Best products from r/Multicopter

To be honest, you're being quite vague about what experience you want to have. But given that you mentioned the Amazon gift card, I'll throw you some options from there, since you may view it as an opportunity to just 'blow' the money on something you otherwise wouldn't spend your own cash on.

If you are possibly interested in FPV, you could do worse than an all in one kit with a whoop, controller and goggles. It's really entry level/fun stuff, but will give you a feel for FPV flying and you can do it in the comfort of your own home:

Makerfire Whoop

If you just want something a little bigger you can fly about your yard and use your phone with over wifi and maybe take some passable shots of your bbq party or whatever, then maybe something like this (lots of similar options around the price):

Holy Stone Wifi drone

Another option for a cheap small drone with a controller that has an fpv screen built-in and can fly indoors or outdoors, is a Hubsan X4. I actually started with one of these. The camera isn't great and its hard to actually fly FPV with it, but the thing is easy to fly LoS and goes like stink for such a little thing:

Hubsan x4

There is also a larger version of that Hubsan, but still in your budget, the h502s:

Hubsan H502s

Lastly, if you want to be able to take some actually half decent footage and are happy to throw some extra money on top of the gift card, you could do a lot worse than a Hubsan h501s:

Hubsan h501s

Although personally I think the advanced version with the upgrade controller is a better option, but does cost more. I have one of these and they are really quite capable drones:

Hubsan h501s pro

Anyhoo, hope some of that might be useful. Good luck and welcome to the hobby!

I highly suggest picking up something small and cheap that you can mess around with and learn the mechanics of multi flight while you figure everything else out. I personally like the Hubsan x4 and they also have one with a camera on it for a little extra. I should have started with the Hubsan (or other microquad) because I crashed my first build terribly which set me back several months of repair.

For your first bigger multi you could look into the Cinetanks if you're interested in zipping around (link is only to a frame, but they have suggested parts in the right sidebar). I've heard good things about the DJI Flamewheels.

What I've been doing as I get ready for my next multi is to look at the build logs section of the sub wiki. Gives me a good idea of what I'd like and what other people have done too. I also suggest checking the two forums on the sidebar (multi and rcg) The guys at Multirotor pretty much held my hand and walked me through my first build, which I'm really grateful for.

Good luck! And welcome. :D

Ok, so there are a lot of things I'd probably change :)

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Motors - SabotageRC Booty 2306-2300kV, they're cheaper and significantly higher quality than the DYS you're looking at (they are made by DYS, as well, but with much higher quality components and build quality)

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ESC - beware Racerstar. Some things they OEM and you get a good product for a good price, but others you get significant drops in quality. I would pay a few cents more apiece and get Spedix ES-20 Lite ESCs.

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VTX - the one you selected is decent, but your soldering skills need to be up to par, the wires come undone from the VTX extremely easily and are incredibly difficult to reattach. I would recommend a few dollars more to get an AKK VTX with either larger pads or a connector.

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VTX antennas - There are better ones out there. Lumenier Axii is one of the best and most durable (and significantly lighter), pagoda antennas being slightly better in some regards but more fragile.

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Radio - The Turnigy Evolution is about the same price now and is a better choice than the FS-i6. Still uses the Flysky AFHDS2A protocol, so it will work with the receiver you selected (and there are now others that are good, as well). If the phonebook style radio appeals to you, then the i6 is the only cheap choice, but keep in mind it is a CHEAP radio, not an inexpensive one.

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Wire - I would suggest ordering some 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 gauge wire from Hobbyking (as much as they suck, they're the only place that sells lengths of wire inexpensively). Getting 1m of each wire in both black and red should only be 10-15 bucks IIRC.

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Power supply for charger - get a supply that is at least 19v and 200 watts, like this: https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-LRS-200-24-211-2W-Switchable/dp/B00YMA7I7C/ it is a few dollars more, but you can also run your charger at its full output, which will come in handy for charging your batteries in a timely fashion.

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Soldering iron - get a quality one, you're going to need it. https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/

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You should also get some no-clean flux: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-milliliters-Pneumatic-Dispensing/dp/B00425FUW2/

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Decent solder: https://www.amazon.com/MAIYUM-63-37-solder-electrical-soldering/dp/B076QF1Y85/

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And a tip cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Wire-type-soldering-cleaner/dp/B00FZPGDLA/

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That should get you well on your way - still on a budget, but you'll hate yourself WAY less when you go to build it and have decent equipment. :)

A good quality soldering iron will ensure that you can get the solder hot enough to make good joints. A soldering iron that does 40 watts is recommended. I started out with a Weller WLC-100, ($40) but am now using an 898D ($70-100) soldering / rework station which uses the Hakko tips (much cheaper than weller tips). The Weller worked pretty well, but the 898D can get hotter and has a digital temperature control. I use a small needle tip, but some people prefer a bit larger tip because you can get better heat transfer.

Use 60/40 rosin core solder, which works great for electronics and RC, and flows very well. You may also want to get some solder paste (flux) which will also help flow the solder and go where you want it to. Usually a solder diameter around .03 inch is good. I use this solder from Radioshack.

Seems like everyone is assuming he wants a kit and to build it himself, but I don't see that you said that. So, is that the case?

Will this be his first multicopter? If so, I would recommend something that is ready to fly (RTF) right out of the box. There are lots of good options, but I really enjoy my Hubsan x4 simply because how easy it is to get replacement parts. The price and reliability are nice as well ;)

You can put him together a nice "kit" with a hard case, spare parts, extra batteries for about $175 $135 on Amazon. It will be RTF, but also give him room to learn about the platform and repair mistakes.

EDIT: Actually a little cheaper... if he has not flow before, this is a fun, cheap christmas present.

Complete Starter Kit for Hubsan x4 | ------------
---|---
Hubsan H107C | $54.00 |
Carrying Case | $24.99 |
Crash Kit | $17.50 |
5 Extra Batteries | $18.39 |
Battery Charger | $6.36 |
Prop Guard | $2.73 |
------------|------------
Total | $123.97

The power leads, assuming you mean from the battery, do take a bit more but that seems like way too long.

if you don't, you need something with adjustable temp...
I've reached the end of the life of the tip for this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01712N5C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But i'm just going to try and find a compatible tip and keep using it, the iron works "well enough"... Obviously the $100 stations are going to be better.

The real secrets are

• Get tip tinner or w/e it's called. Absolute, 100%, required. I thought my tip was broken or something because it'd oxydize in about 2 seconds after cleaning with a sponge... Yea stick it in this and clean it on the next tip, and it'd stay shiny and nice for minutes... big improvement over wiping on a sponge every 5 seconds
  
• Use the gentle brass cleaning instead of or in addition to a sponge. It does wear the tip down, especially with these cheapo tips, but between this and the tinner i would clean my tip once or twice per solder instead of MULTIPLE times PER solder.
  
  Those two things, + use 350 - 400 C, and soldering is almost fun now!

No worries! I actually have the Syma x1, the Hubsan x4, and the Nano QX so I've had plenty of first hand experience on all 3 of the super popular ones.

The specific Syma x1 I have is this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00906PKQ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its the cheapest of the 3 and has the longest flight time. However this means it has the longest charge time (about 90 minutes for around 20+ minutes of flight)

The Nano will fly for around 10+ minutes and charges in around 35 minutes.

The Hubsan takes around 45 minutes to charge and flies for about 6~7 minutes depending on if you have the guard attached.

Of the 3 the Syma is the easiest to fly, and the best for a total beginner to learn on. However the Syma does not have blade guards, but the blades themselves are very sturdy (in about 50 flights and many crashes from various heights onto various surfaces I have yet to break a single propeller)

The Nano is my favorite hands down, best bang for your buck if you can afford the $70~100 price range. However due to its incredible agility it would be rather hard to learn on and would crash a lot. I've had all 3 for months and I still can't fly the Nano in agility mode indoors. Seriously, that sucker can move. The Hubsan is kinda a happy medium between the Syma and Nano in nearly every aspect. Personally its my least favorite of the 3, but it is still a very solid beginner copter. The Hubsan isn't bad by any means, its just that the other two are better in my opinion. The Hubsan is the heaviest of the 3 despite it being the smallest. Also the Hubsan has the shortest flight time, but a longer charge time than the Nano.

Also, very important - if you get a Hubsan DO NOT GET THE CAMERA upgraded version. The camera is really bad, it doesn't come with a micro SD card, any video playback will include the lovely sound of the motors (they are very loud in flight) as performed by the world's worst microphone at max volume, and the camera is always on (even with no card inserted) so it drains the battery faster than the non camera version. (not to mention the added weight)

If I had some spare cash I would definitely buy a second Nano, they are that awesome once you know how to fly. I would also probably buy another Syma because the quality for the cost is fantastic. Honestly I would buy a second Syma x1 instead of an extra battery for the first one. Its like $10~15 for an extra battery kit, I personally would rather just have 2 copters for 30 bucks instead of just one with an extra battery. (you can cannibalize one if the other breaks, plus that gives you 2 chargers, 2 controllers, 2 batteries, and a total of 16 propellers to use. Not to mention a total of 8 motors and 2 flight boards) So if you plan on crashing a lot just spring for a second one instead of a repair kit.

I know everything I said about the Hubsan seems negative, but its still a very good starter copter at a very reasonable price. Having used one as much as I have, I would absolutely buy it again (minus the damn camera) if I ever had a reason to. That being said I should warn you, my Hubsan - and possibly all Hubsans, are out for blood and are face seeking. I've gotten some fairly bad cuts and bruises from mine. Do yourself a favor and just keep away from the flip button until you have either a lot of room / experience, or some sort of bullet proof shield to hide behind.

If you have any other questions about copters or learning to fly I would be more than happy to try and answer them. I know that finding specific information about this stuff can be kinda hard or confusing at times.

Here are links to the other two quads I talked about:

Hubsan x4 - http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_t_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=197PJ9NDQ5JDVB73REBF

Nano QX - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CYHZN8G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I realize this probably isn't revolutionary, but worth sharing for those that hadn't seen it.

I love my little Hubsan X4 for bashing around in the house at night or when my girls want me to 'fly the super helicopter'. My other quad is a Vortex 250 Pro, so its not reasonable to practice FPV inside, and between works and kids my time is limited.

So, I :

• bought a Spektrum FPV Ultra Mini Camera, and about 5 grams of mass.
  
• removed the bottom case of the X4
  
• removed the Hubsan's stock video recording camera (about 3.5g saved)...
  
• soldered the power lead for the camera to the pads that provided power to the recording camera
  
• carefully put it back together and double sided taped the camera to the top of the quad.
  
  Overall +~1.5g
  
  Its pretty fun, hasn't broken over the last few batteries and crashes, and seems like it might be some reasonable practice.
  
  Certainly the camera has a battery impact - went from about 7 minutes to about 4 - but I have lots of spare batteries.
  
  Just a thought for others in the same scenario.
  

Well that mostly depends on budget. I got this Eachine Wizard x220 a few days ago, but I got the bind & fly version since I already have a radio. This thing is GREAT, my main quad I built about a month ago needs to be tuned and I didn't have time to today so I flew this instead for all of my flights and it is SHARP. The RTF version (the one I linked) comes with everything you need to fly but you'd also need goggles like FatSharks if you're willing to spend a lot on goggles or Eachine VR007's if you want something cheaper to start out on FPV with. I started with the Eachine's and they work fine, but after awhile the size will start to get annoying with no DVR and some other bells and whistles FatSharks have (I just got FatSharks a couple days ago and they're great!). And of course you would need a camera. The first GoPro session does 1080p60fps and it's only $200 so you'd be under $500. I'm not 100% sure this comes with a battery too though so you'd want a few extra 4S 1300mAh batteries and a charger for them (lot's of different options here so these are the batteries I use and here is the charger I use ). Just make sure you get batteries with an "XT60" connector and your charger has an XT60 charging cable. Here's a great video made by a fellow r/Multicopter user on how to safely charge LiPo batteries. They are no joke!

Anyway this is a GREAT quad to start with, the only downside to it IMO is that it uses the "FlySky" radio transmitter and receiver which is not that great. I started out with a different version of the one this has and my first quad lost signal and smashed face first into concrete from over 50 feet up. Luckily most components on these are tough as nails so it's a cheap fix, I just had to replace a GoPro lens (GET LENS PROTECTORS!) and a couple small parts. Anyway, I believe the radio in this one is a newer version that has had way less problems than mine, so if you get it maybe just range test low and over grass or something before going crazy?

If you want to watch a review of this quad, here's a great review made by u/uavfutures (same guy that did the LiPo video), who convinced me to buy it and I wasn't disappointed.

One more thing...have you ever flown a quad before or flown FPV? If not you may want to pick up a Blade Inductrix FPV and some goggles to get the basic idea down before you spend money on something you don't know how to fly. If you have any more questions let me know!

• Save yourself a few bucks and get the Hakko / Snip Combo.
  
• I beat the shit out of my 10 yr old radio shack fire starter, and now i LOVE my Hakko. To be prepared I found this video on how to take care of tips. I've been doing this guys method from the start and HOLY BALLS my tip is still in good condition after several months of use. I even bought extra tips from HK thinking i was going to need them. LOL.. maybe down the road or precision soldering.
  
• I know you said you have hex drivers, but i picked up this set due to my original hex set stripping. The Titanium apparently keeps from stripping.. have yet to strip them, so we'll see. Also good to have something at the bench, and an on the go set for the field. I actually have a multi-tool from HK for the field.. it's not titanium but it works.
  
• I also have a multi-tool ratcheting hex nut driver for my props.
  
• zip ties
  
• blue lock tight for motors
  
• personally i have yet to use or need a heat gun, if it's for shrinking heat shrink i simply use a lighter.
  
• little baggies for small parts. I label mine where these parts came from but not necessary.. e.g. Cobra motors, Naze32, Strix frame, etc.
  
• i picked up a cheap helping hands from Harbor Freight for like $3.. it comes in handy.
  
• Lipo Checker.. i personally got a Hyperion EOS Sentry 3 for $11.
  
• XT60 male/female connectors
  
• 12/14/18/20/22/26 AWG wire..
  
• Car bulb for smoke stopper.. this should be the FIRST thing you build.. it's saved me sooooo many times.
  
• electrical tape.. lots and lots of electrical tape.
  
• double sided tape.. foamed/padded
  
  probably more.. but all i can think of right now..
  
  
  

Assuming you saw one on the set for some film stuff, I assume you're interested in a more AP-style rig like a DJI product. Most of the people here are more interested in a DIY "racing/freestyle" FPV miniquad, a smaller, mostly carbon fibre build that's intended to be fast, responsive, and an immersive flying experience. So, your first decision is whether you're after a more casual photography rig or a quicker, racing quad.

In either case, most of the other comments seem to say "buy something small and cheap and start learning", and I'll second that advice. Most of us here fly "FPV", wearing goggles that show us what a small camera on board broadcast. Before you can do that though, you need to learn the basics of flight, ideally "line of sight", without the goggles.

The Hubsan gets recommended a lot (H107L) because it was one of the best, cheap quads out there. They're $32 on Amazon and are a good starting point. Make sure to grab some extra propellers and a couple more batteries, flight time is about 5 minute of casual hovering.

For a little less though, I cannot recommend the Eachine H8 Mini enough. It's smaller, a little more responsive, and just as durable. Once you're more familiar with the basics of flight, too, you can try out "rate" (manual, no auto-leveling) mode with this one too for about $10 and some time flashing firmware.

From there, once you get used to the basics of control, you can start adding in cameras and goggles and practicing FPV. Eventually, you can work your way up to a larger miniquad.

And always feel free to ask more questions if you have them!

</rant>

>I was wondering could I do the bigger battery but use velcro tape instead?

I don't know the 818 specifically, but as long as the wires and battery don't get in the way of the props, it should be fine. Be aware that bigger batteries weigh more, so you'll start to see diminishing returns as the extra capacity starts to overtake the power-to-weight ratio. (For the same reason, be careful not to overdo it with that velcro tape. If you don't have this stuff, get it. Best cable tie there is, you can cut it to length, it's light as a feather, and it's strong enough to hold a battery that weighs more than your quad does.)

I second what /u/shamus727 said, the more batteries you have, the better, but I know how to spell "batteries" so you can trust me. Also, spare props would not go amiss, they're generally pretty cheap, and even with those prop guards you'll probably lose a prop here and there.

Some tips I learned the hard way:

• Don't get a GoPro mount just yet. Chances are you probably won't even use it until you're a much better pilot, and it will just add unnecessary weight when you're not using it.
  
• Get an F3 based flight controller (SP Racing F3 or similar) instead of an F1 (Naze32). If you're anything like me, you're going to try to get the most out of your quad and use all of the fancy technologies available to you (like an on screen display, or using SBUS and telemetry with your receiver, or LEDs, or whatever). When you go to add stuff on, though, you have to work with hardware serial ports, or UARTs; the Naze32 has 2 UARTs while F3 FCs have 3 available. Having that extra UART available will make a lot of things a lot easier, and the increased processing power on the F3 should allow you to use more software serial ports than on the Naze (meaning you can use more stuff simultaneously).
  
• When assembling your quad, make sure you put your screws through the plates facing downwards with the nuts on the ground. It's a lot easier to use a socket wrench to tighten stuff than a hex wrench.
  
• If you're building a 250 quad first, use 220X motors instead of 180X motors. The 220X motors are bigger and produce more thrust than the 180X motors, which will improve your flying characteristics. Just make sure that the frame you choose can accommodate them; if you're starting out with a tried and true ZMR250, make sure you get the version with M3-sized arms.
  
• Make sure, among other things, you have the following equipment:
  
  
  • Soldering iron with a fine tip (these are replaceable, so if you already have an iron you can just get the tips). One with adjustable temperature helps a lot.
    
  • Solder
    
  • Soldering flux (I recommend a flux pen; you can get these from Amazon)
    
  • Desoldering wick
    
  • Solder tip cleaning wire
    
  • Soldering iron holder
    
  • Multimeter (useful for testing stuff). Make sure to also get a battery for it.
    
    
• If you're planning on using LEDs, get addressable LED strips (WS2812 or equivalent). Since my ZMR uses nonaddressable strips, I have switches on the strips, which tend to get damaged in rough landings.
  
• Get a spare motor in each direction and a spare ESC. You don't know when you'll break something, but when you do, you'll have a spare you can quickly switch out.
  
• Heatshrink looks better than electrical tape.
  
• Zip ties are your friend.

Yeah it's a pretty common cheap tx for beginners. I can't find any mode 2 tx on Amazon. I think this one is a mode 2 so should work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cpaSBbFCTAAFP


And here's the cable you need for use with simulators or any game.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAETLVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XuaSBbYTBB400


Or if you want a better Tx that's 'futureproof' consider paying more and getting a Taranis Qx7. It's about 100 bucks and both the hardware and firmware are better in quality and there is gobs and gobs of support online as it's one of the most used TX in the whole RC hobby. Plus there's no extra adapter cable needed to use with Sims. Any micro USB cable, plug it in to your PC and it's auto recognized by most Sims.

https://alofthobbies.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fMaSBb5CRX90A

Thanks for your interest!

• The controller doesn't seem to have any outputs. You may be getting the H107C confused with the H107D (the FPV version). This version just has a small recording camera that has a button on it.
  
  
• Sure!
  
  
• The quadcopter was $60, the FPV pod was $100, and the Picnic quads frame (I think it was the Platform X^3/100/8.5mm) was $10.
  
  
• It still flies great! I weighed everything but the electronics from the stock X4, (15 grams) and then weighed the new frame and FPV pod (11 grams!). With a new bit of wire spliced in, the battery tray, and some tape, it weighs about the same. Woohoo!
  
  I'm hoping to sometime get another pair of goggles and a Blade QX FPV (I already have the normal Nano QX and I love it).

I'm not sure if there's a consumer grade quad out there that will be able to do that. Your best chance to keep things cheap (low cost, not low quality) and efficient is a custom build. From the components I have off the top of my head, I'm fairly sure you can do it for $1000 (with FPV equipment, including receiver , except for the screen/goggles). With some careful thought and a little optimizing, you could probably get it down. What's going to end up costing the most will be the high efficiency motors, and the high power batteries.

If you want to start flying quads, here's the same advice you'd get anywhere else on this subreddit, put down about $50 on a Hubsan X4. It'll take the crashes while you're learning so a more expensive quad doesn't have to. It's pretty durable so you won't have to worry about breaking it either.

Sorry, Tx means trasmitter (IE your "remote control"). Rx means receiver. Your Tx transmits the inputs from your sticks and the Rx on the quad picks up on that to control it. Tx's and Rx's communicate on special protocols, but most of the higher end Tx's use modules so one Tx can be used with different protocols. For instance the Blade uses the DSM protocol (AKA spektrum as well) and will require you to have a DSM compatible Tx (or Tx module) to control it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WQVJ6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00N3WQXIK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0HF6P2RBVKSVWJWNS71K

there is the spektrum available on amazon from a Prime seller for 100$

http://www.surveilzone.com/16CH-0008lux-58G-Wireless-Mini-Camera-with-Audio-90-degree--g-1304

here is virtually the same setup for 50$ cheaper. I have no personal experience with the second camera, but as far as I can tell it is pretty much the exact same thing. Surveilzone also gets used quite frequently here for FPV cams, so it might be worth checking into if you want to save some cash!

Please note these micro cameras are only 25 mw which means range is limited to 100 meters at best and they really suffer in low light conditions. Image quality is not amazing, but it works quite well, don't expect HD quality viewing with them though!

Well, for one thing he's got motors rated for 2s batteries, and a 3s battery. ;-)

I'd grab some of these motors. You can use the rest if you like, but you might have an easier time starting with a more modern flight controller from around $16 to $22 or so.

For frame, I'd try something like this:
http://www.banggood.com/Realacc-X210-210mm-3mm4mm-Carbon-Fiber-FPV-Racing-Frame-w-5V-12V-PDB-p-1069204.html

You can get a cheap ZMR, but you'll probably want a PDB and end up not saving much, and won't be quite as nice a result.

Edit: ZMRs do have more room to work on though, which is nice for your first build. Could also get an ls-210 or crazypony pretty cheap and have more working room in a more modern frame. Your ESCs already have BECs and you're not planning on FPV, so you can get away with a $1 passive PDB or go for something fancier just for the buzzer and low voltage alarm you'll probably want anyway.

I appreciate the effort. This seems promising and may be the better idea, the other route I was going to take was the Bardwell kit with some other stuff.

https://store.rotorriot.com/bardwells-budget-build-kit/

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-series-1300mah-4s-100c-fpv-lipo-battery

https://www.amazon.com/usmile-receiver-Support-FS-iT4S-Evolution/dp/B07FMFG6Q3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1542217789&sr=1-1&keywords=fli14

https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8

https://www.getfpv.com/new-arrivals/ev-peak-e3-falcore-edition-35w-3a-lipo-battery-balance-charger.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4571Q6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=fpvknowitall-web-20&linkId=6769f39dd3014cb5619db31a54b18438

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-quad-solder-38-62-0-8mm-100g

https://www.amazon.com/DOWELL-Stripper-Multi-Function-Tool%EF%BC%8CProfessional-Craftsmanship/dp/B06X9875Z7/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542221619&sr=1-4&keywords=wire+stripper+and+cutter

https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Titanium-Nitride-Driver-Wrench/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1488911480&sr=8-3&keywords=hex+driver&linkCode=sl1&tag=dre-youtube-20&linkId=d53d845db871ab90fe110b2918f60a7e

$381 no shipping/tax and the build kit comes with accessory kit including motor screws for CL1 5mm thick arms, double-sided tape, FC stack mounting screws, XT60 power lead, zip ties, and heat shrink.

​

Your idea seems like it may be "too little" for the project but I am honestly ok with that because I rather get something done then bite off something too big to chew and end up having to figure something out last second and it being a piece of crap.

​

So does that flight controller stick right into those frames and then you screw them in or something? You say I only need to solder the the power wires to the camera, where do the motors go? I probably sound like an idiot but I'm not really an electrician or carpenter, I don't build things, other then computers :P. I need to head off now so I can't do so much research right now and I spent all day researching today.. won't have much time tomorrow, we are going to tour a college. Can you recommend a good video that would go along with this build? Tomorrow, I am going to ask the teacher if the TV in the room I am presenting in has analog input, if not we go from there. We have access to a 3D printer but a lot of people are going to be using it most likely and I think its slow but I can definitely get the camera mount printed. Once again, appreciate the effort.

I recently bought myself a Flysky FS i6X transmitter for about $50 and this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAETLVY?ref%5F=oh%5Faui%5Fdetailpage%5Fo02%5Fs00&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1
Plugged it into my Mac last night (just got the transmitter yesterday) and it works perfectly with both FPVFreerider and Liftoff. Maybe ask him if he would be interested in that. Tell him you will get him that stuff (and maybe a HubsanX4 to fly for real) and when he gets good with the sim, you can get him a better higher end quad. Once I get good with the sim, I'm going to get this: http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Wizard-X220-FPV-Racing-Drone-Blheli_S-F3-6DOF-2205-2300KV-Motors-5_8G-48CH-200MW-VTX-ARF-p-1085802.html?rmmds=search with some goggles. I've always wanted to do FPV and then get an action cam to attach to it so I can record video. I'm personally not really into "racing" quads around, I just want to fly and take cool video.

You're spot on for the propeller measurements. One thing to keep in mind is almost everyone runs 5" props, so you'll have a lot more options if you build based around that. The only benefit you can find from 6" is if are intentionally trying to do efficient flying for more time, otherwise you won't really see much of a difference.
The additional benefit of smaller props is that you can go a bit smaller on your build, which means less force across the frame when you land and less breaking. I find that 4mm arms are the sweet spot for durability, 3mm is just a little bit low for anything above 150mm. Removable arms are even better while learning, so you don't have to replace the entire frame if one breaks.

I have normal Prime, but not sure if the stuff that shows as Prime eligible for me is the same as the one-day eligible stuff for you. That being said, if I had to build a drone from Amazon right now, I'd go with:

Frame 1 or 2 (actually have this one from a previous build)
ESCs (I prefer separate ESCs rather than 4-in-1 or all-in-1 in case anything breaks)
Flight controller
PDB
Props 1 or 2 depending on what your motors can handle, should be able to do either based on that kv and measurement
Receiver (assuming you get the QX7)
Video transmitter
Camera
Batteries
Charger
Balance board for charging multiple batteries

Left out motors since it sounds like you have some in mind. This kind of build will have plenty of power, probably hover at around 30% throttle if I had to guess, so just keep that in mind. You can tone it down manually by getting some less aggressive propellers, in the flight controller max throttle, or on your transmitter max throttle, but I recommend just getting used to it. Also mess around in simulators, there weren't any when I started out and I would have probably saved a few hundred in parts if they were (though parts back then were like 8x the cost they are today).

I got this cheap temp control soldering iron. Its pretty nice. It comes with a few tip sizes and they are all pre tinned. It has a dial on it for temp control but its really only a wattage control that gives you an approximation of temps. But its better then not having a dial. Its not as good as something like one of those 90 dollar hakko stations but this would make a great portable iron with a DC to AC car adapter inverter.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4

This is just my opinion but I would recommend buying the [husband X4] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZC6C8E/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IZC6C8E&linkCode=as2&tag=phreakenterp-20&linkId=OQXRQ5RIBJ3C2N3U)

It's cheap and easy to learn on. But on whether to build or not. Building is:

• cheaper for the same product
  
  
• more customizable
  
  
• easier to fix when you break something
  
  
• More work to setup
  
  
• Can require technical knowledge (this subreddit can help you learn)
  
  Just my 2 cents.

This was my first iron, though under a different branding. It's only $16, and it has a knob you can spin that at least loosely correlates w/ the iron's temperature.

I wouldn't recommend it, though. I splurged for a Hakko FX-888D a couple of months later and haven't regretted it once. It truly is a night-and-day difference. Working with my old iron was like pulling teeth. Working with the Hakko is effortless.

I'd definitely recommend an upgrade. If you're un(willing|able) to spend $100+ on a soldering iron, I'd recommend still getting the first one I linked, along with some Hakko tips. Hakko tips are about 10-20x as expensive as their no-name counterparts, and you absolutely get what you pay for.

Easily the most frustrating part of using my first iron was how quickly the tips would oxidize, even though I kept them tinned religiously. Hakko tips, when cared for, will last indefinitely. I wouldn't be surprised if nice tips + cheap (but temperature controlled) iron got you 70% of the performance of the all-Hakko kit.

Im sure its fine, but its super overpriced. Effectively looks like a syma x1 with a fancy, heavy frame over it.

Get the syma x1 for $35 or the hubsan x4: http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/

Have you checked out banggood.com? A lot of quadcopter stuff there, pretty cheap too!

As for the motors, I've only used the Emax RS2205 2300kv. It's widely used by the community. As far as durability goes, RS2205 motors are incredibly durable.

For the frame, people started shifting towards 220's and lower. I would recommend a QAV210 clone or the QAV-R 220 clone. You can purchase spare parts off of GetFPV. Also, I agree with the unibody frames. If you break them, you'll have to replace the whole frame. That's why I went with the QAV-R. It hasn't broken on me yet!

If you're not doing racing, then a Naze32 Rev6 with strongly tuned PIDs should do the trick.

Littlebee 20a will do fine. You may want to upgrade to 30a if you plan on using 4S w/ triblade props.

As for the C rating, this video should explain it better than I do!

I have an older Weller that I got used, this model: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1520878668&sr=1-5&keywords=weller+soldering+iron
It's a little pricey for what it is buying new, but it's really quality. I've soldered many thousands of components large and small with it. Looks like Weller has some newer models that are about the same price and probably more feature-full/powerful.

I can recommend getting a brass sponge instead of the ones you wet, it's cleaner and less hassle. I also use a solder-sucker and solder-wick-braid regularly. I also use a pair of "helping hands" with a magnifying glass, a DIY fume-extractor (PC fan with some activated charcoal filter behind it), and a small vise for holding circuit boards and such. That's just about the entirety of the things I use for general electronics mucking-with.

Sorry for the late reply. First of all, take all of this with a grain of salt. This is my first build, so I am by no means an expert. You should definitely look in to all this on your own rather than blindly trust my purchases.
Here are the tools I got in my Amazon order:

• Wire Stripper
  
• No Clean Flux Paste
  
• XT60 Connectors
  
• 60/40 Rosin Core Solder
  
• Loctite Threadlocker 242 (blue)
  
• Weller 40 Watt soldering station
  
• Solder tip cleaner
  
• Helping hand with LED
  
• Bullet connectors
  
• Liquid electrical tape
  
• Heatshrink variety pack
  
• Chisel tip for soldering iron
  
• Servo cables
  
• 12/14/16 AWG silicone wire
  
• Zip ties
  
  I hope this helps.
  
  

Hey, I purchased a Taranis X9D today with the intent of buying a micro as my first decent quad (I've trashed a few cheap ones learning how to fly). Once the radio arrives I plan on practicing with a sim while the (unpurchased yet) quad is in the mail.

I realise it's expensive, but the MOSKITO 70 is the frontrunner on my my micro shopping list right now. If my understanding is correct, the brushed motors on the three linked quads will wear out after a while, unlike the MOSKITO, correct?

On the Multicopter sidebar, the sidebars Batteries and Charging has some great info, however I'm still a little unclear on:

1. The difference between batteries. Looking at banggoods "1s lipo battery" page, there are all manner of mAh ratings for each battery. Can any of these be used on the micro quads listed above? Is a higher C-Rating always better?
   
2. A 1S battery doesn't have multiple cells to be balanced, so the recommended Hitec RCD 44212 X4 is a simple buy. But if I were to move onto 2S or greater, would I need to choose between a Balance Charger or a Parallel Charger?

Do you know how to fly yet? Before I even began to figure out how to build a full size multicopter, I started with this Syma X1 -> http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4G-Quad-Copter/dp/B00906PKQ4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372570534&sr=8-2&keywords=syma+x1
Even if you know you're going to build one, if you've never flown one, order that first.

After that, I would look at a kit. People love to poopoo the stock DJI motors and ESCs that come with the 'DJI F450 Flamewheel ARF kit', but the point is, you know that when you put all of it together, add in a flight controller, ubec, and rx; that the damn thing is going to fly. Hard to beat that small amount of security! http://www.ebay.com/itm/DJI-FLAME-WHEEL-F450-ARF-KIT-INCLUDES-MOTORS-ESC-PROPELLERS-/130882504206?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item1e7934860e

If you have followed my instructions so far, you can use this video to assemble the above kit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUTHIL_Xfcc

Then all that's left is a flight controller (Hobby King kk2.0 or a MultiWii are both high quality and cheap!), batteries, battery charger, connecters, servo cables, transmitter/receiver, and a sunny day!

Good luck! I've had a few tonight, so gimme slack if I missed something!

Thanks for the reply!

Yes, I have ER9x flashed and this is the USB adapter I have been trying to use.

I'm having a similar problem, I think. It just doesn't register at all. Nothing installs or pops up when I plug it in and no controllers show up in Windows or simulator settings. The Tx does, however, power up when I plug it in.

Any ideas? Did you have to remove the module for yours to work?

I'd prefer to use the USB adapter over 3.5mm connection. But at this point I'll take anything that works. haha So I'd appreciate any tips you might have. Thanks!

Around $100 would be a good start. I bought this one. But there is it's non-digital brother. It holds temp very well, (dial it right in with the digital display) even when soldering large battery connectors. Changes temps very quickly. It does everything I use it for. This hobby, fixing TVs, stereos and other electronics. Not quite a production station but it would hold up well in small runs.

Do get an assortment of tips. There are many types, pin point, various width flat heads, etc. What you need will depend on what you are soldering.

Than just take care of the tips. Always clean and tin them when done.

There are many brands out there. Weller has been around for a long time. This station just works for me.

I know it's a cultural difference, but I think exchanging a gift for a different one if it gets more use makes way more sense. You would most likely have way more fun with a micro FPV quad like the Hubsan H107D for example.

Hah, it does sound like it :)

I just know how much kids love these things, and how easy they are to break.

EDIT: err, I mean - http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410873331&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+x4

I have this Weller WES51 and its been just great for me. not sure what could be better on a more expensive setup. Maybe more accurate temps or faster warm up? This seems completely capable for what im doing with it though.

I just use a lighter for all my heat shrinking. Is a heat gun much better than a simple lighter?

wow, that's a great answer. A lot of good, helpful info.

what is your criticism of the Hubsan-H107D-FPV?

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107D-FPV-Mini-Quadcopter/dp/B00GSNWB5K/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1426292589&sr=1-3

You are building a flying machine. In order to build a flying machine, you need to start with good tools.

1. Get some decent rosin-core solder. Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 0.80mm is good and has a low melting temperature, which makes it easier to work with.
   
2. Get a decent soldering iron. I recommend the Weller WES51 or Weller WESD51 and Weller ETO tips for small jobs like signal wires, and the Weller ETA tip (included with the iron) for XT60s and ESC wires. No, it isn't cheap, but yes, it will last you 20 years.
   
3. Get some tweezers. I like the Hakko CHP 00D-SA.
   
4. Get some wire strippers. I like the TEKTON 3794.
   
   Soldering is an important part of building a flying machine. You need to learn to solder:
   
   
5. Strip your wires to the length of the pad you're going to solder them to.
   
6. Your iron should be at 700°-750°, depending on the solder (63/37 has a lower melting point than 60/40).
   
7. Before doing anything with your iron, Clean the tip of the iron on a wet sponge, then tin the tip of the iron by applying a small amount of solder
   
8. Tin pads by applying a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron, applying the tip of the iron to the pad, then applying solder between the tip of the iron and the pad until the pad is completely covered in solder.
   
9. Tin wires by applying a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron, applying the tip of the iron to the base of the exposed wire, then adding solder as you move the tip of the iron to the tip of the exposed wire.
   
10. Tin the iron, grab the tinned wire with your tweezers, place it above the tinned pad, press the wire into the pad using the tip of the iron, hold for 2 seconds, remove the iron, hold for 2 seconds.
    
    You are building a flying machine, do it right.

This was the first kit I built. I liked it a lot, unfortunately I lost it (long story).

Any well-built 250 should easily carry a GoPro and FPV gear, especially running on 4S. I've tried a few different frames, the one I'm flying now is a ZMR clone from Amazon. I've crashed it pretty hard and it seems to be holding up well. I'd say it's a pretty good frame to start.

In terms of motors and ESCs (which you can always upgrade independently of everything else), the choice is either 1806 or 2204. I'd say buy any set of decent motors / ESCs that you can find cheap. The EMAX 2204 / 12A ESC combo in the kit linked above is a good start.

In terms of FC, the Naze32 is the most popular these days. The FPV camera of choice seems to be the PZ0420M (infrared filtered version). I've tried a few transmitters and my favorite so far is the Hawkeye 200mw because of the pigtail that makes it harder to damage in a crash.

I'd say what matters the most is not the kit but the learning process that comes from building / flying / crashing / fixing. Pick one and get started, once you've done it for a bit the choices become much easier.

Yea, I realized I needed something small to get good at the controls. I came across the Syma X1 which looks like it has pretty good reviews and is cheap...

Has he ever flown anything?

If not then the stock answer is to go with one of the "toy" quads. They are fairly inexpensive, very durable, and replacement parts are plentiful and cheap for the inevitable crashes. Once he gets the hang of that, then he can move up to something that's more powerful, and expensive.

Don't be fooled by the size, these are still fairly tough to get the hang of flying, and are really great fun. Most can be flown indoors as well.

The Hubsan H107 gets recommended quite a bit (I own one, and it's been great).

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107-L_M2-The-X4-H107L/dp/B00CP5NSGG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-2&keywords=quadcopter

With that you'd want to get both the prop guard, and the crash kit.

The Syma X1 gets a lot of recommendations as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4G-Quad-Copter/dp/B0096SJU3U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-5&keywords=quadcopter

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4G-Quad-Copter/dp/B00906PKQ4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-8&keywords=quadcopter

And there's the Estes Proto X (I don't see many recommendations for this, but have seen it mentioned in other places quite a bit):

http://www.amazon.com/Estes-Proto-Quadcopter-Colors-Black/dp/B00G924W98/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-6&keywords=quadcopter

I'm sure there are more that I'm missing, but I'm sure others will chime in.

From everything I've read here, the Hubsan X4 series are great. There are new ones coming out at some point in the future, however the current versions are great, and cheap as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E

If you are willing to drop a little bit of coin, but don't want to go too crazy this guy is pretty popular: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=33Z9SEU0RU74U&coliid=I177ELVX243CET

For starting out, and into the foreseeable future, one like this would probably server you just fine: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NKUS-Watt-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG7F0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421030141&sr=1-2&keywords=weller+soldering+iron

Your best bet is it start with something like this then when you get comfortable flying, you can build a FPV 250 for ~ $600-$1000.

Just to be sure because i live in germany.
Do these look like the right parts?

https://www.amazon.de/Hubsan-H107L-Radiosteuerung-Quadrocopter-Spielzeug/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465071284&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+x4

https://www.amazon.de/Hubsan-Quadcopter-Flugzeug-Helikopter-8-5x20mm/dp/B00TIDNBEC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465071245&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=Tera+4+Pcs+Quadcopter+Spare+Parts+3.7V+Motor+7x20mm+for+Hubsan+X4+H107L+Quadcopter

https://www.amazon.de/Haibei-Propeller-Rotorbl%C3%A4tter-Quadcopter-Ersatzteile/dp/B014PASS40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465071422&sr=8-1&keywords=walkera+ladybird+props

https://www.amazon.de/Keenstone-LiPo-Akku-4-Kanal-QuadCopter-Super-CP/dp/B01DK7N2OK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465071191&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=5pcs+Tenergy+3.7V+380mAh+LiPO+Battery+for+Hubsan
And thank you for the help.

I am not sure that receiver will work with the wizard but This one is what I use and it works great. I use This cable to connect to my pc and it is just plug and play.

Oh I see it has a trainer port but its not a 3.5mm cable like on spektrum the best way to hook it up would buy a cable for it something like this https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Universal-Flight-Simulator-Futaba/dp/B00DR4I4O0

Also a vid if u just want to solder up the cable yourself https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mF2BIekw2tw

These were $40 at Radio Shack. Get one from there or your local hobby shop, practice with it until you get good, then head back to your local hobby shop, walk up to the guy at the counter and say "I have $160 and I've been practicing with a Hubsan. What's a good model I can upgrade to?"

Win.

Syma X1 - $30

I just got this last week and have been flying it everyday with a Turnigy 9X. This is fantastic for a first quad and for learning how to fly. It handles light and medium wind pretty well and is indestructible. Buy a bunch of batteries if you decide to purchase it. I'm currently waiting on a whole bunch of batteries to come in from China.

One of my friends bought the Hubsan x4 and I got the Syma x1

I personally like the Syma more, it feels more controlled and easier to fly. Also was a few bucks cheaper. Ive been flying it for about a month now and have nothing bad to say about it

I love these little Hubsan X4’s. I always buy the version without a camera and without the “altitude hold/flight stabilization” horseshit. The basic plain Jane 4”quad. One of the X4’s with a half dozen batteries (always upgrade battery, don’t buy stock lipos they suuuck) and you’ll have an absolute blast for $40. Also great for night flight with the leds.

https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3FQP7KZKRDLF7&keywords=hubsan+x4&qid=1554822023&s=gateway&sprefix=hubsan&sr=8-3

I also recently got into the hobby and I use this Weller WLC100 it's got a small chisel tip but it's pretty good

Something like that should work in theory, but you should probably look for some reviews for what looks like really cheap Chinese electronics. I've got the Hitec x4 Micro, which is twice the price, but really nice.

http://www.amazon.com/X4-Micro-AC-LiPo-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM

Cheaper, maybe, but not by much with goggles.

Quads built yourself generally are ones you wouldn't want to be flying around inside the house as well.

If you just want to get in the air and have FPV going, you could consider a Hubsan X4 H107D:
http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107D-FPV-Mini-Quadcopter/dp/B00GSNWB5K

Or a Ladybird FPV: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2EE10T4994&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-RC+Toys-_-9SIA2EE10T4994&gclid=CLmzvLuU0cICFRBgfgodj40Avg&gclsrc=aw.ds

Both come ready to fly as well as a monitor for fpv on the transmitter

> walkera ladybird prop

Get these(amazon or banggood) and the frame that I linked.It will fly way,way better then with that poly frame that you have.Guaranteed!

Here is the female connecter needed for your board.Amazon/banggood also has the 380/400 mah,which I think is the best size for your build.

http://www.rc-drones.com/HubsanWalkera-Style-battery-Connector-MaleFemale_p_1049.html

http://www.amazon.com/Keenstone-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00S8VEH3E/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1462406040&sr=1-2&keywords=380+mah

http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1462406040&sr=1-4&keywords=380+mah

Ive been using this kit for the last year....

The cheap models actually work pretty well if you take care of the tip and use decent solder.
https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=pd_sbs_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CKT7F9WADDVDFTPZVZ9E

Those hubsan multi-chargers are hit and miss. Some are great, some aren't. It's nearly impossible to tell which brand is good or not. If you're willing to spend a some more money on a solid charger, get the Hitec X4 micro ac/dc charger.

This is what I have, and what many people in this sub will tell you to get.

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E

You would be safe also getting the crash pack:
http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107-Quadcopter-Crash-Pack/dp/B00D3LTTU0

Very small very fun and very easy to learn nn. I've had mine for over a year now and I still fly it every couple days.

Thank you! I spent 20 minutes earlier this evening trying to figure out which dongle to get for my new Turnigy (For $21 how can you not get one?! :) 9x on osx.

I can't wait to try it on aerofly and fpv free rider.

BTW, has anyone tried the copters on aerofly? Are the physics are pathetic? or is my setup?

Edit: This dongle is only available in the international warehouse w/ $20+ shipping. It appears this one on amazon has free shipping with reasonable estimates on timing http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Flight-Simulator-Cable-Futaba/dp/B00DR4I4O0/ for $10 USD

I use these cheap straps plus this stuff for grip. It has worked very well so far.

Try to build your micro in such a way that the straps are easy to replace. Also put some electric tape over any sharp edges on the carbon (or file the edges smooth if you aren't lazy) so the straps don't get cut as easily.

I've got a FlySky FS-i6X and this cable that I use with my Mac on FPV Freerider. Works perfectly fine, but at $60 for the transmitter (with X6B receiver) and another $10 for the cable I'd rather just get a Taranis Q X7. Yeah, it is another $35 from getfpv.com and doesn't come with the receiver, but it looks like a kick ass transmitter.

Otherwise, there is also the FS-i6 without receiver that currently costs $37 on banggood (which would also need that above mentioned cable), the Turnigy Evolution for around $77 and the FS-i6S which is around $60. The Turnigy Evolution and FS-i6S controllers have the same electronics, but drastically different design. The Evolution has a design quite like an XBox controller and has a decent following. Both of those are connectable with just a regular USB cable.

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

Your best bet like ichelo said is to get a micro brushed quad from this website or a Syma X1 from amazon.

Thanks for the answers!

Part 1:
After thinking about Hubsan x4 vs Syma x1 carefully and researching on google, I still decided to go with Hubsan X4, mainly because I will probably have to be flying indoors since it's going to start snowing here pretty soon. :(

1. http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E.
   
   I will also buy the propeller guard. What I am curious about is, seeing as the flight time is only a little over 5 minutes, what extra batteries should I get for it and what charger? Would these do?
   
   
2. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3GP1R2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A329XU3OEAWG5H
   
3. http://www.amazon.com/ThinkMax%C2%AE-In-Battery-Charger-Hubsan/dp/B00LGWQ4FG/ref=pd_bxgy_t_text_y
   
   Part2:
   Oh, that was my bad. A week or so ago, we were thinking about getting a hexacopter with a gopro and later upgrading it to be able to lift dslr devices, hence the second dslr gimbal. But seeing as gopro4 has some pretty good quality, we probably won't need to be lifting dslrs any time soon. Is the gimbal we get with f550 kit any good? Also, the f550 kit says we need to get a controler, but I have no idea which one.
   
   The FPV you recommended is this one, right?
   
   
4. https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__66474__Skyzone_Plug_N_Play_FPV_500_Set_With_TS58500_TX_RC832_RX_Sony_700CCD_and_C_P_Antennas.html
   
   We would probably need to get an aditional controler with LCD screen, right?

The Hubsan is more like ~$50 and the Syma is $30 off of amazon (With prime!)

Syma X1 4 Channel 2.4G RC Quad Copter - Spacecraft

A bit larger then the Hubsan. But probably easier to fly for it. I have had a #3 key camera on mine with a bigger battery and it still flew ok (they get a little sluggish with more weight)

Hubsan X4

Orrrr with a camera for $13 more here

This guy is a micro, but incredibly tough and a great starter/learner. Get extra props or the prop guards.

I would recommend wraith32 escs if you're going to spend that much money. They support a higher dshot and are rated for more amps.

https://www.fpvmodel.com/wraith32-32bit-35a-blheli_32-esc-dshot1200_g1271.html

You should get a Pagoda-2, it's designed to work with a case which protects the axial ratio of the antenna.

https://www.banggood.com/5_8-GHz-Pagoda-Omnidirectional-FPV-Flat-Panel-Antenna-LHCPRHCP-SMA-Male-p-1159835.html?rmmds=search

And lastly those batteries are good but they're cheaper on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-14-8V-Airplane/dp/B013I9T0T6

Is that worth the extra 80% price increase over something like this?

EDIT: Math...

Thanks! The build took me about 2 months from the time I started ordering parts, to the point at which I was able to get it airborne.

I'd be happy to share some tips and things I learned along the way.

First, the dude at FPV Flightclub has been a tremendous help to me along the way. His videos, blog posts, and online store all made my build possible. I promise I'm not an FPV Flightclub shill.

So yeah, I read his post on Buying your first drone, then watched his videos on How to Build an FPV Quadcopter and How to build a QAV250 The correct way. Watching those vids gave me an idea of what I was getting into, and helped me figure out how I wanted to plan my build.

I decided I wanted to follow the QAV250 build as closely as possible, but with some less expensive parts; namely the frame. I got a knock-off ZMR250 frame for $40 instead of the much more expensive QAV250 frame.

Miscellaneous Parts

Because I wanted to hide the ESCs and not put them on the frame arms, I bought a 3D printed frame spacer to go between the two bottom plates of the frame kit. I also used a small power distribution board, which helped clean up the wiring.

Buying the frame spacer meant I needed a bunch of screws that didn't come with the frame kit, namely M3x18mm button heads. Speaking of screws, you'll also need to get some M3x5mm motor screws.

Tips

• Be patient. I had to re-do a lot of stuff, sometimes more than twice.
  
  
  
  
  

Kockoff QAV 210 frame from Amazon. Cheap, light and fairly durable.

http://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Carbon-Quadcopter-QAV210-QAV250/dp/B016ZZN6IQ

Love my PZ0420M, it has the best picture ive found yet.

Littlebee or DYS ESCs should work fine (littlebees give more power, but DYSs are cheaper)

Can't go wrong with the Hitech X4. One of the best purchases I've made in the micros.

Weller is the tried and true irons a lot of people use. We had a decent one in an old shop I was a part of and it kept going for years, real nice solder joints.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC

This one from Amazon would get you started. its good to pay a little more for this one than one of the shits from Radioshack.

I bought these ones and they've worked out really well. They are slightly thicker than the OEM ones, but I haven't had a problem getting them in or out. I agree capacity-wise they generally don't provide much more flight time than OEM, but I've found I get significantly more time if I charge and then immediately use. Even charging in the morning for evening flying seems not quite as long. It's not just the aftermarket ones either.

may i recommend you and your friends pool 45 dollars and have the time of your lives with a hubsan x4 H107L

Depends, how much you wanna spend?

I have this one and I love it. https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473696178&sr=8-3&keywords=weller

I've only messed with low end stuff, but I love my hubsan X4.

I have the hd camera version, but there is a cheaper one without a camera and a more expensive one that sends back video.

Yep, the real thing packaged in a factory box. It does not come with a battery though. I recommend the tenergy 380's on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1421780800&sr=1&keywords=tenergy. Also spend $7 on a 4 port charger: http://www.amazon.com/ThinkMax%C2%AE-In-Battery-Charger-Hubsan/dp/B00LGWQ4FG/ref=pd_bxgy_t_img_y

Ah okay gotcha. Also I realized I can get tons of discarded circuit boards from work so those should be enough practice material for me. I was looking at an iron like this https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483622458&sr=8-4&keywords=soldering+iron . Looks like it would be okay and is 60W

Thanks for replying :) I was thinking / hoping for something a lot cheaper actually, but I've seen that product name tossed around before. Which one of these should I buy?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hitec-X4-Micro-Ac-Dc-1-Cell-Lipo-Charger-44212/351576886028?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D06b9f86079364a21be29e7518acc96d0%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D171987244306

or

http://www.amazon.com/Hitec-RCD-Micro-1-Cell-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM

Do you know if there any notable difference bwtween them?

Get this one. Weller is one of the best brands out there. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AS28UC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1420431837&sr=8-2&pi=SL75

Do you care if it has a camera?

$39.19 Hubsan X4 H107L without Camera

$51.45 Hubsan X4 H107C with Camera for recording video to memory card

$171.99 Hubsan X4 H107D with FPV Camera that streams live video to the transmitter's screen

I have this simulator cable from Amazon and it works great on my flysky transmitter and Windows 10 pc. There are also cheaper options from banggood if you are willing to wait

If you are starting out I would personally get a cheap $30-$50 Husban quad to get the feel of it. You will be crashing often and you dont want to ruin expensive equipment. But if you really want FPV I would get this

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Quadcopter-FPV-Camera-Toy/dp/B00GSNWB5K

Half the price. Then use the money you saved to out it towards a DIY later.

Get [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E) one! And several sets of propellers. And get your company to buy it for you as training.

Trust me, you WILL crash many times. If they can afford the big copter, they can afford this too. Give yourself a month to learn on the little one and you will save many hundreds of dollars in repair.

Edit: Just read you're at a water park, so DEFINITELY get the smaller model before flying the big one. Unless a $1400 loss is acceptable.

That cable is used to update the firmware on the transmitter. You'll need a simulator cable, like this, to play on FPVFreerider.

Get a Syma X1 learn how to fly it well, then move on to a more expensive one. Like andersonsjanis said, you won't get anything that can hold a gopro for cheap.

Hitech make a charger but its a little expensive. Probably pretty high quality though.

http://www.amazon.com/X4-Micro-AC-LiPo-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM

I think the stock X4 comes with a 280 mah battery but I read that the 380's were a good compromise of performance and flight time. I'm going to go with these from Amazon.

> That said, the X4 is still better. If you've found it for less than $30, get it! Get it and give me the link!

X4 (H107C) : https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Channel-2-4GHz-Copter-Camera/dp/B00EXBDWZC/ref=sr_1_5?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1468986489&sr=1-5&keywords=hubsan+x4

x4 (H107L) : https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1468986489&sr=1-4&keywords=hubsan+x4

Latrax Alias... and my 15 year old son is doing the flying. Mounted on the alias is a Ultra Micro FPV Camera SPMVA 1100 we are using a pair of Teleporter V4 Goggles and a pair of DYI FPV Goggles from hobbyking. Also we are using a video recorder from hobbyking as well. Thats our kit, so far. Altho as you can tell from the video cut out.. we probably need some sort of ground station to pick up the camera transmitters signal a little better.

I just bought this cable from Amazon. I'm hoping it works and will update when it comes in tmorw. The description says it will work with the FS-i6.

You should consider a small one first. Like a [hubsan x4 from amazon.](
http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417075365&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+x4)

But if you don't mind the pricetag, and want to jump into it. You get ARF kits for 3-400usd. Then you need another 1-200usd in fpv gear. And 4-500 for radio/receiver, flightcontroller and batteries/charger.

In short, you should consider a pricetag around 800-1000usd to get starting. Maybe up to 1500-2000 depending on what you need to buy extra and if you want the "new" HD fpv goggles and so on.

I'm a noob. I just bought this and it should be here tomorrow. You can get one with FPV already set up. I think that one is ~$130. This one's $40. I got a sim app for my computer called Heli-X to learn how to fly it (360 controller compatible). The question is can you fly one? Check out the app t's free.

This is the cable I use, it was plug and play with my Win 7 PC and Liftoff/FPV Freerider. It's a shame it jumped up in price to $15, I paid $10.

https://www.amazon.com/RCmall-Flight-Simulator-Adapter-Flysky/dp/B01AAETLVY/ref=pd_sim_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01AAETLVY&pd_rd_r=JJYFZ6YYXMDF52ABDKFP&pd_rd_w=Ja8V3&pd_rd_wg=na9xB&psc=1&refRID=JJYFZ6YYXMDF52ABDKFP

Here's a Weller station for about twice the price of the HK iron. I have this, and it's sufficient for hobby stuff, at least what I do.

I use a copper scouring pad (Chore Boy!) stuffed into a small tin can (cat food size) to clean the tip.

I live in Canada also :P
That's still cheaper though, I'll keep that in mind for next time. Thanks.
https://www.amazon.ca/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-14-8V-Airplane/dp/B013I9T0T6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505498334&sr=8-1&keywords=tattu

maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/Spektrum-FPV-Ultra-Micro-Camera/dp/B00N3WQVJ6?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0 and then a receiver/screen?

Since I recently purchased the receiver, I think I'll just return it and start over. This looks like it should have what I need: https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519086107&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=flysky&psc=1

Any thoughts?

Available at amazon as well, 100 for a little over $6. I typically use 2, one over each side of the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480944790&sr=8-3&keywords=velcro+strap

What do you want to do with it?
You might be able to build one of these for around $150-$200 (if you have a lot of experience and have flown other quads, it is not easy to fly like that), or you could buy a Blade 200 QX BNF for $220
If you don't have very much flying experience you can buy a Blade Nano QX RTF for $90 or a Hubsan x4 for $40

I used Liftoff, but it worked for FPV Air 2 as well.

Alternatively you can buy this cable.

Ok. I found this one. I'm assuming it's the one with the yaw control on the throttle?

I am using a cheap 30watt iron right now. I was thinking about getting something like this.

1. Turnigy Accucel 6 charger
   
   
   
2. power supply with correct polarity and fitting connector (not included with charger)
   
   
   
3. Micro Losi parallel charing harness (looks like serial, but it's for parallel charging)
   
   
   
4. female JST to 4mm banana plug
   
   and while all of this is on the way, read about parallel charging because LiPo batteries can and will burn your house down if you are careless.
   
   DO NOT have batteries connected without it plugged into your charger. If the banana plugs touch and short the batteries, you will have problems. You will want to unplug the JST connectors instead, because it is much safer.
   
   Learn about C ratings, parallel charging and safe lipo storage.
   
   In a parallel configuration you want your charger to think you're charging a single cell lipo with the combined capacity of all of the batteries. For your 1C charge rate: 240*5=1200mAh/1000=1.2A, so you would select 1.2A and leave the default 3.7v(1S) configuration.
   
   You could also purchase a serial balance harness for those situations where the voltages of the batteries aren't close enough.
   
   This was a really rough write up, and I may edit it a bit. But it's 5 AM and I just wanted to spit it out.
   
   Grrr, I rattled off a bunch of information and the edits didn't take.

Which batteries did you get? I like the TEnergy Batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter/dp/B00HS5Y6G4

As opposed to these I found on banggood:

http://m.banggood.com/5-X-Upgrade-25C-3_7V-380MAH-Battery-For-Hubsan-X4-QR-Ladybird-p-69895.html

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417727353&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+x4

You can use a site like camelcamelcamel.com to keep track of the price. I paid $30 and $35 (lost the first one) when I ordered mine.

https://www.amazon.ca/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-14-8V-Airplane/dp/B013I9T0T6
Would recommend these.

something like theses if you have the money

The receiver gets its power from the server leads that go from the receiver pins to the receiver itself.

You do not need additional power for the receiver from an ESC.



ALso for charger I bought

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466L0BW/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


It will work with batteries up to 6s.

It does not come with an AC adapter so I had to buy this as well

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


They seem to work well together.

Well if you are talking about FPV would this work?

Well what are ya waiting for? Join the fun!

In my opinion, you should cancel that and go for the H210

From my experience in the past, frames that have many parts that assemble together usually cause flight stability issues because of vibrations whereas unibody frames like the one ive linked, have less issues and look cleaner.

The Weller WLC100 has served me well for almost 4 years now.

I work in commercial construction, and a lot of the professional audio/video guys I have seen in the industry use the Weller WES51 or WESD51.

There are nicer soldering irons out there but I bare minimum would be Weller WLC100

Damn the one on banggood was for the drone only! I'm going to order on amazon.

So I tried to get into droning years ago, but the LOS drone I got, I couldn't really get it to hover without moving at a good clip of speed, It was very discouraging. I watched E-max videos and it seems like maybe this drone you are mentioning is alot better. Below is the first attempt drone I had (which after a bunch of crashes I couldn't get to hover at all).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZC6C8E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some seller on amazon has them for $70 shipped, a bit too much.

http://www.amazon.com/X4-Micro-AC-LiPo-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1426032661&sr=1-1&keywords=Hitec+X4+Micro

I use the accucell 6. cheap, seems to work well. charge times are as expected, but the post about parallel charging from u/fryfrog seems to speed that up.

I use this power supply http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Inductrix will carry it, but my flight time is only 1m40s with stock parts, so unless you're willing to upgrade it, I wouldn't recommend it. My first indoor FPV was the Syma X1: http://www.amazon.com/SYMA-Channel-Copter-Spacecraft-shown/dp/B0096SJU3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463525210&sr=8-1&keywords=syma+x1

It used to be cheaper at $30, but it would carry my heavier 9g FPV setup just fine and still get about 5-6min flight times on stock battery. It's considerably bigger than the Inductrix though.

Cut your teeth on something like this before you start throwing money at big/expensive stuff.

You can still get your feet wet for $35 and see if it is a hobby you want to be a part of.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00906PKQ4?pc_redir=1407179475&robot_redir=1

Still can't get it to work. 40w iron. Not enough?

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i
Would that work?

You'll also need:

• Transmitter
  
  
• FPV camera + 5.8ghz video transmitter + circular polarized antennas
  
  
• FPV goggles/screen
  
  
• Lipo batteries + balance charger + power supply
  
  I've linked some budget options for each.

Syma X1

The Syma X1 can't be beat for the price. Very durable and it has 3-axis stabilization (gyro only) so you'll learn skills you'll need for future performance quads.

The NanoQX is higher performance and has the option to fly 6-axis (auto-level) or gyro only but at a higher price.

Would that be the "bumblebee" X1? I was looking at that. Quick question: is there any difference between the bumblebee and the spacecraft X1's? The spacecraft one is about $10 more expensive, but I can't figure out why.

I believe they use two different protocols. However, the Syma X1 uses the same protocol and can be used with the Turnigy 9x. It's a larger quad, but it's also cheaper. That's what I plan on getting to learn on and using my Turnigy 9x.

https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Helicopter-Airplane-Simulator-Controller/dp/B00DR4I4O0

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DR4I4O0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use on my flysky FS-i6.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPGDLA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480774918&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=solder+clean&dpPl=1&dpID=51B7RqNpe1L&ref=plSrch

There is a version of the x4 that has FPV, with a screen built into the controller. $140 (i'm assuming US dollars..?)

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-FPV-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00GSNWB5K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449493414&sr=8-2&keywords=hubsan+x4+fpv

I was thinking this one: https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Quadcopter-FPV-Camera-Toy/dp/B00GSNWB5K

This is the only thing that comes to mind that meets your criteria.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GSNWB5K?pc_redir=1406280329&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107D-FPV-Mini-Quadcopter/dp/B00GSNWB5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1426545840&sr=1-1&keywords=hubsan+fpv

Would this be a good one? It looks so small! Can it even fly outside?

I use both chargers, since I'm recording pre-charge and post-charge voltage, I charge batteries in different slots on the chargers to see if the issue is the battery, or the charger.

Currently I have the two stock batteries 3.7V 350mAH and five new batteries [3.7V 380mAh] (http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00HS5Y6G4).

They're usually for the Hubsan X4. Saw it at Radio Shack with the same connector.

http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00HS5Y6G4

These little guys are tanks. Fly over grass, get plenty of spare props and you are all set on a very affordable budget.

https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1539549955&sr=8-5&keywords=Hubsan+X4

How about $42 bucks:

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1420789989&sr=1-1&keywords=hubsan+x4

New? The hubsan micro should be the first thing purchased. Practice as you assemble.