(Part 3) Best products from r/PlantedTank

Fair warning, incoming essay haha

27 gallons is perfectly fine. The first thing you will want to read up on is the nitrogen cycle and fishless cycling. The best way to cycle your tank is to ask a local fish or pet store if they can give you some used filter media to jump start your cycle. If not, buy an API test kit and follow the steps in those guides then your tank will cycle in about a month.

For filters you have two main options Hang off the back (HOB) or canister. HOB are easy to maintain and clean which seems great as a beginner. They need to be cleaned every couple-few weeks. Aquaclear are great HOBs. For your size tank I would get an aquaclear 50 or two of the 20/30s (one for each side).

I prefer canister filters. They give you more options for customization, can hold more media, and don't need to be cleaned as often as HOB. Buuuut they typically come at a steeper price. The most popular brands are eheim, fluval, and sunsun. I have eheims and love them. Reviews for sunsuns can be hit or miss, but they definitely have good value for their price. When picking a filter you generally want a turnover rate of 8-10 times your tank size. So 27 gallon tank, youd want about 216 - 270 gallons per hour (gph), keep this in mind when picking a canister.

If you plan on tropical fish you will definitely need a heater. Aqueon pro and eheim make good heaters. If you go canister, you can get an inline heater which are nice because you don't have to look at it or try to hide it in your aquarium.

For planted tanks you need a substrate. The cheapest option is to use pool filter sand along with some root tabs. Look into the walstad method if you wanna keep it low tech and cheap. The only problem with this method is that if you ever want to move plants or hardscape around it can be a bit messy. The more expensive route is to buy some aquasoil. There are a few types, but the most well known is ADA aquasoil. These substrates are packed with nutrients that last at least a couple years usually. In between is to use a porous substrate like Fluorite or eco-complete. These come with a little nutrients, but will need fertilizers to continue its benefit.

Fertilizers area great way to keep your plants happy and healthy, but for many plants are not really necessary. If you decide to use them you can buy them in liquid or dry form. I suggest buying dry because it is much cheaper, but you will have to figure out how much you need to dose. Luckily there are calculators out there that can do it for us!

Lighting you have many options. My favorite are finnex LEDs. They are middle of the ground pricing wise and do their job very well in my experience. Here is a good guide for lighting. When researching a light you want to use you should do so by finding its PAR value at the level of your substrate. Low is about 0-30 PAR, medium 30-50, and high 50+ PAR. Low you don't need pressurized CO2 to avoid algae, medium it is recommended, but you can get away with a densely planted aquarium and use of seachem excel, and high you need pressurized CO2.

I like to use hardscape in my aquariums. Things like rock and drift wood give a natural appearance to aquariums, provide shelter for livestock and take up space. If you get into aquascpaing, hardscape plays a major role.

Plant selection will depend on your lighting, fertilizer, and CO2. Here is a list of good low light/low tech plants. If you want more demanding plants do your research and ask questions if you have them!

Fish selection depends on you and what you like. See a fish you're interested in? Do NOT automatically trust a sales man at a petshop or fish store. Do your own research on the fish before buying and ask questions about people's experience with the fish and its compatibility with your tank. In a 27 gallon you can fit 1, maybe 2, groups of most smaller schooling fish and then some bottom feeders.

A general stocking plan would be 10-12 of a schooling fish like neon tetra (or something of that size), 10 salt and pepper cories, 6 otocinclus, and some red cherry shrimp.

The most important advice I can give you is to do your research. Doing your research will save you time and money. People are generally friendly and helpful on this subreddit so don't be afraid to ask more questions.

OK, so here's one problem - you are not going to get accurate results with test strips. But, I don't know what your finance situation is, so maybe you need to use them for now and anything is certainly better than nothing. If you have a few bucks to spend, get a test kit like this one, which will test much of what you want to know about except water hardness, but this one does that.

Your nitrates aren't bad. Before we talk about things to try, I have to say the following: if you change more than one thing at a time you will never know what's working and what isn't. Try one change at a time, give each change two or three days to make a difference, keep a written record with dates (and time, if you're obsessive like me), and don't just write down what you change. Try to include things you observe, and try to take cell phone pics so you can accurately measure change. Be patient, observe the tank daily, be patient, and try to be patient.

An 8 hour split may be too much with the Nicrew, but it really isn't way overboard. I do a 7 hour split but I have no experience with Nicrews, I have two Finnex Planteds and a BeamsWork, and I don't know when you changed to the Nicrew and your 8 hour regimen. You could try a blackout for a few days, and then back to your current regimen.

If your light is sitting atop your tank you can try raising it a bit. A 10 gallon is what? 12 inches tall? You can jerry rig something to raise the light, or you can get something like this, or you can hang the light from the ceiling with fishing line. If you have aquascaping tweezers you can pull algae out manually, or you can use a toothbrush; not to brush the leaves, but to grab the algae in the bristles and pull it out. I've tried all of these things in different tanks, with good results. I've also used Seachem Excel, but only once or twice a week, not daily as the directions say. It definitely helps, but it isn't a cure and it only kills the algae, like the Algaefix you are already using. If you use Excel, wash your hands afterward. There are some scary and, to my mind not very scholarly, articles on the web about the chemical used in Excel, which Seachem claims is a different isomer than what it actually uses. But wash your hands afterward anyway - it's a simple precaution. Keep this in mind: if you use either one, it will make it harder to tell if the other things you are doing are having any effect. So, maybe bite the bullet for a couple weeks to try the other things, and if you start making headway you can use just a bit of the Algaefix or Excel to help push things along.

You should also consider how heavily planted your tank is. More plant load is better to out-compete the algae. If you have a lot of plants, you also want to provide them with nutrients or the light is next to useless. A good way to increase the plant load inexpensively and relatively fast is floaters. Check the AquaSwap forum here on reddit - /r/AquaSwap/, but keep in mind that you cannot be certain that you will not get snails with the plants, even if the seller claims the plants are dipped before shipping. Snails are not a bad thing, and would probably be helpful for you. Another inexpensive way to beat algae! And, if they get out of hand you just stick a stainless steel fork in a hunk of cucumber, put it in the tank for about two hours, grab a zip-loc baggie and hold it in the tank, grab the fork, put the cucumber and snails in the bag, pull the fork out of the cucumber, and close the bag. Into the garbage with it. It will be covered with snails.

Getting back to the floaters, they will suck up nitrates, provide shade for your anubias, and you'll be pulling handfuls out of the tank in no time (into the garbage! don't take a chance of letting them into the wild by throwing them in your yard). You can keep the floaters corralled with clear air line tubing and suction cups. Make sure the diameter matches, like these do. Cut a length of hose, heat near one end while holding the end so you can pull it until it comes off, leaving a pointy end that you can now stick into the other end of your length of hose, creating a circle. I use the silicon repair stuff to "glue" it together. This guy shows you a better way to do it, in his second video in the series at 2:45. But if you want to get motivated for your algae war, watch the entire series. You will never be the same. And after that, go learn here.

There are a lot more things you can do, but maybe start with these and keep reading about this stuff whenever you get a chance. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out.

Excel itself is simply a source of carbon for the plants - some love it, and some hate it (mostly mosses and algae related plants). Excel is a stand-in or supplement for a proper Co2 system - plants need Co2 to grow - fish will produce small amounts of Co2 and plants produce Co2 at night in small quantities, but a proper system will be needed to reach high levels of dissolved Co2, which may or may not be needed for certain plants. Adding Co2 will drop the pH in the tank, so it will need to be closely regulated - I'm not sure if Excel effects the pH. I do use Excel but my tanks all have Co2 regulators tied to the pH so any drop in pH would stall my Co2 and hold the pH at a stable level.

Plants need a lot of other things to survive. Different plants will need different levels of nutrition, but the primary ferts to look at would be carbonates/bicarbonates, minerals, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

Carbonates and Bicarbonates are measured as "KH", aka Carbonate Hardness.

Minerals are measured as "GH", aka General Hardness.

Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium are the main elements in most fertilizers, and are known as the NPK values or NPK ratio, see Labeling of fertilizer.

KH and GH can be tested for using simple tests such as the highly regarded API test kit. Most tap water has some level of KH and GH that's probably fine for most plants, but it's something to look into, and you should definitely be increasing both if you're using distilled or RO water. Aquatic life such as fish and invertebrates will need a KH and GH that match their natural habitat, most plants are more forgiving. Seachem sells both Equilibrium for GH and Alkaline Buffer for KH. Alkaline Buffer can also be used with Acid Buffer which converts KH into Co2.

As for general ferts, root tabs can be great, but you can also use liquid fertilizers, such as Seachem's line of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium, along with Seachem Flourish. Whether to choose a liquid fertilizer or root tabs largely comes down to the kind of plant as some get most of their nutrients from the water column and some get them mostly from the substrate. A good indicator is where the roots are on the plant. If the plant mostly or only has roots below the substrate, then of course root tabs is a good option, but some plants will also have roots above the substrate which means they will be able to grab nutrients out of the water column with ease.

There are a lot of other trace elements that plants can benefit from, but the primary ones you need to look out for are NPK. Sorry to throw you into the deep end, so to speak, but Excel on its own is not nearly enough to provide proper nutrition for plants, and depending on your setup and what you're doing to treat your incoming water, you may not be doing enough to support a planted tank.

I would suggest a couple of things. I'm a cheapskate at heart, so take what I say with a grain of salt. A 10G tank is a perfect starting volume, but I think you can do it with way less up front cost.

First, I'd hold off on the CO2 kit until your tank gets established and you determine that CO2 is needed. For a 10G tank, you may find that a DIY kit is fine. I personally got a CO2 setup, but only because I found this one on clearance for $5 (http://www.amazon.com/Nutrafin-Natural-System-Activator-Stabilizer/dp/B00026058Y). It's essentially a commercial version of the standard DIY kit, and it bubbles for 2-3 months per charge.

Second, you may want to stay away from the HOB filter. I've got about a half-dozen of them around the house, but I have found that I really like the sponge filters way better, especially if you want to keep your cherry shrimp babies from getting sucked up. They do an excellent job with biological filtration, and if you just squeeze/rinse one of them out each time you do a water change, it will do a decent job at mechanical filtration as well. Can't beat the price either. http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82

I think your fish selection is great, but just wanted to note to you that Glowlight tetras are "moderately difficult to breed", so if you'd like a nice sustainable colony it may be worth checking out some of the livebearers. Nothing like buying 5 fish and then having 30 in a few months... I'm currently raising Endler's guppies. The males really make the tank pop, and they stay small so having 20-30 in the tank isn't too much bioload.

For plants, I think you've got the right idea with starting with some HC and then add more later. I'd also search around a bit and see if there is a local aquarium group. Trading is way better than buying... after going to my local Aquatic Plant Club monthly meeting I always walk away with 5-7 plants that I didn't have before. Your job will then be to grow like crazy to bring more back to the group for the ever-present "new guy" to get started.

For 3D supports, you may want to check out using "egg-crate", or lighting diffuser. It's dirt cheap from Home Depot and will hopefully keep the water/sediment from stagnating underneath your mountains.

Hope this helps, I'd try to spend as little as possible until you identify areas that need improvement.

Just an FYI, you responded to a random person that was just asking about the ferts. You might want to post the second half of your comment to the OP. You've got some good and useful info in there that they might want to know about!

Also, amazon sells some mini teaspoons that make dry dosing 1/64 teaspoons really simple. I prefer the flexibility of dry dosing, but others may prefer liquid so your info is definitely really useful.

Thanks for the link to Stingray PAR! I was pretty off with my estimate (and 65g height!), so its good to have the real info. People are always asking about the Stingray and that video is perfect for giving some real and trustworthy PAR values!

From his previous posts:

alright!

So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).

If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!

For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.

Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.

I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.

For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.

The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.

If you guys want links to what I have bought:

CO2 regulator

Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)

CO2 Indicator

Canister filter


Tank

And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF

alright!

So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).

If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!

For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.

Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.

I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.

For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.

The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.

If you guys want links to what I have bought:

CO2 regulator

Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)

CO2 Indicator

Canister filter


Tank

And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF

I linked this earlier to someone else but I’ll leave this here for you also.

Solenoid Version

Non-solenoid version

I’ve had great success with the solenoid version. It works just as well as my 5lb tank setup that was 4 times the price. I have the first one I linked in my bedroom because my fiancée was paranoid about a standard setup and thought it would explode (it won’t).

The non-solenoid version also works very well but without a solenoid, you can’t hook it up to a timer so you’d have to manually turn it on and off using the needle valve but it’s still much better than the bottle route. It also uses the same ingredients you’re currently using. You just have to put the instructed amount which is 200g citric acid and 200g of baking soda with I think 300ml of water.

I’ve seen it online at a couple other stores but I used Amazon.

Good luck.

Btw, I’m not affiliated in any way to the above product or store. I’m just passing on my experience. The best option would be a full co2 setup with a co2 tank and regulator.

TBH I’ve been doing aquascaping for several years. This is the first time I’ve managed to successfully get the carpet and hair grass.

Here are a few pointers and pitfalls:

Pointer:
Use a soft, nutrient dense substrate. I use aquasolum black humate (a Seachem product).
Pitfall: Avoid using course gravel like Flourite. It’s too think and heavy which prevents the roots of a carpeting plant like hair grass from being able to spread runners and creating new growth sprouts. This was the single biggest reason all my other carpeting attempts failed. Black sand would work as well. Whatever it is, it needs to be soft enough for roots to be able to spread easily.

Pointer: Use quality lights. I use 2 x Kessill Tuna Sun lights. Those are crazy expensive and may be over your budget. I’m sure there are cheaper options.
Pitfall: Don’t use cheap lights which fail to produce adequate FULL SPECTRUM lighting.

Pointer: Use a filter that moves a lot of water like a canister filter. I use a Fluval 207.
Pointer: Use quality filtration media. The absolute best of the best is this Aquarium Filter Pad - Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHIOM8A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Coupled with this

Polishing Filter Pad 100 Micron -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014G7WTRY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pointer: Use CO2 injection. I use DIY CO2 and it works fantastically well. I use this
Estink DIY CO2 Generator Aquarium Plant System Kit D201 Tube Valve Guage Bottle Cap for Aquarium Moss Plant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCXOPKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jHTPDbPFZBQHC
With this
ISTA Intense Flow CO2 Bubble Counter suction cup hanging - aquarium Solenoid diffuser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RZZROHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dKTPDbN38ASP5
With this
JARDLI Pollen Glass CO2 Diffuser with Bubble Counter for Aquarium Planted Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N36MAO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1HTPDbHP2BECM
With this
Milliard Citric Acid 5 Pound - 100% Pure Food Grade NON-GMO Project VERIFIED (5 Pound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EYFKNL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uITPDbXA0Q9JE
With this
Arm & Hammer Baking Soda Unscented Box, Boxed 1 Lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YCILXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BJTPDb4VRBT2Z

Pointer: Use filtered water preferably from a reverse osmosis water dispenser. I own 4 x 5 gallon jugs which I fill up to use for any and all water changes.

Pointer: keep your water immaculately clean. Like 2 water changes per week which includes cleaning your filter media.

Pointer: don’t let any algae start to build up. I use a toothbrush to brush off algae growth from rocks and plant leaves.

Hope this helps. Happy to answer any other questions!

Lighting: It depends on how deep the tank is. In my 55g, 29g, and standard 20g, crypts and small swords have a really hard time with standard T5 fluorescent lighting. With double-bright LEDs, they do OK.

Anubias and java ferns are my heroes. They don't grow very fast, but they just don't need a lot of fussing over, either.

Java moss won't grow where it doesn't get light -- but it doesn't have to be strong light.

If I had my preference, every tank I own would have the proportions of a 20g long. There's a lot of volume for water and fish, but it's nice and shallow so it's easy to light and for plants to thrive. My 20g long has the crappiest lights and the most prolific growth of plants.

HOB filters: If you look at the way Aquaclear filters are put together, there are three distinct components. There's a coarse foam insert for mechanical filtration. There are pumice beads with lots of surface area for bacterial cultures to grow (bacterial filtration). Finally, there's a carbon packet that's meant to provide chemical filtration. They're all really important in an aquarium, but I rely on my plants to do the chemical filtration bit.

Now, don't get me wrong -- I've run tanks with Penguin & Aqueon & Biobag filters with the carbon already in there and it didn't kill my plants. But with my heavily planted tanks (where I've upgraded to Aquaclear filters), I have been able to completely omit the carbon component to no ill effect for my plants or my fish.

If nothing else, it reduces my operational costs. All I do is rinse out the foam insert from time to time and/or run the pumice beads under the tap to wash off the schmutz. They don't wear out (at least not in the time I've had mine running), and they shouldn't be scrubbed or sanitized, because the invisicritters that would make us sick are the things that keep the tank healthy.

The biggest thing that I've discovered to help my low-tech, low-light planted tanks look great is to take advantage of vertical planting, meaning that I get big (tall) pieces of driftwood and anchor plants all over them. That way, I end up with greenery going gangbusters at various levels without having to rely on some kind of stem plant (although Hygrophilia difformis/water wisteria is a good one) to grow upwards all the way from the bottom of the tank.

Dwarf Baby Tears/HC/Cuba is a pretty demanding plant if you are trying to get it to carpet. It requires high light as well as injected CO2. You are correct that Monte Carlo looks similar (slightly bigger leaflets) but isn’t as demanding of plant. If you aren’t going to inject CO2, I would recommend that you at least dose excel to make CO2 more available to your plants. As far as lighting, you can still get away with the Ray 2 as a typical 10 gallon is deep enough where the PAR value hitting the substrate would be med-high, which would be perfect for Monte Carlo.

My #1 choice: Finnex Ray2 Aquarium LED Daylight, 18-Inch

Honorable mention: Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights, 20-Inch

Honorable mention: Current USA 18"-24" Satellite Plus PRO LED Light


Edit: invest in a timer either way.

Well that depends on the size. I think anything under 5 gallons would be easy enough to move, but it will cause the fish stress if you have them. I suggest getting an all in one kit if you're not going to do anything more than some easy plants, shrimp, and a few hearty fish. Spec V is a good talk that's also easy to transport.

Also to answer one if your questions, yes I think a fish tank is a great addition to a classroom or School setting. As long as you can keep it safe where kids wouldn't tamper with it if they felt mischievious.

The Fluval Chi might be a good tank, but might be more difficult to find a good light to fit it.

I'd recommend the ADA substrate system. It's more expensive than Fluval but ultimately worth it.

As for a filter, the tank I've suggested has one built in, but if you don't go for that, then YES! If you've got critters in it, filter the water. (Also get a heater!)

I'm currently running a Fluval Spec 19L using a combination of this substrate, along with the power sand and some other substrate additives (all sold on that site). I'm growing HC Cuba (dwarf baby tears) and it's doing well with plentiful CO2 using one of these and lots of light with two of these.

Are those tanks 24" deep and 17" high? If they are only 17" high, it should be fairly easy to get medium light with the Marineland Double Bright or Finnex FugeRay LED fixtures. The Marineland can be easily modified by connecting two sets and doubling its length. Not sure about the Finnex, may need to suspend it for the 140g. If the aquariums are 24" high, you'll need something more powerful like a Finnex Ray2, DIY LED or several T5HO.

Here's a handy reference for general light levels. If your tanks really are 24" deep, you'll need to suspend the lights above the tank to spread the light across the breadth of the tank. LEDs are a different beast and it's difficult to tell just how much light you'll get depending on how they are setup, but high quality LED fixtures are generally comparable to a pair of T5HO.

As for filters, the Eheim Classic 2217 or Fluval 406 canister filters should work for the 60g depending on the bio-load. It's generally best to get a filter that is rated for twice your tanks volume.

I'd highly recommend considering a wet-dry sump for the 140g since it will be much cheaper and more effective than any comparable canister.

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FUM
thats the filter equivalent of your p200. or you could go up to a 70. but the main thing is the bio media in the back. swap out the carbon for even more and you have a super strong bio filter going on.

this canister is pretty cool too. http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A207-206-External-Filter/dp/B005QRDDM4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1406263645&sr=1-1&keywords=fluval+206

I don't think you have enough plants to warrant CO2, but a DIY CO2 is pretty easy to setup.

So I got baking soda (got it from local grocers), and got citric acid, locally couldn't find it, so I bought it online: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYFKNL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got this system: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fish-Tank-Aquarium-CO2-Diffuser-Check-Valve-U-Shape-Glass-Tube-Suction-Cup-Kit/282701446441?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Cheaply made, very happy with it so far.

Yes, I realize now that I should have refined my original post. As far as what I have going right now:

Lighting - Finnex Stingray; buying two clamp lights isn't going to be much cheaper than this at $44.

Filter - Sponge filter with the powerhead listed above. I'm not set on one for now because I'll see what's at my LFS and go from there, but I have one in mind.

Tank - standard 10g tank from LFS

Substrate - I plan on using either black sand or normal sand, whatever I can find, along with root tabs. I like the look of sand and from what I hear it's easy to use for rescaping, which I will probably be doing. I had dirt capped with sand in my last tank and it looked horrible after a while because it mixed too much.

Is Seachem Prime the typical dechlorinator? I saw it recommended somewhere and that's what I plan on getting. I'm also looking at getting these tools. I'm not sure how much quality differs but they're cheap and have some good reviews.

I plan on sticking with RCS and some snails for now, fish can come later. As for plants, I think I'm gonna go with some java fern and java moss. I'll see what else my LFS has and recommends.

I greatly appreciate the help by the way.

EDIT: I wanted to add that I'll only be using root tabs on plants that would need it, I know I'm not supposed to plant java fern in the sand. I was just reading about staurogyne repens and how it could work in sand and low tech as long as I use root tabs and fertilizer. Do you have any thoughts on this?

1)Aquarium lights using a quantitative measure known as PAR to help assess the intensity of light at varying levels. In essence, the further you are away from a point source, the more light diffuses and the less intense it becomes, use this chart to verify your PAR levels before considering a medium or high lights plants.

PAR levels of Finnex Fugeray Planted Plus light

2) Do you have algae problems? If not yet, giving any excess light, co2 or ferts will cause algae to thrive in your tank. They will take the excess nutrients and breed like wildfire. You have to strike a balance in your tank as excess of light, co2 or nutrients will be taken up by unwanted algae. Low level lights should be on for 12 hours, medium for about 8 and high for about 6. This is all relative and you need to play with the time to dial it in. The co2 needs to be turned on 2 hours before lights go on so that the plants can begin photosynthesizing right away, and off one hour before the lights go off to give them a "break".

CO2 Basics

Balancing light, ferts and co2

3) Dry fertilizers are a much better, more economical way to go in the long run but you have to do research on this if you plan to use them, as too much can cause algae blooms or worse. Here is a great source for them. There are also other sellers, which are a quick google search away. Remember the upfront cost of $25.00 may wrinkle your nose, but you will literally use these for years if you buy dry ferts in bulk like this.

PPS-PRO fertilizers GLA

Information on Fertilizers and dosing methods

4) Get a GH/KH kit from amazon, it will tell you how hard your water is, and depending on the plants that you want to keep it will indicate how much work that you will need to do to keep them happy.

GH/KH test kit

Basic info on GH/KH

Thanks! I haven't spent too much time searching yet (because I haven't a clue what specs I should be looking for), but my brief search just now I came up with these:

Finnex String Ray

Aquatic Life Reno

VivaGrow, which looks almost identical to my Finnex Planted but the name is different. (I really like my light, I just don't want to spend $100-120 if possible.)

Are there any lights you would recommend that aren't too pricey (I'd love to spend no more than $50 or $60)?

I use mainly LED lights on my tanks. I have had the best luck growing plants with these lights on 29g tanks:

finnex planted plus

finnex stingray

current USA LED freshwater

DIY LED flood light

I have also used clamp shop lights from lowes and the great value daylight led bulbs

I have the same marineland light setup on one of my 29g tanks and it is barely enough to keep a ball of hair algae alive.

As an alternative, especially for those who need larger than a 30-gal bucket, don't have an area to store something like that, or don't care about saving the old water, you can just go straight to your faucet with a water changing kit. HOWEVER, do this only if you know your water is excellent quality and doesn't need to be conditioned prior to use. I'm lucky enough to have great tap water, I've been doing it this way for 18 months, and a 50% water change on my 55g takes 10 minutes.

I got two of these tanks last year and I love them both, mine came shipped with a plastic mesh on the outside that to me gives it a better look than just the bare tank. Welding shops you can buy and refill tanks there, like what also happened to me they tried to take my tank when I just wanted it filled and returned and a friend of mine had bad experience with brew shop co2 before so welding it is for me. I also got off amazon a decent solenoid to complete the setup, luckily I got both on sale for almost half off may happen again here soon with the season I'll be buying both again if I can.

Sometimes those little clip on LEDs don't cut it, I'd suggest going to Home depot and getting a pack of their Daylight CFLS and a metal clamp light fixture for it, you could use one or two depending on the length of the tank. Also if you want to go another cheap route get Osmocote+ plant fertilizer. They look like little yellow balls and just stick them in the substrate, good for root feeders like swords. But if you have a lot of stem plants that are column feeders (Lugwidia repens, cabomba, ect.) I'd suggest going the EI route and getting dry fertilizers. They're much cheaper in the long run compared to liquid ferts. You mix them yourself with these There is measuring conversion in the comments section.

I have a full bag of purigen IN my filter Used this one, then I had an old bag, cut it open, and dumped out its contents, and used THAT bag for the filtering through the pump. However, there would be no problems if you got a full bag, cut it open, and then had it go through the mesh and purigen media, just make sure to put a chip clip on it so it doesn't spill everywhere between water changes, and store it in your buckets.

I haven't had a problem with the PH bouncing up and down like PH down will do. The peat actually softens the water through the tannic acid it releases, and it stays there. And yes, I reuse the tights.

Edit: Added links

Edit2: I've hardly ever had luck with any vals, might I recommend Hygrophila Angustifolia? It grows like a weed in my tank!

I have this DIY system and it works great (for what it is).

https://www.amazon.com/Generator-Aquarium-Plant-System-Bottle/dp/B01NCXOPKP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518152996&sr=8-2&keywords=diy+co2

CO2 levels are definitely not as stable as a pressurized system, so you have to give yourself some headroom so you don't gas your fish.

My pressurized system is a cheap 5lb co2 tank (co2 place exchanges it when I need a refill). My regulator is by Azoo and it works great. The needle valve isn't as precise as some higher end systems, but this is about half the price as a UNS or GLA.

https://www.amazon.com/aquarium-Pressure-Regulator-Magnetic-Valve/dp/B018QQ5SI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518153313&sr=8-1&keywords=azoo+regulator

Yeah co2 can cost up to 200 or so for a proper setup, depending on size and quality. I just got co2 running on my 30gallon for incredibly cheap though. Look up the citric acid and baking soda co2 method. It’s incredibly cheap, pretty easy, and it’s just as reliable. I’ll send you an amazon link to the equipment I’m using, gimme a sec to update this comment

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCXOPKP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here’s the main part of the setup. All you need are powdered citric acid and baking soda(I bought it at Walmart, but there are much better deals on amazon) and two bottles(I used 1L coke bottles). Then you just need the usual diffuser and check valve. I bought the tropica 3-in-1 diffuser which works pretty well, but it’s not great. Certainly worth the cheap price though.

Over all, I paid around $30 for the whole setup

Tons. If you're looking for ready-made lights, Finnex makes some great options. It also depends on the depth to the substrate. The Finnex Stingray is 30 PAR at 12", same with the Current Freshwater Plus, the Stingray being much less expensive. I would suggest using two 24" on either side. You could use a single 48" light, since it's LED and won't nuke the plastic.

Alternatively, these fixtures are cheap, and you can use bulbs like this. You can either set them on top of your glass top, or hang them. Very cheap, very good lighting.

If you have around 8 inches above your tanks, I think the home depot clamp lights with some generic 6500k led bulbs do a great job, plus it's pretty cheap and easy to add more or less lighting depending on your needs. I used a dremel to cut off the diffuser on mine, and I think it makes a difference in how strong the lighting is.

I think my light is good enough. I'm using a Nicrew ClassicLED at 50% for 8 hours (4 hours with a siesta in between). Nothing fancy, but works well, I think. But I really love the planted aspect of my tank and want to step up to the next level besides just doing root tabs and liquid ferts.

Your tank is looking great! I honestly just got rid of the filter/light on my chi this morning; replaced it with this light and this filter. It's already much better!

Thanks! I ordered these, the 20". Someone on here suggested them on another post, so I looked them up and they had great reviews. :)

Thank you for the thorough answer!!

1. I know I DSM'ed too short - I had to cut it short because my driftwood started growing mold (and I read that if the mold penetrates the wood it will be only good for my garbage can).
   
   
2. How do I "dose more nitrate" ?
   
   
3. I am keeping the liquid that checks the saturation of the CO2 at the limegreen level. This is what I have. Is that not detailed enough?
   
   
4. I have the test kit. Just tested again and I have Nitrites and Nitrates at 0 ppm :(. - so how do I make more? I'm giving the shrimp food so maybe put more?
   
   

• The tank specs are on the first post I linked on top. The tank is only a 5 gal. Light is a Finnex Stingray Aquarium LED Light 16".

Sponge filters are the best for shrimp. It's only $2.81 cents shipped.

Here a amazon link where to buy it:

https://amzn.com/B0056XVF82

Here a youtube link about it:

https://youtu.be/Rc5aICDyorM

But you do need an air pump for it.

The shrimp will glaze off the sponge and it will help encourage breeding.

I would not recommend no filter unless your tank is heavy planted but water movement is beneficial to spread out nutrients/co2 to plants.

Yeah, your current plants will definitely fill in. I suppose adding more now would just give you more to maintain later if you are patient enough for what you have to grow in.

I do run my light at full power. I also have a little Spec V so I should have algae but don't yet besides what was already on my driftwood from the dry start. I have a dense plot of floaters and I raised the light about 6" above my tank with this. I'm also running CO2 and dose excel and ferts daily. All of that might be holding off the algae.

I'm also still experimenting. Like I said, I've only had water in my tank for a week, which is maybe why I haven't had any issues with algae. I just bumped my photo period up to 8.5 hours this morning so I'll see how this week goes.

I don't know that much about Red Lotus in particular but bulb plants I grow outside have all they need to grow stored in the bulb itself, they can grow into a full sized plant in a cup of water without any soil. Your Red lotus may be using the nutrients in it's bulb to grow well even without bright lights. I would go for this Nicrew it's $40. It will give you light you need to to try more varieties
of plants and see them really thrive. If you want to save more money try a 30" LED shop light from Home Depot, don't worry that it's not made for growing plants, in my experience overall brightness(intensity) is much more important than wavelength(color temperture)

https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-aquarium-planted-system-bottle/dp/B00UYMO6SQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=DIY+co2&qid=1555945772&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

two 2 litre pop bottles, citric acid in one and baking soda in the other. the only downside is having the change the mixture. i had it for a while on my 40 breeder and the mix lasted about a week at 1-2 BPS. i recently upgraded to a 5-pound tank and its the best thing i could of done.

​

lighting and co2 kind of go hand in hand. co2 helps turn up the metabolism of the plants so they can uptake more nutrients and light. its not so much that you could be wasting co2, its that algae can uptake it too, so if theres an excess, youll get an algae bloom. but if you have a light thats too strong and your plants arent utilizing all of it (slower metabolism without co2), then youll have the same problem.

​

personally, i would do co2 and add a secondary desk lamp in the meantime, then get a better light as someone else suggested.

I won an auction for the betta at the end of the album; and decided I needed to set a new tank up for him instead of putting him in my community tank or Endler breeding tank.

The tank is an Aqueon Evolve 4 Gallon and the light is a Finnex Fugeray 10". I'm just using the stock filter; which is questionable as to if it will be too powerful for the betta...

I'm intending to go fairly low-tech. I'll probably keep the Rotala in there and find some variety of Anubis. I don't really have any experience with low-tech tanks.. so any suggestions would be more than welcome!

Aqueon Aquarium Water Changer
The Amazon link

I have one and oh man I love doing water changes now lol but if you drain and fill with a garden hose that is pretty much the same thing. I was carrying buckets for days for a small % water change, I knew something would give, my back or my patience

Go on amazon and get the Aqueon version. It's like $23. Petsmart and Petco, etc are WAY overpriced.

Did it for you. Guess I was lucky and got it at a good time cause I paid $23.xx and it was prime. Here is for $30. Still WAY cheaper than a chain store. http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Aquarium-Water-Changer-Feet/dp/B000YAJKL6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418177170&sr=8-1&keywords=aqueon+water+changer

I use 19w on an 8g. it's on the very high end, honestly. you're going to grow a lot of algae. I wouldn't do it.

also you can save SO much money by just going to home depot, getting one or two of these

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bayco-150-Watt-Incandescent-Portable-Work-Light/3122291

and one or two of these

https://www.amazon.com/Equivalent-Standard-Energy-Saving-Daylight/dp/B01FYGDX3A/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483821216&sr=1-4&keywords=LED+6500k

fancy lights can be a ripoff and you can get the same thing by just doing your own LED's. make sure you go by watts used and not watt equivalents

This Hagen Fluval LED 24-Inch Daylight/Plant Lamp, 25-watt
has served my 30gal low-light planted tank well. Here's a pic of it in action: My 30g!

I also have this Finnex FugeRay Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights on my 5gal tank.

Honestly, I prefer the Fluval, due to it's ease-of-use and the way the light colors the water. But the Finnex has a nice, well-built mechanical look. YMMV.

• Yosoo off Amazon
  
• StarSide Diffuser
  
• Fluval Bubble Counter
  
  I have no idea how this stuff works but it's pretty cool!

Diffuser

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N36MAO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Citric Acid


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYFKNL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Co2 kit. Includes instructions on how to mix baking soda with the citric acid. You provide your own bottles. These are just typical 2l soda bottles.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MC7PK5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1




I have yet to install the kit as I am waiting for the defuser/bubble counter but from all the research I have done, it seems to be a good working solution that requires minimal fuss.

Thank you! Are there any other plants just like that? I also bought this light do you have any clue how much I'd have to manage the light to make sure Algae doesn't grow?

Lights with the 24/7 light cycle will grow a good amount of algae on their default settings. The only one I would consider (if I got another one) would be the Finnex 24/7 CC model because it's much more customizable. But if you still want a cheap one, then get the cheap Vivagrow 24/7 one.

On my 20g long, I use this NICREW light and it has grown all of my low and medium light plants great:

https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Aquarium-Light-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01ID3OK3S/

The only caution I have is it is at the very edge of medium-high (tested mine at 50 PAR but you said you want that) light fixture on a 20g long, so you may need to get a cheap inline dimmer dial to go with it just in case:

https://www.amazon.com/Strip-Light-Dial-Dimmer-Black/dp/B00RBXPDQU/

Very cheap timer that works with any fixture:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHED0/

More expensive timer with gradual on/off for those skittish fish (I buy the used ones). Requires standard DC connectors though, so it won't work with stuff like Finnex or older Beamswork models:

https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Single-Timer-Aquarium/dp/B00FDV1AFA

Sounds like you got your options covered! Gl with the setup.

If you are interested in a riser, the one i've been using is this

I know Reddit is a fan of Finnex LED lights. I think something like the Finnex [Planted+] (http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Planted-Aquarium-Moonlights/dp/B00GH9HS80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417194616&sr=8-1&keywords=planted%2B) might be a good choice.

Edit: You can select different sizes. Price zombie below only linked the 20" one.

On my desk. The cheap LED light never worked but otherwise this has been a great tank. Have had it running a year now. Album

Sounds like a finnex stingray would work great for your situation.

this has been the most helpful comment ever, thank you so much. I had no idea it was my dropchecker that mattered - I assumed it was all about the tank chemistry/kH. Right now it is placed opposite the diffuser about 2 in from the surface. here is the diffuser/drop checker i am using:

http://www.amazon.com/ISTA-Indicator-Drop-Checker-MONITOR/dp/B00PRMCZFY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458517946&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+drop+checker

So I want to keep my checker at yellow but make sure my fish aren't struggling?

I have one of these and it's great. Almost like having a real CO2 system except you don't have to find a store to refill your tank. Lasts about 4 - 6 weeks.

https://www.amazon.com/Generator-Dioxide-Diffuser-Aquarium-Greenhouse/dp/B07Q9YC25Y

Just a cheapy from Amazon. Works great for me! ISTA CO2 Indicator Drop Checker LONG TERM MONITOR test - Real time Solution kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PRMCZFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_UXujxbBJPBTYY

I have one of these in my 2.5gal RCS tank, and it's UH MAAAY ZIIIING. Quiet, and if you take a pre filter sponge, cut it one one side, and wedge it under the outflow there will be almost no surface agitation, like this.

I also have this one and it's great too, but it's REALLY powerful despite it's size. You can put a sponge on the outflow to disperse it too though.

If you must insist on using those $10 pumps for water movement, why not just get one of these? It's slightly bigger, but it has mechanical filtration which is significantly better than just moving the water around.

Note, I own the same pumps in your video and I also own the Elite Mini and it's not much bigger. I can say from experience that it's worth it to have a power filter running.

I love the look of LED's but finding a decent one for a low price is kinda difficult.

I really like this one, but it would be months till I could afford it.

If I could just find like a floor lamp where I could shine 2-3 CFL bulbs straight down on my tank I would be so happy. =(

I recently upgraded to these exact bulbs but have always used 4 6500K bulbs in reflectors over my 55 gallon. I dose dry ferts and no co2 but have pretty quick growth as far as I'm concerned.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ID3OK3S/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this light on my 20 long. Good luck so far.

Amazon!

JARDLI nano lily violet pipe set

Flow is a bit strong at the wall it's pointing at. If you're not careful it'll blow your substrate up a bit. Wasn't sure if I really needed this tip. This is my first tank, so, wasn't sure if an ordinary lily pipe would create enough flow at the substrate.

The sword and bacopa might be able to utilize that stuff, but the DHG will need pressurized co2. Like i said if you're on a budget then this is what you should look into. You can buy the kit on amazon

Try this one (or just the attachment can be had as well). You should only need to unscrew the aerator/flow limiter from the main faucet's output and put this in. Same as installing a water filter on the tap

http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Aquarium-Water-Changer-Feet/dp/B000YAJKL6

edit: I was thinking of the "flow valve assembly" here, although you might want to look into a better quality one, or some zipties, just in case

Here’s a good GH/KH kit. Costs like $7. test kit

Im in the same boat, 20 gallon long on a budget, so I think this was the best option for me.

thanks! , I currently have 2 filters running, the sponge filter is here: Sponge Filter Link, and my other filter is a Marineland Penguin Biowheel 75, my light is the Marineland Advanced LED Strip Light, anywhere from $60 to $100 for 18", depends on where you look

I bought a Fluval Spec V 5 gallon tank off amazon.ca (no car, didn't want to carry) a few months ago. Definitely more pricey at ~$110-140 but I have no regrets. It comes with a tank, light, and filter. I liked it as a starter kit because it had most of what I needed, the filter is hidden, and it runs very quiet.

Other websites to add to what was already posted above:
http://www.theplantguy.org/MrAqua-Aquariums_c_130.html (Manitoba, but will ship)
http://www.shrimpfever.com/shop/category/shrimp/tank-kits-and-gifts/ (Ontario, but will ship)
http://www.menageriepetshop.com (local Toronto)

You can check out the closest fish/aquarium forums in your area and do meetups for plants and other goods.
http://www.gtaaquaria.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=7 (general toronto area)
http://www.bcaquaria.com/forum/#classified-section (BC)
http://albertaaquatica.com/index.php?showforum=65 (alberta)
http://www.canadaquaria.ca (canada)

There are usually people getting rid of aquarium stuff on craigslist and kijiji too.

If you aren't going to have any livestock, you can also venture into strange shaped jars/vases (Winners, Canadian tire, homesense, bedbathandbeyond, JYSK, etc.). Also check https://www.reddit.com/r/jarrariums for inspiration!

Slightly off topic: for plant stuff, I relied on the "easy" list on tropica's website for direction. http://tropica.com/en/plants/?tabIndex=1&alias=Easy since my tank is also lowtech

I use this sponge filter. I have been using it for months and my adult and baby shrimp love grazing and chilling out on it.

I use this DIY diffuser, I have found that it is extremely efficient, more so than my old ceramic diffuser. It also only costs about 16 dollars.This forum post describes the process of making one. You can find the filter on amazon here

I would recommend supplementing your diy setup with this https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01NCXOPKP/?coliid=I28RJL0SHQHUER&colid=JX62JSDG7Z5Y&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it or another product like it. I have a double gatorade bottle setup on my 20g tall and it worked fairly well, alternating refilling a bottle each week. Used 1tsp yeast to 2 cups sugar. However, getting the diy caps (drilling a whole for tubing) to not leak co2 was a pain and now I've got a leak again. I'm not setting it back up until I buy a little rig like this.

​

​

I have this filter on it right now. I could probably get away without it though. I just have it for looks. I like the water flow, and it clears up the water quickly after a trimming session.

Citric acid from Amazon is 15$ for 5 pounds.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCXOPKP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy some citric acid, baking soda, and the appropriate tubing, catch valve, drop checker, and gas diffuser, and you have a solution for $30. The down side is you have to manually manage the CO2 flow if you want to have it turn off in the evening or for pH (CO2 saturation) control.

Tank is a custom 34gal tall. Looking to upgrade the old single 24in t12 bulb to led. As the t12 is simply not cutting it for my plants.

Trying to decide between a set of high CRI led floodlights, and a 18w Nicrew led bar.

The floodlights are similar to these, but cost $15 from my local electrical supply house. Using high cri philips LED. 5500K color.

Lookalike floods: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LXRTJZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UK-TAbYC1JEJA


Nicrew: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SM-TAbXJHQ2Z5

http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizers-supplements/micro-macro

And

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009X1P9S

I directly dry dose my 5.2 gallon with these.

Here is the desktop version of your link

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PRMCZFY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1499136303&sr=8-9&keywords=co2+monitor+aquarium
Here is the link.

I got this. Unless there's brass inside the valve or any fittings, not that I know of.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=twister_B0772N6YMJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID3OK3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

75 liters. Long.

bough this just now
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID3OK3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you know, i'm almost certain my light isnt strong enough for this plant anyway :(

Ikea RANARP lamp with a 14 watt daylight compact fluorescent bulb

Substrate is pool filter sand and river pebbles.

Plants include several crypts, ludwigia repens and peruenis, susswassertang, java moss, bacopa, purple cabomba, riccia flutens, duckweed, frogbit, dwarf water lettuce, and an oriental sword.

Filter is a cheap sponge filter that I modified by drilling several pieces of driftwood out. I hollowed out the bottom piece to hide the sponge intake and then ran tubing up the long piece for the outflow.

Dosing with metricide (excel substitute), and NilocG macro and micro fertilizer.

It is pushing it for a Betta as they should be in something at least 5 gallons or so. This one does not have a heater as I was trying to hide all equipment so it would not be great for a betta. I will probably just stock it with a small snail or some of the red cherry shrimp culls from my other tanks.

Nicrew LED Hood Light for Aquarium Fish Tank, Adjustable from 28" - 36" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID3OK3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qnivbbLXikco4

It's got bad reviews from people in this sub before but... you can see the results.