Best products from r/Plumbing

We found 56 comments on r/Plumbing discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 831 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/Plumbing:

u/plumbtree · 2 pointsr/Plumbing

Any bag or bucket will do - it's what you put in it that counts. Something cheap is best, like a 5 gal bucket, since the tools are going to cost you...

The tools I recommend having immediately:

-Hammer (22oz Estwing steel hammer is great, I still have the first one I ever bought 14 years ago)
-Nail puller
-Flat pry bar
-2-lb sledge (if you're doing commercial work you'll be setting a lot of hangers :)
-12" or shorter level (preferably with grade marks - I like these ones
-Set of cold chisels
-Adjustable pliers (some like channellocks, but after using both for many years, I have come to the conclusion that due to mechanical advantages and better engineering, these Knipex pliers are the best pliers on the face of the earth, period. You can get a 3-pack on ebay for less than $100. But you can also just get the 10" ones which you'll use most often for around $30 online.
-"Rat-tail" file and flat file
-4-in-1 or 8-in-1 screwdriver
-utility knife (preferably one that stores blades in the handle and one that easily changes blades)
-Sharpies (or pencils - I prefer sharpies, since they more visibly mark metal)
-12", 8", and 6" crescent wrench. Get something cheap, because eventually you'll want these and they're effing expensive, so you might as well get some basic stuff now, knowing that you'll eventually upgrade when you have about $800 to spend on hand tools.
-5/16" nut driver

That's all I can think of right now....don't get too worried about getting the perfect stuff now, because as you steadily become a master of your craft, your style of organization, tool selection, and approach will gradually become more specific, and you'll go through lots of old crappy "apprentice" tools before you start to have thousands of dollars invested in super-special stuff like this, this,this, this, this, boy I could go on forever. You don't use a lot of stuff very often, but when you need it, nothing else will do. Oh, and pipe wrenches...aluminum Ridgid pipe wrenches.

EDIT: Oh I forgot! If you're doing commercial work and cast iron piping, you'll definitely want one of these.

u/ComeOnYouApes · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Here are several of my favorite special tools made by Ridgid

Amazon This tool is really handy for faucets and drains.

$30 on amazon

Amazon Every one needs a few extra 6 in 1's laying around, may as well get a good one.

$12 on amazon

Amazon This two part wrench is perfect for water stops.

$30 on Amazon

Amazon This is the bees knees for cutting the tubular plastic used for traps and waste lines under sinks and lavs.

$20 on Amazon

You can probably get all of that and be just over the $100 limit with taxes and shipping. I've used all of these in the field and now sell them since i moved to the other side of the parts counter, they make good stuff. Do a Ridgid Tool search on Amazon so you can see if any of there more expensive tools would make sense. Like if he does gas work with copper, they have great flairing tools.

u/ThaDelio · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Replace the canister black rubber seal with this:
Mansfield Plbg. Prod. 006304837 Replacement Seal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045LVAZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dXEbzbTJ0X50T
Be careful, wear gloves maybe? Unless you don't mind black shit all over your hands. Dispose of it into some toilet paper or a paper towel and throw it away. New one should fit around and it will flush good again, as for supply line, go to the local store and also grab a 12" braided stainless steel supply line. & the fill valve I would buy this:
Fluidmaster 400A Anti-Siphon Toilet Tank Fill Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002ND6R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mZEbzbSH6FDNE

You'll need a bucket to catch the water from the tank, then the water off to the toilet first. Flush it to completely empty the tank, then remove the supply line, probably need pliers to remove the fill valve nut where the supply was attached, remove that, get the new one set up and ready with the rubber seal on the new shank. Bucket comes into play here with a towel, remove old one, shove new one in, tighten by hand. Shouldn't need to be any tighter than hand tight. Install new supply line to valve and fill valve shank, and replace the canister seal. Good to go. If there's still a problem, it's probably the valve that shuts off the water to the toilet. In that case, call your landlord to fix it. Otherwise. Good job! Like-new toilet. Good luck.

u/cujo195 · 1 pointr/Plumbing

It's funny, I was originally looking at that exact pump on Amazon. It looks great and I like the price except it looks like it requires a vent to be tied into the vent stack. Is that correct?

I didn't want to have to run an extra pipe and cut into the vent stack. So I'm considering the Hartell because it specifically says it doesn't require the vent and I'm pretty sure it's the one installed in a This Old House video.

u/Balerathon · 1 pointr/Plumbing

EDIT: OK, I went back and looked at the torch I bought, it says Propane only. I returned it and and got a Berzomatic TS8000

Ok, thanks for the replies!

I picked up this flux: Harris SSWF1 Stay Silv Brazing Flux, 1 lb. Jar, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002075B0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_790RCb2K2T97F

^(And this torch head: BernzOmatic Basic Use UL2317 Brass Pencil Flame Propane Torch Head) ^(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008ZA0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N.0RCbY4860NK)

^(And did buy propane, but it was only like $6 for 2 camping cans so no big loss.)

I'll grab a can of MAPP.

I assume that because it's only 12 gauge wire and a 20 gauge "solder" it won't take long at all to heat up. As I understand it:

  • Clean everything thoroughly. I'll use sandpaper and fine stainless steel brushes.
  • Apply flux to wires Heat wire until red hot.
  • Heat "solder" a bit and dip in flux
  • Heat wires a bit more and touch solder to area.

    I've also seen people cut little bits of the soldering wire and place it on the target, then heat the wires until it flows. Is that incorrect?

    Thanks again!
u/garfi3ld · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Thanks for the follow up, I'm most likely going to pull it out and just replace that last section.

I hadn't bought anything yet, I was basically looking to find a flange that might fit. I think one of the clamp on cast iron flanges might work but after pricing out a full replacement again (with PVC not ABS this time) the price difference isn't really worth the time I'm putting into trying to get around the replacement.

What I was looking at though were the PVC push in designs, had the ID fit. Or this style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001REGQXI

But I have help coming to help pull out that heavy cast iron tomorrow to get started on this. Also planning on starting drywall this week as well if time allows, can't wait to at least have walls back up

u/HierEncore · 4 pointsr/Plumbing

The bottom of that 90/eblow looks like a sharkbite type connection? All you have to do is pop the pipe out of the sharkbite-end of the 90/elbow, give the elbow a good turn, and then pop it back in. That simple. 5 minute job.

You will need a half-inch sharkbite disconnect clip. They're like $3 at home depot. almost always in stock.

Do you have one of those?https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-U710A-U710-Disconnect-Clip/dp/B008MG06EO

​

how to use those sharkbite disconnect clips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FDBaXBUPNg

​

good luck.

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 1 pointr/Plumbing

definitely get some info before you spend money on tools.

if 99% of what he does is PVC and PEX and copper, you can save a lot by not buying the pipe wrenches.

if he works with black iron or galvanized, he'll need the pipe wrenches.

a decent bag can go a long way to help too, but that's such a personal item it's hard to buy for him.

a good lunch box is a life saver.

a nice half mask respirator and some p100 filters is like $25 and can go a long way to encourage him to wear proper PPE. demo work is dirty. the box stores only carry medium or small, have to order online for a large.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator-6300-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B007JZ1MK6/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10cs-5-packs-3M-2091-particulate-filter-P100-for-6000-7000-series-respirator-US/123730577150?

the filters are 1/5th the price if you get them online VS the store. and he'll only need the p100 filters, not the cartridges, unless he's having to solder in restricted airflow environment, then he'll need cartridges.

his shop should provide PPE, but most small outfits seem to hand out crappy paper masks.

u/Leauxx · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Very true. I was thinking of buying a system like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GK23CBF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A31OY3X2HPIXMU&psc=1

I'm attracted to it for price, style, and that is has the valve included. I know going with a name brand like Moen or Kohler will have more parts I can mix and match...but they are so expensive!

u/jpzsports · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Thank you so much for the detailed response. I truly appreciate it! This is the filter that I am currently using: https://smile.amazon.com/PUREPLUS-Activated-Replacement-Cartridge-Compatible/dp/B01N2H2OO6 - any chance bacteria could grow on it? I had a water test done by the builder and here are the results: https://imgur.com/a/4HdfZRR - According to that, there was no bacteria it seems. If the cause is sulfur, do you agree with the air sulfur filter recommendation?

u/sowhat12 · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Installing new toilet (old one leaked a little and I wanted a new one anyway). From what I've read flange should be above the title somewhat but it is below. So it looks like they installed it wrong initially. What do I need to bring it up. Spacers/Extenders? Can anyone link to a specific product?


Edit - Well this conversation went sideways. I just installed a Danco "Perfect Seal" from Home Depot (because it didn't involve any drilling). Going ok so far.

u/mikeperr · 11 pointsr/Plumbing

Knipex 002006S1 3-Piece Cobra Pliers Set (7-Inch, 10-Inch, & 12-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X4KNTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_O5HerMerjQW2o

Tools are good. Don't know what he needs but these are the best pliers out there.

u/dinst · 3 pointsr/Plumbing

I would get him a these, seriously the best I've ever used and totally worth the money. A few companies have copied the push button design, but there is no comparison. Traditional toungue and groove pliers are so clumsy after using knipex.

Knipex get pretty rave reviews from people on YouTube if you want to see why it's worth paying 2x there price of channel locks.

Knipex 002006S1 3-Piece Cobra Pliers Set (7-Inch, 10-Inch, & 12-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X4KNTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mG5mybQPZEYZ4

u/ChesterCopperpotJr · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Can you tell me more about a deep seal bowl wax? I have this one - Next by Danco 10718X Perfect Seal Toilet Wax Ring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KHSLV2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_w0KizbC3HAC0Z

Thanks!

u/Suvalis · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Thanks! I think you may have put me on the right track. I went to the front hydrant and it had a different top, which tells me the back had been replaced before. It said Mansfield.

So I found this

https://www.prier.com/images/stories/documents/documents/Mansfield%20Stem%20ID%20Flyer.pdf

Looks like series 400 or 500 hydrant.

So I THINK this is what I need.

https://www.amazon.com/Prier-630-7500-Vacuum-Breaker-Service/dp/B00164C5IO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=31OZ7N0SI11GP&keywords=prier+630-7500+vacuum+breaker+service+parts+kit&qid=1562258968&s=gateway&sprefix=Prier+630%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-1

That being said, the white plastic piece looks a little different from the one I took a picture of..

u/sinfoman · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Here's the one I went with-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014X7B5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -- So far it's BRILLIANT. Had it for about 6 weeks now. Quiet, absolutely DESTROYS food, including fruit rinds (limes, etc.). Great product, little to no vibration. Thanks for all the advice on here everyone!

u/Cane_Skretteburg · 2 pointsr/Plumbing

these are old leaded flanges, my experience with cast iron and leaded flanges is rather limited due to my age and region. but the best way would be to replace the lead with newer cast iron if that's possible, or buy new flange plates that bolt to the existing floor.
this is a cast iron toilet flange that are much newer and the standard for cast iron applications :http://amzn.com/B001REGQXI
and this is more of a temporary flange you can use to repair what you have that will bolt to the floor: http://amzn.com/B000FHBGEC

u/Junkmans1 · 3 pointsr/Plumbing

Very easy 2 minute repair.

Pull off the metal cap on top which covers the vacuum breaker. It pulls straight off - might need a pliers. There will be a plastic piece that you need to tighten a little I think with a Phillips screwdriver.

If that doesn’t fix it then you need a new vacuum breaker kit called a Prier Mansfield Breaker Repair Kit model 630-7500 that has a replacement for the inside plastic pieces.. Runs under $10 and most hardware stores sell them.

https://www.amazon.com/Prier-630-7500-Breaker-Service-Original/dp/B00164C5IO

u/gobuckskris6 · 1 pointr/Plumbing

I use this when I’m changing a faucet. I’m not sure what yours looks like underneath but this has been my money maker.

Ridgid 57003 EZ Change Faucet Tool, Sink Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078YYD66B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fAx5BbRJYNJYY

u/Ass_Explosion · 1 pointr/Plumbing

If its a Fluidmaster 400a you can replace the washer in it and you should be cool, the washer is like $1-3 and it only takes about 30 seconds.

Fluidamster 400a

http://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-400A-Anti-Siphon-Toilet-Valve/dp/B00002ND6R/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1368984456&sr=1-1&keywords=fluidmaster+400

The washer

http://www.amazon.com/Lasco-04-7171-Toilet-Ballcock-Fluidmaster/dp/B000FH87GC


Replace the flapper/flush ball/flush disc when you do this, just because it"s most likely on it's way out as well

u/Xevitz · 2 pointsr/Plumbing

Hi, so the outside of my house floods and this is connected to the drain outside. The water level goes higher than the floor in the house (Doors are raised), but the water comes in from this drain.


Will something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Backflow-Preventer-Toilet-Bathroom-Silicone/dp/B075WRS7VW

u/broadrock · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Take with a grain of salt

I own a home with a basement/crawlspace drainage/underground spring situation. The sump pump I inherited with the house was always running at first. I installed a 4" pvc line that drains to the alley, plus added 6" gutters and downspout that is on the opposite end of the natural grade of the basement/crawlspace. Then installed This and everything is worry free now.

u/I-do-not-like-this · 3 pointsr/Plumbing

Looks like a Proper/Mansfield sillcock that needs a new vacuum breaker, the parts are less than $10.


https://www.amazon.com/Prier-630-7500-Vacuum-Breaker-Service/dp/B00164C5IO

u/orangebroccoli · 0 pointsr/Plumbing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009TCDZ2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A1PTZTHYRQJ1CT&psc=1

If you read the reviews, it looks like many people have used this pump as a washing machine pump.

u/Oneleggedstool · 1 pointr/Plumbing

well the fill valve will only hiss when it calls for water. Or its busted. Let it sit and see if the hissing stops, if it does stop over a long duration of time, try adjusting the float a little. If that doesn't work, its also time for a new ballcock.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002ND6R?pc_redir=1411222918&robot_redir=1
Also easily installed.