(Part 2) Best products from r/PrintedMinis

Anything slightly transparent doesn't come out very well in my experience. The quality of the print is okay, but I think sort of a matte finish really brings out the crispness of a print, you can see the angles and shadows and stuff clearly. This filament (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HYYPMAM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I've been pretty content with so far, but I actually haven't printed minis with it, I've just noticed a nice matte finish on some dungeon tiles. My all time favorite mini plastic is from http://villageplastics.com, which we use at my work, but I'm tried to order some for personal use and it looks like they might only do bulk sale, so you'd have to buy a couple rolls. But this filament has an excellent excellent finish. Here's a couple mini prints with that second filament https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedMinis/comments/7w805f/some_heroforge_minis_printed_at_work_super_happy/

1. I use auto generated supports, but I use Chitubox for my slicing software
   
   
2. I think there is a google spreadsheet running around here that had good setting for the different resins. I’m on mobile so I can’t find it.
   
   Edit: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app#gid=0
   
   
3. People will tell you both. I prefer to take them off before it cures because it’s more malleable and doesn’t “shoot off” when I clip off the supports. It also clears the way so that the mini itself can get into the sunlight and be cured. But I’m sure there are people out there that will tell you to remove them after curing. Either way I fine I believe.
   
   
4. It’s also better to angle your minis when printing. 45 degrees on its back, so that the front of the minis has less supports (or none). Also whenever I print flat I had more failures for some reason.
   
   
5. Have fun! I love mine!
   
   Also to remove supports buy one of these and use the flat side towards the mini itself:
   
   Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Edit: just realized I didn't explicitly state that I was using the mp select mini. But yes, that is my printer

I realize this isn't a realistic option for many, but I've had fantastic success printing out minis with simplify3d. Super easy to use, and with some decent tweezer pliers removing any excess material in those nooks and crannies is extremely easy. Here is what I printed out an hour ago, just after removing the bulk of the supports.

Hey I havent done any minis with leds (yet) but when I do I would most likely go with these as they're super tiny you can wire them with conductive thread and power them with something like a coin battery.

They are super bright and pretty affordable, the battery doesnt last super long if you have it in constantly but they're also pretty cheap.

Printed on an Upmini2 at .15 layer height with a .4 nozzle with Monoprice ABS Plus Purple (bought at $7.99!). My smallest and most detailed print I've done so far! So happy with the results.

Model is Bjorn Steeleblood (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3472638) by Claudio_Setti_Studio!
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(below was response to my Original post)

People are asking what I do to vapor smooth!

Well, about two hours before this post, I went to walmart and grabbed a Big jar with a metal screw lid. Jar was about 5 bucks or so. Then, I folded up 5 or so paper towels and put them in the jar along the side, holding them in place with a piece of cardboard from an amazon box lid. While any cardboard will do, free range cardboard is best. Pour your acetone into the jar a little at a time till the paper towels are pretty wet, rolling around the jar to make sure nothing drips on your part.

When you're ready to smooth, lie the jar top down with threads facing up and put your part in the center. Lower your jar over the top and screw it down very loosely. That keeps the vapor from coming out without having to use water like the vase methods. Or so that's my thinking. Either way, I let it sit for 15-30 min. Take off the jar CAREFULLY without knocking over or scraping the print. The acetone vapor melts the outside of it, so it's kinda malleable. After that, let it dry for an hour somewhere where it won't get dust on it and set your jar outside so you don't die.

It's important to let it dry fully because that's where most of the smoothing seems to happen.

Here's some pictures of my jar with a bonus Ditto I did last night! The Ditto is so dang smooth I can't get it fully dust free, so sorry about that!


Edit: Any suggestions on improving would be appreciated! Also, am I able to sand things first or will it show up after being smoothed? I noticed the peaks of things still have a slight lip to them, but worried that if I sand it first, the awesome finish would be ruined.

For storage, a good google search would be divided storage box.. Look for grid size and make sure it's big enough to hold decent size minis. This one looks good, if big.

For modification, most of the time "3D Builder"(free program from Microsoft) is good enough to make these kinds of modifications. It's faster for simply modifications\actions and easy to learn. If it's more complex MeshMixer (Autodesk - also free) is the next program to learn\use to modify models. Like add a cylinder, shrink, rotate, stretch so now the spear staff or sword grip is at least 1.5mm diameter(2mm is better) to give the printer something to actually print. 1mm is asking for breakage. Pay attention to the print output view in the slicer for small details see how fragile some things are printed and see if you can do something about it. Easiest thing in slicer is to just scale the whole model to the sizes I suggested.

Also, use less brittle filament. PLA+ or PLA PRO is more likely to take the stress and flex rather than snap. I like eSun.

I think the most obvious improvement would be to decrease the layer height because the layer lines are very visible, at what layer height did you print?

For Cleanup i use a file set like this https://www.amazon.de/B20206-Feilenset-Mini-6-teilig/dp/B00AF0KT9M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536922382&sr=8-3&keywords=feile

But i must say it's a solid start already, good luck with further printing and running SKT! (Im starting it too atm, it's a really cool campaign if you ask me)

Its a great printer. Upgrade your springs and get an aluminum extruder. Those two things were so cheap, but definitely made a difference for me. I use a glass bed with a PEI sheet and have been very happy with it. I use eSun PLA Pro for my minis. Check out Tomb of 3d Printed Horros for their cura profiles and tips!

On a budget, there are three great choices for Mini Printing:

Anycubic Photon (not Photon S)

Elegoo Mars

Epax X1

Angus did say in his video on the Elegoo Mars that they are going to release a new version in the next few weeks. So, the current one may go even lower in price.

Check the forms here for info on each printer.

ETA: These are all DLP printers and the screens will need to be replaced every so often. Also, if you want the best quality minis, you would have to go to a true SLA. But there are no budget true SLA printers. They start with the Peopoly Moai at about $1,300.

DLP vs SLA

We have a 10s, but the same basic upgrades apply. Your goal is to increase stability and repeatability.

Springs:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M7MP2FC/

They're longer than the originals, and much stiffer. We went from having to relevel every print to never touching it once we had it dialed in.

Mirror bed:

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lots-mirror-39151700/

Replaced the glass bed with one of these. Huge improvement over the original bed, especially since it meant we could swap out build plates without touching the leveling. Just unclip, remove old plate, add new plate. Wash with dish soap and water, wipe down and air dry.

Tools and parts for Petsfang:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1H3Z8X/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXRNYNX/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/

These and whatever M screw set floats your budget are all you need to print and install the Petsfang.

Looks like it has gone up $20 in the past few weeks

anycubic site

[amazon link](ANYCUBIC Photon UV LCD 3D Printer Assembled Innovation with 2.8’’ Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53”(L) x 2.56”(W) x 6.1”(H) Printing Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVW9HGH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pzfRDb2X4EQPC)

Tamiya fine surface primer is a really thin primer that I'm using for my resin minis, does a good job of not filling in all the fine details.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WS01E/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_Ef6TDbK9HYY3F

That same product has been renamed/rebranded several times over the years.

Good thing though, once you buy a bottle you won't need to buy another one for probably 20 years :)


And yes, Pledge Revive It floor gloss. I grabbed some at Walmart, but it's available all over.


https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C

EPAX X1 UV LCD Resin 3D Printer with 3.5 inch Touch Screen, Build Volume 115mm (L)65mm (W)155mm (H) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L2GDBMN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_X7dZDbSKEPKR2

Pretty sure its asked on this one

The stats on that machine aren't anything better than what other manufacturers offer. My suggestion? Get either the Anycubic Photon or the Moai.

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B078N2TSYS

$450 off Amazon with the instant coupon.

or

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/peopoly-moai-laser-sla-3d-printer-fully-assembled/sk/M2513KLL

They sell a fully assembled version or the unassembled version MUCH cheaper.

Both of these systems have a large and active community. Both can use a wide variety of resins as well. The Moai has a bigger build plate and should mechanically last longer. Both will require you to replace the FEP film in the Vat. Which I managed to buy two square feet of it from McMaster Carr for $30 shipped. Both will print to the level of detail you need. The print files on the Moai are Gcode and therefore can use open source slucing software, the photon will have to be sliced in their program but prepping can be done elsewhere. The Moai will be slower to print because it uses a laser/galvo vs the Photon's LCD DLP.

I own two machines one of which is a Photon. I plan on purchasing the Moai 200 when it comes out this month as well. If there is anything else I can answer for you just ask!

I've successfully used carbon conductive spray paint on resin prints to create a conductive surface to electroplate.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OA931A

Gorilla Super Glue Gel

Yeah, when it is not in stock, it wont show on searches. Here you go. Also, there is an elegoo mars facebook group. People will post when they are in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2ZHMRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K1knDbM62JQ0F

Anycubic Photon down to $339.49 CAD on Amazon Canada

And $439.99 for the S.

And I just pulled the trigger on one!

Amazon. Some have gotten one for $250. I just bought one the other day for $260. They are selling out every time they restock within minutes. But as of this exact moment, they are in stock. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B07K2ZHMRF/P_dp_buy_opt?

Got it from amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/235x235x3mm-Borosilicate-Glass-Polished-Creality/dp/B07FRM5SR7/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1564540201&s=industrial&sr=1-13

Are you using US amazon? I see 16 in stock (Prime) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078N2TSYS/

It's back at $299 ($339 with a $40 coupon) if you hurry.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078N2TSYS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1A5FQE7R5RISB&psc=1

I got mine through Amazon (currently $256 US).

There are some additional costs to be aware of though.

1. Resin (~$40): I'm using Elegoo Grey
   
2. 99% IPA (~$3) For cleaning prints
   
3. UV Light (~$30) for curing
   
4. Gloves (~$10) It comes with some, but you'll be replacing those quickly
   
5. Ventilation (~$100) depending on where you're printing.
   
   It can add up if you're not careful. So plan for an additional $200.