Best products from r/Trucks

I bought 2015 mirrors for my red 07.5 dmax and it looked great, the wide angle was far superior to the kind you are looking at (stock ~40degrees, 2015 ~170 degrees) off amazon for around $270. I don't remember the brand but they were plug and play except for the work lights. I highly recommend them, you'll get a nice clean look and the wide angle really is astounding compared to 2012 tow mirrors. I posted a review also.

07-13 Silverado Towing Power Heated Chrome Mirrors LED Signal & Clearance Lamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018M8JBPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bi2EybY3RHRES
Edit- looks like the price dropped

A couple people have said they may want to try this in the future. Let me post some helpful info for you guys that helped me along the way:


First here is a very helpful image of the wiring for the stereo harness for my 2011 F150 XLT 4DR SuperCab (not super crew) 5.0L V8 with SYNC and with integrated factory radio (see first image in the imgur album linked at the top of this post):

http://imgur.com/0TGvfZj


As you can see, and as I've said a couple times in this post, there is no accessory wire. This is really useful to have as the stereo will know when to turn itself on/off when you insert/remove the key. This post:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1118879-2011-wiring-diagram.html

showed me where I could find the accessory wire in the ignition harness. This video is helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0dM2d9UEtk

in showing how gain access to the ignition harnesses, and at 1:20, he'll unplug the main ignition harness that contained the purple/green accessory cable. Note in the link i posted with the wiring diagram, it shows the accessory wire being in a harness that contains two rows of pins, but I tapped into a purple/green accessory cable that was in a harness that only contained 1 row (see video).

This is the exact trim I purchased:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BG4NNQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


which came with mounting brackets (OEM mounting brackets did not fit my new stereo head unit) for the stereo as well as a face plate for the stereo.

I opted to NOT retain my SYNC, as I didn't see the benefit of it. My new stereo unit had bluetooth so there was no need to use sync. This:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1


helps maintain the VOL +/- as well as the Prev/Next buttons on the steering wheel. Sync buttons no longer do anything.


You will need this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQNE?keywords=chrysler%202002%20antenna&qid=1453138917&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

which connects the stock FM/AM tuner radio antenna to your new radio. I used this backup cam:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Q65ZIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

which mounts on your license plate. Quick easy and cheap. I did purchase a wireless video transmitter, but it didnt work well, and just ended up running the video cable under the truck (was pretty easy with no lift too), through the firewall, under the steering wheel, and into the center dash. Hope this proves helpful to others!

Hey there-- I had a 2000 Explorer Sport with a 5-speed. If yours is like mine was (and mine was identical to the 2000 Ranger) this might help. The shifter was stiff moving between gears, and sometimes I had to pump the clutch pedal to get it to move in or out of gear, especially when stopped.

The clutch is hydraulic.

The master cylinder is oriented in such a way that if the seals on the master cylinder piston are starting to fail, it has a tendency to pull air into the master cylinder, which gets trapped at the top of the piston, causing the clutch to get spongy and not fully disengage when you press the pedal all the way to the floor. Sometimes pumping it a few times will help temporarily, but it always comes back. You cannot bleed this bubble out of the system by pumping the clutch and using the bleeder screw.

This video shows the first thing I tried. It lets the air out of the top of the master cylinder without removing the cylinder from the car. It's awkward, difficult and messy. You'll want to cover the driver's side floor with a plastic trash bag and put something absorbent on top, like paper towels, to protect your carpet.

This worked for me... temporarily. IF THIS WORKED, chances are your master cylinder seals are going, which is why there was air in the system in the first place.

The permanent solution, for me, was to replace the master cylinder. It came complete with a fluid reservoir and the hydraulic line that goes all the way down to the quick-disconnect check valve at the slave cylinder on the clutch. It cost something like $65, and looks like this. Double-check to make sure that's the right one for your truck. When it arrived, I filled the system and did a full bench-bleed like this:

Ranger clutch bench bleed.

Hope this helps!

You probably got downvoted for recommending Craftsman...
I think Craftsman is just fine for an amateur - especially someone who's asking for advice on what to put in their toolbox.
There are some things you can go even cheaper on - Harbor freight sockets are good to have, as are their box wrenches. Anything that requires gripping (vice grips, pliers, etc.) I buy the best I can afford - cheap stuff will just strip itself and whatever you're trying to remove. Irwin (the original Vice Grip) makes good stuff for the money, IMO.
I really, really like this set from Craftsman for my truck - add a few types of pliers, channel locks, breaker bar, this cheapo bit set, hammer, magnetic pick up too, flashlight (a headlight is even better, especially on the side of the road), safety glasses, gloves, wire brush, electrical tape, duct/gaffer's tape, teflon tape and you have the ready for damn near anything box.

> These are the flush mounts I have, they are pretty damn bright for reversing.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WNM3K9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And you just cut holes in your bumper and put them in? Looks like it'd be a pretty straight forward install, am very much liking this approach! How'd you place them, like are they more centered or off to the sides? Presuming the latter!

See this reference, page 6 under "Tools Required":

>Welding or cutting, in most instances, is not required; however, there are variations in different vehicles that may require the use of a welder or cutting torch.

Additionally, page 8 under "Body Lifts":

>A body lift is not required on both the 2WD & 4WD versions. However, we have found that a body lift greatly increases additional engine, transmission tunnel & hood clearance. This, therefore, reduces the amount of firewall and floor pan modifications. Usually a 2” body lift is adequate in helping to alleviate these clearance problems.

So, looks like you might be able do it without any cutting or welding. That whole PDF looks like a good read for someone going to attempt the swap.

Looks like there's several places that sell swap kits for putting a V8 in an S10, and here looks like good reference material for the swap, or might not be a bad idea to buy it to see what you'd be getting into.

These are 4 in lights,bet they would fit. They had great reviews on amazon and were easy enough to install (about 3 hours for both pairs on their own switches). They come with a bracket. I had to modify (read: drill a new hole) in my fog light brackets. Honestly, shopping around for lights you can get cheap ones. The brand is what you pay for, there are only a handful of factories in china that make em.
Ones Im using as fogs.
What I am using as high beams.

Get one of these.

I''ve had the same one for the last few years, I don't know why it took me so long to buy one but they making clearing off my truck super easy.

I have a 5.4l 3v. I have done a little research on them (as I want to know if my engine will grenade).

The 5.4L 3v does have some issues. However if you are diligent and do some preventative maintenance/repair, it can last and is a good motor.

The spark plugs that come from the factory are 2 piece plugs and seize in the head and snap off. When this first started happening this meant getting the head pulled to fix it. Now, you can buy a cheap tool, swap them out with a high end 1 piece and itll never happen again.

Now on to the cam phaser issues. The cams have a cam phasing sprocket. That change the cam lobe timing, giving better efficiency at low end (i think. It would seem to me if you build a car and get to choose which side has the best efficiency, I would do it at high speed).

These engines are notorious for these failing and costing big money. However there is a cheap kit you can get before hand, to prevent the problem.

Here is a video of the 5.4l 3v spark plug "hot extraction method". The motor is brought up to temperature, then shut down and the plugs are changed hot. Ontop of that, you use a 3/8 impact gun and they come out fine.

TL;DR this motor has quite the reputation but dont let it dissuade you if its a nice truck and you can turn a wrench and buy a 40$ torque wrench.

I don't use a tonneau cover so I can't help with that, but for snow brushes I have one that extends to like 6', and has a rotatable brush head on it with a brush on one side and rubber squeegee type thing on other side that I always leave crossways, like a broom. Easy to push and pull the snow off my roof, windshield, and hood from one side of the truck. I just push a strip off the far side, then pull a strip back towards me, then repeat.

Before I started buying this type of brush, I always climbed up in the bed and brushed the snow off the roof that way. Screw all those who don't properly clean the snow off their vehicles!

Edit: similar to this one

I have a Street Guardian hard wired in my 2012 F150. Haven't needed it so far but I'm very satisfied.

http://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-Camera-Edition/dp/B00U0OJMYG

Join us over in /r/dashcam

Its tricky but the secret is don't drive like a maniac with dogs in the bed. Having dogs that weigh 50+ helps too.

I do have a couple of these though. Highly recommend them.

These for stuff like that shovel would be nicer if you're always going to put it in the same spot Original Quick Fist Clamp for mounting tools & equipment 1" - 2-1/4" diameter (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQPANY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sQb.Ab68C7ZH8

These are some of my favorite places to shop online (not necessarily in this order). There is also Amazon for some parts like this.

Rockauto.com

SummitRacing.com

LMCTruck.com

ClassicParts.com

Monster transmission.com

Jegs.com

I agree, LOVE this body style.

When I first bought the truck a few years ago, used and relatively decently taken care of, I changed the plugs immediately (they were bad..).

One thing is, if you're going to tackle the job yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

This tool will save you. I broke 3 out of 8 plugs. I ran one piece champions but they ran terribly. So I went back OEM motorcraft plugs and if it comes time to change em again, I am not worried because I have my lisle tool. =]

I bought one on Amazon for like 25 bucks a while back. The app I used with it, Torque, is only available on android. Really good app though. No problems with the scanner itself. Had a good range too. Will post link when I find. Btw I know for a fact that there are other apps that work with this scanner. So don't worry if you do not have android.

Link http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416539603&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

I wouldn't spend less than $70 after my $60 one crapped out. I got the Falcon Zero on a lightning sale. I'm definitely impressed with is so far.

FYI, instead of paying 100s for new lights, you can spend 15-20 bucks and buy sanding kits for your lights to make them more clear. You tape around your lights with painters tape and you put the special buffers onto a drill and after about an hour you got clear lights. There are multiple kinds you can get, but here's one off of Amazon.com.

easy af! bought it from amazon https://www.amazon.com/BDTrims-Tailgate-Plastic-Letters-Silverado/dp/B07KPP62CH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2O6R58I1N2ZJF&keywords=2019+silverado+tailgate+letters&qid=1564059676&replacementKeywords=tailgate+letters&s=gateway&sprefix=silverado+tailgate+letter%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-1-spons&vehicle=2019-47-491------------&vehicleName=2019+Chevrolet+Silverado+1500&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMMURSU0NEOExBSE4mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1ODk2MjQzOE9WRTlBNlJSWVBGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwOTAyNzIyRzhFQ0pFQjVXNDlWJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

This is what I have for my 100lb German Shepard. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I11LX60/


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SLIEHE/

I've never purchased one of these since my Silverado came with a back up camera but if I didn't I was going to purchase one of these:

Esky 170° Viewing Angle Universal Car License Plate Frame Mount Rear View Camera, Waterproof High Sensitive 8 IR LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMC8QXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SitVzbDDENY3T

Never had anyone I know purchase one of these but it seems pretty practical for trailer purposes. I believe it connects to to your phone wirelessly.

Edit: I'm not sure how or if it could work, but you could buy two. One for the truck and one for the trailer.

I know the boost I was getting because I was using the Torque Android app with this Bluetooth adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_iRt7ub082RP1T

The total investment is around $25 for a full scanner with live data. Check it out. It's worth it.

Edit: It will be closer to $29-30 now I guess

These are the flush mounts I have, they are pretty damn bright for reversing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WNM3K9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2004 through 2008 F-150 5.4 liters have the retarded spark plug design, and I usually recommend replacing them every 70k miles, and installing new plugs with anti-seize applied around the electrode/sleeve.

It is possible to remove them without breaking if you perform a fuel Injector flush (special dealership service using jungle juice and a canister to provide you're own fuel pressure) and change then right afterward while the engine is still semi-warm.

However if you are doing it in your driveway without such services, they will likely break and a special tool is needed for removing the remaining piece of spark plug.

Works very well, but you'll want to move some components aside to give yourself some room for the more rearward cylinders:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00267PZUK?pc_redir=1406368882&robot_redir=1

As someone with an older truck, with plastic headlights that get that haze over them. Meguiars Headlight Restoration kit had mine cleaned up and looking/functioning like new.

Also, my black plastic fender flares had oxidized, and hitting them with a magic eraser got them back to looking new.

I have a Street Guardian SG9665GC v3 which sticks directly to the windshield. If you have a tinted strip at the top of your windshield then it's basically invisible.

It's powered by a standard USB cable, so I just tucked the cable into the headliner, then pulled the driver's side door seal and tucked the cable into the A-pillar. Ran the cable down to the fuse panel and plugged one of these 12v to 5v USB adapters into an add-a-circuit that has key-on-power.

As for the rear cam, I got a B40 camera (same form factor as the Street Guardian, with cheaper components inside) and ran a second usb cable tucked under along the edge of the carpet, up the C-pillar, across the rear headliner, and down to the back window.

Dashcams and Rearview Camera.

I am using a VIOFO A119 for the front and an A118C for the back.

I like to see my bumper when I park so I got a Back Up Camera License Plate Frame and a RearView Mirror Monitor ($25 and $22 delivered).

The angle of this camera is 170 degrees so it's pretty wide. You can move it up and down to adjust your angle and lock it with a screw.

Connect the camera to the reverse lights so it turns on when you put it in reverse, the mirror monitor detects a signal and turns on with it.

The monitor even has 2 inputs, which you can use with a switch to mount one on the front if you want.

Had it for a year with no issues.

EDIT: Prices changed.