Best products from r/SVRiders
We found 38 comments on r/SVRiders discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 141 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. RK UCT 4060 Universal Chain Breaker, Cutter, Press-Fit and Rivet Tool Kit
- Cutting pin made from SKH9 tool grade steel
- Either clip or rivet type
- Includes compact hard storage case
Features:
2. SKTYANTS 7" 7 Inch led Headlights with 7 inch Housing Bucket DRL Turn Signal Lights Motorcycle for Harley Da-vidsion
7" Round LED Headlight, High Performance High-Low Beam,White DRL,Amber Left/Right Turn Signal.Easy installation - Plug and Play;LED Canbus & H4/H13 Adapte;Maintenance Free;Water-proof IP65;Qty of LED: 6pcs 10W LED/lamp;Luminous Flux: 3000LM@high beam, 2000LM@low beam; Connector: H4/H13Fits FXWG, FXD...
3. Driven Racing 520 Steel Front Sprocket 15 Tooth for Suzuki SV650S 1999-2008
- Performance and longevity all in one sprocket.
- Attractive black zinc semi-gloss finish.
- Lowered surface to remove unnecessary weight.
- Available in a wide variety of tooth counts.
- Made in U.S.A.
Features:
4. Driven Racing Steel Rear Sprocket - 45T, Color: Black, Material: Steel, Sprocket Position: Rear, Sprocket Size: 520, Sprocket Teeth: 45 5068-520-45T
- Performance and longevity all in one sprocket.
- Attractive black zinc semi-gloss finish.
- Lowered surface to remove unnecessary weight.
- Available in a wide variety of tooth counts.
- Made in U.S.A.
Features:
5. RK 520 GXW XW-Ring Chain - 120/Gold
- Chains feature quad-staked pin riveting, solid rollers and solid bushings,
- They are all pre-stressed and pre-stretched for better performance with fewer adjustments
- XW-Ring Sealed Chain GXW are the leading edge XW-ring features a Nitrile Butadiene composite construction with 6 sealing points and 3 lubrication pools
- The Nitrile Butadiene composite is oil and contaminant resistant creatinga barrier to keep lubricant in and contaminants out
- 100 percent longer wear life than basic O-ring chain
Features:
6. KAWELL Rear View Side Mirror Round Bar End Convex Hawk Eye Motorcycle Mirror for 7/8" Handle Bars Fits Most Harley Davidsons Suzuki Honda Kawasaki Cruisers
- ★CLEAR VISION & SAFE DRIVE: 3 inch glass lens, 6061 Billet Aluminum Light Weight Bar End Mirrors,it provides you a high definition and wider vision, easily seeing the upcoming cars and obstacles
- ★BEST ANGLE ADJUSTMENT: Ball-type universal connecting joint, can be 360 degrees rotated, allows you to freely adjust it up & down or sideway for the best viewing angle
- ★FASHION DESIGN: Universal Round Bar End Convex Mirrors, Made of genuine glass lens and Sturdy Steel Stem, it is shockproof and corrosion resistant, great for all weather conditions
- ★WIDE FITMENT: Suitable for most brands of motorbike, Street Bike, ATV, Dirt Bike, BMX Bicycle and Scooter, Fits Most Harley Davidsons, Suzuki, Cruiser Chopper, Honda, Kawasaki Cruisers, Touring Bikes, Sport Bike, Electric Scooters etc
- ★SATISFACTION GUARANTEED: We offer 1 year warranty and 2 months full refund service, perfect after-sale service. Please do not hesitate to contact us if any quality issue or you are not happy with your purchase.
Features:
7. Auxbeam LED Headlight Bulbs F-S2 Series LED Headlights with 2 Pcs of H4 LED Conversion Kits72W 8000lm Hi-Lo Beam
Auxbeam H4 headlights with DC 9-32V(fit 12V, 24V vehicles) Operating Voltage. Color Temperature for H4 headlight bulbs is Pure White 6000K. Led bulbs with IP65 rated water and dust seal, over 30000hrs lifetimeH4 led headlights with Latest Bridgelux COB chip(USA) light source, 3 luminous faces no bli...
8. SUPAREE H13 LED Fog Lights Bulbs,7200LM 6000K Headlight Conversion Kit Extremely Bright(2PCS)
UNIQUE DESIGN: 1:1 Smallest bulb size, original halogen design, exclusive flat surface, Reduce 50% physical occlusion in illumination; No build in fan, effectively reduce mechanical damage; Control driver and aluminum housing improve heat dissipationMORE BRIGHT & PERFECT BEAM: 60W, 7200lm per pair, ...
9. CHN FW-1 Front Wheel Stand
Stand is supplied with a kit of 5 of the most popular sized head lift pinsStand is supplied with four wheels for stability in all sorts of terrain
10. Hozan JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (New 3rd. Gen) (Japan Import)
- JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) Drivers
- Ikaswebshop is the master distributor and exclusive importer of Hozan tools in the Americas
- We ship within 1-2 business days. Purchase with confidence from a US company with US shipping point
Features:
11. NAPOLEON AP Universal Bar End Mirror Black (AP-104)
- Fits left or right side
- Universal bar end mirrors
- Easily adjust the lock angle and mirror position
- Safety feature absorbs shock
Features:
12. GZYF 100Pcs 8mm Push Type Nylon Fastener Rivet Clips Universal Fits Car Truck Motorcycle Auto Furniture Assembly
100Pcs car auto push pin rivets, great door trim, bumper fender & splash shield retainersThe retainer clips are made of quality plastic, have a good fit and are of equal quality to the originalsHead Diameter(Max):11.2mm/0.44", Total Length:20.3mm/0.79", Stem Length:8mm/0.31", Fit Hole Size: 6mm/0.24...
13. Motion Pro 08-0409 Spoon Type Tire Iron
Hard nickel pewter finishEach lever is 10 inches longIncludes a handy vinyl carrying pouchWidth at spoon is 25 millimeterCurved end fits securely in the hand
14. BikeMaster Wheel Balancer and Truing Stand
BikeMaster is a brand that focuses on quality, performance, and value priced products for motorcycles and ATV's.Features a bubble level to balance wheels correctly the first time.Steel plate construction for durability and stability.Comes with shaft, cones and spacers to fit just about any wheel.Fit...
15. Motion Pro 08-0357 Rim Protector
- Motion Pro rim protectors. Save those beautiful chrome or alloy rims from scratches while changing tires.
- Protects your wheel from scratches and dings caused by tire changing tools
- Retrieval cords are included for easy use
- Sold as a pair.
- We also have tire spoons available and a valve stem fishing tool which makes life easier.
Features:
16. Motion Pro 08-0007 16" Curved Tire Iron
Cold forged steel16 inch long double compound curved tire ironSold individually
17. Scott 75143 Scott Shop Towels, Blue (3 Rolls, 55 towels/roll, 165 towels total)
Super strong works when wetEasily absorbs liquids, oils, and greaseIdeal for changing oil, refilling fluids and general automotive maintenanceFits on a standard towel holder for convenient dispensing of a fresh, clean towel
18. Hopkins (11838MI) FloTool Oil Drain Container - 15 Quart Capacity
Fit Type: Universal
19. Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil (1-Gallon, Single Pack, New Packaging)
- Full synthetic 5W-40 diesel engine oil with Triple Protection Plus technology protects against wear, deposits, oil breakdown, and improves low-temperature flow
- Exceptional wear protection for longer life in a wide range of heavy-duty engine applications — from pickup trucks to tractors to semi rigs
- Enhanced fuel economy capability of 1.5 percent without compromising engine protection or durability (compared to 15W-40 oils)
- Multi-functional dispersant additives provide an enhanced level of protection against the effects of soot, dirt, and other contaminants (compared to previous formulation)
- Increased shear stability for better viscosity control and optimal engine oil pressure
- Better cold-cranking properties and low-temperature pumpability for reaching critical engine parts faster
- Single 1-gallon bottle with ergonomic design for easy handling and pouring
- Advanced low ash formulation helps protect the exhaust catalysts and particulate filters found on the latest low-emission vehicles
Features:
20. Grease Monkey Disposable Nitrile All Purpose Gloves - Pack of 100 (Non Latex)
Protect and keep from continuously having to spend time washing your hands. Keep your hands clean and add gripDisposable and DurableFits like latex grips like a work glovePack of 100 gloves. Latex Free and Free of Talcom Powder that can dry out your handsSlip Resistant. Great for shop owners and ext...
See my above reply to another comment for the headlight.
As for sanding and painting,
First thing was removing the body. That took forever. I had to figure out how to get every panel off and the tail was difficult. The most important thing is keeping track of where every screw, bolt and nut went. Write all of that down and take pictures as you go. Putting back together will be almost impossible without keeping track of where to screw things into. Taking it apart will make sense as you go.
Buy a bag of rivets tho so you don’t care when you break them like I did.
GZYF 100Pcs 8mm Push Type Nylon... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DYN4L1G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I did not remove the gas tank. I unscrewed the top 2 bolts near the dash so I could lift it up and put a large towel underneath it. I covered every part of the bike around the gas tank so I didn’t get paint on anything I didn’t want to. I used towels I didn’t care about so I could just throw them away when I was done.
Do not do this outside by the way. Dirt and bugs will get in your way when you end up painting. Also direct sunlight will be bad for the paint when it is drying.
So I bought a cheap plastic shower curtain to lay down in my back room of the house so I could put all of the pieces I took off the bike on a safe surface that could be thrown away when done and had room to walk around all the pieces. Use a room that can be ventilated or has windows at least.
Sanding is the first part. I don’t remember the exact grades I had but I had a course, a fine and a super fine grade.
Course is to get the paint off and help any deep scratches. I did 2 runs of course for every piece and the gas tank. Wipe down all the pieces with a microfiber cloth after every run through of sanding. I had a sander to help and hand sanded for hard to get angles.
Then I did 1 run on every piece with fine grade after words to smooth things out.
Buy a can or 2 of scratch filler. I don’t have a link since I bought it local but you should be able to find some at any auto store.
I did 2 runs of scratch filler for any bad scratches still left over for every piece and gas tank whiledoing 1 run of fine and then super fine after each run of scratch filler.
If you need to do more runs that’s fine. You just need to end up filling the scratches and having a smooth surface with most of the paint off. I have read that you don’t need to get all the way down to the metal which I didn’t.
Painting is the hard part because spray paint fucks up easy. I didn’t have a nice spray gun so I just made super to not start my sprays directly on my pieces. I either started below or above them and just did small strokes of sprays across until I had covered the whole piece or gas tank. Sand between each paint run with super fine to help prevent imperfections. You can do as many runs as you want But I used 2 cans of semi gloss black all together. There are YouTube’s videos on good spray painting techniques. I waited 3 hours after painting to sand but I don’t know if that is the recommended wait time.
After the painting is clearcoat. Get a good clearcoat that prevents sun damage and paint damage and rust if possible. I bought this local as well so no links. I did maybe 2 runs of clearcoat to finish and waited 2 hours between each clearcoat run.
Then it just needed to be put back together.
Let me know if all of that makes sense. I can try to go into more detail if need be.
Wheel weights can really just go anywhere on the wheel there's a flat enough spot to stick it to, but I try to get it as close to the center as possible. I use stick-on weights, but the guy who I had doing my tires before always used the clamp-on weights. Both seem just fine.
You throw the wheel with tire onto the balancer and the heavy spot will orient itself downward. Add the weights to the light end that is upward. I use a piece of electrical tape to hold weights on temporarily and add them until it's balanced enough that the wheel wont spin on its own. It's not as awesome as those big expensive machines that tell you where to put the weights, but I've personally never had issues. Just takes patience and forethought.
Here are the tool I use:
Rim savers These work very well, but I think if you have spoons that aren't flat and wide like the motion pros it can break the plastic it's made from. Mixed reviews. Some recommend three, but they're sold in pairs. I went ahead and got two sets in case I broke one somehow.
Wheel balancer I had heard horror stories about the cheaper end balancers and figured I'd just do it right the first time and went ahead and got this thing. Very solid piece of equipment.
Two smaller spoons - These work great I think. I have a slight bias toward motion pro since, in my experience, they make good stuff.
Large spoon - It's useful for the last part of the tire if you can't manage it with a shorter spoon. More leverage. Not entirely necessary, but three total spoons is ideal.
Air compressor - To set a bead you need one with a high enough PSI, but this was bought with the air tools in mind. I'm pretty sure it would be overkill for just mounting tires.
Bead breaker - There is a motorcycle specific one that I saw, but it seemed like it was designed for scooter wheels that are much smaller. I saw it in action at a friends house and it works fine as well.
There are competing brands and vendors for everything you can think of, so shop around for whatever you decide on doing. There's a good chance there's a better deal out there on something. I just use amazon for reference.
Barely...
I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.
0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.
Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.
Here is the filter you need (just search for the model number on Amazon and you can buy it there. Your model number is KN-138). For oil, I run Rotella Synthetic, but any 5W-40 or 10W-40 will work (the 5 and 10 just designate the temperature at which it will still run well, ie 5 C or 10 C. I live in the north east so I go for 5 for peace of mind). Regardless of which you choose, you'll need about 2.9 quarts for a full (ie with filter) change.
Get some nitrile gloves (especially for spreading oil on the filter when you install it), shop towels for clean up, and you may want to look into getting a new crush washer for the drain bolt (not sure if/when yours has ever been replaced. They can last a while, but it's not a bad idea to replace it if you aren't sure). An oil filter clamp isn't a bad idea to help with getting them off, but I doubt you'll have issue with it. Don’t forget a good oil drain pan (I recommend this one with a screw in, top spout – this is what the oil would drain into – the oil filter holder on the top so it can drain over 24 hours, as well as a front spout), as well as a funnel to help you get the oil in.
Let me know if you need help with anything else. I've found these instructions helpful for those new to it and they are the exact same for you, too. What do you need to change the rectifier for?
I have an LED headlight assembly I'd be willing to sell you. I had it on my SV650 originally but I decided to buy a halogen headlight assembly instead because I like how it looks better than the LED. The led assembly is pretty nice though, I bought it from Amazon for $100 and it has Integrated turn signals if you decided to use them. It's still in good shape, I'd say $50 would be fair for it. Here's what it looks like on my bike: http://imgur.com/a/xraOlqr
Here's also a link to it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MVXJBL/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_g.RADbQ49QRX4
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=13IVJB32CWN3L&keywords=jus+screwdriver&qid=1555384541&s=gateway&sprefix=jis+&sr=8-2
https://www.youtube.com/user/conleybuilt
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LBDK8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the shim kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UKM6LG/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
measure the shim before you put it in. You will be doing extra work if you replace a shim only to discover it's the wrong size after install when you're double checking everything.
Found the link, looks like I got most of it. There's other good stuff though.
https://www.reddit.com/r/SVRiders/comments/an7gab/you_guys_rock/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRJF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
Edit
I have the Auxbeam LED Headlight Bulbs F-S2 series. They were only $30 for a pair and recommended in this thread on the svrider forum. I had to lower the beam somewhat but in my layman's opinion they're better than halogen. Bright white light, the high beam is shorter than with halogen but the whiter light makes street signs easier to read at night. I've used it on multiple winter night rides in the past 3 months and wouldn't go back to halogen.
Still have the second one if someone's interested.
my used bike came with napoleon mirrors (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTWPDA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004WPQZTE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1MG9R0T99H3RHBMZZGSK) that look to be made for the sv. great vision and adaptability for super low cost.
somewhat related question (but i doubt it's enough to warrant a new thread): has anyone mounted bar-end turn signals and mirrors together and know of a good combination?
So you might not remember but you gave me a bunch of info and stuff on SV's when I was choosing what kind of bike to get and ended up napping a dope deal on an 07 SV650. The first thing I did was order those exact same bar ends from OP's post. They are pretty fuckin fantastic. Cheap enough that even if they break I don't really care but well made enough that they don't move when I ride. The installation should be really easy but without any instructions it has the potential to be a pain in the ass, youtube fixes that problem.
the bar ends are like a solid 8/10. So worth the ten bucks you can nab them for here.
So it was converted by a shop in the Portland area, but they essentially just rigged up a couple Home Depot brackets to hold the speedometer in place:
http://imgur.com/tkcSpCP
http://imgur.com/hGMSl9h
http://imgur.com/wUkNzX1
And then I bough and installed this headlight unit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MVXJBL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
All things considered it looks pretty good I think!
rear stand - doesn't matter, get whatever.
front stand get the kind that lifts by the steering stem, it's much more versatile because you can lift the bike up and take the forks and the wheel off. this is what I have. works great, clears the body work just fine and didn't break the bank
> What rearview mirrors are those? How do you like them?
Honestly, just these. They get the job done and I can more or less see everything going on behind me: http://amzn.com/B002GTKAHQ
> Do you notice a big difference after installing the aTRE?
I can't say, I haven't ridden it yet : (
> What happened? Sorry to hear :S
Some idiot kid pulled his bike out in front of me at the absolute very last possible second and gave me nowhere to go. I went over the bars and straight into the ground and it seems my fibula broke my fall. Needless to say I've invested some good money in race-spec boots this time around.
What this guy said. Get a triple tree stand, its worth the extra money and makes taking tires off 100x easier.
This is what I have as my front stand. Its solid steel tubing and I like it.
This is what I have as my rear. It does okay but it I would not put a bike heavier than the SV650 on it. I'd probably get the rear stand equivalent of the front stand I have.
Not sure if this post is dead but I just installed these bar end mirrors and they are working out beautifully:
Amazon Link
Youtube video I watched to install them
I got this one, works quite well.
SKTYANTS 7" 7 Inch led Headlights with 7 inch Housing Bucket DRL Turn Signal Lights Motorcycle for Harley Da-vidsion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MVXJBL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1dYwDb2GWFVBQ
Napoleon bar end mirrors. I have them on mine. Love them to death. They're dense meaning they take up vibration, they are well built and don't vibrate at high revs that make most mirrors unusable. And they stay in the position you put them. And you can also flip them out of the way easily for splitting or parking. I crashed my bike, the metal, frame and all stayed together didn't twist deform or anything just the glass broke. I bought another one to replace it while waiting for cops and first responders to show up because I'll never buy any others.
Nothing has the weight, build quality and look that they do.
NAPOLEON AP Universal Bar End Mirror Black (AP-104) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTWPDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dttQybBDDJQNS
Not sure how I feel about the shape of those. I currently have some bar end mirrors that are round. The only complaint I have about them is that one of the mirrors frame is loose from the neck piece that holds it. It sounds like similar issues to what people have with these.
Maybe I'll try some glue or something. I just would like some solid bar end mirrors. I don't care if I have to pay more for them as long as they work well.
This is one of them
I hated these because... ugly. But worse is they are too convex, almost fisheye. Very difficult to gauge distance.
These however are perfect and look waaaay better Fantastic visibility and angle of view. The only complaint, as listed in the reviews, is that they may be loose in the actual mirrors ball joint and move in the wind. I cleaned mine up with alcohol and a swab and then hit the back of the mirror with some hot glue and it's perfect. It's still moveable but not locked in place.