Best products from r/Sculpture
We found 25 comments on r/Sculpture discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 36 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Sculpey Super Sculpturing Compound 1 lb. box, Beige
- Super Sculpey 1 lb (16oz) Box, Beige
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3. Pop Sculpture: How to Create Action Figures and Collectible Statues
- Watson-Guptill Publications
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5. 500 Animals in Clay: Contemporary Expressions of the Animal Form (500 Series)
7. Contemporary Stone Sculpture: Aesthetics Methods Appreciation
- Used Book in Good Condition
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9. Set of 12 Stone Carving Chisels/Knives
Special knives for carving stone stamps, Not designed for large Stone sculpture used with hammer.Made of steel, long usage life.Comes in a box5-1/2Hand-Carving Tool. Great for details.
10. Darice 11-Piece Clay Tools Set from Studio 71 – Metal Tipped Clay Sculpting Tools with Wood Handles, Ideal for Cleaning and Creating Decorative Effects on Clay Surfaces
CLAY TOOLS SET– When you work with clay, things can get messy! This 11-piece Studio 71 Clay Cleaning Tool Set makes cleaning your greenware simple and easy. Everything you need is right at your fingertips with these modeling clay tools.VERSATILE – Not just for cleaning clay, these clay tools can...
11. ACTIVA La Doll Natural Air Dry Stone Clay 1.1 pound (500g) (1600)
The superior air dry, natural stone clay for intricate and ultra-fine detail workThe preferred choice of world renown professional doll artists and ceramicists; pliable and easily worked for spectacular resultsHas highly refined pumice, talc and special binders for a hard, satin smooth finish; long ...
12. ACTIVA La Doll Premier Natural Air Dry Stone Clay 10.5 ounce (300g)
The superior air dry, natural stone clay for intricate and ultra-fine detail workThe preferred choice of world renown professional doll artists and ceramicists; pliable and easily worked for spectacular resultsHas highly refined pumice, talc and special binders for a hard, satin smooth finish; long ...
13. Fantasy Creatures in Clay: Techniques for Sculpting Dragons, Griffins and More
14. Vktech 10PCS Wooden Clay Sculpture Knife Pottery Sharpen Modeling Tools Set (10PCS Wooden)
- Length: Approx. 14.5-15.6cm
- Material: Wood
- Consists of 10 double ended tools
- The curved end contours delicate features.
- Wooden Clay Sculpture knife
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15. DAFA Professional 18" x 12" Self-Healing, Double-Sided Cutting Mat, Rotary Blade Compatible, (36x24), (24x18), (18x12), (12x9) Sizes, for Sewing, Quilting, Arts & Crafts
- Professional-quality, double-sided self-healing cutting mat has easy to read metric gridlines & angles on one side and imperial (inches) gridlines & angles on the opposite side. Double-sided mats offer greater flexibility and twice the useful lifetime of single sided mats
- Ideal for quilting, sewing, scrapbooking, arts and crafts, DIY projects or use as a desktop mat or protector
- Durable 3mm, 3-ply construction for heavy duty cutting, compatible with rotary cutters and straight blades. Super tough core layer is made to resist the toughest of cuts - protect your work surface!
- Non-slip, non-glare, self-healing finish reseals surface cuts, providing a continually smooth surface for all cutting projects. Ships flat, stays flat. Our mats resist curling and warping
- Please note: for ease of comparison, mat sizes are rounded to the nearest inch. Exact sizes (edge to edge) are as follows: A1(35.5in x 23.6in, 900mm x 600mm), A2(23.6in x 17.7in, 600mm x 450mm), A3(17.7in x 11.8in, 450mm x 300mm), A4(11.8in x 8.7in, 300mm x 220mm).
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17. Polyform Premo Clay Sampler Pack, Assorted Colors, 24-Pack
Soft enough to blend easily but firm enough to hold fine detail.The best choice for professional techniques: caning, mokume gane and mica shift due to its unique formulation and ease of achieving consistent results.Retains flexibility after baking so the finished product remains very strong and dura...
18. iCraft SuperTape Strong Double Sided Permanent Adhesive, 1/2" x 6 yards
- When it comes to adhering heavier embellishments, creating borders, or just when you need that extra support of a stronger adhesive, nothing works better than iCraft SuperTape
- Ideal for heavier gift wrapping paper such as glitter paper
- 1/2 inch x 6 yards (13 mm x 5.5 mm)
- Heat and water resistant, acid-free and permanent
- Available in: 1/8 inch, 1/4 inch, and 1/2 inch rolls as well as 4.5 inch x 5.5 inch sheets (each sold separately)
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19. Minetom Fairy Lights Plug in, 100Ft 300LED Waterproof Firefly Lights on Copper Wire - UL Adaptor Included, Starry String Lights for Wedding Indoor Outdoor Christmas Patio Garden Decoration, Warm White
- Bright: Led string lights are composed of 300 warm white micro leds with big chips, brighter than other's led fairy lights. Perfect decoration for wedding, party and kids' rooms
- Waterproof and safe: These wall lights bedroom string (except the power adapter) is IP65 waterproof, no need to worry about damage to the string or shorting the string. The lights remain cool to touch, no worry about overheat even working all night
- Flexible and sturdy wire: High quality 3 strands copper wire is sturdy, help keep stable brightness. These mini lights are so flexible, can be easily twisted into any shape, even wrapped on a pole. Reel in the wire lights to keep it tidy for next use
- Great mood lifter: Accent lighting is perfect for upgrading the sense of your place, adding romantic atmospheres to your party, restaurant, shops, Christmas, holiday, wedding and wrapping around outdoor patio, porch railing, or indoor furniture, plants and anywhere else
- Starry Light: Numerous led wrapped with epoxy, creating a misty and dreamy lighting effect, like the firefly dancing in your garden, like the dotted star in the deep sky
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20. J-B Weld 8297 HighHeat 550 Degree Epoxy Putty Stick - 2 oz.
J-B WELD HIGHHEAT: A hand mixable two part epoxy putty stick that is formulated to repair and rebuild materials that will be exposed to high temperatures in automotive and industrial maintenance applications. J-B Weld HighHeat is designed for DIY repairs on exhaust manifolds, tail pipes, mufflers, e...
A tool kit sounds like a great gift - I think many artists shamelessly stockpile tools. A learning book might be good, but they do vary in quality and also make sure you get a book that's correct for the type of things she wants to do. If you choose a good one, it could serve as a reference for years. One thing you didn't think of is a book of inspiration. I've found a lot of value in collections of artwork related to topics I'm interested in. For example, I was given 500 Animals in Clay and I love just looking through it. Maybe you can find an ocean or ocean creature related art book if your friend likes octopi. Good luck!
Here comes a wall of text so brace yourselves.
First, stone carving is awesome, it is what I do and it is like an addiction. No better material to sculpt with IMHO. There is something to be said from learning autodidactically (I was originally self taught but have done some formal training), but you also don't need to waste time re-inventing the wheel. So do some research, but don't be afraid to break the "rules as you get a feel for things.
Soap stone carving is very different from other stone, as the tools and techniques are completely different. I started with limestone, and now work in Marble and Granite. Be fore warned, unless you have a quarry nearby, soapstone is very expensive($2-$3/lbs). If you decide you like carving after a couple of test sculptures in soapstone, I suggest that you find out what is quarried in your area, and see about getting material from the scrap pile (often way cheaper for material).
The set you have will give you a basic ability to work on very soft stone. I would need to see a better picture of the blunt end of the tool but it is likely either for burnishing(rubbing) or possibly for cutting rounded grooves(a rondel chisel but I am not sure)
If you plan to do any detail work, then you will likely want to use a rotary tool(Dremel or similar) to speed the process.
The book suggested by Artistic programmer is likely a decent choice, Milt Liebson also has a video by the same name(I think) that was available from my public library(VHS) check that out.
Liebson is a direct carver, this means he usually starts a sculpture with little to no pre-design this works for some, not for others. Classically, sculptors would build clay or plaster maquettes(models) and then work the design into the stone. Personally, I do a little of both types of carving, often starting with a nebulous image, and refining it based on what I find in the stone.
I would also recommend the following books:
Sculpture in Stone
Contemporary Stone Sculpture
Last but not least for the love of all that you hold dear be concious of the health hazards!!! Wear a dust mask, some stones contain asbestos, or silica or other harmful minerals. work in a well ventilated space, and wear safety goggles.
TL:DR Carving is awesome, check the books, break the rules and WEAR THE DAMN SAFETY EQUIPMENT!!!
I think anatomy is the single biggest thing that will give you the most bang for your buck. Understanding the basic skeletal shapes, muscles and tendons, even to an extent the surface-level veins can help.
Also, one exercise I stumbled upon accidently that I found very helpful, and yes, it seems strange... but sculpt on top of other things. I figured this out from Halloween. I have a lifecast of my head, and to make a mask, you have to sculpt on top of it. Strangely, after having done this a few times now, I realized I learned a lot doing that. You start with a thin layer of clay on top as it is, which helps you get a feel for basic shapes and proportions. But then, trying to add to that, exaggerate shapes, it teaches you how everything relates.. the spacing of eyes, the shape of ears.
Then, start practicing on just parts. Work on eyes for a while. Work on lips, and noses. Etc. You nail those, and then put those to use with the proportion/angle practice you have from before.
Check angles, too. Just like with painting and drawing, step back, look at it from different angles, squint your eyes. Take a break and walk away before looking at it again. Heck, sometimes, even sleep on it and look at it fresh the next day. I find it easy to get the head on look you want, but then find you don't like the profile, or the 3/4 view. If you don't have a turn table, get one. They are awesome! I use a cheap Wilton cake turn table, actually.
Finally, a few links I like:
Love these videos by Philipe Faraut
https://youtu.be/OZOwUgyoEy0
His website:
https://philippefaraut.com/pages/video-clips
Interactive Anatomy:
https://www.zygotebody.com/
I've watched a lot of Stan Winston school stuff, too, and got a lot out of them:
Human Head Anatomy & Sculpture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DOPWN52/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_K3hVDbYQGB01Z
They have a subscription model, too:
https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials
When I started stonecarving I began with a pretty cheap generic chisel set like this (hopefully amazon link works here) as well as a similar multi-set of rasps of different shapes. That was over 10 years ago and I still use some of them today. I think perhaps one of those kits you linked as well as an under $20 chisel set of different sizes/shapes (some double sided, some flat on top to allow hammering) would be good to let you more easily get smaller details, and to have extras if one of them breaks or chips.
I don't live on the west coast so unfortunately I can't provide locations for stone but soapstone is definitely the way to start. Other tools that you may have around that could be helpful are a hand drill and a small saw (I use a saw that is part of a leatherman style multi-tool) and a towel to work on so you don't get stone powder everywhere if doing it indoors.
Also, some art/craftsman stores sell solid blocks of clear paraffin wax for cheap. I found that grating that wax onto a finished, sanded stone piece and then using a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the wax into the stone provides a very cheap, durable finish to soapstone carvings that I liked better than using the oily "liquid wax" bottled sealers that require multiple coats and sometimes still end up looking dry. It shows the color and pattern of the stone very well. It has to get hot enough to completely melt the wax into the stone (so the wax is a totally clear layer) and then blot away any excess with a rag or paper towel. I've had pieces still look new years later using that technique and it was much cheaper and faster than using oils or room temperature liquid wax mixtures.
Definitely look into some tools!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ED3JMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_HKwmzbFWHSVPK
These are perfect start, especially for polymer clay
I'm guessing you're using super sculpey, right?
Imo, that stuff gets a bit too sticky and it's quite hard to use for detailing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026C1T8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_vPwmzb724M0JK
This stuff is great, soft but won't stick to your hands. (Won't have to deal with leaving as much finger prints)
Since you're new to this I suggest really just making hard shapes and just playing with it, instead of trying to make perfect products right off the bat.
Good luck!
I would recommend some sort of paperclay such as La Doll or Premier. Although it is rather pricey, it is super easy to work with and is easy to keep workable if you keep it wetted down and covered thoroughly. It also has a similar feel to ceramic clay, which I appreciate. When paperclay dries out it is super hard and can be sanded smooth.
That’s Sculpture Geek’s video, he uses NSP hard. At a certain point he rakes the clay and little pieces fall off. If the clay isn’t hard enough you can’t rake it. I don’t think any clay smells so strong it would leave an odor on fabrics. Roma smells the worst, like sulfur, but it’s probably the closest thing to water based clay. I love working with it but really dislike the sulfur smell. My recommendation is super sculpey. It will always stay workable and if you want to finalize a piece you can bake it in an oven. I’d get the original or medium. Here is a mat you can use. https://www.amazon.com/DAFA-Professional-Self-Healing-Double-Sided-Compatible/dp/B00P6KPKBI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=cutting+mat+craft&qid=1558533396&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Here is a set of tools https://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Sculpture-Pottery-Sharpen-Modeling/dp/B00CHH1P9E/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?keywords=sculpting+tools+wood&qid=1558534139&s=gateway&sr=8-11
You can sand down and customize the tools as you like. You can also watch live sculpting on Twitch. https://www.twitch.tv/cnotbusch He’s there almost every day.
Yours is a technical question. I don't about online tutorials, but I can recommend the excellent book titled Sculpture as Experience. It will give you a strong foundation of different sculptural materials and methods.
If I'm ever in doubt about weird chemical reactions I use that red double-sided super sticky tape Its super strong and permanent. If you heat it first the bond is REALLY strong
Umm I found some in Amazon that looked like I could just rap them around the wire in a spiral till they look even what do you think : Extra Long 52ft 300led Starry String Lights Warm White on a Flexible Copper Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ZXTWOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vhaMxb6GB8E9H
Thanks for the help
JB High Heat I've used JB Weld and JB Kwik a lot, but I haven't tried JB High Heat. The cure time is slow enough that you'd need to clip or support the metal strips in place somehow, but it will easily withstand the temperature. JB Kwik cures fast enough that you could probably hold the pieces in place while it sets up, but 300 is the upper limit of its temperature tolerance from what I've read.
original super sculpey
http://www.amazon.com/Sculpey-Super-Sculpturing-Compound-Beige/dp/B0026C1T8C
https://www.amazon.com/Modeling-Head-Clay-Creative-Techniques/dp/0823030997/ref=sr_1_2?crid=20S7PAQKU2X4T&keywords=bruno+lucchesi&qid=1562677613&s=gateway&sprefix=bruno+luc%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-2
Bruno Luchessi... I have both the head and figure books.. Best anatomy books I've seen.
You can model in Sculpey with an aluminum wire armature, separate arms, legs and similar pieces then make small keys and keyholes using epoxy putty. Then you can mold each part separately in silicone, cast into them using epoxy resin or similar polyester material. It is actually a very involved and time consuming process. Please check out this book and similar to have a better idea.
https://www.amazon.com/Pop-Sculpture-Figures-Collectible-Statues/dp/0823095223
here is a great book on sculpting figs
Try Super Sculpey: http://www.amazon.com/Sculpey-Super-Sculpturing-Compound-Beige/dp/B0026C1T8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419852457&sr=8-1&keywords=super+sculpey
some good books you can use for figurative sculpting:
https://www.amazon.com/Portrait-Sculpting-Anatomy-Expressions-Clay/dp/0975506501/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540671406&sr=8-1&keywords=phillipe+faraut
https://www.amazon.com/Clay-Bronze-Studio-Figurative-Sculpture/dp/0823006387/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540671453&sr=8-1&keywords=tuck+langland
https://www.amazon.com/Beginners-Guide-Sculpting-Characters-Clay/dp/1909414409/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1540671519&sr=1-4&keywords=figure+sculpting