Best products from r/SVRiders

We found 38 comments on r/SVRiders discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 141 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/SVRiders:

u/MoxieWolf · 2 pointsr/SVRiders

See my above reply to another comment for the headlight.

As for sanding and painting,

First thing was removing the body. That took forever. I had to figure out how to get every panel off and the tail was difficult. The most important thing is keeping track of where every screw, bolt and nut went. Write all of that down and take pictures as you go. Putting back together will be almost impossible without keeping track of where to screw things into. Taking it apart will make sense as you go.

Buy a bag of rivets tho so you don’t care when you break them like I did.

GZYF 100Pcs 8mm Push Type Nylon... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DYN4L1G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I did not remove the gas tank. I unscrewed the top 2 bolts near the dash so I could lift it up and put a large towel underneath it. I covered every part of the bike around the gas tank so I didn’t get paint on anything I didn’t want to. I used towels I didn’t care about so I could just throw them away when I was done.

Do not do this outside by the way. Dirt and bugs will get in your way when you end up painting. Also direct sunlight will be bad for the paint when it is drying.

So I bought a cheap plastic shower curtain to lay down in my back room of the house so I could put all of the pieces I took off the bike on a safe surface that could be thrown away when done and had room to walk around all the pieces. Use a room that can be ventilated or has windows at least.

Sanding is the first part. I don’t remember the exact grades I had but I had a course, a fine and a super fine grade.

Course is to get the paint off and help any deep scratches. I did 2 runs of course for every piece and the gas tank. Wipe down all the pieces with a microfiber cloth after every run through of sanding. I had a sander to help and hand sanded for hard to get angles.

Then I did 1 run on every piece with fine grade after words to smooth things out.

Buy a can or 2 of scratch filler. I don’t have a link since I bought it local but you should be able to find some at any auto store.

I did 2 runs of scratch filler for any bad scratches still left over for every piece and gas tank whiledoing 1 run of fine and then super fine after each run of scratch filler.

If you need to do more runs that’s fine. You just need to end up filling the scratches and having a smooth surface with most of the paint off. I have read that you don’t need to get all the way down to the metal which I didn’t.

Painting is the hard part because spray paint fucks up easy. I didn’t have a nice spray gun so I just made super to not start my sprays directly on my pieces. I either started below or above them and just did small strokes of sprays across until I had covered the whole piece or gas tank. Sand between each paint run with super fine to help prevent imperfections. You can do as many runs as you want But I used 2 cans of semi gloss black all together. There are YouTube’s videos on good spray painting techniques. I waited 3 hours after painting to sand but I don’t know if that is the recommended wait time.

After the painting is clearcoat. Get a good clearcoat that prevents sun damage and paint damage and rust if possible. I bought this local as well so no links. I did maybe 2 runs of clearcoat to finish and waited 2 hours between each clearcoat run.

Then it just needed to be put back together.

Let me know if all of that makes sense. I can try to go into more detail if need be.

u/PLD · 2 pointsr/SVRiders

Wheel weights can really just go anywhere on the wheel there's a flat enough spot to stick it to, but I try to get it as close to the center as possible. I use stick-on weights, but the guy who I had doing my tires before always used the clamp-on weights. Both seem just fine.

You throw the wheel with tire onto the balancer and the heavy spot will orient itself downward. Add the weights to the light end that is upward. I use a piece of electrical tape to hold weights on temporarily and add them until it's balanced enough that the wheel wont spin on its own. It's not as awesome as those big expensive machines that tell you where to put the weights, but I've personally never had issues. Just takes patience and forethought.

Here are the tool I use:

Rim savers These work very well, but I think if you have spoons that aren't flat and wide like the motion pros it can break the plastic it's made from. Mixed reviews. Some recommend three, but they're sold in pairs. I went ahead and got two sets in case I broke one somehow.

Wheel balancer I had heard horror stories about the cheaper end balancers and figured I'd just do it right the first time and went ahead and got this thing. Very solid piece of equipment.

Two smaller spoons - These work great I think. I have a slight bias toward motion pro since, in my experience, they make good stuff.

Large spoon - It's useful for the last part of the tire if you can't manage it with a shorter spoon. More leverage. Not entirely necessary, but three total spoons is ideal.

Air compressor - To set a bead you need one with a high enough PSI, but this was bought with the air tools in mind. I'm pretty sure it would be overkill for just mounting tires.

Bead breaker - There is a motorcycle specific one that I saw, but it seemed like it was designed for scooter wheels that are much smaller. I saw it in action at a friends house and it works fine as well.

There are competing brands and vendors for everything you can think of, so shop around for whatever you decide on doing. There's a good chance there's a better deal out there on something. I just use amazon for reference.

u/Andonon · 1 pointr/SVRiders

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

  1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.

  2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.

    Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.
u/KillerPenguinz · 7 pointsr/SVRiders

Here is the filter you need (just search for the model number on Amazon and you can buy it there. Your model number is KN-138). For oil, I run Rotella Synthetic, but any 5W-40 or 10W-40 will work (the 5 and 10 just designate the temperature at which it will still run well, ie 5 C or 10 C. I live in the north east so I go for 5 for peace of mind). Regardless of which you choose, you'll need about 2.9 quarts for a full (ie with filter) change.

Get some nitrile gloves (especially for spreading oil on the filter when you install it), shop towels for clean up, and you may want to look into getting a new crush washer for the drain bolt (not sure if/when yours has ever been replaced. They can last a while, but it's not a bad idea to replace it if you aren't sure). An oil filter clamp isn't a bad idea to help with getting them off, but I doubt you'll have issue with it. Don’t forget a good oil drain pan (I recommend this one with a screw in, top spout – this is what the oil would drain into – the oil filter holder on the top so it can drain over 24 hours, as well as a front spout), as well as a funnel to help you get the oil in.

Let me know if you need help with anything else. I've found these instructions helpful for those new to it and they are the exact same for you, too. What do you need to change the rectifier for?

u/Shiny_Buns · 1 pointr/SVRiders

I have an LED headlight assembly I'd be willing to sell you. I had it on my SV650 originally but I decided to buy a halogen headlight assembly instead because I like how it looks better than the LED. The led assembly is pretty nice though, I bought it from Amazon for $100 and it has Integrated turn signals if you decided to use them. It's still in good shape, I'd say $50 would be fair for it. Here's what it looks like on my bike: http://imgur.com/a/xraOlqr

Here's also a link to it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MVXJBL/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_g.RADbQ49QRX4

u/the2baddavid · 1 pointr/SVRiders
  1. Get JIS screwdrivers if you don't have them already. The carbs are brass and it's easy to strip the screws.
    https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=13IVJB32CWN3L&keywords=jus+screwdriver&qid=1555384541&s=gateway&sprefix=jis+&sr=8-2

  2. YouTube Shane Conley. He's an automotive teacher and posts some incredibly informative videos
    https://www.youtube.com/user/conleybuilt

  3. for the valves, finding the right feeler gauge was a pain. Here's what I landed on.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LBDK8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Here's the shim kit
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UKM6LG/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    measure the shim before you put it in. You will be doing extra work if you replace a shim only to discover it's the wrong size after install when you're double checking everything.

  4. I've got a post around here from me doing shims, I'll try to find it because there's other good stuff in there.
    Found the link, looks like I got most of it. There's other good stuff though.
    https://www.reddit.com/r/SVRiders/comments/an7gab/you_guys_rock/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

  5. drop the radiator before doing shims, it's so much easier.

  6. if you have manual tension adjusters, grab a set of socket extensions and flare nut crows feet
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRJF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

  7. measure and record everything, draw your own pictures and diagrams

  8. telescoping magnet and good lighting because you WILL drop something, somewhere

  9. check float height since you're in there already but you may not need to clean much on the carbs if there's not a power issue. The bowl gaskets do leak sometimes, might as well replace those. Definitely check the float needle.

  10. when cleaning, remember the needles are brass which is soft. Don't abuse them because they're easy to scratch.

    Edit

  11. grab a torque wrench for putting it back together and be very careful not to cross thread, the aluminum in the head is easy to rip out if you over torque or cross thread. Especially the bolts for the valve covers.
u/sv650nyc · 1 pointr/SVRiders

I have the Auxbeam LED Headlight Bulbs F-S2 series. They were only $30 for a pair and recommended in this thread on the svrider forum. I had to lower the beam somewhat but in my layman's opinion they're better than halogen. Bright white light, the high beam is shorter than with halogen but the whiter light makes street signs easier to read at night. I've used it on multiple winter night rides in the past 3 months and wouldn't go back to halogen.

Still have the second one if someone's interested.

u/makerofhomes · 2 pointsr/SVRiders

my used bike came with napoleon mirrors (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTWPDA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004WPQZTE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1MG9R0T99H3RHBMZZGSK) that look to be made for the sv. great vision and adaptability for super low cost.

somewhat related question (but i doubt it's enough to warrant a new thread): has anyone mounted bar-end turn signals and mirrors together and know of a good combination?

u/yeahthatguyagain · 1 pointr/SVRiders

So you might not remember but you gave me a bunch of info and stuff on SV's when I was choosing what kind of bike to get and ended up napping a dope deal on an 07 SV650. The first thing I did was order those exact same bar ends from OP's post. They are pretty fuckin fantastic. Cheap enough that even if they break I don't really care but well made enough that they don't move when I ride. The installation should be really easy but without any instructions it has the potential to be a pain in the ass, youtube fixes that problem.

the bar ends are like a solid 8/10. So worth the ten bucks you can nab them for here.

u/Cavemansol · 2 pointsr/SVRiders

So it was converted by a shop in the Portland area, but they essentially just rigged up a couple Home Depot brackets to hold the speedometer in place:

http://imgur.com/tkcSpCP

http://imgur.com/hGMSl9h

http://imgur.com/wUkNzX1

And then I bough and installed this headlight unit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MVXJBL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

All things considered it looks pretty good I think!

u/DooDooBrownz · 3 pointsr/SVRiders

rear stand - doesn't matter, get whatever.
front stand get the kind that lifts by the steering stem, it's much more versatile because you can lift the bike up and take the forks and the wheel off. this is what I have. works great, clears the body work just fine and didn't break the bank

u/bowie-in-space · 2 pointsr/SVRiders

> What rearview mirrors are those? How do you like them?

Honestly, just these. They get the job done and I can more or less see everything going on behind me: http://amzn.com/B002GTKAHQ

> Do you notice a big difference after installing the aTRE?

I can't say, I haven't ridden it yet : (

> What happened? Sorry to hear :S

Some idiot kid pulled his bike out in front of me at the absolute very last possible second and gave me nowhere to go. I went over the bars and straight into the ground and it seems my fibula broke my fall. Needless to say I've invested some good money in race-spec boots this time around.

u/plainskotti · 1 pointr/SVRiders

What this guy said. Get a triple tree stand, its worth the extra money and makes taking tires off 100x easier.

This is what I have as my front stand. Its solid steel tubing and I like it.

This is what I have as my rear. It does okay but it I would not put a bike heavier than the SV650 on it. I'd probably get the rear stand equivalent of the front stand I have.

u/random0munky · 2 pointsr/SVRiders

Not sure if this post is dead but I just installed these bar end mirrors and they are working out beautifully:
Amazon Link
Youtube video I watched to install them

u/phil6260 · 2 pointsr/SVRiders

I got this one, works quite well.

SKTYANTS 7" 7 Inch led Headlights with 7 inch Housing Bucket DRL Turn Signal Lights Motorcycle for Harley Da-vidsion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MVXJBL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1dYwDb2GWFVBQ

u/fatasianboi · 3 pointsr/SVRiders

Napoleon bar end mirrors. I have them on mine. Love them to death. They're dense meaning they take up vibration, they are well built and don't vibrate at high revs that make most mirrors unusable. And they stay in the position you put them. And you can also flip them out of the way easily for splitting or parking. I crashed my bike, the metal, frame and all stayed together didn't twist deform or anything just the glass broke. I bought another one to replace it while waiting for cops and first responders to show up because I'll never buy any others.

Nothing has the weight, build quality and look that they do.

NAPOLEON AP Universal Bar End Mirror Black (AP-104) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTWPDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dttQybBDDJQNS

u/taters_n_gravy · 1 pointr/SVRiders

Not sure how I feel about the shape of those. I currently have some bar end mirrors that are round. The only complaint I have about them is that one of the mirrors frame is loose from the neck piece that holds it. It sounds like similar issues to what people have with these.

Maybe I'll try some glue or something. I just would like some solid bar end mirrors. I don't care if I have to pay more for them as long as they work well.

u/ratbiker18 · 1 pointr/SVRiders

I hated these because... ugly. But worse is they are too convex, almost fisheye. Very difficult to gauge distance.

These however are perfect and look waaaay better Fantastic visibility and angle of view. The only complaint, as listed in the reviews, is that they may be loose in the actual mirrors ball joint and move in the wind. I cleaned mine up with alcohol and a swab and then hit the back of the mirror with some hot glue and it's perfect. It's still moveable but not locked in place.