Best products from r/XTerra

The brighter halogen bulbs work well, they are the simplest plug and play option, are DOT approved, but do not last all that long. IMHO the 2 best options are the SYLVANIA 9007 XtraVision and the SYLVANIA 9007 SilverStar. They achieve their brightness by overdriving the filaments so their longevity is shorter than even the standard bulb.
http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-SilverStar-Performance-Halogen-Headlight/dp/B000M5Y72A/4&keywords=headlight+for+xterra

http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-9007-XtraVision-Halogen-Headlight/dp/B000CKGAV6/

The other option if you want brightness and better longevity go with led bulbs. They are a bit more expensive though. The ones in the link below are plug and play and have good reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/Technology-Headlight-Conversion-Halogen-3000LM/dp/B016D84VIY

I ended up going with the XtraVision bulbs and they have been good so far. Noticeably brighter than stock but not too much. I save the LED bar for when I need to light up the trail and not blind other drivers with my headlights.

>My lenses were a bit foggy so i did polish them with a kit the other weekend which worked great. Look brand new.

Great start!

>Just need better lights.

I agree.

>I was looking at these:

No, for many reasons.

1. Fake reviews:
   
   https://www.fakespot.com/product/rcp-9007-hb5-led-headlight-cree-bulbs-conversion-kits-built-in-canbus-80w-7200lm-white-6-000k-2-year-warranty
   
   
2. Scientists have tested 9 LED bulbs in 3 different headlamps for 27 different combinations of LED bulb+halogen headlamp and found that 27/27 combinations failed basic photometric compliance tests for glare and seeing distance. In other words, all 9 LED bulbs robbed you of much needed seeing distance while glaring other drivers in 3 different headlamps.
   
   https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2019-01-0850/
   
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   The actual upgrade you are looking for are high-performance halogen bulbs. What happens is that stock halogen bulbs are optimized for long-life, so they start out less bright than regular and high-performance halogen bulbs. And then the stock halogens, as they age, lose even more brightness to the point where they could be at like 70% of original light output.
   
   The solution is fresh, high-performance halogen bulbs:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Philips-X-tremeVision-Upgraded-Headlight-Vision/dp/B00U1OLNUG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=9007+bulb+xtreme+vision&qid=1563146506&s=gateway&sr=8-3
   
   Give them a shot. Cheaper than the LEDs and guaranteed to work better. I guarantee these will be brighter than what you have right now.
   
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   If you still feel that you need more lighting, then check back with me and we can figure something out. The cool thing about halogen bulbs is that they get brighter with more voltage applied. I have a relay harness for my cars which connects the bulb directly to the alternator pretty much, so there is minimal voltage loss from the alternator to the headlamp. This boosts brightness significantly.

Ok mobile at the moment do I can't dig too far in but here's some quick results that look like they should work.


[Scosche NN03B Wire Harness to Connect An Aftermarket Stereo Receiver for Select 1995-Up Infiniti/Nissan] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1NvCbF8GSD2Y)


[Metra Electronics 40-NI12 Antenna Cable to Aftermarket Radio Adapter for Select 2007-Up Infiniti/Nissan Vehicles] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PANZ7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t4NvCbTQJXTKT)

The job was simple enough if you're familiar with wiring. Match the functions of the harness that comes with the stereo with the adapter, crimp then together and bolt it all back together.

One thing to note is that there is no ground in the factory wiring. You will need to run one separately. I'd suggest hitting a bolt to the chassis nearby to minimize any ground loops.

I'm sure you can find a good write up over at the nextera forums if you get stuck.

Another note of caution. The two metal retaining clips in the bezel love to scratch the dash. Cover it with a cloth to save the surfaces.

Save yourself the money and get a better tire, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C53COJ4/ref=dp_cerb_2

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Wildpeaks are probably the best bang for your buck in the A/T tire market currently, I'm not sure of your location but if you get snow, they are also winter rated and are great in snow, I've been running mine for almost 2 years now on my X, in central Alberta Canada, great traction in snow, dirt, gravel and mud. AND only cost me about 850 (I worked at the shop) installed, for 33's as well. I likely won't ever switch up from wildpeaks. 50k on them and they still look brand new some how.

The realistic, "not doing moab every day" answer is a set of the next step up in the Bilstein lineup (5100 series), something that's an improvement but not full on "I can feel the size of the gravel in the pavement" level of suspension diva...

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Conveniently, Amazon sells/stocks them... Links:

you'll need two of the Fronts and two of the Rears. apologies, rear of xTerra is THIS model.

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Background: Owner of an 09 xTerra S 4x4 (2010-2014 and 100k+ miles) and current owner of a 12 Pro-4X Frontier (2017 - now, "travel/trip" vehicle, 10k miles?).

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This was my first "upgrade" on the frontier. $340ish plus tax?

Worth it, and wish i'd done them on the xTerra, it's a better handling platform imho...

I don't use a folding J-style rack but I do use J-style racks for my kayaks (2 of them) and they barely fit on the X cross bars. They attach nice and snug.

As for securing the kayaks down, I use the quick straps that came with my racks and make sure to tie them off to prevent slippage.

The farthest I've traveled with this setup is about an hour of highway driving (75 mph).

Edit: The racks I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003V57NUQ/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467757196&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Check out this mattress. Fits perfectly in an xtetta with the seats down and the action packer. And it's super comfortable. It does take up about as much room as a cooler

It is exactly as difficult as replacing your stock alternator. I'd give it a one scratched knuckle rating. Just watch out for the sharp edges and take your time removing the plug connector from the top of the alternator. If you have a socket set with 14, 12, 10mm and a small flat blade screwdriver for working the clip on that stupid plug you should have all the tools you need.

1. Unhook the negative battery cable for safety.
   
2. Start at the plug on top of the alternator, carefully remove that.
   
3. Remove the two wires from the back of the alternator.
   
4. Remove the alternator bracket bolt. That is the one that goes front to back at the bottom of the alternator below the pulley, not the adjuster which goes side to side. (take note or a picture of exactly how the bracket bolt goes through the adjuster widget)
   
5. The mounting bolts are at the top of the alternator, way up at the ears, hard to see at first. One goes in from the front. One goes in from the back. Loosen them both. Push the alternator toward the motor so the belt can come off the alternator pulley. Get the mounting bolts finger loose without pulling them out. Decide which you can turn by hand easiest while holding the alternator up and take out the other one. Then take out the second one. Do not drop the alternator on your head.
   
6. Wiggle the alternator out.
   
7. Fish the new alternator up to where you can get one of the mounting bolts started and get it a couple threads in.
   
8. Start the other mounting bolt.
   
9. Finger tighten those bolts.
   
10. Connect the big fat hot wire, connect the ground wire. (mmm, probably should have made sure you have a ground wire bolt that fits before now)
    
11. Plug the pluggy plug into the plug receptacle on the back of the new alternator.
    
12. Put the bracket bolt back in to place.
    
13. Try and get the old belt to fit over the new pulley. It might go. Watch out that you have the belt under the timing pointer above the crankshaft pulley and not riding on top of it like I did.
    
14. If the belt won't go on you'll need a slightly longer one. To get to the alternator belt you have to remove the other two belts first. There are idler pulleys that are adjusted from the top (motor side of the radiator, first is obvious, second is a bit to passenger side hiding a bit lower) with 14mm sockets. One for each belt. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. It helps to loosen the bolt through the actual pulley a bit.
    
15. Once you have the belt(s) in place, push the alternator by hand away from the motor to tighten belt. Wind the adjuster bolt so that it is snug. Tighten up those mounting bolts you finger tightened earlier. You don't want a lot of play in the alternator belt but too tight is no good either. Start out snug with a little give and adjust later so that is tight enough for the belt not to squeak when the truck starts. (Stop the engine before you try and adjust it, right?).
    
16. Count your tools, make sure nothing is left sitting on or in the motor and hook the battery cable back up.
    
17. Start the truck.
    
    This is the alternator I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY0B2GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 although any 1999-2003 Nissan Quest or Mercury Villager alternator should work.
    
    The plastic fixture where the big fat hot wire goes (under the red rubber cap) is a bit different than the Xterra but if you just tighten the nut on down, everything works out.

To quote another redditor

"It is exactly as difficult as replacing your stock alternator. I'd give it a one scratched knuckle rating. Just watch out for the sharp edges and take your time removing the plug connector from the top of the alternator. If you have a socket set with 14, 12, 10mm and a small flat blade screwdriver for working the clip on that stupid plug you should have all the tools you need.

 1. Unhook the negative battery cable for safety.


 2. Start at the plug on top of the alternator, carefully remove that.

 3. Remove the two wires from the back of the alternator.

 4. Remove the alternator bracket bolt. That is the one that goes front to back at the bottom of the alternator below the pulley, not the adjuster which goes side to side. (take note or a picture of exactly how the bracket bolt goes through the adjuster widget)

 5. The mounting bolts are at the top of the alternator, way up at the ears, hard to see at first. One goes in from the front. One goes in from the back. Loosen them both. Push the alternator toward the motor so the belt can come off the alternator pulley. Get the mounting bolts finger loose without pulling them out. Decide which you can turn by hand easiest while holding the alternator up and take out the other one. Then take out the second one. Do not drop the alternator on your head.

 6. Wiggle the alternator out.

 7. Fish the new alternator up to where you can get one of the mounting bolts started and get it a couple threads in.

 8. Start the other mounting bolt.


 9. Finger tighten those bolts.

 10. Connect the big fat hot wire, connect the ground wire. (mmm, probably should have made sure you have a ground wire bolt that fits before now)

 11. Plug the pluggy plug into the plug receptacle on the back of the new alternator.

 12. Put the bracket bolt back in to place.

 13. Try and get the old belt to fit over the new pulley. It might go. Watch out that you have the belt under the timing pointer above the crankshaft pulley and not riding on top of it like I did.

 14. If the belt won't go on you'll need a slightly longer one. To get to the alternator belt you have to remove the other two belts first. There are idler pulleys that are adjusted from the top (motor side of the radiator, first is obvious, second is a bit to passenger side hiding a bit lower) with 14mm sockets. One for each belt. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. It helps to loosen the bolt through the actual pulley a bit.

 15. Once you have the belt(s) in place, push the alternator by hand away from the motor to tighten belt. Wind the adjuster bolt so that it is snug. Tighten up those mounting bolts you finger tightened earlier. You don't want a lot of play in the alternator belt but too tight is no good either. Start out snug with a little give and adjust later so that is tight enough for the belt not to squeak when the truck starts. (Stop the engine before you try and adjust it, right?).

 16. Count your tools, make sure nothing is left sitting on or in the motor and hook the battery cable back up.

 17. Start the truck.

This is the alternator I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY0B2GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 although any 1999-2003 Nissan Quest or Mercury Villager alternator should work.

The plastic fixture where the big fat hot wire goes (under the red rubber cap) is a bit different than the Xterra but if you just tighten the nut on down, everything works out."

This is a quick and easy mod anyone who plans on putting their X in water over the axles should do. It takes less than 15 minutes and can save your rear diff.

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Also, not taking away business from great supporters like Gorilla and PRG, but you can get the parts to do this mod on Amazon for >$25. Just need the axle vent, a filter and 8' of hose with clamps. While you're at it, buy 2 filters and add one to the front diff vent hose that comes up behind the air box.


https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-263-Rear-Axle-Differential/dp/B00NF1S0LW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rear+axle+vent&qid=1563124009&s=gateway&sr=8-4


https://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-Clear-View-Glass-Filter/dp/B000VSDZIK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=5%2F16+fuel+filter&qid=1563124185&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I use this one I bought off Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X3TRFLJ3ET3A&keywords=bafx+bluetooth+obd2&qid=1563900888&s=gateway&sprefix=bafx+bluertoo%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-3

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Some of the cheaper ones are not compatible with all of the OBD2 protocols, which is probably why the one you got doesn't work with your XTerra, but this one complains to be compatible with all OBD2 vehicles 1996 and newer. I have used it with a 2000 Cavalier, 2002 Mustang, 2005 XTerra, 2007 Camry, 2012 Tacoma, and 2015 Versa successfully so that is most likely true.

bought these lights from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P9NNW43/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 they plug into a usb plug in the 12v outlet by the back hatch, they self adhere and work pretty well. Don't worry too much about the wire clearing the gas strut, just taped the wire to the strut. The longest the wire needs to be to the strut is when the hatch is open,

These deflate them all the way though right?

There are some out there where you can set a stop pressure. https://www.amazon.com/Boulder-Tools-Deflators-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B01M0L7JS2/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tire+deflator&qid=1556478686&s=gateway&sr=8-7 - I don't know if these are any good just showing the style

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I use one of the tools that screws onto the tire and lets you remove the valve to deflate them faster. https://www.amazon.com/Boulder-Tools-Heavy-Rapid-Deflator/dp/B075G1LJQ1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=tire+deflator&qid=1556478686&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 - not this specific one, but I've used a couple of this style chinese copy and they all work great till the o-rings give out after you get a bunch of sand in them.

JUST found this same pic and was about to post it. haha

To any interested I found them on Amazon: (not an AF link)

https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-ActionPacker-Lockable-Storage-1949040/dp/B00002N9F9

This is what I use. I love the quality of the audio.

http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-FlexSMART-Transmitter-Multipoint-Hands-Free/dp/B003PPGOC0

These are what I use: https://www.amazon.com/PIAA-10727-Night-Performance-Halogen/dp/B00EUU789C/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan%7C67&Model=Xterra%7C901&Year=2008%7C2008&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
I tried a set of the 4000K bulbs as well but they did not contrast well on a dark road. These light have a bit of yellow color which shows up better on dark pavement.

These are what I got and I love them
Bilstein 24-187169 5100 Series Rear Shock for Nissan Xterra 4WD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WO9Q1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ZErgxA1LiOcM2

Bilstein 24-187053 5100 Series Front Shock for Nissan Xterra 2WD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WO9P1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_mfMpcZ4asZXVe

As for installation I don't know I did it myself it's fairly easy.

Scosche makes a wiring harness adapter.

Here's a link to Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007KPS0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525792990&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=scosche+xterra+radio+wiring+harness&dpPl=1&dpID=41rDjw%2BkK2L&ref=plSrch

I use an OBD2 Bluetooth reader and the Torque app on my phone to check codes for my 2007. I use this scanner, seems to work well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I had cheaper bluetooth reader before that worked on my 2008 Frontier, but didn't work on my Xterra).