Best advice is to keep it simple. Focus on brakes and tires first! Do some basic setup and then recognize while you are on track when you are at the limit of your basic setup, then go from there.

You already have SS brake lines, good! Fill them with good 600°F brake fluid (several were mentioned already). Do this every few events and be meticulous about doing it RIGHT and making sure there are NO LEAKS. Safety first! This and pads are your #1 safety item. Then an instructor, then good tires, helmet, seat belts, etc. Again, keep it simple.

Parts:

Use whatever rotors are on the car for now, and buy a set of these as backup whenever htey start to warp: Centric 120.40048CRY Cryostop Rotor
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1H2V6

Brake Pads, order a set of Hawk HP+ pads. You will get advice all over the board on what is best and blah blah blah. These are great bang for your buck and you can street them as well.
Hawk Performance HB361N.622 HP Plus Brake Pad
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IEYNOM
Fronts are most important, do all 4 corners once you start to get comfortable with the car and/or go to a bigger track.

Think you're done with brakes? NOPE! Now let's talk heat. You're just starting to go on the track and want to be out for as long as possible to work on consistency and technique. If you're going to do any sizeable track with big braking zones you will want some way to keep the brakes cool. A lot of people poo-poo this step and then complain about how the stock brakes suck SO bad. I have had my s2k on CoTA, Road America, and BIR with zero brake fade with the setup I'm describing.
Option one: remove the dust shields, this will help reduce captivated heat
Option two: brake duct kit. DIY worked best for me:
-Lambert spindle mounts: http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66_67&products_id=180
-Front Bumper inlets. WASP makes nice stuff but they SUCK to deal with and idk if they're even in business anymore. Several other options out there.
-Aircraftspruce.com has all the ducts and such you need:
Qty Ship B/O Item Unit Price Total Price
11 05-29910 SCAT-10 DUCTING 2 1/2" 7.500 82.50
6 QS200-40H BREEZE CLAMP 200-40H 1.880 11.28
1 01-00990 RESCUE TAPE 1" X 12' BLACK 9.350 9.35 (helps with rubbing)
3 05-02200 RUBBER "U" CHANNEL 1.350 4.05
50 11-04229 7" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-1-9 0.040 2.00
50 11-13475 14" 120LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-3-9 0.150 7.50
50 11-04058 14" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-2-9 0.090 4.50
Subtotal: USD 121.18


Ok great, now you have good brakes, you already said you have RS3 tires on there, buy a nice tire gauge and keep an eye on pressures & tire wear!
Joes Racing 32307
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC

While you're at it, check the oil. Seriously, these things can (but don't necessarily) burn through a lot of oil depending on conditions and the track. Just keep an eye on it and plan for keeping an eye on it. Not a bad thing.


Get a good basic alignment on the car, max out the stock adjusters for camber front and rear, zero toe front and about .25" total toe in the rear, then you're good to go! If you are feeling DIY-ish pick up a Quick Trick alignment kit to bust this out quick and easy in your garage or at the track.


Once you get comfy with the car however you have it setup today suspension/wheel-wise, you can start to look at a few next-steps. Do all of these at the same time as its the combo that shines over any one part.
-lowering springs/coilovers (I did ohlins, so awesome)
-front swaybar (A simple eibach will do!)
-front bumpsteer correction kit/spacers
-17x8.5 or 17x9 square wheel setup with 255/40-17 tires. RS3's, Maxxis, VR1, are great lapping-day options. RE71R for quick/short/fast hot laps.

1 rule: HAVE FUN!

You're better off buying new ones as you get fresh adhesive strips on the back, and you don't have to worry about fucking them up as you take them off. $20 each on amazon.

Here's what I did. Under $50, front and back emblems, including spray paint purchase.

These two emblems on amazon, front and back OEM:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFDH8KQ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FSCN9US

Scuff them up with sandpaper so the paint adheres better to the smooth surface of the emblems, then. Spray paint with flat black. 4 or 5 coats with some time in between to let each one dry. I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XG68SMM

Then put aside and let them dry.

Onto removing your current emblems:

Get some fishing line and 3M adhesive remover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYA7W

Spray the adhesive remover on the emblem on your car, then using the fishing line, work at the adhesive using a sawing motion to cut through the layer attached to your car. Once the adhesive is all cut, and you can move the fishing line around like you're flossing, you can pull it out and the emblem will pop out. In addition to the adhesive there are 2 little plastic spikes that stick into holes on your car body. That's the popping out part. You'll have to tufg at it to remove it. Some people break them, hence buying new emblems. Then spray some more adhesive remover and remove the crud left behind with a microfiber towel. If you have a lot of crud, you can use a plastic scraper like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HLWB0BM - or even a credit card... spray with the 3M product, scrape the crud, wipe the crud off the car, repeat. Was pretty quick and painless. Once you're all done, wipe off the adhesive remover with a microfiber towel, make sure you're all nice and clean, then peel off the plastic strips on your new emblems, put it in place, and viola. 10 minutes tops, not including the spray painting.

It should be at least 55-60F temperature to apply emblems properly. They won't stick in colder weather.

Good luck. Simple and easy upgrade. 15 bhp to the wheels.

I personally like the SPR-60C set from Alpine, about $150 and I think the Pioneer digital amp line is an outstanding value. The GM-D1004 looks like a great match with power to spare for only $100 street. It's twice as powerful as the Alpine power pack for the same money or less.

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GMD1004-45X4-Compact-Class/dp/B00O8B7BXQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417587005&sr=1-2&keywords=gm-d1004#productDetails

I use a similar setup, with my amp being pretty much the same except older and without the slick form factor. Feeding 200W RMS into each side gives me the ability to extract all the speakers are capable of delivering, which is sufficient for even top down at highway speeds and a reasonable amount of bass for the speaker size without a sub. The extra power gives you options. You can get pretty bassy if you're not cranking it, or you can get pretty loud with less bass. You're not lacking on the power to do so, only the physical limitations of the speaker. You will not be disappointed for $250 combined!

I bought it off amazon. it's around $50 https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Cquartz-30-Ml-Kit/dp/B005DZJ7VA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496839515&sr=8-2&keywords=cquartz

there's three types (maybe more)

Cquartz

Cquartz UK (for lower temperature applications)

Cquarts Finest (has to be done by a certified shop not for the home gamer)

either way it's really not for your home gamer if you ask me. it's essentially a clear coat that you're adding over top of your paint. it cures hard and beads water relatively well. it has a ~2 year life to where the surface essentially stays as protected as wax but you don't have to wax.

it's longevity really depends on how you wash your car and the damage it takes on. I'm expecting to get about 3 years out of this maybe 4 since I garage it and it's not my daily.

you have to have your paint as flat as you can (paint correction) before you apply it because it does not fill or hide scratches, they need to be removed first. what it will do is lock them in. if you apply it too thick and don't buff it out by hand before it cures they only way to remove it is to polish it back out and reapply.


the application went easy enough for me because I was anal about the process. your car has to be completely decontaminated before you apply it (no oils, no wax, no nothing) to do that I wiped it down with car pro eraser and then a wipe down with IPA (alcohol)



if you haven't done a paint correction and haven't done much detailing and what not I wouldn't even look at it unless you're gonna get a detail shop to do it for you. What I would recommend is a great wax that is cheap and lasts a long time. collonite 845. it's awesome shit, you can get a bottle for under $20 and it'll last years. the wax when applied will protect your car for roughly 6 months. it's great shit, just wash/clay and wax with collonite. It's easy to apply, easy to buff off and beads water like a mofo, it also will fill in minor scratches) it's what I always used before I went for a 2 week long paint correction and decided to lock it in a bit better with cquartz

I’ll post good after pics tonight on a separate post, the before pics aren’t great quality. Honestly the top was in great condition for how old it is, but I really baby this thing so I did it anyway very carefully. I’m very happy with the results. Already multiple people asked if it’s a new top.
Forever Car Care Products FB813 BLACK Black Top Gel and Foam Applicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001879CUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KRm.AbFME1KSN

What year and how many miles? For brake pads I use Hawk HPS and use ATE BLUE brake fluid:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCNEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO665W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VXRPL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  For the clutch I've got the Science of Speed sport 400 (capable of 400ft/lbs torque) and an 11 lb Comp Clutch flywheel. If you're not making a ton of power the SoS comp 300 would be ideal.
  
  
• https://www.scienceofspeed.com/index.php/s2000/dpp/clutch-flywheel/scienceofspeed-sport-400-hybrid-clutch-kit-s2000-2000-09.html
  
  
• http://competitionclutch.com/base/products/flywheels/
  
  You'll also want to replace your thrust and throwout bearings and have your stock flywheel resurfaced if you are leaving it stock. I've got continental tires front and back (on stock style 1 AP2 wheels).
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SLGEBA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5AKV4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
  I love the shit out of them. They grip well and are outstanding in the wet. The pads don't make any noise and the clutch is widely considered to be the most "oem quality" one on the market. You should definitely flush your tranny and diff while you're doing all of this. Honda MT gear oil in the gear box and Amsoil SevereGear 75w110 is my shit. The stuff I posted is marginally more expensive over the ~10%-15% cheaper stuff on eBay so just spend the money and keep it nice. It's worth it in the end.

Like other mentioned, get the wheel woolies to keep the barrels clean.

​

Unless the car is just going to sit in your garage and polished with a diaper then I wouldn't spend a bunch of money/time on it. Get one of the popular brake dust cleaners(like Sonax), do a good clean, maybe throw a cheap coat of wax on the inside barrel with whatever you have laying around, keep them clean with the woolies and then just go enjoy the car.

i replaced mine at 170k miles after a money shift. saw no signs of wear, but it made me sleep better at night knowing they were replaced. i used one of these tools to make the job easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-S2000-Spring-Compressor-engines/dp/B00J144A66

What's better about them than something like this?

I can't comment on your particular issue, but I use Sonax wheel cleaner and I really like it. It melts away brake dust etc. and it turns purple when it "reacts" with debris on your wheels.

Honestly, you should get some ramps.