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Hi, there! I've used a ton of the impossible expired film in the past. Their expired 3 pack grab bag is one of my favorites! I love the experimenting and the learning! Hopefully I can help with some insight.

First, your film stock pile. I have tons of different film from over the years filling up my fridge as well so I know the joy and fear you are having. I am happy to say at least in my experience If you have kept them in the fridge the who time before use you are likely to get the same quality of picture that you would have if you had used that pack the day you got it. I just used their Lucky 8 film from its original release over a year plus ago and got results similar to what other did from it. That being said, I do try to rotate out older stuff as I see it just for peace of mind.

Second, when it comes to the expired stuff it really can be a crazy hit or miss, and I have no idea why. I've always wondered if it had something to do with certain batches or maybe how these packs have been stored by there individual distributors. During the IP holiday sale I bought some super cheap B&W Spectra film that expired in 2014 and it still delivered great shots. On the other hand the 600 Paradise Lost edition that are expired turn out red and over exposed every single time... And this is the only trend I've seen consistent, certain runs will give similar results. So if you have more of the same run I would expect something similar to happen. I would suggest taking what works well to get shots in this pack and be ready to apply it to another. For me the Paradise Lost was always red so I tired to shoot images that were more green to attempt to even it out. Again its hard to tell but what you got is not the sole experience of the expired film, you will find better results in some packs, some even look the same as brand new film.

As far as trying to work with with whats left of this pack, the best advice I can give is to play with it. It seems like you know quite a bit about what you are doing so keep pushing forward with new ideas. My own two cents would be to try darkening your exposure all the way past the 2/3 mark and and try some filters. And not those over priced mint ones either. Just make your own and hold or just tape them with masking tape to your camera for each shot. I made my own after watching this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THjOGKx9gfY

You could try and use the impossible filter pack too. I know you said you are already using the correct film in the correct camera but with they way they are looking it might help if you have a second pack to use; they are on Amazon. if you have a local camera store you might be able to get them cheaper, I think I got mine for 6.99

https://www.amazon.com/Impossible-ND-Filter-Twin-Pack/dp/B006HFW6OU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486313485&sr=8-1&keywords=impossible+filter

Good Luck and keep shooting!

Ha, my daughter's in NYC - she was living in sty-town but moving to Brooklyn.

I haven't tried the Art 300, but it's in stock at B&H - for some reason I'm thinking it only comes out every now and then? Haven't read of anyone succeeding with lith developer and the 300, though it is popular for 2nd pass lith. It may "sorta-lith" like MGWT, not sure. I've heard it's the same emulsion as MGWT but on nicer paper? The Harmon rep for North America posts on apug.org, I imagine there's more scoop there.

>Who cares if it is foggy? We are artists for goodness sake, there are reasons we like what we use.

Actually, fogged paper means you'll get no whites - your brightest highlight the paper is capable of will be the fog level (and that will be your brightest possible border as well) and usually paper that old will have reduced blacks as well. Since lith uses very long exposures and dev. times, the fog just doesn't render until well past your developing time (is how I think of it anyway) and you get killer blacks. With fogged paper and regular developer, you have to use restrainers, or make your print with the plan of bleaching it back some to kill the fog.

I'll tell you an outrageous darkroom book - Tim Rudman's "Master Printing Course". Fack me, the stuff in there is amazing!!! He's a master printer and a great teacher, and the techniques and ideas in this book are just over the top stuff, and lots of info and recipes for various bleaches and so on. Discontinued but plenty of used copies around. It's pretty much a must-have - and his toning book now goes for $100-$200 if you can even find one.

I sorta-used a Rudman technique for that old billboard sign print - the sky was just dead flat, so I got some ortho-litho film and made a high-contrast positive, and enlarged a neg of clouds on RC and contact printed the paper to make a film neg, everything at 11x14 - I registered everything to the baseboard with silkscreen register pins. So I had a "sandwich" of a silhouette of the sign & grass, with a neg of clouds - did the exposure without it, and then added it to make the clouds. Worked pretty good.

My next thing will be making a pin-registered negative carrier - so I can take the carrier out and return it, and it will always be in the same place. This is the only way to step up to contrast masks and so on, I'm no engineer but damn it, I have a drill press!

I just recently bought a thread adapter so I could use various filters on my 195. I think the 49mm one you linked to would the wrong size. The 180, 190 and 195 use a 45mm, but apparently it's also a finer thread than normal. The Heliopan ones are supposedly one of the few compatible adapters you can use. After seeing it recommended by others, I got this one: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/160285-REG/Heliopan_700222_45mm_49mm_Step_Up.html

I can confirm it fits both the 180 and 195 perfectly fine (though I tried to be gentle and not screw it in too tight). That LED ring light you linked to looks like it comes with a 49mm adapter already, but if you did want a 55mm thread, it looks like they do make a 45mm-55mm (hopefully it's designed the same way).

I'm pretty sure I have that same ring light for my DSLR, too. It works well for continuous lighting on macro shots, but I've never actually used the flash mode so I can't really comment on how powerful it is. The setup should work, but another option would be to just put a diffuser on a regular electronic flash like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Collapsible-Speedlight/dp/B01ERRQ802

You can use a wall, but you sometimes run into issues with that since it can pick up any reflections from the lights. You'll often see a lot of "hot spots" that get picked up in shots. You'd probably need to go with a specialty paint (non-glossy) to help eliminate that.

With that said, you can even shoot natural light (open window) with a wall, room, etc.. being it's own backdrop and not needing to spend any money on it.

If you want to go for the ceiling mounts, they make some great options -- I use this one: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5210-REG/Manfrotto_2961_Complete_AutoPole_Expan_Kit.html

This one sits nearly flush against a wall, has 2 poles that expand from floor to ceiling with rollers to throw paper onto.. but it's pricey.

If you're fine attaching things to the wall, this set is about 1/10th the price:
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-3-Roller-Mounting-Background/dp/B002P32990

Same idea, but it connects directly into the wall.. it has 3 rollers (so you can attach 3 different types of paper.. white/black/grey or any combination) and when you're done it all just rolls up to the ceiling (you pull the chain one way to move the backdrop down, the other to pull it back up)

Paper is good to get a nice variety - sometimes black is perfect, other times you might want to use a bright color or 'fun' colors with it instead.

I'm a polaroid fan but to be objective, if you are on a budget, fujifilm is a better bet for a new camera. Cameras are ~ $100 and film is much cheaper - more than 2x cheaper per shot than Polaroid and produce better quality that current polaroid originals film.

These are both great Instax cameras to give as gifts I think.

https://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-Instax-Classic-Instant-Camera/dp/B00FR85IRK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511380666&sr=8-5&keywords=instax+mini


https://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-Instax-Wide-300-Instant/dp/B00TGOWK3Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511380688&sr=1-3&keywords=instax+wide


I'd personally recommend the WIDE camera (second link) as the "mini" photos are just too small to be useful (to me at least). Mini camera (1st link) does have more options however. But both are better cameras than current iType OneStep 2 PO sells.



If you are going polaroid route, I'd say avoid plastic consumer cameras of the 90s. And even the new onestep2. They are just too basic and too cheap (i know I'll get flamed for this). In my opinion, there are 3 cameras that are really worth having from polaroid:

SX-70 (Model 1 and 2) •
680 SLR <-overall best pick but pricy •
Spectra SE/PRO (Or Minolta variant of the same).

If you don't mind gifting a used Polaroid camera and on a budget, Spectra SE sells on ebay for 20-50$ based on condition and it's all inclusive (no need for any add-ons), higher end camera that shoots larger format film. If you snag one for 40$ like I did, you will still have enough for 3 packs of film to go with it!

my 2 cents.

Congrats! Its said Steve Jobs used the SX-70 as part of his inspiration for a lot of apple designs. Its a sexy fantastic camera. My suggestion to start since impossible film is really picky at times would be to buy some expired film from them and just play with it and learn (its wayyyyy cheaper). Also when you do buy new film the Black and White 2.0 is a lot easier to use compared to color, so you will get better images right off the bat with less learning curve.

When you feel comfortable with it look into buying these filters they will allow you to use the 600 speed film in your camera. The only thing it will do is allow you to purchase more types of film and different frames. It helps when trying to find cheaper or sale film on Impossible Projects website.

This is something I've mentioned to PO--a serious lack of good, archival photo album. I don't like those ones with sticky pages, nor do I like those ones where the photos barely fit or are too loose. I want something nice looking and stable. Even those old Polaroid SX-70 albums aren't ideal because they're just paper pages with corner holders, so there's no covering protecting the images from finger prints.

So far, I have not been super successful. I have only tried two out so far, but here are my findings:

• Polaroid Photo Album for Zink
  
  This album feels ridiculously cheap and kind of crappy. Amazingly, it does fit Polaroid photos perfectly. The only downside is, because the new Polaroid Originals photos are pretty thick, it is a bit too snug to fit in the photos front-to back (two per sleeve) in order to reach the maximum storage capacity of 48 photos. I'm worried about the photos in the front and back of the album getting bent if I fill it all the way. Still, it works.
  
  

• Finite Wallet Photo Album for Instax Wide
  
  Decent build quality. It is pretty ideal for Instax Wide photos, and that's what I'm using it for, but I was surprised to see that Polaroid photos fit in there very well. The only downside is you have to put them in sideways so you'll have to hold the book horizontally and flip through it vertically if you want to view the photos. I don't really like that and prefer to flip through it like a book, but it's a decent album and would work in a pinch.
  
  
  There are a couple others on eBay that I've been thinking of trying. I'll probably make a post if I find the perfect, affordable album.

Again, failing to actually address the point of longevity - this is their competition mass produced, half the price per shot and affordable. 8 shots per pack for a price point on par with when they used to have 10 shots in a pack is not a successful transition or rebrand. It's not making good on their promise to lower prices and the fool hardy suggestion that it's art and people who care will pay more will not help them win. They have the most recognizable name but that name will not help them where they need it to. I know people who like the idea of polaroids, love them when they see me taking them but cannot afford to spend the money on getting into it as a serious hobby and that is the problem - if art is for everybody, how can we claim that they're even close to fulfilling that idea? I can support my purchases as I'm lucky enough to be able to afford it - but I'm not going to sit here and pretend this is a revolution or a success beyond corporate branding and an effort to make more money without actually bringing something beyond a new formulation to the table. They promised more shots per pack and price drops for years - we've seen nothing from them. So why pretend? I want them to succeed but they will never be able to in the long run if they don't seriously gear up for a way to lower the prices and increase access.

I have the instax mini.

Over time it's the cost of film that really matters, the cost of the camera will be negligible once you've taken 100 shots. Fujifilm Instax are the cheapest for film. It doesn't matter how much nicer the camera looks if you can't afford the film to use it! If you want the bigger film size you can always get the instax wide though that means the camera is bigger and less convenient to carry around (though so is the polaroid).

Do take into consideration the size of the camera itself. If you have to carry an extra bag around for it you're less likely to have it on you when you see something you want to shoot. The instax mini fits in my handbag, the other two would not. Google for pictures of people using them to get an idea of the size.

As for the smaller film, I considered that too but the truth is I'm never looking at my pictures from across the room anyway - they're in my hand when I look at them. Credit card size is plenty for that.

In conclusion i think the instax wide is a good compromise if the film size is important to you. The films for it are about US$16 for 20 (as opposed to US$50 for 16 for the polaroid) and they're comparable in size. Here's a comparison of the polaroid, instax mini and instax wide films.

BTW you could always get a groovy case to make it prettier.

Hi there!

I've posted this photo earlier today on my IG account and several people have asked me about the albums I use to store and sort my instant photos, so here it is. One thing to know first: I live in France so I'm going to give you the links I use as a French guy, you'll have to look for the items in your own country, and you might even find better things than what I use (especially in the US I reckon).

• For Instax Wide shots: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01GFQRB7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• For SX-70/600/FP-100C shots (it also works for Instant Wide photos): https://www.ebay.fr/itm/FS-Photo-Album-for-Polaroid-600-SX-70-Impossible-Fuji-210-FP-100C-Instant-Film/261597716765
  
• And for Spectra I bought this huge binder ("We R Memory Keepers") https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00161S5B8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and these sheets: https://www.scrapmalin.com/scrapbooking/p-photo-sleeves-12-x-12-10-pochettes-compartimentees-4-x-4-232306.html
  
• I've also ordered this for my Instax Mini shots, it's still on its way: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B075F46T55/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Personally I don't like fancy albums, I'm looking for something simple/efficient but to be honest, I'd love to have them all look as great as the big binder I use for Spectra shots but I cannot find the proper sheets... so annoying!

I had a few of these Archival Binder Boxes left over from my high school photo days. When paired with these C-line Binder Photo Storage Pages you have a tidy archival solution for your Wide shots. The equivalent I use for Mini shots in the same binders are these Print File Negative Sleeves. One thing to note is that neither set of sleeves is made for these format of photos. I can fit two shots in each pocket comfortably. The aspect ratio isn't exact for either type of sleeve so there is the smallest bit of play. The archival boxes are clutch here because they prevent the photos from coming free out the top of the page which would be a danger if you put these in a regular binder.

It's not as glamorous as a photo album but it keeps the dust and light out and still lets me flip through and browse.

Unrelated but hopefully helpful: The Google Photos team just launched PhotoScan. Before you load these pages up you can tear through the traditionally long process of digitizing instant film with this app. Not the same as sending them away to be digitized but it's free and gets you 90% of the way I would say.

If you're price conscious on film I would shy away from any of the 600 series cameras. $25-30 for 8 shots? Not worth it if you want to actively shoot with it.

If you don't like the mini form factor, you could also consider an instax wide. the pros are the film is cheap, it's wider than the OG square polaroid film which some people like too. (cheaper than the instax mini film even) but the cons are the camera itself is HUGE.

I personally have the mini 25, and have been enjoying using it more as an out with friends, or throw it in my bag camera. For more artistic stuff I use a Polaroid Land and FP100c film (8.99 for 10 shots) If you can go that route I would do that for cost. The cons of pack film is you can't just throw it in your pocket after you peel it, you have to wait for it to dry first.

I have this Fuiji Instax camera. It works awesome. And you can buy film for it via amazon. Its not as awesome as the good old Polaroid 600 type, but it is a great equivalent, although a bit big. But has a nice set of features.

Just got a Instax mini 8 yesterday, it's fun to shoot on but the auto shutter speed and auto flash kind of bug me. I much prefer to shoot on my "Cool-Cam" Polaroid 600. I think the small/wide or tall format of the Instax mini 8 prints are pretty interesting and give the opportunity for wide angle shots if you turn your camera 90°'s, but all in all with the butt-loads of automated things on the camera it can become a hassle to shoot with.


Love the photo too! I find it tough to get darker prints on the Instax mini 8.

This manual should work for you if you don't have one. This uses 600 type film and can be found at Polaroid Originals or places like Amazon and such. The battery is in the film pack so the camera will not function until you insert the film pack. The current film is not exactly like the original stuff that was discontinued around 2006. It's a bit faster (more sensitive to light) than the original so you'll likely need to adjust the lighten/darken control a bit to darker. The new film is also a bit sensitive to light when it is first ejected unlike the original stuff. They sell an extended light shield to help cover the film for a bit when first ejected. Otherwise quickly shield a new print in a pocket or something for a few minutes at first.

The best thing I could find is this
Fintie Wallet Photo Album. I ordered one and the photos fit snuggly in there. I like it alot but probably not great for bulk storage as it's fairly compact.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G81BZTB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xGrIDbCVASCRZ

But yeah, I wish Photo File made a correct fitting sheet.

Instax makes a photo printer.

​

Impossible Project made one for polaroid film for a minute a few years ago but I don't believe they make them anymore.

Best bet is ; https://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-INSTAX-SP-2-Printer-Silver/dp/B01GTKG6RA

These look great! Do you have any resources for albums for Instax square shots? This https://www.amazon.com/CAIUL-Pockets-Instax-Fujifilm-Instant/dp/B07412FKGP is the only thing I've found and it's kind of tacky.

Shipped and sold by Amazon via Polaroid originals. I contacted Amazon and they just told me to file a return and have a new one sent out.

http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-Instax-Wide-300-Instant/dp/B00TGOWK3Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458217584&sr=8-1&keywords=instax+wide+300