(Part 2) Best products from r/SmartThings

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

I don't personally own Kwikset, but if you find a repeater that supports, "beaming" technology it will work since the locks are a FLIRS devices (had to look it up -- frequently listening receiver slave) and are looking for a beaming signal.

The ones I know off the top of my head are the Aeotec 6 Repeater and the Inovelli smart plugs, but that's because I own them both. However, if you go to the Z-Wave Alliance and search for a specific product you're interested in, you can pull up that plug's conformance statement and there will be a section that says, "Supports Beaming". Just make sure it says, "Yes".

Products:
Aeotec: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Range-Extender-Z-Wave-repeater/dp/B01M6CKJXC
Inovelli: https://www.amazon.com/Control-Outlets-SmartThings-devices-Inovelli/dp/B06XG2T2S6

Z-Wave Alliance Conformance Statements:
Aeotec: https://products.z-wavealliance.org/products/1966/embedpics
Inovelli: https://products.z-wavealliance.org/products/2352/embedpics

I am also looking for something very similar, except I would like it to be powered off of 120v AC. Right now I am using Aeon Minimote spliced together with an addon remote switch.

The addon remote switch is essentially just a button that looks like a light switch. I soldered the button from that to one of the buttons on the Aeon Minimote, so when I push the remote switch button it is the same as pressing the Aeon Minimote button.

The minimote is small already, but you can remote the casing so it can fit under other switches in the gang box, as well as remove the unnecessary parts of the remote switch that make it hook into the standard 120v lines like a normal light switch.

I have two problems with this solution which is why I am still looking for a better solution:

1. It is battery powered so I will need to take it out and recharge it every ~4-6 months.
   
2. It seems to not register the 1st push most of the time, which is pretty annoying and has low WAF. I usually need to wait a second to see if the lights respond, or push once and push and hold which I have mapped to full brightness.
   This may be a problem with my remote, or a signal strength/connection issue since the remote is inside the metal gang box inside the wall.
   
   
   I am trying to control Hue lights (on/off) with a normal looking light switch, and am open to other ideas if people have them. I figure if I can fix the connection issue, I will live with them being battery powered.

This is my favorite solution so far. My only reservation is having a dependency on SmartThings to shut off the fan, versus the timer switch.


Would it be possible to use a Z-Wave Micro Switch and keep my physical timer switch?


My thought is that if everything is working (SmartThings), then the automation would start the fan and shut off the fan. But for any reason, if my automation/smartthing, isn't working, everything still acts normal via the physical timer switch.

What I’d do is:

Mount a [smartthings motion sensor](Samsung SmartThings Motion Sensor [GP-U999SJVLBAA] with Slim Design and Optional Automated Alerts - Zigbee – White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I4JQCb7N2BE5D) underneath and towards the middle of the changing table pointed straight down. The motion sensors work best when something “breaks” their beam, so having it mounted that way allows you to move your foot underneath it and turn the lights on by way of an automation.
If the led lights aren’t smart lights, then you would need a smart plug to use with them.

One problem I had with smart outlets is that one one of the plugs is controlled by the switch, the other is just on 100% of the time.

In my use case, paranoia over leaving the hair curler plugged in, that down fall was two much. Sure I could see the outlet was off but I had no idea if the device was plugged into the right outlet.

My solution was this little guy
Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fBzqybV7TXXRH

Fits behind the standard outlet and turns the entire thing into a switch.

I'm also thinking this might be a good thing to add to a couple more outlets for Christmas lights

Yes, thats possible.

Basically, you're setting up a rule in Smartthings under the "Smart Lights" smartapp that says, turn on <GE switch> when motion is detected with <motion sensor>.

Alternatively, I would recommend using Lutron motion sensor (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC). It's just cheaper and does the same thing.

While I do have plenty of GE zwave switches and Hue bulbs throughout my house, I have those Lutron motion switch in my garage, pantry, laundry room, bathrooms, etc.. I dont need those rooms to be smart--just need to turn on when motion is detected.

edit: missed the part that said the switch is inside the house. The first option is best for your use case.

>I don't want a motion switch as I actually want it to be smart

Get both. GE smart motion detector switch(also comes in a dimmer version)

The motion detector will be instant for the light switch it directly controls, but it's also a smart switch so you can control it through your system and use it to trigger other routines. Once you get SmartThings there's a device handler that allows a lot more customization and you can essentially treat the motion detector as a separate device from the switch. I have one in my entryway that controls a lot of my automation. I'll get more eventually, but they're not cheap and I wanted to put in smart switches in all my house first.

Added bonus: no dead batteries since it runs off mains.

I think that might be the same dry switch, but I used this one here. Pretty easy to setup and has been working for a couple of years now

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00913ATFI/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have it integrated with smartthings and Google home.

I use Visonic door/window sensors that also show temp/humidity. Currently $19.99 on Amazon, but I have seen these as low as $15.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDJ3KYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aEyVDb4J26GZT
Integrate this with the Virtual Thermostat Manager SmartApp and Device handler.
https://github.com/eliotstocker/SmartThings-VirtualThermostat-WithDTH
The Virtual Thermostat will get its temp reading from the Visonic sensor and turn off/on any smart plug, works great.

V2 Motion sensors work well for me as well, ended up getting rid of the hue sensors for these ones. Like the way you can set different colours for different times whereas unless im mistaken you cannot do this for the Hue sensors. Im sure as well I have seen the smartthings kit going for £94 in the amazon warehouse deals.

There you go.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B01GJZKRFM/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1550678936&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+smartthings+starter+kit

This probably isn't what you are looking for, but.....

You can use a Zoos wired dimmer as a "remote" with the Smart Lighting app. Basically, just install the switch in the wall and don't connect anything to the outgoing load. Then have your light "follow" it in Smart Lighting.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0GWI83/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You may want to look into this switch. Had motion sensor and buttons to toggle on and off.

Not 100% sure what you need, but it sounds like you want the motion sensor never to be disabled?

I'm not sure exactly how this switch works, but you could use webcore (add-on to smartthings) to make it do what you want. Aka turn the light off if the light is left on too long without motion.

Hopefully this helps!


GE, White & Light Almond, Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Motion Light Switch, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, SmartThings, Wink, Zwave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, 3-Way Compatible, 26931 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07226MG2T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I21YDb0HWHDQW

I imagine the only reason you could want to be dimming from an outlet is for a lamp. I want to believe you understand the dangers of dimming other appliances (accidentally) should they be plugged into your dimmed outlets. Because you understand the importance, I think you might find THIS product to be your best solution to your need to dim lamps.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0013V6S0Q

Use these, because you cant build dimmers into outlets. We're trying to tell you not to do that. But this product lets you put zwave dimmer at the outlet.

You might try a normal switch connected to an
Aeon Labs Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0gD-zbVX154GH

Turns your dumb switch smart :)

There's also a dimmer module:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PiD-zbWY6WYJM

If you are going to use a SmartThings Hub you could use a Z-Wave bulb like this:

SYLVANIA SMART+ A19 Full Color + Tunable White LED Bulb, 60W Equivalent, Works with Amazon Alexa and SmartThings, 73693 (Formerly LIGHTIFY) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197840KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TdSNzbFQ85TS5

But it would require you have the hub, and an Ethernet connection.

Something like this would work without a hub (and avoid wifi issues mentioned above):

LE Dimmable A19 E26 LED Light Bulb 6W RGB 16 Colors Remote Controller Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007V1VOI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NjSNzbZ8ZABDN

In that case only the Aotec buttons come to mind as a replacement to the smartthings button, I have the nanomote and I very rarely have missed presses, and only because I take it with me.

If it is permanently fixed and in range it shouldn't have issues, other than not looking like a gang switch

I guess the Aeotec wallmote sort of looks like a switch, if you squint a little.

Aeotec WallMote Quad, Z-Wave Plus Wireless Wall Switch, 4 Button, 16 Scene Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l8DPDbCW26G19

Related items to the rescue:

Looks like a switch, only one button, cheaper.
Insteon 2342-242 Mini Remote Switch, On/Off (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5RML94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w9DPDb5GHG660

If the use case is to be able to buy yourself in, geofence is not accurate enough to trigger that.

Sounds like you'll need to wire something into the door buzzer in your apartment. Like this thing.

Enerwave ZWN-RSM1-PLUS Z-Wave Relay, Z-Wave Plus Micro Switch, Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights and Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ugPQCbSETGY9R

How exactly? Could not say.... It'll depend on the way the buzzer works.

Keep in mind that this will mean if your internet or power goes down, you are stuck outside.

Enerwave makes and handy dual relay microcontroller. Its about the size of a quarter and has relays to control both the fan and the light. Plenty of room in the canopy. You don't get dimming or fan speed control, but it works to control the fan and light indepently.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=twister_B01CPO2D3K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It does need a device type handler that's available from the smartthings community in order to utilize both relays.

The remotes are exactly like they are pictured. The Harmony One is an older remote that I don't really use anymore. The other 4 are exactly what you see in the screenshot, one hub and one remote for each.

You can in fact pick up a hub without a remote.

You can either go Wi-FI + regular power or you could try using a pair of powerline kits that have PoE built in. They create a network through your electrical lines. If you don't have too much electrical interference through the breakers you could get at least 35-50 Mbps out of them;

​

Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Powerline-Supports-TPL-331EP-TPL-331EP2K/dp/B0796ZJPJ7

I hear you. I'm finding that smart outlets may not be the answer to most of what I want to do. I'm thinking I'm going be tucking a few of these in some boxes.

They go on sale typically around black Friday or whatever holiday season you might have. Typically down to $50US or so. The one you want is this one: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Control-Entertainment-Devices/dp/B00N3RFC4Q. Comes with the hub and a remote.

do they work with their own stuff, or is it home/ smarthings compatible?

these look like they are hot only switches.. I'm more looking for a faux switch basically something that tells the hub. hey turn that light on/off

edit2:
Looking for something like this but a simple switch/dimmer for 1 scene

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW130-WallMote/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506113001&sr=8-1&keywords=wallmote

Oh I didn't think of putting it in the oven!

This one would easily pick up 10-20 degree temp change mounted under a cabinet nearby, for instance.

Not sure if they'll do exactly what you want
Sylvania Smart Home 73743... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You'll want just a scene controller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GLtSAb8MTNX3E

Otherwise you'll be controlling the fan which might burn the motor.

I think you would have to use a dry contact switch. Like this


But I’m not 100%

He means a non-SmartThings one, like this one

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498060276&sr=8-3&keywords=motion+sensor+switch

An alternative would be to just bypass the switch and install this behind the cowling of the fan. No fan speed/dimmer control tho.

"Zigbee RGBW Bulb" is the DTH I'm using. Local execution shown as well.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197840KQ/

​

These are the bulbs I have.

I've been using these https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/ref=pd_lpo_60_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HDB1DN7CA5ADZT1VSKQH They aren't as sexy looking at the Lutron switches you have in your post, but these have a battery so don't require any sort of wiring and works fine with the Smartthings hub.

Amazon has available here

I use the Sylvania Zigbee switch, but it doesn't fit in a deco, but rather on top of.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions I ended up getting this and its currently installed and reading 1F. I set up a piston in webcore to send me a notification if the temp gets above freezing but of course didn't think to check it till after it was installed in the freezer.

If it just dies suddenly I'll be sure to let everyone know so they can avoid it in the future.

You could put a hidden micro-switch inside the back of the receptacle and keep the non-smart outlet downstream. Here is an example of one: https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8

Then all you need is the SmartThings hub. It’s about $65.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=smartthings+hub&qid=1566963025&s=gateway&sprefix=smartthings&sr=8-3

Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW130-A WallMote Quad
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xLhIAb01C1JFD


ZRC-90US, BW8510US, by Remotec, Cert ID: ZC10-15100007
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016YTTIVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MMhIAbWNA3TM2

This is the one I am about to order. Check out the reviews. Lots of pictures from people who have hooked it up.

Edit: Looks like it's out of stock and no idea when it's coming back. :(
But at least it looks like the one wgbm linked hooks up about the same way.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fBzqybV7TXXRH

This will make a standard plug z wave. You can't control each plug individually but should do the trick.

I was having the same issue. My zWave devices were all battery powered, same with the Zigbee, so they wouldn't work as repeaters. I purchased a couple zWave repeaters and a couple of the ST Zigbee plugs, and put them in my weak areas, rebuilt the networks and it solved my issues.

After getting frustrated with the disconnects when using the ST sensors, I tried the Visonic MCT-340 E Wireless Door Window Temperature Sensor 2.4ghz ZigBee, which still disconnects but less often, so far, than the ST sensors, at half the price.

I use the SmartThings branded one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8ZHBLS) with no issues at all. You can't get much more "native" than that! It can also operate and be a part of local automations.