(Part 2) Best products from r/SWORDS
We found 21 comments on r/SWORDS discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 184 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
21. Modern Japanese Swords and Swordsmiths: From 1868 to the Present
Used Book in Good Condition
25. MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 6 PACK
- PREMIUM MATERIALS: Extremely high-quality, soft, microfiber material absorbs and removes dust, oil, smudges, fingerprints, and dirt. Leaves no scratches, streaks, marks, or lint.
- PROTECTIVE: Each pack of MagicFiber comes in their own polybag so that they are always like new and ready to use. Includes 6 MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (5 black, 1 Grey) 6 x 7 inches (15cm x 18cm)
- SAFE TO USE ANYWHERE: Can be used on any delicate surface like LCD TV screens, smart phones and other touch screens, camera lenses and filters, etc. Stores perfectly flat in your tablet case without adding any bulk. Awesome for a camera bag, purse, or eyeglass case.
Features:
28. Woodstock SteeleX D1130 1000 Grit and 6000 Grit Japanese Waterstone
Grit: 1000 and Grit: 6000 combinationOnly water is need to lubricate the cutting edge
29. Dandaofa Xuan - Chinese Long Saber Techniques Anthology
- One for All: Adaptive charging modes give your device the power it needs: 5W for all standard Qi-compatible devices, 7.5W for iPhone fast charging, and 10W for Samsung fast charging.
- Multi-Charging: While wirelessly charging your phone, you can simultaneously charge other devices via two additional high-speed USB-A ports (12W total output).
- Flip It: You can now choose between charging horizontally or vertically. Whether you're watching a video or checking your messages, you don't need to stop charging.
- Case Friendly: Don't fumble with your phone case. PowerWave 10 Stand charges directly through protective cases. Rubber/plastic/TPU cases less than 5 mm thick only. Magnetic and metal attachments or cards will prevent charging.
- What You Get: PowerWave 10 Stand with 2 USB-A Ports, 36W DC adapter with 5 ft cable, welcome guide, worry-free 18-month warranty, and friendly customer service.
Features:
30. Arms & Armour: At the Jaipur Court, The Royal Collection
- Niyogi Books
Features:
31. Hindu Arms and Ritual: Arms and Armour from India 1400-1865
- Backed by a 5-Year Limited Warranty, this shop vacuum cleaner has a tough copolymer drum that resists dents, cracks and will not rust. It also includes a large drain for easy liquid disposal.
- 7-ft. x 2-1/2-inch Dual-Flex locking hose offers 180 Degree flexibility at both hose ends. Locking tab keeps hose connected to the wet dry vacuum cleaner during use.
- Qwik Lock Filter Fastening System allows quick and easy wet dry vacuum filter changes and contains an auto shut-off float mechanism that helps prevent overflow during wet pickups.
- Accessory and built-in hose storage keeps vacuum attachments secure and within reach.
- Integrated Blowing Port provides added versatility to this powerful wet dry vacuum cleaner, allowing a user to blow unwanted debris out of garages, jobsites, and driveways.
- Accessories Included: 7 ft. Locking Hose, Utility Nozzle, Car Nozzle, Wet Nozzle, 2 Extension Wands, Standard Filter, Dust Collection Bag
- Powerful wet dry shop vacuum with on-board storage for accessories, hose and cord
- 7-foot Dual-Flex hose with large 2-1/2-inch diameter reduces clogging, and offers 180 degree flexibility at both ends for easier maneuverability
- 15-foot power cord provides plenty of reach; large drain port to easily empty wet messes, and integrated blower for added versatility
- Covered by 5-year limited warranty
- Includes: vacuum, hose, Qwik Lock cartridge filter, dust bag, utility nozzle, wet nozzle, car nozzle, two extension wands
Features:
32. nvGlow Wall Hanger Sword Hook for Medieval Long Sword Arming Dagger Long Blade
Self adjusts from 3/4-inch to 2-1/2 inchesSelf leveling. Fits swords as wide as 2.5"Material: Stainless steelMounting hardware includedCondition: Brand new in box
33. The Noble Art of the Sword: Fashion and Fencing in Renaissance Europe 1520–1630
36. Flitz BU 03515 Metal, Plastic and Fiberglass Polish Paste - 5.29 oz.
- MULTI-PURPOSE CLEANER: Has the industrial strength cleaning power to protect and polish metal, plastic, fiberglass, aluminum and chrome. Even removes rust, graffiti and can restore headlights, yet gentle enough to use every day for kitchen, bathroom, and even jewelry (diamond rings, sterling silver, and gold).
- EASILY REMOVES: Tarnish, Rust, Water Stains, Chalking, Lime Deposits, Heat Discoloration, Lead & Powder Residue, Oxidation, Bugs, Tar, Oil, Fingerprints, Tree Sap, Bird Droppings, Graffiti, Dyes, Black Streaks/Scuff Marks.
- USE ON: Brass, Copper, Silver-plate, Sterling Silver, Chrome, Stainless Steel, Nickel, Bronze, Solid Gold, Aluminum, Anodized Aluminum, Beryllium, Magnesium, Platinum, Pewter, Factory Hot Gun Bluing, Painted Surfaces, Formica, Cultured Marble, Corian, Glass, Plexiglas, Plastics, Fiberglass, Eisenglass, and Armatel
- MAXIMUM SAFETY: Non-toxic, non-abrasive, non-flammable. Flits is even safe to use on food preparation surfaces. Safe enough to use in the kitchen or the bathroom, strong enough to use in the garage.
- MADE IN THE USA: This polish is developed in Germany with advanced German ingredients and proudly made at our headquarters in Wisconsin. Flits is a 42-year-old family owned company and we stand by all of our products. If you don’t love our product, we offer a 30-day money back .
Features:
37. Ace Martial Arts Supply Handmade Japanese Shirasaya Samurai Katana Sharp Sword-Musha
- Original Musashi/Musha quality katana
- Razor Sharp Handmade Full Tang Katana
- Blade is made from high quality carbon steel 1045
- Check the Musha engraving on seppa (spacer) for authenticity with Musha box.
- Don't settle with a counterfeit one.
Features:
38. Swan Isopropyl Alcohol, 99%, Pint, 16 OZ
- 99% Isopropyl Alcohol for topical antimicrobial needs
- For Treatment of Minor Cuts and Abrasions - Helps prevent risk of infection
- Topical Antiseptic and Sanitizer
- For Rubbing and Massaging
Features:
39. Scott Shop Towels Original (75130), Blue Shop Towels, 1 Roll / Pack, 30 Packs / Case
- 55 shop towels per roll, 30 rolls per case. Each Scott shop towel is up to the task at hand with its 9.4" x 11" size
- These bulk shop towels are designed for cleaning up grease, liquids, oils and spills in automotive repairs and garages
- Each shop paper towel is ultra-strong, durable and works well even when wet
- Use them for changing oil, refilling fluids and general automotive maintenance
Features:
40. AmazonBasics Blue, White, and Yellow Microfiber Cleaning Cloth - Pack of 24
Ultra soft, non-abrasive microfiber cloths will not scratch paints, coats or other surfacesCleans with or without chemical cleaners, leaves lint and streak free resultsAbsorbs eight times its own weightPack comes with three different towel colors (blue, yellow, and white)Rinse and reuse 100's of tim...
Yes, this is possible. However, there are a number of factors to consider and things to clarify.
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First, why do you want a sword, exactly? What kind of sword? What do intend for it? Just some reasons people may want to acquire a sword, all of which influence what sword is right for them, and some of which have overlap:
Even making the reasonable assumption that you want a real sword, what counts as real to you? For instance, just in the case of Japanese swords, you can get:
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Second — what is your budget? You can expect stuff around the following just for Japanese blades (all very rough price ranges, use these for order of magnitude rather than reliable marks):
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Also… there's a lot of complexity and semantics involved here, but Korean swords aren't katana. Some of them look quite similar to katana, but it seems fairly incongruous to me that you are ambivalent about whether this hypothetical blade comes from Japan or Korea. That's not to say Japanese blades are better than Korean or vice-versa, just that (meaning no offense) treating the two as equivalent suggests you don't really know a lot about swords in general, and nihontō in specific.
The best metaphor I can think of is someone saying they'd like to buy a premium champagne, and holding up a bottle of actual champagne next to a bottle of prosecco. That person isn't saying they want champagne, they're saying they want a sparkling white wine. There are both good / exceptional prosecco bottles, and mediocre champagnes! The point is they are actually different in a fundamental way. They're made from different grapes, using different processes, and they don't have identical tastes even if they are superficially similar.
To you I would strongly suggest that if you are at all interested in commissioning a shinsakutō (newly-made Japanese sword), you learn a bit first, starting with the wiki here: https://www.reddit.com/r/SWORDS/wiki/nihonto and the book suggestions therein. I also strongly recommend the book Modern Japanese Swords and Swordsmiths.
You should understand that to become a swordsmith in Japan requires a lengthy apprenticeship and a legal government license. There are strict controls on what counts as nihontō, designed to preserve a craft that has been transmitted for centuries.
There isn't anything comparable from a systemic and legal perspective in Korea (that I know of). I cannot say much more about Korean smiths; I know there is at least one researching and making traditional Korean weapons, and they may be making heroic efforts of their own to preserve that craftsmanship. But my point is if you're going to spend a lot of money, you should understand precisely what you are buying and why it costs what it does.
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Finally, if you are still interested in commissioning a blade, especially meeting the smith first… I'd get in touch with Paul Martin. He can help with the arrangements.
Regards,
—Gabriel
A cheap katana is a good one to start out with, since you won't feel bad when you screw it up. :)
Generally speaking, that maintenance kit has pretty much all the basics for general care. you'll probably want to oil it with the choji oil every few months if you're not using it. If you are using it for cutting practice or the like, make sure it's oiled at least once a week. (Or after each session, if you're cutting water bottles.) A few drops is plenty.
If you want to practice sharpening, there's the super-traditional way, which would take up several pages. Feel free to research that on your own - I don't really bother since it's a pain, involves taking out the mekugi pins and all, and I'm not quite comfortable doing that yet. Plus, don't have replacement pins, and the ones I've got aren't loose.
Katanas are supposed to be pretty darn hard steel. Depending on the kind of steel you've got, you might use different care than the traditional kit uses. For instance, if you've just lost a slight 'true' from your hard edge through use, the uchiko ball there is plenty enough to fix that. You tap it over the blade, and it releases some very fine powder from sharpening stones, which you then rub over the blade (carefully) with rice paper, and that re-sharpens the edge.
If you've got a regular steel (or even mild steel) blade like me, though, you'll need a whetstone of some nature to sharpen it. I do use Japanese water stones for sharpening. They're pretty easy to use, and if you've got rust spots from not oiling your sword regularly, you can actually take some of the slurry off the top of the stone and just rub down the rust spots with it using a small cloth and they'll come right off. That uchiko ball might also just do the same thing - I have to confess, I haven't used one.
If it's mild steel, though, you may just well develop nicks and dings in the actual blade itself. You can feel these running your fingers gently along the sides of the edge (not directly on the edge!). If that's the sort of blade you've got, well... fixing small ones is simple. Use a brillo pad, squeezing along the sides of the edges, and they come right out. If they're large, and you're CERTAIN you've got mild steel, you might need to file the edge back and then sharpen the whole thing.
I have that one! It's huuuuuuge and deadly sharp made by Dragon King. I would comment that it isn't a typical Chinese saber or sword both the blade and grip are much, much longer and the weapon is heavier than is normal for a Chinese sword or saber.
Honestly, there's better "first choices" on Seven Stars. My advice:
for the money you are looking at spending, you could get:
the cutting jian ($295) https://sevenstarstrading.com/site/hanwei/cuttingjian/
AND
the oxtail dao ($179) https://sevenstarstrading.com/site/huanuo/oxtail/
BOTH!
That would give you an excellent starter sword and a saber. I was in your shoes in 2015 and wish I'd heard what I just told you...
Yes, these are kind of stripped-down designs without the fancy finish but I think Scott is trying to offer affordable quality here. They had more offerings a few months ago in the $800-1200 range but again more fancy than introductory - and looks like they sold out - ago so keep tuned in.
Go ahead and email Scott Rodell at Seven Stars and tell him - briefly - about your interests and that one of his customers is making that suggestion - ask him what he suggests given your interests.
Scott Rodell owner of Seven Stars also published the 400 year old manual for this saber or "dao" - this is a miao or dan dao - so you can read about the history of this weapon's design. In short, it is a battlefield saber designed to counter the long blades of the katanas used by Japanese pirates who where beating on eastern China. Generally the Chinese military used shorter sabers or dao.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A0EM6WK/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i1
Scott Rodell has an impeccable reputation as a teacher of Chinese sword jian or gim and saber dao. He is also a highly reputable dealer in antique and modern reproductions - he designed the cutting jian based on his knowledge of antique Chinese swords.
https://www.google.com/search?q=scott+rodell&oq=scott+rodell&aqs=chrome..69i57j35i39j0j69i65l3.3637j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
The fork in the road in Chinese sword collecting / training is: saber / dao or a sword jian / gim?
Generally, in Chinese culture, sabers are fighting oriented and less sophisticated / subtle / intellectual than swords. If you watch kung fu movies, the mass of bad guys who get chopped up by the hero are all using sabers. Some heroes do as well.
In those movies, a sword always indicates someone of skill and education - thugs and rustics don't use swords.
There's a kind of Chinese sword called "Han jian" which is from the ancient Han dynasty https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Han_dynasty
and the emergence of the great schools of Chinese philosophy: daoism, Confucianism, legalism, etc. They look cool but the hilts on Han jian are ROUND and not good for blade indexing. They are popular because it points to a nostalgic "golden age" of "pure" Chinese culture before it "mixed" with Korean, Tibetan, Mongolian, Manchu, Japanese, etc. But the martial arts forms for Han jian are long lost. Current martial arts are based on the weapons Seven Stars sells.
Additional resources:
https://www.mandarinmansion.com/ - go here, read everything, you will learn a ton.
https://www.chineselongsword.com/ - books and videos Jack Chen is a good guy - video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zi8jWeBNyU
and the Great River Taoist Center - Rodell's school in VA
https://www.grtc.org/
There's a lot out there so let me know if you have any other questions.
干杯 Gānbēi - Cheers!
There are plenty of Indian temple swords with hilts like this. Don't know whether they're usually called "khanda". ("Khanda" basically just means "sword", but in English is usually used to refer to swords with the Indian (half-)basket hilt (unless they have long Solingen blades, or Indian imitations thereof, in which case they're "firangi"), but "khanda" is also used for swords with the south Indian non-basket hilt like this example, as long as the blades are not too non-khanda, whatever that might mean - isn't Indian sword terminology fun!) The temple swords usually have pretty funky blades.
But yes, there are many ceremonial Indian swords, just as there are many ceremonial Western swords, Chinese swords, and Japanese swords. For old khanda (basket + south Indian hilt), say mid-19th century and earlier, most were battle swords. Later than that, and there are lots of tourist swords, fake antiques, and religious/ceremonial swords.
As for the example above, it looks like a temple sword:
http://www.icollector.com/A-SOUTH-INDIAN-NAYAR-SWORD_i15525414
The guard is the same as on battle swords; the one I got to play with was a battle sword. If you're OK with a hilt like a tulwar hilt that stops you from bending your wrist (much), you shouldn't have any problem with this style of hilt.
A similar, but less severe, bent-down (up?) guard is usual on the khanda basket-hilt. These are comfortable; lock the hand in place, with a bit of room at the top for comfort.
Not so much good reliable info on Indian swords out there. There's some in the old classics like Egerton and Stone, and Rawson's "The Indian Sword", G. N. Pant's books (mostly drawings, not photos, at least in his multi-volume Indian arms & armour books; his museum catalogue books might be more photographic), E Jaiwant Paul's "By My Sword and Shield: Traditional Weapons of the Indian Warrior", and the splendid Hindu Arms and Ritual, by Robert Elgood; there's also Elgood's new Arms & Armour: At the Jaipur Court the Royal Collection, but I haven't had a chance to look at it.
I like these vertical wall mounts: https://www.amazon.com/Hanger-Sword-Medieval-Arming-Dagger/dp/B01MXVADIU/ref=pd_day0_200_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=00VBBVFRR6YKQ0K1KTD8
Works great for medieval european swords, and yes it should be fine to hold them long term. I use them for many of my swords
Horizontal mounts usually hold the sword by the blade portion with handle hanging off one end. So you are correct in your assumption.
Most of the sword hangers you get online are cheap pressboard. If you want something truly nice, you may wan to build it yourself... it's a pretty easy thing to do.
Edit: also mounting swords horizontally is usually done on the spine of the sword for single edge blades like sabers or katanas(edge pointing up).
http://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BU-03515-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B001447VB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415075546&sr=8-1&keywords=flitz
This stuff works wonders. I use it to take off surface rust on my swords and knives. It smells terrible, but it's non-toxic, food safe, and most importantly, non-abrasive. It uses some sort of proprietary chemical effect to react and lift off iron oxide(rust) without damaging any actual steel. It's pretty awesome stuff, and one bottle will last you years.
$35 and everyone loves it.
I don't own it, but I've seen it in vidyas, and it's on my to-buy list. It's usually priced at $60.
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EDIT:
I just saw this Amazon comment:
>I first ordered this in early June and liked the sword so much, I ordered another just to have around in case I damaged the first one.
>The second one I recieved was completely different from the first: I don't even think it's from the same manufacturer. It's definitely not the sword shown in the picture and it's no where near as nice as the first is.
>I suspect the seller ran out of the original sword that everyone was giving positive reviews and decided to ride the gravy train by quietly switching to a different sword.
>EDIT: I've added an image of the two side-by-side to show some of the differences.
It might be wiser to pony up $60 to True Swords, which is a very reputable seller.
Here is the mobile version of your link