Best products from r/Windows10

I had a similar issue and bought a usb instead it made a huge improvement in the mic quality. It reduces interference apparently and powers the mic also giving it a boost. That's what I was told anyway , all I know is for a few pounds it was a big boost.

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sorry forgot teh link

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy an SSD and clean install Windows with the media creation tool. I've been refurbing old notebooks with cheap 120GB Kingston solid-state drives to give away, and even though they are complete trash spec wise (i3/4GBDDR4) they run great for basic work and school tasks.

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This is the drive I use for refurbs, it's only $20: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C

> Or if that soul of yours is particularly shiny: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-B75-00001-IntelliMouse-Explorer/dp/B00002JXBI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479259095&sr=8-2&keywords=intellimouse+explorer

Dude. The most comfortable mouse of all time. So good that zowie, razer and steelseries have all copied and iterated on it. I cannot believe Microsoft do not still make this mouse. Even the Habu was great.

This is of course good advice generally, but I'm pretty sure Amazon is an authorized retailer:

Windows 10 Home on Amazon

> I've been looking online for a key but see some for 30-45 dollars on some sketchy looking sites. Amazon has them for a 100 bucks so I can only assume it's sketchy with that big of a price difference.


That is because these "sketchy" sites are not actually selling licenses. Keep in mind that a license is not analogous to a key. Licensing refers to your legal right to use the software. A key is simply the means by which Windows may be activated.


If anyone is selling you a key for $20-60, it is extremely likely that they have simply amassed product keys from volume sources and are profiting off of them. This is not within compliance of any Microsoft licensing terms whatsoever. You can buy a key through these dodgy channels and it will activate Windows just fine most of the time. But in no way, shape, or form did you actually purchase a legitimate license.


Long story short, if you're building a PC, you need to license it properly. This means buying a Windows license from an authorized source. (Directly from Microsoft, Amazon, Newegg, CDWG, etc etc) I recommend buying the Full edition (not OEM) so that you may move the license to any new hardware in the future. OEM licenses are per-machine and non-transferable per the OEM EULA, whereas Full licenses are legally transferable assuming you remove Windows from the previous machine.


https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468778301&sr=8-2&keywords=windows+10

Yup, minimum requirements:

Processor: 1 gigahertz (GHz) or faster processor or SoC.

RAM: 1 gigabyte (GB) for 32-bit or 2 GB for 64-bit.

Hard disk space: 16 GB for 32-bit OS 20 GB for 64-bit OS.

Graphics card: DirectX 9 or later with WDDM 1.0 driver.

Display: 800x600.


HIGHLY recommend an SSD. Even if you’re strapped for cash, something like this is only $18 for a 120GB name brand SSD

Kingston A400 SSD 120GB SATA 3 2.5” Solid State Drive SA400S37/120G - Increase Performance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y3twCbFDCWXX9

Well, if you are looking to purchase a retail copy of Windows 10 then you can shop around various internet sites for deals.

Newegg - Home

Newegg - Pro

Amazon - Home

Amazon - Pro

If you have a valid Windows 7 or 8 key which you won't be using any more you can use that to get a free upgrade to Windows 10 if you can manage to get it installed on your hardware before July 29th. Just skip the step during installation which asks for your key, and enter the old key during activation after the install. You can use the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool to do the install - it needs either a USB thumbdrive or DVD.

Another option is to use a second router that supports wifi bridge linking - then you connect to second router via an ethernet cable.

This is a great little device for this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Universal-Extender-Set-top/dp/B007PTCFFW

Yeah, the one I'm looking at [has NVMe]9https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-PRO-Internal-MZ-V6P512BW/dp/B01LXS4TYB). NVMe is one of the reasons I chose to try an iPhone this time (last four phones ran Android, IDGAF about the brand wars). So yeah I know all about that. ;)

Xeon 1231v3, 16GB DDR3 RAM, GPU is a bit light, it's AMD R9 280. Fallout 4 is the latest game I run and the most demanding and I can play it with settings maxed and get 30-60FPS depending on where I am. I think I might dip into the 20s downtown where everyone takes a hit, though. But if I lower the settings a bit, I can get it over 40. I don't really chase high FPS that much, though if I can get it over 60, that's obviously better than ~30. But I ran Skyrim at 20-30FPS for years on a dual core, so I'm not spoiled.

I built my own computer and this is where I got mine: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019BM7O/ref=twister_B013GWSQJA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Note: To download the program you have to have a credit card, though!! They use it to determine you are ordering from within the United States. Because of different program international distribution laws, I guess. If you read up on it, all digital downloads from Amazon requires a credit card, something I didn't know before first attempting it. :(

From what I read also, this copy of Windows 10 is not an OEM version, so it's possible to uninstall it from the computer you installed it on first, and use the same license to install on another computer.

It used to be $120 for the Home edition, but they increased the price this year.

You can buy a single-use OEM license + DVD (not necessary, but it comes with it.) from Amazon, but changing hardware like the Motherboard in the future might cause it to deactivate. It's not as likely anymore, but there's still a risk.

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/OEM-Windows-Home-64-Bit-1-Pack/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U

old SSD: SanDisk SSD Plus Sata III Internal SSD 120GB

(https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07621PNWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&language=en_GB&psc=1)

new SSD: Samsung EU 860 Evo Internal 500GB

(https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B078WQT6S6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&language=en_GB&psc=1)

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The new one also feels more durable and valuable to the touch because its casing is made out of aluminum. The old one is just a piece of plastic where you have access to the internals because only the top is covered.

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Edit: formulation

It would be better for you to get an SSD. I'm sure you can afford spending 20$ which is all you need for a decent 120gb ssd.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C

It is a desktop, custom built. I'll link to you the products to save you some time.

Motherboard
CPU
GPU
HHD
Power Supply
RAM (2 stick, 16GB total)
Wireless Adapter

StartTech also makes SATA to USB cables that work great and do the same job.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84

Chances are you bought OEM licenses. Those are much cheaper because they are not meant to be transferred to another computer. With an OEM license you're likely to need to buy Windows 10 again in the future when that computer gets replaced.

Retail licenses costs more. The major benefit to retail licenses is they can be transferred to another computer. When the computer gets replaced its license can move over to the new computer. In the long run it can be cheaper.

edit:
OEM Windows 10 Pro on Amazon: $120
Retail Windows 10 Pro on Amazon: $190

It doesn't matter if you use it once a week or 16hours a day.

If everything you do with it is in internet or word/excel/write/sheets document creation you won't get anything from 250gb ssd. Those machines are so old that any faster or slower ssd speed is nullified in awfully slow cpu. I'd say buy cheapest 120gb ssd from respectable manufacturer. There's an example for you https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C

Get a better mouse: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-D58-00026-Intellimouse-Optical-Mouse/dp/B00005TQ08

Or if that soul of yours is particularly shiny: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-B75-00001-IntelliMouse-Explorer/dp/B00002JXBI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479259095&sr=8-2&keywords=intellimouse+explorer

Just look at those Back / Forward buttons. Your thumb could use them all day long, and never get tired.

You could use miracast for 1 monitor and a wireless HDMI dongle for the 2nd monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Display-Adapter-P3Q-00001/dp/B01AZC3J3M/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549559640&sr=1-10&keywords=wireless+HDMI

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Though if you have any way to do it with cables, it's going to be way better.

You can just use an HDMI cable from PC to TV, it will allow you to simply screen share, or use the TV as second monitor.

Or you can buy the MS Wireless Display Adapter to give Miracast functionality to your TV.

https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Display-Adapter-P3Q-00001/dp/B01AZC3J3M

Just get it from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1450803933&sr=8-3&keywords=windows+10

is this the same as this? i want to buy it at staples because I got a coupon

This question is asked often here and this is normal for a mechanical drive. You can do some things to bring it down a little bit but for the most part windows 10 on a mechanical drive has very high disk usage. You can get a SSD for about 30$ or downgrade the OS for a more reasonable disk utilization.

I just found this on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.ca/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019TDJ8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=windows+10+pro&qid=1565891545&s=gateway&sr=8-3

This must be legit, right?

10 - https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465755306&sr=8-1&keywords=windows+10