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First off, using an ATX power supply is not a mod. That is the original intended power supply for the Printrboard. There is a socket for the six-pin video card power plug right on the board. In fact, the barrel socket power port is just a jumper to that socket and must be unplugged to upgrade to an ATX power supply.

Some ATX power supplies do require a short bit of wire running from the green wire on the large connector to any black wire on the connector before they will turn on, but that isn't scary, is completely reversible, and isn't even required on all power supplies. You can buy a premade jumper for precisely that purpose. Some ATX power supplies even include the jumper connector.

Now to answer your original question: You are looking for a 12 volt power supply with an ampere rating of 6 amps or more and a 2.1mm X 5.5mm, center positive, barrel style plug. Something like this one should work for you.

Let me be clear in why I prefer the ATX power supply. The ATX power supply is SAFER than the smaller barrel plug power supply. If I was going to run my Printrbot and leave the house for a while, I would feel much better using the ATX power supply. For fire safety, the ATX power supply is the better choice. Sure, the wiring harness looks a bit like an octopus, but a few zip-ties or velcro wraps will tame that beast.

I contacted PrintrBot about this and while I didn't get an answer about repairing the 13, they are shipping me a 13S. So props to PrintrBot support! The 13S construction appears to be all-metal up into the extruder block (I guess transferring heat to the extruder turned out not to be a big deal?) which means that weak spot is eliminated. They also sell parts for the 13S, unlike the 13, so I can fix things going forward if need be. It uses the same tips, so my tip collection is safe. I'll lose about 35C of heating capability (270C max on the PTFE-lined 13S vs 305C max on the all-metal 13), but if it is compensated for by reliability it will be well worth it. I don't print any exotic or filled materials, but I do print PETG and Nylon on occasion which can get up around 250C depending on the blend. As an example, as the injection-molded plastic clamps holding the linear bearings on my Play have cracked, I've replaced them with more pliable and stronger nylon replacements that I printed myself. To compensate against meltdowns I think I'll move up to a more reliable 40mm fan on the heatsink. I'll probably print the below duct in PETG, since it is more heat-resistant than PLA:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1640957

And I'll use the best 40mm fan I can find:

https://www.amazon.com/40x10mm-Bearing-Premium-Cooling-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

Still haven't figured out a lower fan solution that would work with the above on the Play, yet.

The 10-pin AVR ISP connector is similar to the 6-pin, it just has a lot more ground pins. You'll need to make/buy an adapter to convert the connector down to a 6 pin.

Here's an instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/Programming-adapter-from-10-pin-to-6-pin-for-AVRs/

Or for US $5 you can buy one from eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USBASP-USBISP-AVR-Programmer-USB-10-Pin-Convert-to-Standard-6Pin-Adapter-Board-/180980285082 This also includes another programmer

Amazon Prime: http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Board-AVRISP-USBASP-STK500/dp/B00FHHYJ7G

Lots of options to get down to 6 pins.

I don't know what bootloader the AVR on the printerboard uses, but Printrbot does have bootloading instructions on their web site. You may be able to discern from that site what bootloader is on your board. Printrbot support also seems to be quite good in my experience, you may be able to just email them asking for instructions on how to load the bootloader back onto the board.

Why do you think the bootloader is corrupt? A well built bootloader is pretty robust.

I'm going to try this on a print tomorrow, thanks for all the advice!

Edit:
Wanted to add, it wasn't Kevlar tape, it is kapton tape, this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BX49P8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried blue printers tape but it never stayed down. The tape on the bed now is the first sheet I put on, and I have attempted at least 12 prints on it so far.

Ninja edit: Im printing with PLA. Currently I have my extruder set to 208, and my bed at 50. Does this sound about right or am I really off? The successful prints I have had I've had really stick, like I have to give them a good knock to get it off the bed.

Get a sheet of PEI and attach it with some 3M tape. It's the best print surface you can have. Just wipe it with alcohol every once in a while, but that's about it. Sticks when it's hot, and the parts pop right off when it cools down.

They have them precut with adhesive for Lulzbot Mini that just happens to fit SM built plate perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018G59AOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_zlI6wbHVCS6WN

I wasn't able to print ABS until I got this installed.

Not a bad idea, I do get a noticeable sound sometimes that is less than present, but nothing earth shattering. Is there a recommended oil beyond, say, WD-40? Should I do this to the threaded rods of the Z as well?

EDIT: Did some searching and bought this stuff as I found a number of threads saying not to use WD-40 like I initially thought..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MU1GEY/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't vouch that it's the same, but there is a lot of good info additionally in this thread you should check out including an inductive sensor thawkins believes is better suited to the task. If I was willing to ditch the glass bed I'd be going this route I believe.

http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=6812

I've been through two rolls from them; one black, one glow in the dark. It's good filament, but nothing really special.

I'm currently using some stuff I got off of amazon and it's great.

The filament: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQK4NTO

Something printed with that filament: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:112746

you can get a nice 12v power supply on amazon ===http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ENFBXQS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
dont have to worry about anything ,i think they are under $30
i have a heated bed too ,takes care of it all

Nope. It was easy to install and its really easy to print from. If your comfy following some simple instructions using the command line you'll be fine. I still slice with Slic3r, I just use the stand alone program then upload the gcode to Octoprint.

By default the Octoprint package from Printrbot expects you to plug in a Ethernet cable so I would recommend getting a Edimax Wireless USB Adapter so the whole thing is actually wireless. The process for setting up this USB adapter with the Rasp Pi and Octoprint is pretty well documented. This way the only two cables you have are one USB for power to the Rasp Pi, and another USB going to the back of the Printrbot.

This is the heater I bought:

http://www.amazon.com/150x150mm-Silicone-Rubber-Heater-Printer/dp/B00I50G42A

Another option I didn't mention is to get a separate, adjustable voltage power supply and feed higher voltage to the bed heater PCB alone via a relay. Even a 24V power supply is probably safe here, though I would encourage you to do the math and use your own judgement to be sure. You could use the stock laptop power supply to run the printer itself.

If you do end up needing a replacement. This is the one I got. Works great and not too bad of a price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYSWXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I didn't have that problem with my Matrix Precision bed and the cheap heat pad that I bought on Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I50G3IK ). It wasn't perfectly flush - it's not flush where the wires come out - but it was pretty close. Close enough for me anyway.

I ran the wires out the front - not sure how everyone else did it, but that's how I did it. I have about 20 hours of prints on it with the MP kit and this heated bed and it hasn't had a problem.

Put a fan on it... My extruder was getting 'too-hot-to-touch' after 30-45 minutes of printing so I got this fan and zip tied it to the extruder. Now after the same 30-45 minutes of printing, the extruder is 'cool-to-the-touch'!

I don't believe ATX power supplies have to be a mod, do they? The Printrboard has an ATX 6 pin port right on it, so then all you need is the connection on the mainboard connector to make it think there's a board there. That can be a diy project, but you can also buy premade ones like this

Edit: I can spell, really.

you could always just buy a USBtinyISP and program the chip directly bypassing the bootloader. That would be a sure way to figure it out.

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Here's something that you should check, did you correctly install the drivers for the printrboard when it's in bootloader mode? As far as I remember they don't install by default, you have to point the device at the Atmel FLIP folder in program files to install the drivers for DFU mode.

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https://www.amazon.com/TinySine-USBtinyISP-AVR-Programmer-Arduino/dp/B00N8EVQ30/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549155323&sr=1-7&keywords=usbasp

I did one like this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I50G42A?pc_redir=1414374074&robot_redir=1

I like it, but I can't recommend it over a "normal" pcb-type bed. The only real advantage it has is that the thermistor is embedded in the heating pad.

You could switch to one of the 12V LED supplies like http://amzn.com/B00D7CWSCG and it wouldn't have all the extra cables.