(Part 2) Best products from r/Pets

FEEDING

>Every time I've fed him, he's thrown up.

How long has this been going on? If it has happened for more than a couple days you REALLY need to get to the bottom of this. A vet check would be prudent to rule out worms or any other gastric issues. What food are you feeding? How much? How often?

Puppies should be getting 3 meals a day. Free feeding should be avoided. If your puppy is eating too quickly consider getting a puzzle toy, making him earn most of his food through training or hand feeding or getting a special feeder (you can also use a muffin tray as a cheap remedy)

Check out the food you are feeding on Dog Food Advisor. Then compare it to the 4 star and 5 star food lists.

WHEN you feed is also an important consideration. Wait at least 30-60 minutes to feed after heavy activity.


HOUSE TRAINING

>I've been making sure to punish him accordingly (push his nose into the pee/poo, yelling at him, and taking him outside)

You should NOT be doing this! You are not teaching him that going to the bathroom in the house is bad - you are ONLY teaching him that going to the bathroom IN FRONT OF YOU IS DANGEROUS. If he has an accident in the house it is YOUR fault for not being around to let him out or watching him closely enough. Push your own nose in it as you are the only one who is failing.

A puppy is a baby - at 12 weeks they can only hold it for a maximum of 3 hours when they are inactive and usually only 30mins-1hour when they are active. They need to be supervised AT ALL TIMES or left in a puppy safe area (but not for any longer than they can physically hold it).

You do not need any "homemade tech" - you just need to manage his environment more! Look into Crate Training, clean up pet messes immediately with an enzymatic cleaner, and get him on a schedule (which is sounds like you are sort of doing - but if he is still having accidents he may need to go out more frequently or you need to do a better part of watching him/being around on time). Rewarding him with a high value treat when he goes outside IS correct - but stop punishing him when he makes a mistake!

See: Errorless House Training, House Training a Puppy and ASPCA House Training your Dog (this one covers the 'why' behind the effectiveness or lack-there-of for certain 'old school' methods - like paper training and rubbing your dogs nose in waste).


BITING/CHEWING
> He does seem pretty obedient when I catch him trying to chew, as he will stop when I yell at him and he will leave it alone.

You are focusing waaay too much on punishment. Again, your dog is a baby - he does not KNOW that your flip flops are valuable to you. He just knows he is a puppy and he is teething and this weird piece of foam and plastic feels good to chew on. Yelling at him just makes you scary and dangerous and is not actually TEACHING him what he SHOULD be doing. Look for opportunities to teach, not to punish.

Pick up and store everything that you do not want your pup to chew on - this includes making sure shoes are put away, paper is out of reach and any other 'favorite' non-appropriate chews are stored in a drawer, closet or on a high shelf (this is basic puppy proofing). If there is a room with a lot of items you cannot store that he tends to chew on - block access to that room with gates or doors (or ensure he is on leash and closely supervised when in these areas).

If you catch him chewing on something he should not - use a positive interrupter and replace the object with something he SHOULD be chewing on. Play with him a bit with the new object and encourage him to seek these items out. Reward him with small treats whenever you catch him 'being good' (playing with appropriate toys instead of your shoes) and take breaks to play with him when you see him doing these things as often as you can. You want to teach him that playing with these objects is rewarding and gets him attention. Some dogs will seek out 'off limits' items just because it gets your attention so effectively. Try to ignore him or use a positive interrupter and redirect to a new object. Going into a different room, waiting a few seconds and calling the puppy to you is a good way to redirect him away from the object without giving him direct attention. NEVER chase a dog with an object in their mouth the should not have - that just makes it a game for them! Unless the object is immediately dangerous, try to convince them to drop it on their own and make a big deal about them choosing a better chew.

Make sure there are several toys that he enjoys chewing on available at all times. You may also want to use natural chews like Bully Sticks or Trachea to help encourage positive chewing habits. Things like ice cubes or damp, frozen rags are great chews for pups with sore mouths from teething.

CRATE TRAINING/SLEEPING

This is totally normal for puppies. They are alone for the first time in their lives and that is really scary to them!

A properly sized crate should be just big enough for puppy to stand, sit, lay down and turn around in. Any bigger and they have the opportunity to use a corner for a bathroom and sleep on the other side. The purpose of the smaller crate size is to discourage them from having accidents and to learn to hold their bladder.

That being said, remember a puppy of this age can only hold it for a few hours! You will likely need to take him out at least once in the night until he is old enough to hold it longer.

You need to ensure that NO attention is given to the puppy while he is in the crate and crying. This becomes a bit of a trick as you need to be SURE he isn't crying to go out to the bathroom. The general rule is:

• If the pup has been out in the last 30-60 minutes, ignore
  
• If the pup has NOT been out, take him DIRECTLY outside on leash, give him 5-10minutes to do his business. If he does, you can give him a small treat then RIGHT back inside in his crate to sleep. No pets, not excessive attention, no play time. Potty. Crate. That is all fussing gets.
  
• If the pup carries on for more than 10 minutes or so, it may be worth taking them outside (see bullet #2) to make sure they are 'empty'. Again, they have 5-10 minutes to go. If they do, treat, inside. If they dont? They go back in the crate. No treat.
  
• If you are 100% sure the pup does not need to go to the bathroom, you MUST absolutely ignore the pup. No yelling ("QUIET!" "SHUT UP!"), No hitting the crate, no eye contact, try not to walk by the crate, etc. Pretend like you absolutely cannot hear him. It is hard the first few nights, but if you are absolutely consistent, the behavior WILL stop.
  
• If he is quiet in his crate (and people are awake) give him some small treats and attention to reinforce that behavior.
  
  It can help if you have his crate in the same room while you sleep so he doesn't feel so alone. Blankets also help if he is being over stimulated by the environment.
  
  GENERAL
  
  Be sure the puppy is getting plenty of exercise, training and attention. If you are working 8 hours every single night and sleeping during the day - puppy can be left with a lot of 'free time' which can lead to behavior issues. Puppies DO sleep a lot, but they should be getting at least 30-60 minutes of activity every 2 hours or so (between naps) and (ideally) have a max of 8 hours 'quiet time' during traditional sleeping hours.
  
  Here is a list of resources I would strongly encourage you look at - in addition to getting him into a puppy kindergarten class:
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)

Obviously as others have said, don't do it. If she really is that disruptive to your life, rehoming her to someone who can manage the behaviour is a better option for everyone involved. Declawing creates more problems than what you have now, and to a more severe degree than the immediate surgery pain.

Aside from what other people have suggested and what you've already tried, you may need to change up her routine and the spaces she's given access to. If she's scratching up living room furniture, keep her in another room when you're not there to supervise.

I've found this to work on all the cats I've met so far, but instead of something like a spray bottle or even a sudden noise, tell her in her own language what she's doing isn't cool - if I catch a cat scratching up my rug or doing anything inappropriate, I let out a loud, sharp SSSSS sound. Cats I've never met (neighbourhood cats) before have responded to this in an instant. It doesn't generate the confusion of "that was loud, what was it?" or "something got me wet, what was it?", but it mimics their own vocabulary of STOP IT.

You'll have to find a toy or set of toys that can really engage her for many short spurts. Cats will usually play, then rest, then play more, and then rest. If you can get her panting after a few play sessions, you can know you've done a good job. Obviously do this right before bed. Jackson Galaxy's Da Bird has rave reviews, but I've also had great success with Cat Dancer and shoe laces. My cat loves chasing small, bouncy things that make a noise when they bounce off of things, so when dollar store wand toys break, I take the end cap and use them as a chase toy.

Once she's tired, feed her - but you don't have to feed her straight from a bowl or saucer. Make her work for it. Feed kibble? Toss each piece of kibble and make her chase it down piece by piece.

You know those dog foraging puzzles? Get some of those. Cats figure them out quickly, but they don't always have the best dexterity, so it eats up some time as they maneuver the pieces to get their food. I think the puzzle toys for cats are way too easy. There are lots on Amazon like the Trixie or Outward Hound line, and there are also Wobbler bobbing toys, slow feeders, and treat balls (I reinforce these with duct tape on the inside so there are little blockages that prevent food from easily rolling out at once - straight out of the box, they are just way too easy), but you can also just get three pieces of wood, a dowel, and some water bottles and create your own version of this toy but customize the difficulty by putting holes in different parts of the water bottles and keeping the caps on.

Also, hide kibble all over her appropriate play areas like towers and cat-friendly furniture. I do this every night all over my room in every cat-appropriate nook and cranny I can find, and by the time she's done hunting down all the pieces she smells and wants, she should be ready to turn in for a few hours. I actually make a bedtime mini meal of kibble foraging and I love knowing that during a time she would naturally be most active, my cat is pretty mellow until she sees me get up in the morning, or even later beyond that.

Also, if you haven't yet, try all textures, directions, shapes, and heights of different types of scratchers to see if she can find a preference over pieces of furniture, or rearrange to block those parts of the furniture away from her. You can also apply stuff like Sticky Paws double sided adhesive so it's uncomfortable where/when she tries to scratch.

And yes, definitely learn to clip her nails.

I think you made the right choice.

Cats hate moving. Even healthy cats. It's never going to be a fun experience, neither for your cat nor you. It'll get better. I'm not sure how much time has passed from your post, but if he's already exploring and looking out the window that's incredible progress if it's only been a day.

I moved my then four, now five year old cat I've raised from birth from my family home to a condo with my boyfriend in February. I left behind his sister who he has never lived without. She had no real attachment to me but is closely bonded to my dad, and him to her (if it weren't for his vote she wouldn'tve even lived with us, I was holding her for an owner who got cold feet). I figured I'd rather leave that bond for the both of them than gamble a move and hope she took to my boyfriend.

My cat used to be allowed outdoors until the last ~year, and it took forever to convince my dad to make that transition (now all the family cats are indoors, yay!). He's had to go through a lot of change, but I think it all benefited him and impacted him positively in the long run. His brother lives with my ex and is still an outdoor cat (and the family's admittedly poor) and he looks like a scrawny runt compared to my cat, when that cat had been the strongest of the litter and my cat was the runt!

Wrapping up my anecdote, I think you just need to make sure he has plenty of stimulation, especially outside of you being around. Whether you can slap a cheap bird feeder on your window or keep a fish tank (both awesome forms of "kitty TV"), or find a toy he's especially interested in that doesn't require a play partner (my cat is partial to straws, he hides them in my bed after he's "killed" them). Then just cuddle him and give him love when you can.

Cats are independent and not really naturally social animals, when it comes to intracat interaction it's more like an understanding and adaptation. They can get along great, but it takes work (and not just on our part!) I think my cat ultimately came out for the better because he seems...to not really get cat social cues, TBQH.

Later on, if it's financially feasible and you think he'd benefit from a playmate, I'd say rescue a kitten, especially if one just kind of organically drops into your life. But for now, he should be fine flyin' solo.

Look up toys that move around and you might try catnip toys at special times of the day as a treat. Here are some I have heard that cats enjoy (my cat just likes to steal my hair ties and throw them around the room... when she isn't flinging spiders at me anyway).

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Hot-Pursuit-Concealed-Motion/dp/B06WP7F8YC/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499637039&sr=1-9&keywords=cat++toy

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=cat++toy

You could also hide treats in places he frequents to encourage his hunting instinct. My cat also enjoys chasing the laser pointer but we only play with it once a day before treat time because she gets a little too excited. Some cats love to play with a laser but they never get the satisfaction of catching something so what we do is hide a treat and have her chase the laser around until finally landing her on the treat. Even though she knows where the treats are usually hidden by now, she still likes the game and waits. Just find what works best for your kitty :)

First thing you're gonna hear on this sub is get the boys checked by a vet. With cats urination issues are sometimes symptoms of very serious and sometimes fatal conditions. What you're also gonna wanna do is:

1. Make sure the litter box is frequently scooped (at least once a day). And the entire box should be emptied and refilled fresh at least every few weeks. The standard rule for the number of litter boxes required is the number of cats plus one. So in an ideal world they should have access to 3 litter boxes. If that's not gonna happen and they just have the one then it needs to be scooped VERY frequently. Try and position the litter box near a problem area. It can be moved once the problem has been resolved but it will make the retraining easier. You can add Litter Attract to the litter box and that will make it more tempting for them to use it.
   
   
2. Cats will pee in the same area. The spots they have peed in need to be cleaned with an enzymatic cleaner like Natures Miracle. Nothing else will work. Even if it looks clean and smells clean to you, the cats will still smell it.
   
   
3. If the cats are causing a ruckus at night then they need to be played with more. Get some interactive toys like the wands and play with them until they pant. A tired cat is a good cat.
   
   
4. Many people on this sub recommend and use feline pheromone spray/diffusers/collars. Feliway is the top brand. It can help problem cats calm down and be more comfortable.
   
   I'd also recommend you or your parents watch some videos on youtube by Jackson Galaxy aka the Cat Whisperer. This guy knows his stuff. Here's a few videos to get started:
   1
   2
   3

• For future reference: for each cat you have, make sure to have +1 litter box for the total amount of cats you have. For instance, you have one right now? Try to have 2 if you have the space for it.
  
  
• Doggy bags have been great for us when cleaning our cat's litter contents (lol), but we also invested in a litter genie which is honestly the best purchase. This litter deodorizer comes at a close second.
  
  
• The Furminator is great for brushing, but some cats don't like it. Mine likes the Kong Brush, but we also tested out grooming mitts and fine tooth combs too. It completely depends on your little one.
  
  
• I've seen a few comments on r/pets about Blue Buffalo dry food being tied to more urine crystals, but I generally try to limit how much dry food I give my cat since she doesn't tend to go to her drinking fountain as often as we'd like.
  
  
• If you haven't already got a cat tree/scratchpost/tower, check out your local Marshalls or TJ Maxx. They have really great options and for much cheaper than some pet stores and they're usually assembled.
  
  

This approach may take some time, but my cat eventually learned that if I am in the bedroom with the light off and fan on (its an oscillating one that makes a fairly strong humming sound), I am down for the night and it'll be at least a few hours before I come back. After a few weeks of this routine, he gave up on screaming outside my door. The bedroom is off-limits to him at all times, as well. If I'm in there with the light on, he will meow at me, because he knows I'm likely to come back soon.

Mine's a door-rattler, too - he can fit his paw in the crack under the bedroom door and wrap it around the door. To protect the bottom of the door from his claws, I put some rubber weatherstripping on it. For the floor, consider getting a protective film to put down where she usually scratches. Hardware stores sell them to use during painting / construction, and many of them are affordable and tear-resistant.

It may be inconvenient, but do your best to cat-proof the house so you can ignore her acting out with minimal collateral damage. Keep anything fragile in drawers or cabinets unless you're actively using it. Consider making the bedroom a no-cat zone and putting as many valuables as possible in there. Don't leave food or drinks unattended - if you have to step away, stick them in the fridge or a cabinet while you're gone.

Also consider an electronic toy that moves around or something more interactive that will keep her engaged at night or while you're busy without the need for a human to facilitate playtime. Here are a few ideas::

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Feather-Whirl-Electronic-Motion/dp/B00KQGRIKI/

https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC

https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive-Petstages/dp/B00DT2WL26

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714D3FDT?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJ6XW

https://www.amazon.com/Hex-480-3030-Nano-Assorted-Styles/dp/B01B45AMIO/

Also, if she ignores the scratching post but loves to tear the crap out of your floor, she may prefer a horizontal scratcher. One wasted $30 scratching post later, I figured that out about my cat. Something like these would be worth a try:

https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-vary/dp/B000IYSAIW - doubles as a toy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YQ5KJM/ - this one is nice because you can lay it flat on the floor, prop it up at an angle with the cardboard flap, or hang it from a doorknob to see which works best. Also comes with catnip to sprinkle inside it. These have corrugated cardboard surfaces and don't last as long as carpet or sisal rope, but my cat seems more satisfied with something he can actually destroy. He'll jump on it, attack it with his claws, then roll around in the bits he tore off. You will vacuum a lot of cardboard flakes off the floor as it starts to wear out, but for me it's worth the trouble. If you don't like the mess, you can buy this one to test whether horizontal, inclined, or hung against the wall works best, then invest in a similar style of scratcher made from more durable material. That was my plan, but he just loves this stuff so much I order one as an add-on every month when I buy litter.

Here's advice from veterinary behaviorists Gary Landsberg, Wayne Hunthausen and Lowell Ackerman in Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat:
>To re-establish consistent use of the litterbox, the cat may need to be confined when it cannot be effectively supervised. When confined to a relatively small area, most cats will eliminate in the box if it is sufficiently appealing. Ideally the room should be big enough to do preference testing with at least two litters or boxes. Every attempt should be made to reduce anxiety associated with confinement by rewarding the cat each time it enters the room, and by providing perching, climbing, scratching, water, food, and play opportunities in the room. The family should be advised to remove the pet from the confinement area as much as possible for socialization and play, but never allow it out of sight. Keeping a journal of the cat’s elimination, eating, and sleeping schedule can allow owners an opportunity to begin releasing the cat at times when elimination is not “due.” This is particularly useful for stool soiling; for example, if a cat has a bowel movement once daily, it can be released from confinement each day after the litter is used.

>After several weeks without soiling, the owners can begin to release the cat with decreased supervision and for gradually longer periods of time. Before each release the owners should ensure that the litter has been used and is thoroughly cleaned. The cat should be returned to its litter area when it might be time to eliminate if it does not voluntarily return on its own. If the cat uses the litter it should be immediately rewarded; if the cat does not eliminate, the owners should continue to supervise and return the cat to its litterbox every 30–60 minutes. If unable to supervise the owner should confine the cat to its room and release it only after the litter is used again.

>Case Example

>History

>Digger, a 2.5-year-old male neutered Burmese, was presented with stool soiling which initially was found next to the litterbox in the laundry room, but had progressed to a Persian rug in the dining room. The initial soiling was associated with signs of colitis with mucoid stools and an increase in frequency to 2–3 times daily. After extensive workup, food intolerance was diagnosed and the cat had been controlled for several months with venison and green pea prescription diet. Although clinical signs of colitis were resolved, Digger continued to eliminate once daily, always on the Persian rug. All urine was in the litterbox.

>Diagnosis

>At a behavior consultation, Digger was diagnosed with inappropriate defecation initiated by colitis. However the soiling persisted in the dining room due to litterbox aversion and surface or location preferences.

>Treatment

>The owners were unable to block off the dining room effectively and Digger continued to eliminate on the spot, even when plastic sheeting was placed over the Persian rug. Despite offering a second litterbox near the dining room, different litter choices, and deeper litter, the soiling continued. The owners were advised to teach Digger to enter the laundry room for food rewards and to confine him to the room at night with litter, toys, water, and bedding. Since Digger already enjoyed sleeping on towels on top of the dryer, he adapted quickly to confinement. A new larger box with clumping unscented litter was provided and after 2 nights of defecating in front of the litterbox, Digger began to use the box consistently each night. Because he would only defecate once a day, he was allowed to roam the house throughout the day and was returned to the laundry room each night. After 3 weeks the owner began to leave the laundry room door open at night but continued to protect the Persian rug with plastic sheeting. After 4 more weeks the plastic was removed, the rug was professionally cleaned, and Digger’s soiling did not recur.

Bummer. Firstly, congrats on your new kitty bud! Have you taken him to the vet to make sure he doesn't have any health problems?

Secondly, it's definitely not too late to change his behavior, but you'll want to nip this in the bud. I assume you've washed your bedding - does it still smell like pee at all? It's very important that all of the smell is gone so that your cat doesn't smell his old pee and think, "this is the place to go!" I've had problems with my littlest cat peeing inappropriately and we had good luck removing all traces of urine by combining an enzymatic based cleaner with a peroxide based cleaner and soaking the items over night.

As far as getting him to use the litter box, you may want to purchase some cat attract litter. It's expensive though, so I've typically mixed it half and half with my regular litter.

This is the part you're probably not going to like. Have you considered putting an open topped litter box (with cat attract litter) in your bedroom? It probably wouldn't have to be a permanent addition - normally, once a cat has gotten comfortable using a particular box you can move it a few feet every few days until it's where you want it.

Something else to consider is that cats don't usually pee/poop where they eat, sleep, or hunt. You could try giving him treats on your bed, or bringing him to bed with you at night, or using a laser pointer to play with him on the bed.

Hope this helps! This can be a very frustrating situation but try to have patience!

I have a cat that gets crystals, that I have to constantly manage. However, to properly know how to manage it, you need to find out if your cat has struvite or calcium oxalate crystals. Mine has had struvites, which I think is a bit easier to manage.

A few things I've learned about struvites:

• Cats dont' naturally drink a lot of water - they are supposed to get most of their water from food. A running water system (like a fountain, mentioned by renspets) is great for encouraging drinking. However, you need to stop feeding dry food completely, and feed only canned food to really get the most water into your friend. (this goes for both types of crystals)
  
  
• They are primarily caused by too much magnesium. Your vet will probably put you on a special diet (with very low magnesium). However, this is all in all crappy food, and very expensive. What I've found that works is checking food labels (canned, not dry, remember?) and don't get anything with fish or seafood (which have very high levels of magnesium). I've also heard wellness brand has high mag levels, which I don't know for sure, but I do know most of their stuff has fish in it. If I feed only fish and seafood-free food, the cat is fine no crystals at all. Stupidly, one day several years after the first bought with crystals I thought I should give them more variety, and bought a bunch of different flavors, including fish stuff. Within a few months, she had crystals again. We returned for a few months to the prescription diet, then I weaned her off of it onto EVO canned food (no fish or seafood contents this time!) and she's been fine since. Moral of the story: You don't need the Rx food, as long as you feed canned food without magnesium (which largely comes from seafood ingredients).
  
  A great book to read about cat health (written by a vet that takes a more "whole cat" approach, looking largely at feed) is Your Cat. It really does a great job at dissecting the current state of feline diets, and the role they play in many feline illnesses. I HIGHLY recommend it.
  
  Good luck!
  

I work in the veterinary field and at my hospital we have strong opinions about cat carriers. The best, in my opinion, are the hard-sided ones that open both on the front and on the top. It's easy to get the cat in and out via the top door, it's roomy and stable (won't fall over or get crushed), and it's easy to clean if the pet urinates or defecates in it. I have this one (in addition to four others, some soft-sided) and am very happy with it. You can put a towel or blanket in it to make it comfier for the cat.

Edited to add that I'm also a fan of the last one you posted, mostly because the top is very easy to remove and put back on and it meets all the other criteria above for hard-sided carriers.

Get them to a vet for a checkup, and then yes get better food. But if they're overweight and have been on supermarket kibble they've likely got some health issues. Also, keeping something that smells like the grandmother around for them will help them transition into you and your hubby and dog moving into their home and her being gone. Feliway may also be a good idea to get as well.

​

And exercise them! I got this for my cats and they adore it: https://www.amazon.com/Petstages-Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive/dp/B00DT2WL26/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cat+ball+tower+toy&qid=1556837834&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

They play with it for a long time! And there's also a laser thing you can get that moves without you having to do anything but turn it on, that way if you don't have time to play, or aren't feeling well, they still get their exercise! Cats also love bubbles and they make Catnip bubbles!

​

Lastly, if you'd like I can knit you a toy for them and send it your way. Shouldn't cost me too much to ship. (I'm offering to send it for free) I make Pokeball cat toys, F-Bomb cat toys, and little knitted mice. While they're safe for cats, as with any toy with parts than can be possibly digested, I advise you to monitor the pet when they're playing with them. You can see what they look like here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/KleineMouskin

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If you want me to send you one for them, shoot me a pm!

2 days? perfectly normal for many cats. as others have already said, you have nothing to worry about. I'm just going to echo what others have said: let him have hidey holes, and make sure there are accessible perches that are even higher than you so kitty can watch everything when he decides to come out.

Maybe every once in a while lay down near his hole, and lay down some treats, maybe in a little line from right near the entrance to right up next to you. Close your eyes, take a little nap or something, let him explore in his own good time. Then get up and leave after a while (15 minutes or more) if he hasn't come to you. But don't stare at him or watch him during this time. Do that every few days just to see how close to you he's come in eating the treats.

also, regarding water, i STRONGLY recommend this water fountain. it's great, easy to clean, doesn't need to be cleaned often, and most cats love it. healthier to have moving water too.

My cat is some sort of world destroyer, too. I've had success with field hockey balls and ping pong balls. While the ping pong balls don't last quite as long, they are insanely cheap. I leave them propped on shelves and things all over the house for her to find, and she basically plays teeball with them.

this is pretty much the most awesome toy ever. You can configure different shapes for the track, and while she bites it and plays rough, it's really held up well. She goes absolutely positively insane for this thing. The ball inside moves fast, and there's a slight incline at each end that will send it back to her. It's awesome. We bought a second track with hills and made a really long one. It's awesome for my super energetic cat.

It's been 2 years, and you have been very patient! Only a bit more to go!

Dealing with cats is as much of a skill as drawing, for example. You can look at people who have been drawing for years and think "I keep seeing people working miracles with a pencil on paper and here I am, barely able to draw a straight line". But that's not constructive, anyone can learn to draw. Talent is a part of it, but only a small one. The rest is learning and practice.

I have been reading a ton on cat behavior over the past few years. The first cat I had (when I was 6) was really mean, he would scratch me and bite me, and barely let me pet him, and I didn't understand what was going on, and my parents made me give him away. I always wanted a cat though, and wanted to understand what happened. My current cat also came with some behavior issues, but surprisingly, all this learning paid off. He is the sweetest cat and I am clicker training him to sit and give kissies. I still have much to learn, and I am trying to share what I've learned with other people in the meanwhile.

I found Pam Johnson-Bennett's books to be great. I found "Think Like a Cat" in particular to really help me understand cats. I also found My Cat From Hell to be an interesting series, and it helps in seeing interaction directly, although be aware that Jackson Galaxy is not a certified behaviorist as far as I know, and he believes in homeopathic medicine woo, so take everything he says with a grain of salt.

Many cats develop behavioral problems, especially litter box issues, when exposed to stressful situations. Obviously the cats' owners need to step up and take responsibly for their pets. That being said, here are some things you can suggest:

• Ensure that their litter boxes are located a low traffic area and kept clean (scoop at least once a day).
  
  
• Ensure that the cats have enough litter boxes. The general rule of thumb is one box for each cat plus one extra.
  
  
• Provide a scratching post or scratching pad. The corrugated cardboard pads are cheap and cats love them.
  
  
• Provide toys for them to play with instead of shoes. (Note: they are then likely to play with the toys IN your shoes, so better to just put them away.)
  
  
• Clean anything that had cat pee on it with an enzyme cleaner such as Nature's Miracle. Even after you clean it up, the cats will still be able to smell it and may be more likely to pee there again. If you replace your mattress but then use the same sheets/comforter that they previously peed on, this could be a problem.
  
  
• Even if you are now keeping your bedroom door closed, I recommend that you get a waterproof mattress protector. You never know when a cat might sneak in there, and it could save you a lot of money. I have one of these on each bed in my house, and no one (not me, not my husband, nor any of our frequent guests) ever notice it.
  
  
• If the cats are bothering your allergies, I suggest trying Zyrtec (or its generic equivalent). It helps a lot of people with pet allergies (myself included).
  
  
  
  Good luck!
  
  Edited: forgot a )
  
  Edit #2: Just saw your username, and would now like to repeat my recommendation to buy a mattress protector.
  
  

The best way to prevent doggy messes is to immediately start crate training. Get your dog used to the crate, and over time you can slowly let your dog have a bit more freedom in the apartment. And if he's out for play or hanging out then you have to supervise him and hopefully distract him and take him outside if you see him about to start his business.

You can get an odor/stain remover and have that handy for accidents. As far as killing the carpet, you have to let them know that there are better, more fun alternatives.

Zak George's Dog Training youtube channel is a good place to start learning, imo. But honestly, I can't stress crate training enough. You have to teach the dog where it's okay to go.

Cats have a natural cycle that isn't often encouraged when they live indoors:

1. Hunt/Play
   
   
2. Eat
   
   
3. Groom
   
   
4. Sleep
   
   If you play with your kitty 10-30 minutes before you feed her at night (right before you go to bed), she's more likely to spend a good amount of time grooming and then settle down to sleep. This can help keep her from waking you up in the mornings.
   
   Every time you feed her before you're ready to get up, you're telling her that her actions give the desired response, and she should keep doing what she's doing.
   
   While the vacuum method can be effective, it can also be highly disruptive to everyone in the household and may cause anxiety and stress in your cat, causing her to act out in other ways.
   
   She will learn the hard way after your surgery that waking you up doesn't feed her, but you'll also need to make sure that you're not waking your sister up to feed her to get her to leave you alone. It may take an entire month for kitty to catch on.
   
   This book is excellent for learning cat behavior, and ways to deal with problems like yours.
   
   Good luck!

A window perch would be a good idea if she likes observing the outside world.

Also this one is a favorite of my two cats, I often find them playing with it and its by far their favorite toy, doesn't need an interaction from you. I actually bought all of its accessories (3 or 4 of them). http://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2.

Goodluck and good for you for caring about your cat's wellbeing and needs!

Please, please do not listen to the Petco person. Senior cat foods tend to advertise "reduced protein" formulas which means more carbohydrates (especially in dry foods) which you do NOT want for a cat, especially an older one that vomits often. The more carbohydrates and fillers, the more the cat has to eat to fill itself, the more vomiting and pooping and gut irritation, on top of a high possibility for diabetes, urinary issues, food allergies, and skin conditions. Cats throw up sometimes, but rarely. If a vet isn't concerned about this, that sounds like a red flag. How often is "a bit" for your cat?

I really recommend switching to a frozen raw diet as well. If that's not an option, then certainly switch to canned. No dry food whatsoever and especially do not free-feed. If you do more research into the topic (I highly recommend both http://www.catinfo.org/?link=makingcatfood and Dr. Elizabeth Hodgkins's book, http://www.amazon.com/Your-Cat-Simple-Secrets-Stronger/dp/0312358024) you'll get a better idea of why it is that cats need essentially a zero carbohydrate, all-meat moist food diet, and how improper high-carbohydrate diets are inappropriate for cats and lead to several serious medical issues (vomiting is just a symptom of other problems).

get some toys that move by them self, like these:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Bolt-Interactive-Laser-Cat/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=auto+cat+laser&qid=1550416273&s=gateway&sr=8-6

or

https://www.amazon.com/Zenes-Butterfly-Cat-Toy-Replacement/dp/B07B4XGY1Z/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=cat+butterfly+toy&qid=1550416295&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


also, continue giving the cat treats and petting her or kissing her once in a while so she knows that you still love her :)

Find where that cat pee smell is coming from—the sooner the better. Make sure to clean whatever it is with an enzymatic cleaner (I've had good luck with this). Otherwise, the scent can really set in, and it can be hard to get cats to stop peeing in a spot that smells like their bathroom.

Also: make sure you have enough litter boxes (maybe put an extra one near where she peed).

What about some toys that are like this? I use toys like these. They are prompted by the cat playing with it but are also encouraging them to keep playing by maintaining their interest.

I just moved seven hours with my two kitties and I was so stressed about it ahead of time. One kitty is extremely skittish and shy and BOTH are terrible with the car. I have to say I was absolutely shocked with how well it went, so here are the basics of what I did. I highly recommend talking to your vet for advice as well, as they will have good suggests based on your individual cat. Anyway, here goes...

A few months before our trip I took both kitties to the vet for check ups (they were overdue) and asked my vet for advice (one cat pooped on herself on the way there btw). He said seven hours without a litter box is totally fine and that the cats should travel in their regular carriers. I have this carrier and another similar one. He said after the first hour or so in the car to offer water and/or wet food to keep them hydrated, but to expect they might refuse. He also suggested prepping the cats by taking them for short car rides in advance. He did mention sedatives, but I too was skeptical and didn't plan to use them.

After the vet visit I kept both carriers out in our living room. I also gathered up a bunch of old towels and placed them around the house where the cats like to sleep so that they would smell like home. I put treats in the carriers every day or so and also started feeding them in there a few weeks before our move.

I wasn't sure if I should take the vet's advice to go for practice rides, as it seemed to me like it would add more stress. About a week before our move I had to pick my husband up from work, so I decided to pack up the cats to come with me for the 20 minute drive. I couldn't catch one at all, so I just brought the other. What a nightmare! He pooped, peed and vomited on the short drive. When we got home he was a total mess and was drooling and foaming at the mouth. Just the kind of confidence I needed before our seven hour trip. That's when I decided to go for sedatives.

I got the sedatives from the vet and did two test runs with my kitties , one at the lowest dose and one slightly higher, but not the max. It didn't really seem to do a whole lot, but I was nervous to give them the highest dose.

A couple days before the trip I lined their carriers with puppy pads and put in some of the old towels. This gave them a day or so to get used to the set up. Our movers came the day before our drive, so we kept the cats in our house and stayed in a hotel that night. They were pretty freaked out by the empty house, but I left some boxes and towels to make them more comfortable.

On the morning of our move, we went to the house about 90 minutes before we planned to leave, fed the cats their morning wet food, took away their dry food, and gave them the sedatives. Chasing them down for this was a bit tricky, but I just did it really quick.

After that, I cleaned the litter box in hopes that they would go before the trip (ever notice how cats get in the box RIGHT after you clean it?). This worked for one cat, but not the other.

The sedatives seemed to hit a little harder the day of the move and one cat was a total rag doll. I don't think they ate as much that morning since they were already stressed out.

Once they seemed a little loopy we packed them up and were on our way. One cat meowed constantly, but they were both a lot calmer than usual. He quieted down a bit after the first two hours or so, but would still meow off and on.

After we were on the road for about one-two hours we stopped to check on them. I planned not to open their carriers once we were on the road, so I put empty bowls in there and squirted water through the cage into the bowls. Neither were too interested in it. One was so drugged that when I accidentally squirted water in her face she didn't flinch. I also offered them wet food on tiny spoons through the cage. One ate, but the other didn't.

I'm proud to say that we arrived at our final destination in one piece and without any kitty bodily fluids being emitted. One had a slightly raw nose from pushing it against his carrier, but that was minor. He also had the holder from his bowl around his neck, which gave me quite a panic, but he was totally fine. PSA: Do not buy these bowls.

Oh! I almost totally forgot. I bought two Feliway diffusers and put one in our new home a few weeks before the move and one in our old home around the same time. I also purchased rescue remedy and put a few drops behind each kitty's ears before we left. I have no idea if these steps helped, but since the move was overall very smooth, I wouldn't discount them.

One kitty was pretty much at home in our new place right away, but the other took a few days. We didn't have our furniture for about five days, so they had to get creative with hiding places. Our girl cat shoved herself into a tiny cabinet in the bathroom.

Sorry this is so long. I hope I didn't forget anything. I was so stressed about moving my fur babies and it was totally fine. Hopefully you will be too! Let me know if you have any questions!

2 months old? And you are wondering how to "tame" him?! I rescue cats, mostly kittens and there is only one way to "tame" a rambunctious kitten-PLAY WITH HIM! Wear him out. He is a little body with all of this energy that he needs to get out...he is doing what every kitten does if someone doesn't play with them...he knocks over plants, he tears stuff up, he is a terror. Find some toys that are interactive for when you are not there but play with him twice a day for 15-20 minutes or more. I recommend a laser pointer for playtime with him. That wears a kitten out more than anything.

Use a spray bottle, squirt him when he does something you don't want him to do-BE CONSISTENT and don't let him see it come from you. You want him to think...gee, everytime I step on this table, water comes from somewhere and I don't like it. If he knows it comes from you, when you aren't there he will do it.

Here are some toys I like to use for these little guys.

http://www.amazon.com/FroliCat-BOLT-Interactive-Laser-Pet/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B000IYSAIW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3833-Peek---Prize-Pet/dp/B0006VMN4O/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-7
Only use this one under your supervision since he's so small...I have had a kitten get their head stuck and it took a vet to get her out after putting her under anesthetic and using a saw to cut her out.

http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Mouse-Powered-Toy/dp/B000633WZG/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270645&sr=8-23

http://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Crazy-Circle-Interactive-Large/dp/B0002AT5AO/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270658&sr=8-49

http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3832-Ultimate-Scratching-Post/dp/B000634MH8/ref=pd_sim_k_18


Also, do you realize that he will be this way for a few more months? Don't play with him using your hands (he will think they are toys and might bite you) and get him a scratching post. He is at the point, if he is two months old, that he can be neutered as well.

Good luck

Congratulations, your cat's an asshole. It's alright, behind every adorable furry face and set of whiskers lies an unbelievably horrid asshole who loves cuddles and playtimes and purrs and they're so freaking cute and wonderful. I got my kitties this water fountain and they can play with the water without tipping anything over because it's too heavy.

Siblings, yay! They'll already know each other which is helpful when transplanting each to a new environment.


I think this book is a helpful general guide for beginners. This one too though it has a stronger focus on wet food diets.

Truthfully, I've never used a litter attractant, I just know it's a thing that exists - the animal shelter I work at sells a small assortment of basic pet supplies, and litter attractant is one of the products we sell. I am pretty sure this is the one we sell. It's got a 4-star rating on Amazon and mostly positive reviews, although there's a vocal minority for whom the product didn't work. Seems like it would be worth a try, at least, and if it doesn't work, at least it's not terribly expensive, at $12 for 20 oz.

No worries, I'd be concerned too if it were my cat.

Cats like fresh, moving water. We got ours this water fountain and while she still splashes at it a bit she has yet to knock it over since it's pretty heavy. Before we bought the fountain I had her dish in a big shallow storage box so if she did spill the water it didn't spread out all over the floor. Or like the other suggestion: place a few bowls around the house.

We had the same issue and a combination of three things worked with us.

1. Enzyme Eliminator: http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K. I had success with Nature's Miracle as well.
   
   
   
2. S-Coe (the most amazing remove any odor eliminator in the entire world you can seriously bathe a skunk in this stuff!): http://www.scoe10x.com/
   
   
   
3. Scent Masker (this stuff is amazing, but get the Heavy Duty or the black label only): http://febreze.com/en-us/products/products-by-type/noticeables

We had the same problem, and ended up with 4 different cones. The best one was this - KONG EZ Soft E-Collar for Cats and Dogs, Extra-Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GEAQ3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jG8TAbGSADF78
Because it was soft it would bend and she wasn't able to get a good grip on it to pull it off. Also continue with the meds, hope it all works out!

Put down the lid. They have lids that close slowly and don't slam, makes it easier to do every time. I have a Catit fountain that all my cats have loved. Catit Design Senses Fountain with Water Softening Cartridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CO527IC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DRfSub13B6WJN

I'm a bit confused why you think I'm suggesting a litter box every few feet but OK, I get litter boxes and babies don't go together. I would suggest adding a second litter box next to the first one if you have room. Just to see if it helps.

Try this enzyme cleaner:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002XJ11E/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Dr elseys does have an additive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PKUUU0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1457157309&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=dr+elseys&dpPl=1&dpID=41jPhnsvrOL&ref=plSrch

I have not used that product, but I have used Cat Attract litter and it worked well. When we first took in our younger cat, she was a stray kitten with a bladder infection and was peeing everywhere. We used this litter to train her to the box and it was very helpful.

Here's a suggestion. Pretty much any enzymatic cleaner from a pet place should work though. A lot of regular cleaners contain ammonia, which only attracts them more. The enzymes "eat" the ammonia molecules so they aren't there anymore.

You should take the cat to the vet to rule out the possibility of a UTI. My cat did the same thing (due to stress) and we were also told to buy this to attract the cat to the litter box. I would also make sure to clean the litter box every day or even get a second one to put in another room.

If the plastic cone is adding to his agitation you might try a soft cone like this one. I just recently read about them in another post but they seem to be effective and less cumbersome.

If you can't keep him from moving around then perhaps he can be enticed to use pet steps instead of jumping? I got these for my senior cat and they were very sturdy. But if he's not in pain, and he's determined to jump around, he probably won't use them.

I'd try keeping him in the bathroom but put a big cardboard box on the sink so there's no space for him to jump onto. Counters or shelves could be filled with folded or rolled towels or blankets to block access.

I would certainly ask your vet first, but I always keep a bottle of Vetricyn around the house for when my kitties get into trouble and get cuts and bruises. It works well on small wounds animals get once in a while. I highly recommend it. It's like neosporin for animals.

I would also look into either tightening the cone or investing in a new type of cone. I own this soft KONG cone for my cat and she has not been able to pry it off, whereas some other cones I've owned she's been able to escape in the past.

Do you take him for a long walk at night?

This is a kong. You can fill it with peanut butter and some small treats, freeze it, and it will preoccupy your dog for hours

This is how I feed my dog her meals, she has to push it to get her kibble out, so it mentally stimulates her

Here are some other mentally stimulating toys we use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZTTSOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lcQAzbWNWKYBJ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FbQAzbTVZQGKH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014OAYVKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8cQAzb365KDN2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0RRTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HdQAzbMD3G61W

Do you have space for a cat tree? There's also boatloads of interactive toys that can be programmed or they can entertain themselves with like:
https://www.amazon.com/FroliCat-BOLT-Interactive-Laser-Pet/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480531055&sr=8-1&keywords=auto+cat+laser

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Loco-Motion-Automated-Activity/dp/B000N9W7HW/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480531069&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=auto+cato+toy

With 3 cats, I offer you should using some fountain capacity more than 70 oz.

Here is some best idea for your cats:

• PetSafe Drinkwell Multi-Tier Dog and Cat Water Fountain 100 oz - https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Multi-Tier-Fountain-Drinking/dp/B0056ASTES/
  
• PetSafe Drinkwell Platinum Cat and Dog Water Fountain with Carbon Filter, 168 oz - https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Platinum-Water-Fountain/dp/B000L3XYZ4/
  
  You can read full the article I just done here: https://pawsometalk.com/best-cat-water-fountains/
  
  ​

My next one will probably be this. I have been using the plastic version and the refillable charcoal filter for years and love it.

We tried the onesie, as well as a baby tshirt and they both rubbed the incision badly. Off we went to the vet, because the cone was a no go in the first place, and they had flexible fabric cones that moved with the pet. My girls both did well with this in the end, although, they did seem to forget how to walk for the first half hour. Lol! 😂

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GEAQ3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ivd0Ab86JP710

This is the one I use and my boy loves it.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Multi-Tier-Fountain-Automatic/dp/B0056ASTES/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_199_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8P3MZ606AR4HBP07001P

Get this: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Bolt-Interactive-Laser-Cat/dp/B0021L8W6K Either gift it to your roommate or get him to pay for it, but it should effectively keep your cat busy at a time for at least 20 mins.

Get this as well https://www.amazon.com/Whitelotous-Microfiber-Automatic-Electric-Cleaning/dp/B06X9MWMSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497565989&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+rolling+ball Find it on aliexpress or elsewhere on Amazon. Take it out of the fuzzy stuff and let it loose around the house.

Yup, that's probably what is happening. Get an enzymatic cleaner. Something like this.

We have this fountain for our two cats and have never had an issue with them dragging or spilling it, this may wprk for your cat? It's quite heavy and has different spouts which seem to interest our kitties too so they like drinking from it.

Have you tried several litters? This one might help. It has good reviews on amazon for troublesome kitties.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Attract-Problem-Training/dp/B0009X49IC

Dogit Mind Games 3-in-1 Interactive Smart Toy for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045DKZ6M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_UlRuyb1G87S7G

TRIXIE Pet Products Flip Board, Level 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_.mRuybDJAXKES

Company of Animals Nina Ottosson Dog Tornado Interactive Plastic Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KZ8FWE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DoRuyb1A4JKYH

We bought a litter additive for our cat in a similar situation. She's in a small room by herself with this in her litterbox and so far, so good.
Precious Cat Ultra Litter Attractant, 20 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PKUUU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WEs9ybK3EQ3ZH

I suggest this. I have a kitten who would go everywhere but the box. I almost had to return her to the shelter i got her from when they recommended this and it works.

FroliCat BOLT Interactive Laser Pet Toy

This gave me back some sanity.

https://www.chewy.com/dr-elseys-precious-cat-attract-cat/dp/32364?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=Dr.%20Elsey%27s&utm_term=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9begjoLP1QIVUyOBCh3Pdwx3EAQYASABEgKKMvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Litter-Attractant-Ounces/dp/B000PKUUU0/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000PKUUU0&pd_rd_r=QF6FZRV9XCSKEGZ1JNAW&pd_rd_w=IeBJM&pd_rd_wg=Q97vb&psc=1&refRID=QF6FZRV9XCSKEGZ1JNAW

What about a cat fountain?

This is the specific product I'm wondering about.

http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_z

She might have a UTI, and is associating the litter box with her pain. Take her to the vet for confirmation.

Clean the area with an enzyme cleaner. Add another litter box as /u/ajru222 suggested. You can also add a litter attractant.

If you really want to drive her crazy get her THIS

https://www.amazon.com/Petstages-Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive/dp/B00DT2WL26

Order this toy. It won't solve all your problems, but every single cat I've introduced to it, young and old, go absolutely crazy over it

Cats hate change. HATE it. The first thing you need to do is catch him and put him into a small room (bathroom closet, laundry room) with food, water, litter box and a bed. Cats can be easily overwhelmed and should never be let out into a new house at large. They have to be introduced slowly.

He's likely peeing on everything room stress and fear. Put him into a small room and it should stop.

As soon as you're settled, get him to a vet. (And please buy a regular carrier to transport him.) He needs to be neutered and checked for a urinary infection or crystals. Either of these can also cause a cat to pee everywhere. Intact males want to mark everything as their own. If he's got a urinary issue, that can also make him pee all over because he hurts.