Best products from r/Sneks
We found 41 comments on r/Sneks discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 41 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. The Amphibians and Reptiles of Costa Rica: A Herpetofauna between Two Continents, between Two Seas
- ⚡ Maintains Fluid Balance - Potassium can be found in many foods, but it is not always readily available to the body. Potassium Chloride also plays an important role in electrolyte balance. Potassium Chloride, one of potassium supplements, helps to keep the body's fluid levels in balance, which is essential for optimal health and performance.* This perfect for athletes or anyone who wants to stay hydrated. It's also a great source of energy and for pH balance!
- 🧠 Supports Nerve Health - Potassium is a key mineral for nerve health.* Potassium Chloride, a potassium supplement, also plays an important role in the transmission of messages between nerves and muscles, including the heart. This potassium chloride supplement, as potassium powder, an important nutrient for athletes and people who lead active lifestyles, as well as for those who want to maintain healthy nerve function.*
- 💪 Supports Muscle Contraction - Muscles need potassium to function properly, and potassium chloride is a great source of this essential mineral. By supplementing with potassium citrate, you can help keep your muscles contracted and performing at their best.* If you're looking for a way to boost your performance*, potassium chloride, also known as potassium salt, may be the perfect supplement for you.
- ✔️ Get the Potassium You Need - Potassium is an important mineral that our bodies need for a variety of reasons. This potassium supplement powder or potassium chloride supplement, only available potassium powder form, from BulkSupplements is a great way to get the potassium you need without any fillers or additives.
- ⭐ High Quality - All products by BulkSupplements are manufactured according to cGMP Standards to ensure the highest quality for manufacturing, packaging, labeling, and holding operations. We’ve made a significant investment in our in-house lab so we can test our products at multiple stages during production. We third party test products, procedures and equipment when required to ensure compliance, standards and consistency.
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2. Peterson Field Guide to Reptiles and Amphibians of Eastern and Central North America, Fourth Edition (Peterson Field Guides)
- Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
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3. Peterson Field Guide to Western Reptiles & Amphibians, Fourth Edition (Peterson Field Guides)
8. Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 774 (Not for Human) Temperature Gun Non-Contact Digital Laser Thermometer-58℉ to 716℉ (-50 to 380℃), Standard Size, Yellow & Black
- NOT FOR HUMAN: Temperature readings from these devices are inanimate objects. The measured temperature for humans or animals will be inaccurate
- BETTER ACCURACY: 12:1 D:S, meaning it can accurately measure targets at greater distances compared to most others; For best accuracy, the distance between the thermometer and object of measurement should approximately be 14.17 inches (36 cm)
- TARGET QUICKER: Measure surface temperature ranging from -58℉ to 716℉(-50℃ to 380℃), with 2 units ℉/℃ to choose; Response time: ≤500Ms; A built-in laser gives you the precision to hone in on the exact space you want to measure
- VERSATILE DESIGN: Infrared technology makes it to measure the surface temperature of various objects especially temperatures above boiling points and below freezing points; Use it for cooking, ovens; AC, refrigerators; or soapmaking cats toy etc
- Note: This color model don't contain emissivity adjustment feature and max temperature feature
- ADDED FUNCTIONS: The LCD screen is backlit, also has an auto-off function to extend the battery life, and features a low battery indicator so you never accidentally run out of juice (battery included)
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9. Jump Start JumpStart MTPRTC Digital Controller Germination Heat Mat Thermostat
- The only safety ETL certified thermostat on the market
- Provides constant optimal temperatures for germination/rooting
- Ideal in homebrewing for maintaining desired fermentation temperature, and perfect for temperature control in reptile terrariums and small pet enclosures.
- LED heating indicator light and Digital temperature control
- Controllable range of 68°F - 108°F, Choice of Celsius or Fahrenheit readout (press Up or Down button to change)
- 1 Year Warranty
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10. Pangea Reptile Hide Box (C- Medium)
Provides security for your snake or reptileSmooth plastic inside and ouSingle plastic reptile hide10"x7"x2.25"
11. BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Breeding Incubation Greenhouse, 40-108°F, 8.3A 1000W ETL Listed
- Multifunction: can be used as a table lamp in your room, garages or art studios, a work light in photography and workshops, and even a growth light for indoor plants
- Material: 8.5inch aluminum reflector, 150W max phenolic plastics lamp holder (E26). Type A lamp. (Note: The temperature of the lamp holder will rise after use, do not touch it with your hands)
- Function: the clip is firm and well fixed, 360° adjustment, the direction of the light can be pointed to where you need.
- Specifications: 8.5X4.25X10 inch, rated for up to a 150-Watt bulb.
- Package include: 1-pack 150W 8.5inch aluminum reflector clamp on light fixture (No Bulb Included)
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12. Reptile Heat Lamp Bulb -60W Ceramic Heat Emitter No Harm No Light Infrared Heater Lamp for Chicken Coop Lizard Aquarium Snake Outside Dogs Brooder 110V,White
- ✔ Perfect 24 Hours Heat Sources – Ceramic heat emitter is a radiant heat source which creates a natural sunlike heat with a uniform pattern, last up to 10000 hours.
- ✔ 100% Heat Efficiency – Reptile heat lamp the long wave infrared heat produced by this emitter will warm reptiles very efficiently. It also increases the ambient air temperature in the terrarium.
- ✔ No Light Emitted – Reptile heat bulb does not disturb normal sleeping habits of reptiles, chickens coops and outside pets. Available for daily use.
- ✔ Suitable for High Humid Environments – Ceramic heat lamp was made of high-purity pottery clay which ensures its anti-crack and working in high humidity terrariums.
- ✔ Heat Lamp for Reptiles Voltage: AC 110-120V; Power: 60W; Material: Ceramic, Metal; To avoid scald, please wait at least 1 hour to cool down before touch it.
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13. AcuRite 00891A3 Indoor/Outdoor Digital Thermometer with Humidity
- Displays indoor and outdoor temperature, indoor humidity
- Integrated 10-foot weather-resistant temperature wire and probe
- Stands on desktop, shelf, mantel or mounts to wall; momentary backlight for easy reading at night
- Records minimum and maximum humidity and temperature levels for each day
- NOTE: May not function properly with certain types of Duracell batteries
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14. Inkbird ITC308 Freezer Thermostat Heating Cooling Plug Temperature Controller Outlet 110V 1200W Digital Temp Control for Greenhouse Heater Cooler Reptile Brewing Fermentation Kegerator Probe
- Simple to use: plug it in, set the temp ranges, place the probe, plug in the heater/cooler into the marked outlet.
- Be able to connect with refrigeration and heating equipment at the same time.
- Easily calibrated.
- Can display in Centigrade or Fahrenheit.
- Whether you need temperature control for fermentation, greenhouse, kombucha control or to set up your temperature project system, the ITC-308 temperature controller is a great choice.
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15. Leather Gardening Gloves by Fir Tree. Premium Goatskin Gloves With Cowhide Suede Gauntlet Sleeves. Perfect Rose Garden Gloves. Men's and Women's Sizes. M-8 (See Size Chart Photo)
If you love your roses but hate being scratched by thorns, these garden gloves are for you. Genuine goatskin leather provides the ultimate protection possible from sharp thorns and pickers without sacrificing dexterity.A durable cowhide sleeve will keep our arm covered to your elbow. And because the...
16. Inkbird Digital Temperature Probe Controller Thermostat Timer AC 110V 1200W Only Heating Plug Time Switch Reptile Breeding Heater Planting Greenhouse No Cooling Control
- NO COOLING CONTROL.There is only heating relay. It can be widely use in over-heat protection and automatic temperature control system of all sorts of electrical equipment for aquarium, pets breeding, hatching, fungus fermenting, and seed germination accelerating, etc. Only one relay and it extends two plugs which both are heating plugs, NO cooling plug.
- It can be set to two different temperatures with its function of dual time cycle setting during 24 hours according to the day and night, which can more suitable for the physiological needs of animals and plants.
- This plug and play product is designed with dual LCD display, and offers the optional display of Centigrade or Fahrenheit, which makes it more humanized temperature control. With large power output 1,200W, it's suitable for most applications.
- The temperature can be controlled more accurately with its function of temperature calibration and temperature hysteresis.
- There is only heating relay. It can be widely use in over-heat protection and automatic temperature control system of all sorts of electrical equipment for aquarium, pets breeding, hatching, fungus fermenting, and seed germination accelerating, etc.
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17. Zilla Reptile Habitat Décor Hideouts Stump Den, Medium
One accessory for basking, climbing and burrowingRealistic, rustic design is a great compliment to terrestrial or aquatic environmentHand-crafted, natural appearanceNon-porous exterior resists bacterial growthEasy to clean with warm, soapy water and rinse
19. Rainbow Boa. Rainbow Boas as Pets. Rainbow boa, biology, behavior, husbandry, daily care, enclosures, costs, diet, interaction and health.
20. iPower GLHTMTCONTROL 40-108 Degrees Fahrenheit Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Rooting Germination Reptiles, Fermentation and Brewing, Black
- Professional reliability: digital temperature controller for heat mat in colder or warmer environments; Package include: 1 pack iPower digital heat mat thermostat controller
- Temperature range: digital thermostat provides temperature control between 40°F - 108°F (5-42°C); Temperature Display Range: 32 -140°F. Choice of Celsius or Fahrenheit readou
- Technical specfications: 120 Volts / 8.3 Max Amps /60 HZ / 1000 Watts; Easy plug-in operation with LED illuminated indicator lights & three-prong grounded plug
- Variety of uses: Heat mat thermostat provides constant customized temp for Seed Germination, Rooting, Reptiles, Homebrewing and Fermentation, keeping your various environments in their ideal temperature range
- Please note the motor on the fan is not enclosed and is not to be used in high humidity environments
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So getting started with a snake can be expensive but it doesn't have to break the bank. There are a number of ways that you can actually save money and still provide a more than adequate enclosure.
Let's assume you are getting a baby ball python.
Depending on morph the price ranges greatly. A normal will cost you around $40 from a reptile store or expo. Morphs can easily get in the hundreds. DO NOT buy from chain pet stores (i.e. Petsmart, Petco.) Their animals are often sick/unhealthy. Buy from a reputable breeder/reptile store.
When picking out a snake, look for signs of disease/injury/mites. Common things are Respiratory infections, mites, thermal burns, mouth rot and scale rot. Check the belly for discoloration/signs of injury. Check around the mouth for any bubbling and see if you can get the breeder/store worked to get it to open its mouth. A healthy mouth will be nice and pink. Check around the mouth/eyes and under the chin for mites. These will look like small black specs that are often lodged under/between scales.
Enclosure: Appropriate size to start out with would be a 20gal long. Brand new this can cost around $70 (price of All Living Things Reptile Terrarium) or more depending on brand. However, you can look on resale websites such as LetGo and buy one secondhand. If you don't mind not having a great view of your friend, you can also go with an appropriately sized storage bin. These will be cheaper than glass terrariums and can be just as good of a home if you properly outfit it. Will need to size up when your snake gets bigger.
You will need 2 hides. If you don't mind about asthetics, I suggest something like this https://www.amazon.com/Pangea-Reptile-Hide-Box-Medium/dp/B00UCDIBJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=reptile+hide&qid=1566576464&s=gateway&sr=8-4. Not very expensive, easy to clean. $10-15 each. These will need to be sized up as your snake grows. A proper hide should be enclosed on all but one side and be a snug fit for your snake.
Water bowl: I suggest a ceramic water bowl or similarly heavy/deep water bowl. You can get these on Amazon for ~$10. Will need to get bigger when your snake does.
Heat source: Either a Under Tank Heater or a Ceramic heat emitter are popular/good choices. Lamp+heat emitter around ~$20 but can be transferred to bigger cage when adult. UTH will be around $15 for first enclosure, will need a new one when you size up.
Thermostat: You need a thermostat that will plug into heat source to regulate temperatures. Most on Amazon are in the $15-20 range
Thermometer/Humidity gauge: Need to actively see temperature and humidity in enclosure. Amazon has decent ones that are not too expensive. Stay away from analog ones that stick to side of enclosure as these are inaccurate and the adhesive can get stuck on snake. Go with digital ones.
Digital temperature gun: Monitor spot temperatures. ~$15 or so depending on which you get.
Scale for weighing: while this is recommended it is not necessary. Price varies around $15-20
Bedding: Either cypress mulch or coconut fiber are recommended bedding. Depending on size of bag this will cost around $10-20 on average. Bedding needs to be replaced about every 2 months so this will be recurring but a general bag will get you around 2 enclosures of bedding. Stay away from Aspen for Ball Pythons
Food: Depending on size but around $1-3 dollars per feeding as the snake grows. Snake will eat once a week as a baby/juvenile, once every 2-3 weeks as an adult. Frozen/thawed is best route to go since you can easily buy in bulk and store (helps keep cost down a bit) and it is a much safer way to feed since feeding live risks injury to your snake.
Accessories: A proper enclosure needs to have clutter (i.e. plants for cover, things to climb on). You want a stimulating environment for your snake that also makes it feel safe. The more clutter the better. Silk plants work best as they can be easily cleaned, last forever. I highly recommend going to craft stores like Michael's. They have a bunch of stuff that goes great in set ups and are pretty damn cheap, especially if they have a clearance section. Decorating a cage well can be an inexpensive process. Things like appropriately sized PVC pipes work great. Amazon also has good choices. I decorated my California Kingsnakes enclosure for around $20 by shopping in the right places. Resell websites will often have people selling cage accessories for cheap as well. Something to climb on is a must. People don't associate BPs with climbing but if provided the opportunity, they will climb.
Vet visits: The hope is that you'll never have to take your snake to the vet but sometimes it can't be avoided. You have to find a vet that specializes in exotic animals and a visit can easily put you back a few hundred dollars. Its general advise that if you can't afford a vet visit, you should hold off on getting a snake.
For more information I highly recommend you going over to r/ballpython
Sounds like you were getting outdated or flat-out incorrect information and those 'experienced snake owners' are likewise misinformed. There are very few snakes that legitimately have evolved to thrive on sand-based substrate (irony being the Sand Boa is not one of them; they live in sandy soil which is very different composition than straight sand). The Ball Python is native to the svannah/jungles of Sub-Saharan Africa. Its dirt, soil, and burrows. Not a majority or even significant amount of sand.
Additionally, if I extrapolate correctly from this singular picture, your BP is also in a glass enclosure and has a log-style hide. The former makes keeping humidity in the 55~80% range a difficult exercise, and the latter, is a stressor as BPs do best with a hide that has a single-entrance or is cave-like; the more points of contact, the better, and a single entrance means they can feel safer.
I'm going to steal _ataraxia's ball python dump and toss it below:
i'm going to dump a bunch of links to get you on the right track. the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
There are a number of resources for snake ID and this list is nowhere near comprehensive.
Globally, comprehensive species lists are available via Reptile Database Advanced Search. Reptile Database is mostly correct and up to date in terms of taxonomy. Another worldwide resource is Snakes of the World which, in addition to being comprehensive for extant snakes, also provides a wealth of information on fossil taxa.
Regional guides are useful. If you're in North America, the Eastern Peterson Guide and Western Peterson Guide are great tools, as is Snakes of the United States and Canada. While plagiarized and problematic, the book Snakes of Mexico is the best easily accessible information for the region. For Central America, the Kohler book as well as Savage's Costa Rica book are excellent resources. South America is tough but has a diagnostic catalog. Australia has Cogger as a herp bible. SE Asia has two guides one in German and one comprehensive. For Europe, you simply can't get better than the three volumes of Handbuch der Reptilien und Amphibien Europas. Africa is also difficult - no comprehensive guide exists but there are a few good regional guides like Reptiles of East Africa and Guide to the Reptiles of Southern Africa. Amphibians and Reptiles of Madagascar is a good source for that distinct region. For the Indian subcontinent, use Snakes of India
Remember, species names are hypotheses that are tested and revised - old books become dated by the nature of science itself. One of your best resources is going to be following /r/whatsthissnake, or (for North America) with the SSAR Standard Names List for the most recent accepted taxonomic changes.
Here is an example of a small personal herpetology library.
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Like many other animals with mouths and teeth, non-venomous snakes can use them to bite in self defense. These animals are referred to as 'not medically significant' or traditionally, 'harmless'. Bites from these snakes benefit from being washed and kept clean like any other skin damage, but aren't often cause for anything other than basic first aid treatment. Some snakes use venom from front or rear fangs as part of prey capture and defense. This venom is not always produced or administered by the snake in ways dangerous to human health, so many species are venomous in that they produce venom, but considered harmless to humans in most cases because the venom is of low potency, and/or otherwise administered through grooved rear teeth or simply oozed from ducts at the rear of the mouth. Species like Ringneck Snakes Diadophis are a good example of mildly venomous rear fanged dipsadine snakes that are traditionally considered harmless or not medically significant. Similarly, but without specialized rear fangs, gartersnakes Thamnophis ooze low pressure venom from the rear of their mouth that helps in prey handling, and are also considered harmless. Even large species such as Malayopython reticulatus rarely obtain a size large enough to endanger humans so are usually categorized as harmless.
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I am a bot created for /r/whatsthissnake, /r/snakes and /r/herpetology to help with snake identification and natural history education. You can find more information, including a comprehensive list of commands, here and report problems here.
I like the soft, leather, elbow-length gardening gloves like these. But they have to be smooth leather, otherwise fibers may get caught in a snek's curved teeth.
It's also pretty useful to keep some vodka or other hard spirit near by if your snek is particularly bitey and likes to latch and refuses to let go. Waving that in front of a little guy's snoot (or for big guys, a drop or two on the snoot by Q-tip) can save his teeth from breakage and your body part from laceration.
Grumpy, bitey sneks are tough to recondition, but patience and gentle exposure to handling has been successful for me in the past.
Good looking out! Glad it's suction and not the sticky kind lol. And yeah it's supposed to be stuck to the bottom on the outside. They can get too hot and burn your snake (which can be fatal) so you'll really want to get a thermostat. I have this one and it works well. You'll stick the metal probe between the bottom of the tank and the heat mat. Keep in mind snakes are cold blooded and you're not...even if it doesn't feel too warm to you, it could be for a snake.
What kind of snake do you have? You might need to modify your setup to increase humidity depending on what species he/she is :)
Hi! A little late to the party, but something else to keep in mind that I did not see mentioned is that you will definitely want a thermostat (not just a thermometer) to regulate the heat from your heat pad and/or Ceramic Heating Element. You will probably want one for each heat element, although CHEs can be controlled with dimmer switches as well I believe.
A thermostat lets you regulate the output of a heat pad or CHE. This is important because without regulation, it is possible for either of them to overheat beyond typical heating abilities. This could lead to extreme temperatures in your tank that could burn the snake or even cause neurological damage if it's hot enough.
I'm taking my list of suggestions from other users who post around snek subreddits as I am not yet a snek owner myself :(.
Cheap options are Jump Start thermostats, although they do not have safety features that will shut down the heating element if the thermostat fails. Another option that's in the same price range but a bit safer is an Inkbird thermostat. If you wanna splurge and get a very high quality thermostat for your little buddy, you can go for a Spyder Robotics thermostat.
Also, not necessarily required but useful and fun: an Infrared Thermometer
This. He loves it; spends like 70% of his time either curled up inside it, wrapped around it, or poking his head out of one of the holes :)
Great advice, thanks! Here's a book suggestion for you, if you haven't read it yet.
Do you have any sources of it not being ideal for BRB's? All the caresheets and books I've read all have cyphress mulch as a recommended substrate. Not arguing just wanting to learn and improve my care taking.
Sources:1,2,3,4,5
Thermostat for the UTH (under tank heater)! That's a BIG MUST for a UTH. Temps that are too high can cause burns and neurological issues (aka brain damage). You can get one relatively cheap. The one I use is here iPower Digital Heat Mat Thermostat
Good luck, you choose the right pet!🐍 Hisss!
We use this one for the heat pad, you set it at the temp you want and it turns the heating pad on and off depending on if it gets too cool or too hot.
And then we use this one just to monitor visually the temp and humidity of the environment. So far we’ve had no issues and they’re both fairly inexpensive.
Good luck with everything!
Only way to know is to measure.
Get a cheap IR thermometer and observe the temperatures on the hot and cool sides to make sure they're in appropriate ranges.
This kinda behavior might be a bit unusual but every snek is different. I would check to make sure your ambient temps are around 80F and you have a hot spot using pad under the environment which heats to around 90F.
My ball python did a lot of searching before we got the temps right. I use 2 jump start thermostats now and she just chills 99.9% of the time.
Get this ... its $15 and so worth it for any reptile (also kinda handy in the kitchen if you cook)
Will one of these work as a thermostat for a CHE? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xqFXDb0BTJFVP if I put the probe somewhere near the top?