I think I have more sanding devices than paints. :)

Here's what I use:

Building

• 600 grit sheets, available anywhere from auto parts to hardware stores. I use this as a general cutting paper, to remove emblems, take out mold seams, etc.
  
• 1500 & 2000 grit sheets, same availability, used to remove scratches from the 600, or remove blemishes where I don't need to cut deep
  
• 3000 grit Trizact - this stuff is amazing. It's like a thin sponge, really easy to work with, and does a great job at removing scratches from the 1500/2000 grits. Also used to rough up entire surface before priming/painting to give the surface some "bite" for the paint
  
• Sanding sticks - probably what I use the most, these are great for anything and everything, from removing seams to trimming flash to shaping parts. A set usually as varying degrees of coarse, medium, fine, ultra-fine. These sticks by Stevens International are the best I've found after trying various brands
  
• Flex-I-File - great for curved pieces, awesome for sanding out seams on axles and other round parts. Order a pack of refills; though they work great, they do wear out fast.
  
• Sanding Sticks - these are so handy, great for tight spots, inside grills, interior, corners and edges, you name it. Always make several passes using successively finer grits.
  
  Paint & Finish
  
  
• 600 - as above, used to cut & remove material
  
• 1500 - same, removes scratches from 600, but mainly used to level surface after paint coats; removes orange peel and texture
  
• 3000 Trizact - give everything a once-over as mentioned above, can't express how much I love this stuff.
  
• 3200-12000 grit polishing pads - after the surface is level, start with 3200 and work up through 12000. The 3200 does a good job at cutting/creating a smooth surface. All other grits above that remove scratches from the previous passes until you get a near mirror-finish with the 12000
  
• Novus Polishing System - consists of heavy scratch remover, light scratch remove, and silicone polish. This is what takes your model from looking good to being show quality. You know that feeling of sliding a cloth over a freshly waxed car? Same thing here after using the silicone. Really gives it a slick, wax-like coating
  
  Here's an album of how I finish out a paint job.

Welcome to the subreddit! I think I can answer a couple of your questions about paint. Some people swear by doing it outside when the weather is nice, especially in the cooler months, where humidity and dust aren't as prevalent. I personally paint indoors. I picked up a paint booth from Amazon for under 80 bucks and it works great! I just vent the fumes outside through a partially opened window with the vent the booth comes with.

Paint booth from Amazon

As for preparing the body. I've always been told to wash and dry the parts involved first with soap and water, then allow to dry completely. You can accelerate this with a dust free cloth or hair dryer, pick your poison. Then sand the body with a 600 grit grade of sandpaper, rinse again, and wet sand (body and paper are wet with 1000-1200 grit) Once that's done, you're ready for priming. Model builders who are way better at this than me typically recommend 1-2 coats of primer, the color depends on the body color. So for bright colors, use a white primer. For darker colors, use a grey primer. After you've primed a couple times, its time to take the body and sand it again, with 1200 grit. Get it all smooth, then shoot the color. First three coats are mist coats, sprayed 10-12 inches from the model, very light coats. After that comes 2 or 3 wet coats, sprayed closer to the model, careful not to overpaint or you'll get dripping or pooling in some spots.

There are lots of forums for modelers, including this one. The mods here put together a painting FAQ you can see on the right side of this page. I like your truck! Looks great! I hope some of these answers help.

The wheels I'm getting are these. The bronze TE37's by Aoshima must have been discontinued or sold out, I had them in my amazon cart for months, but they're unavailable now. I can't find them anywhere else either. I was really hoping I'd find them those as I want a set for my mk4 Supra.

I was just gonna do some body mods. I really like the Liberty Walk GTR, but I'm just going to tone that down some as it's my first time doing anything like that.

Pearl white may look good on it. There's only one kit of mine that's white. ('68 Judge) I'd do the gunmetal but both my RC R34 Z-tune and 1/24 R34 v-spec II are already that color.

Thank you for all the suggestions :)

Hi - nothing ruined I bet - we've all been there. There is a product known as Purple Power, as well as some other brand names depending on your location, that you can soak your model in to remove the primer. Be very careful - it's a degreaser and it's safe for basic styrene but will take a toll on your skin. ;) Soak the painted model for several hours - most if not all of the paint will be removed and you can start again. You may not need to remove all the existing primer, just enough to get a good smooth new coat on. There may be other products or methods out there, I bet you get a lot of helpful replies - you might try google as well. Good luck!! Post up when you've finished the model! :)

https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

​

There may be other products or methods out there - you might try google.

Something like this would be awesome. The spokes and center of the wheel can be solid if the 3d printing can’t do holes that small. Otherwise something like that, with the hub deeper than the rim itself, would be awesome.

And any roof rack would be awesome! Even a simple one that is only the cross bars, like a typical Thule or Yakima rack. Thanks man!

Good questions. Yes there is Testors special glue for clear parts. It's basically PVA (Elmer's) glue and it has a fairly weak hold. Wood glue is a type of PVA glue - that's probably why you read that it will work. Let me list a few other options that I use.

​

1. Formula 560 Canopy Glue by Pacer - This is like a Testor's clear parts glue (a PVA) but much stronger.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Canopy-Glue-Flexible-2oz/dp/B0006O8EVM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3L2U59ZA98WJS&keywords=formula+560+canopy+glue&qid=1558440227&s=gateway&sprefix=formula+560%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3
   
   ​
   
   
2. SuperGold + by Bob Smith Industries - This is a very strong CA glue (superglue). It's special because it's a superglue (and I think the only one too) that doesn't release fumes and won't fog up clear parts.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-139H-Super-Gold/dp/B01FWZNQ1M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=supergold+%2B+glue&qid=1558440381&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell
   
   ​
   
   Hope this helps

Looks like washes and pigments. For this and a lot of the weathering I've come across, a couple simple cheap things can give a really convincing result:

• A few colors of oil paint: for example this
  
• Oil-based thinner: for example this
  
• A few colors of pastel chalk
  
  

  Washes
  

  
  Put a pea-sized drop of oil paint in a small container, add some oil-based thinner, and mix it up. You'll end up with a mixture about the consistency of milk or coffee, in whatever color you're using. (Neutral darks -- blacks/browns -- are good starting points)
  
  Now dip your brush and do a test on scrap plastic. Too thick? Add thinner to the container, re-mix, re-test. Too thin? Add paint. Once you've got it how you like it, apply it to the model. Can go heavy or light depending what you're going for.
  
  Then brush/swab the excess away, leaving behind however much you want in whatever places you want. Voila, you have washed the piece. Plus you can spot-add wherever looks good (probably don't want it too thin for this -- fuel stains, grime, oil residue, etc) then use a q-tip to blend it just right.
  
  Don't need the "system" that Vallejo/Tamiya/all the others are happy to sell you. Using basic oils gives you way more flexibility and control. And it's dirt cheap.
  
  

  Pigments
  

  
  Same idea as above: find the color(s) you like/need. Crush up a bit of the pastel, get it on the brush, dab it on the model wherever you want, however much you want. Gives a dusty/used look.

https://www.amazon.com/AW-Portable-Airbrush-Extension-Powerful/dp/B00Y83Y1C8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=model+paint+booth&qid=1563384851&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

I've been using this for a year now. Love it.

You probably have dust from the ceiling falling on your wet paint. Get a big clear plastic container and cover your parts after painting so they stay clean.

I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush%C2%AE-Portable-Airbrush-Extension/dp/B00NLQ019A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469039471&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+booth



Loved it so much I bought another one to increase the size! One is enough for all cars and most planes. If you like to built huge 1/48 planes you'll need two pushed together.

I use Bob Smith Industries Super Gold + Works well for me.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Gold-Odorless-1oz-Adhesive-Glue/dp/B0000DD1QM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=PUKNSYEBL5E8&keywords=super+gold+plus+glue&qid=1568584179&s=gateway&sprefix=super+gld+plys%2Caps%2C257&sr=8-1

Here’s the link. STYLIO Office Desk Organizer - Caddies for Office/ Teacher Supplies – Translucent Black & White Caddy Organizer Racks (Set Of 4) Perfect for Desktops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6S0V3A?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf