Best products from r/Nerf

We found 167 comments on r/Nerf discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 1,095 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/Nerf:

u/Jangular · 1 pointr/Nerf

Ok, apologies for the length of this post, but I want to give you multiple options and reasons for them.

Loadout 1 - Flywheels

Target
Rapidstrike Holiday Bundle - Normally I would recommend a stryfe as a starter blaster over this, because the rapidstrike usually needs some level of modding to reach it's potential, but since the holiday bundle comes with 2 18 clips rather than 1, I feel that since you're essentially getting the rapidstrike and 2 clips for the same cost as a stryfe and 2 18 clips then it warrants looking at. Should you prefer the smaller form of the stryfe and the semi auto rather than full auto, then you can get that and 2 more of the 18 dart clips linked below from amazon.

Hammershot - If you want a secondary, this is the way to go in my opinion, since you can use it with one hand and it just is a great platform.

$60~ Shipped

Narrowbase
Nmag Clip Holder - These clip holders are fantastic and not super bulky, giving you quick and easy access to your clips while wearing a belt. Certainly an investment, but a worthwhile one.

Belt Loop Adapters - Same as the clip holders, but for your hammershot.

Belt Loop Adapters - These are to use your clip and hammershot holders on your belt, meaning you don't need to buy a molle platform. Choose size according to belt width.

$70~ Shipped

Amazon
[Extra Clip](http://www.amazon.com/N-Strike-Elite-18-Dart-Quick-Reload/dp/B0083TXZCA/ref=sr_1_20?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1421366408&sr=1-20&keywords=nerf
) - Having extra clips is near essential to avoid having to constantly stop and reload your clip. Since the Holida Rapidstrike comes with 2, another clip on top of that puts you at 3 which is a decent start.

$11~ Shipped

Ebay
Koosh Darts - These are the go to darts for affordable and effective darts. They're more accurate than elite streamlines, but you might encounter some that have quality issues. Overall the price and accuracy is worth the occasional bad dart.

$20~ Shipped

Total - $161~
I know that's a little over what you listed, if you needed to be firm on the $150, you could drop the hammershot and holster, pick up another clip and a single clip holder from Narrowbase and I think that should be closer to the $150 mark.

Loadout 2 - Springer

Amazon
Rampage - The rampage is a good springer platform to start with, and the extra ammo capacity is always a plus.

[Extra Clip](http://www.amazon.com/N-Strike-Elite-18-Dart-Quick-Reload/dp/B0083TXZCA/ref=sr_1_20?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1421366408&sr=1-20&keywords=nerf
) - Same reasons as loadout 1 except buying 2 this time rather than one.

$52~

Blastersmiths UK

MkI Battle Belt - This is in my opinion a good molle platform since it has built in clip holders, with molle space you can build on. Also since it isn't a full vest it isn't as bulky or restrictive.

Large Dump Pouch - Something that I wasn't able to squeeze into the other loadout, and was less necessary because the NMAGS can serve as a storage for used clips as well. Basically this just gives you a place to quickly drop used clips when switching out. This is more necessary for this loadout because you have the drum that comes with the rampage you need somewhere to drop.

Molle Attachment Bars - These are used to attach your dump pouch to your battle belt or molle platform of choice.

$75~

Ebay
Koosh Darts - Same as the first loadout.

$20~

Total - $147~

This loadout has some different gear than the first because I wanted you to see two different ways you could go with a loadout, so don't be afraid to take aspects from one to apply to the other, it's all about finding what works for you, this is just what I would go with if I had that kind of budget, because I feel like having good gear is just as important as a good blaster, because having reliable and quick or easy access to your clips is important in games, especially HvZ, which I have no idea if that's something you intend to play or not. Anyways, I hope this gives you a good starting point! If you have any questions on why I picked certain things, let me know!

u/DBLDRGN · 9 pointsr/Nerf

There are a ton of games and you can find many on this subreddit and also sites like nerfhaven by searching 'game modes'...

I'll list what we have fun playing at our Philly area wars:

-King of the Hill. You need the DGT cube timer if you want to play this game but it's worth it. Two or more teams fight to capture an area, turn the timer to your team's color and try to hold the point for as long as possible, at the end of a round check the timer to see which team has the most time. Locate respawn points at each team's base (at the edge of the map) and place the hill point somewhere near the middle of the map. Just watch jangular's BURN videos to see lots of king of the hill being played, it is a very fun game. Try it with three teams sometimes and if you have just a few players it can be fun to run it as 'every player for themselves"
link to timer cube: https://www.amazon.com/Cube-Game-Timer-Chess-Clock/dp/B004S56RJG

-capture the air horn
We've been playing this a lot lately, this game is the same as capture the flag but does not require players to return the flag to their own base, instead players simply sound the other team's air horn to win the match. We usually play this game with kill/confirmed rules instead of respawn tag rules. (Requires two air horns)


Defend the Base
One team digs in and another team assaults, pretty simple.

Defend the core
Similar to defend the base but with a "core" that acts like a goal. Each team tries to get more darts into the other team's core

Trouble in terrorist town
Just google the rules for this it's a popular game

Glorious leader
There's two teams assassins and bodyguards and one leader or VIP... one player is the glorious leader aka VIP and he/she has a squad of body guards, their team's objective is to visit several points on the map and then extract the glorious leader but if the leader is tagged the game is over. The way we play this is with unbalanced teams (VIPs team has more players) and unbalanced tag out rules (infinite respawns for the assassins but the VIPs team has kill/confirmed tagout rules)

There's a lot more but those are my favorites as of now. KotH is my absolute top favorite game though.





u/Meishel · 6 pointsr/Nerf

I run this instead of a Dremel brand tool. I have had a couple Dremels die on me over the years, so I tried this one and it has lasted 4 years so far! I also got a lot of my bits from harbor freight. I use the cuttoff wheels (ALWAYS WEAR FACE PROTECTION WITH THESE), Sanding Drums, and grinding stones the most. Use the cutoff for cutting out large swaths of material, sanding drums for tighter areas, and grinding stones to debur and smooth it all out. Most work that needs a dremel can be done with hand tools for better control. Coping saw, files, and flush cutters can go a long way. A lot of the "pros" don't use Dremels because they can jump out of control and hit a part of the blaster you planned on leaving stock and leaving a huge gash.

As for soldering Irons, I've heard wonderful things about this model, but cheaper models will work fine. TBH, I'd grab something in the $10 range and see if he sticks with the hobby. Maybe for christmas you can get him a nicer one if he's still going at it. I use a super duper old school Weller soldering station, so really anything will work. The issue you'll get with the cheaper soldering irons is the tips will tend to not last long and the heating element might crap out after a few months. Don't go cheaper than $10 here as some of them are meant for wood engraving, not soldering and wont get hot enough to melt solder. Any size solder is fine. I personally use lead/tin solder and just avoid breathing fumes as well as wash my hands when I'm done modding. Lead solder is MUCH easier to work with and requires less heat. Look for "Rosin Core solder" as it's easier to work with as it has flux in the center of the solder.

Good flush cutters, hobby knife, wire strippers, heatshrink, wire, loctite, etc are all valuable modding supplies. We sell some on our shop (shameless plug). I would recommend for plastic to plastic bonds he use Devcon Plastic Welder (make sure it contains Methyl Methacrylate as this acts as a solvent weld to bond the plastics together chemically instead of a weak adhesive grip like putty). Putty should be used as a filler material. I use two different putties. Free form Air for large amounts of gap fill, it is 6 times less dense than normal putty so it wont make the blaster weight 8 pounds when done. It is VERY easy to sand, but sometimes requires a thin layer of bondo over top of it to leave a perfect finish. I also use Apoxie Sculpt which is a direct replacement for normal putty for gap filling purposes. It's MUCH easier to sand than JB Weld putty, and leaves a nice smooth finish when sanded down.

Speaking of sandpaper, get various grades of sandpaper from 100 down to 600 grit (I go as far as 1000 if I want a gloss sheen on something).

Other than all of that, the tools I have on my bench that I would hate to mod without now are: Helping hands (for soldering), various different sizes of needle nose pliers, numerous sizes of small to medium screwdrivers, silicone lubricant, hot glue (for securing wires inside the shell), Electric Screwdriver, and various tweezers.

u/dangman4ever · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Get both as both have advantages over the other that balances each other out:

The Mediator is easier and faster to use out of the box IMO since it already has a pump grip already. It's just as easy to upgrade the spring in the Mediator as it is with the Recon Mk2. However, the main con against the Mediator is that it's not left-hander friendly, some people may find the ergonomics a bit off (i.e the short travel of the pump grip isn't to everyone's liking and can throw people off), and the side magwell may be an issue for indoor or heavily cover areas.

The Recon Mk2's chief advantage over the Mediator is that if you wait and monitor this link long enough, you can get the Recon Mk2 for like $5 to $8 easily:
https://www.amazon.com/Nerf-Modulus-Recon-MK11-Toy/dp/B019JI9QGC

You can then use the remaining $10 to $12 that you would spent on the full Recon Mk2 setup on larger 3rd party magazines off NFStrike or eBay and items you need to create a PVC pump grip like the one you see in Beret's video here:
https://youtu.be/F9a93tOFxaI?t=79

IMO, the Recon Mk2 + custom pump grip is more ergonomically friendly than the Mediator. The front barrel and the stock on the normal full Recon Mk2 kit are just plain useless so really not worth spending money on them.

But yeah, get both as variety in blasters is a good thing to have in general. Not one blaster is to everyone's taste. In fact, speaking of variety, in addition to the Recon Mk2 and the Mediator, get the Buzz Bee Air Warriors Interceptor and the Snipe:
http://www.kmart.com/buzz-bee-toys-air-warriors-interceptor/p-004W004505410001P?plpSellerId=Kmart&prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7

http://www.kmart.com/buzz-bee-toys-air-warriors-snipe/p-004W009610652001P?plpSellerId=Kmart&prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

The Buzz Bee Interceptor already has a very ergonomic pump grip, can take K26 spring for super performance increase, and its out of the box performance is a bit higher than the Recon Mk2 and Mediator. The Inteceptor shoots at an average velocity of 77FPS whereas the both the Recon Mk2 and Mediator shoots at an average velocity of 65FPS. The main con against the Interceptor (they fixed the Magwell issue apparently) is that small grip and short stock. But that can be fixed:
https://imgur.com/gallery/sdePI

Why the Snipe? Because it's a really really fun blaster to play with. The whole bolt action sequence on the Snipe is just utterly fun to play with. Combined with the overall look, it does bring out the inner "I'm a snipah!!" feel. At the end of the day, Nerf isn't just about performance or a massive arms race. It's about fun too and roleplaying or acting your inner sniper is part of that fun. With that said, the Snipe actually has the better out of the box performance since it can shoot at an average velocity of 85FPS. It can also take a K26 spring upgrade as well.

u/Daehder · 3 pointsr/Nerf

No worries; I saw your replies come in over notifications and noticed the same thing. I checked with the mods, and we think it's just some weirdness with Reddit, since it looks like they're having some errors right now.

You are correct that I would not suggest running 4 IFRs.

The voltages you found are nominal voltages at rest; under load, the voltages will drop, especially when the motors overdraw the motors as much as with Alkalines and their measly 500 mA current capabilities. NiMH cells are much more capable while still being far more stable than 14500 (AA-sized) li-ion cells like the Coolooks, so their voltage while the motors are spun up should be higher than Alkaline cells. For example, Eneloops are capable of providing 10 A, though they are on the top end of the spectrum of NiMH cells.

​

To your other question about AA-sized cells to safely hit 85 fps, that's not possible without modification. With NiMH cells like Eneloops and a rewire to remove most of the highly resistive components, you might hit 85 fps with a Rayvenfire (white) or Elite (Blue) Rayven. I'm less certain about the original (green) or Stinger (yellow) Rayvens since they were build for the N-strike range, which had much lower fps than the Elite line.

On Eneloops alone, I'd expect a 5-10 fps boost, and an another 5-10 fps from a rewire.

Eneloops are generally considered the best NiMH cells based on a number of tests as well as general availability. You can get them on Amazon for pretty cheap, or you can also pick up rewrapped cells (the same internal cell with a different label) like the AmazonBasics rechargeable batteries or the Ikea Ladda batteries.

​

My concern is less for the motors heating up and more for the batteries and battery contacts heating up. The fps numbers you recorded seem to support* that something isn't quite right. A stock Rayven on an 11.1 V 3S lipo should hit 105-110 fps pretty consistently. 4 Coolooks form an effective 12.8 V 4S pack; with a 1.7 V nominal increase over the lipo, I would expect higher fps, not a median 10-15 fps lower. That said, if the circuit is highly resistive (bleeding voltage to heat) and the cells are overdrawn and sagging, that would explain lost fps.

​

​

* FPS readings do have some variance Chrono to Chrono, so it's not perfect.

u/badon_ · 4 pointsr/Nerf

Any good quality generic NiMH's will work. Generic NiMH batteries are good for 500 charge cycles, and the best ones will typically hold their charge 1 year. Genuine AA Eneloop NiMH batteries are good for 2100 charge cycles, and will hold their charge for 10 years minimum. You need to buy generic NiMH batteries AT LEAST FIVE TIMES to match a real Eneloop battery. You won't save money that way.

The reason Eneloop is recommended instead is because they last much longer, and that makes them much more economical, even though they work exactly the same as all other NiMH's (even the bad ones). When you get Eneloops, get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

u/foam_data · 4 pointsr/Nerf

I budget for a minimum of 24 darts per player. I would buy some Koosh or Voberry darts, but delivery time is now against you.

My group has developed to the extent that every player needs at least 50 each, some pack 100+ darts a game. With wear and tear that gets expensive if you use Elites. Thank god for aftermarket darts!

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DONT BUY THE SOLID HEAD FVJ'S they are barred at all my games as they can leave bruises. Everyone should wear safety spec, whatever dart you use.

Voberry Link

BW12 Koosh link, now with better tip glue

u/ThunderKrunk · 5 pointsr/Nerf

On the contrary; you will find that veteran members of the groups actually spend a decent amount of money to keep the games going or make the games better.

Flags, flag poles, flag pole mounts, the DGT Cuber Timers, community dart bin for dart rentals, bottled water, ice, cooler, first aid kit supplies, pop-up canopy, other props for different game type, etc. all cost money.

The cost, time, and effort all add up if you play monthly. Yeah, you can charge $5 for the dart rental every month; but it really doesn't make the nerf group money. The money goes towards new darts that need to be replaced every so often, new stuff like Rival HIRs come out and need to be added to the rental system, props need to be replaced, medical equipment is generally one time use, and some medical stuff expires (so it needs to be inventoried each month).

Generally, that is why you will find that your average event host is in their mid 20's and older. Because nerf even upkeep requires a steady income from a job/career.

I'm not saying all that is necessary for successful nerf group; but BURN continues to grow and its been around for 6-7 years. NoBACoN based their group off of BURN, EBAN plays at the same venue, and other groups have spawned under the Bay Area Nerf umbrella. So, I would say it is a successful example; but it is definitely not the only example.

u/puncstrad · 5 pointsr/Nerf

Boomco M6/Farshot/Plasma Pistol. $5 to $10 dollars per, plus $12 for enough K26 to fill 15 of them. May take some time and patience to get used to modding them, but despite the annoyingly sturdy construction they can definitely be modded without severe aesthetic damage. u/DukeWintermaul has a very detailed but long youtube video describing the spring replacement process if you need help.

 

The pistol shows those new to Nerf the potential of superstock mods, and teaches them to value every dart and lead their shots, which I believe is far more important than mindlessly spraying. It'll make them more capable and athletic players, since many (dare I say most) casual Nerfers don't mod anyway.

 

^(Not as good of an idea if you play with mostly children or teens, though. The priming weight of a modded Farshot variant is quite heavy, and can hurt your hands, which is why some opt to add a pull bar or ring to the end of the plunger rod)

u/ZeroMercuri · 7 pointsr/Nerf

>Are 12 round mags easier to find?

No

>Are they particularly cheaper

No

>does the 6 extra dart capacity not justify the extra cost?

N/A

>Are they particularly less bulky?

YES! Especially if you have a dropleg holster with a Stryfe, the 12 round is WAAAAY less awkward.

>Do they perform better?

No.

>I've heard that 12 rounds fit into AR mag pouches pretty easily

True!

>Am I just making the situation up in my head, and 18 round mags are just superior and used more often?

I'm pretty sure this is the case. People tend to use 18s for their price/capacity/availability. Some people with infinite amounts of money exclusively use P-Mags for their style (and they hold almost as many darts). And others use the 22 round Worker mags for their extra 4 darts. But I still say the 18 round mags are the most common.

u/entrluzrnaam · 3 pointsr/Nerf

If you can get a good balancing charger and can be responsible and safe with it, a lipo will definitely be better than IMRs as far as performance goes. If you do go with lipos, you should probably get a better rev switch.

Here's a good rev switch:
https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Microswitch-V-156-1C25-plunger-action/dp/B00K67YO8G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202242&sr=8-2&keywords=15A+microswitch

And here's a great lipo:
https://www.amazon.com/ZIPPY-Compact-1000mAh-Lipo-Pack/dp/B00TDCDKLW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202444&sr=8-1&keywords=zippy+compact+1000mah+3s+25c+lipo+pack

u/BlasterLabs · 1 pointr/Nerf

To my knowledge, that's not correct. To clarify:

  • F2A wasn't the only group at Toy Fair. :) Not that it matters, but we were actually meeting with Hasbro before Vas, and posting images before him or anyone else (so many sites used our images we had to start watermarking them). The point is that we know what was there, and the XD products were limited to the Demolisher and Nerf Cam. No others had been announced.
  • To that end, the Stryfe shown at Toy Fair was unlabeled, and in all likelihood was just the "Orange Julius" Stryfe that has been for sale since last December. Several other recolors like the Rough Cut 2x4 were also shown, but again, the "XD" was not mentioned.
  • It was not know that all Elite blasters going forward would have XD ranges, until we broke the news right here.

    Having said all that, it's entirely possible someone else mentioned the XD version of the Stryfe before this post or even before the Dartblaster.de post. But saying we've all known about it since Toy Fair isn't accurate.
u/Zombona · 5 pointsr/Nerf

My primary loadout is BOOMco based and used in HVZ. It's always been going through an evolution of sorts so this is the latest iteration. I use this loadout during long games even if it slows me down a little.

  • The Twisted Madness This blaster needs no secondary as jams are not an issue and I have a front gun for taking well placed shots.

  • This chest rig This was the latest change and with this rig I can carry four 40rd clips and keep spare darts on hand very easily.

  • I carry five 40rd clips and a slew of spare darts for topping off clips or refilling the front gun.

  • The air tank for this blaster is in a seperate generic backpack. I keep a tire pump in my car if I need to fill the tank back up. It has a shot capacity of 700 shots and has never run out so far.

    My accuracy loadout or the one I primarily play in skirmishes or if I have a squad I can really count on. When I don't want to miss my targets I run this loadout. It also much lighter than my main loadout so I can stay on my feet longer and move much faster. This loadout has an engagement range that is about 20-30 feet greater than my main loadout but doesn't have the same RoF. This is the funnest loadout I have.

  • My primary is a double springed Breakflip using modified 20rd mags. I keep this blaster on hand but isn't what I use most often.

  • My secondary is cut down double springed Halo M6. This 100fps blaster shoots lasers and is the first blaster I start an engagement. I shoot this one first when the target is in the 40-60 foot range. It's usually a 50/50 shot. If I miss then I grab my primary and the real fire fight begins.

  • This chest rig I use this chest rig as well because it holds BOOMco clips so well. I can carry three modified 20rd clips, one unmodified 40rd clip, and a slew of spare darts to keep the DS-M6 firing for days.

  • I run with four modified 20rd clips so they have just a little bit more punch and distance, and one 40 rd clip. I break out the 40 if I anticipate a substantial number of shots are going to be used and range won't be as important.

    If I want to run Nerf I make sure I bring the firepower. None of my BOOMco loadouts can bring the heat that this one can. This loadout is also very light as the rig I use is very minimalist and the blasters are compact.

  • Primary is my OJ Stryfe. 180-3240 motors running on a 2s lipo. Fully rewired of course. Made to look as stock as possible. I have expanded the jam door to allow for loading while the clip is in. This blaster has great RoF and FPS which is why it has more heat than either of my other primaries. It is the bridge between the two.

  • Secondary is a OMW kit Firestrike that has been rewired to use real LEDs and provide useable light.

  • This chest rig. I can carry six 18rd mags very easily in this rig and it is not very cumbersome.

  • I run seven 18rd mags and keep more darts in a dump pouch to keep myself topped off as well as quickly pick up darts.
u/murse_joe · 4 pointsr/Nerf

I'd say buy a Nerf Hammershot It's pretty easy, it's a five shot revolver. It's got a hammer to cock instead of a slide, so you can prime and fire it one handed. Easy to still have a drink or hold on to something, or you can dual wield. It's pretty cheap, takes most any dart, and is a lot of fun to cock like a revolver.

There's also the Strongarm and the Disruptor. They're both six shot revolves, slide primed so harder to dual wield but they're solid and you won't have any problems running them, and they take pretty much any dart. If you ever played with a Maverick when you were younger, they're basically the modern equivalents.

EDIT: the Hammershot is actually on sale on Amazon. You can also grab them cheap at Walmart or Target.

u/Fireproofjeans · 2 pointsr/Nerf

/u/Mistr_MADness has the right of it. For under half price you can get the basic blaster.

Unless you're sub 5' tall, the stock that comes with the full price version isn't going to function well as a stock. The worker one he recommended is fantastic, I have the black version.

As for how well that blaster stacks up, it's going to depend on your intention. Are you just plinking around the house? This'll be great at that. Are you planning on going to HvZ or some kind of Nerf war? if so, you're either going to want to invest in some spare magazines or look at a turreted blaster, as those are easy to reload on the run.

The recon has excellent potential for modding though! If you happen to come across an original barrel extension you can convert the pistol into a pump-grip rifle, which makes it far easier to prime after you mod it for maximum power!

u/ben827 · 4 pointsr/Nerf

The Longstrike? Was it a thrift item?

If you're not planning on modding it, you're gonna have a bad time. The Longstrike has a pretty bad reputation around here.

Since you're kinda new, I'd strongly recommend you get this blaster. Again pricing varies, so the waiting game is the best way to go.

Here's another excellent beginner's blaster, they sell for $20 at Target, but this Amazon link is for convenience. I'd also check out eBay.

Around here, we really like this blaster..

Maybe those links will also help you.


Edit: Did I mention the Stryfe comes with a 6 dart clip? So that would have you covered on multiple levels if you're interested. As others have said, 12, 18, 25, and 35 clips/drums also work with your blaster. So anything you can find that says "clip" or "drum" is okay to use as long as it uses darts. Disc clips are not compatible with this blaster, nor are disc drums.

u/WaldoTheRanger · 1 pointr/Nerf

When you buy darts, I highly recommend buying something other than official nerf brand. they're expensive and inaccurate when compared with others.

​

these are the best if you care about respecting nerf's intellectual property: (200 for $13)

https://www.amazon.com/EKIND-Waffles-compatible-N-strike-AccuStrike/dp/B01MUBMT1F/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2GU95RCVRFWU&keywords=ekind%2Baccustrike%2Bnerf%2Bdarts&qid=1556245393&s=gateway&sprefix=e%2Bkind%2Baccu%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-3&th=1

​

if you don't, then these: (1000 for $45, or $28 with the current sale)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1000Pcs-Flat-Soft-Hole-Head-7-4cm-1-3CM-Refill-Darts-Toy-Set-Accessories-EVA-Bullets/32899671976.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000013.1.722872be8hYhvD&gps-=

​

sadly there aren't any good third party vortex discs available to my knowledge.

​

also, excellent haul. that's quite a steal.

u/Kuryaka · 1 pointr/Nerf

Iron sights with stock blasters are kind of unreliable just because the standard Elite darts aren't very good. Stock blaster accuracy depends more on the dart than the blaster.

The Accustrike line has heavier darts that are more accurate, but they will reduce your ranges slightly. A quick search for waffle tip Nerf darts on Amazon or Adventure Force waffle darts gets you a TON of darts at similar quality to Accustrike for a lot cheaper.

If you like the Disruptor, get it. It has better performance (slightly more power) than the Falconfire. People saying the Falconfire is more accurate might be seeing an improvement in accuracy because of the better darts and the fact that you just don't have as much range.

u/pacificmods · 21 pointsr/Nerf

I have done a bit of modding here and there, but this is the furthest I've gone to date. At a high level, this is a fully rewired Nemesis running on stock motors but a 3S 1000mah LiPo. It also features expanded ammo capacity, an integrated voltmeter in a 3d printed battery compartment cover, and a nose to tail paint job. This was my first attempt at this type of paint job, and the blaster came second hand, so there are definitely a few imperfections. Still, I think I'm in love. Name for this beauty is still in the works.

​

Detailed parts list:

Blaster: Nerf Nemesis

Switch Mounts: Trigger https://outofdarts.com/products/nemesis-switch-mounting-plate-3d-printed-ideal-trigger-switch-placement and Rev Switch Mounting plates https://outofdarts.com/products/nemesis-rev-switch-mounting-plate-3d-printed-ideal-rev-switch-placement

Micro switches (2): Omron 21A

Battery: Zippy Compact 1000mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TDCDKLW

Battery Charger: Turnigy E3 Compact 2S/3S Lipo Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XU4ZR06

Battery Door: Custom 3d Printed battery door with hole for voltmeter by Rearmory. https://www.etsy.com/listing/629209612/nerf-rival-nemesis-custom-battery-door

Voltmeter: DC 6-100V Digital Voltmeter https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-ACID-Lead-Battery-Capacity-Indicator-Charge-Level-LED-Tester-Meter-Voltmeter/292303696369?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Expanded Ammo Hopper: Medium Rear Loading hopper by 3DPrintedSolid https://www.etsy.com/listing/639284923/murder-hole-hopper-attachment-for-nerf

Wiring: 16 AWG silicone wrapped wire

XT60 Connector (1)

Paint: Krylon Primer followed by Dupli-color Metalcast Ground Coat and then Metalcast Yellow/Orange/Red.

u/MeakerVI · 5 pointsr/Nerf

>Also, would a 1000 40C 2s lipo work with this build?

Motors are ~30 Amps at stall. Your battery provides 1,000 mAh 40 C = 40 Amps continuous, but you need 60. You're probably within burst rating for the battery, but to avoid risking it you'd need a 1.5 Ah 40C battery.

Here's my copy-pasta answer for most of the other stuff; IDK which wheels are
optimal so I'll let someone else answer that:

Guide

Motors

Xt60 (Sub for your connector if your lipo isn't an Xt60, or carefully resolder your lipo - NEVER CROSS THE STREAMS! - so it is)

Wire

Heat Shrink

Switch (Genuine Omron Switch )

Epoxy Putty (to mount switch)

Flywheel Cages

And Wheels: Artifact, OOD Insutanto, Worker, CC Cyclone

Also good to have an Alarm, I'm partial to the style listed so you can check voltage between rounds and leave it off the rest of the time, though he sells others.

Also a good battery setup for up to 60 Amps motor draw, according to /u/LukeKoboJobo:
>I'm in love with these lipos paired with these expanded trays. They fit together perfectly.

Some footnotes: You don't need wheels, cage, or motors right away, but plan for the motors to go bad at some point if you don't. DO NOT replace just the wheels & cage if you're not replacing the motors, or replace the motors & wheels without also doing the cage (if you'll want that). Mounting and unmounting the wheels can wreck them.

/u/outofdarts sells other mod parts specific to your build not linked, if you want to look around. Containment Crew and Foamblast are also good shops, but OOD is
also* in the PNW so I gotta throw him all the bones.

u/superchikn · 1 pointr/Nerf

I have the Hakko 888 and it is awesome but overkill for my needs and for most people probably.
I also have the same $18 soldering kit and agree, it is really nice functionally (the blue plastic handle is lightweight.

I had done a lot of searching after i got my Hakko and the Ayoue models are supposed to be really nice, about on par with Hakko and more affordable.

u/Hexsin · 1 pointr/Nerf

Alright, ya know what, fine. I'm going with this https://www.amazon.com/PC537-1C-5S-X-2-Ultra-Miniature-Automotive-Relay/dp/B07FP593R4 being controlled by my regulator PCB at 6 volts (on the coil side) and using active braking at the full 7.4 volts for the switch side, throwing a 1N4500 diode between the motor and relay cause I don't know if back EMF can f*** up the relay, and I'm gunna do the same between the relay and the PCB just to be careful because I don't fully understand if I should be worried about that. Happy?

​

Edit: for the sake of those reading-up on this subject later, I installed the relay linked above last night and everything is working well so far! The feed-rate of my magazines is now the limiting factor, though when they do feed correctly, I have indeed seen a noticeable increase in darts-per-second now that the Meishel 2.0 motors are getting all the voltage and current they desire. However, because of the inconsistent feed rate, I can't really estimate how many darts per second I'm averaging after the upgrade.

u/JkStudios · 6 pointsr/Nerf

VISM AK Chest Rig - $20.

Absolutely love this chest rig! It holds 6 mags comfortably, and 2 more could be tucked in the pouches on the side. For the price, it cannot be beat.

Image of Chest Rig

Video of Fitting

Another Video

I run around without the bungee straps attached. With double stacking, the mags stay in there quite nicely, and have never fell out. The way I play, I have an 18 and a 12 mag in each pouch. I pull the 18 mag out first, because on it's own without any bungee straps, it's possible for it to fall out.

u/torukmakto4 · 3 pointsr/Nerf

> Would it matter which side of the motor circuit I place the relay in?

No

>Do I require any of the auxiliary electronic components like the flyback diode and/or some resistors if I go the route of using a relay?

Putting a flyback diode and some suppression caps near the motor might be a good idea to reduce noise/EMI since electronics are present, but the relay contacts don't need either any more than a direct-acting switch does. The coil which is being driven by the solid-state power stage should have a flyback diode.

>Since I'm running 2 fangs for the motors, but only a M2.0 for the pusher, and both connect to ground separately, that means I only need to find a relay that can hold up to the stall amperage of JUST the M2.0, not all 3 combined, right?

Yes

>or perhaps this: https://www.amazon.com/PC537-1C-5S-X-2-Ultra-Miniature-Automotive-Relay/dp/B07FP593R4 ?)

That would work:

  • 5V coil

  • SPDT: you need that for active braking of the motor

  • 100A make 40A break at 14VDC is definitely sufficient for a M2
u/LukeKoboJobo · 1 pointr/Nerf

I'm in love with these lipos paired with these expanded trays. They fit together perfectly.

u/ahalekelly · 1 pointr/Nerf

Don't even think about getting a non-temperature controller iron. They get way too hot and destroy your tip, making it impossible to get proper heat transfer. Weller makes some good irons, but that $40 one you linked is not at all one of them. That $100 Hakko is very nice, as are the knockoffs of their older models, like this $60 937+ and this $33 936.

At the low end, I got this $18 soldering kit for my travel bag recently, the tweezers, stand and solder sucker are extremely cheap, but the iron is almost as good as my station. Swap the cone tip out for the small chisel tip they send, get a brass sponge to clean your tip, and you're good to go.

u/Hawki007 · 1 pointr/Nerf

Sweet. Keep us up to date on the ammo counter! Get this, stuff works great =)

u/NerfCommando64 · 1 pointr/Nerf

>Copy pasta'ed from my post a few months ago:

After doing some research, here are my top 3 budget soldering iron options. Thoughts?

My $4 Harbour Freight iron's tip is dissolving, and it's time I got a new iron. I don't solder super often, maybe a handful of times a month, so I can't really justify getting a nice $40 Weller soldering station. My budget is around $30. After doing some Google-Fu, and browsing through Amazon and Ebay, here are my top 3 budget choices:

u/Lordsquiggles7 · 5 pointsr/Nerf

Here's an easy [mod kit] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TDP7KKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483831622&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=nerf+modulus&dpPl=1&dpID=41lbq8qO0jL&ref=plSrch), yet this is more of an [immortal kit] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009T45XNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483831666&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=nerf+stryfe&dpPl=1&dpID=5194zMQELQL&ref=plSrch) although get it when it's back in stock online at its usual $20 or in stores if you can find it.

Jokes aside, there's really no point in making springer blasters into flywheel when you can just get a flywheel blaster. If there's still hope left in you, know that the area in front of the mkII barrel isn't long enough to fit a full sized flywheel cage without jutting forward.

But anyway, to answer your question, yes. integrate a flywheel cage and a Stryfe style pusher into your internals. You can still buy the above blasters mentioned and use the their parts, though you are scrapping some decent blasters.

u/ScarSent77 · 5 pointsr/Nerf

Headshot ammo. Very good manufacturing quality, terrific value for money, and you get a free dump pouch.

https://www.amazon.com/HeadShot-Ammo-Compatible-Replacement-High-Impact/dp/B01G9S33GY

u/sp00kymemes · 7 pointsr/Nerf

Hammershot -$15US on amazon.

Elite Spectre -$50US on amazon.

About 1/5 of the price of this haul.

Amazon is love, Amazon is life.

u/Gildan_Bladeborn · 1 pointr/Nerf

Besides the ones from Walmart you've already been linked to (also sold at Target), there are a bunch of options - starting with full length dart designs:

  • Worker makes full length versions of their short darts now; presumably they will perform similarly.
  • There are of course "Accufake" darts, commonly used because you can purchase them in very large quantities for not a lot of money, and get something that's almost exactly an Accustrike dart (just more likely to fall apart sooner).
  • Modified springers with tight barrels that are, for some reason, still firing full length darts should use something like these with a tapering head, as the Dart Zone/Adventure Force waffles and Accustrike/Accufakes all have heads the same width as the foam body, which doesn't tend to work in tight barrels.

    For short darts (where I stop having to put "accurate" in quotes):

  • Worker's short darts are very acccurate, and not too expensive.
  • For certain blaster designs that have issues with Worker darts, ACC soft-tipped darts are another very solid option (listing also lets you select a couple different types of hard-tipped ACC darts, but you shouldn't).

    Really though, if you have access to a Walmart or Target, and don't need to fire full length darts out of a sealed breech system, get the Adventure Force/Dart Zone 200-packs - you pay almost as little per dart as you do with Accufakes, for a product with very good glue and essentially identical performance.
u/thedisapprovingbear · 5 pointsr/Nerf

Does it have to be from Amazon? A few people here recommend the dart zone magnum - but Amazon's price is a little above your budget. Target has it for $20 though.

The Magnum's a good pick because it shoots a little harder than most stock Nerf blasters, has a 40 round capacity, and doesn't require you to invest in extra magazines for quick reloads. You can just carry spare darts on you and reload on the fly.

If it's Amazon only, I'd go for the Flipfury or maybe the Stratobow if you're into archery/don't mind the lack of a trigger

u/RevelHalcyon · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Yeah dude, just straighten them up and use some epoxy as Dogmai781 said, or better yet, some plastic welding methyl methacrylate such as this guy, my personal favorite.

https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-22045-Plastic-Welder-Dev-Tube/dp/B003NUGL9S?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

u/rampage998 · 2 pointsr/Nerf

This is the vest I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E98Z4K/ref=twister_B005OIBYQM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I'm not sure if this is the one 'Sir Petals' uses, but I really like it and would recommend it!

u/FC-TWEAK · 1 pointr/Nerf

Never cared for the ZS Crossbow, but minimized and painted it looks pretty cool.

An alternative to epoxy putty is Apoxie Sculpt. Pwntatoz has a good video on it.

u/Duke_Wintermaul · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Cheap, secure, adjustable.

Holds 12x18rd clips at max capacity.

Edit: The Urban/Snow Camo version is probably your best price/performance ratio.

u/Yowomboo · 1 pointr/Nerf

Any adhesive using methyl methacrylate (MMA) will work.

Devcon Plastic Welder Link

Loctite Plastic Bonder. It MUST SAY "Plastic Bonder" This stuff. Another link The loctite plastic epoxy without the word bonder on it doesn't work on the same materials. It inconveniently comes in the same color packaging.

I'm pretty sure there are others available but I don't know their names. If you look at the packaging and it says methyl methacrylate you should be good to go.

/u/Raviable

u/Mickey-the-Luxray · 1 pointr/Nerf

Solid choices, although are you planning on buying the official Elite darts? I think Voberry Darts would allow you to provide your kid with many more darts for a longer time. The fact that they're slightly larger than Elites allows them to be used without wearing down for a longer period of time. They won't need to be replaced as often as a result.

Although, there are two kinks in the Voberry darts; one is that the shipping protection is often inadequate, resulting in crushed (and thereby useless) darts. The other is that every once in a while, a dart will have a completely solid head. They must be thrown out as well.

Despite those problems, the Voberry darts are still a better value for the money than official Elites, especially since your kid isn't attending hardcore wars and likely won't be going through darts too quickly. And even if he does, $5 isn't too much to spare for 50 extra. C:

u/Myvenom · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Ok good because I’d recommend this stuff. It’s very easy to work with and fill holes. A little tip is to wet your fingers down after it’s pretty much in place and smooth it out. It takes awhile to set up but after that a little sanding and paint away.

u/darth-diglett · 2 pointsr/Nerf

I'd go with Headshot rounds. They come in many different colors and they've always had a good reputation. They're pretty cheap, too.

https://www.amazon.com/HeadShot-Ammo-Compatible-Replacement-High-Impact/dp/B01G9S33GY/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=headshot+rounds&qid=1563597449&s=gateway&sr=8-6

u/iCANhazRECON · 6 pointsr/Nerf

>For Rival Ammo
>
>For Mega Ammo
>
>For Vortex Ammo
>
>For AccuStrike Ammo
>
>For Clips
>
>For Attachments
>
>For the cheapest darts i could find
>
>For Base Recon Mk 2 because at the time of posting this its $4.38

There are a few other things I should fix about this post, but I won't because I've already just fixed your formatting for free

u/dkdavid721 · 2 pointsr/Nerf

my opinion is don't bother with drums. Amazon sells 18 round stick mags for $12 and it comes with 18 darts. Stick mags take up less space so they are easier to carry than drums and you can tape them together if you wan't fast reloads. Also if you run an hvz rig with pouches you can fit stick mags in them. Can't do that with drums.

http://www.amazon.com/N-Strike-Elite-18-Dart-Quick-Reload/dp/B0083TXZCA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398767167&sr=8-1&keywords=18+dart+nerf+mag

u/voyanex · 5 pointsr/Nerf

I'll take a Hammershot too. Free shipping (with Prime), capacity for an extra dart, and easy to mod too. Here's a link

u/SocksofGranduer · 7 pointsr/Nerf

Haha. You mean voberry :P

Every time someone says 'vodberry' I think "... and the snazberries taste like snazberries!"

u/SearingPhoenix · 1 pointr/Nerf

Ooh, let us know how well this handles once you get it locked down.

I don't think it's quite as slim as something like an AK Chest Rig But it looks like if you could get two on your hips, or 1-2 on some sort of backpack rig it could be a worthwhile addition.

u/roguellama_420 · 5 pointsr/Nerf

For $30, you can buy some pretty good options for one, but not for two. You’d be limited to something like two Strongarms . If you can go up to $40, you can get two Superdrums .

u/Virisenox_ · 2 pointsr/Nerf

Strongarm, Disruptor, or Hammershot: Great cheap pistols. Not great for modding though.
Retaliator: A basic mag-fed rifle with that's been modded by a lot of people.
Stryfe: Semi-auto battery powered mag fed flywheel blaster. Not great stock, but it has a huge modding community.
Stratohawk: Full auto flywheel blaster. Comes with a 25 round drum. Very usable out of the box.

u/Maniacal_Coyote · -1 pointsr/Nerf

Get a pair of Stryfes. They're good, cheap, and easy for any rug rat to use. They don't even have to worry about which way they load the darts in!

u/WhoKnowsWho2 · 1 pointr/Nerf

They are a generic elite dart from China.

I haven't seen any undersized reports from them. But there are mislabeled ones that have hard rubber tips. And the glue can leave something to be desired like Koosh.

u/ChiefNerf · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Where are you located? You can amazon prime ekind waffle head darts in the US or ray squad. You should also be able to get the green adventure force waffle heads for around 10$ for 200 at Walmart.

Amazon Ekind Waffle

Adventure Force Walmart

u/daggazine · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Ekind has 2 different style darts. One of the styles is basically an elite dart and the other are "waffle" tipped
https://www.amazon.com/EKIND-Design-Waffles-N-strike-AccuStrike/dp/B01M3Z0XZ4#

The waffle darts seem to be popular right now.

u/SimpleNerf · 3 pointsr/Nerf

A lot of people have recently taken a liking to the [NcStar AK Chest Rig.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E98Z4K/ref=twister_B005OIBYQM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) It holds up to 6 mags, and the cheapest I've seen it is around 16$ new on eBay.

u/CommanderCooper · 0 pointsr/Nerf

https://www.amazon.com/Nerf-N-Strike-Stryfe-Blaster-Colors/dp/B009T45XNM

Who's selling it, then? I was under the impression that Amazon had to be directly involved for it to be eligible for Prime shipping.

u/majikmonkie · 1 pointr/Nerf

> I haven't been able to find it in any stores here in Canada.

Clearly you didn't read that fully, or don't understand the difference between shopping and currency in the US and Canada... We typically have a more limited selection of things, and not everyone ships here, and when they do we pay more taxes and import fees to get it across the border.

The only two offered through Amazon.ca (Canadian site) are: $59.96 CAD and $54.00 CAD before taxes (13%), and neither can deliver before Christmas.

The only one through Amazon.com (US site) who ships to Canada is this one, and after shipping and import fees to get here in time for Christmas it will be $45.85 USD, or $63.24 CAD. Even with regular 8-16 day shipping it's $27.59 USD ($38.05 CAD) and that won't be here until well after the new year.

u/jjb224 · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Alot of people have been using this lately it fits 12 round clips and 18 round clips the side pockets can fit anyside arm up to a cycloneshock.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005E98Z4K/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469887123&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

u/Backfjre · 1 pointr/Nerf

If you decide Voberry then these Voberry darts are what I bought and they're pretty solid.

The big 2 to look into are Voberry and Koosh.
It's tough finding info because a lot of things are actually outdated, so I'll try to give a quick summary.

Koosh has 2 specific sellers to use on eBay, BeautifulWomen2012 and Yutoys. BW2012 had issues with tips falling off, but recently acknowledged the issue and made improvements with "Improved Adhesive" listings. Yutoys often had less issues with tips falling off, but still some problems. With Koosh, the difference between these 2 buyers is small, and if you don't mind regluing tips they're a solid choice. Koosh originally had issues in springers but other posters here claim that's also a thing of the past. As far as I know, Koosh is more accurate and consistent than standard elite.

Voberry you can find on Amazon, and I recommend only buying from the Voberry market connected to that link. There are a few different sellers (JLTech1 and CXB1983 I've purchased from) but I've noticed no difference between them. Voberry has no manufacturing issues, but I noticed a slight drop in range in flywheels. These darts are the same accuracy as standard elites.

u/Mistr_MADness · 9 pointsr/Nerf

> Would this be a good first Nerf gun? is it powerful? and is it accurate?

I mean, it hits the standard 60/70 fps, nothing special. It's about as accurate as any other Nerf blaster, which isn't saying much. The 'custom stock' kinda sucks, I recommend you get one of these instead. If you really want to get one, go ahead, but you should really just get the blaster without any Nerf accesories and buy aftermarket accessories.

u/lordcanyon1 · 3 pointsr/Nerf

This is what someone suggested and i believe i'll buy it later.
(sorry seems your UK, maybe you can find similar.)

u/DFSniper · 2 pointsr/Nerf
u/Limited_Infinities · 5 pointsr/Nerf

[These] (www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M3Z0XZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497980241&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ekind+waffle+darts+200&dpPl=1&dpID=51iiZ1k%2Bk8L&ref=plSrch) are just as accurate and have more range and initial velocity.

u/hacktek · 1 pointr/Nerf

Tested some more and headshot ammo is just awful. Even sticking the finger into the magazine the balls just simply get stuck coming back up. It does look like they're just too big for the tube so they don't come out smoothly and I swear to god that over 50% squish/jam/get stuck coming out the barrel. I'll test them out in a Helios that's coming in the mail soon but this is so frustrating that this blaster is basically unusable with these. This is the bag I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Rounds-Rival-Compatible-Ammo-HeadShot/dp/B01G9S33GY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518658845&sr=8-2&keywords=headshot+ammo

u/ZeroBladeNL · 1 pointr/Nerf

Had to look for a bit, but this is them

https://www.amazon.com/EKIND-Waffles-compatible-N-strike-AccuStrike/dp/B01M3Z0XZ4

Box says bio degradable on the side, but since I didn't buy em, I have no more info than that