, switchtype and keycaps all come down to personal preference.
I'd recommend you research the most common MX switch types, and possibly get a switch tester to get a general feel for the individual switches before settling on a board.


>do you have to build the keyboard piece by piece?


Short answer, no.

Longer answer, a lot of keyboard enthusiasts choose to build their own keyboards with individually sourced high quality and sometimes sought after and rare parts, in order to build a keyboard to their exact preference. As a first time buyer, buying a stock board from a vendor or shop should do you just fine.


The Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L seems to fit your specifications perfectly, and with the Cherry MX Brown version sitting at $89 on Amazon right now, you're getting quite a good deal.

Das Keyboard 4: http://www.daskeyboard.com/daskeyboard-4-professional/#/awesome-products

Logitech G710+: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY

Logitech G910: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-g910-orion-spark-mechanical-gaming-keyboard/9163008.p?id=1219398147781&skuId=9163008

/u/fauxsoul already mentioned the Corsair K-series -- and I think that mostly covers them, outside of some of the more knockoff brands. The Media wheel will definitely be the hardest thing to find -- it's just not that common, from what I've seen. A popular solution around these parts seems to be external jog dials -- something like the Belkin Powermate: http://store.griffintechnology.com/powermate

Hope that helps!

>The wireless connection only worked for up to 1.5 metres or so

Yeah, the 2.4 GHz band is typically very polluted these days. I get the same limitation from my Logitech Unifying Receiver. In my home theater I ended up running an active USB extension cable closer to my seats and attaching a USB hub back there. My HID dongles are plugged in across the room from my actual PC. I cheated. :)

​

>One LED (one of the F-functions) didn't display red and there didn't correctly display the RGB colours.

Hey, I think I saw your Amazon review. You're famous! Mine doesn't suffer this issue. But the Sink87G is dirt cheap in the mech keyboard world. I guess one is more likely to encounter a lemon in the sub $100 price range, as you and I both have experienced.

​

Edit: I just received my replacement Sink87G. As far as I can tell, it's free of defects this time. Still needs a little break-in, but I see no non-working LEDs, and all the keys work as intended.

​

>I didn't find it that much better to type/game on than a 'normal' keyboard.

This hobby is definitely a solution to a first world problem. I'm old enough to remember when buckling spring keyboards were common. First time I used a membrane keyboard in a computer lab, my first impression was "wtf was done to this poor keyboard?" I switched computers and was horrified to find they were all that spongy and obstinate. Of course, I've used some truly horrible keyboards in my time -- the kind where, if you saw them, you'd wonder if the girl whose water broke at that workstation made it to the hospital in time. Using something so horrible really makes one appreciate the finer things.

If you grew up with membranes, then you probably consider it normal punching the keys until they bottom out. That's completely understandable. And modern membranes have improved, some incorporating a tactile snap reminiscent of what you probably felt with your Outemu Browns. I'm not surprised you didn't find the experience a profound improvement.

Of course among mech keyboard fans, there are many who do not like brown switches, but instead prefer linear reds or clicky blues, stiffer linear blacks, vintage Alps, or Filco buckling springs. I bet if you got a keyboard with red switches and practiced for a day or two typing without bottoming out, you might come to appreciate the speed benefit over your Microsoft keyboard.

Hey, I wonder if you'd like low profile switches, something like the Havit HV-KB395L (low profile blues) or this Magic Refiner MK10 (low profile reds)? They've got less travel than typical mechs, and may feel more familiar while still an improvement over your Microsoft keyboard.

You should check out the Plugable TKL. I have one I'm working on a review for right now. It's quite possibly the best board in the $50> range. Steel plate, doubleshot keycaps, white backlighting. It's hard to find all of that at this price range. There is also a full-sized version for $10 more.

The one downside is, because this line of boards is new, it only comes with Outemu Blue switches currently, which are okay, assuming you don't mind clicky switches.

The Magicforce is also a decent choice. Doesn't have as many features or as nice of build quality, but it's $5 cheaper for the basic model with Outemu switches. Comes in Blue, Black or Brown switches, with more options on the more expensive models.

Like another user suggested, you can head on over to a secondhand market like /r/mechmarket, eBay, etc and hunt down something "nicer" like a Cooler Master Quickfire for $50 or so, assuming you don't mind used items.

Thanks! Soldering isn't too hard (I also was afraid of soldering). It's intimidating at first, but after a couple hours of doing it, you'll get more comfortable with it. Getting a cheap mech to practice soldering/desoldering on would probably help you get acquainted with the whole process. This is the soldering iron I used, and this is what I used to desolder. I also used this to clean the tip of the soldering iron in order to make it perform more consistently.

If you want backlighting, I would recommend the IKBC F108 or IKBC F87 (without numpad, I really recommend downsizing unless you use it a lot).

Full RGB, better built than the big brands, and comes with one of the nicest sets of keycaps around, that won't wear out in no time or break like the cheap ones you'll find on Razer and the like.

There are new low-profile switches that came out recently from Cherry and Kailh, and they sound like what you want. There isn't a lot of board selection yet though. If you can tolerate the noise of blue switches, I think you'd like this one for $50:

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-HV-KB390L/dp/B0722GG88M/

I'm using a Noppoo Choc Mini with 35g Gateron Clears, and that sounds like another option. Super light switches (the lightest you can buy), no scratchiness at all, but the keycaps are a bit tall compared to chiclets. It's about $60, I tried finding a link for that one but it looks like Newegg is out of stock now.

By the way, there are lots of people who feel similarly about chiclets. I type fast (~130wpm) and play Starcraft 2 competitively, and haven't found anything that works as well for me as an old ThinkPad membrane keyboard, despite a tour of mech keyboards. Am hoping these low profile switches will work for me, but blues are too noisy.

Not sure if these are technically meant for a keyboard, and you won't be able to tell someone the exact size rating (in terms of the Cherry MX o-ring thicknesses from the pic I linked) but they're pretty cheap, there are more than enough for a full size keyboard, and they're what I used on my BW Ultimate: Amazon Link.

You need a keycap puller (or a way to get keycaps off) if you don't have one, but those are pretty cheap and easy to find.

A tenkeyless, standard layout with brown switches sounds like an ideal first board to me. I'll want to add a standalone number pad that I can place on the far side of the mouse (or the opposite side of the keyboard) later on.

I'm trying to use some Amazon gift card credit, and here's what I've found so far:

• CM Storm QuickFire Rapid
  
• CM Storm QuickFire XT
  
• Nixeus MODA
  
  I'm about to pull the trigger on the Nixeus, I'm just going to look through some reviews first.

https://smile.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01HHTFSIK&pd_rd_r=VZVNNGJ7DV3WS6JXW6Z6&pd_rd_w=YeYVm&pd_rd_wg=cWwlS&psc=1&refRID=VZVNNGJ7DV3WS6JXW6Z6

I know it has keycaps, but the price is rather good, the build is quite nice, it has Gateron Brown switches, and it'd look really good with Miami.

https://www.amazon.com/ECG-J-045-DS-Electric-Soldering-Temperature/dp/B00068IJSG

It works pretty well, but it tears through tips. I would say that one or two keyboards is about the life of a tip. It also starts to cool off if you do too many switches at once. However if you desolder and remove like 3 switches at a time it works great.

If you want a good inexpensive intro board with metal case, I really like my Teamwolf Zhuque TKL. It comes with decent Outemu switches but they're hot-swappable so you can throw in a huge variety of switches without soldering. (I put Zealios in mine and absolutely love it.)

This keyboard has basically the same switches as the new Tesoro gram, these are Kailh ML switches. They have 3mm of travel compared to normal switches 4mm.

I own one of these and honestly it's pretty amazing, it's way better than I was expecting.

Alternatively, a KBD75 with Kailh speeds would work for you too.

2011

>Gaming on Logitech k740 keyboard for a year bored a perfect circle through the keycap, they were low profile and cheap. Guess the rubberish stem was stronger than the plastic cap. Got another kb, happen again, got another, again.... bleh.
 

2013

>Frustrated, I upgraded to Logitech G710+ cherry mx brown, first tasted of mech keeb, this time a hole didn't bore through, but keycap faded & chipped. Logitech support sent replacement caps, faded again. https://i.imgur.com/CqPLX9K.jpg
 

2016

>Discovered a better world at /r/MechanicalKeyboards upgraded to doubleshot PBT backlit keycaps on a Vortex Pok3r RGB. Never had problems again. Love it so much I bought several more pok3r. Then many more keycap sets.
 

2019

>Earlier this month took my next step and built from scratch via Kbdfans Tofu 60 kit. Learned of so many switches, mods and etc. This subreddit is bad for my pocket. I'm already eye'ing a RAMA keeb.....

Long post, sorry...

I'm a programmer looking at getting started with blank mechanical keyboards, my current one is rather old and dusty. (entry level, less than $100, preferably even less)

I know this board isn't technically "recommended" but I was thinking about buying the Plugable keyboard since it has outemu blue switches (I've heard they're about as good as cherry) and white backlighting (don't want any other colors, as my pc is white/black themed). Then I would attach a blank Max keycap set.

My main question is, is the keycap set compatible with the keyboard? I'm not sure about the size of spacebar, but the amazon page says keyboard is compatible with ANSI layout keycaps. Also any other recommendations for board/keycaps would be helpful.

Thanks for taking the time to read this long post

The Masterkeys Pro L is on sale for $135 right now. I have a Pro S (the tenkeyless version) and it works wonderfully. If you don't care about RGB there's a cheaper one with white LEDs as well.

People on this sub tend to not recommend Corsair and Logitech boards because of their nonstandard bottom row (it's harder to get custom keycap sets for them) as well as the lighting being tied to software (which sounds good in theory, but they're usually really buggy and overly complex). If you really particularly like their features then go for it; they're certainly not bad at all.

If you're willing to spend the money, the V80 TKL is on massdrop right now and is pretty dang popular with the community.

Referral link if you want to buy it so I might win some nice headphones :)


As for the $80 price point, I would probably say do the Magicforce 68 even though it isn't a traditional TKL layout, its basically the same thing with the layering if you can manage, or the backlit version of the CM Storm QFR.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Mechanical-Enthusiasts-Backlighting-Double-shot/dp/B01M301Q50/ comes with Gaote blues (widely regarded as superior to cherry mx blue; they are more tactile). The ugly logo comes off with alcohol if you want to get rid of that.

If you want to spend a bit more, https://www.amazon.com/Rantopad-MXX-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B0186S2GYA is a good option. Good build quality, Gaterons (smoother than Cherries; very popular in the keyboard community) and good reviews.

Ok, you will for sure want MX Blues or MX Greens then. I will post some links to ones that I think you would be interested in.

Ducky One I have this board but in browns and I like it a lot.

Filco

CM Storm Quickfire this one has MX greens which are
clicky but need more force to be pressed.

^Wrong link. Click the green one.

Rosewill This one is more of a budget starter.

Corsair Strafe this is probably one of the more popular brands especially for gamers.

Corsair K70

For CM this or this if you need a dedicated arrow cluster.

Ducky is a bit more expensive, I'd recommend a Ducky One. Go here for an easy listing of options.

Hope this helps!

Story time... I've had this Filco with blues for awhile and never done anything to it. A few months ago I picked up a CODE with clears and my poor Filco sat abandoned and unloved. Recently, Massdrop did a group buy for Ducky PBT caps and I decided it was time to breathe some new life back into my Filco. I wanted to bring it back to work so I also took the opportunity to install some o-ring dampeners (Amazon, non-referral).

I love the keycaps, they feel great -- I'm a big fan of the texture. The o-rings make a big difference for me because I always bottom out. The one's I ordered from Amazon are a hybrid of the two offered by WASD because I wanted a harder ring with less travel reduction. If you're wishing your blues were a little quieter these are great o-rings.

Here is the non-mobile link. EliteKeyboards' is the seller so that means Elitekeyboards.com may have it soon on their site.

For those wondering about the difference between Realforce/HHKB/Leopold and Type Heaven, the difference is in the keycaps. The keycaps on the Type Heaven are ABS compared to PBT on other Topre keyboard. All Topre keyboards use ABS spacebars though. The Type Heaven is also made in China, just like the Leopold FC660C.

Well the only keyboards I've found at this point that are in my pricerange are the Poker II and the Cooler Master Rapid-I

I love the feel of the Browns, they type well and and they do not have the obnoxiously loud click of the Blues that annoyed the person next to me in Mirco Center the second I typed my first word on it.

However I'm not sure if I like the lights on the Cooler Master or not.

I was looking into this one but I'm not sure if I will like the Greens.

How loud are they?

If they're less than the Blues and a bit more than the Browns then I could deal with it.

I like the size of the Poker II but I'm not sure how long I will last without arrow keys.

But if I like the Greens (going to a different Micro Center tomorrow) then I'm going to buy the QuickFire with Greens.

o-rings are modules, just search for gateron clears, and then buy some o-rings on amazon.
I'm afraid that you won't find any gateron clears on any of the mainstream gaming keyboards.

You could buy Cherry MX browns, you'd find them quite easily they are in between linear (nicer for gaming) and tactile (nicer for typing) they are the best of both worlds.

A cool keyboard with browns and backlit (gaming at night ...) : the


link to a 100% keyboard from Cooler Master

link to a 100% keyboard from Corsair (Corsair has a bad reputation but don't listen to the r/mkb elitist, they are nice boards)

link to another Corsair boards, cheaper and simpler

finally a board from Logitech that looks like a regular mechanical keyboard without too much things on it

hakko fx-888D is my current iron. Costs a pretty penny but if you're going to be doing a lot of work it's great. It's digital, so it regulates temperature instead of power, and you can cycle between custom temperature presets or set it to whatever temperature you feel like. the nibs are a bit expensive compared to the shitty iron I had before it, but they also last a lot longer; also I got a combo deal on amazon for like 10 nibs for 15 bucks when I bought the iron

only downside is it looks like a fisher price toy

MX Reds, and a bit over budget, but best choice is this Ducky One for $110. Also available in MX Brown but is $150.

Maybe consider dropping the backlight and going with a Cooler Master Quickfire XT at $130.

Alternatively, wait and save your money up; $100 doesn't typically get you a quality backlit fullsize in American dollars, much less Canadian dollars.

What do you guys think of this keyboard?

Is there a better one for the price, or should I wait for a sale? I'm interested in brown or black keys, and want a full size or tenkeyless if there are cool lighting things (like in the CM Rapid-i).

Thanks in advance for any responses!

So in one country Blackwidows are more expensive than other boards?

In the land of the free and the home of the brave, The TKL is about $70, the Expert is $80-$90, and the Ultimate is $110-$120. Older versions are cheaper than that.

>And it's not tons, it's Razer, Corsair, certain CM's(which can support normal bottom row if you don't mind weird gaps) and one Noppoo model versus all other mechanical keyboards(excluding weird reduced layouts with stuff like 5.5 spacebars or 1,75 right Shifts).

Lets see we have:

Adesso


Func

Gamdias

Gigabyte

Logitech

MSI

Max

QUMAX

Roccat

Rosewill

SIIG

Thermaltake

Topre

Matias

And at least a handful of others I'm not remembering.

And why would being able to 1.25x caps with gaps be limited to Cooler Master?

>>*KRO means the SMALLEST number of keys that can be pressed from ALL possible combinations. For example the, as you've called it, "6KRO" BW2013 fails with ZXC or any combo with three(even two in some cases) arrows plus anything else, as confirmed by geekhack fellows.

Source.

And why is that even important? In what situation are you putting your face on your keyboard and needing keys to register?

Hey guys, I'm looking for a typing and gaming keyboard around $100- $130.

Heres my preferences:

Somewhat quiet

MX Browns

backlighting (would love multi-color, but idk at this price point)

Num-pad + Macro Keys

So far these keyboards interest me:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823567013&cm_re=mx_brown-_-23-567-013-_-Product
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456949717&sr=8-2&keywords=g710

Any recommendations would be much appreciated.

If you're looking for a full MKB for under $90, the QuickFire Rapid XT with Browns is pretty affordable right now. Only $85.63 with free shipping on Amazon. Very nice board and feels solid.

I would be careful if you plan on going any cheaper for a full.

I personally like gateron brown vs cherry brown for brown switches so check out something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510760374&sr=8-3&keywords=gateron+brown+keyboard

My understand is that you can also get the gmmk keyboard for around 100 prebuilt with gateron brown switches. The value there is that for a little extra money you get a keyboard that can swap switches which could be useful if you don't like browns or a switch dies on you. While it has a dumb name it looks pretty sleek and the rgb can be fully turned off if you don't like it in a office setting (can also be tuned to one color for a nice backlight). If you are interested in that one I have a referrel code you can use to get the price lower than msrp.

Hey guys,
I'm fairly new to mechs, but from the ones I tried out, I really like Cherry MX Browns (Reds and Blacks aren't my thing and I haven't tried Blues, but those are probably out of the question as I live in a dorm). I've been looking to buy a board with the following requirements:

• I don't really want to spend more than 70€ (I'm a broke student), shipping included
  
• I want it to be tenkeyless (meaning no Magicforce, even though it looks quite good)
  
• It has to be available in Europe (I specifically live in Slovakia, but Germany would do as I do have methods to get a parcel to here from there)
  
• ANSI layout is a plus, as it's easier to get keycaps imo, as well as a backlight, preferably white or RGB.
  
  I've been looking at the Drevo Tyrfing (or maybe even Gramr) with Outemu Browns, but from what I've seen on this sub, some people say the switches are okay and some think they're really bad. Is it a good choice for the price? Or is there a better option?
  
  edit: linked keebs to US Amazon

If you want clicky, the Poseidon Z seems to be a fine option. My brother-in-law bought one the other day and loves it so far.

If you want TKL with macros and you're fine with red switches, check out the Monoprice macro keyboard.

If you want something big and bulky with browns (and o-rings!), look into the Logitech G710+. It semi-frequently goes on sale for $100, occasionally less. A friend of mine absolutely swears by his.

You should try a 75% since that layout has become pretty standard in recent years.

Budget:

• Drevo Gramr
  
  Mid-range:
  
  
• Keycool 84
  
• MK84
  
• Drevo Excalibur
  
  High end (custom):
  
  
• KBD75 (pretty easy to find right now since a huge GB just shipped)
  
• RS84
  
• AMJ84 (hard to find here in the US but was run primarily on TaoBao)
  
• TriC 84
  
• B.Mini
  
• C.mini (aka b.fake mini or ps2avrgb 75%)
  
• GON MX Mini
  
  Super high end:
  
  
• TX75
  
• Duck Octagon V1 and V2
  
  
  --
  
  Here's a 75% that I'm currently using: http://imgur.com/a/DMMql

Like I said those issues could have been completely fixed now, I never looked more into it because the looks don't appeal to me and I don't use macros. Amazon had it on sale for $95 and free shipping a day or two ago but it looks like it is at $110 now, still has free shipping though.

https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00EQV0W02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499656730&sr=8-1&keywords=quickfire+xt

• Great build quality
  
• Removable cable, with a full-size USB port (best for longevity)
  
• Standard key sizes
  
• Looks very plain, which is great if you don't care for those gaming keyboards that look like they were pulled off the dashboard of a stealth fighter

Actually, especially with the Black Friday, the best keyboard you can get without spending too much is the IKBC F108 RGB that is currently on sale at Amazon.com for $99.

The stock keycaps are really good (PBT doubleshot) and the quality build is on par with Ducky, which is better than CoolerMaster.

I’m in the same boat as you, just want the best quality. I was doing some looking around recently and I came across this middle of the road iron, has a lot of great reviews. Isn’t the best, isn’t the worst. This is what I’m aimin for!

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KP11BbBJPKH4S

Logitech G710

• White backlight
  
• Dedicated media keys
  
  Not sure if you're okay with the extra macro keys - it's pretty hard to find small mechanical keyboards with dedicated media keys. You won't find any tenkeyless boards with dedicated ones. Any reason you have a problem with using FN keys?

Well the main differences are

| Magicforce | Masterkeys
---|---|---
Switch | Gateron | Cherry
Lighting | White | RGB
Media keys | Dedicated | With Fn modifier
Cable | Non-removable | Removable
Macro keys | With Fn | 4x dedicated
Software | No | Yes
Price | $69.99 | $87.21

I have no idea what kind of switch you want, but I compared browns because I didn't see the magicforce 108 with a different switch option. I also don't know if the masterkeys rebate will work for you if you're in Canada or even if the pricing is the same so that's something you'll have to look up.

Personally I would purchase the masterkeys, but that's mostly because I have a Pro S and I've been really happy with it.

For you, you'll have to see if any of the main differences are selling points for you. If anyone sees any differences I missed please comment.

Doing my first build and keep hearing about solder temperature. What is a good temperature for soldering switches on a board. Solder i'll be using looks to be [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520171074&sr=8-4&keywords=hakko+solder)

I appreciate any other soldering guidance as well.

Thanks for any replies!

Have had K70 with Reds for a year looking for another RGB board with brown or blue switches. Reds just don't give me that satisfying click when i have to type essays for school.

Great for gaming though. Also would like it to be 80% or without number pad as another drawback with the K70 is it takes it up a lot of space

Looking at these 2 keyboards: http://www.ebay.com/itm/302191575786?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

https://www.amazon.com/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01D8ETGJ0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&coliid=I10XOW3A55S934&colid=FOQVSB0TG42G&th=1

Matias Quiet Pro is a good choise for both cost and the variety of boards. They're very quiet, not too expensive, there's a Mac version, they have a tactile feel and there is a 100% and a small version.

There's the Cooler Master Novatouch that costs a bit more, has a lower actuation force, you can change the keycaps later on and it has a TKL layout so if you're using the numberpad a lot, you should probably go for the Matias Quiet Pro. ¨

If you want the premium stuff there's the Topre Realforce boards. They are expensive, comes in regular 100% layout and TKL layout, there's a version where the keys on the board has different weights on them so from 30-45g. for better ergonomics, there's also a version that's a bit more quieter to believe it or not and it comes in black or white.

EDIT: Noticed that you wanted a small board, so the Matias Mini Quiet Pro and the G84 is probably the two best mechanical boards to get.

yeah the nixeus looks like a good option.

I am looking to get them from amazon so that would be fine. I am also looking at this Drevo Gramr which looks pretty good, but I also can't tell if it's standard.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6DHITE

I mean as you said, it looks standard from most keys but I am not sure about the keys on the right side for the home, del, page up, etc. Seems like they would be, just in a different position. It's the same layout on my laptop keyboard too.

For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..

205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..

https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+205&qid=1555994639&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+204&qid=1555994880&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For the stab bar inserts

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-6PK-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=permatex&qid=1555994695&s=gateway&sr=8-9&th=1

Probably Topre Type Heaven, about $155 or so on Amazon

Pros:

• Full size
  
• Smooth as butter
  
  Cons:
  
  
• No backlight
  
• Very little customization (Topre stems are rare)
  
• Plastic case, laser etched caps
  
  If you got unlimited budget you can go for a full Topre Realforce for $250 on Amazon. You get metal base, dye-sub caps, and optimized key strength layout (weaker fingers get lighter keys).

If this had been out when I got into this hobby, I am sure I would have bought 3 of these Drevo Gramrs. One for work, home, and on the go.

The 65% layout is my favorite and thus the TADA68/RS68 are my favorite boards I own. But if that $45, 75% keyboard had been out 2 years ago, I would have been fine with that extra row on top and all in with boards at $135. Leaving more money for the custom keysets.

I currently have one of those Gramrs and they work just fine. Getting to know the Fn layer is the kicker with any layout, but if you use that same one everywhere then you are good to go.

I am using this currently but this is coming in the mail tomorrow ;) along with some more lube and solder.

Edit: I have built all of my boards with the Weller without any issues. I also have a desoldering iron which is 10x better than the pump. If you ever plan on desoldering pick yourself up the desoldering iron for the extra 10 bucks. The solder pumps will break and you will end up spending that much on them anyways so its definitely worth it.

USD 150 is a very good budget, you need to get some reliable and proper tool.

Soldering iron: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523249667&sr=8-3&keywords=hakko+888

Solder: https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-0027-Solder-Alloy-Diameter/dp/B0149K4JTY/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1523249737&sr=1-4&keywords=kester+63%2F37

Cleaning wire: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599-029-Replacement-Insert-Cleaner/dp/B00Q88Q1ZG/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1523249854&sr=1-2&keywords=hakko+brass+wire

Helping hand (Optional ) https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1523249902&sr=1-1&keywords=soldering+helping+hands

I have one and honestly I don't really care for it. The keys feel sort of "wobbly" and make a hollow sound when I press them.

I have a Havit low profile mech (https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-Rollover/dp/B0722GG88M) that feels much better, though it obviously doesn't reach feature parity with the Keychron. That's one area in which the Keychron has just about everyone beat -- Bluetooth, Cabled, Windows MacOS, it's very flexible. It's a very visually attractive keyboard as well, IMO

I have these because I think paying $20 for orings is retarded. Typing is fine, maybe just less enjoyable, but still a lot nicer than my old keyboards. It really prevented the ping I used to get from bottoming out, but I feel they are a lot less useful now that I type properly and don't slam the keys.

The Hakko FX888D is going to be what the majority of people that comment here will point you to, with good reasons. Price may be a bit high but this thing will see you through all your hobbies that require soldering, honestly there is nothing bad I can say about the unit besides the fact that it’s ugly AF 😂

Weller WE1010 is what I’m currently using (Gave Hakko away to my brother) As far as I can tell there is no noticeable difference between the two, with the same heat up time, performance, etc. one thing is that this doesn’t come with a brass tip cleaner like the Hakko so you’d have to get one yourself.

Just my two cents, but this one has hotswappable switches Plugable 104 key - https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Performance-Full-Size-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01MA6O13L . I am currently using this one and has been great so far for me. They also make a tkl as well.

I'm looking to buy a good but cheap tenkeyless with browns. Can be cherries or gaterons, I actually prefer gateron browns. Massdrop is having a drop on a nice looking one but I really don't want to have to wait until March for it to show up.

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/magicforce-82-key-mechanical-keyboard

I did find this one on Amazon, but it's quality looks questionable, and it's definitely not a standard sizing for the rows. Thoughts? I'd like to spend under $70.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1MRPHNGA69Q4E&coliid=IYSBU5VATPDLW&psc=1

Does anyone actually own the Magic Force (Gateron Brown Switch 108 key) keyboard? There don't seem to be many reviews online and I am reluctant to buy it because of that. It looks awesome and I would like some input from an owner. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482782103&sr=8-1&keywords=qisan+108

This Havit with low-profile Kailh switches is ridiculous value for the price. Great key action with that click bar mechanism. I have one and think it’s great, even next to much pricier options. https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-HV-KB390L/dp/B0722GG88M

Best keyboard for writing?
https://www.amazon.es/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1UF8FPJ50T51M&coliid=I379MU9TTQJE2Q&psc=1
or
https://www.amazon.es/LESHP-Teclado-Mec%C3%A1nico-Disposici%C3%B3n-Espa%C3%B1ola/dp/B01M68VP6A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492687382&sr=8-4
Also, if I go with the first option, which switch would be better for typing: blue, red, black or brown?

I think the Coolermaster Quickfire Rapid-i sounds like exactly what you're looking for. It is a TKL, Cherry MX Browns, black body and caps, white LEDs, not super gaming-y font, n-key rollover, and just $95 on Amazon! Also this link is the CM product page.

You could also look at the WASD Code for something a little more expensive but with great font/design.

If you want a TKL, the CM Rapid-i is a pretty good keyboard with more lighting effects than just brightness.

I actually didn't have that problem with mine :/ My only problem was the stabs wobbling like crazy, but i'r pretty sure some nice lube will fix that. I got this from amazon. Probably wayyy too much for my needs but at least i know i will never run out haha

RK-9000V2 BR is probably one of the cheapest full size Cherry board. It's also 'office safe' since it looks just like a $10 regular keyboard. People rated it good for its solid build.

Need some help deciding between Ducky One 2 and Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro L.

Let me preface this by saying that this is my first keyboard and I live in India(so prices are absolute dogshit). I'm currently using the keyboard on my MSI GS 60 which, tbh, is the best laptop keyboard that I've used.

I have narrowed my search down to these two keyboards. Ducky One 2 in white with white LEDs or Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro L with white LEDs both in MX Browns.

I really like how the Ducky keyboard looks with the white on white, but shipping it to India along with any costs of customs duty will make it over twice the price of the CM keyboard(which I found on amazon.in). I chose these keyboards because it doesn't look too gamery and stuff with weird legends. I like the minimal design of both of these and RGB is not necessary (although, I don't mind having it) but the plain backlighting, I need. I do use the numpad, so a 100% keyboard is necessary.

I'm open for suggestions and I'm willing to spend around 100 USD (which is what the CM keyboard retails for on amazon.in)

New here -- Clicked around to try to figure some of this stuff out but got lost.

I have a few questions:

1. I have a Noppoo Choco Mini with MX Cherry Red swiches seen here: https://www.amazon.com/Noppoo-84-Technology-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0091QOCNA?th=1
   
   How good is this keyboard? General rating or comments would be cool. Is Cherry MX Red good for typing long essays/notes? I also have this: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY -- Which I use for gaming/general purpose.
   
   I wanted to start using my noppoo again cause I have a few long essays coming up
   
   
2. I dont particularly like the feel of the standard keys that it comes with and was thinking about swapping them out for new keycaps. What are my options in texture for a full set of keys for this keyboard? Color scheme recommendation or is there any central hub where I can see all of my options?
   

This board was posted earlier, super low profile, looks pretty nice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722GG88M

Maybe. The cheapest Topre keyboard is the Topre Type Heaven. I'm seeing them on Amazon for $150.

Is there an ideal keyboard you are envisioning in your heard?

Well if it doesn't have to be Cherry Brown Here's this link to a very reputable china brand that uses (in my eyes) superior Gateron switches. Still browns and still very nice.

Looking for budget (<$60 USD) mech kb, preferably TKL with blues/browns/something equivalent. Backlighting is nice but not necessary.
Currently I'm looking at this [Pluggable one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M301Q50/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3HIHADV23VGU1).
This gigabyte also seems good. Is the price difference worth it for the pluggable?

Magicforce are usually regarded as pretty good for the price so that one is likely no exception.

That isn't a TKL board though, it's a "75%" keyboard. It's a good layout but it will be difficult to replace the keycaps in the future because it has a non-standard bottom row and shift key.

For $60 it's a great price. My only alternative is this Team Wolf Zhuque which is quite ugly but is a true TKL and has a hot-swap switch ability.

Here's every desoldering tool I've used so far, from worst to best:

1. The one that came with my soldering station: lasted a week before falling apart.
   
2. The one I bought from radioshack. Lasted 2 weeks before falling apart.
   
3. ECG J-045-DS: Awkward to use, doesn't suck very well, no temperature adjustment, takes a long time to heat up, sprays hot solder everywhere instead of solid chunks like with the non-powered pumps.
   
4. Tenma 21-8240: Recommended by someone on this sub. Has similar issues to the ECG, except it's far less awkward to use and it does have decent suction. However, the handle is poorly insulated so it gets pretty hot after a while.
   
5. Engineer SS-02: Biggest issue with this one is dry solder getting stuck in the silicone nozzle, but that's been happening less and less as I've used it more. Good suction, good construction, no need to use a second outlet.
   

The only one I can think of is the Logitech G710+, it has exactly everything you listed. The closest I can think of is the Corsair K70, although it doesn't come with brown switches AND blue/white LEDs.

EDIT: Found the Gigabyte Osmium, also has everything you listed, although I know nothing about it. Reviews seem good, whatever looks best to you.

I'm new to mechanical keyboards. I currently own a Logitech K750 wireless solar keyboard...

I'm looking to get a mechanical keyboard for under $100 for mostly typing/writing code and some gaming. It seems like cherry browns or reds (the blues would be too clacky/too loud for me).

That said, which of these would you recommend?
http://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Mechanical-Backlight-Cable-White-Magicforce/dp/B01872MCIA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1463293362&sr=8-17&keywords=cherry+mx+brown

http://www.amazon.com/Azio-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard-MGK1/dp/B00OBA6QYY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463293220&sr=1-2&keywords=azio+keyboard

http://www.amazon.com/QuickFire-Mechanical-Keyboard-ActivLite-Technology/dp/B00JM61264/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463293891&sr=1-10&keywords=cherry+brown

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823816057&cm_re=corsair_k70-_-23-816-057-_-Product

I like how the Corsair K70 and Azio are aluminum and backlit...

gearbest doesn't seem to do hotswappable keyboards. I found a plugable keyboard on amazon within your budget which is single colour backlit, and the later version with the small logo is hotswappable. I haven't found cheap rgb keyboards to be reliable in general, but single colour type are usually ok.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MA6O13L/

I do think you should buy second hand if you can, because you can get a quality brand.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-HV-KB390L/dp/B0722GG88M?th=1&psc=1

This is a newer keyboard and I love it. I'm getting it for a friend of mine. I do believe there is a full RGB version

I bought a Rosewill RK-9000v2 a couple weeks ago for work and love it. Swapped the stock keys for a blank PBT set. I like it so much that I'm debating switching it with my main keyboard at home.

The price keeps fluctuating between ~$72 and ~$90 on this board.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S5E4KH2

If you post your preferences (Switch,RGB,Keyboard Size, etc) people may be able to help you more.

Someone posted an updated guide recently, but here's one from the Wiki:
https://www.reddit.com//r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/buying_guide

It gives a list of keyboards at different price ranges and shows the specifications of each.

As for Razer keyboards, the only one I had was a Lycosa from years ago. I spent $70 on what was pretty much the equivalent of a $8 HP keyboard with backlights. I can't say much about their newer mechanical ones though, but I tried out my sister's (Black Widow maybe?) and it didn't seem bad. I do prefer my MX Blues to whatever is in that keyboard though.

Edit: Sorry, no idea about the Ozone.

Just a technicality: generally, "tactile" means no click. Browns only make a sound when you bottom out the switch (When the key hits the backplate). Blues tend to feel similar to browns, but make a distinct click sound when pressed. So I suppose the switch choice is up to you.

The Magiforce tends to be a good entry-level board and cheaper in price than the one you presented: Magiforce 108 Brown Switch or Magiforce 108 Blue Switch. It also has standard key sizes which makes it easier to replace the keycaps in the future if you get into that.

Those o-rings would work. There are different o-rings, I personally have little experience using them. /u/lpwl made a comment in a post a while ago:


>- A thicker O-ring will reduce key travel more than a thinner one.

• A softer O-ring will make a switch quiet more effectively than a harder one.
  
• The more material the O-ring has, the more it can dampen shocks and noise.
  
  >In other words :
  
  >- If you want to quiet down the keyboard and soften the landing, get soft o-rings, ie in 40A or 50A durometer.
  
• If you want to quiet down the keyboard but keep a hard landing, get hard ones (70 - 90A durometer)... however their noise dampening won't be as good as the soft ones.
  
  Here's a good post on his website that goes more into depth about o-rings. And here's a post on Geekhack.
  
  If you want to skip reading all that then from what I've read the 40A-L Red O-Rings ($15) from WASD Keyboards is the most popular choice and Buna-N O-Ring 50A ($7). If you don't mind waiting a long time you can get o-rings on Ebay for $1.08, the measurements of this is very close to the red o-rings from WASD.

https://www.amazon.com/Rantopad-Chroma-Backlight-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01N5NZ426
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01J708CCG
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2

I'd recommend the first two unless you need a numpad. It's better ergonomics not to have one. And if you do need it, this is a good compromise.

Then you should get a good soldering station. Hakko is a really good brand. Heres one of their soldering stations: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=zg_bs_13837391_9
If thats more than what your willing to spend i've heard good things about the low end weller stations. doesn't have the highest wattage but it should be good enough for your purpose. Link: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Hobbyist-Yourselfer/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1305842734&sr=8-2-fkmr0

Rantopad MXX is what I recommend for a lot of people. This one uses Gateron blues which a lot of people here like, some people moreso than Cherry brand. Or if you want hotswappable switches to add Cherry switches down the road, then the Zhuque is a good choice

You can get an F87 or F108 for just over $100, which is going to be your cheapest high quality RGB option.


If you want non-backlight the Ducky One 2 is definitely one of the best options, though as others said you can probably snag a Leopold or Varmillo around $120, which will be another step up in build quality.

The ikbc f108 is $30 off today on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/iKBC-Double-Shot-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01LYUZJI2/ref=lp_15850361011_1_1?tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=96809902b37f11e68d773a6842ae87b90INT&srs=15850361011&ie=UTF8&qid=1480096757&sr=8-1) . Is this a solid keyboard to buy for someone looking to give brown keys a shot? Reviews, though the sample size is small, seem pretty good.

Got a soldering iron for Christmas and dove right in. This is my third 60% build, and by far my favorite.

Parts

• Clear acrylic case and Gat greens from Sentraq
  
• PCB from TechKeys
  
• Black aluminum plate and Cherry stabs from Originative
  
• DSA keycaps (PBT) from PMK
  
• LEDs from switchTop
  
• E-Projects 200 Ohm Resistors from Amazon
  
  

  Tools
  

• Solder sucker
  
• Heat Resistant Soldering Mat
  
• Hakko FX888D Soldering Station
  
• Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031"
  
• Klein Tools Lightweight Flush Cutter
  
  I'm still tweaking my QMK keymap, but will contribute it to the repo once I get it to a good spot.
  

fuck yes i want pics. sounds like you almost went with dolch style color scheme.

nice price too. did you end up with brown switches?

o-rings can be really nice if you like to bottom out all the time. i do and it saves my fingers a lot of stress with my insane cave man style of key pounding.

i bought these on amazon. they seem nice enough.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it is a nice quick little mod. it also allows me to use my board in my cubicle at work. but i use blues. you use browns? you might be able to use browns at an office or at school without disturbing people.

Logitech G710+ then. Red switches are linear (straight-down press, best for gaming), browns are tactile, and blues are clicky (pronounced bump + sound for better typing)

Definitely a good idea. Check this out though:

https://www.amazon.com/Akwox-Cherry-Switch-keyboard-Sampler/dp/B01GZHU1EG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500049008&sr=8-1&keywords=switch+tester

You can test out each switch type and see which one you like the most based on sound and feel.

This is a great list!

Plugable will have both of our keyboards $10 off on Amazon for Cyber Monday!

Links to both models on Amazon:

TKL $39.95: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M301Q50

104 $49.95: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MA6O13L

Information about our keyboards:

http://plugable.com/2016/11/02/plugables-new-mechanical-keyboards-for-typing-enthusiasts-and-gamers/

I bought a cheap brown switch from Amazon for like 35 bucks. Been my daily board for the last 4 months been pretty solid.

DREVO 84 Key Gramr Backlit Edition Tenkeyless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Brown Switch Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6DHITE