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Hi, you didn't specify what size flashlight you can carry. For sheer intimidation factor, nothing beats those old school 6D flashlights that police departments used to club people and get sued for it. So, if you can manage something big, then that's something to consider as well.

Otherwise, I am going to assume that you are looking for something that is about the size of your hand or so. Please remember that flashlights are an improvised weapon second, and a flashlight first. Therefore, always focus on getting a good, quality flashlight first. What makes a flashlight good? Well, for me, it's durable construction, at least 400 lumens, IPX8 or better, and has a thumb button at the end. While there are plenty of good flashlights that fits the list, my personal one is a Fenix PD35 V2. It's not necessarily better than the competition, but merely that it tends to be cheaper than the rest while still being a good flashlight.

OK, now let's talk about a flashlight as an improvised weapon. First, I just want to say that if all you have is a flashlight in a fight, you're not in a good situation at all. It should never be one of your go-to self-defense tools. It should be more along the lines of, perhaps you got jumped and you are already holding your flashlight, or you need to positively identify your target first, or perhaps for legal reasons, you are simply not allowed anything else.

With that out of the way, let's talk about how a flashlight can be used tactically. For starters, the brightness of the light can be used to potentially "blind" your opponent. I put "blind" in quotes because a lot of people think you can just stop someone by simply lighting them up (especially if the lumens are high enough), but I can tell you from personal experience that is simply not true. First of all, it's highly situational. Are you lighting someone up while the sun is still up or inside somewhere with lots of lighting? Or are you lighting someone up in total darkness? While more is always merrier, our general consensus is that about a 400 lumen minimum should be sufficient for realistic use IF you use it correctly. What do I mean by that?

What I mean is that people often times hold the light on for far too long. Even mildly determined opponents can track and fight back after that initial shock of being lit up. Instead, learn to pulse the light, as doing so will cause this green haze in their vision after you shut off the light, which is what really provides the actual blinding. That is why I insist on flashlights with a thumb button where I can quickly release my thumb to turn it off. Follow the usual doctrine as taught for low light fighting where you light up, strike, light off, and move. Again, light on, strike (or shoot), light off, move (or escape). A series of that, and you will hopefully achieve the advertised blinding effect. Never assume that just because you light somebody up with 1000+ lumens, that somebody is just going to keel over on the spot and, oh no, be so stunned that they will never be able to attack you again.

Another obvious use of a flashlight is as an improvised TID (Tactical Impact Device for short... I didn't create this word. It's been in use for like at least two decades or more.) This is the other reason why I prefer a flashlight with a thumb button at the end, because if you are going to strike someone with a flashlight, you will need a grip that can strike effectively, and that's the reverse knife grip. And if you are in a reverse knife grip, well, you might as well have a thumb button there.

Here's something that is not always mentioned, but if you actually have other weapons on hand, you can throw the flashlight at somebody as an improvised projectile and distraction. I have participated in Force-on-Force training where the opponent actually threw his flashlight at us, and while we were dodging from that, and getting distracted from its light shining erratically everywhere, the OpFor opened up with his firearm on us. I thought it was brilliant because nobody expected that one. However, the use of flashlight to distract an opponent from one angle while you hide and attack from another angle is not new, and can be quite effective if used properly.

Now here's another thing that not many talk about, but believe it or not, you can mod and kit out flashlights. For example, here's something called the Thrym Switchback. As you can see from the link, the switchback is kind of like a single-fingered brass knuckle-like Karambit attachment that also allows you to flip the flashlight out so you can hold your pistol in two-handed grip. Now, before you jump on this, please double check your laws to make sure that it is legal for you to carry. Also, some would argue that it's a bit gimmicky and unnecessary, especially if you already use pistol rail lights. I somewhat disagree, but that's another topic for another time. Here's another example, and it's even meaner looking.

For striking, most would say that the front "teeth" of the flashlight is enough. However, some have gone ahead and made add-on teeth for flashlights to improve its striking ability. Here's an example from GG&G. I have both the Switchback and the GG&G TID head. Long story short, while they are pretty neat, I admit it's mostly unnecessary. Fighting with only a flashlight is a terrible way to go to begin with, and I would worry more about its battery life than anything else. Speaking of which, I recommend ones that take either two CR123s or 18650 batteries, and then buy and use rechargeable ones.

Last but not least, I want to address the subject of punching with a roll of quarters. I am not a fan of it because it can possibly distort your fist, resulting in injuries when you strike someone. Also, I would think it slows down your punch a bit. Plus, training can easily solve all of those issues, and should result in a slightly faster punch as well. I've seen coins in a sock be used as a flail in ghetto settings, but really, you're better off using your roll of quarters to buy a quality flashlight.

Hope this helps.

So, what we teach in our self defense courses as far as weapons go, is to use whatever you have like an ice pick, with a thumb over one end. You basically strike down at whatever you can (usually a hand or arm) and re-load. It's fast and noncommittal. It's strange setting it written, but you probably get the idea.

It's long, so it sticks out the end of your hand so there's something to concentrate the force you generate with your strike. It's thin because something thicker won't ride in your pocket as easy.

Plus... It's cheap. We try to advocate stuff that works, but isn't so expensive that you don't get one.

This knife from Kershaw is just about perfect, really no matter the cost. It just happens to be cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0RSVQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xfQxDbS12HD9W

It's built like a tank, and about as expensive as other knives' sheaths. LoL

Hope this stuff helps and makes sense.

Given that guns are not a choice for you, there are still plenty of options. Professional security focuses on Layers. You should too:
-Driveway sensor or doorbell with video capabilities
-Door alarm and interior/exterior cameras
-Reinforced bedroom door

None of these options are permanent and all could be taken with you when you move.

Next, weapons- If you choose not to train with a specific weapon you should focus on something that can't be taken away and used against you. Pepper spray can have an effective spray pattern of up to 30 feet ( https://www.amazon.com/SABRE-Red-Pepper-Gel-Strength/dp/B002368VJ6/ref=sr_1_18?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485379693&sr=1-18&keywords=pepper+spray+self+defense).

A taser gun (http://www.defenseproducts101.com/tasers_introduction.html) can also be a good choice especially when combined with pepper spray.

-Next, an escape plan. Can you get out of the house from your bedroom (access to the roof, rope ladder, etc.). Do you have quick and easy access to your cell phone? Can you call a neighbor or someone who may be closer than the police?

-Practice! Practice answering the door under a threatening situation. Practice deploying your pepper spray. Know when you'd resort to your next tools. Practice locking and securing your safe room door (One of those wooden triangle used to keep doors open will also keep them closed!).

-Finally, commit to your plan. If your plan is to fight, then practice that. If your plan is to escape, resist, or give in, know in advance what you want to do.

Security doesn't have to be expensive and a gun is only a good tool for those who educate themselves and train regularly. Being prepared and making yourself look like less of a victim is much more important.

You'll find renewed confidence in doing all of this. Best of luck!

Maglites are extremely popular because their bigger models are essentially a large, heavy club disguised as a flashlight. Here's one of their huge lights that takes a whopping 6 D batteries.

It's very much a proven design as law enforcement has used these for years and they withstand abuse very well. The fact that its a big metal tube filled with 6 large batteries gives you the extra weight to really deliver a hard strike. Unfortunately due to its size, carrying it is a bit of a chore. It's not exactly pocket friendly. Also, a lot of these lights are not modern LED and rather old style incandescent style bulbs that have a shorter lifespan. They are also a lot dimmer than newer LED lights, so it will not be nearly as bright as many lights half it's size as demonstrated with this meme.

Newer lights don't have the size that Maglite does but they are much brighter, often have strobe function, better user interfaces, less battery consumption and easily fit in your pocket. Manufacturers knew the smaller size wouldn't have the strike capabilities like the larger flashlights, so some have added crenelated bezels, a sharp, jagged crown on the front of the light that can break or pierce skin. This makes up for the lack of mass and gives another method of defensive use.

In short, get the Maglite if you want a clubbing tool. Get something like a Fenix PD35 for a good, quality light with strobe. If you want a more aggressive front bezel check out the Wowtac A1S BSS edition or the Olight M1X Striker.

One option I don't see mentioned that I recommend personally is a "tactical pen". It's what my wife and I carry everywhere we go and can easily be brought in to secure locations such as airports.

It's essentially a metal pen designed to hurt your assailant allowing enough time to break free and make a run for it.

Training is of course the most important thing with whatever you decide to carry. A quick jab to the top of the hand or under an armpit will cause someone to loosen their grip allowing you to break free.

It's a very non-threatening object, yet serves the purpose. It literally looks just like a fancy pen (and functions as such too).

I got my wife this model: Columbia River Knife and Tool TPENWK Williams Tactical Pen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074FGPKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FSbkzb7P89SCX

OK, "mace" really isn't a thing anymore. There is a company called MSI (for Mace Security International) that makes sprays, and makes good ones. All the defense sprays are OC based, what is kown as pepper spray commonly. Some have various tear gas sprays mixed in. You'll see those as OC-CS or OC-CN sprays. Do your research and you'll see what the advantages and disadvantages are. The big, quality brands are MSI, Sabre, Fox, POM, and possibly Kimber. I would start with one of those and see what size you need.

I personally feel that the little canisters where you have to twist a small safety lever like this styleare hard to use under stress. Avoid fine motor skills and get one with a flip top that is easy to use and orients in your hand automatically like this Same company similar size, much easier to use under stress. All the good companies have similar ones. MSI Pom Fox
The Kimber is different, it launches with a blank instead of compressed gas. There's plenty of YouTube videos, on mobile myself but look, easy to find.
There are advantages and disadvantages to the different spray patterns and types. A fog spray is very easy for the target to inhale deeply, and it gets in the eyes and mouth and nose well, but it lacks range and is affected by wind. A narrow liquid stream is longer ranged, but requires more accuracy (fine motor skill under stress) to hit the face, eyes, etc. The gels and foams buck the wind better and the foams get behind glasses and stick, but there have been cases of opponents flicking it back at the victim. What you need depends on where you go, where you figure you're most likely to need it. They're cheap, so maybe plan on getting more than one style to keep in different places. You should also get more than one can so you can train with one of them. You can also find any nuber of YouTube videos about people getting sprayed. Watch a few and notice the limited effects OC has on people. Have a plan in case it fails. If you think someone will react to OC the way Dracula does in the movies when somebody spalshes holy water on him, you're gonna be disapointed.

I use these on windows in my house downstairs. Just having a loud alarm sound will scare intruders, because it draws attention. They’re really inexpensive, and pretty darn loud.

These are also effective, and inexpensive as well.

You can also hang little bells, or wind chimes in the window that serve a dual purpose of relaxing sounds during the day when the windows are open, as well as an effective noise maker in case someone tries to go through the window.

Alright, I suggest something like this. It's has 900 lumens, it's IP65, it has a rechargeable battery, it has a head that appears to be capable of delivering impacts, and at $25 USD, it is easily replaceable.

It is an US link though, so you may want to find the Canadian equivalent of it.

I'm a paramedic in the ghetto, and my flashlight has saved me (and the nasty folks the cops would tune up for jumping me) more times than I can count.

A flashlight is "street language" for "I am a legitimate citizen who is supposed to be here, is hiding nothing, and I might be a government employee..."

In a sketchy area at night, if I had to choose only one (for whatever dumb reason) between my pistol and a bright flashlight, I'd pick the flashlight.

Some advice about your wife's friend -

Strike while the iron's hot. Buy her this book and one other from the "other readers bought" list and y'all have a little book club talk about it. This is a great opportunity to get your wife on board with this stuff, too.

And everybody sign up for some Krav classes from a legit gym! Even if you folks only go for 3 months, you'll be better off than before (especially the gals). I teach a lot of women from "Intro to Krav" on up through their Level 2 certification, and they almost all "freeze up" when it comes to actually striking another human being. Seriously, we'll work out, practice some techniques, then I'll put on a Red Man suit and "attack"....and they can't bring themselves to strike me. It's a barrier that needs to be broken through for them to be safe from the two-legged predators that sometimes show up. My guess is it takes on average 5-20 hours of instruction to undo this societal conditioning.

It sounds like you are literally asking for some form of kevlar body armor with a ballistic armor groin protector attachment.

Legally speaking, not all places will sell body armor to just anybody. Where I live, you have to prove that you are law enforcement, military, or at least active security contractor.

Also, they tend to be expensive.

Even if you buy it, body armor is incredibly difficult for your body to perspire in. I have heat rash all over my torso from years of wearing this crap. Pro tip: If you do decide to wear one, I recommend wearing it along with this. It's going to make you look unnaturally bloated, but your body will probably thank me one day.

I used the methods in the book Raising Kids Who Can Protect Themselves with my kid.

I liked that it covered mindset and the physical components of self-defense.

> There is no reason to buy one. It's a gimmick to get your cash, they are shit..

Just buy a Zebra F-701 with a Fisher Space Pen refill. Total cost: around $11 plus shipping if you don't have Prime. It's a solid steel tube and will write anywhere, plus it doesn't scream "tactical pen!" so you can fly with it.

If you care about that sort of thing. I'd rather carry a pistol, and do.

So maybe something like this, or this perhaps.

Many judo clubs are very much non-profits. You might be able to explain your financial and living situation, and get a reduced rate. I bet most any place I've trained in the last 10 years wouldn't turn me away if I was in danger and couldn't afford training.

Tasers are just going to be expensive no matter what. Plus you have to periodically train with it, and a single training cartridge costs something like $25. May be something to think about long term, but probably not a short term solution.

One of the cheapest, fastest, and easiest things I can think of is to get some of these stickers and put one around the area of concern. It absolutely will not stop someone who knows what they are doing, but it might give pause to some people.

When I mentioned alarm systems, I was thinking something more expensive, but you could also get something like this or this. The main purpose of this is to just make sure you don't get caught sleeping. That's a nighmare scenario. If someone breaks in, and you know about it, have a bat or something and fight. Your odds really aren't that bad. (Thieves and rapists really aren't looking for a life-or-death fight.)

None of this is ideal, but it can help a lot.

In his ama Johnny Knoxville said getting sprayed with Sabre red pepper spray was the most painful thing he's ever experienced. I've used it three times (work late nights in a terrible area) and it instantly takes someone out of a fight. It's a lot easier to explain pepper spraying someone to the cops than it is to have to defend why your knuckles are bruised and the other dude is unconscious.