Best products from r/Reprap

We found 30 comments on r/Reprap discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 95 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/Reprap:

u/crippledlemming · 1 pointr/Reprap

As a fellow Mac user, who also has a prusa mendel; I would highly recommend you use OctoPrint + a Raspberry Pi 3. This may not be a just starting out configuration but it makes life a lot easier in controlling the printer.

I use Slic3r for Mac configured to talk to the OctoPrint server through an API call, and I can send gcode to my printer across the network from the Slic3r application. With the RPi camera installed I can keep an eye on my prints without having to be in the same room.

Also you may be happier with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This PSU is a bit cheaper than your standard ATX PSU, it may be a good choice if you're looking to try this hobby out as cheaply as possible. It is a more difficult way of going because you will need to print something like:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199089

To keep live 120VAC from being exposed on your bench.

Path of least resistance to getting started:

Slic3r > Repetier Host or PronterFace or Cura > Printer

The best way I've found (easiest):

Slic3r > OctoPrint

Seeing as I have the same printer and host OS configuration, feel free to DM me and I'll answer any questions you may have.

u/eatmyshorts · 2 pointsr/Reprap

I highly recommend Nophead's kit. It's fantastic--the quality of printed parts is excellent, the power supply and j-head are quality, and the Dibond helps to prevent resonances, making the printer quieter than ones built from plywood.

Don't over-tighten the nyloc nuts--it's very easy to do, and doing so will bend the Dibond slightly or crack the plastic parts.

Follow the directions very carefully. Everything is explicit in the instructions, but there aren't as many pictures/videos as I needed, and I ended up doing 2 steps incorrectly as a result. Nophead sells individual replacement parts, though, and everything he sells is quality and has a low profit margin. If you're not in the UK, though, shipping can get expensive.

You're going to need to strip very small gauge wire (for the ribbon cable, among others). Here's a great tip I learned to strip small gauge wire without breaking the wire:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yM4JsxirXPg

As others have stated, get a caliper. Also I find that a dial gauge is useful in leveling the bed--one like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-196521-Metric-Dial-Indicator/dp/B000LFYK0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396249675&sr=8-1&keywords=dial+gauge
Basically, after you get your first print, print up something like this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:92852
Change a setting in your firmware to allow the z-axis to go below '0', and attach the dial holder to your x-carriage instead of your extruder. This will allow you to get a very level bed. Bed leveling is everything--it will help adhesion and make your prints much more reliable.

After you've got your bed level, print replacement parts from ABS for your extruder, especially the gears and extruder block. I had problems at one point with a jammed extruder, and the resulting stresses cracked my extruder block. I had a PLA extruder block replacement, but the way the extruder mounts to the block on the Mendel90 (directly with screws, rather than using an aluminum mounting plate on the j-head's groove mount) meant that it got soft when the extruder got up to temperature, causing the tip of the extruder to wobble and the prints to go badly. Printing an ABS extruder block solved my problems. It's nice to have a backup so you don't need to rely on /r/reprappif or on friends.

You won't go wrong with Nophead's kit. I've seen many kits, and helped many friends build their printers at my local hackspace. Nophead's kit is the nicest I've found. The only other printer in the same league is the Ultimaker, and it's quite a bit more expensive, especially if you want the one with the heated bed.

Once you've got some experience under your belt, order an extra Nema17 motor, and get an extra D-Sub connector and custom PCB from Nophead, and purchase an E3D hot end. Build a 2nd extruder--the Mendel90 allows you to replace the extruder by unscrewing only 2 wingnuts (no tools necessary!). The E3D hot end can print nylon and other hot materials. It's a bit longer than the J-head, so you'll lose some space on the z-axis. But it's a fantastic all-metal hot end.

u/PM_Me_Your_Supers · 2 pointsr/Reprap

well the stepper drivers came with little heat sinks which help some but I found that they still get warm so i printed off this fan mount. (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:166045) It keeps some air flow over it so it helps a fair amount. The stepper drivers are made so if they get too hot they will throttle themselves down which can cause the motors to skip during long prints. So keeping the drivers cool can help a lot with reliability and probably helps with longevity. I just used a 80mm fan I had laying around, nothing fancy.

For the fans I got 3 of these bad boys (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PFFDCW?refRID=6Z89M8MBRGGY4JFBH4EC&ref_=pd_rhf_sc_p_img_3). yes i know they are overkill for just about anything and very loud but I just run them at 5v instead of 12v and you cant hear them over the stepper motors and they still move plenty of air with a lot of static pressure. You want that static pressure if you mount them on a fan duct so that you will get good airflow and not blow back. about the only down side to them is that they are little over twice as thick as the fan that comes with the kit so you need longer screws depending on how or where you mount it.

u/johnnyfortune · 1 pointr/Reprap

Hey. IDK if you did this yet, but just my experience. I now have an extra ATX PSU sitting in my closet. Honestly I have like zero wiring experience, but setting up the LED power supply, with an additional fused switch, was like, pretty easy. compared to the rest of my prusa build. The power supply I got was this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXV4WH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And get a switch like this. Light-Rocker-Supply-Connector

A few peeps in this subreddit convinced me to do this and im glad I did.

Turning my ATX power supply into a useable one would have worked, but ugh, all those cables would have been a mess. You can start clipping them all, but then, what was the point? Cause you can never use that ATX for anything again anyways.

u/ipeerbhai · 2 pointsr/Reprap

An easy option is to go to amazon.com and get this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TYHZ0A/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00

It's 30 bucks, has 2 heat pads, is all pre-wired, pre-stripped, glue backed, and has free shipping if you've got prime. I use it on EasyMaker( my own 3d printer design ) with a 1 foot square 1/8" thick piece of Aluminum from onlinemetals. It heats to 60C no problem. Something smaller -- say the size of a Prusa bed -- should easily heat to 110. Mark Gantor's lab ( aka the UW Seattle 3d printer lab/research group ) has used it to heat a prusa-sized bed to 110. EasyMaker uses a square foot sized bed, which is HUGE compared to other designs -- so don't let my 60C scare you. With 1 square foot of surface area, no existing heater can get to 110C.

you get 2 heat pads -- if you've got a really small bed -- say a makerbot cupcake or other mini-sized device, you could use just one. You can also use the switch if you like -- but I just wired directly to the RAMPS board. Super-easy. Done in 5 minutes.

Also -- I've found printing ABS on 60C Aluminum that has blue tape on top works great -- no curl, and safe to touch. I even printed a large, thin, flat thing using ABS -- no problem, everything stuck great, and nothing curled. Though, I normally print with PLA, and designed the machine around PLA, 60C is fine for ABS if you use blue tape instead of kapton( from my experience ).

Hope that helps!

u/Integral_10-13_2xdx · 3 pointsr/Reprap

They have the solidoodle 4 on prime. It's a little out of your price range, but it comes pretty much ready to print and the community is great.

If you can't spend more than 750, I'd recommend grabbing a prusa i3 kit if you have some mechanical know-how. Be prepared for many long hours assembling, re-assembling, calibrating, re-assembling, re-calibratin, etc, etc.

u/StepperIssues · 1 pointr/Reprap

Thanks! So could I buy something like this to join the wires on the motor? Does the wire gauge matter?

Also, are these what you are referring to when you mention in-line crimps?

Again thanks, I really appreciate the help!

u/insta · 2 pointsr/Reprap

Heated PCBs are hard anyway because they are a weird combination of heatsinking and thermally insulative. If you are ever going to solder a second thing, just get a good Hakko or something. I have the analog version of the linked iron, and love it. I leave it at 350C constantly ... it gets to temp in like 20 seconds and holds it rock solid.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421772043&sr=8-1&pebp=1421772044939&peasin=B00AWUFVY8

Also:
http://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421772121&sr=8-1&pebp=1421772121985&peasin=B008OC0E5M

I'd highly suggest you plunk down and get both. You'll feel like a wizard from now on with soldering. For the flux pen, just drown your connections, wire, pads, etc in flux before soldering. Within a very generous reason, you cannot overflux things, and it makes the solder actually behave like it should. It globs where it's supposed to, doesn't make those stupid little peaky points that bridge everywhere, and so on.

u/ksm6149 · 1 pointr/Reprap

This is the one I have: [REPRAPGURU] DIY RepRap Prusa I3 3D Printer Kit With Molded Plastic Parts USA Company https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011PVIMPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ED-7ybPTAV2PR

It's far from the best, but there's a lot of potential with it, the main thing being an upgraded frame since the acrylic cracked at the bottom. But I'm definitely open to getting a larger print bed too. The way I see it, it may be Frankenstein's monster when I'm done, but it'll be just as capable as a higher end printer (maybe a bit ambitious lol)

u/ThatFatKid · 1 pointr/Reprap

The Long:
-
I'm currently designing a core xy printer, the build specs for the machine are (LWH) 26"x26"x24" with a printing area 20"x20".

I'm stuck on designing the Z axis and would like to use two motors, I wanted to use a smoothie board for this project but this build requires 6 motors and thats where this issue starts. I'm aware that you can wire external stepper drivers but with all the talk about micro stepping I don't have the slightest clue on what I need If I were to go that route. I'm just really against spending that kind of money and having to hack it before I can use it.

I've seen people use pulley systems with one motor(how much torque do you need for that style application) and people using stubby stepper motors and wiring them together.

The heated bed is 18"x18" and I first designed a 20x20 aluminum build plate but started to wonder about warping and weight, I want to use glass as the actual printing area but designing the carriage is still on the drawing board.

The short:
-
So here are my questions:

If I wanted to use a smoothie board what and where would I find the stepper drivers needed? Motors I would like to use.

-

Why does it seem the standard of Z rod is 8mm? I remember reading somewhere that it has to do with the millimeter per degree of turn?

-

If I wanted to use 10-12mm z rod is there any cons to doing that other then overkill?

Here's an album of the design progress for those interested. The frame is designed around 20x60mm v-slot from open builds.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Reprap

I would HIGHLY recommend the $350 Printrbot Simple. (http://printrbot.com/shop/printrbot-simple/) It's the one I use and have had a lot of fun with it. It's a kit, so you build it yourself. Took me 4 hours on a Saturday, and my family was floored when I showed it to them, and started printing the next day. You can print up to about 4 inches tall, wide and long. Here is a pic of some of my recent creations :) http://imgur.com/JFM6QHx

amazon reviews: http://www.amazon.com/Printrbot-Simple-Printer-Filament-1-75mm/dp/B00HLSR0O8

u/ProfessionalHobbyist · 3 pointsr/Reprap

The safest thing is a properly-sized resistor on the 5V rail. If you don't do that, the PSU may appear to run fine without it initially and then randomly shut down, reset, etc., potentially ruining prints. You need to keep drawing 1-2 amps at 5V to keep things happy. If you really want ideas for things to put on 5V that are actually useful:

  • 5V LEDs
  • Raspberry Pi
  • a powered USB hub
  • USB webcam
  • 5V fan(s) to cool stepper drivers/control board

    Source: Have repurposed several AT and ATX PSUs for bench supplies and reprap power supplies.
u/lumpy_potato · 2 pointsr/Reprap

Amazon sells the package I noted for $220. According to camelcamelcamel its been up and down, but the $220 price isn't a new one. Plus it has Prime shipping and Amazon customer service to work with for RMA/Returns. If their pricing remains the same after today, then buying from eBay or Amazon would be better than buying direct in some cases (the basic RAMPS kit is more expensive on Amazon, but cheaper on eBay).

If the pricing goes back to normal after Black Friday, then we'll have to 3D print some pitchforks.

u/spauda01 · 2 pointsr/Reprap

You can hook it up as they recommend for the 24v configuration but that just provides the same amount of power at a different voltage so that doesn't help.


If you hook up 24v to the 12v terminals, you will quadruple the power and double the current.


Ohm's law, 12V=(1.2ohm)(10A) or 24v=(1.2ohm)(20A)


You would probably need a 600W 24v power supply and all of your wiring needs to be 10awg at least.


Hook it up like this diagram shows, except your bed power will connect to the 24v psu instead of the 12v.

https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/assets/25/7d/4a/1d/63/D-Bot_Electrical_Diagram.pdf


Here's the relay used, be sure to heatsink it

http://www.amazon.com/Single-Phase-SSR-40DD-DC3-32V-DC5-60V/dp/B012SW6TB6/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1444750548&sr=1-6&keywords=solid+state+relay+dc+-ac

u/russiancatfood · 3 pointsr/Reprap

If you have Amazon available, this is by far the best price on the full setup (plus LCD and SD card slot)

www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZITDwb43HXT2

I've bought about 5 of them, and these guys may actually have some quality control.

u/nicholmikey · 1 pointr/Reprap

I just ordered this Prusa I3 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00N7I1ZVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Where can I find a crash course on 3D modeling? What software would work best this this unit? I'm looking to make small robotic parts, panels, gears, stuff like that.

u/Def_Not_KGB · 1 pointr/Reprap

I really like the Molex SL series, it's what we use at the company I work for. It's also already pretty common on 3D printers (Off the top of my head I know RAMBO boards already use it) and they are really quality.

You can have board to cable connections, cable to cable connections, panel mount connections, whatever you want.

Here's their 'roadmap' which I guess has some info, but if you want to find them on digikey this has everything you need.

Also for crimpers you can just get a generic molex crimper

u/recklesslittlemario · 1 pointr/Reprap

Granted depends on if you are working with 12 volt or 24 volts. Any reason why you want to go that way vs say a 12 volt 30 amp supply? like https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG

just wondering why you are looking at an 80 dollar power supply.

u/Kariko83 · 2 pointsr/Reprap

I have build a C-Bot and am currently using a Fotek 40A SSR you can get off of amazon. This was the listing recommended by the creator of the C-bot in his rework design btw. I have it attached to the aluminum extrusions directly with some heatsink compound between them and it barely gets warm during operation.

u/ArchieHicox · 1 pointr/Reprap

I just built my i2 I've had laying around and ordered some cheap electronics kit off amazon, This one. I'm using a 12v 30 power supply off amazon as well. I configure marlin and after messing with the endstops finally I get the motors to move. next onto the thermistors. both the bed and the extruder are working and reading 25c at room temp as long as the 12v power supply is turned off. as soon as I turn it on the extruder goes to 0c and the bed remains at 25c. I tested the thermistor and im getting ~99-98k ohms at around 25c room temp. I also went into marlin and changed the temp pins for the extruder from t0 to t2 in the ramps_pin.h script. same result.

Do I have a bad ramps/Mega? or has anyone seen this problem before? am I missing somthing in the firmware that might fix this or should I buy a less cheap ramps and mega?
Thanks

u/partsoven · 1 pointr/Reprap

Molex connectors on the wiring is the first thing to make sure. Rewire the steppers connector. You really need to make certain you have a proper crimper tool for them otherwise you will constantly be battling this type of problem. This one works good. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/PhanMan71 · 1 pointr/Reprap

Thanks, I've got the Einsy rambo cloned from the mk3 as is most of the parts i've got, strangely this board takes 24v but requires 5v fans (linked up in my post). I'll look into the line regulator too to learn bout em

They've actually got [5v version noctua fans now] (https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA) but I decided to go for a sunon from digikey that had better air pressure

u/solidtwerks · 1 pointr/Reprap

360w Here is the PSU that I have.