Best products from r/ZombieSurvivalTactics

Going down the list and giving my opnions:

1x Is fine but isn't really a zombie thing. But being organized and clean in general is a good idea for when you need to grab valuables and get out of town quickly.

But the product itself is a little expensive and doesn't help when you need to get out and go. For the same cost and more specific utility with zombies you could have gotten two or three tool boxes with similar utility and organizational ability. The issue remains that such organization of tools and the immediate need for tools might not be there for most.

2x The flashlight is fine but the lack of rechargeable cells, no ability to switch ot a red or blue lenses, and the fact it's a fairly conventional design makes it okay but not great for a top 10 list.

I've been using this: (pen flood light with)[https://www.amazon.com/Cat-CT1000-Pocket-COB-Light/dp/B012BR6D1E/]

The light placement is good for when you need to put it down but still have light, I've clipped it on my body armor and on my shirt or mouth to do some basic work, and the light is strong that I could use clear red tape to avoid damaging night vision and make my light harder to spot by "the enemy" (for me that usually means my way too high speed 2lt).

I've also switch back and forth with a more typical compact flashlight with a USB charger. Mine came with a cap that held other lenses but if you have clear red or blue tape it should work just as well and again that's what I end up doing.

The trick with both is you need to buy rechargeable batteries and have a way to charge them. Personally I have a usb solar charger bank and a solar power battery charger.

3x. I don't like swiss army knives but a multitool is a good thing to have. I just prefer one with pliers and maybe wire cutting capabilities. I tend to just get the cheapest multitool with pliers so...yeah no real input here it's a tool and something that should be disregarded.

4x. I don't know why you're against having a backpack. Being tactical is unnesscary but certain features such as:

Being able to tighten the bag if you aren't carrying a full pack to avoid noise and discomfort while running or imbalance when rucking,

A subdued color pattern,

A chest and waist strap,

And the access to multiple pockets for organization.

These are all very nice qualities and not something that's useless or a bad thing that will get you killed.

5x. Having a water filter at all is a good thing. I don't like the sip and clean systems in general but having a back up life straw with a Sawyer mini pump will work pretty great along with boiling or chemical water treatment.

With the Sawyer you can fill a throwaway bottle with untreated water put the pump on it, push the water through the pump into a pot, and then boil and drink the water pretty easily. So that's my answer for a physical non chemical treatment.

6x. Yeah any type of bino is fine.

7x. I don't know how having cordage is a bad thing but I seemingly use this and duct tape everyday to temporarily fix or tie things down to make stuff a little more secure or organized.

8x. Yeah, I don't think that a card knife is useful. The compass is also garbage and I think you should spend more for a decent knife and compass for mostly practical tool usage rather than combat and stuff.

For a compass I just suggest either a lenstatic if you have a partner and know how to use them. But the simplest to use quickly with a map is a orienteering style compass with the clear body for quick guidance and measurements.

For knives a Morakniv Companion Knife or similar fishing knives are good for a lot of general work and are fairly durable as well as cheap.

Pocket/folding knifes might work but they can be loosened with hard work and generally are a little finicky for my taste. Since the apocalypse has occurred you don't need their concealiability as much as their utility at least in the immediate few days to weeks.

9x. Yeah, no clue what that is and I don't like it. A good multi function tools that can be used as weapons include: hatchets and similar hand axes, hammers of the smaller handy type, pretty much any shovel, and the handles they're mounted on.

10x see above for a response.

11x. While I think it is a good idea to have such tools incase of a rollover, a crash, or similar issue. Having one specifically for zombies doesn't make much sense but there's no harm in having one in a vehicle.

12x. Yeah this is nonsense. Just look to 9x and 10x for stuff to defend yourself with. If you really want a ranged option get a firearm.

13x. This is just a empty bag meant for first aid stuff. Honestly with a bag that size you could have gotten a shitty string bag or similar backpack, ziplock bags, and more medical supplies. Personally I have four fanny packs with medical stuff and all together they cost as much as this one bag and carry just as much supplies.

14x. This is also kinda dumb but can have a use when going on in the wilderness. But likely no one has a detector for helping locate one another.

15x. I prefer ponchos and such for their flexibility in sleeping arrangements that allow me to basically just get up and walk around and pack up by walking away. But to each their own. A good sleeping bag doesn't hurt anyone and is a good idea for people on the move.

16x any lighter that is water and air tight is a good lighter. You can and should carry a back up such as a ferro rod or knowledge on how to use flint with a striker and char cloth to make fire.

17x. This is honestly the most funny one to me. A giant plastic glove to protect the hand from infection is pretty dubious in its ability to do anything without drawing a lot of attention. Personally I suggest just duct tape or the same ziplock bags from earlier.

Ok, well we can start there. This is a relatively easy light to shop for because it really only has to do one, relatively simple thing. It will probably be your most expensive light though, in terms of price, weight, and post apocalyptic energy consumption. But since it’s a light you will use in life or death situations, you get what you pay for.

With a weapon as lightweight as an AR it is possible to use a handheld light in a pinch, but it’s annoying, and you end up giving up some of your weapon support, so a weapon mounted light is a small but significant advantage.

In terms of what to look for, I recommend something that isn’t too powerful. One mistake people make with lights is that they think brighter is always better, which is not the case. On a combat light, a bright light does give you more distance, and also can momentarily make it harder for your attacker to see. The primary trade off is that indoors, these lights will also cause too much splash back, which affects your vision. Since most of your critical fighting, whether against humans or zombies, will be in relatively close quarters, you want to make sure you get a light that’s bright, but not so bright you blind yourself. Brighter lights also tend to suck more power, which often makes them heavier, more likely to die in the middle of a fight, and of course in an off grid situation they will use up more of your limited electrical supply.

Now, what counts as “too bright” does depend on how concentrated the beam is, and different manufacturers measure output differently, but as a general rule of thumb I recommend somewhere in the 200-300 lumen range.

One problem you see with a lot of lights is that manufacturers often add way too many bells and whistles. This appeals to the marketing side of things, but it actually makes a light much more difficult to use under pressure. That’s very bad in a combat light. A good combat light should have two modes, “constant on” and “momentary on.” Those are fairly self explanatory. Any other features are not features, they are bugs. With any combat light, you will use momentary on almost exclusively most of the time, in very short bursts. This is primarily to make it more difficult for a human enemy to pinpoint your location in the dark, and can also help to disrupt their night vision if they are not used to it. But it is useful to be able to lock it into constant on mode in case you need to use the weapon one handed. Ideally, you want both functions to have discrete controls, so each button or switch only does one thing, and you cannot activate one when you mean to activate the other.

Keep in mind that for close quarters fighting, a lot of pistol mounted lights also make excellent rifle lights, and are often much lighter weight, which is important.

I’ll give you a few different options to consider, though there are a lot of great options out there.

Streamlight 69110 TLR-1 Weapon Mount Tactical Flashlight Light - 300 Lumens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JWD16E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_s0eIDbABDFN0G
This is an excellent all around light, and one of the best for the money. It will mount to any sort of rail on a pistol or rifle, takes 2 CR123 batteries (which do come in a rechargeable, though you may lose some power and battery life that way). On a rifle it’s perfectly usable with thumb switches, or if you prefer they sell an optional remote switch setup. These are one of the most common weapon lights used in law enforcement both for rifles and pistols, and I would not hesitate to trust one with my life.

Inforce W-05-1 400 Lumens Gen 2 Multi-Function Weapon Mounted Light, White/Black, XXX-Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW4MEUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_57eIDbFCAHNBM
This is a rifle specific light. They are very simple to use, and very ergonomic, which is important on a weapon mounted light. You need to be able to reach it easily. They have a momentary/constant on modes, but you can also flip a switch that will make it momentary only, which is useful, and they have a physical lock that you can use to prevent accidental discharge when not in use. (Accidental light discharge can be a problem on a rifle light because it will bump against your body/gear). There are several versions of this light, some of which are too bright or have features you don’t need or want, but some of which would work very well for your purposes. I have a version of this light on my own rifle.

SureFire M300 Mini Scout M300 Mini Scout Light w/Z68 Click-Type tailcap pushbutton Switch, Black, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KZD83DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rrfIDbR1Z7JH4 These are a bit pricier than the other options, and tend to be on the heavy side, but they are absolutely bomb proof. Anything Surefire is going to last a lifetime. This model is right on the upper level of the brightness you would want, and it’s a single battery light which saves you some weight on the front of your gun. It takes a single CR123 battery, so rechargeables are an option. You may lose a bit of power, but like I said this is almost too much anyway, so that’s probably fine.

Or, if you want the cadillac option, there’s this one. https://www.surefire.com/m600ib-z68-bk-scout-light.html This is a big, relatively heavy, relatively expensive light, but it does have surefire’s “intellibeam” system, which is one of the few new flashlight technologies that is actually worth having. What it does is sense the amount of light being reflected back at the user, and adjust the intensity of the output automatically. So no matter what you point it at, near or far, you always get as much light as possible without blinding yourself. I have this on my work light, and it’s a game changer. You can use the same light to search a car or a closet that you use to shine across a field, all without requiring any additional thought or input from the user. So far surefire is the only one with something like this, and only on a handful of their lights, but at some point I have no doubt this will be considered an essential feature in a combat light. It’s that good.

This light does use 2 CR123 batteries, which is ok, though you will probably get a very short run time with rechargeables, even by the standards of a tactical light (which all have fairly short run times). However, I strongly suspect that surefire is currently working on a “dual fuel” version of this light, which would get much better performance with rechargeable batteries, and be able to use a rechargeable 18650 battery or CR123 batteries. Because keeping it charged would be a big deal in a zombie situation, it might be worth waiting until they come out with a version that is both “dual fuel” and “intellibeam.” My (handheld) work light has both, and they are both worth having, in my opinion.

Many handheld lights can also be made into a weapon light with the addition of a rail mount. This is a cheap and reliable option, though these lights are often fairly heavy. Also keep in mind that not all handheld lights are designed to withstand recoil so even if you have a very high quality light you want to check before using it as a weapon light.

Depending on which version of the Ruger you have, you will need to either get an MLOK rail section, or you can get a rail mount that attaches to an A2 front sight post, like this. Midwest Industries Tactical Light Mount for Standard Front Sight, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002E6PAHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5hfIDbXM6VMJE I know several people who use these along with a pistol light, and it’s a very functional setup. You can also get similar mounts that attach to the bayonet lug, if you prefer.

How/where to light the mount tends to depend on your personal preferences and shooting style, so there are a million different ways to set it up. You just have to find something that’s easy to use for you.

If you aren’t carrying a pistol, which most people won’t need, then you probably won’t need a handheld combat light, so the weapon light will be your biggest ticket item.

https://www.amazon.com/Knowledge-Rebuild-Civilization-Aftermath-Cataclysm/dp/0143127047 This book is pretty useful, shows the scientific basis for a lot of essential daily things, as well as more general essentials like crop rotation and animal husbandry. couple it with a homesteading book, or the foxfire series, and you'll have a pretty good library for rebuilding civilization

Baseball bat, crowbar, breaker bar, torque wrench, shovel, hammer.

There's very few ranged weapons that aren't "considered weapons" but I can put together a very effective pneumatic "gun" that can run off my air compressor or a bike pump.

Triplines, snares, and deadfall traps would also work incredibly well.

A felled tree swinging with a rope that you can pull back to drop again and again would be great, they wouldn't care that they just saw a couple thousand pounds of wood shatter their friends, they'd walk right into it too.

EDIT: Removing stuff on second thought I don't really want tied to my username.

Have you red Max Brooks zombie survival guide? I swear by it, it depends weather you are doing clean up or travel. 1-4 get the book of amazon or it might be an ebook

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https://www.amazon.com/Zombie-Survival-Guide-Complete-Protection-ebook/dp/B000FBJAOG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543452505&sr=8-3&keywords=max+brooks

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i hope that helps

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he pretty much goes over everything

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-099-FatMax-Functional-Utility/dp/B000FCGS0Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367860480&sr=8-2&keywords=fat+max

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1367860480&sr=8-9&keywords=fat+max

Great weapons, and great tools to have around. The smaller one would probably be best, lighter and shorter so you don't get tired swinging it, and can use it in close quarters.

A woodworking faceshield would be a part of my kit to start if droplet infection is still in play - just to be on the safe side.

It wouldn't take long to know for sure via media or medical sources in the first few weeks of ZA or worst case 1st or 2nd hand experience and make the decision to upgrade or downgrade spatter protection.

I would probably wear cheap safety glasses or goggles to maintain clear vision even if droplet infection was ruled out.

Medical masks/droplet shields, Swat face shield, industrial PAPRs would be on my scavenge list if droplet infection was in.

Don't have much of an opinion on clothing but when it comes to footwear I'd invest in some high grade tactical boots. These are the closest existing model to the ones I (mine are no longer produced but can be found [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Original-S-W-T-WinX2-Waterproof/dp/B00CM6W96I/ref=cts_sh_1_vtp?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2601945442&pf_rd_r=HAMS2VRDYE3W580DVX8K&pd_rd_wg=9f0ae&pf_rd_s=desktop-detail-softlines&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_i=B00CM6W96I&pd_rd_w=MzYch&pf_rd_i=desktop-detail-softlines&pd_rd_r=HAMS2VRDYE3W580DVX8K&_encoding=UTF8)). They are hand down the most comfortable footware I have ever owned. I've straight sprinted in them and not gotten noticeably more fatigued then when in sneakers.

Given the extreme unreliability of all rimfire ammo, it is stupid to trust your life on it.

Also, .22LR has trouble penetrating the ribcage of elderly US presidents (Reagan, specifically), so what chance does it really have with reliably stopping zombies when it does manage to avoid FTF/FTE?

Seriously. Buy several ARs and stockpile .223 and/or 5.56. Get Elzettas for the ARs. Put flashlights with tailswitches in the Elzettas. Buy slings. Ensure the flashlights run on Panasonic 18650 batteries as those are interchangeable with dual CR123 batteries, but have the added option of reliable recharging. If you plan your shopping carefully, you will probably get each weapon completed for less than $550.

• Great AR rifle kit for $299.99
  
  
• Elzetta is $43.95
  
  
• Fenix TK-32 light for $95.95
  
  
• Sling for $31.30
  
  
• 18650 charger for $20.96... not sure if it comes with batteries
  
  Putting all this together is easier than most Lego sets.
  
  Total for known prices is $492.15. At this point just go find some lower receiver that you like - you'll probably spend less than $50 total... unless you wait for the elections, in which case they will be like $300.

Thats the premise of this book, though technically there not zombies. It's a really good book and a unique take,on the subject

http://www.amazon.com/Public-Enemy-Zero-Andrew-Mayne-ebook/dp/B0052ZUXPA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394933976&sr=8-1&keywords=Public+enemy+zero

I think maybe the book "The World without us" might be what yoyr looking for:

www.amazon.com/World-Without-Us-Alan-Weisman/dp/0312427905

Its a really interesting read but can be a bit dry at times. I know one of the "learning channels" did a miniseries based on it, but i can't remember what it was called.

-edit cause i can't type for shit on my phone-

There is at least one book on Amazon that discusses long-term meat storage. I want to buy a copy but I haven't yet. Here it is. I don't have much advice other than buy a fishing pole and learn how to trap fish. That way you can keep them alive in the water so you don't have to worry about storing them.