Best products from r/Welding

We found 83 comments on r/Welding discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 459 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/Welding:

u/tryin_to_weld · 3 pointsr/Welding

I am a journey fitter. If I were you, I would invest in a Pipe Fitters Blue Book and a Pipe Fabricators Blue Book. These might seem like a different language to you depending on how much you know, but if you stay in the trades they will definitely benefit you, plus you can ask someone at your work how to use them. If anything they should be happy about the fact that you are proactive and went out and purchased a Blue Book, as that is scripture for a fitter. This will also show them that you are serious enough to invest in yourself and your craft.

The IPT Pipe Trades Handbook is an excellent book, as is the IPT Metal Trades and Welding Handbook, but they are almost triple the cost of the Blue Book. If you can afford either one (I would suggest the Piping Handbook as it will probably be more relevant to you), purchase it.

Good luck, Young Pipe Fighter. I hope my input helps and if you have any questions do not hesitate to ask. I enjoy sharing my knowledge and rarely get to do so, as this is technically a welding forum.

edit: if you decide to purchase the above literature and need help utilizing/understanding it, just ask.

u/justtanks · 1 pointr/Welding

I am a 30 year novice, but this AHP tig welds very well for under $1000. A good tig machine will weld aluminum just fine. Just be aware, welding thin aluminum is not easy, but you don't need a really expensive machine to do it. Many of the prominent welders on youtube use this AHP machine with success. I have one and I can weld aluminum with it, but not well. Aluminum is just more delicate and harder than steel. Please check out youtube for this machine and welding aluminum. Please show us your creations when you get to that point, good luck! :)

https://www.amazon.com/AHP-AlphaTIG-Stick-Welder-WARRANTY/dp/B076BSD6PG

u/Hurly26 · 2 pointsr/Welding

I'm going to stick with recommendations based off new equipment (used is tough because you could find a really good deal but it's a total luck of the draw thing).


In my personal opinion, I think that your budget will point us away from the big industry names (Miller and Lincoln). The big names will have units under $2000 but they will be very bare bones.


I own an AHP Alphatig 200x.. I believe I purchased mine for $750 (same price currently at that Amazon link above). Going this route will leave you lots of additional money to pick up an argon tank, filler material, and whatever else you might need. AHP also has an upgraded model of this welder, the Alphatig 201dx. This new model is currently on sale through the website for $720!


The other brand I'd recommended is Everlast. Some quick recommendations that probably fit your requirements: Powertig 200dv or the Powertig 255ext.

Google both of those brands, check out their websites, and do some additional research to see if there are better options for you.

The main reasons (I think) these brands will be better for you are:

  1. Price point vs. available features


  2. Anticipated use (you don't require a high duty cycle for a low production environment (although both of these brands have machines with really good duty cycles considering their price points), you're not lugging this around a construction site/through mud/banging it up so you don't need the absolutely most durable piece you can find.)


  3. Ease of use and adjustability


    Everlast has several even lower price point models that might fit your criteria as well. The models I chose (including AHP) have AC/DC capabilities (allows you to weld aluminum one day as well as some other more exotic metals if you ever get bored), dual voltage capabilities (can run off a standard wall outlet 110 V or off of 220 V), and tons of other features to fine tune your output.

    If you get into all this and have any more questions, shoot me a message. Good luck!
u/taycky22 · 1 pointr/Welding

Thanks!

Yeah -- my expectations for TIG is low. I'm excited to take the free class -- even though I believe it's meant to get people introduced and excited about continuing on welding -- but I'm definitely not expecting to come out of it comfortable with TIG.

Stick is the only type of welding that I've done. I'm placing a pretty high value on whatever machine I'm getting having MIG & Stick capabilities. I'm glad you re-iterated the value for a newbie. I'm the paralysis by analysis type, so I need to harden on my requirements here :)

I could always get a cheaper MIG and pick up a used tombstone, but frankly, my area is horrible for secondary tools. I've never perused pawn shops for tools, but maybe that's a direction I need to go.

I don't see a ton of application for 1/16 for what I'm aiming for. But again, I'm ignorant in this world.

I think the one application/idea that I want to incorporate that's maybe a bit different than your average table legs is that I want to incorporate some decorative, mid-century (geometrical) patterning inside of my rectangular table legs. MIG seems like the way to go for that, correct?

In reading some feedback I'm leaning toward the:

u/SAMSON_AITE · 2 pointsr/Welding

For your welding the key basics to practice are clean materials. (Your doing great with your wire brush if it's really pitted consider grinding the surface smooth.)

Practice a cursive e motion. You want to go show enough that you have a puddle of liquid metal your dragging along as you make your e but fast enough that you don't burn through your material (it will spark when it's burning) you are also going slow enough that you pre warm the area your heading too.

Try to hook your ground clamps as close to your weld area as possible and on to the more substantial piece of material. The area the ground attaches too should be clean metal as well for the best results.

Never weld galvanised pipe you can die from metal flume fever (zinc poisoning) don't ask me how I know.... If you really have to then make sure your in an incredibly well ventilated area and never do it indoors or even near the mouth of a garage.

For welding gloves you want something that goes to the elbow. You don't know pain until you have a molten slag bb get into your clothes and burn into your skin it sucks. I've been using these for the last 5 years with moderate hobby use and they have heald up great. I've run about 30 lbs of wire through my welder over that time.

u/CarbonAltered · 2 pointsr/Welding

by all means , if you dont wanna buy habor freight you dont need to its good enough to start out

these are things i am personally buying for my self

​

small things could be , 2 to 4 of these

https://www.harborfreight.com/35-lbs-rated-4-34-in-heavy-duty-welding-magnet-63798.html

some clamps

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-f-style-welding-clamp-63512.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-c-clamp-locking-pliers-64564.html 2 of these would be nice

some C - clams would be nice tho these are not the best ones , bigger ones are better imo

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-industrial-c-clamps-39610.html

​

if he dont have an angle grinder , this one has great reviews

https://www.harborfreight.com/corded-4-12-in-7-amp-professional-angle-grinder-56435.html

some hearing protection

https://www.harborfreight.com/hearing-protector-64675.html

a face shield for grinding

https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-face-shield-46526.html

soap stones for marking the metal

https://www.harborfreight.com/flat-soap-stones-5-pc-60633.html

​

i have been told by a few people a respirator would be nice

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirator-6300-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B007JZ1MK6?tag=weldingchamps-20

https://www.amazon.com/3M-50051131070009-Particulate-Filter-2091/dp/B07571LKP4/ref=pd_sbs_469_t_0/134-3850798-5169829?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07571LKP4&pd_rd_r=7bda400a-3de9-4235-8a30-af24291d4f08&pd_rd_w=dkAXF&pd_rd_wg=EX0oJ&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=HWQAFKBFBWKEAJHMKG7V&psc=1&refRID=HWQAFKBFBWKEAJHMKG7V

hope these idea's help

u/zipposurfer · 1 pointr/Welding

If you are talking sub-$100, I really like this combo: get a cheap, new or used pipeliner style hood with a 2x4 lens. Jackson, Honeywell, etc. Then go on Amazon and buy the ArcOne Tradesman auto-darkening lens for $70 (currently), shade 10 with a 3-year warranty. You'll get an indestructible hood you can trash around with an excellent and lightweight lens, great clarity and color, and can easily swap the lens between hoods or trade out for a fixed-shade lens if needed. I've been really happy with mine.

u/board4life · 1 pointr/Welding

Work in a heavy duty fab shop, run a pipeliner with an auto in it. I've got the flip-up on it, which is extra handy given the policy on faceshields while grinding. A lot of other guys use the modern style hoods (company provides an adflo for everyone, or they just use their own "normal" auto dark). But they always have to switch between weld and grind modes or switch to a hood with just a clear in it to grind, they don't wanna grind on the expensive clears. I just flip the lens and grind away. Super light, doesn't reflect much light inside because of the chin, never catch sparks on my neck or chest. I'd highly recommend the pipeliner with an autodark in it for school, even if it's not the flip up (the flip up has some lens thickness restrictions since it slides in the side like a pancake, had to file the opening out a bit on mine). Get a gold 10 as well to run open roots with, sucks if your lens flickers the entire time you're doing those with stick.

Mine is the rubber band headgear, which was instantly replaced by surgical tubing. Had it for almost 2 years now and the only other hood I own is a pancake.

Hood w/ flip

Lens. I've run everything from TIG at 50 amps to 1/16" dual shield at 29v 300 wfs with that lens, love it. We'll see how it holds up to mcaw on monday.

u/chzaplx · 2 pointsr/Welding

I'm not a pro welder or anything, but I upgraded from a cheap HF model to this Lincoln and am pretty happy with it. https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Helmet-Black-3350-Series/dp/B019G6T4RS/

Also figured out I had left some of the green tinted packing plastic on for like almost a year, and it still had better visibility than my old helmet that whole time.

u/yellowman91 · 1 pointr/Welding

get a fibre metal tiger hood like this and learn to use a regular mask, they last a long time and are cheap. https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-5906GY-Piece-Helmet/dp/B007NL1S5K/ref=asc_df_B007NL1S5K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242010195282&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13228633230741582025&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023934&hvtargid=pla-593944233034&psc=1

for a welder, buy a used lincoln 225 AC buzz box and learn to use 6011, its the best rod to get good at. all other rods are fairly easy to run. look on craigslist. all you need for clothing is a long sleeve shirt like a dickies work shirt they are $20 at walmart and get welding gloves at a welding store or tractor supply. also wear safety glasses when chipping welds. go to a junkyard for scrap steel to practice on.

u/NBQuade · 1 pointr/Welding

It's thin but not that thin. Car sheet metal is often 20-22 gauge. I consider 16 gauge relatively easy to weld with mig. If you make it too heavy you won't be able to move it. I think your design is pretty over-kill unless you plan on putting really heavy things on top of the table.

https://www.amazon.com/TRINITY-TLS-7202-Wood-Table-Black/dp/B0170F49AO

I'm not suggesting you buy this but examine it and see how much weight capacity it has for a minimal amount of metal. Are you planning on putting 2000lbs on top of your bench?

u/metarinka · 2 pointsr/Welding

metals and how to weld them is a good book. It's more practical prescriptive knowledge "if you have aluminum do this, if you have brass do that".

Sindo Kou's book welding metallurgy is awesome!
"http://www.amazon.com/Welding-Metallurgy-Sindo-Kou/dp/0471434914" Its my go to book for refreshing my brain on welding metallurgy, although that's more technical on the metallurgy of melting stuff if you want to know the engineering side

hobart has a very good book series that is one for each weld process can't seem to recall the titles, I still keep them around when I teach welders. I'll warn you welding is not a trade that can be taught from a book, kinda like painting or sculpture the technique is too complex to really describe.

u/y4m4 · 1 pointr/Welding

This Chinese machine has all those features: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EL8UQH4/

I can't think of too many options that'll do AC/DC/Stick/Pulse/Freq adj. for that price range.

Everlast Generators also has a machine in your price range: www.everlastgenerators.com/catalog-tig?width=688&height=600&inline=true#product-nid-1276

These Chinese machine's aren't ideal, but they are gaining in popularity and acceptance. I ended up with a Miller Diversion 180 over a year ago because I couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger on a Chinese made machine. The information and use of them has spread a lot in the last year.

u/kennys_logins · 3 pointsr/Welding

How cheap is it? Does it run? Do you actually need a portable welder? That thing is a beast. Does it come with anything, leads, wire feeder...

OK, I'm going to address your list.

>1 Is this a good machine to have around? Is the power sufficient to grow with?

It's not about power. It's about utility, I've never used all 180 amps my machine will put out.

>2 Is it versatile? What kinds of welding will this do?

It will stick weld, assuming it comes with leads and an electrode holder. It could do much more if you had the accessories, wire feeder for MIG, High Frequency box and torch for TIG, etc. BUT it's old and finding gear and making it work could be expensive and time consuming.

>3 What is a no-brainer price, assuming full functionality but no accessories?

$2000?

But it's not really worth that to you as a total newbie. Go buy one of these: Lincoln Electric K2185-1 Handy MIG Welder

Why? Because you can plug it in anywhere, It comes with a gas flowmeter so you can do true MIG instead of just FCAW and you can do what you need to do, which is practice, practice, practice.

And when you need more capabilities? You can buy bigger machine and still own a small one for little jobs or sell it to fund your upgrade!

Good Luck.


u/BurntPaper · 1 pointr/Welding

It's made by Honeywell, but you'll see them advertised as "Fibre-Metal Pipeliner". Not sure if Fibre-Metal is what they call the material (Which seems to be some sort of fiberglass variant), or if it's a subsidiary brand of Honeywell. THIS is the right one, and the exact one I have.

But as a word of warning, I hate the stock headgear. Some people seem to love it, but I couldn't get used to it. It's basically a rubber band on a clip, and I broke mine the first day I had it. I switched it out with THIS Jackson headgear. You'll have to drill out the square hole that the existing headgear uses, and then drill a few smaller holes where the adjustment tab clicks in. I had an easy time since the hood I use for TIG is a Jackson hood that uses that same headgear so I was able to make a template. If you're interested I could try to figure out what size the holes need to be and send you a picture of the layout tomorrow.

Also, if you want a flip-lens, Sellstrom sells a flip lens mod, but it does require significant cutting. I bought one a while back, but haven't had the guts to install it yet (Plus I'm worried about the extra weight.). Very handy if you're switching between welding and grinding a lot, or if you want to save your neck and avoid doing the nod every time you strike an arc.

Outlaw Leather also sells pre-modified Pipeliners. They're a little bit too out there for me, but I've seen a couple around the shop and they definitely get a lot of looks.

u/MrManayunk · 3 pointsr/Welding

These are the best workboots I have ever owned. I am on my third pair in 6 years. They are light, steel toe, and waterproof. These are my go to for long work days. They wont fall apart, and nothing you do welding will mess them up. They come with weak laces, so I always upgrae the laces when I buy new ones, other than that, they are the best for the money. They do not make your feet hot, and the waterproof last for a few thousand hours of work at least. When the waterproof goes is when I buy new ones. If you wear boots that make your feet hot, you need new socks. Good socks will let your feet breath, cheap socks will get wet and make your boot feel hard inside. Never buy cheap socks. I personally go with light hiking socks or name brand athletic socks like Adidas dry fit that are thick.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0023RSKPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Caterpillar Men's Diagnostic Waterproof Steel-Toe Work Boot

u/DALTWON · 2 pointsr/Welding

My list would go:

Philips safety lens shade 12 (Absolutely amazing quality I never went back to an AD lens): http://www.phillips-safety.com/welding-safety/green-welding-lenses/welding-lens-small-2-x-4-25-green.html

New lincoln 4c 2x4 sens/shade/delay controls: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TMQRTX1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1X3HB95POB91O&psc=1

Arc One HD or whatever their latest model is.

Also this video could be some help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1JiVB41WPI

u/DerBrizon · 4 pointsr/Welding

Yeah... Zinc-Oxide is shitty.

Where I work they give us 3M reusable respirators with "cookie" filters:

Respirator

Filter

Notice the cost: 40-50 bucks to get started... I change my filters twice a day for the pink cookies (4 hours per set), and use a pair per day if I'm using higher quality organic filters. P100 filters clog up pretty quickly and they aren't meant for much more than minor exposure.

Make sure you shave before using your filter - that's pretty important. In my opinion, you should be wearing a respirator for any welding your doing. Iron oxide and other welding particulates are not good for you. For some fumes, the health effects are up for debate on hazard levels, but I'm not gonna breath the stuff to find out when I'm 60.

If your shop is having you work with galvanized materials, buff the galvanizing off of the weld area (and the backside, too!) to minimize exposure - don't worry about removing the zinc, because the welding arc does that anyway. You'll also get cleaner welds and less likelihood of wormholes caused by zinc oxide gassing out through your puddle. Ask your employer to provide adequate protection. No vent system in the world will allow you to weld that stuff without inhaling even a little of it. Here is some info about welding galvanized materials.

I'm not sure if you can force your employer to provide respirators - you might want to look into OSHA regulations (if in the US, obviously) about it... You might also ask /r/legaladvice or something - maybe there's an attorney there who specializes in industrial health who can help you.

u/ecclectic · 2 pointsr/Welding

Should be, but it depends.

https://www.amazon.com/Drico-MIG-150D-Multifunction-Voltage-Soldering/dp/B01H81KKDU/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1492666630&sr=1-6&refinements=p_36%3A20000-35000 this one pulls 31 amps on 120v

https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Electric-K2185-1-Handy-Welder/dp/B000QFNZ74/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1492666630&sr=1-1&refinements=p_36%3A20000-35000 while this one is fine an a 20 amp circuit.

At the end of the day, it will depend on how much you're going to need it. I've done a lot of on-site work with 110v GMAW machines and a 20amp breaker is the minimum to ensure good performance.

u/nahreddit · 3 pointsr/Welding

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MCUT86/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

(exhaust air is directed down so it doesn't fog up hood)

With

http://www.amazon.com/3M-2097-Particulate-Filter-Organic/dp/B00328IAO0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=04H4DZQFZJ44T79AV2TD

Not gonna provide the best vapor protection but it would help and it fits easily under a hood.

u/theoans · 3 pointsr/Welding

Get a fliphood hood with an auto darkening lens. This is what I use everyday and I would never go back to the other hoods. When I need to grind flip up and full face protection. When I weld flip down and auto darkening

(1). Fibre-Metal by Honeywell Classic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NL1S5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.AhRDbG4Y6KVY




(2). ArcOne T240-10 Tradesman https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WE9XXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UzhRDbB3SG6EQ


Just make sure to use 3 protective lense

(3). Protective lense. " https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QC67KR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yEhRDb8CTXD1B


One for the front when it’s down. And when it’s up, One on the hood to protect your face. And the last one again when it’s up to protect the backside of the auto darkening lense.

Also the auto darkening lense and the protective cover are called 2x4. And 2x4 lense should fit In the hood.

u/OMW · 3 pointsr/Welding

Caiman makes an extra long cuff glove That's supposedly pretty nice. (be warned - they're kind of expensive)

Miller also recently came out with an extra long cuff glove

Or, you could use your existing gloves with a pipe welder's arm pad/sleeve on your left forearm
Spendy pipe pad/sleeve
Cheaper arm pad option

Or if you don't need anything that heavy duty, perhaps just a simple elastic band fit tig welder's sleeve

Or.... If you really want cheap and simple, go to the pet store and buy a small dog collar to cinch the cuffs on your coveralls so they don't slide down when you're doing overhead.

u/JunkmanJim · 2 pointsr/Welding

I would either buy a cheaper welder off Craigslist or a pawn shop or an [Everlast.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTNKKPI/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_40kFAb2PQ2V8W) This is a dual voltage unit and handles heavier material using 110v much better than any brand name 110v only machine I have used. If you do go with a strictly 110 machine, you can preheat with a propane torch to help on thicker material. Once you get started, the heat travels ahead of the weld and you can weld 1/4" material. I wouldn't weld a pressure vessel this way but good enough for bumpers, fences, gates, etc.

u/catfishbilly_ · 7 pointsr/Welding

Pipeliner welding hood

Tillman 850 welding gloves I highly recommend these gloves. The palm is unlined so you have plenty of dexterity to stick, mig, or tig with. The back is insulated to protect you from burning to a crisp.

Wrangler work shirts (get a few of them) I wear these shirts every day for work. Depending on your budget, you may not be able to get a few of these versus one decent welding jacket. If that's the case, I recommend a heavyweight denim jacket or the basic FR green welding jacket.

Safety glasses (get a few of these, as well as a dark pair for cutting)

Steel or composite toe work boots. I'm not going to recommend a pair... everyone is different. I do prefer Carolina boots and Thorogoods, though.

Ear plugs... can be bought at Lowes or any supply store.

That's your basic safety list. You won't need much more than that for school. Hopefully for you, they will provide tools. Otherwise this is a basic list for a welder's bucket:

2 crescent wrenches, 12" (or spud wrench)
Welpers
Chipping hammer
25' tape measure
Torpedo level
Combo or speed square
Vice grips
Channel locks
1 half round bastard file
1 flat file
2 wire brushes (one for carbon, one for stainless)
4.5" angle grinder (or 6" if you want)
Die grinder (optional)

This is, honestly, all you will ever need as a welder. If you end up with a job that does other mechanical shit, you will need more tools like a set of wrenches, ratchet and sockets, various clamps, etc.

I usually work for bigger contractors that will supply all the power tools and typically have a gang box of hand tools that supplies what I don't have or don't want to bring. When I go to work, I bring my 5 gallon bucket (for a seat mostly), and a canvas backpack. In the bucket is that list above. I put shit I need in the canvas bag if I'm going to be moving around between joints so I don't have to lug around a heavy bucket. At any given time there are only a few main tools in my bag. A chipping hammer, a wire brush, a file, a level, combo square, a 4lb hammer, flashlight, and my tungsten holder. It's all you will ever really need if you're just welding.

u/firebyte · 2 pointsr/Welding

Read this.

Then get one of these (ensuring that you get an air-tight seal with the right size, best bet is to go to a hardware store and try a few on, holding the inhalation valves closed (shown here)) with a few sets of these filters, as they will need to be changed regularly.

u/SteelCogs · 2 pointsr/Welding

If you can't go over $1000 look at the AlphaTIG 200X or the PrimeWeld TIG225X for an AC/DC machine. You need AC for aluminum but if you find a good multiprocess AC/DC machine for $1000 you'd be getting a steal. I just don't think there are any out there.

I'm personally just getting into tig welding with no experience and I bought the PrimeWeld machine when it was in stock (it seems to be popular and running out often). So far it's worked for me, most of any issues I've had have all been operator error since I'm new. I did spend another $100 to get a better foot controller for it though, the one that comes with either of the machines I linked are pretty bad, but still usable. I always felt like I had to slam it to get my max amp setting.

Also you asked in another comment about DCEN and DCEP. For aluminum, you need AC because you need to "clean" through the oxide layer before you can make a puddle. Using AC uses a cycle of both DCEN and DCEP as DCEP is what "cleans" through the oxide layer and DCEN is what actually makes the puddle. Inverter machines like the ones I mentioned above you can usually set the balance of this cycle for either more cleaning or more penetration. Too much cleaning (DCEP) and you'll burn up your tungsten, too much penetration (DCEN) and you won't get a nice, clean, uncontaminated puddle and it will all go downhill from there. Hopefully I illustrated that correctly/easy enough to understand.

u/DrunkBeavis · 2 pointsr/Welding

I love my gray Tigerhood. Flip-up lens for a lot cheaper than that pipeliner.

u/nd2fe14b · 1 pointr/Welding

Your coworker was suggesting Welding Metallurgy by Sindo Kou, however I have no idea what type of material would be on the CWE exam.

Good luck to you!

u/dieselphiend · 2 pointsr/Welding

I can't say for certain, because that's my friends hood, but I'm 99% sure most half face respirators will work if you have pancake cartridges. I prefer the 3M 7501 Silicone Half Face.

3M 7500 7502 Series Professional Half Facepiece Respirator

3M 2097 P100 Particulate Filter

u/Kurisu_MakiseSG · 3 pointsr/Welding

The little paper ones? They're better than nothing but I wouldn't say enough.

I use [this one]
(https://www.amazon.ca/Rugged-Comfort-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B00IF7RBS4/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3M+Respiratory+Protection&qid=1569385686&sr=8-5)
with the [pink pancake filters.]
(https://www.amazon.ca/3M-2097-Particulate-Filter/dp/B00328IAO0/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=3M+Respiratory+Protection&qid=1569385840&sr=8-8)

What hood do you have that your respirator doesn't fit? I have an ESAB Sentinel which is quite close fitting to the face and it fits just fine.

u/NorthStarZero · 1 pointr/Welding

Where are you located?

If this http://www.amazon.com/AHP-AlphaTIG-200-Amp-Stick-Welder/dp/B00EL8UQH4 doesn't ship, and you are close to me, I may ask your friend to pick up two...

u/Kitten_Inferno · 2 pointsr/Welding

Here is the setup I use at work



3M Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator 6100/07024(AAD), Respiratory Protection, Small (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JZ1NIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1TrKybJ33KZGZ


3M 2097 P100 Particulate Filter with Organic Vapor Relief, 1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00328IAO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KSrKybG6XV6MN

u/Penguin90125 · 5 pointsr/Welding

That's a pancake hood. It's essentially goggles with a face shield attached, and a shield on the side, it prevents glare from the sun from getting in your eyes, and the shield keeps slag and shit from falling onto your face.

A Pipeliner (also known as the best helmet ever manufactured) is this. It's lightweight, indestructible, paintable, and has the sex appeal of a shirtless Theodore Roosevelt punching a bear. That's a lot of sex appeal.

u/The_Arc_Artisan_ · 2 pointsr/Welding

Fibre-metal Pipeliner coupled with either a glass gold shade 10 or a Tradesman auto-darkening lens for $60

I would suggest starting with the passive, but whatever lens you choose i would still go with the pipeliner because of it's durability and lightweight.

u/genericusername254 · 1 pointr/Welding

You're going to need a copy of this for larger branch connections or saddles. Here is a video on laying out a "branch" for API code.

The Bluebook starts at 3" pipe and goes up. I've made some saddles using 3" measurements on 2 7/8" pipe and it came out okay. Also you might check out this site for 1"-10" templates for saddles.

There's also a Pipefitters Black Book by Frankland and a Pipe Fabricators Blue Book by W.V. Graves, both are available on Amazon. That being said, there is overlap between the three books. I refer to the Bluebook linked above most often.

u/neuralsnafu · 1 pointr/Welding

Lincoln Electric 2X4 C-Series Auto-Darkening Welding Lens Variable Shade 8-13 KP3775-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TMQRTX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tZKODbVFFRHDM

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Welding

No problem. Here is an inexpensive shade 11 welding lens on amazon (shade 10 will not be enough):

https://www.amazon.com/Shade-11-Techniweld-Darkening-Welding/dp/B07MGZ5L9P/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?keywords=2x4+auto+darkening+lens+shade+11&qid=1566572711&s=gateway&sprefix=2x4+auto&sr=8-28

And here is the welding helmet that I use to insert the autodarkening lens into:

https://m.cyberweld.com/jahswehe2.html

I’ve tried basically every welding helmet on the market - expensive ones like the miller and Lincoln - and keep coming back to this reliable and versatile setup. The flip front makes it so you can grind without having to remove your helmet and put on a face shield. Beware of digital welding helmets that say they have a “grind mode” - you will forget to turn grind mode off and then when you go to weld, you will arc flash yourself. Every single time. Don’t waste your money because those helmets stop working after about a year and the clear replacement lenses can be around $5 or more EACH. Ripoff

Oh! Buy yourself a 3m respirator half mask and some P100 pink “pancake” filters. You will be able to focus on your welding better, plus your helmet lens won’t fog up with condensation because the mask diverts your exhale breath downwards and out the bottom of the welding helmet:

Respirator: https://www.amazon.ca/Rugged-Comfort-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B00IF7RBS4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=3m+respirator&qid=1566573219&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Filters: https://www.amazon.ca/3M-2097-Particulate-Filter/dp/B00328IAO0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=p100&qid=1566573291&s=gateway&sr=8-2

You can probably find these items cheaper locally at acklands grainger or somewhere. Don’t bother with a different respirator... this one has a quick release so you can drop the mask down and talk to people without taking off all your gear, which is super annoying!

I found this all out through trial and error and hundreds (maybe thousands) of dollars down the drain.