(Part 2) Best products from r/StonerEngineering

TUTORIAL-ISH THING:

MATERIALS:

• diamond tipped drill bit (mine's 10mm but use whatever you prefer)
  
• Brass tubing (One tube the width of the glass drill bit you have, the other is the width of the bowl you're putting in it)
  
• drill
  
• hacksaw (or some other tool to cut metal tubes and cut slits in them)
  
• brass corner (no specific corner piece, it just needs to fit the two different sized tubes you have. Doesn't need to be perfect, since you'll be using silicone to hold them together, but the closer fit, the better)
  
• silicone (you can get it here, but they sell it at pretty much any hardware store, and you'll be there anyway for the tubing and corner piece)
  
• Glass jars with lids
  
  About the glass jars: I got mine at my local Hobby Lobby. They have an isle with all sorts of mason jars, bottles, and other glass jars. I pretty much just looked around there until I found ones that I thought would work well. The bottom two chambers are the same jar, and they're fairly large. They both have plastic lids that screw on. These lids are the reason that the bong can come apart. They don't necessarily have to be plastic, but it works out nicely. The reason I didn't use a third of the same one for the top chamber is because it would be too large for my mouth to fit when inhaling, so I found a smaller one that fit comfortably like an actual bong. the smallest one inside the middle chamber for the percolator is partly cylindrical shaped but goes in then flares out at the end. you don't have to use this type, in fact I almost bought the light bulb-shaped jar they have there but didn't because it didn't fit inside the larger middle chamber jar. Basically, when looking for the percolator jar, it needs to fit inside the larger middle chamber jar with plenty of room around it, it can't be too skinny because there needs to be a tube going up the center and there needs to be room for airflow there too, and finally it needs to have some room on the top AFTER you put the lid on the big jar. The reason for this is that in the lid of the large jar, you'll be drilling a hole in the middle that leads to the top chamber, so there must be room for airflow. for example, the light bulb-shaped jar when put inside the large jar with the lid on, it touched the lid, meaning that there wouldn't be airflow.
  
  Okay, so that's enough about the jars. Any more questions, just comment.
  
  PROCEDURE:
  
  
• Get prepped for drilling. prep your sink, have a towel on the bottom, get the water flowing, put your drill bit in your drill, and take any safety precautions you see fit.
  
• BOTTOM CHAMBER: drill a hole in the side in the bottom 1/3 of the jar. basically, when choosing where to put the hole, think about how high the water will need to be, and how high from the bottom of the inside of the jar you want your down stem to be. my down stem is about 1cm from touching the bottom of the jar, so the hole is at that height from the inside. from the outside, it's about 1.5cm or so (because of the thickness of the glass) Set the lid for this jar to the side for later.
  
• MIDDLE CHAMBER: Drill a hole in the center of the bottom of this jar. This hole will lead into the brass tube inside the percolator. Set the lid for this jar aside for later
  
• TOP CHAMBER: drill a hole in the center of the bottom of this jar. this hole will be where the smoke comes from the middle chamber. if this jar came with a lid, you don't necessarily need it unless you want to be able to put it on when not using the bong to kind of close it up.
  
• PERCOLATOR JAR: Assuming it has enough room everywhere inside the larger jar, you can start drilling holes in it. Since this will be placed upside down over the brass tube in the middle chamber, you need to have holes near the open end. I drilled four holes about 1 cm from the open end of the jar equally around it. You want the holes to be close to the open end, meaning that when flipped over, and silicone-d into place, the holes will be near the bottom of the middle chamber, which is what you need. The water level in the middle chamber will need to be above the holes in the percolator jar, but below the end of the brass tube that will be running up the center of the percolator jar. So yeah, drill a few holes around the open end of the jar, you don't need more than 4 holes, but you should put more than 1. I put 4 holes. If you have a jar that is the same shape as mine, you can see that there was a nice little dip in the jar that gave me a good place to drill them. if this jar came with a lid, you can throw it away. any more questions, just ask me.
  
• BOTTOM CHAMBER LID: you need to drill a hole in the center of this lid that will lead to the middle chamber's hole in the center of the bottom. The reason I had you wait until all the glass holes were drilled is because, if you're like me, you didn't get it dead center. So in order to make sure they line up, tape the lid of the bottom chamber to the bottom of the middle chamber and line up the edges so that it looks nice and isn't lop-sided. Take your drill, line it up on the lid so that it will drill in the same place as the hole, and make your hole. now that it's done, when you silicone the lid to the bottom the jar, it will line up right.
  
• MIDDLE CHAMBER LID: same as the bottom chamber lid, but line it up with the hole in the center of the bottom of the top chamber jar.
  
• YAY! now all the holes are drilled. But you're not done yet! not even close!
  
• TOP CHAMBER PART 2: easy. put a ring of silicone around the hole in the bottom of the top chamber jar on the outside, and also a ring around the edge of the bottom of the jar on the outside. stick it onto the lid of the middle chamber jar making sure the holes line up exactly. check to make sure the silicone made a nice seal around both the outer edge and also the hole in the middle. you don't want any smoke getting away! clean up any silicone that gushes out too much and make sure the hole is cleared out. set aside to dry for several hours
  
• DOWN STEM: okay, so this part has a lot to do with preference. take the tube that is going to fit the bowl you have. decide how far up from the corner piece you want it go. keep in mind that when you put water into the bottom chamber, it will fill up this tube to the same height as it is in the jar, so keep it high enough above the desired water level. you don't want your weed getting wet. cut the tube at the desired length, and silicone it onto the corresponding opening of the corner piece. as for the hole-size tube that goes into the bottom chamber, decide how long you want it to be (I suggest making it go almost the diameter of the bottom chamber), and cut it at that length. then, take your hacksaw or whatever and cut slits into the length of the tube. I put 5 slits in mine equally spaced along the length of it that cut about half way into the width of the tube. also, I cut 4 little slits into the end of the tube and use pliers to make them flare out, but this is not necessary.
  
• BOTTOM CHAMBER PART 2: now that your down stem is almost done, it's time to put it in place. put your diffused down stem into the jar and make it stick out the hole you drilled in it. while it's sticking out of the jar, silicone it into the corner piece so that the slits in the stem are facing down, and the bowl-sized tube is pointing up. then silicone the whole thing to the side of the jar. my corner piece has a nut on it, so that gave me a nice surface to silicone to the side. set everything aside to dry for a few hours.
  
• PERCOLATOR PIPE: take the rest of your hole-sized tube and cut it. The length of this tube needs to run from the bottom of the middle chamber jar's hole to ALMOST the "top" of the percolator jar. the best way to get the correct length is to hold the middle chamber jar in one hand, then place the percolator jar inside it upside down as it will be later on. then take the tube you have in the other hand and slide it inside the hole of the middle chamber jar ;) make sure it goes up far enough above the holes you drilled in the percolator, but not touching the closed end of it. mine's about 1cm from the closed end. mark on the tube where this point is and cut it at that point.
  
• MIDDLE CHAMBER PART 2: take the bottom chamber lid and silicone it to the bottom of the middle chamber with the same process as you did for the top chamber jar and middle chamber lid. take the tube you just cut, and silicone it to the hole in the bottom of the middle chamber. make sure silicone doesn't ooze out and cover the hole. you need good airflow through the hole in the lid, through the hole in the jar, then through this tube. set aside to dry for a little while, so that nothing is going to move around in the next part.
  
• PERCOLATOR JAR PART 2: take your percolator jar and put a ring of silicone around the edge of the open end. flip it over, and stick it in the center inside the middle chamber jar and around the tube that is sticking out from it. If you did everything well, this jar should be centered inside the larger one, and the tube should also be centered inside the percolator. if the tube touches the closed end of the percolator, you'll have to rip it out and shorten it and redo it. set all the chambers aside to dry over night.
  
  Holy shit that took a long time, but you're done! screw all the parts together, fill with water and weed and enjoy!
  
  again, if you have questions, just comment and ask me.
  
  damn, 9632/10000 characters...

Original post is here with discussion and calculations. Excerpt from there:

As for the description, let's begin from the bottom:
As you can see here the lower part of the barrel is filled with 15-20l of nutrient solution. The solution is oxygenated by the aquarium air pump, then the solution is top-fed to the plant 24/7 the first couple of weeks (to promote faster growth).
A ball valve allows for easy filling and draining.

After that a disk out of thick plastic makes the floor which the mesh pot sits in. On that level there's also the air intake which at the moment creates positive pressure, but once I flower in there it will be fixed to the air outlet to create negative pressure. That air will then be pushed through activated carbon.

The pot is nothing special, I even made it myself out of a regular pot and a dremel. It's filled with small-sized hydroton balls.
The bottom, walls, and lid are all painted with a 50/50 mixture out of flat PU-white (sticks to plastic) and BaSO4 (Barium sulfate). This pushes reflection throughout the whole spectrum into the high 90 per cents. Thanks /u/superangryguy for finding that study.

On two levels on the wall I can fix self-made trellis rings for ScrOGing. There's a large door on one side to get to the plants easier for training etc. On the edges it's insulated to be light- and air-proof with foam tape. The tape will be fixed to the door with neodymium magnets which will also improve the insulation.

In/on the lid there's the heat sink with the two COB-LEDs mounted with screws. Thermal grease was added to improve thermal conduction (duh.. :D). The chinese LEDs are definitely not driven at 100W (like you could do with Crees or Vero 29s) but kept at about 50-70W. That also makes thermal management easier.

As for the general supply of energy: the 360W driver brings the voltage down from 230/120V down to 30V. From there two small buck converter bring it further down to 5V (microcontroller) and 12V (fans and maybe later LED strip). For the LEDs there's the 150W boost converter to bring the voltage up again to in between 30 and 36V, thus controlling the output power (visible on the amp- and volt-meter).

The chip controls the on-off-times of the LEDs (18/6 and 12/12), regulates the cooling of heatsink and air inside the barrel, and it can also output the sensor values of sink and air temperature as well as humidity. The lights can also be switched on and off manually and of course the user switches from veg to flower.

I think that's it for the concept so far. If something isn't understandable or I left something out, just ask :)


Here are the Parts:

part | price
-------|-----------
barrel with lid - 120l | $20
100W LEDs - 3500K and 5000K | $2 each
360W driver - 24V 10A | $25
150W boost converter | $3
Heat sink | $18
Volt + amp meter | $2
Thermal grease | $1
Aquarium air pump with air hose and air stone | $10
Water pump | $5
2x Power supply for microcontroller and fans | $1 each
ATmega 328P | $2
3x 12V fans | $2 each
Electronics (cables, transistors, resistors, LEDs etc) | $5
Connectors | $3
Hygrometer | $2
Mesh pots + hydroton | $5
Ball valve| $2
(coming soon) pH and EC monitor | $36

and here's the code on GitHub: https://github.com/linkcharger/barrel-control

At the moment I'm just growing some lemon balm in there, as a kind of test run before I move to the UK, but I'm very excited to see how it works out with trees.. how the plant will behave, training, vigor etc.

Already I can see the immense power of hydroponics: I dug the small lemon balm plants out of soil 4 days ago with small-ish roots and only 3 days later I could already see the beautiful, white new roots flowing out of the pot. Hydro is amazing!

(on the other hand I also had to fight with green goey stuff because a lot of light was getting into the reservoir. Now it's sealed though :) )

It's all a big fun learning process though and I'm sure my little barrel will bring me immense joy in the future.

Happy growing everyone! ;-)

I'm on my way to a very standard, but large, mason jar bubbler.

The Vision:

An attractive, safe, economical, easily cleaned homemade bubbler constructed from a handled mason jar. A piece that my friends might look at and say, "Neat!," and not, "What is that? Is that safe to smoke out of?" Maybe I'll even decorate the outside with some color...

Materials so far:

• 32oz Ashland Mason Jar with handle and lid
  
  
• 14mm Scientific Glass Downstem 6 inches
  
  
• Rubber grommets for attaching and sealing the downstem to the lid
  
  
• Old bowl (just a regular old 14mm male bowl)
  
  Hang-ups/Questions:
  
  
• I am stumped on the mouthpiece. I want something more attractive/finished-looking than a janky piece of tubing flopping about on top. I'm considering ordering some pipe stems as they're sure to be safe to pass smoke through, but then the question is how to attach and seal them to the lid. Also, will air flow through one of these narrow looking stems be sufficient to clear a piece just smaller than your standard Nalgene bottle? If anyone has suggestions for a mouthpiece other than tubing or wants to convince me that the pipe stem is a go, I'm all ears.
  
  
• Drilling. What's the best way to drill a hole through mason jar lids?
  
  
• Adhesives. What glue could I use to safely secure the grommet that surrounds the downstem to the edges of the hole through the lid? Or is an adhesive not necessary? I don't want any holes sucking air.
  
  
• How might I go about decorating the outside of a mason jar?
  
  Anyone who read this far, I commend you. Thanks for any assistance. This will be my first homemade piece besides a G-bong.

Oh that magnetic scrubber sounds so cool, what a good idea! I only clean my pieces with ISO and salt once a week, but love keeping my bowl downstems clean after each sesh, makes such a difference in how clean the hit is for me! Also, I’ve spent many days where I’d run dry, and use a small dull knife, pair of tweezers, and/or various other tools and scrape so much kief out of my grinder I can’t believe it every time.

After the ingrown toenail tool discovery, I started looking at everything with a new set of eyes. Anything had potential to be the next best weed tool haha. My overall essentials are a small natural bristle dense makeup brush, the toenail too, tweezers, knife, standard straight pokers, Bobby pins, actual pipe cleaner, alcohol wipes, teaspoons with fun designs, mini shovels, and other stainless steel tools made for dermatology or ear cleaning.

Toenail tool from my kid was actually in a set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVJVDKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8AmPZTaSDILqt

Hi all,

Cross posted from r/Dynavap.

Note for r/StonerEngineering: For the unfamiliar, Dynavap is a brand of vaporizer, used primarily for vaporizing flower. It is very popular in the r/vaporents community. Although these vaporizers are mostly heated with torch-style lighters, magnetic induction is another popular way to heat the Dynavap, as it is flameless and quick. So that's what this is - a portable induction heater built into a travel mug, designed specifically for heating Dynavap vaporizers...perhaps on the sly...

I'm making and selling these portable, travel mug-based induction heaters through my web site, http://www.fluxerheaters.com. I had a long wall of text prepared describing them, but unfortunately it got wiped out when I tried to post just now. So, um, this is actually the shorter version ;)

The Fluxer Grande - named for the Starbucks drink of the same size - is a portable Dynavap-specific induction heater housed in a 16 oz. Simple Modern brand "Classic Tumbler" mug, available in 25 or so colors from Amazon. A mug in the color of your choice is included with the heater insert. BTW, the mug just holds the insert, so you can remove it and use it as a mug again if want to.

I machine the heater inserts from garolite, (aka G10), a smooth finished, fiberglass reinforced epoxy resin. In addition to being extremely rigid, this material is also heat resistant and electrically non-conductive, so it's ideal for this purpose. The finished heaters are powered by 3x 18650 batteries (not included), and feature a press-tip-to-activate tactile switch at the base of the coil. This is a high quality, high temp-capable, low operating force tactile switch, made by MEC brand. These are a lot nicer than more commonly used cheaper tactile switches. The vapcap can contact these switches directly without melting them or causing them harm (assuming normal vapcap temp and usage).

I am beginning a batch of these heaters this weekend, and expect to have them ready in 1-2 weeks. The heaters in the first batch will be $175 + shipping; subsequent batches may be priced diffently. Travel mug and heater insert are included with oirchase; batteries and charging cable are NOT included, as you will save money by getting those items from Amazon, Wallmart, etc. if you need them.

Finally, yes, I am aware that Dynavap will be introducing their own mug-based IH soon. I've seen the previews and it looks like a decent unit. I don't have any more info on it, but as far as I know it has not been released or even officially announced yet. If and when they do announce it, I will re-evaluate the Fluxer Grande and see if it still makes sense to offer it. In the mean time, however, I am selling these, so if you want a mug-based induction heater for your Dynavap now, I'll be happy to make you one.

A couple of short, poorly recorded video clips:

In use: https://youtu.be/D9iHf0SIe6c

Disassembly and reassembly: https://youtu.be/qKBYolp7iEs

Thanks for reading! I hope you all have a great weekend.

You guys should make a brush-tip attachment. I have an inch-long brush that I use all the time on my grinder and pieces. Mine came with some random electric shaver, but I would totally pay money for one, because it's hella useful. (found it!: http://www.amazon.com/Shaver-Aids-Electric-shaver-cleaning/dp/B001CJ693A)


Since, as I found out while writing this post, they're super cheap, I don't know if it would be worth it, but it's something you could consider. Or, you know, other things that might not seem obvious for a poking device, but would otherwise be awesome; I don't know what that might be though, but good luck.


Okay, actually thought of something else [7]. One problem I've encountered a few times is having a resiny bowl clog while the bowl is still fresh. One solution is to empty the bowl and clear the clog, then repack it, but that suck. What I do is use a paperclip to unclog the bowl while it's still packed. So another attachment you might consider is a long, straight, extremely thin needle that you can use to unclog bowls and shit. But, again, no idea if this will prove valuable relative to your interests.

Update: So I've been extensively testing my DIY Balsa wood MFLB- and below listed are my observations

1. While using freshly charged 2800 mAh Nimh rechargeable batteries, the mesh gets hot quite quick. If i look closely at the herb under the plexiglass- I can see vapor form within 10-15 seconds of engaging the battery.
   
   
2. If i use the Advanced method outlined in the MFLB flight guide, which is- Sip- sip-sip-sip and then a longish slow drag (in native mode- without any sort of stem)- My lips really do feel the heat- and I have burnt my lips (in a minor way though) quite a few times. - With this method I have been able to achieve some visible vapor on exhale and the hit feels real good and extremely flavorfull. A successful hit like this needs the battery to be engaged for at least 50+ seconds (almost a minute)- The battery get quite hot to the touch
   
   
3. Soon the battery looses power and I typically need two batteries to bring about 0.2 grams of herb to an even brown with a toasted smell.
   
   My conclusion so far:
   
   I think the mechanical bond between the mesh and the copper wires isn't ideal- as a result there's a lot of wasted power as the battery heats up- making this whole setup quite inefficient
   
   Which leads me to the following questions:
   
   
4. Should I be using Copper clad Steel rods instead of solid copper rods
   I saw someone suggest these
   https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-506-26CPK2-Pipe-Hanger/dp/B000H5YCMK/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1478582466&sr=8-25&keywords=copper+pipe+hook
   Will this make a significant difference?
   
   
5. I've seen people suggest Lead free Silver Solder to bond the conducting rods and the SS mesh- Will this make a significant difference? If yes- will this solder do?
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HA7XLP6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AG2F6V09PFCTQ
   
   
6. While soldering the conducting rods with the SS mesh- will i need to use Flux? If yes- what kind of flux will I need to use - (I'd much appreciate it if someone could link me up to an amazon.com product here)
   
   Thanks in advance fellow ents! :)

Try:

1. dealextreme.com / dx.com (same place) or focalprice.com for infrared thermometers (their prices include shipping, and yeah, when you look up iphone cases, you'll be upset if you've ever bought one in NA at a mall stand) - the dealextreme.com place has a ton of electronics stuff, arduino-esque stuff too if you're wanting to get fancy
   
   
2. food-grade vinyl tubing at plastics/marine/hardware store; there are different types so ask until you're comfy with what you pick; if you ask at your local head shop, about the glass ends available for this sorta thing, there are several. For my Arizer (something like that), there are a bunch of glass fittings (compatible with other glass fittings I've seen) -wait, here's a link http://arizer.com/store/8-extreme-vaporizer-parts (I just picked up a $20 kit at my local shop with the whip, glass mouthpiece, Elbow to connect to the cyclone bowl, um...the screens for same...and another glass stirring tool... I believe that the 'connections' of the cyclone bowl, and so on are standard scientific-type connections; if you check out science-supply sources, you can find a range of glass 'bowls' you can use that connect to them; if you're in the US, you can even get them shipped to you cheaply...the nice thing, they're certified to not react, to deal with heat to a certain temperature, etc. and aren't going to melt/gas plastics, etc., when you're using them. This may allow you to heat directly on the glass itself (just drop to the bottom?) - think 'lightbulb vape' but not likely to kill you....
   
   here's an example - http://www.amazon.com/Chemglass-CG-1512-09-1000mL-Single-Evaporating/dp/B005WVRHFS/ref=sr_1_82?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1348542044&sr=1-82
   
   For that, it takes a standard glass connector (I think similar to that found in the Arizer packages) - but you should be able to get one with two holes, if you want (or a 2 way connector than plugs into the top to allow airflow etc. (you could actually put this on top of a cheap hotplate to get it going (scientific ones are $150+, but hell, you just need evenly distributed heat). If you really want to get fancy - check out these: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D318083011&field-keywords=20%2F40+joint&rh=n%3A16310091%2Cn%3A%2116310161%2Cn%3A317970011%2Cn%3A318049011%2Cn%3A318083011%2Ck%3A20%2F40+joint
   
   Anyway, I've not followed through with my plans, but that's some of the stuff I found when I researched it a couple years back.
   
   edit: oh there are also mason jars, of course, which tend to put up with heat fairly well. I did a quick test the other day, just punching two holes in the metal lid, and tossing some pot at the bottom of the jar - I held the base (with the pot) over the edge of my gas stove's flame, and presto, vapor ... I'd do some checking to see how much heat/the limitations for this stuff.
   
   edit2: if you're really temperature picky, invest in a calibrated hotplate - then you'll know exactly what you dial in is what you'll get. Hmm...now I'm wondering if something like this: http://www.amazon.com/1800-Watt-Portable-Induction-Countertop-8100MC/dp/B0045QEPYM , with a mason jar sitting on an old cast-iron pan (or does it need to be steel?) may just work...the conductive stovetop heats the pan, which heats the glass (this is where a flat bottomed boilign flask would be best, since the heating would be even), which heats the pot, which you then enjoy :D
   
   edit3: Depending on your 'container/bowl', would a simple flatiron (be it for clothes, hair, or craft (the tiny ~1inch square ones)) be sufficient to heat things up? (without all the noise of a heat gun?) ; you can also look into mesh/fibrous materials that you could heat that don't actually come into contact with your pot - (grab some inexpensive copper wire, roll into small ball with air spaces galore that fits at bottom of your cyclone bowl, attach the ends to a 9v battery and presto - a heat source, not in contact with your pot, that you can suck heated air through (that get's heated) to vape? And yeah, I'm at 7 after experimenting with the bong I just made out of a container for 2kg of Whey protein powder, some spare tubing, and a metal bowl/shaft I had lying around unused. HEll, there's enough room there for a bag of ice, and space to spare, I dont' think I'll use my 'real' bong ever again - this capacity was perfect, and it's so easily cleaned. Tomrorow I'll have to get some silicone to create better seals...thanks for prompting my creative energies tonight.

I was in a big pinch the other day and I used some Gorilla Super Glue and it worked pretty well until I ran hot water over the bowl. It re-broke (the stem was broken cleanly off a bong's bowl) and I re-glued it. It lasted a little over a month and then it managed to re-break again after 10 different cleanings. Not bad for some random super glue that didn't even have glass listed.

To be honest, I think the best bet is just to Google something like 'glass glue'... just found this super glue which seems to have OK reviews. http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-233841-2-Gram-Super-Glass/dp/B000PSBBM8

Here! http://imgur.com/TNEgXoh

Here are the parts I ended up buying, everything else (resistors, the potentiometer) was kind of just lying around.

• Copper tape
  
• Wall adapter
  
• DC/DC converter
  
• This is the potentiometer I used, but it really doesn't matter.
  
  More info:
  
  
• On the battery arm, I drilled a small hole and ran a wire from inside the box, through the arm, and through the hole. The wire is soldered to the copper tape.
  
• The little nipple of the positive battery terminal is a banana plug I stripped and cut in half with a hacksaw.
  
• I bought the converter unit with negative polarity, so I had a bit of trouble soldering the switches together properly. If you buy the positive polarity model the wiring should be much more straightforward; that being said, you'll have to deviate from my wiring diagram quite a bit. When in doubt, check the datasheet.
  
• The potentiometer on the left side has the added bonus of integrating a switch! If you turn the temperature all the way down, it will 'click' off. Its switch is separate from the potentiometer portion and it's in series with my power button, meaning you can't fire the power supply unless it's been definitively turned on.
  
• Many thanks to /u/AwesomePixelMan for help with this project! He has done many cool builds like this! This fellow's writeup was also a great resource. (Mine is nearly identical except it adds switches).

Since it's a really clean break with no missing parts, here wold be my advice:

Get some marine grade epoxy and carefully glue it back together.

Done it on many of my own pieces or friends' pieces - bowls, bubblers, bongs - with no issues. Hell, it's how I fused together my two broken bongs into one massive functional one, and fixed a tree perc in the process. Considering that it's a bubbler and that the break isn't anywhere near where the bowl wold get hot, you're fine using an adhesive. 2-part epoxies are really strong once they cure and the marine-grade one, specifically, states that it can be used on glass and, well, in water scenarios.

Tips would be:

• Gently clean the area with some isopropyl alcohol to make sure there isn't any resin in it and the epoxy has a clean surface to attach to.
  
• Make sure you use the 1:1 ratio that the directions say
  
• Get a good amount of epoxy on both sides before attaching, but not so much that it spills into the air pathway. Don't be afraid to put a little more around the break like an extra support band.
  
• If there are any small gaps/holes from the break, yo can gently fill those with epoxy too. It doesn't look like it, based on your picture, but that's without seeing the full 360 of the break.
  
• Give the epoxy proper curing time. It'll probably be a day or two.
  
• Rinse everything out after it's properly cured. Make sure there's no glass chips to inhale.
  
  After all that, your piece should be totally fine, albeit with a grey epoxy band on it.

Diamond Drill Bits, Baban 10Pcs Hole Saw Diamond Drill Bit Hollow Core Drill Bit Set for Diamond Coating, Carbon Steel for Glass, Ceramics, Porcelain, Ceramic Tile, Marble, 6-32mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L92YM1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x.QUCbVDBJFS2

/\ get some of these and a 14mm downstem on eBay. 14mm is the way to go cuz you can dab with it too. Just make sure to practice drilling glass at least 10 times before you risk that beautiful bottle. Best of luck!

http://www.amazon.com/Zeikos-ZE-HC36-Camcorders-Photograpic-Equipment/dp/B001HJTK5Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417204050&sr=1-5&keywords=hard+equipment+case

This kind of goes against the 'engineering' aspect of this sub, but I bought a case like this a couple years ago for my tube. It's fairly small, it's probably 4" wide across the base and less than 16 inches tall, but this case (or one similar) is absolutely perfect for carrying and protecting glass. It has foam padding on the inside that is a bunch of connected square foam pads, so it's very easy to cut a design that will snugly fit your piece. I also was able to cut out separate slots for my bowls, downstem, grinder, and pill containers.

Maybe you have a box or something that would fit your glass, and all you'd need is to find some foam to fill the inside.

That looks more like an electric screw driver in a drills form factor.

You might get better results with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver-8-Inch/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1478633522&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A9060578011

I don't own this unit so cannot recommend - just saying a corded drill will probably work better.

How tight a budget? Because you can definitely get one off amazon for <$10. The one I got there seems to have doubled in price to around $8 is right here but I'm sure there's bunches of suitable ones.

It may actually be cheaper than the nail thing someone on here suggested.

Alternatively, the LEGO thing seems okay

[this is what i used because i have a dremel] (http://www.amazon.com/SE-82331TF-pieces-8-Inch-Diamond/dp/B000P49BX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370366072&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+dremel+bit) (if you dont have one, id suggest getting one they are great for anything)

Absolutely! Just make sure you have either ceramic, diamond, or carbide bits otherwise you're gonna destroy all the bit heads. If you don't have them I may suggest either of these...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P49BX8/ref=aw_1st_sims_1?pi=SL500_SS115

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012DLA3U/ref=aw_1st_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115

...they ain't the worlds best bits but the price is just right and they've lasted me at least 3 projects, and will probably make it another 3 for sure. And they're cheap to replace!

You can get a low quality plastic one on amazon for $3, a low quality metal one for $5 or a high quality one on amazon for $15. I have the chromium crusher I've had it for YEARS.

No, in order to drill anything you need an actual drill, not a screw driver. Also it looks like in order to hold the hole saws you would need a chuck and the driver doesn't have a chuck because it uses the same size bits for every use.
Edit: Link for cheapest drill I found on amazon that will work.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Glass-Glue-2-Gram-233841/dp/B000PSBBM8
I would try this but I'm not speaking for experience. It claims to be heat and water resistant.

If you still have the other section, I would get some Loctite Glass Glue and use that.