Best products from r/Miami

Hey OP, I love the enthusiasm, it's what people in this career need! I'd like to provide some advice before the class begins.

I'm in cyber security, participate in pentesting for clients, and visit local security meetups between Miami, Tampa, and Orlando.

Take my advice with a grain of salt as I'm just a person on the internet:

I have the CEH, took it v9. It did nothing for my career. The CEH is basically a memorization exam that doesn't teach practical skills. Some topics include, what tool would you use for this? Or for that?

The CEH's only merit is it complies with the DoD's requirements 8570.01-M requirements. That being said, paying for the bootcamp and the exam will cost a lot of money for little gain. Reason? Many companies hiring for pentesters/red teams overlook the CEH.

CompTIA's Security+ is $339 (you can get it cheaper with a student email/voucher) and once completed, you fulfill the same DoD requirements and you're able to jump into the Cyber Security field. There are free resources on YouTube and a great book on Amazon costs $30.

>But what if I want to get into PenTesting and Exploit Hunting?

Take the OSCP. That certification hold a lot more value as it's a 24 hour exam based on your performance hacking boxes.

The EJPT is also one that hold more weight than the CEH.

And if you can afford it or, preferably, your employer will pay for it, a SANS is highly regarded.

Swing by r/SecurityCareerAdvice - It's a great community willing to help you get that career you want.

THE SWAMP is a great read. If you have the time to read all 900+ pages of it, there's no better novel about early Florida history than Peter Matthiessen's SHADOW COUNTRY.

Another good one that's more historical, albeit a bit salacious, is UP FOR GRABS, which reads like a shorter version of THE SWAMP (focused a bit more on recent history and Miami specifically) if it were written by Hunter S. Thompson. Two words for you: "Mescaline bagels." It was recommended to me personally by Billy Corben when I was writing an article on Tom Wolfe's BACK TO BLOOD (which I thought sucked).

T.D Allman also put out a pretty decent -- if at times shrill and overtly political -- contrarian take on Florida's history in the past two years. That one's called FINDING FLORIDA, and it shines a nice light on some of the state's forgotten figures, like Zephaniah Kingsley.

Last but not least, I definitely recommend LAST TRAIN TO PARADISE by Les Standiford (FAU creative writing faculty). It's an overview of Flagler's Folly and the whole line from Jacksonville down to Key West. Fascinating read, chock full o' great anecdotes.

(Florida history is one of my favorite things in the world, if you can't tell.)

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

Just be careful and dont get a beach cruiser!!!!! id recommend a hybrid bike like a trek 7.1 and put a rack on it for panniers so you can carry your stuff. Also if you are over weight i highly recommend a brooks saddle i have a b17 and its wonderful on my ass. Also bike shorts 4.3 miles aint long, but it will make your life much easier. A cheap walmart bike will break often and be expensive to repair. Refer over to r/bicycling to learn more if you are strapped for cash id go with this bike its a good all rounder and bikesdirect is a good company, or a trek and the seat brooks b17 bike rack panniers shorts
Once again do not buy a bike from walmart it will make you hate bicycling. Oh also rules and sheldon brown a repository of all things cycling
Best of luck to you, safe riding and Dont buy this!!

When you're just getting started, best buy is alright, but it's when you get more into it you start to need specific gear. For example, none of the ones I've been to lately sell neutral density filters, these pretty much just make it darker, which you would want if you do video, or especially for long exposure.

Also a lot of their off brand stuff is just rebranded gear that is sold for twice as much. Ex, this flash, compared to the same one online

• Insignia from Best Buy for $69
  
• Neewer from Amazon for $33
  (I wish they showed the backs of the flash so you could see, but you just have to trust me that they are the same :/ )
  
  They don't carry much accessories for video with for a DSLR, like a glidecam, gimbal, or fluid head. They carry the basics, just not any of the more specialized gear.

I've posted this on a few front page threads recently and hundreds of people who bought the same mattress agreed, i got this king memory foam mattress from Amazon for $300 delivered the next day. It's honestly the most comfortable bed i ever been on and i love it. The best thing that's ever happened to mattresses, and it can't get cheaper. The queen and smaller sizes are around $100-250$

Don't ever buy a mattress on Craigslist

FIU CS Major Here Class of 99,
The school was much smaller back then, But curriculum and education was good and very competitive.
The Labs were VAX and Sun Sparc Stations back then but eventually migrated to Unix and Windows. Beginner's Programming was in Pascal, Intermediate was ADA and Advanced was C++ (I know for a fact that changed).
One notable thing:
My Data Structures professor wrote the book that was used in universities nationwide.
(might still be)

As far as University Life, there was very little to none, there's no "University Spirit" it's not in a College Town, its a true commuter school, you get there take classes and go home. (this may have changed a bit, but I think not)

EDIT: Black Listed by Tech Companies? Source or Confirmation? My class of 99 mates work for: (Oracle, IBM, EMC, VMWare, Motorola, Citrix, Fujitsu, and numerous Consulting Firms)

In this day and age, its more about what you know than what's on the paper.
If it makes financial sense go for it. FIU is as good as school as any other.

I got mine off craigslist. But be careful, make sure you ask to look at it first and give it a good look. Make sure it doesn't sputter or have ignition problems. Check for rust or damage. Check the throttle and make sure it has a little play but is still responsive. You don't want a scooter with either too tight of a throttle (means it hasn't been used in a while and is stiff) or too loose of a throttle (It means it's been used pretty hard and rough).

If you can ask for a maintenance log I would (receipts or user logs of work done with dates). I purchased a motorcycle that cost me $600 in tune up repairs. The previous owner hadn't changed the spark plugs or the oil in years.

Once you purchase the scooter I would advise giving it a complete maintenance. Change out the oil (you don't know how long the previous owner left it in there). Check all the fairings and bolts to make sure they aren't loose. Replace the air filter. I would also, personally, put new tires (since I don't know the state of them and don't want one to break on me mid drive).

At the very least when you go to check out a scooter just check all the metal parts to make sure there is no rust and check the plastic parts of evidence of damage (such as falling off or from an accident). They are clear and visual signs.

---

My last suggestions will be to check out /r/scooters for advice and maybe buy a scooter/motorcycle maintenance book. You can get one for like 8 bucks at any bookstore.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Owners-Manual-Hugo-Wilson/dp/0789416158/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426186391&sr=1-4&keywords=motorcycle+maintenance

This is the one I have. Even though the title states Motorcycle, it has information about scooters as well. The only bad reviews on the site come from experienced people that are complaining about a book made for beginners.

Stuff like this: "Don't by this if you are expecting any in-depth technical information as its not much better than a simple owners manual".

The book is not meant to be in-depth. It's supposed to be entry level. If your scooter doesn't come with a manual, it's a good basic start.

I did too! But, "urban gardening" is becoming a big thing in Miami. Organic Methods for Vegetable Gardening in Florida is a great book I found on amazon. Also, this guy on Youtube did a bunch of great videos about what grows in south florida and when…he has a lot of…enthusiasm and some of the videos are a little long…but he knows his stuff. He was very helpful.

Folks, You can pick up a used body on Amazon for $350-400

That leaves $200 for 2 crap lenses and a spare battery. Sorry, but your offer is optimistic at best even with full docs and a bill of sale.

I would not touch this deal unless OP has retail boxes, papers, packaging and receipts and are willing to give a BILL OF SALE backed up with a copy of their ID (same as any pawnshop would want) .

That being said....

OP - if you have receipts, boxes and docs, try ebay. Run your auction for 10 days and set it up so it closes on a Sunday night. Take better pics detailing condition of lens front and rear glass, include pics showing serial numbers and POST the serial numbers on the ad. Thats how you get taken seriously.

If you are willing to do that, you should get a decent bid. I don't think you are going to get anyone to bid @ $600 for that kit on CL but you never know, sucker born every minute.

This is the one I used but I'm pretty sure you can find some that have better video quality than the one I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2GMWCG/

Some of the many options for cell phone mounting in vehicles include:

• CD-slot (you're not using CDs anyway – it's 2019, amiright?)
  
• Air vent (personally I dislike because I want that sweet AC @ 100%)
  
• Cupholder (not ideal for sure, but better than hand holding it)
  
• Windshield suction cup (can be positioned literally anywhere)
  
• Dashboard clip (might be a little sketchy on bumps)
  
• Adhesive dashboard (not guaranteed to hold up in high temps)
  
• Steering wheel "hammock" (super sketchy, but hey)
  
• Seat bolts (I use one of these for my iPad – it's OK)
  
  That's plenty of options I think. So I feel confident when I assert anyone who is not using one of those options either has a car so specialized it probably shouldn't be on the street anyway (Ariel Atom?) or they're just making empty excuses because their feelings are hurt by being told not to be unsafe.
  
  FWIW, I'm actually opposed to the law philosophically. But I'll take that to another part of the thread.