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Some suggestions for things you can do in Toronto to prepare:

• Buy the book Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills which will give you a basic understanding of the skills, gear, and systems used in the mountains, including a lot of the lingo you'll hear.
  
  
• Buy the book Training for the Uphill Athlete which will give you a good understanding of how to train for the mountains. They also have an older book Training for the New Alpinism, but it has a slight bias towards technical climbing. Both are very similar and both would teach you what you need to know. The stick figure version is do a LOT of very easy trail running (slow enough to converse in full sentences) and work on general strength (lots of core work). Gradually increase the amount you are doing and then start to mix in things like carrying a heavy pack up a steep hike or stairs in the months leading up to your climb. Their website uphillathlete.com has a lot of good info, and premade training plans if you just want to drop $50 and be told what to do.
  
  
• Train lots based on the above.
  
  
• Get really good at backpacking. You'll want to be very comfortable doing an overnight trip with minimal gear. This isn't strictly necessary since some routes can be done car-to-car, but many mountains will involve at least one night camping on the mountain so being good at overnight backpacking trips will really open up a lot more options.
  
  Once you are "mountain fit" and have the basic book learning done, there are a couple of ways to actually get on to a mountain. One way is to take a multi-day course offered by a guiding company that includes an ascent of a mountain. This will cost in the ball park of $1000 for the course itself, plus travel to get to the mountain. This teaches you many of the skills you need and gets you onto big routes quickly, but costs more.
  
  The other way to is learn the basic skills of crampon usage, self belay, self arrest, camping in the snow, etc. by finding people willing to show you. A common source of those people are climbing clubs (the Mountaineers in Seattle, Mountain Ascent Association in California, I'm sure there are plenty in Canada). This also gives you a way to meet people to climb mountains with in the future. You could also take a 1-2 day skills course from a guide company, these will generally be cheaper (~$200-400) but probably won't involve a summit climb and you'll still have to figure out how to find people to climb mountains with in the future. Then once you have those basic skills you start small and easy and build up your skillset yourself over multiple trips to the mountains. This takes way longer to get to big impressive mountains, but many people get more satisfaction out of climbing a mountain if they aren't relying on a guide to get them there safely. You could probably do a lot of this early learning in the Whites as mentioned elsewhere in this thread before moving on to the ranges with bigger routes.
  
  One thing I like to do is pick a goal mountain that you really want to do. I personally love climbing climbing the Cascade volcanos so my first goal mountain was Mt. Rainier. Lots of stuff in the Rockies, both in the US and Canada, the Sierra in California, Coastal range in Canada. Just find a mountain that inspires you. Hard to give recommendations since there are just so many options if you include all of the US and Canada and its largely personal preference of what you are looking for.
  
  If going with the first option of taking a mountaineering course, often you can find one that includes your goal mountain and you are done, move on to a bigger goal mountain. :)
  
  If going the second route, research the common/easiest route up that mountain and see what skills you need to climb it. Then find some routes that teach you the skills you need but don't have but are still within your comfort level and go climb them. Rinse and repeat. I think the hardest part here is finding people that are just a little more advanced than you are to do these routes with and learn from them. As you do more climbs your network of people to climb with will grow.

I got into it through rock climbing, as many others have. The skills and tools of the rock climber are foundations for mountaineering. (Ironic, since I see much of rock climbing as a weekend sport created out of mountaineerss training.) Climbing is a very broad discipline that combines rock climbing technique, rope work, risk management, hiking and general athleticism to reach physical goals. (Mountain tops!)
As such, it can be transitioned into from a number of angles. I know a group from a yoga school that quickly excelled at rock climbing and eventually added two more mountaineers to the community. I also know several people from college hiking and outing clubs that have expanded into winter hiking and then mountaineering.
At some point, if you choose to pursue mountaineering and the more technical climbs to be found, you WILL find yourself in a gym or out on a crag rock climbing. Mountaineering is essentially rock climbing + winter hiking + OINK.

The fundamentals are learned from a lot of reading and studying the technical literature, and patient progression through practice. Other mountaineers (especially experienced ones) are invaluable, and a very important resource for learning and safety. I highly recommend getting involved with a community like MountainProject and looking for outdoor groups and climbing groups in your area.
The question is - what can you climb near where you live? If you're in Kansas, you're going to have a hard time of it. Seattle, Boston, Denver, Geneva, you're all set.
I live near the White Mountains of New Hampshire and am up there every other weekend pushing some new limit. A few years ago i did my first winter backpacking trip. Then, shortly after, my first winter hike on exposed summits with crampons and an ax. Last winter I bought ice tools and moved into multi-pitch technical climbing of ice, snow gullies and mixed routes. If you have mountains nearby to explore and practice on, there are years of fun to be had in them. Find local guidebooks. You'd be amazed how many cliffs and trails and gullies have been graded and compiled.
Lastly - buy a a couple books on mountaineering and start at home. The books are essential knowledge, you'll get an idea of what's involved, and they should whet your appetite and inspire you to seek out places to go and get your climb on.
Good climbing partners can be friends or people you get to know from the local climbing gym or forums. Having someone to learn and progress with and share the adventure is awesome. Finding like-minded people is surprisingly easy when all you need is passion and dedication. (And balls)

If I could recommend one resource it would be "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills." Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills https://www.amazon.com/dp/1594851387/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a1fVzbRK7WTZR. Although honestly nothing can replace going out and getting outdoors in the mountains, either with a guide or a friend who knows what they are doing. Baker is a good starter mountain, but if you want to stay clear of crevasses, Mt. Adams is a really good option to learn crampons, ice axe and rope skills without the big risks. I'm on my phone or else I could go into much more detail, but feel free to PM me and I'd be more than happy to recommend guide groups, climbs, gear, etc. Welcome to the world of mountaineering, its beautiful!

The Mountaineers, like you already mentioned, may be your best bet. Washington Alpine Club is another option, though they are also passed the registration period for classes this year. You could certainly continue climbing and gaining experience on things you feel comfortable on, lots of snow climbing around here doesn't require glacier travel or even much experience, just use of ice axe/crampons and a love for long walks. Examples include Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens in early season, and basically anything in the Washington Scrambles book (highly recommended) during early season.

You could also try posting over at Cascade Climbers for partners - the only thing I recommend is being very upfront about your level of experience (or lack thereof). If you overstate your experience, trust me, your partner will know, and they'll likely decline to climb with you again.

My recommendation is that you should get your own systems dialed before asking for partners/team. You mention you have steep snow (and ice?) experience? I'm going to assume you don't have much glacier travel or crevasse rescue experience, and likely no alpine rock experience either. Lacking these skills, what you are asking for is essentially a free guide service, or someone to teach you all the technical stuff while assuming all the risk.

That said, my recommendation is to actually hire a guide for a 'skill session.' You can often find one, two, or three day crevasse rescue courses, and then supplement that hands-on knowledge with some old fashioned book reading, as well as tons of practice on your own time. Once you get everything dialed, then post on Cascade Climbers, and I bet you'll have good luck with someone willing to take you out.

My personal recommendation if you are new to mountaineering you will enjoy and get more out of a trip out in the Rockies. More chances for route finding opportunities and a more gradual transition into snow travel and the ability to do more mountains in the same amount of time!. I've done Shasta, Rainier, Glacier NP, Grand Teton NP, and CO 14ers for a frame of reference. You could

1.) Pick up the bible of moutaineering in Glacier NP and pick as many mountains and routes as your heart desires. MAP One itinerary: fly into Kalispell, drive into Glacier NP (the best NP imo) to Logan Pass and start with one of the best mountain vistas I've ever witnessed on Reynolds Mountain the first day, there's so many to choose from but Chief Mountain for the 2nd day, Allen and/or Wynn the 3rd, big day including Iceberg Peak, Ahern and Swiftcurrent for the fourth.

2.) MAP Fly into Colorado Springs, drive out to Lake City and do Uncompaghre and Wetterhorn the first day; Red Cloud, Sunshine, and Handies the second day; Ellingwood, Blanca and optional Little Bear the third day and; the Crestone Peak and Needle the fourth day with a not too far drive back to Colorado Springs.


I would choose the second one because I would save GNP for a trip when you have more time.

You’re probably looking at high winds at best and white out at worst if it turns.

As soon as you leave Muir you’re in glacial terrain. The guides keep a trade route pretty well established throughout the summer and that’s what makes it easy for people to just run up behind them but their last runs usually end before Oct so their routes are probably out by now. The route can change frequently so having route finding skills is a must unless you piggy-back some climbers that know what they’re doing (which again, I don’t recommend). There’s a reason Rainier is a training ground for US climbers. It’s a long day, can get technical, and I’ve seen people who thought they were in good shape turn around before DC. I think climbers that grow up in the Swiss alps would think Rainier is pretty mild but I wouldn’t discount it. You can drive to the visitor center but getting to Muir is like 5k ft of hiking itself, most people need 2 days to summit.

If you’re serious about climbing it I’d recommend getting this guide and asking yourself if it’s within your skill set. I’d also recommend calling RMI or IMG and see if they’re willing to share route info with you. Gonna need a solo permit too so look into that if going solo.

Mount Rainier Climbing Guide 3E: A Climbing Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/159485842X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KtnXDbKC35YQY

Being with guides doesn't lower your risk of edema, but it does make it more likely that you will make it down alive and survive it (assuming they have medical training, rescue experience, etc). The only way to reduce the risk of edema is to take the time to properly acclimatize and reduce the time spent at altitude. Guides can help you set up this program, but it is up to you to monitor your condition and recognize the signs of AMS early to avoid more serious conditions developing.
If you really want to do this you should pick up Steve House's book "Training for the New Alpinism" to structure the proper training program, https://www.amazon.com/Training-New-Alpinism-Climber-Athlete/dp/193834023X. This book has the overview of what you would need to know to properly train for your objective including discussion of acclimatization schedules and strategies for succeeding at altitude.
I'm sure people with less experience/forethought than you have summited Aconcagua with a guide company, but you have to decide whether this a reasonable objective for you. You may want to call around to reputable guiding companies and describe your experience/fitness level and see what they say. Your post doesn't give much detail as to what your fitness level/experience in the outdoors is.
The bottom line is that you shouldn't underestimate the altitude, Aconcagua is well above the altitude at which HACE/HAPE, hypothermia, strokes, etc all become serious risks that are difficult to minimize and can strike very quickly with deadly consequences. You will be ~2000 m above lost city at the summit. Make sure your guiding company has the proper medical training, medical supplies, and rescue experience to get you down safely if you suffer one of these conditions.
Here is some resources you may find useful:
http://www.alanarnette.com/climbing/guidequestions.php
http://www.alanarnette.com/7summits/aconcaguafaq.php
http://www.alanarnette.com/climbing/guides.php
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4JqV2xdcaQ

Avalanches and Snow Safety by Colin Fraser

Pretty old now, but I'm finding it very well written. Probably a bit outdated in terms of information and suggested practices, but who cares... read it along with "modern" avalanche training or something. It covers a lot of snow theory, has heaps of awesome old stories, and makes you think about snow, avalanches, and scientific progress in general, from a different perspective. Never stop learning!

https://www.amazon.com/Avalanches-snow-safety-Colin-Fraser/dp/0684147947

Can't speak for Denali - as I haven't done it or anything nearly as big (~16,000 feet is the highest I've gone) but it's on my radar for the not so distant future. I live in Colorado and it sounds like you are also a Colorado local. You should check out this guide book - Colorado Snow Climbs. There are a lot of fantastic climbs out here that will make for great practice for Denali. These are also a ton less crowded than the front/sawatch range 14ers - even in winter/spring.

I was up there yesterday! Here is an album of what it looked like.

It was beautiful. Had a really great time. There were maybe 10 other people on the trail for the day. One guy was up there in blue jeans for some reason.

This was my second winter ascent. Did Camel's Hump last weekend. I used the Sunset Ridge Trail for both the ascent and descent. I used Hillsound Trail Crampons most of the way and they did a great job. I used trekking poles as well.

There was plenty of ice, especially on exposed ridges, and there were a few tricky places, but with crampons it was not a problem. The wind was pretty severe on the summit. I was almost blown over a couple times and did not linger up there. The snow was waist deep in places along the ridge approaching the Chin. Snowshoes would probably be helpful as winter progresses.

Not sure if an axe would be necessary on this route, but I haven't seen what it is like up there in January.

There are too many wonderful non-technical ascents to name. You may be interested in these books:

Washington Scrambles - if you buy this one, make sure it's the 2nd edition that I linked. lots of stuff here, including some multi-day traverses.

Climbing Washington's Mountains - I really like this one. A great mix of technical and non-technical summits.

Make sure you do your research and double-check routes and conditions on nwhikers.net, cascadeclimbers.com, and summitpost before going out on any trip you read about in a book, though!

Some summits off the top of my head: Sahale, Ruth, Hinman and Daniel, St. Helens and Adams, Three-Fingers, McGregor, Echo and Observation Rocks (near Rainier), Gothic Peak, The Brothers (Olympics), Hidden Lake Peaks (do the ridge from the lookout to Sibley Creek and down to the trail).

I've used these ones for 4 years

https://www.amazon.com/Julbo-Colorado-Mountain-Sunglasses-Spectron/dp/B001O0DN4K/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1522907520&sr=8-27&keywords=julbo

They are fucking great. I wish they were a bit more snug around the eyes though, I sometimes have to slide them up my nose. They have a slight sepia tone, which is easy to get used to. I've used them both on bright days on rock and on bluebird days in the mountains.

That makes sense. I need to redo my layering system then I was under the impression wool was best for base layer before this due to its ability to stay warm while wet / sweating.

Still learning how to layer for summit attempts (6000m+) such as Acongagua etc. So I'd appreciate any advice on the below

My current layering / what I have now is:

Top:

MERIWOOL Mens Base Layer 100% Merino Wool Heavyweight 400g Half Zip Sweater

Mid layer is an Arcteryx Atom LT hoody.

Arcteryx Alpha SV for a hard shell. Figured this is better than Beta SV since it's higher pockets and more climbing / alpine focused to my understanding.

Arcteryx Cerium LT for a puffy / base camp.

Bottom:

Marmot precip pants as rain shell.
Standard Columbia ridge zip off hiking pants for approach
400gsm wool base layer long johns
Arcteryx polyester AR briefs and merino

Know I'm missing soft shell pants here... Not sure which to get. I've heard the outdoor Research cirque are good.

Feet:

Polyester / Nylon liner socks: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AK8EE4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PL7QDb93KT3MG

Heavy thick alpaca socks. My feet get cold very easily. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018IY2K1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pK7QDb2W2EWE3

Lighter weight merino / darn tough and some kinesiology tape for wrapping blisters etc.

Not sure what I'm missing out of this and how to improve besides on obvious expedition parka for clothing. Boots etc excluded obviously.

I think the heavyweight merino base layer, mid insulated layer, and 800 fill down cover needing an expedition parka with a hard shell for potential wind on summit assuming it stays around 6000m?

If drying is a problem with merino.. I can add polyester / polypropylene base layer under and this, merino base layer, shell should be good for approach and anything under summit?

Higher altitude / cold add mid layer and shell in harsher conditions?

A marathon lasts 2-5 hours, depending on how good you are, and relies almost entirely on your aerobic energy system. Mountaineering lasts at least twice as long, 8-12 hours a day for several days in a row. So the advice here to slow down and focus on long, easy aerobic endurance training is good.

The people advising you to focus on short, high-intensity training are misguided. Being an aerobic endurance event, mountaineering uses mostly your aerobic energy system, which is trained through long, easy efforts. The high-intensity, short-duration efforts train your anaerobic energy systems, which wont' help you on a 12-hour climb. This is high-school level exercise science, but for some reason it isn't well understood on the Internet.

If you are serious about training for this climb then you should read Training for the New Alpinism by big-deal alpinist Steve House and his coach Scott Johnson. It is the standard text and will be the best $24 you ever spend on mountaineering.

I trekked the Himalayas with my Canon Mark IV, and a 24-70 L glass lens. What I did was bought a cheap case from Amazon and took the strap off. I then took parachute cord and tied one end to a carabiner clip and the other to the area where the strap would attach. I did this on the other side as well. Then I used the carabiner clips to attach the camera holster to my pack so that the bag is on my side touching my hip. This takes some adjustment since you need to figure out (a) where you want to clip to on your hiking pack (b) make the parachute cord that length. Once you have the lengths down, you can reinforce the cord by braiding it. What you end up with is a way to keep your camera in a case but the option to pull it out quickly at any moment. I loved this system as I could keep my hiking pack on while still having access to my camera. It also protected my camera when I took a nasty fall down some rocks.

Here’s a picture of what it looks like from the back. I unfortunately can’t find a shot from the side.

If I would do it all over again, I would bring a mirrorless camera with one or two of the best prime glass I can buy. My camera weight was a significant portion of my pack weight. It was so worth it, but after 300 miles I also wished for something a little lighter.

I love hiking and climbing mountains in the Sierra. There are literally hundreds of peaks over 10K ft that can be done in a day depending on fitness.

The best resource, IMO, is R.J. Secor's guide book "The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, Trails." His book gives a high level overview of everything that's out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Mountaineering-Handbook-Modern-Tools-Techniques/dp/0071430105

I have this and FOTH. I think FOTH is better and more clear and comprehensive. Honestly, if there is something to learn by reading it's in FOTH. Otherwise I would turn you to youtube, there are tons of lessons on there. Including Jeff Lowe's ice climbing technique. Just search for what you want to know and you will at the very least see it being done.

> I'd love to find a good Denali book.

Minus 148 Degrees is another good Denali book on the first winter ascent

https://www.amazon.com/Minus-148-Degrees-Art-Davidson/dp/0898866871/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr=

Start hiking in the mountains in NJ, NY, MD and further in NE or down in the Apps. Find a rock climbing gym and get in as much time as you can there. Colorado rules, I live in Denver and don't ever want to leave. Moving here just because you want to climb mountains without experience, not a good idea. Start reading and training. Once you feel ready then decide where to move. Best book you will ever find for helping you in your quest for mountaineering is here. http://www.amazon.com/Mountaineering-Freedom-Hills-8th-Edition/dp/1594851387

The question of how warm is a bit of a variable depending on the individual and circumstances - weight, temperatures, fitness, duration and intensity of activity etc.

I'm guessing you mean the base layer items from Target or Costco? As long as you feel it suits you for the conditions, go for it. Although it should be noted that its always nice to have the option of taking off layers in the event its too warm rather then be stuck without additional layers if you're too cold.

Generally, as long as you keep moving, especially given that you're in snow and ascending, I find it much more challenging to avoid sweating then any issue with cold. Alternatively, if you're in a situation where you're belaying or taking an extended rest, the cold can pose a real danger.

If you're able to, check out this book - Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. Considered a fundamental of mountaineering, very comprehensively written with a section dealing specifically with optimal attire for different circumstances

One guy that comes to mind, big on safety, started at 50. I think you're making a mountain out of a molehill.

Find a mountaineering club, and jump in to whatever classes they have. Also, there is a great book to get.

http://www.amazon.com/Mountaineering-Freedom-Hills-8th-Edition/dp/1594851387

I would definitely suggest picking up a copy of freedom of the hills http://www.amazon.com/Mountaineering-Freedom-Hills-8th-Edition/dp/1594851387

Another one you could look at would be the Mountaineers. The Basic Alpine course for the Seattle branch should be listed fairly soon and begin around January. As for getting prepared I would read Freedom of the Hills, start hiking where you get some elevation gain and checking out a rock gym in the metro area.

I went through the Basic Alpine course earlier and while I recommend it you should expect to spend around 1-2k for the course and gear.

I love Platypus and/or Nalgene soft bottles. Fill 'em when you need 'em, roll 'em up when you don't.

https://www.amazon.com/Platypus-2-Liter-Ultralight-Collapsible-Bottle/dp/B000J2KEGY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=platypus+soft+bottle&qid=1563996588&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

https://www.amazon.com/Nalgene-Wide-Mouth-Cantene-32-Ounce/dp/B001J4NDXW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=nalgene+soft+bottle&qid=1563996615&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Freedom of The Hills should anwser most of your questions, FYI the tallest peak in Arizona takes no montainneering experiance, via weather ford Trail, so you'll only need regular hiking stuff. Do you have any far out goals? It might be easier to give better advice based on your goals.

You should pick up a copy of Freedom of the Hills.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1680510045/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SeUWBbTQDT8PX

According to Training for the New Alpinism the majority of your training should actually be in Zone 1 or, more generally, at a level of effort where you can breathe exclusively through your nose. Lots of great information from the authors here: http://www.uphillathlete.com

Drink alot of water, and be in very good aerobic shape. Read the book Training for the new Alpinism. https://www.amazon.com/Training-New-Alpinism-Climber-Athlete/dp/193834023X

Also just in general check out Training for the New Alpinism. It has a really good personal workout journal companion too.

My maps show ~4.5mi to Second Lake, after which maybe ~1.5mi up to Contact Pass (maybe a little longer depending on route finding).

The book would be Secor's The High Sierra: http://www.amazon.com/The-High-Sierra-Passes-Trails/dp/0898869714/ref=pd_sim_b_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1CM9B8Y051EQPXBNRFEW . He has a short description of the route you describe in there, just in case you're curious.

And get this book, http://www.amazon.ca/Training-New-Alpinism-Climber-Athlete/dp/193834023X and there is your entire FAQ

https://www.amazon.com/Mountaineering-Freedom-Hills-Mountaineers/dp/1680510045

I use these ones. You can find them for $40-50.

https://www.amazon.com/Julbo-Colorado-Mountain-Sunglasses-Spectron/dp/B001O0DN4K

Here is the mobile version of your link