Best products from r/Trackdays

We found 26 comments on r/Trackdays discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 60 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

15. Neiko 30252A Water and Oil Separator for Air Line, 1/4" NPT Inlet and Outlet, 90 psi

    Features:
  • WATER SEPARATOR: An essential air tool accessory for mechanics and craftsmen that stops moisture, water, oil, and particles from entering air spray guns and other air compressor tools to keep your equipment in top performing shape.
  • OIL SEPARATOR: This air filter unit separates the oil from the air as it goes through your air hose the oil needs to stay inside the compressor to keep it lubricated while the compressed air needs to exit the compressor free of oil to ensure maximum air output to your air tools and increase reliability and lifespan.
  • MAXIMIZE PERFORMANCE: The inline oil water separator traps water vapor and dust to maximize the performance of air compressor tools for cleaner and more even jobs providing excellence in execution and saving you countless dollars in replacing expensive air tool equipment.
  • TRANSPARENT DESIGN: This air compressor in line dryer has a clear build that allows you to monitor the buildup and the amount of water and dust particles that this filter has trapped. Quick release valve conveniently located to removed anything trapped inside.
  • SPECIFICATIONS: Each in line air compressor moisture filter comes with a 1/4” NPT inlet and outlet for any standard air hose with a quarter inch fitting and can handle pressure to 90 pounds per square inch. Durable aluminum housing construction with brass fittings.
Neiko 30252A Water and Oil Separator for Air Line, 1/4" NPT Inlet and Outlet, 90 psi
▼ Read Reddit mentions

Top comments mentioning products on r/Trackdays:

u/_tanith · 7 pointsr/Trackdays

If you actually want a shot at the podium, these are what I would recommend at a minimum (and you already mentioned most of these):

  • Front brakes: Stainless steel brake lines, race pads, and RBF Dot4 fluid. Flush it several times throughout the season.
  • Steering damper
  • Suspension: Proper springs and valves for your weight, set up by a reputable tuner.
  • Mild tune: Hindle full system (cheapest), BMC race filter, and take it to a reputable dyno tuner to unlock the ECU and tune. They might recommend other mods.
  • Bodywork: Armour Bodies, Flexi Glass, or similar. Paint it if you want but this is basically a consumable item that will need to be replaced after some number of crashes.
  • Controls: Adjustable rear sets and clip-ons. Vortex are highly adjustable, modular, and therefore, crashable.
  • Tires should be obvious. You're going to spend a lot on them. Use fresh slicks for races and then finish them off during practice/track days.
  • Find out what gearing works best for the track(s) you'll be racing at, and buy the correct sprockets and chains. I run aluminum rear sprockets but they barely last a season.
  • Optional: A tall windscreen like Zero Gravity Corsa really helps down the straights. A quickshifter is nice but won't drop you much time, more mental energy. A gear shift indicator is nice for moments when you get forced off-pace, such as race starts or getting stuck behind traffic.

    I recommend SV racing's tire warmers. They're cheap and reliable and have multiple temperature settings: http://www.svracingparts.com/store/#!/SV-Racing-Parts-New-2017-Series-180-190-Series-Adjustable-Tire-Warmers/p/10237728/category=22883337

    I use a Honda clone generator that has been nothing but reliable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SMNLF4M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Also, this should be obvious: track days. Make lots of friends and they will show you the lines and point out where you can drop time. After a few months they'll be asking you for pointers.
u/the_mullet_fondler · 6 pointsr/Trackdays

Crashed pretty bad this spring and a friend of mine builds carbon fiber and fiberglass boats for a living, and offered to show me how to do repairs the right way. Some pics of the process. Carbon fiber and fiberglass work essentially the same way.

Cloth is glass or CF, and resin is 2 part epoxy. For structural repairs, he recommends keying up (roughing) the inside which is typically primed with 80 grit or so until you see bare glass for at least an inch outside of the repair area, see the third pic in the above series. Clean it well with acetone. Do this for all the interior sites that need glass to repair.

Get a big table like you see in the picture, lay thick drop plastic on it. Lay out your cloth on the drop plastic - you usually want 2-3 layers of cloth and offset the 'weave' by 45 or 90 degrees between layers depending on number of layers to get strength in all directions. Don't trim it just get a big-ish piece like the carbon fibre in in the set of pics above.

Mix up 50-100 mL of the resin at a time according to the manufacturer instructions, it's an exothermic reaction and will get hot, hot is bad (can set on fire) and it will go off faster meaning less work time. You're better off pouring it all out on the plastic on the table (higher surface area will keep it cool).

You've got maybe 10 minutes in warm weather (90 deg) or 30 or so in cooler (around 65-70) as a rule of thumb, once the resin gets kind of tacky it's toast.

Pour the resin into the cloth and use a rubber spreader/squeegee to smear it into the cloth. You'll want to paintbrush on ('prime') the keyed up glass on your part with some resin, ideally this should be resin mixed with some silica to give better adhesion and strength. Do not breathe this shit in.

Get clean scissors then trim the cloth with the drop plastic - so you've got a backing layer of drop plastic behind your layer of cloth soaked in resin. This lets you handle the cloth and apply it in funny tight corners. Apply to the primed surface (you've got ~minutes to do this). Unpeel the drop plastic once the cloth is on the part to your satisfaction.

Note here: excess resin and air bubbles are structural WEAKNESSES. Cloth is what gives strength. Lots of guys just slobber tons of resin on cloth with a paintbrush and this is signature of an amateur job that will just crack bad at your next crash.

To get rid of bubbles and excess resin, you get peel ply and apply it in strips to the back of the cloth you just stuck on. Stick it with your hand then get a clean paintbrush and stipple it so the excess resin goes thru it and eliminate any air bubbles. This is an engineered material and will not bond to resin. Leave the part to dry overnight, and then you can tear off the peel ply which will take any excess resin and unevenness with it. It also leaves a pre-roughed surface perfect for priming or another layup of glass.

u/goalygy · 2 pointsr/Trackdays

Hey! Sorry for the delay.

It did end up working out! Here is an album of how it fit

I bought two wheel chocks that had a metal support bar. I drilled a set of 1/2" holes on either side and mounted the chocks to the bar. It's a tight fit, but it worked out perfectly.

Strap-wise, I strapped the outer handlebars to the trailer's corner strap points, which was basically the only thing that secured the chock to the trailer (more on this later). I then strapped the inner handlebars to the opposite chock, to pull the bike into the chock as there wasn't a trailer strap point. I played around with the rear straps, it seems if you secure the outer side of each swingarm to the middle strap point on the trailer, this helps pull the bike forward into the chock. I then strapped the inside of each swingarm to the trailer's opposite side corner strap point (left bike inner swingarm, right corner).

During the trip home from the track yesterday the chock assembly did slide around a bit due to rough roads. I left the front straps a bit looser to be easy on the suspension, so this may have played a factor. the rears of the bikes didn't move. Either way, I'm going to build an adapter to bolt into the drain hole that's in the middle of the trailer's wheel chock. I'm thinking a couple eye bolts and a bigass turnbuckle should do the trick, or it may be as simple as an L-bracket or angle iron bolted on. I've got to do this again in a couple weeks, so I'll update on what I do.

u/slakwhere · 1 pointr/Trackdays

oh i couldn't see those in the other shot, that actually looks pretty good :) the ratchet strap may be overkill for holding them to the wall, i'd just drive some simple anchors into the wall studs and use bungees. in that photo i posted above they were hard tied to one end to make it easy to setup and remove, you couldn't lose them and they were just the right length. worked a treat!

you may also want to grab some of these for your floor mounted E-track, it takes away some tripping / toe stubbing hazard.

the other pro tip is to get a couple of E-track eyelets and put one on the floor and another on the wall directly above it, near the ceiling. span your tie down straps between them when not in use so they're never tangled and always easy to get to.

if you don't already have power in there, look into a 12v deep cycle battery and a box (leave it outside, they vent noxious gas if you're sleeping in there). having lights (and a stereo) is amazing.

u/LtDanHasLegs · 1 pointr/Trackdays

Depending on what trackday org you normally ride with, there's normally a suspension guy there to help.

Virtually every racer I know pays the suspension guy to setup the bike. There's some very good books around to learn more about suspension setup (Race Tech's Suspension Tuning Bible is very popular, and I learned a good deal reading it), but in general, those books will help you communicate with the suspension gurus more than they will turn you into a suspension guru.

It sounds like the shock is stiffer, and causing the front end to lift by keeping the rear from squatting under heavy throttle. It's probably a good thing overall, but there's also probably a better middle ground to be had.

Are you running a steering dampener? What bike is it?

u/Tosi · 2 pointsr/Trackdays

We have several different roll-on chocks in our trailer but this is the winner by far, cheapest too. Really hugs the tire, makes it a little challenging to remove (as seen in the reviews) but honestly it's a perk in my book. Seems the bike steady and doesn't waddle like many others. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4YNDHM/

u/Boogieman065 · 2 pointsr/Trackdays


>Is there a good way to go about getting custom graphics for my new bike? The owner had put stuff on the bike that just isn't me, and wanting to find out how to make it my own.
>

Most cost efficient track bike only owners use rattle cans. Look into spray painting/decals and using 2K clearcoat to seal it. If you're patient, the results can be real close to what professionals will do for you.


>At what point are tire warmers actually necessary? I got a pair with the bike, but haven't ever used them.
>

They help prevent your tires from going through multiple unnecessary heat cycles. It'll preserve the material. The use of warmers is more important if you're on track slicks than street tires, as track tires are not designed to go through many heat cycles. Track tires also provide very little grip when "cold" to the point where it could be dangerous for the first few laps.

>Im in California and my local tracks are Sonoma Raceway and Thunderhill.
>

Awesome sauce! I'm in Sacramento and I'll be at Thunderhill September 16th.

u/lennlen · 1 pointr/Trackdays

I'm using the stock clamps, and as you imagine, not without some difficulty, as the stock clamps slip a bit. I use a generous amount of duct tape on each grip to protect the powdercoating.

I may get the mojo clamps in the future, but the pricing and ordering process is keeping me away. I don't change enough tires to justify the cost. 10 car tires, 6 bike tires so far. I've changed 4 more bike tires with spoons in the past - the harbor freight setup is light years better.

Edit: Also, this bead breaker has been a godsend, especially on stiff car tires. I have a generic china version from ebay: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HK2V138/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/champ_town · 1 pointr/Trackdays

Talk with your local paint supplier on that particular brand's processes - but you will likely want/need to reprime it so it is sure to stick (and the primer you want to be compatible with the paint you use). I know the primer I used, you wanted to lay paint on it within 48 hours or so for best adhesion.

  • After initial sanding, make sure to wipe down with a cheese cloth, then follow up with a solvent on a clean rag (paint thinner, mineral spirits, etc)

  • Your time between coats will be specified by the paint you buy, it'll probably 30-60 minutes. Then the clearcoat is probably the one you'll have to wait a day to put on

  • Again talk to your supplier, but usually the fine grit sanding is done between clear coats, then buff at the end

  • You will find there is more to buy than just "paint" - usually you need the paint and a catalyst, plus a thinner. You will probably leave the store with 8 cans of stuff

  • The big thing to think about after you setup your booth - how are you going to hold/hang all the pieces? Can be tricky. Hanging works ok for some pieces but they tend to move around (just the air coming out of the paint gun can blow a piece around). Make sure to set each piece such that you can get to all sides and you aren't spraying at a different piece behind it

  • Buy a drier

  • Get all the other stuff with your paint gun, like a holder, mixing cups, strainers, etc.

  • Buy a quality respirator

    It takes some practice to get the amount of paint correct, as well as dialing in the gun (watch some Youtube videos). There is a somewhat fine line between putting the final coat on too light and it showing up dry, or all of a sudden you put too much on and you have a run. Don't forget to clean the gun thoroughly after each use.

    Final advice? Don't sweat the imperfections, it's a track bike and we aren't pro racers. Also accept that your first full paint job or at least the first couple pieces you do will probably not look great as you learn how to setup the gun and control how much paint to lay down.
u/QuintanaR0o · 3 pointsr/Trackdays

I've been using a cheap digital one but interested to see what other responses you get. I love this little thing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037V0EW8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/cheez0r · 3 pointsr/Trackdays

One note- when I had that trailer (it was my first m/c trailer, I have a 16' enclosed trailer now) I put Pit Posse/Pingel-style chocks on it and was able to put 3 sets of mounting plates in the 3 bike positions (left, center, right) at the right spacing for the bikes to co-exist, and then could swap from a single-bike with one chock to a two-bike setup with two chocks in like 30 seconds. Coupled with a cheap ATV ramp as wide as the trailer it was a very cheap and easy trailering setup. Add some nice strapping points around the edge of the trailer and it'll do the job well for a long time.

If you're planning to keep it a while, adding additional bolt-in bracing to the deck isn't a bad idea, or even just some 2x4 stiffening cross-members to help keep the trailer from "taco-ing" when you strap down the bikes.

u/DogUsingInternet · 1 pointr/Trackdays

I think you might be able to snag an Aero for the $1100 mark if you negotiate. Here's a point of reference you can show the shop (they may not match since it's online, but it at least gives you some ammo).

Agree the colors are a consideration - I found my size in black/white and black/red/white. Both are very nice, but I have a black bike and a helmet with some high-viz green/yellow on it, so I think the black/white suit fits that better than one with too much red.

If you can afford it and find the look you want, I imagine you won't regret the Aero.

Although the Stingray is one hell of a suit too if you prefer it. The inside knee soft puck is a nice touch.

u/PLD · 1 pointr/Trackdays

I like cam straps because they're easier to work with than ratchet straps. I have Ancra straps that are fantastic. I'd definitely buy them again. I also prefer to use use Canyon Dancers to hold the bike still in my truck bed, but its rear wheel is nestled into the corner of the bed and acts as a chock, sort of.

I have a 5-gallon VP Racing fuel jug. It has served me well, but it's tough to mess that up. I imagine any decent jug with a hose will do.

My ramp is a generic folding metal one from Amazon. Says Raider on the side, but it's exactly like that one I linked. It takes some getting used to, but I use it to get my bikes into and out of my truck bed by myself. Even the one without a kickstand.

u/empire00 · 2 pointsr/Trackdays

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BRGK90W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These bits with a moto-d drill Jig does the trick nicely. Go slow keep the bit in line and dont push too hard. Drill/Tapping lube will help as well.

u/remembertosmilebot · 2 pointsr/Trackdays

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SMNLF4M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/bicball · 3 pointsr/Trackdays

The floor wasn’t too bad, 4x8 1/2 inch. Anything thicker and it won’t fold. I bought a bunch of bolts and hardware for it, and some foster bits to counter sink things.

I used these for hooks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014VPXQDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Kuh6AbH4BMEV3

Also have to buy lights a third wheel, and a chock (HF). I used a ton of loctite too because the entire thing is bolted together.

One of my bearings spewed out a ton of grease so after buying a bunch of grease, a grease gun, a bearing packer (which I never used), bearing buddy’s, and overnighting a couple of non standard seals, I came to the conclusion that the axle or bearing itself was made wrong and couldn’t be fixed. I ended up buying a replacement axle with hubs and bearings that’s beefier, of a standard size, and has ez lube spindles.
https://compact-camping-concepts-2.myshopify.com/collections/compact-camping-frame-parts

I use a HF 60333 ramp and it works great. I drilled 2 holes through the folded ramp and the trailer deck and tighten a wing nut onto long ass bolts parallel with my bike.

These straps are excellent
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9DG650/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kDh6AbVKTE0VQ

So yeah, cheap trailer got cheap results. I’m happy with where it’s at now, but it took a good amount of money and anger to get there. I do need to have the tires replaced as part of the recall, though they makes you take them off the rim, return them, and mount the new ones.

This is what it looks like
https://imgur.com/gallery/5aqeG

u/preeminence · 2 pointsr/Trackdays

Glue them to the bar/throttle tube better? Alternatively, buy a Canyon Dancer and don't worry about your grips at all.