Best products from r/OLED

Listen, the Yamaha 3 series is the absolute best value out there! For just $280 on sale, it’s ridiculous how much you get for your money as long as you don’t need more than 5.1! It has a great DAC (same used in the more expensive ones) and sound quality. Really crisp, clear, dynamic sound. Of course they skimp on Atmos/DTS:X but with a 5.1 setup Atmos won’t really make a big difference. Personally I think unless you can hook up 4 speakers to the ceiling you just won’t get a lot out of Atmos. Bouncing off the ceiling isn’t the same as actually being physically above you.

The other difference is the lack of banana plugs for the center and rear speakers although the current 385 now has them for all 5 speakers! So the 3XX is going to get even better from now on. This makes hooking up thicker gauge speaker wire a challenge but not impossible. I had a 367 in the past. Right now I have the RX-V483 paired with matched Polk Signatures. S35 center and S15s for both the front and surrounds. Like the Yamaha amp these are an amazing value. The center especially punches well above it weight.

Sometimes turning off HDMI Control and ARC on the receiver and turning off HDMI-CEC/Simplink on the LG and then turning them back on can fix issues. ARC is very finicky.

For example my 483 auto detected and labeled my Xbox One X and Spectrum DVR yet it didn’t do this for my OG PS4 nor Apple TV 4 (non-4K).

But again, if you can’t get ARC to deliver 5.1 without having to switch back and forth, order a quality Toslink cable like this and give it a shot. It should go from your TV to AV1 on the Yamaha. The sound quality for Netflix, YouTube, Amazon, Vudu and other apps will be nearly identical. I believe Toslink can handle up to 3 Mbit/s. It certainly handles regular full DTS 5.1 which is 1.5 Mbps which is much higher than DD+’s 640 kbps.

I’ve used this one in the past. Gold plated connectors and just top quality overall. Much better than the cheaper cables. Right now just $8:

https://www.amazon.com/d/Fiber-Optic-Cables/KabelDirekt-Optical-Digital-Theater-Playstation/B00DI89VOM

You have 30 days to return it. I would try it out. If ARC stops acting up just send it back. Otherwise optical will always work 100% and this would just be for the internal streaming apps and built-in MKV player (photo & video).

If you haven’t tried yet, the LG players plays nearly everything you throw at it! I have dozens of 15-40 GB HEVC 4K Blu-ray HDR rips and they all playback flawlessly off of a cheap WD Passport 2 TB 5400 rpm drive. Unfortunately UHD rips don’t have Dolby Vision metadata but HDR10 with LG’s excellent dynamic tone mapping is good enough.

I decided to pull the trigger on the 1080, it was $398 at the time. Perhaps I should have done some more research, I didn’t read anything about 5.1 not being fully supported (which... is concerning). I went to go wire my existing 5.1 Cerwin Vegas that I’ve probably had for 15 years now. They sound fantastic (maybe I don’t know what I’m missing), but I’m not in a house on a street with three houses and the one next door empty any more, where I used to be able to crank up the volume to serious levels and not bother anyone, so I don’t really see the need to replace them anytime soon. I mean, they’re BIG beefy speakers. Anyway, I bring it up because I went to use the existing wires and trying to install them into the back of the 1080 with only a couple inches of room to maneuver the cables without uprooting everything? Fucking nightmare. Ordered some banana plugs and highly suggest that you do the same if you buy it, the wiring is just too close together to try without getting pissed off.

• I just picked up a pair of Sony Dolby Atmos enabled speakers that were on sale for 50% off for Cyber Monday (so I paid $98 — Bought from B+H because Amazon’s stock was backed up until possibly January, same price, no tax, free shipping). They’re the speakers specifically designed for this receiver, that sit on top of your front channels (or other speakers, I guess) and fire upwards at the ceiling and back down, but you can mount them for height if you prefer. I haven’t hooked up any of it yet. I hadn’t planned to do this, but figured that I might as well take advantage of Dolby Atmos now that I can and while I was already re-wiring everything else.
  
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  There are a lot of nice streaming and casting features on the receiver for sure, that should make it easier for your family to be able to use their devices. I also like the idea of being able to connect some headphones via bluetooth... or a Woojer Ryg — I bought the Woojer Strap for $130 a while back and ended up backing the kickstarter for the Ryg). It’s a haptic feedback vest that has 8 rumble locations and can connect to 7.1 and basically have you feel an explosion off to your left side differently than a gunshot to the upper back or stomach. Connecting it via bluetooth will just have it fire 4L/4R, but that’ll be cool for simplicity/no wires/VR.
  
  
• You can try the Strap for 30 days (and I intended to just do that and send it back, but ended up deciding to keep it by the first day). It only has 2 rumble locations, but packs a pretty good kick. I use it for action movies/event TV/games. I’ve sort of gone from having a house I can blast my loud system, to recognizing the value in haptic devices where you can FEEL the impact and bass without adding volume (which is great for my current living situation). And having both sound + haptic is fantastic, whether I’m just using headphones or the full system.
  
  Anyway, I’ll try to give you an update after a while of messing with the 1080 and then the 7.1 speakers if I remember. Fingers crossed that it’s as good as it looks.

Most people on a budget usually buy last year or older models, refurbished or new old stock versions of AVRs. You can look for discounts or sales for stock clearance for very cheap.

The AVR industry moves very slowly, and unless there are any new codecs or stuff launched, a 2016 AVR has the exact same capabilities as a 2019 model.

Like a 2017 Denon AVR-X1400h gets you 7.2 channels amp with Dolby Atmos support (5.1.2 setup), HEOS (wireless audio streaming), Bluetooth, Dolby Atmos and DTS:X decoding, Dolby Vision and HDR10 passthrough and 6 HDMI in ports. As for room correction it comes with "Audyssey Multeq XT", which is among the best room correction algorithms out there.

If you don't care about Dolby Vision passthrough you can even go older with the 2016 AVR-X1300W.

Last years 2018 AVR-X1500h goes for $300 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Receivers-Component-Receiver-AVRX1500/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S so I'd expect the older ones to be even cheaper if you can get your hands on them.

Ask more on /r/hometheater they will surely offer you very good links to great deals.

PS: Though remember that with an AVR you can't use powered speakers or soundbars, must be passive speakers only.

I’m in the same situation with an older receiver (hdmi 1.4) and a LG 4K Oled. The receiver supports TrueHD, DTS MA, etc so I wanted to extend its life.

I picked up a hdmi audio extractor from Amazon. The shield goes into the extractor, then it splits the video and audio with 2 hdmi outputs. It sends 4K HDR @ 60hz to the TV and bitstream audio to my receiver. It works very well, but occasionally has a handshake issue and I need to power cycle the extractor. Still worth it since it works very well otherwise. Also, make sure to use certified 18Gbps hdmi cables, I used monoprice cables (also on Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0755TB82Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_woxeBT1Oz9ZOR

Hope that helps!

This is the best mount for LG oleds by far. Extremely well built and very slim. Flits my C8 perfectly! Plus legit LG product. It was much cheaper when I bought it. I’m sure you can find a good deal if you look around.
LG slim mount

This stand has the ability to raise up the tv and is solidly constructed. After finding some YouTube videos about it took a chance. I like the look more than the original stand and height adjustments worked really nicely. I did set the distance before screwing the legs into the VESA holes.

Your sound bar would sit on the two feet though if that makes a difference for you.

There are cheaper versions on amazon, but I went with this one and it worked out perfectly for my need of height adjustments.

Atlantic Universal Adjustable Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1HXPVI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

from Amazon.com but the order is fulfilled by Beach Camera a 3rd authorize lg dealer. The Price is $3196.99 and I had a coupon for 15% off which brought the price down to $2719.99. I wasn't sure if I should order it and the coupon expired yesterday. Amazon wouldn't honor the coupon and told me to call up beach camera so that's what they did and they are happy to sell it for $2700 plus tax. Here is the link on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/LG-OLED65C9PUA-OLED65C9-Soundbar-Surround/dp/B07Q3WP133/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=lg+oled+c9&qid=1558401939&s=gateway&sr=8-4

ECHOGEAR Full Motion Articulating... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QX1ZMS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use this on my 77" C9. Things amazing, definitely recommend

I know it’s a little more $ than others but I was nervous in getting a cheaper mount for my first OLED.

I just got an LG 65 C9 OLED and just mounted it 2 days ago with this:
ECHOGEAR Full Motion Articulating TV Wall Mount Bracket for 42"-80" TVs - Easy to Install On 16", 18" or 24" Studs & Features Smooth Articulation, Swivel, Tilt - EGLF2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QX1ZMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DTnlDb6B5WNNN

Couldn’t be more happier.

For anyone who wants a calibrated SDR without paying for a professional calibration, I highly recommend Spears & Munsil.

Proper contrast, proper brightness, proper color with included blue filter, and it also has a nice AV sync calibration tool for audio delays.

You definitely need to be careful, or you'll end up with a mount that sticks out below your TV.

I haven't wall mounted yet, but I was directed at ECHOGEAR as being good, affordable, and LG OLED compatible.

Here's a link to one of their models on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SK56FV2

Not bad now look into a cable concealer and clean up those cables. Should be fairly cheap and it will look a lot nicer.

https://www.amazon.com/Raceway-Management-Channel-Paintable-Concealer/dp/B07GPFDL1K/

Did the same, I got this cable from amazon and ran it from the receiver to the C9. MonoPrice HDMI https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKK82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I needed another one to go from my ATV4k to my receiver. Went to menards and picked up a RCA 6 ft HDMI 4k rated to 18gbs. So far everything looks great.

I bought one of those moving boxes from amazon comes with a ton of foam and threw in a bunch more bubble wrap in between and it worked out great.

it was one of these

https://www.amazon.com/EcoBox-Box-UBlox-Foam-8449/dp/B01ENR62NY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=DABQ3YAR5OLH&keywords=flat+screen+moving+box+kit&qid=1563245140&s=gateway&sprefix=flat+screen+moving%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-3

I appreciate your creativity.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bluetooth+audio+adapter&qid=1570689047&sr=8-3

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So I'll plug my speakers into this via RCA and then connect to it on my TV via bluetooth. But will that let me control the volume level through the TV remote?

I also wanted a low profile mount and ended up getting this one, very satisfied with it


LG Electronics OTW420B EZ Slim Wall Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERYKLMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TNi7BbE6C6Q2N

I'm on the same boat with my c9. The link you listed looks exactly like the Monoprice one but for more. I was trying to decide between the monoprice and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGZRBQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , I opted for the Echogear since it was highly rated and adjustable after you mount it. I'm not sure if the C7 vesa holes are the same as the C9, but i've come to terms that the brackets will extend up on the C9 a bit, but since it's flush it will be hard to see (i hope). I heard about Vogel shortly after I ordered, but for $300+ seems a little steep for a mount (just so the brackets don't stick up in my case) and I also don't care for it to stick out or move around. I'm going for the clean flush look with some tilt capabilities.

would something like this work ?

https://www.amazon.ca/Green-Works-Glass-Surface-Cleaner/dp/B00A69SS3Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1538856562&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=glass+cleaner&psc=1

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https://www.amazon.ca/Windex-Original-Glass-Window-Cleaner/dp/B001ATDY8U/ref=sr_1_4?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1538856562&sr=1-4&keywords=glass+cleaner

I just ordered this one but anything should work. First link no tax free shipping.

It's made by LG specifically for your model OLED tv
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01ERYKLMQ/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Spears and Munsil is a very comprehensive calibration disc.

Suggest you get a good Ethernet cable to hook up to TV. And some of the following...

For hooking up external hard drives to TV:
UGREEN Micro USB 3.0 Cable USB 3.0 Type A Male to Micro B Cord for Samsung Galaxy S5, Note 3, Camera, Hard Drive and More 1.5ft Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0C4M3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XmB0BbWDV1P80

For sound bar/home theater receiver:
Cable Matters Gold Plated Toslink Digital Optical Audio Cable with Metal Connectors and Braided Jacket 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0099UWHH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xoB0BbRBVJDTY

For HDMI cables:
Monoprice 115429 Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, 4K @ 60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, 10ft, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKK82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4nB0BbPYT4BVJ

> Echogear's adjustable mount.

https://www.amazon.com/ECHOGEAR-Motion-Articulating-Mount-Bracket/dp/B073QX1ZMS

Anyone ever tried one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/EcoBox-Box-UBlox-Foam-8449/dp/B01ENR62NY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550121755&sr=8-5&keywords=tv+shipping+box#customerReviews

The questions section even has 3 answers saying it'd work with thin OLEDs.

So my whole installation process was the first diy project I ever did. If you knew me, you'd know if I can do it, you can do it.

Issues I had: studs closer than expected (and metal), tons of insulation I had to rip out, cable connecting.

Studs closer together - I think universal standard is 16" apart where these were like 8 or 9. So when you get the powerbridge soundbar unit, you will notice it's like 11 or 12" long. Fortunately the main plug area is relatively small and the rest is to hold slack for cables. If you have the space, I highly suggest utilizing the whole piece. I had to tuck cable into the wall vertically to make it work after sawing off a big chunk to get it to fit.

Insulation - not everyone will have this issue. My wall was packed with this stuff and when it came time to fish the cables through the wall, it was a pain in the ass. I kept thinking i got it all only to find myself hitting more of it.

Cable connecting - this part was relatively easy and the issue I had is basically the insulation.

Just make sure that your top outlet (behind tv), mid outlet (soundbar) and bottom outlet (power) are all aligned vertically or close to it so you're within the same two studs. Other than that, it's pretty easy.

I do want to give a tip that will save you a headache in the long run and this cannot be overstated: IF you plan on using Apple TV 4k, arguably the best box for 4k content, with your OLED TV and you plan to mount your tv, go to Amazon and get this cable Monoprice 115429 Certified... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKK82?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I know many people say HDMI cables are all the same. They're not. That logic applied to old HDMI cables. New ones are designed for 4k which requires a lot more bandwidth. Also when you run through the wall, you're bound to encounter interference.

We had a great HDMI cable but because it was old, the frequency would get distorted and the tv would flicker before going black. It's a known issue. If you Google it, you'll find many people with the issue.

At the time I installed, one cable proved to work but the largest one was 6ft. I needed 10ft. This cable came out shortly after. I read reviews and people who had same issue ordered this. We took tv off, fished the new cable down, plugged it all in, and we haven't had an issue since. I can't recommend this cable enough. It fucking sucks having to turn off Apple TV blind because of no picture and turning it off again. This would happen several times a day for weeks.