Best products from r/SCREENPRINTING

Yes you can print discharge in your basement and an exhaust fan is a good idea but I've never found it overwhelming or anything. Better than some screen cleaning chemistry, worse than my poster acrylics. You may consider gloves. I wear them for all printing out of habit but for discharge it's a good idea. Be sure to clean up with a good degreaser (I use Simple Green) and dispose of any unused ink properly.

The cheapest (and most unreliable) curing for some water based inks is to "hair dryer cure" to the touch and then run the shirts in a commercial clothes dryer on high for 30 min. You can usually find these at larger laundrymats. This works only for some inks and you'll need to test it.

Far more reliable and not as expensive as a conveyor is a flash unit. I use this one and love it. I just lay out the shirt on a table and hover the flash unit over the shirt for 30-60 sec until the ink temperature hits it's cure point.

If you do not heat the ink to it's cure point, you will end up with a less than durable print. It will wash out over time.

Screens common for water based inks are 20x24", 156-305 mesh. My most common for shirts is 200.

Your squeegees are fine as long as they aren't too wide to fit the shirt screens. Side note: learn both pull and push strokes. Nearly all of my shirt prints are push stroked now. Also be sure to flood after every print stroke.

Not mentioned elsewhere: Emulsion needs to be resistant to discharge. Currently I'm using TX-Discharge and it's pretty good, flexible exposures and pretty high solid content. Over time I've learned that it's best to post-expose screens regardless of how long the run is. A min in full sunlight does the trick.

You can build a 1-color shirt press pretty cheaply with some cheap lumber and hinge clamps. Google it. Please don't stress yourself out trying to use a vacuum table for shirts. It's a pain. Built my last hinge press for like $30 and an hour of work. Totally worth it.

Other than that, start saving up for a multi-head press. Once you get to wear your work... well, it can be addictive. Hope the above helps and good luck!

You're asking for quite a lot, but luckily screen printing isn't all that complicated once you understand the process and underlying concept.

Here is a nice guide with some helpful illustrations that should explain the process fairly well. It shows screen printing onto paper with a printing table rather than clothing, but the screens as well as the ideas are the same.

To print on shirts, you'll need a slightly more advanced/modified press, the most basic ones tend to look like this but they also get larger and more complex if you want to print more colours, like this, or as big and intimidating as this. The fundametals behind it all are the same.

To print on fabric you'll need special inks, most commonly an ink called Plastisol. It prints like normal ink, but it doesn't fully dry and resist washing until it's heated up ("cured"), so you need to pair the t-shirt press with a dryer that heats the garment up. The most basic ones look like this and cure the ink as the garment sits on the press. But there are also larger ones like this, with a conveyor belt that take the garment through an oven to cure the ink. There are also water-based inks available that air-dry and do not require curing.

There are a few places to buy equipment/supplies online, especially if you're in the US. The most popular is probably Ryonet.

That sort of runs you through the VERY basics. There is a lot more to learn however, but there is LOTS of information available online, and video tutorials on YouTube as well if you search for them.

Here are some good books for beginners on the subject as well:

Screen Printing Today: The Basics by Andy MacDougall

Screen Printing on the Cheap

And there's a ton of information and answers to common questions on various discussion boards online, two that I found most helpful when I was learning were T-Shirt Forums and the screen printing subforum on GigPosters.com. Most people on the latter forum print on paper, but a lot of the stuff is relevant to both media.

If you have any specific questions, this subreddit is a good place to ask, and from what I've seen we are all happy to share our knowledge. But hopefully this helps you get your mind around how it works.

Start small, get a solid grasp on the fundamentals, and then build.

Firstly I would strongly suggest you not print flatstock on a garment press, use a vacuum table. While it is possible and I've seen a lot of folks do it, printing this way is a massive pain and you will need to use adhesive on your paper to hold it down. Vacuum is far easier and won't make your sheets stick together. For less than $100 you can build a vacuum table with a small shop vac. If you do it smart you should still be able to use the shop vac for normal stuff as well.

As to inks the standard is water based acrylics like Speedball. While their fabric inks are meh, their acrylics are really good. Smooth, evenly drying, and excellent viscosity for a variety of mesh counts. For an even cheaper option you can try acrylic house paint. (Bonus punk cred for buying only off-tints at a discount.) Make sure it's water based acrylic or you will have a bad time. Personally I've had some issues with house paint on occasion but those are pretty rare and this is a common cheap alternative.

You can print pretty much on any paper but uncoated cover stock is generally the best place to start. Strongly suggest not starting with coated stock, it's trickier to get right. In the gigposter world, Mr. French Paper is the gold standard and with good reason, it's f'ing awesome paper. Smooth tooth, even grain, lovely colors, and a nice selection of weights. It is expensive though. For a cheaper alternative you can start with what I did, Exact Index 110# Cover. It's not as fancy as other options but it'll get the job done. I used this paper for many of my early gigposters and it never let me down. The only real issue it has is a bit of ink spread where the ink, if it's thin enough, will tend to spread into the sheet more than in the nicer papers but this is a minor issue really and easily fixed by not watering down your ink too much (a common practice to deal with very high mesh counts).

If you have any other questions post 'em and welcome to the wonderful world of flatstock!

[Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BP9QG2J/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_b2N0e_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=WJBA3FZ120146NKFZ8FF&pf_rd_r=WJBA3FZ120146NKFZ8FF&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=02114479-a44c-5a29-b837-44c7cf09692f&pf_rd_p=02114479-a44c-5a29-b837-44c7cf09692f&pf_rd_i=565108)

I found this one off the bat. Its barely under your budget, but this is a good starting point in your search. So Im about to throw a bunch of words at you so get ready.

• Processor: 8th generation, Intel i5. It has 4 cores and can turbo boost up to 3.9 ghz. What you want to look for here when it comes to Processors is, Minimum 4 cores, and Minimum speed 2.5 ghz. This one is at 2.3 ghz, but the Intel brand makes them so they speed up if when heavily loaded, in this case up to 3.9 ghz.
  
• RAM: This one has 8gb. Ideally you want 16gb. with all our programs moving to cloud base, when your husband (if he isn't already) jumps on Adobe CC they will take a toll on RAM. with each passing year programs and apps are getting heavier and heavier. If your husband designs like most people I know, Hell have 6-10 programs and apps opened at a time. The more ram the better the processor is able to go through the information.
  
• SSHD(solid state hybrid drive): The PC industry is moving towards an all flash storage (SSD, Solid state drive) or to all cloud and away from HDD (Hard Disk Drives). SSD is what you want, but it is a pricey commodity still. so to counter the price points some companies made hybrid drives, of HDD and SDD. This one has 1Tb (Terabyte) of Drive space which is a great amount to start.
  
• Graphics Card or GPU: This one has what is considered a lower end GPU, but for the programs we run, It'll do just fine. Our work really benefits from GPU's when it comes to exporting videos and high definition display while working. Our Adobe programs also benefit from using Nvidia graphic cards because of what they call CUDA. These are tiny brains on the GPU that processes well the graphics. The latest Nvidia line go from GTX 1050, 1060, 1070, 1080. with prices to match range.
  
  I didn't take much of a look around besides amazon, but if you want to take some information to your local PC guy, tell him that you are looking for something with the following specs.
  
  Either an i5 or i7 processor, 2.5ghz or greater. You want minimum 4 cores, but no more than 6 (because of price). 16 gb of RAM. Minimum 256gb SSD (ideal setup is 256gb ssd and 1tb HDD. You put the programs on the SSD and save files on the HDD). And a GTX 1050 or GTX 1060 Graphic card.
  
  Other than that happy shopping, and your husband will love what you get him.

1. I see 156 as the golden number for a lot of things, but most of my screens are 110, and i print everything through them. It will definitely leave more ink on the garment, but that could be a good thing. 156 is a nice middle ground for most ink types. I don't print plastisol, so I cannot speak about that, but anything water based works fine.
   
2. Check out this thread. I recently redid my exposure unit with this light. It's less than 30 bucks, and while I and the OP had a box to put it in, you can definitely rig something up to project overhead. It has a bracket on the light for mounting so this shouldn't be an issue. Here is a link for the light.
   
3. Depends on your emulsion and height, but I used Ryonet WBP [available in pints!] with a light height of 8.5 inches for 4 minutes. This emulsion is forgiving and you can fall in a range and should still be okay.
   
   You could of course skip all this hassle and headache and get a preburned screen.

Buying a cheap halogen work light from Lowes or Home Depot and a 8' 2x4 can make you a good starter exposure lamp.

​

Copying and pasting one of my comments from another thread

I'm new to screen printing too and bought some Ecotex PWR emulsion.

Here is how it worked for me:

- 500 watt halogen work light with safety glass removed

- 18in away from screen

- 3mins 10secs burn time (this time worked for me, it will probably work for you too. I haven't done any testing of adding more seconds or less, this one just worked so I'm sticking with it)

- This was on 110 and 160 mesh screens

​

Like others have said a heat gun to cure your ink is a good idea. You can use a hair dryer to dry the ink to the touch and then use an iron to set it if you want as well. I went on craigslist and you can normally (depending on location) find an old, but usable, heat press for around $50, that makes things a lot easier

​

Also I bought some butterfly hinge clamps and used some 2x4s and such to make a diy single color press.

​

Best of luck!

Buy this dudes book:
http://www.amazon.com/Screen-Printing-Today-The-Basics/dp/0944094619

The book not only has multiple process descriptions (with photos) but it also does a brief overview on the industry. It will explain all the details you need, including what an exposure unit is. Its a good start.

Andy is a screenprinting saint...or prophet..or...he is just the bomb, is what im trying to say.

Or random internets is always a good source.

Here's a good thread that takes the shotgun approach. This book is recommended quite a bit, and here's another I've personally enjoyed.
Not sure how super it is to post from one's own website, but we put out a fairly comprehensive tutorial a couple of weeks ago, linked here. It's not down to the last detail, but it does stretch across most of the process. Youtube is probably another great resource, but I'd say just dive in and get dirty. You'll have more specific questions that way. Hope this helps!

Not sure about the lights, but you definitely need a scoop coater for applying the emulsion. For the screens you have a 15-16" scoop coater will work just fine. Use the thin edge, coat the shirt side first, then the ink side.

I use this light in the 20w version, 16" from the screen.

By the way, if you order screens in a 6 pack or more they get much cheaper per screen. Also, if you order a multi pack directly from Goldupusa.com you can have them mix a couple different mesh counts, like 3@160, 3@110.

Hinge clamps like these work very well to keep your screen in the same place, and are still pretty minimalist.

If you want to go a little more complex, do an internet search for, "DIY t-shirt screen printing press," or something similar, and you will find a bunch of pretty easy-to-make setups that use hinge clamps, but are a little better than the "flat on a table" setup.

I run mine through a filter pad which catches emulsion and larger solids, then through couple of canister filters, like 25 and 10 microns or so. I have another larger filter I'm going to add in front of those because I'm getting a lot of particles that are clogging things up too often, but otherwise it works pretty well at removing solids and sludge.

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-WFPF13003B-Universal-000-Gallon-Filtration/dp/B007VZ2O0Q/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=canister+filter+whole+house&qid=1568728664&sr=8-4

Info | Details
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Amazon Product | Speedball Hinge Clamp Pair for Screen Printing
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

When I first started I read Print Liberation: The Screen Printing Primer. I found it to be a great read and also made screen printing seem very approachable. It has good explanations and lots of step-by-step pictures.

I just picked up a pair as well. Amazon has them at a good price, well at least $15 less than my local art supply store. speedball hinge clamps

I use a wide format printer officejet 7612 and transparencies from amazon. I believe these are it (Size 11x17) if that's not big enough there's also some 13x19's:

https://www.amazon.com/CisInks-WaterProof-Inkjet-Transparency-Printing/dp/B00HWI9KWM/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1484768448&sr=8-12&keywords=screen+printing+transparencies

Works great, possible depending on how you print, you may need to double them for optimum Blackout.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0963947419/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_OldGybBK2KFE9

When we bought our press, my dad bought me this book. I read it front to back. Then just started messing around. Might be a good gift idea? I still refer to it every now and then.

Use unfiltered black light T8 bulbs
Sylvania 23113 - F30T8/350BL Fluorescent Tube Black Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TZUMQ8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
The box I have is from ryonet it uses 8 bulbs, spaced about 3.5 in on center. I’m approximating the glass is about 4 in from the base of the bulbs. My box does not use a vacuum just a lid and I use a piece of foam that is thicker than the screen by about an inch and it compresses when the lid is latched to force the screen flat. Hope that helps, I can give more info if needed

I use these from CISInks and they work great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWI9KWM/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_3

Screen Printing Today is the best book I have read on the subject.

https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-23113-F30T8-350BL-Fluorescent/dp/B000TZUMQ8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Half the price and work like a charm.

[Amazon Link] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E0FI3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_-TEAzbHASRWG9) Assuming you are in the USA and/or Prime Member- otherwise you could probably find something to do the same job at a hardware store or sites that better serve your area. Hell, you could probably get a local welder to tack a couple of them together for you from of the shelf parts, its just a clampable hinge...

On a side note: you should be building screens! Its pretty easy to do on the cheap and lets you start working with multicolor prints!

Use the link below to donate .5% of your purchase to charity.
Amazon Smile URL: https://smile.amazon.com/Full-Set-Color-Screen-Printing/dp/B00EAIF2BK/ref=sr_1_1

This bot is still in test phase. Please PM me for suggestions, complaints or questions.

this one would be a great one to learn the process: https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-Advanced-All-Screen-Printing/dp/B007W6SAD4

The $50 one isn't on Amazon anymore.

I have the more expensive model of pretty much the same thing.(still looking for clients.) Depending on what you are printing.. If you really want to start small, just get a 110 screen, and some hinge clamps.. Do some one colors.. https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-Hinge-Clamp-Screen-Printing/dp/B001E0FI3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478171684&sr=8-1&keywords=hinge+clamps

Thanks for your words of encouragement. I am already hitting a wall with the emulsion/burning process, I picked up some emulsion off Amazon, this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SG83BH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ,

thinking it would be the same as working with the speedball diazo stuff. Being a Photopolymer I thought it would burn designs way faster. I've been drying my screens in a dark closet with a fan running on low from 3 hours to 12+.

Every time I burn the screen the design comes right off. Now I'm thinking it's my light source, don't really have any extra cash to pick up a fancy lighting rig so Im using a simple clamp light with a lightbulb. An LED one, a simple house bulb...

Have been trying different burn times but nothing seems to work. Any tips?

As a complete beginner I wouldn't spend money on that set up just yet. You can get the clamps on amazon here that will save you a ton of money and space. Just screw them into an old table or countertop you don't mind getting paint on.

This claims to have a shelf like of 10-12 months

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SGLRM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think Ryonet's stuff is overpriced and of medium to low quality. Buy a book called Print Liberation and use their setup. I went to school for two years for screen printing and have been doing it for another four years at pro shops and was blown away with what they suggest. They'll tell you what you'll need. :)