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Yep, the DIY is entirely solder based. Its literally basic aeronautical/electronic engineering when designing a quad. The thing is they break pretty easy with beginners flying and doing the building, let alone a bunch of kids.

If your going to do this I would recommend looking into tiny whoops for the kids to get into. They are super cheap and can be modified almost to the scale of a full miniquad except on a much smaller scale. They can be fully tuned and modified as heavily as you want and the kids would get the basic concept of how a quadcopter works. You can just buy all the parts for them and teach them how to assemble them. Assembly requires no soldering unless your installing a camera or new power connectors. They are super fun for beginners and can be built pretty tough. They don't go super fast but they can be modified heavily to make them zip, which makes them safe yet fun. They don't hold up amazing outside, but they do pretty good. Since they are so small you can make super fun indoor tracks with loops for them to fly though. Just flying around a house becomes a big jungle gym when your that small.

For tiny whoops you really just need the following parts
Frame - This frame is not designed for the whoops, but with a couple snips of the battery holder and some foam inserts it becomes one of the best. Its also cheap...

Flight controller These flight controllers will give you the functionality of full mini quad running betaflight. This will allow you to fully configure and tune them on your computer allowing you an opportunity to teach them how a flight controller works. I would recommend looking up Joshua Bardwell's youtube channel and looking at his PID tuning classes. I won't get into the details but PID (proportional integral derivative) tuning is the mathematical filtering your flight controller is doing behind the scenes. Your flight controller is taking in information from its measurement devices (acceloromiter, gyroscope, and sometimes even barometers) and running it against the values you give it to check for divergence of error from the desired values and compensating for it by applying filters. Basically it allows you to make your quadcopter fly the way you want it to fly. You can make it fly loosy goose or like an automated robot and almost every quadcopter made uses this type of system behind the scenes. Do note that the larger the quad the more you can work with in terms of the software controlling the system. These tiny whoops can be locked in with tuning but you have to remember they still only weigh like 10 grams.

Motors These motors are the best in the sense of range of performance. If you got some of these sample packs you can mix and match motors to show what a motor with higher kv does compared to one thats lower. Higher kv on these motors = more power but more power draw and less flight time. This is also effected by the propellers you are using.

Props The frame comes with some props but you can lose them pretty easy. Nothing really special about these but they get the job done. Also it helps to chop off two of the blades on each prop to make them more efficient for a little power loss.

Extras-- I don't know if your looking to get into fpv with the kids but the whoops are able to support a small camera and you can fly them with with either a monitor or goggles. This stuff can be found on tiny whoops website or youtube. If you need any help selecting stuff feel free to message me.

Other necessities--
Radio Your gonna need a radio and I'm not sure how to make this cheaper. Radios are really just something most people only buy one of and they spare no expense if they use it a lot. The only cheaper radio on the market that is worth looking at is the flysky radios, but I'm not sure if they would work with the acrowhoop board. You have to have an frsky radio for a frsky board or a spektrum radio for a spektrum board for these.

This got kinda long so I'm gonna cut it here. If you need any help just let me know.

I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.

For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.

Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016Y5U1JO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.

Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W8YYMZA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLYVZUpL0K0

Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5

To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.

http://www.frsky-rc.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793

Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.

Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.

Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABQS7YI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.

Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HTH78W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.

Battery charger for 4S batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LH3392/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XBSBYCG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WV04P62/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.

Voltage monitor:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XP4IO88/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBP1RGG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NP1JQC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.

Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.

Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.

Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010HKEDPK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.

ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.

Atmel socket flashing tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2W467I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Atmel USB programmer:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051SRZWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.

USB cable for simulators:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3zr8o0/cheap_fpv_acro_simulator_with_real_transmitters/

Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.

So, you've asked a whole slew of questions here. I'll try and answer as best as I can...

First, what you're describing in your build is basically a 'classic' design. The standard 'QAV-250' configuration. This is all fine and good, but just FYI, most designs have moved into a different class - with more integrated electronics, brushless motors, and smaller frame sizes. Having said that, I love the 250 form factor, and it is extremely easy to work on. I've built several so far. If you're interested in where most of the work is happening, look at 180-ish sized frames.

> A250 Carbon fiber frame: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/a250-carbon-fibre-racing-frame.html

This is a pretty standard form, on the classic design. Good start.

> ImmersionRC Tramp HV for VTX: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalog/product/view/id/67418/s/tramphv-v2-us-version

ImmersionRC is well known and well established, this should be fine. I'm glad it's a multiple output power version. Many races are now limiting the max output you can use (usually 25mw).

> 4 Afro 30A racespec ESC: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/afro-30a-race-spec-mini-esc-w-opto.html I think 30A would probably be a bit overkill since I see most people putting 12 and 20A ESC's in theirs. Im used to Fixed wing flying and usually bigger is better is what I'm used to for longevity sake.

You're right on this one. 30A is suitable for pushing hard at 4S. But for a discrete ESC, that's fine. In all honesty, any basic ESC that has the capacity you need should be fine. However, you should really consider going brushless.

> BetaFlight F4 FC: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalog/product/view/id/66386/s/betaflight-f4-flight-controller-stm32f405-mcu-integrated-osd
> Matek PDB: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalog/product/view/id/66400/s/matek-pdb-xpw-w-current-sensor-140a-dual-bec
> 4 EMAX RS2205 2300KV motors

All fine, caveat previous notes regarding brushless motors. They are more efficient, higher power, and lighter. They are the new hotness, and going by what I'm seeing out in the field, where everyone is going.

> And a RunCam Swift 2: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalog/product/view/id/64541/s/runcam-swift-2-ntsc-black

Like I said, this is straight down the party line... from a year or two ago (short of the newer FC).

Something you might want to consider is looking at newer integrated stacks. You can get FC, ESC and PDB all in one package now, and get good performance and ease of build. It does have the drawback of 'if something goes wrong, you lose the whole thing', but we're not talking zillions of dollars. Case in point:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT8TWXI

This is an F3 based complete FC, ESC, and PDB, with OSD and camera hookups, for $93. I had no problems soldering everything together, and it saves a LOT of weight and complexity on the build.

> I was thinking of using bullet connectors for those parts. This would allow me to swap ESC's and Motors on the fly if needed. Is there any particular reason why I should avoid this and do direct soldering? Is there any benefit other than consistent connection?

Weight. Bullet connectors are HEAVY. And you still have to solder them together. The numebr of times I've had to take apart a motor / ESC connection and replace them does not justify the connector weight. Just desolder / cut out the old component, and solder a new one in.

> Another reason this confuses me is because what happens if you have a hard crash and it rips an arm off. Maybe its the plane guy in me but wouldn't it make since for things to disconnect on impact versus rip out connections?

You're mounting on a carbon fiber frame. If you smash into a tree hard enough to rip off one of those arms, you're going to damage a lot more than just a motor connector. Not worth it.

Hope this helps, feel free to followup if you have any questions!

Edit: added details on brushless configurations.

Do yourself a favor and master this before diving into building a quadcopter. The hubsan is the best mini quad for the money hands down. Do not bother with the cheerson cx-10, it has unreliable signal in my experience even at very close range among other cons.

I have a hard time believing you'll be able to squeeze a custom build with transmission to your phone out of $300 even if you have a radio controller already.

My advice is maybe a phantom 2 or 3 for ~$500. It will route video straight to the DJI app in your phone. A custom quadcopter is going to be a bit more tricky to get onto your phone and you're more likely to be sending it into FPV goggles.

If you don't go the DJI route you will have to buy an RC controller/vrx/battery charger/figure out a way to view the video feed/etc. The cost can really get out of hand. I bought an Immersion RC Vortex after outgrowing the hubsan and after all the basics I needed I had spent well over $1000.

All in all, until you have 2x/3x as much of a budget go with the hubsan. Good luck!

If you're looking for a super budget quad, the Cheerson Cx-10 is super fun!

https://www.amazon.com/Eachine-700TVL-System-Degree-Transmission/dp/B00WHHM6KG/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1473051565&sr=1-2-fkmr2&keywords=Eachine+700tvl+ET200

And BTW when you fly a quadcopter you have to get good at soldering. Buy a good soldering iron and just practice on wires and connecting them. GREAT SOLDERING IRON-->

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRC2XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks again for the help. Went with another battery as suggested. Another commenter suggested this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF3B5Q7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Perfect flight and stable power output.

That's my second quad. (UDI 818 was first). The camera is not particularly good, but the quad is a decent starter one. It's not really meant for outdoors. I flew mine outside (Christmas Day last year) and saw it go flyaway when the wind picked up a bit.

This one is small, but it is FPV, and in your price range
http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Quadcopter-FPV-Camera-Toy/dp/B00GSNWB5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450561481&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+fpv

I've been doing it for a year, and it's great fun.

Depends - does he have any experience flying quads? I think it's a good idea to learn to fly with something cheap. I started with the Hubsan H107L X4 Mini RTF RC Quadcopter. I bought the quadcopter, a crash pack, a prop guard, and some extra batteries for about $100, and it has treated me pretty well. I think Hubsan has a similar model with a camera, but I don't have any experience with it.

If your dad has experience flying and/or you're looking for something a little fancier, I won't be much help. Good luck!

The H107C was my first quadcopter and I was perfectly happy with it, do note though that they have 2 versions of the camera, one is 0.3MP and one is 2MP. The one you linked is the lesser quality one so it will have lower quality video.

The H107C is sort of small so it may not do well outside, I would go with something like the Syma X5C which is bigger and has a decent camera for the price.

As far as accessories go if he is new I would pick up some extra props and some extra batteries .

Honestly, at that price point, you're best off going with the Hubsan x4 H107L


Here's an amazon link if u want:

Hubsan X4 (H107L) 4 Channel 2.4GHz RC Quadcopter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hVuFybV3D6TR6

I don't know about custom/hobby ones that small, but I have one from Amazon and it flies pretty stable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXZC762/

Wow! Great find! /s

Hubsan's site is down atm... It didn't get a Reddit hug, did it?

Amazon link -- $159

Yeah the Hubsan x4s are a lot of fun, and sturdy as hell.

First whats your experience...zero?

Get something like the Syma X5C-1. It's big enough to be stable but small enough to learn on.

Syma Toys X5C-1 Explorers 4 CH Remote Control Quadcopter, 2015 Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WH0ITJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_2GEFwbWXJ23RE

Get yourself a few extra batteries as well

Teenitor 3.7V 600mAh 20C Lipo Battery(4PCS) with 4 In 1 X4 Battery Charger for Syma X5 X5C Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LK0DY3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_rHEFwb3JGZDW0

Once you learn to be smooth with your controls and really know the vehicle movement in and out move up to something that can handle a bigger payload and carry a HD camera like a X8C or even a Cheerson CX-20 with GPS.

This is a little above the price range you mentioned, but it's got EVERYTHING, including the FPV goggles.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/nano-qx-fpv-rtf-with-safe-technology-blh7200

Or, you can get a sightly more fancy Hubsan with integrated camera and view screen.
http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107D-FPV-Mini-Quadcopter/dp/B00GSNWB5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1420941353&sr=1-1&keywords=hubsan+fpv

I learned to fly on a Hubsan, great little quads to learn on.

I don't have a drone yet but from the ones I've looked at the Syma x5sw has most of what you require. The Hubsan x4 is smaller, more expensive, and doesnt seem to connect to your phone. If you want, you could go with one with a little more lift like the syma x8 or the tarantula and then upgrade with an fpv camera package of your choosing. Theres also lots of options in building your own from the frame up but that can get pricy.
I guess the biggest question is what are you going to be using your drone for?

The camera is kinda crappy. Like novelty crappy. It's pretty much unwatchable because there is no gimbal to stabilize the shot.

Have you seen this? It's pretty clever. The resolution is better and you get the advantage of flying with FPV. The price is right. Quality of recordings is so-so because again, no gimbal but otherwise it's not bad.

I was looking at this one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013HQCK88/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458673210&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=syma+x5c+fpv+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41to6J6rd4L&ref=plSrch (sorry about the huge link) it seems to have good overall reviews. Ill look at the onenyou suggested though!

Not going to be the best but very available - Syma X5C-1 - Banggood/Gearbest/Amazon/Aliexpress.

You can get a very basic 5.8ghz FPV setup going with http://amzn.com/B00MNG37C2 and http://amzn.com/B013HQCK88 - Its Toy grade but can get you started on an expensive hobby.

Great! But seriously before you build your QAV, go buy a cheap "beater" quadcopter that you can learn to fly on. Fpv is hard and will be even harder if you begin not knowing how to fly at all. Go buy what everyone recommends: the Hubsand X4. When you can crash on your first flight it'll be with a 40 dollar quad instead of a $300+ build.

Hubsan X4 (H107L) 4 Channel 2.4GHz RC Quadcopter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_PBRQwbYK710HY

Forget the $20 savings. It could also be a total waste of if it doesn't work. I've looked more into this FY326... and it looks like in early 2015 it had very solid and long range electronics. But that has been switched to a cheaper and unreliable radio system in newer versions. Does not seem worth the risk.

Plus it looks like it's only $10-$15 more for the X5c (at least on amazon). Syma x5C $41:

• http://www.amazon.com/SYMA-Explorers-6-Axis-Quadcopter-Camera/dp/B00MNG37C2/
  
  If cost is that much of an issue...
  
  The Syma X11 is similar in size to the Hubsan x4 for $25. Same batteries as the classic Hubsan x4:
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/SYMA-Syma-X11-Quadcopter-Red/dp/B00L4OLA7I/
  
  Or $35 for the classic Hubsan x4 with a bit more durability than the X11:
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/
  
  
  When only $20 more gets you a known quality unit don't skimp. OH! Don't forget extra batteries and props when ordering whichever you go with. The flight time on these things is 5-7 minutes per charge. If traveling to a park to fly, you'll want a handful of pre charged batteries.
  
  
• Hubsan x4 / Syma x11 batteries - http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Tenergy-charger-Lithium-batteries/dp/B00YTBERUA/
  
• Syma x5c/x5sw / FY326 batteries - http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Tenergy-5---1-batteries/dp/B00YVT0AE2/
  

This one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MNG37C2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452280696&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=syma&dpPl=1&dpID=31F80tz4ENL&ref=plSrch

is this it?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013HQCK88/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_ncPoxbEN0SCGV

Is this the quadcopter you are refering too? Because it looks in stock and available to arrive before xmas.


I wan't it too!

Under $100 for indoor use, https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Quadcopter-FPV-Camera-Toy/dp/B00GSNWB5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480608736&sr=8-1&keywords=Husband+fpv

So this is considered the new X5C-1?

I would go with the X8C with this camera http://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Real-time-Transmission-Display-Quadcopter/dp/B013HQCK88

Hubsan X4 H107L $32

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1449195469&sr=1-4&keywords=hubsan+x4

This: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kx3lybYSS9XG9

Awesome little quadcopter for what it is. About the size of your palm so you can fly it indoors or out, durable so you can crash a few times and not worry too much about breaking it, and cheap enough you won't have a heart attack if you do. You're gonna crash a lot learning to fly so don't go for anything crazy to begin with. Get a bunch of extra propellers and a pack of 5 extra batteries and he can fly for about an hour straight, and you're still only around $60. If you want to upgrade from this, there's another version of this same thing with a camera and screen for first person flying that comes in around $100

There are 4 models, the h107c has two versions
H107L - no camera
H107C - two versions - vga and HD/720p
H107D - fpv version with display on remote
there are also hubsan-specific add-on goggles for the H107D that plug into the remote