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In what way would selection bias apply? Honestly asking for clarification.


Eta: I wrote a novel. Just...a warning.

>Also, as a force free dog trainer with 12 years experience, what is your better suggestion? Do you have any methods, techniques, regimes, secrets and protocols to share?

I've had really good luck with a few things.

Firstly, having someone other than the standard walking person (so, usually me) switch in. This helps for a few reasons, it gives the owners a break so they can reduce their frustration level, it gives me a chance to assess the dog hands on and to start figuring out what methods I'll use, and it's a change in routine which gives you the opportunity to modify the rules when the dog is more receptive - she doesnt have a habit of pulling with me, so I'll have an easier time putting some base level work in than the owner will. (This is no shade on the owners at all, to be clear.)

Second step, with this dog I'd start in on the relaxation protocol at home. It really sounds like they've tried the "tired dog is a good dog" stuff, so sometimes you need to switch that up and teach the dog how to calm themselves. I've met a lot of really high energy drivey dogs who have absolutely no idea how to actually be calm. This works really well for them, and helps reduce the stress level while occupying their brain.

Third step would be the harness issue. It's not sustainable for anyone who walks a dog to come home sore and aching every time... especially since it's really likely the dog is feeling the same and its contributing to the issue. I'd try a better fitting harness, a rear clip type, or one with lots of places to clip in. (1, 2, 3)

Ok, into the real practical stuff. How would I personally address the pulling?

Ironically, I'd start by not going on walks for a few weeks. OP mentions the dog is stressed on walks, that anything other than pulling straight forward like a train causes the dog to show stress signs. So you need to start by reducing that stress. It takes TIME for those stress hormones to dissipate, and daily walks mean shes getting a fresh dose every time. Ideally the meds OP tried would have helped (Trying a different med would be another option - different meds work differently for each individual. One bad go doesnt mean it's not worth trying another!) but since they haven't...reduce the stress another way.

This doesnt mean you stop exercising the dog. Obviously that's not an option. But do it differently. Will the dog play fetch? Drive to a big feild outside of town and do that. Would the dog like agility? Take a fun class. Would the dog like swimming? Drive to a lake and try it out. Take the dog to a fenced area and play chase with them. If your dog likes dog parks and you're comfortable with the ones near you then do that. (I know dog parks are controversial basically everywhere, but they work well for some dogs. That's up to OP.)

If you have no options use a flirt pole in the backyard, for physical exercise.

But shake up what you're doing.

And then you address mental exercise, which is often overlooked (although it sounds like OP has probably tried some of this). Teach a new trick, ideally a silly one so it's fun bonding time rather than "super serious" training time. Use puzzle feeders, DIY ones if you're on a budget. Do a doggy scavenger hunt for toys or their dinner. Do a scent work class. Etc.

Take the focus away from leash walking entirely for a bit to give a reset. At least with the owner holding the leash.

Once you've got the dogs overall baseline of stress a bit lower you start from zero on leash walking.

By starting over in your basement with no leash. Just set the dog free in a big empty room (use what you've got - if that's your living room with furniture pushed back, whatever. Itll do.) Have treats, but dont direct the dog. Let them be distracted. Whenever pup comes near you use a marker (word or clicker, dealer's choice) and drop a treat. Then you move away.

Slowly amble around the room. No pattern, change directions. Whenever the dog moves to be near, mark and treat.

When the dog is obviously purposefully being near you start walking. Every step they take with you mark and reward. Stop before the dog is bored. Ideally, when they're still enjoying the game.

Do that for a week, use a toy to reward with tug or fetch if your dog will play. But keep it fun and light.

Then you do the usual, move through the steps of basic leash walking, still no leash though.

I'd also add in some silky leash practice, seperate from the leash walking practice. So she learns there is an option to pulling and that giving in to pressure, rather than leaning in (opposition reflex) is better.

So in all, itd be a big plan with lots of moving parts. I have had a lot of luck with dogs like this. Even if it's just a walking client who isnt interested in training, if I'm walking the dog 3-5 times a week (30 minute walks) I can usually see a serious improvement within a month.

Since I dont have any relationship with the dog initially I usually "cheat" and use hotdog, chicken, and "life rewards" like running, play, and the 300 peck method.

If the dog figures out that they can get to run a bit, or play chase, or tug if they walk nice for a few steps then I'm past the tough part. Sure, our first walks dont get very far, but since I use activity as part of the reward the dog is still getting exercise. I have not had much luck with the typical "stand still and wait them out" methods because of this - if I'm paid to walk the dog I'm not paid to stand still with the dog.

Lastly. And probably the bit people will roast me for. Some dogs hate standard walks. Whether that's because the dog find city noise stressful, is reactive to dogs or people, is anxious, etc. Some dogs just do better if you exercise them, mentally and physically, in other ways.

I've had a very small number of clients really see their dog blossom after cutting out normal walks.

Often these dogs do fine hiking, walking in nature outside of cities (where they're basically not going to meet other dogs or strangers), or just taking classes, running in fields, playing with flirt toys.

Its worth considering. If the point of "walking the dog" comes down to a benefit to the dog...but the dog isnt actually benefiting, then replacing the walk with other options can be the right answer.

Getting her to leave things you don't want hear near or don't want her eating: teach her "leave it:"

• Make sure you have two different types of treats. One type can be fairly boring to the dog, but the other type should be a high-value treat that he finds pretty delicious. You will also want to make sure that the treats are broken up into pea-sized pieces so it won’t take him too long to eat them.
  
• Put one type of treat in each hand. If you like to train with a clicker as your marker, you can also hold a clicker in the same hand that holds the high-value treat. Then, place both of your hands behind your back.
  
• Make a fist with the hand that is holding the treat of lower value and present your fist to your dog, letting him sniff.
  
• Say “leave it” when he finishes sniffing your fist. Make sure to say it only once.
  
• As soon as your dog is done sniffing, you can either click with the clicker or say “yes.” Then offer him the higher-value treat in your other hand.
  
• Repeat until your dog immediately stops sniffing your hand when you say “leave it.”
  
• When you say “leave it” and he stops sniffing right away, leash your dog and then toss a low-value treat outside of his reach.
  
• Wait until he stops sniffing and pulling toward the treat. As soon as he does, either say “yes” or click and then give him a high-value treat from your hand. Practice this exercise a number of times.
  
  The key with this is to work up to items/food that your dog will consider "high-reward," but you need to start with baby steps.
  
  >Openly begs for food and will not leave your side if you have some
  
  Literally force her out of the room. You might have to do it a hundred times, but eventually she will get the message. Do this for every single meal, any time you have food.
  
  >Gorges herself
  
  I don't understand how she's allowed to gorge herself? Keep her food in a place she cannot get to it by herself. If you mean that she's eating too fast, consider buying her one of these bowls. It will force her to eat slower.
  
  >Cannot go to the bathroom outside by herself
  
  You need to go outside with her on a leash every 3-4 hours. If you notice she's still having accidents, you need to go out with her more frequently. Tell her the command "do business" or "go potty" or whatever you'd like to name the command when she finally goes potty outside. Treat her and make it very exciting when she goes potty outside--this gives her a positive experience for going potty outside. Don't punish her for having accidents unless she is specifically marking (peeing only a little bit and not the full amount).
  
  >Tears apart the garbage
  
  Why is she allowed to get into the garbage can?
  
  > 9/10 times, she will not come if called
  
  You need to teach recall with her.
  

Books are a nice option that are generally pretty cheap overall, if not free.

What do you mean by very obedient? Do you plan on doing advanced training in the future? Like in dog sports? Do you want all the basics to just be SUPER DUPER SOLID in all locations? What kind of dog are you planning on?

If you're thinking about sports, I second the FDSA free ebook, but also suggest "Control Unleashed: The Puppy Program", and "The Focused Puppy". Both of these books' audiences are for the enthusiastic trainer who probably has a bit of experience training dogs. There will be a bit more training jargon and the like.

If you're more of a beginner, I really like "Perfect Puppy in 7 Days" or "The Puppy Primer". Then, I also highly suggest "Beyond the Backyard" as that really gets into the ways to get a dog that listens everywhere and not just when you've got a treat in the hand, or just in your house, etc. (Do note this book does assume you have taught the basics and instead goes into the proofing of behaviors in all environments, which is why I suggest that in addition to the puppy books)

As other posters said, start from scratch. Maybe buy a new crate.

Our dog was so bad that she chewed her way out of two different heavy duty plastic ones and would bend the wire ones to escape.

We tried just leaving her out but she destroyed a lot of our stuff and chewed up my rug :(

We bought a heavy duty metal one like linked below, put it in a different spot of the house and HOLY CRAP.

We dont know if it's the elevation, the fact that the cage is sturdier, or changing the location, but it completely changed her attitude on being crated. We put in a crate pad from Costco and give her 2 to 3 stuffed treats, and she settles right in and doesnt whine. If she's home alone with our roommate, she goes and lays in it.

With time, on days she had a lot of playtime and a long walk, we started leaving her out to run to the grocery store (we'd make like 6 to 7 stuffed treat toys and place them all in her crate but not close her in).

Now we're up to 4 to 5 hour blocks of time with only 2 stuffed toys and no issues and I'm feeling pretty confident that she is almost ready for a full work day.

We do close our window blinds while gone as occasionally the outside world makes her anxious and she's more likely to chew... but we've forgotten before and she's been ok.

SO THERE IS STILL HOPE. be patient!

I've also linked the toys that we bought several of and then stuff with treats from costco for our pup. They've lasted surprisingly well for her, though you can tell they've been well loved. I just bought a couple replacements this week

Crate
https://www.amazon.com/LUCKUP-Strong-Kennel-Playpen-Install/dp/B076ZFXYVG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=luckup+dog+crate&qid=1559270500&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Our fav toys, we buy large
https://www.amazon.com/West-Paw-Interactive-Dispensing-Guaranteed/dp/B01N29SD5A/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=west+paw+dog+toys&qid=1559270539&s=gateway&sprefix=west+paw+&sr=8-5

Ugh, we tried a martingale without a buckle and it was the worst! (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YICDOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DTN3BbXR8ZJCK)[This] one has held up really well and was pretty inexpensive. I don't think we could have taught Wendy without it because she could so easily slip out of any flat collar and we had to search forever to find a harness that fit her.

I'm no dog trainer by any means (Wendy is my first dog and the farthest I've taken her is passing her cgc test), but I've found that the fastest and least painful way for her to learn is by being really clear on what I want her to do when in a specific situation or when I give a specific command. So when we walk, I generally let her sniff where she wants as long as she's not pulling me. If I notice she's going too fast and will hit the end of her leash, I try calling her to me. If she comes, treat and continue walking. That's what I try to focus on. The negative marker word/stopping is a worst-case scenario that I try to avoid. So walks with her have actually really strengthened her recall as well as her LLW. I also have a command for her to be in a loose/informal heel if I need her to walk by something distracting or I'm in a hurry and need her to keep up with me.

Of course, the downside to that method is that the human has to be really aware and vigilant about where the dog is in relation to them all the time. I'm totally accustomed to having my attention on Wendy all the time because of her leash reactivity (I taught her an auto-sit when we see dogs coming, which took quite a while lol), but I know it can be hard for some people if they listen to music/podcasts/audiobooks on walks.

Good luck whatever you choose to do! :)

I have used an E collar on my golden since he was 7 months old,he is now 16 months.I have had wonderful success with it particularly in his recall.Commands have to be given first,and if there is no response than he gets the "tone" button..generally that works..if it doesnt then he will get a very mild correction and lots of praise when he responds to the command

You can do it by yourself,just make sure to command and praise praise when the command is followed.We use our collar in all areas including off leash,which he is all the time in our backyard.

We use it for such commands as "here" and "leave it' and "drop it" etc.its handy when in the bush and we dont want Fergus rolling in dead things.

Dont spend $$$$ on something when they basically all do the same thing.I use the Petsafe Big Dog remote trainer and it works just fine,it has a 1000 yard range.You can buy it on Amazon.http://www.amazon.com/Petsafe-PDT00-13625-Elite-Remote-Trainer/dp/B007MME0ZK/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1412255606&sr=1-4&keywords=pet+safe

When we introduced the collar to our dog,we put it on and praised him..Then we took him out to the backyard and played with him a bit and gave him a recall command..when he didn't respond immediately ,we pressed the tone button and waited..still no respond and he got a mild correction.He wasnt sure what to make of it at first,but he shook his head and ran over to us and got tons of praise for it.Rarely now do we have to use the correction button as the command itself is enough for him to respond.

If you need more info,just ask

> Ever since then I have been spraying him with a squirt bottle filled with water when he has something in his mouth he shouldn't have, and he lets it go, but I still feel it's not good behavior.

Teach him "drop it." It's a very basic and easy to train command. There are videos on youtube to help you learn how to teach it. Kikopup has a good one.

You do not need to spray your dog with water to get things out of his mouth -- that's how you get him to guard things from you. He will start to be afraid of you. Don't train with fear!

Also play the trade up game. This will teach your dog that when he gives something up, you will give him something even better. Win/win. In time he will begin to offer things to you willingly. Practice this every day.

I would recommend picking up a copy of Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs. It's a fantastic little book that will tell you exactly how to train this away.

> When he bites us I say bad and put him in his crate for a half hour

Sounds like a lack of bite inhibition more than anything. Check out the /r/puppy101 wiki page for articles on how to train a dog to bite softer, and eventually not at all. It takes a few months of consistent training but it will go away.

There's not really too much variety, but I can recommend Herm Sprenger as a reliable, quality brand. One feature to seek out in whatever you choose: in the link below, you'll see that there's a plate right in the middle of the collar. This serves to reverse the direction of the prongs so you get an even distribution of the pressure around the neck. It just works a bit better than the original style with all the links in the same direction. If you need to add or remove links to get the right fit, try to have more or less the same number on either side of the plate.

They also make a quick-release style that has a clip in the chain part so you don't have to undo a link to take it off. I use that type, but it's more convenience than function.

Here's a good collar for your reference:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006L0UGC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482773092&sr=8-4&keywords=herm+sprenger+prong+collar+quick+release

Keeper collar, my friend.

I was also instilled on doing 100% positive only until my puppy gave me a good dose of reality. The R+ people tend to have soft dog breeds. They have never had to deal with a dog like the one you adopted either.

There are a lot of issues written here. Your dog is not a human, but you are projecting an awful lot of human emotions and logic onto him. He doesn't KNOW he was the runt or is different than other dogs, and he's certainly not dwelling on this feeling sorry for himself or thinking of himself as weak or disabled, but you are. Think of a child that has to use braces to walk or something; does that still make it okay for that child to be a spoiled brat and hit their mother? NO. That's effectively what your dog is doing. Even if he's "disabled" he still needs the same exact rules and boundaries that other dogs have to be happy and healthy. He certainly doesn't see himself as disabled, so you shouldn't either, and it should NOT be an excuse for inexcusable behavior, which biting, (ask ANY trainer) absolutely is.

You can be a leader/parental figure to your dog without intimidating them. Read this text by "Positive Trainer" Patricia McConnell on how to be that leader without any intimidation tactics to help your dog learn to respect you 100%; I can tell you that while he might in some contexts as you say, it's not enough if he thinks biting you in ANY context is acceptable.

You said your dog is less than a year old. I can guarantee you this biting is going to bleed into other areas of your relationship and VERY quickly if you don't get a handle on it immediately. If you don't want to try more aversive methods yourself (compressed air might be another to try, btw, if the squirt bottle isn't cutting it), then I'd contact a trainer immediately rather than spend time asking people on the internet, especially if you don't like the trend of what they have to say. Just know that it is dangerous, and it will absolutely get worse and ultimately COULD lead to the death of your dog; if you have to give him up because he becomes unmanageable, his "disability" likely will impact him further and prevent him from being adoptable.

> I'd implement a tool to make subtle movements more effective on the dog, such as a prong collar[...]

That's a great way to go. If you don't want to use a metal prong collar just yet, try a Starmark plastic prong collar. Make sure you use a backup collar with it (use the one that's included or you can just combine it with a flat collar).

If your dog plants itself down and lays down refusing to move, you can try sticking your foot (gently) under it's gut to get it to pop up and start moving.

Lastly, check out K9-1's leash ninja video for proper leash handling techniques, along with some gentle but effective corrections to apply once you have a proper training collar on the dog.

I have just follwed what Michael Ellis and the guy from Dog Training by K9-1.com in youtube, say. I've bought some Michael Ellis's DVD from leerburg.com, not cheap but kind of worth it, I've watched them like 10 times each. The other guy from K9-1, his approach and philosophy is spot on, plus he recently uploaded a bunch of videos due to all the misinformation going around about aggressive dogs, so he made them available for free,so there's a ton of them to look for tips and reference. K9-1 has an interesting video about another youtube dog trainer (Zack George) very interesting video.

I've been told that both of them are essentially this book with some added modifications, but that the basics are all in the book.


I just realized that both of this guys are in the "recomended videos" in the side bar.

Just wanted to throw in another trainer suggestion: Larry Krohn

He also has a book out that details how he uses and conditions the e-collar: Everything you need to know about E Collar Training

(I still highly suggest you have a trainer to help guide you in person. They can spot mistakes you're making that you're not aware of, they can help you make adjustments depending on how your dog is responding, etc. An e-collar is a great tool, but also one that is very easy to mess up if you don't know what you're doing.)

I also recommend Koehler's methods

The Koehler Method of Dog Training: Certified Techniques by Movieland's Most Experienced Dog Trainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/0876056575/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_G6S18aT6j8xe


this is the collar I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Herm-Sprenger-German-Prong-Collar/dp/B0006L2N2G/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1380138142&sr=8-8&keywords=herm+sprenger+prong+collar

These are the stair treads I went with but I think you can buy single pieces if you go to an actual hardware store:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SHBBZB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wanted multiple so that I could experiment with different boards/ amounts of grit area. Right now I have them attached to the box that my hvac air filters came in and it was actually a little too tall for her to comfortably do the first step of training without a slight incline. Your dog would likely have no problem with a little bit of height.

A good option for your big guy could be a single fence post from a hardware store. They usually go on sale at the end of summer and I buy them for making cheap shelves and raised garden beds. If you're just buying one the price isn't bad at all.

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Fence-pickets-Fencing-gates-Building-supplies/4294402517

There's a couple different methods for getting them to scratch if you look around. I also tried the one where you show them a treat and stick the tread over it so that they dig for it. Instead she started trying to bite the treads! Made my teeth hurt to see her try!