Best products from r/TinyHouses

We found 33 comments on r/TinyHouses discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 192 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/TinyHouses:

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/TinyHouses

I am in process of buying land and working on a house design. I speak only for my local area (which is, funny enough, the same county the guy plopped his tiny house in from the "Tiny" documentary). IANAL ETC ETC YMMV.

> So are some areas tougher on building code than others or is it the same across the board in the same country or at least same state/province?

In general cities are much, much less forgiving. They also tend to have much more in terms of regulations and rules, as well as fees. Rural counties tend to err on the side of "leave me alone" and are more forgiving. However, the least populated county in Colorado (San Juan) is near Telluride which is full of rich people, and some of the most restrictive county wide regulations that I have seen. The population of San Juan is 690 which makes 2 people per square mile.

> The goal here is to minimize total expenditure.

Then you should read The Earthbag Building because this is literally clay, sand, bags and muscle. Now my county has specific regulations about thickness and such but is one of the few counties I researched which did not have a minimum size for any building and did allow such designs. To get a certificate of occupancy is pretty simple, you need to have sanitation, water, electric, insulation done. That's not very hard to get to cheaply, especially if your goal is to just get that COS.

> Are there legal requirements regarding what sort of professional background or professional designation that you must have to be able to design a building? For example, do you need to be a licensed architect or a professional civil engineer with a stamp to do this work? Would architectural plans need to be approved by a professional or can you approve your own design? Hiring an architect or a civil consulting firm costs money. Easily couple grand each or more.

In my experience you will probably need any unusual design stamped by a PE. However, if you present plans to a PE it will be relatively cheap to have them stamp it.

In some cases your county building department will be pretty good and help you a lot because you're doing something really interesting, and quite frankly their job is boring as shit otherwise. I am lucky that my county is more on this side, and I expect to have very few problems once I finish getting land and get serious about permits and building design.

> What about various aspects of the construction work? Are there certain aspects of the physical home construction process that must be done by a licensed professional as a matter of law? For example, electrical work etc? Again, hiring an electrician costs money. If you can buy parts and do it yourself it costs less.

It is extremely difficult (I can't say impossible, but it's damn close) for a county to force you to hire a licensed contractor. In fact it would be the exception. Generally if you do the work yourself you've probably tried to adhere to the code more than most contractors anyway, and often inspections will be easier on the owner-builder than on the contractor. Obviously there are always exceptions.

If you follow the code, and you follow permit procedures, they will have a hard time saying no. If you run in to this situation it is often cheaper to take your plans to a PE and get them stamped.

Also, don't be afraid of doing electrical or plumbing yourself. It isn't that hard, and with electrical you just need to make sure the power is off. Otherwise it's all easy.

> Suppose the area doesn't have water and sewage and a septic tank and water well needs to be build and drilled respectively. I suppose a septic system will have health and safety implications and so perhaps there are local authorities that oversee this and are extra stringent on approved methods of septic tank construction?

Counties will typically have to follow state law at the minimum. In my county it is possible to do a number of crazy sanitation things but they all come with restrictions. For instance if I wanted an outhouse I could not get a well permit. Well permitting is done at the state level, but the county will not allow a well to be drilled with an outhouse. My county will allow compost toilets, they will allow other interesting situations, but quite frankly a septic system is a lot easier to deal with than a lot of the other restrictions.

You do run in to offsets and concerns with neighbors when you put in a leech field and drill a well. This just is what it is and you can't do much to skirt it.

> What other info regarding doing-it-by-the-book can you add on the subject of design & construction?

Read all of the land use regulations and county building codes you can before buying land.

Read lots of different books about design, including design books that may make you uncomfortable.

Try to design solar heating and the power of the sun in to your house as much as you can. This will save you a ton in heating costs.

u/BackyardAndNoMule · 3 pointsr/TinyHouses

You can have anything done in one of the following three ways:

  1. You can have it cheap and good, but it won't be fast
  2. You can have it cheap and fast but it won't be good
  3. You can have it fast and good, but it won't be cheap

    There are four main cost categories that go into a house:

  • land
  • permits/Inspections
  • labor
  • materials

    Assuming you have the land, we will ignore this.

    Permits:
    ---
    These are typically a set price, so these can be ignored too; regardless of if you build or contract the build, the permits will be the same.

    Labor
    ---
    Figure out what labor you can do yourself and what you can't. Some people are real good with the framing and can do plumbing, but electrical scares them, so they contract that work.

    Some people can do all things but need extra hands for some heavy lifting; many times laborers can be hired specifically for helping to raise walls and steady sheathing for attachment. Roofing is one that usually requires some level of hired help.

    Most people do, and should, hire a contractor to prepare a proper foundation.

    Materials
    ---
    For the work you do yourself, you will be getting the materials yourself. When house plans are purchased, many times they come with the material requirements for the framing in terms of linear footage: every exterior corner needs 3 studs, every 16" of wall needs a stud. Every wall needs two top plates and a bottom plate. Every X sqft of floor needs y amount of plywood sheets. Many contractors have formulas that automatically figure this stuff out, but you will have to do it yourself.

    Anything contracted comes with the materials included in the final price.

    Buying in bulk is cheaper and many contractors have deals with their suppliers for lower-priced materials due to volume expectation and business history.

    All that said, the median price for home construction including an unfinished garage is $155 per sq. ft. the low end is $125 per sqft.

    For 850 sqft, that's about $106K to 131K.

    This involved contracted work at every level, so everything you do yourself knocks off a chunk of that cost.

    The first step is getting the plans. If you want to do this, buy the plans and build the house in sketchup or similar.

    Learn the codes for building; Internet searches can help with this immensely and there are a few layman's guides for home inspections and code-adherence. This book helped me out a lot too.

    Your house plans include the following:

  • Cover Sheet
  • Foundation Plan
  • Floor Plan
  • Roof Plan
  • Cross Sections
  • Exterior Elevations
  • Construction Details
  • Electrical Plan
  • Furniture Plan

    This makes things very easy because it tells you how to arrange the foundation footings, how to lay the beams and joists, and how to frame the walls. A simple count of things will give you a cost break down for the materials, then add 10-15% of that for a rough estimate.

    Next factor in contractors for things you can't do yourself. Remove the materials from your materials cost and then add in the contractor cost. This is your new estimate.

    From experience I can tell you that framing is about the easiest part of the whole job. It's labor-intensive, but it's very easy to do. I recommend a nail gun unless you are an experienced carpenter or framer; those guys can drive a sinker in with a single whack... my money is on you taking at least 8 whacks, per nail.

    I don't see this taking $50K or less. Price estimates look like this, for all non-framing:

  • Foundation: $8300 - $13,200 depending on type
  • Electrical: $5100 - $6800
  • Plumbing: $3000 - $5000
  • Roofing: $4000 - $8000 (assuming high-end of NC work. Your roof is pretty flat)
  • HVAC: I have no idea.

    Electrical plans for new home plans are usually pretty light (pun) on the illumination options. Many new homes don't have a light in the room at all except for the kitchens and bathrooms. With your electrical cost, plan for adding additional lighting like recessed, pendant, sconce, etc. Plan for ceiling fans

    Dry wall you can do yourself easily. Hire experienced tapers to do the seams.

    Painting can be done yourself.

    Flooring can be done yourself, tile is harder than wood, is harder than laminate. Good tile guys can knock a floor out pretty fast.

    Trim work can be done yourself. mind the studs.

    Windows can be done yourself, but a set of guys hired to install the new-construction windows can pop them in in a hurry.

    Hire someone to do the front door hanging; leaks are a bitch and front doors are heavy. Do the interior doors yourself.

    Exterior siding is a big job. If it's stucco or brick, hire a contractor, especially for the brick. If it's vinyl, that's easy. Wood is about as easy as vinyl.

    If you ever wonder what should or should not be done by a contractor: go here
u/LordoftheChickens · 3 pointsr/TinyHouses

I stepped out of the solar industry a few years ago, but at the time the best beginner's book was Photovoltaics: Design and Installation Manual. Be aware that if you go grid-tied, the National Electrical Code is constantly being updated, and you should stay up-to-date so your system is safe and code-compliant. Off-grid, you should also follow best practices, but the NEC has less to say about such systems. You might want to go grid-tied anyway (if your utility allows), because batteries are less efficient, expensive, and can be finicky beasts at times.

If you want to take a course, online or elsewise, check out Solar Energy International.

A super resource, and one that I can't recommend enough, for all renewable energy DIY things has always been Home Power Magazine.

All in all, it's not too difficult to design and install your own PV system! Good luck!

u/aktuarie · 55 pointsr/TinyHouses

Here's what I've got. I lived in a room at a friend's place for 5 months in a 9 x 10 space with no other storage so I feel you on this. It's going to be tough but possible.

----------------------------------------------
KITCHEN
-------------------------------------------

  1. Dishes and Food: Use the space over the mini fridge for this. 4 place settings total, you don't have room for dirty dishes so you've gotta just wash them as you use them. And face it, you're not having guests over in this place. Get a storage unit to sit on top of the mini fridge or put in shelves to store food. You may have some extra room inside or on top of the cabinet to store some other kitchen items. For washing dishes you'll just have to dry as you go and skip the dish rack, unless you can cover the stovetop and get one of these bad boys, storing under the sink when not in use.
  2. Pots and Pans: Like someone else suggested, put in shelves or a hanging rack over the stove. Maybe a magnetic board behind the stove for magnetic jars of spices + knives. All you really need is a frying pan or two, a small pot for pasta, and a baking pan for inside the oven. You could even store some of the pots and pans inside the oven but I don't recommend it.
  3. Counter/food prep space: Find a butcher board sink cover in the appropriate size or have something cut to size at a home improvement store.
  4. Under the sink: Whatever you can get in there.
  5. Opposite wall: You have very little space but if you have just a few inches, you can install these bad boys which can store way more stuff than just shoes.

    ----------------------------------------
    WEIRD HALLWAY
    -----------------------------------------
    This is your storage spot. It looks like you might have a foot or two deep to put shelves opposite the kitchen door. Go for the cube shelves at IKEA - as wide as you can get, I'm guessing 2 wide. If you have 8 feet of height to work with, get the 4 x 2 and stack the 2 x 2 on top (and secure to the wall and each other VERY WELL). Now you have 12 cubes - Use the Drona boxes as clothing storage drawers (fuck the built in drawer inserts, they waste too much space). Use the other space for books, bathroom stuff like towels, etc. It will store tons and tons of stuff and keep it out of your "living space".

    ----------------------------------------
    LIVING SPACE
    ----------------------------------------

    Alright, this one is the biggest challenge - I'm assuming you'll be spending the most time in this room. But with kitchen and storage in the other spaces, I think it's workable.

  6. Bed: I found this lofted bed with lots of shelves and stuff, which could be a good option if you can't fit shelves in your hallway. Assuming you don't need more storage, I think going for a simpler lofted bed would work better. IKEA has several, some sturdier looking than others.

  7. Seating: Go with the classic "sofa under bed" design from college - find something that is the width of the bed minus the width of the ladder and find a small table to go behind the ladder section. I also recommend this laptop table as a great option for both computer as well as eating purposes. The legs tuck under the sofa to take up minimal space. Alternatively, go sideways with an easy chair and a small table across from it for a TV. It depends on how much walkway you have left with the lofted bed.

  8. TV: Mount that baby up across from the sofa - you can watch TV from the couch or bed. Win-win. If you need to hook up a console, etc. find a really skinny shelf or a small bookcase to tuck into the back corner of the room (where the bunk ladder is). Or you can go super minimalism and just watch shit on your laptop to save yourself the hassle. If you need to hook up electronics to it just make sure you have the appropriate adapters and whatnot and store those on the table next to the sofa.

    -------------------------------
    LIVING ROOM - OPTION 2
    -------------------------------

    Cover the floor with the biggest, nicest mattress that will fit and cover it with lots of cushions.

    ----------------------------------
u/Behemoth_haftaa · 6 pointsr/TinyHouses

>What's are some good frugal tips for building a tiny home?

Tiny Houses Built with Recycled Materials: Inspiration for Constructing Tiny Homes Using Salvaged and Reclaimed Supplies
Ryan Mitchell
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DMQ0TEK/ref=kinw_myk_ro_title

>salvaging old campers for their propane fridge/stove combo.

Personally I am forgoing RV appliances completely. If you choose to use solar power you will have to wire your home for DC and AC electric, and to use less watts choose new appliances after 1993. Once household appliance manufacturers had to disclose how much energy an appliance consumed all of a sudden the appliance use of electric was cut in half.

While I am building I plan to use a friend's yurt to live in and have an outdoor kitchen/bathroom. So possibly you could use the combo for a while after the Tiny house is built until you have the interior finished!

Keep in mind RV appliances were designed and built for a couple weeks of use a year and regular household appliances were designed to be used 52 days a year.


My two favorite youtube channels are these :

https://youtu.be/oK_MDCPFYpA he's very informative but doesn't overwhelm you.

This guy is far more detailed, he even made his own windows: https://www.youtube.com/user/danny16p/videos peanut is the cutest urbane cultured dog ever, Dan would be much more enjoyable if he didn't drink booze so much. A slimmer waist line on him he'd be buff.

In regards to buying salvaged products you don't have to salvage the material yourself: https://www.habitat.org/donate/?link=271&source_code=DHQOW1407W1GGR&iq_id=61484080-VQ6-81398378715-VQ16-c&gclid=CLiKvvmqmtECFcq2wAodXhMFAQ habitat for humanity resell store in your state, find it.



Tiny House Design & Construction Guide Paperback – Unabridged, May 1, 2016
by Dan S Louche
https://www.amazon.com/Tiny-House-Design-Construction-Guide/dp/0997288701/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483046655&sr=8-1&keywords=tiny+house+construction+and+design thats the best book as a primer. get it.


Tiny House Floor Plans: Over 200 Interior Designs for Tiny Houses Paperback – February 22, 2012
by Michael Janzen
https://www.amazon.com/Tiny-House-Design-Construction-Guide/dp/0997288701/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483046655&sr=8-1&keywords=tiny+house+construction+and+design I found the page which the floor plan outlines and the cut outs for furniture, printed them on transparencies and have it taped to my desk. If you are planning to use salvage materials have 4 prototypes planned to the hilt and have those plans in sketchup http://www.sketchup.com/download have two alternative plans that are very vague and not built to use as parts of the building you can swap out with the other 4 plans.

Most states require you to have a primary dwelling started (think septic tank and foundation for a house) then your Tiny house can be your accessory dwelling.

For wiring which might complicated if you choose to use solar: http://thetinylife.com/shockingly-simple-electrical-for-tiny-houses/ that will help.

Then another of Ryan Mitchell's books: http://thetinylife.com/cracking-the-code-updated/


I hope this helps. setting aside 2 years to plan and research before starting would be an excellent idea.

u/must-be-aliens · 3 pointsr/TinyHouses

No clue if this is going to be helpful, but I agree that those clamps will rust if they live outside and I'd like to provide some ideas from a campers perspective, as we like hanging tarps. All of these options need some small rope/paracord/bungeecord/whatever and something like an stainless eyelet screwed into the post, though they end up being simpler mechanically and easier to adjust.

  1. Try to find a blanket with corner ties. I don't know if they have another name but they look like the tassle things on poncho liners.

  2. Generally only tarps (not picnic blankets) have grommets but its something to think about. You can even buy grommets on their own and sew them into the blanket of your choosing if you are handy with a sewing machine. High end camping tarps like this aren't like the ones at walmart and have reinforced corners, often with D-Rings. Not cheap though. If you like stuff like this there is other fancy hardware from Dutchware that make stringing it up easier.

  3. Low tech and versatile, you can use the method campers use to string up a tarp when the corner rips out. Get a small round object (a rock or something) place it into the fabric from one side and tie a knot around it from the other, it will look like this

  4. Last one doesn't have traction in camping that I know of and I've never used them before, but something like these clamps might be worth a shot for the price.

    Edit: fixed the last link


    Good luck!
u/tugrumpler · 1 pointr/TinyHouses

I use a 2kw Honda generator for emergency charging through a 20amp marine battery charger and for running the large power tools. I built a DC generator for every day charging using a Harbor Freight gas engine and a 40 amp car alternator. I have two Walmart deep cycle marine batteries which are adequate but not very long life, eventually I'll replace them with four Trojan T-105 golf cart batteries. It's critically important not to discharge them more than 50% nor to let them sit partially charged any longer than absolutely necessary. To keep up on charge state I very highly recommend a charge monitor like this.

I have not built my solar system yet but will be using two to three 250 watt panels with a midnight solar MPP charge controller. I use very little AC power so a small Xantrex 600 watt sine wave inverter is sufficient.

I am wiring my cabin with two AC circuits and a few DC outlets, all lighting will be DC LEDs (as in these with small dc/dc power converter boards, I put eight of these in my boat and have two in the camper for the time being, lots of light and only 90ma ea). I haven't decided how much AC I'll be using but I've used DC exclusively for the last year in my 22' camper as I get my site ready to build. I am using an RV fridge that runs on propane and a Mr Heater 18kbtu propane heater, I pay about $25 a month for propane and that will balance out in summer when the fridge takes more to cool and the heater isn't used.

I do not see the need for large inverters unless you come across one used that also contains a large marine (3-stage) battery charger - if I had one I wouldn't use the DC generator as much. I don't run microwaves or electric appliances, just a small tv and small loads that are quick to charge like a Nintendo DS, iPhone, mp3 player and tiny speaker system.

Passive cooling with shade trees and wood fired heating are best if you're off grid. Controlling demand is easy once you get used to it, you do not need a big inverter and in fact they waste a lot of power when they're searching for a load so you're better off with small ones.

Oh and wire to hook it all up is expensive, I use this which is a fraction of the cost of marine stores, it's welding cable so it's practically burn proof and it's extremely flexible. You just need a big hot torch to solder lugs on it because the bare copper conducts the heat away quicker than tinned wire does.

Good luck.

Edit - these Astroenergy panels are what I'm considering, this vendor seems to have good prices at least on panels.

u/BuckRafferty · 14 pointsr/TinyHouses

Timber framing is not the same as 2x4 construction, but a timber frame may use 2x4's to fill in the gaps. The main difference between a timber frame and "stick-built" (2x4) structure is that the timbers are the main source of structure or "skeleton" of the building. Once the frame is built, you just have to fill in the empty spaces. You can do this with dimensional lumber like 2x4's, or you can do cordwood, which is cement and logs (looks amazing). There are a number of other option for filling in a timber frame that your book probably covers. Timber-framing is a bit more involved and physically demanding than 2x4/stick built framing, but it is also much more beautiful and will last much longer. I've timber-framed a few small cabins and I can tell you first hand that it is an incredibly fun and satisfying way to build.

​

Edit: this is also a great resource https://www.amazon.com/Timber-Frame-Construction-Post-Beam/dp/0882663658/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=timber+frame&qid=1563287101&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/Dlofc · 8 pointsr/TinyHouses

Oh Fellow Tennessean! HOWDY! If you are outside Davidson AND outside city limits, there are no building codes, but a good idea to adhere to them. AC is actually recommended to help control humidity. Here is a link to some amazon ideas.

https://www.amazon.com/OLMO-Mount-Ductless-Conditioner-installation/dp/B07BWKM7P7/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=precharged+mini+split&qid=1567832392&s=gateway&sr=8-5

There are kits like these if you want to get fancy. Personally, a window unit works very well in the upper floors and then just let cold air do what it does best, sink. I use 10000 BTU in mine, which is REALLY big for what I need, but it uses a whole 6.5 AH when it is running. My county does encourage a pay-as-you-go electric that allows you to monitor your usage. Yesterday's usage cost me a whole.97, it really hurts the pocketbook. Winter, if you have the option, go with electric heat. It is dry heat and helps to control the moisture too. Moisture is that much problem in little places. Vents in the bathroom, kitchen and use them religiously. I have heard of people having to use dehumidifiers too but I have not had problems since switching on the AC and going to a dry heat.

I would take pictures but I am lazy when it comes to the digital world"=P I don't even own a cell phone.

u/stinkypeech · 2 pointsr/TinyHouses

I am also a solar panel noob but i just managed to set up a system in my bus. I went with 4 renogy panels, they're cheap, good, and seem to have a good customer service.

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B009Z6CW7O

We have 3 of them for 2 people. You will need a charge controller to regulate the energy going to the battery. If you opt for a nicer MPPT controller, you will have 30% more nergy coming to the battery. That's what we did.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G3XTWTS/ref=twister_B01HHRLB1K?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

For more of an idea on what to do for the electrical system, i used a video by a guy named campervan cory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZY4BWEZ4ig

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

u/tehzephyrsong · 3 pointsr/TinyHouses

You get what you pay for, and you spend a third of your life sleeping, so a bed is worth investing in.

That said, would you be willing to consider alternative styles of beds that can be put away during the day, like a rolling futon mattress or a foam pad similar to the one that the sofabed you linked uses? If you prefer a firmer bed, a futon like the one in the first link will serve you well. My SO and I sleep on the queen-size one and it works very well for us, although we both like very firm beds. It's pretty easy to roll up and move when needed.

u/sixup · 2 pointsr/TinyHouses

The Black and Decker Mini Rice Cooker is the shiznit for heating up leftovers, especially if there is only one or two people wanting to chow. I use this thing daily, lately, and in total I've had it five years. Dead simple to use, easy to clean, easy to find a spot to stash it.

I use it to cook/reheat...

oatmeal

quinoa

soup

steamed anything

warm up things like fruit cobbler, pie


Best $20 kitchen thingie ever!

The only thing I don't cook with it? Rice. Don't like rice.

u/B_Brownies · 2 pointsr/TinyHouses

This book can walk you through the process of installing small PV systems start to finish. It is very easy to read and was a great help while I was studying to get my NABCEP cert.

http://www.amazon.com/Photovoltaics-Installation-Solar-Energy-International/dp/0865715203

u/learethak · 9 pointsr/TinyHouses

If you are doing it by yourself, let me recommend this book since a lot traditional carpentry assumes there will be someone else there to hold the other end of the tape, help you lift stuff, hold boards while nailing.

Both for safety and sanity, you have to approach things differently.

u/SeveredKibbles · 4 pointsr/TinyHouses

>What's the climate like at the college you have planned?

UW Madison, so hella cold. I'm going to get a cargo van (no windows in the rear to let out heat) and insulate the tar out of it with rockwool. I'll also have a [indoors-safe propane heater] (http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422033045&sr=8-1&keywords=buddy+heater) as well as a low power electric heater that will be powered by a battery banked charged by my alternator.

>You might want to consider a community college or somewhere where your living arrangements won't be under scrutiny.

I plan on getting a degree in biology and then go on to vet school, so I'm pretty set with going to Madison.

>some colleges don't 'allow' you to live anywhere but the dorms..... Or a C class RV.

That's why I plan on getting a small cargo van (an AWD Astro to be specific). I can rig it up to be comfy and warm with almost no sign of me being in it. Ill have a metal bulkhead that blocks the front seats from the back, which doesnt look out of place in a cargo van, and the only exterior mod I'd make is a sunroof, which most people couldn't see anyways since the van is over 6ft tall (I'd do this for ventilation and light).

>You'll probably only be there to sleep and relax

Thats the plan, I hope to be either at libraries or at the gym for a good chunk of the day.

u/ductyl · 2 pointsr/TinyHouses

Well, Amazon has these Japanese floor futons that seem to get really good reviews, although they're more "rollable" than "foldable", they also have this folding mattress.

u/jamilbk · 1 pointr/TinyHouses

Good catch ;-)

I'm using the Renogy 100w monocrystalline panels. They claim to be 21.3" wide by 47" long: http://amzn.com/B009Z6CW7O. My roof is 92" wide, so it will be a tight squeeze but they will fit.

u/dillpiccolol · 4 pointsr/TinyHouses

Guitar Hangers (be sure to put these on studs)

[Knife rack for kitchen] (http://www.amazon.com/StageTM-Studio-Guitar-Keeper-Hardwood/dp/B00FW6YG5C/ref=pd_cp_MI_3)

[Drying rack for dishes] (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20213835/) - Need to buy the bar to hang this on which you can hang pots and pans from.

Another option is to put nails in your wall and hang pots / pans on the wall. Install some shelfing as well to give you some more space.

u/Syllogism19 · 3 pointsr/TinyHouses

It is really good. More than just tips it also goes into his thinking and his way of thinking about a project and planning it.https://www.amazon.com/Working-Alone-Pros-John-Carroll-ebook/dp/B003TXSRF0

u/BrokenGroup · 1 pointr/TinyHouses

I've got a Mr. Heater Buddy for my tiny camper:

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

It's approved for indoor use and you can get a propane tank to hook it to that will last you months. For my camper I basically use it to take the edge off.