Best products from r/OpenPV

We found 51 comments on r/OpenPV discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 150 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

14. Anbes Soldering Iron Kit 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, Digital Multimeter, 2pcs Soldering Iron Tips, Desoldering Pump, Wire Stripper Cutter, Tweezers, Iron Stand, 2pcs Electronic Wire

    Features:
  • Soldering Iron with On/Off Switch - The adjustable temperature soldering iron can be rapidly heated in 30 seconds, featuring on/off switch and LED indicator makes it energy saving and ensure safe welding. Just turn it off if you done of using it. The insulating silica gel cover can effectively protect the iron from overheating or dropping.
  • Upgrade for Soldering Pump & Mustimeter - The soldering pump (solder Sucker) possess an aluminum bronze frame and a high pressure vacuum which can remove solder from the printed circuit board effectively. Easy-to-use digital mustimeter for measuring dais voltage, DC and AC current, resistance, transistors and continuity test. Measuring instrument with function of data hold and read on large LCD.
  • 15-In-1 Soldering Kit - Soldering kit comes with a soldering iron, disordering pump, 2 soldering tips, tin wire tube, soldering iron stand, Tweezers, wire Stripper Cutter, 2 electronic wire, digital mustimeter, 2 mustimeter pens, precision pocket screwdriver with 8 screws, and PU carry bag.
  • Heat Up Quickly and Heat Dissipation Efficiency - The 110V 60W soldering iron adopts patented ceramic-core induction technology, fast heats up, adjustable temperature with large venting holes, and a durable heating Element, and its steel-pipe design has better heat dissipation than others in this filed. Thermostat range of 392℉ to 842℉ (200℃-450℃), dissipates heat quickly – and cools down in a Flash.
  • Application - The soldering iron and the mustimeter has FCC and RoHS certification, contains no Toxic or polluting elements, can be applied on Dyer, various repaired usage of electronics and chip boards, welding, jewelry, guitar, watches, wiring, mobile device, computers hardware, Small electronic work, TV capacitors or accessories. The PU carry bag is rather convenient to store small tools.
Anbes Soldering Iron Kit 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, Digital Multimeter, 2pcs Soldering Iron Tips, Desoldering Pump, Wire Stripper Cutter, Tweezers, Iron Stand, 2pcs Electronic Wire
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Top comments mentioning products on r/OpenPV:

u/SilverBackGuerilla · 1 pointr/OpenPV

I use a cheap Chinese one off amazon . This one Its 60 watt with adjustable temp and came with a kit. Does the job and was cheap. You will also need some no clean solder flux paste and some solder. I wasn't sure if the solder the kit came with was lead free or not ( lead free isn't as good) so I bought my own solder at a hardware store. It's not the greatest set up but it's done me good so far. I am not the most experienced modder on here though. I have only built 2 boxes so far but both turned out well. Just to warn you its hella addictive. I have parts to make like 5 or 6 more boxes already. The hardest part is just getting everything to fit inside the enclosure nice and neatlty. The enclosures look roomy until your trimming down your wiring to finish up soldering. I would say start with something easier so you don't fuck up am expensive board but my first box was an intelligent PWM board and was glad I started on something a bit more technical. I'm finishing up a dual battery squonk with only a mosfet and it's a piece of cake now.

As for your DNA 200. I would have to research myself. I am a YiHi fan. I have 2 SX Mini G Classes so I have never looked into the price of boards. I will look around. So far I found a 200 for $56 on dripp3d.com

u/jared213 · 1 pointr/OpenPV

I used a LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply Output 1.23V-30V on my first one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHAOQO/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For me it works great, I like it better than my vamo v3 but someone suggested for my next build I use an okr. I don't really know much about them besides what I've gathered here.
Anyway I'm sure it's better but what are the benefits to the okr t10 compared with the buck converter.
BTW I'm planning on using 2 18350's and carving a wood box with sorta a pistol grip that fits in my hand really nicely.
Thanks

u/SynesthesiaBruh · 0 pointsr/OpenPV

No offense taken, I appreciate the suggestions :)

I understand that I need to understand the basic elements of electricity a but more, I'll do some more reading. I did not take into account amps, I thought amps were calculated from volts and the amount of resistance, like doing so from this website http://vapecalc.com. So from using that site, if I regulated my 2 batteries at 5volts, that would give me

Anyways, I'm currently using a single 18350 1500mAh 4.2-2.75v battery with my Atlantis, and I'm not getting clouds exactly, but good enough for my taste: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBTB16C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I assumed using two batteries would be fine. If I do decide to still go with the 16340 batteries, what is the minimum resistance you'd recommend? I'm liking the.5 resistance right now even though I'm not getting the most out of my atty with my current 16350 batteries, but I had the nautilus mini at 1.8ohm and had no issue with that as well.

EDIT: That was also just a sketch, first time using Sketchbook ever and first time using a drawing tablet in about a year lol.

Again, I'll do a bit more research, but if anyone has info on these questions I'm having, I would certainly appreciate it.

u/mintybeans · 2 pointsr/OpenPV

Seems as if you have all the parts you would need for a basic build. I'm still a bit new to this myself, so hopefully someone else will correct me if I'm off the mark.

I used the following parts:

  • (1) Hammond 1590G
  • (1) 3V Blue Lamp Metal 14mm Threaded Momentary Push Button Switch
  • (4) Neodymium Magnets 1/4" x 1/8" Disc
  • (8) Neodymium Magnets 1/8" x 1/8" Disc
  • (1) 18650 Flat Tip Battery Holder
  • (2) 6x6mm x 8.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Push Button
  • (1) .030" Thick, Clear Lexan - Polycarbonate
  • 20AWG Stranded Wire
  • (1) Varitube 510 Connector
  • (1) SX350 Chip (Pre-wired for up/down switches and USB From Varitube)

    I think that's it. I also have a few additional parts for the lighted push button, but you wont need those if you use a regular one. I can always post that info if you need it.

    Check the FAQ for tool recommendations for the basics you would need there.

    The SX350 allows for gravity changes (by tilting left/right) to control the wattage and uses it for menu navigation so the buttons are only there if you want more direct control.


    edit: If your SX350 does not have the buttons pre-wired there are pads for them on the chip you can wire your own. I believe there is a software update to enable them from Yihi. The one I got from Varitube was already set up for them.

    Normal momentary buttons are fine. I used something like This but any tactile switch should work fine.

    I have some of these on order as they look/feel a bit nicer then the basic plastic ones i have now.

    You might want some magnets for the faceplate. I got some 1/8"x1/8" and 1/4"x1/8" rare earth magnets off amazon and epoxied them in. Check the FAQ for some recommendations on glues and such.

    I would also recommend heat shrink tubing and some liquid electrical tape for the solder connections.

    Hope that helps.
u/kitten-the-cat · 1 pointr/OpenPV

That.... that is not the job of a simple mosfet. It's also beyond my abilities so i can't explain the design process to you either.

Let's consider the hypothetical situation. We have an irlb3034 with a Vgs of 10V, our power supply has infinate current capability with no drop, and everything is connected with lossless conductors.

So when our mosfet is turned on it will have a Rds(on) of 1.7mOhms. I = E / R, so I = 8.4 / 0.0017, I = 4941.18A. But a mosfet is merely a switch, the load is what you want to switch and that dictates the current sunk through a n-channel mosfet. With PWM you're switching it on an off quickly giving you an average voltage, but a lot of factors come into play (mosfet dynamic characteristics) and i don't have the time to explain that all out.

Switching supplies are entirely different animals though, inductors are involved, diodes as well, physics as well. That's all beyond my skill set when it comes to rolling my own SMPS from scratch.

There are some books on it, however they tend to assume you already know a lot or have a formal education in electroncs. That and it'd coost you probably about 400 dollars for two books on the subject if you were to buy them new instead of rent them or check em out from the library.

Sorry i couldn't be of more help. And yes Vgs of 4.5V > is for switching instead of amplifying.

You'd be looking for books such as:
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Electronics-Converters-Applications-Design/dp/0471226939/

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Electronics-Basics-Principles-Applications/dp/1482298791/

Along with a good background in general electronics and design.

u/david4500 · 1 pointr/OpenPV
u/rainbowunicornjake · 2 pointsr/OpenPV

It's not quite the USB route but Prehaps if you used a benchtop PSU, you could power just about any regulated mod you'd like to (they're expensive)

You could use something like this https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Adapter-Converter-100-240V-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B01GEA8PQA and then connect it to a ge raptor120 https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/naos-raptor-series/25339 and set the voltage to 4V with a pot. and then power any single cell regulated device you wanted, dna40/75. you could also use the raptor to directly power your vape without the board.

I realize that's not the most convenient or direct route, but you're not going to easily get a USB plug to give your 20V and than you still have to make that usable. The tried and true method would be a computer PSU and a dna200/250/c, but you're looking at spending a pretty penny. Same if you were to try to buy a bench top adjustable PSU

​

Another option is since you're not using much power, you could get a dna250/c or a dna75c and plug it into a regular usb port, the 2A (10W) charger should be able to keep up with you vaping on it.

​

I think part of the issue with using USB-C is; the cables arn't rated to handle vaping current, and the chargers are.. 'intelligent' assuming you got the charger to push out it's maximum voltage of 20V, you still have the issue of dropping that voltage to something usable by a vape. most of the common buck converters you'll find that meet the 30W power are either 6/12/24 volts.

u/advicevice · 1 pointr/OpenPV

I don't think I'm ready to do this yet. I was mostly feeling out demand with this post. I just got a part shipment, but I need them to build boxes for my customer.


You would probably be better off ordering your own parts because it's going to take me a while to figure this out.

I'd suggest this button btw, it has a really good feel. Some of the other ones you actually have to press into the body which I don't think is very comfortable.

u/THAT0NEASSHOLE · 2 pointsr/OpenPV

I really like this and might use an old PSU to rig up a desktop vape.

For anyone interested you can do this with a modular computer PSU and not worry about splicing 120v lines. This PSU is capable of 35 amps on its 12v line. All you need to turn it on and off is either a permanent jumper wire and use the PSU switch, or get a switch and use it as the jumper wire. Then to connect the mod to it is as easy as trimming one set of pci wires so you only have the 12v and gnd lines. Then the mod is quickly detachable and all lines have safe connectors. That PSU also has a 3 year warranty, no idea if the other one does too.

u/zichlone · 4 pointsr/OpenPV

Neither of those irons is temperature controlled. The best you're going to get out of either of those is guessing the temperature based on the voltage settings.

If you're willing to spend that much on a board I would highly recommend getting a better station such as the Hakko FX-888D.

u/bong-a-long · 1 pointr/OpenPV

Funny you mentioned AOYUE, i was literally looking at this when I got the notification for your comment. Any good? It says ESD safe

u/zackgrrr · 1 pointr/OpenPV

i just ordered a Hammond 1591BTBU there are also clear and red transparent enclosures.

They're the same sizes as the aluminum boxes but are transparent and look pretty badass when made into boxmods.

u/kDubya · 1 pointr/OpenPV

Iron

For solder I would just go to RadioShack and get the thinnest stuff they have.

Edit - it's probably all they'll have, but make sure you get rosin core. Lead free or leaded is up to you.

u/z3rocool · 1 pointr/OpenPV

don't buy a radioshack iron.

Grab something off amazon - they have some really cheap wellers which are probably the same price as radioshack but much better quality. (honestly if you plan on doing any of this stuff more than once, spend a little more and get a wlc100 http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395934640&sr=1-1&keywords=wlc100 I used one for a long time - it not the best, and if you look around there is probably something better and cheaper but I can personally vouch(hundreds of hours of use) for the wlc100 being a decent device.

u/murdurturtle · 2 pointsr/OpenPV

I bought this... works great. Heats up in like 30 seconds.

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle-cutter/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1397606411&sr=1-2&keywords=hakko+soldering+station

a used hakko 936 or weller soldering station will work. also any decent weller pencil solderer will work.

u/AngraMelo · 1 pointr/OpenPV

you can just use those guys here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E48ERU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are cheap and very effective. Just place a bit of the tape on top of the junction that you wish to desolder and heat it up with your soldering iron. The tape is made of copper so it will suck up all the old solder. Works for me!

u/blyind420 · 1 pointr/OpenPV

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HKIW3ZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i got one of these, same size as a 1590b but has some tabs on the inside that need ground down.
it says its red but unless you hold it up to a light it looks more like a burgundy

u/Browndustin · 1 pointr/OpenPV

In case anyone cares, I ordered this.

u/TheCoronersGambit · 1 pointr/OpenPV

Only $1 more (for now) and a better PSU.

EVGA 450 BT, 80+ Bronze 450W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-BT-0450-K1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3F8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1-vgAbT5EEJ6Q

u/Sphearion · 1 pointr/OpenPV

I have had this one for almost 2 years now. Does the job and does it well.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC

u/Starlitcoder2 · 1 pointr/OpenPV

I got some of this to try out. I wanted the syringe type instead of a tub and brush.

u/amdcursed · 3 pointsr/OpenPV

My Aoyue lasted about 5 months, it was covered under warranty but all they did was send me a replacement board that I need another iron to install. Spend the extra cash and get a Hakko: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420504863&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko

u/t0pa2 · 1 pointr/OpenPV

This is what I'm using, still working on my technique. The POS terminal on the sled has 4 wires soldered to it, so it doesnt look so good :P

P.S. It also doesn't help I stayed up all night building this.