(Part 2) Best products from r/airbrush

Honestly at that age I'd recommend one of those kits that you clip a marker into an airbrush device, Crayola makes one and so does Copic, and I'm sure other companies do as well (fair warning, Copic markers are spendy, about 8 or 9 dollars for a single marker)

Here's the Crayola one

Crayola Air Marker Sprayer, Marker Art Tool, Turn Markers Into Spray Art, Airbrush Like a Pro, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CIMC8JI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cE-6ybRX58BA6

And here's the Copic one

Copic Air Brush System Kit #3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001398KDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vF-6yb1HP139K


These in general are less expensive and less messy and less complex than a real airbrush system but is good to get a general idea of techniques, using a marker instead of paint that you got to mix to proper consistency and color, easier to clean out and using a foot pump or a can of compressed air rather than a big air compressor which will run a couple hundred bucks on its own.

If she enjoys it and gets the hang of it you can talk with her down the road about upgrading and get an actual airbrush and a mini compressor like this (which is incidentally the one I currently use)

PointZero Mini Portable Airbrush Air Compressor w/ Hose and AC/DC Adaptor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNAGTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fv-6ybXH2JZJG

Best of luck hope that helps

Welcome friend! Airbrush sure is a lot of fun. I don't know your budget but highly suggest getting the best quality kit you can afford. I chose

Iwata Eclipse Hp-Cs Value Set with Hose Cleaner and Paint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00695CY54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A6CjDbF7CC7NV

And it still is a great tool. I got the Ninja compressor. World great. But loud but goes with the territory.

The better the tool, the quicker you learn to paint. Bc you'll know its not the tool but your lack of knowledge causing problems. ☺️

I setup some filtering for my smelly resin 3d printer and I tried a 120mm fan but it wasn't strong enough. Maybe my fan was weak. Then I used a 12v bilge blower that they use on boats with a variable speed control. This is great in terms of air movement but it's noisy. Apparently, this is a good inexpensive option if you want more air movement through your filter (I'm going to switch to one of these soon unless I figure out some way to insulate my bilge blower to make it quiet):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SY5P1K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3NP2ORRCG15VI&psc=1

They have multiple products -- I'm talking about the cheapest one at $26.79 at the moment (4" duct fan, 197 cfm). It would use the 4" dryer duct you mentioned (I'm using that too, works great).

I'm putting a splitter on my system to hook up to a booth/3d print handling/soldering station. I made mine out of foamcore/foam board from Dollar Tree. The portable option looks like and a plastic tub is a good idea too but I wanted something more permanent (have a small table to dedicate to it).

For the output part, if you totally want to get rid of anything, you could send it through one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMBU6

I'm using a similar one (one I bought was a couple bucks less but went out of stock). It completely gets rid of the resin smell so I think it would work well for stinky paints. But for acrylic, I'm sure it's overkill but I'm going to be using it for exactly that too along with my other uses.

To be 100% clear, this is how my setup works:

• air filter/furnace filter (to prevent sucking dust/bigger particles into the system)
  
• 4" flexible dryer duct
  
• duct fan pulling air
  
• 4" flexible dryer duct
  
• active carbon filter getting air pushed into it and exhausting back into the room (I'm in a cold area so don't want to vent outdoors)
  
  To connect the dryer duct, I put some electrical tape around the surface I was connecting to and then used cheap zip ties (had to double them up) to hold the duct on. They have hose clamps too but they seem a bit overkill for our usage.
  

You typically do not want to take apart an airbrush too often because eventually those little threads on the parts (any parts) will get to where they wont thread back and parts that seal will stop making good seals.

That being said, I have an Iwata CR and I still will break it down completely every so often and give it a good cleaning, typically not the tip unless there is some bizarre issue I cannot resolve. Taking it off hasn’t made it ‘stop’ working before unless you do not get it back on correctly; however, it is not something I normally take off to clean.

If it is gunked up with acrylics, I would suggest taking it off and soaking it in some paint thinner - specifically something formulated for acrylic.

Also, if you haven’t already, get you a cheap set of airbrush brushes:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N3IX3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6M3iDbKRWQ4RN

There are numerous Youtube videos showing how to use them as well. After cleaning your airbush you can use these and always get a ton of gunk out. I am not recommending this specific brand BTW. You can find these anywhere, even Harbor Freight for probably half price.

Edit: Couple other things I would like to add:

Make sure your paint is adequately thinned (always use Airbrush flow improver to thin acrylics).

Other thing, keep q-tips handy. If you see some build up on the tip of the nozzle after some spraying it is easy and more effective to use a wet q-tip in some thinner/alcohol/etc to quickly clean off any buildup and safer than your finger.

Awesome. Thanks for the reply. That's what I'm looking for. A few things came in today from Amazon and I had ordered this stuff but it looks like its more for paintings. It also seems super thick.

Mod Podge Super Thick Gloss (8-Ounce), CS11297 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007QNI16E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g5UhDb8WADV6D

For the Alclad Aqua do you mix it with anything or I'd it fine to spray as is?

Okay, that's a broad question you are asking.

First you need a brush. Get a double action. I recommend either the badger patriot 105, or the iwata neo for your first brush.

You need a compressor. I used a cheap one off amazon pretty well until I upgraded to a larger California air tools silent compressor.

You want a moisture trap as well, plus an air hose.

As far as paints go I really like the Vallejo model air and game air paints. The game air paints have very vibrant colors, whereas the model air line is more like real camo colors from WW2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004INERK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452252&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=iwata+neo&dpPl=1&dpID=31GV4HFiqIL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LYHYHEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452308&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=california+silent+compressor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQO8W4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452347&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=iwata+hose&dpPl=1&dpID=41K8ruY-CAL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SAO7QI/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452388&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=1%2F4+to+1%2F8+npt

A good clear coat that can be polished is key in my book. I use this stuff on metal signs all the time with acrylics. It's high quality clear coat for small car parts or touchups. Comes out great.

Spray it on generously, If it's at all cloudy or you get orange peal, you can wet sand and polish with a rubbing compound just like you would a car.

I prefer one thick, wet, heavy coat to a misting and second coat. Easiest way I've found to get it even without orange peal. Just be careful of drips with this method.

I haven't painted a helmet since my youth but I sure wish I knew to use auto clear then. I ruined many paint jobs using Krylon and Rustoleum clear coats. They were always foggy and prone to orange peal.

I kno you can use rusto ready to spray clear coat and there primer works pretty good on plastic an is decently priced just do a decent good cut an buff an I will look good

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-253522-32-Ounce-AutoBody/dp/B0070S7VJ8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1550362287&sr=8-10&keywords=rustoleum+clear+coat

If you don’t have a compressor already go with this kit as a starting point. There are other options of similar kits with more stuff, but this is as basic as I would go.

If you already have a compressor I got this one. There are other kits with different needle sizes for not much more if you want to go to that. For me, I figure if I want a different needle size I’ll be to the point of getting a better airbrush so I went with the single needle.

For paints I like Vallejo game air. The badger air paints are good on paper but on minies they are a bit thin on coverage.

Well, I ended up getting a nail polish rack from amazon that is exactly what I was looking for. Anyone interested, this is what I went with:
https://www.amazon.com/Cq-acrylic-Bottles-Rack-Clear-11-5x9-5x7-5/dp/B06WVN2KJH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539905691&sr=8-1&keywords=Cq+acrylic+48+Bottles&dpID=51jqyEPWJLL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

My mission models paint bottle fit great. Vallejo paints will fix with room. And the wicked paint bottles fit as well. Easy to see the color, not as easy to read the labels as a spice rack, but perfect for a shelf or desktop.

Hey I have just started looking into airbrush and your posts have been very helpful Chief thanks. How often do these coupons come up? Are they sent via email or regular mail via catalogs? No hobby lobby right around me but I could drive 30-50 miles if the coupon made it worth it over Amazon...

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I'm thinking of getting a CS and Smart Jet combo, is this too much for a beginner or something else you would recommend?
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-K-250-External-Valve/dp/B001V6VOZC/ref=sr\_1\_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478649513&sr=8-1&keywords=Iwata+MAC


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This would be an external siphon based single-action type airbrush. The external means the air and paint mix on the outside, siphon based means that it relies on the vacuum created by air flowing over a hole to draw paint up from the bottle and into the air stream, and the single-action means that the trigger only does one job - turn on and off the air. Most brushes seen on this sub are pretty much the exact opposite of this beauty, being internal, gravity based dual action brushes.

Now on to troubleshooting, I see that it has a connection to connect to a gas canister (like this stuff). This stuff is... well not ideal really. They drain pretty quickly and when they do, they wont provide the air flow needed to draw the paint out of the bottle and onto the artwork / figure / whatever it is you're painting. Try using a fresh can.

You'll probably get a better response over at /r/modelmakers or /r/modelcars.

A 30+ year-old airbrush probably isn't too good for a beginner to start with. Depending on your budget, you can get airbrush kits from Amazon for under $100, or go all out for a Paasche, Badger, or Iwata setup for $200 and up.

This is the kit I started with. The brushes are surprisngly well-made, and I haven't had any problems with them, except the big one's plastic handle broke. The compressor isn't that good, but it's good enough to get some experience. Mine won't hold pressure after 2 years, and the regulator sucks, but I've painted some pretty cool models with it.


Again, it all depends on your budget. If you're under $100, check out the Master Airbrush stuff on Amazon - if you have more to spend, look for a compressor with a storage tank like this.

It sounds like you're trying the right things but not getting results.

I don't know if you've solved this problem for yourself in the past two weeks, but your description of your problem does sound like one of two things.

1.) Paint is too thick.

2.) Airbrush is dirty.

I know you say that you've tried dealing with both issues, but this is something that I've heard from others and it just turned out that they were new to the thing and therefor couldn't reasonably expected to be able to solve their own problems right off.

First off, I would recommend not using anything but airbrush-thinned paint to start. The Vallejo model-air should not be a problematic paint to use out of the bottle and if you started with that and didn't get at least reasonable results right off the bat then you could reasonably assume that the paint wasn't the issue. That leaves cleaning.

If I were going to assume your problem was strictly cleaning-based (and 90% of the time it is) my guess would be that the problem is in the tip. It's the hardest part to clean and the part most likely to get dirty in a way that will affect the spray. If I'm having problems that don't seem to be resolving themselves with my normally cleaning I will go at the inside of the tip with a toothpick. If the toothpick is too big to get all of the way in then I will shave it down with a knife to get it to a size that will really get in there and scrape the walls of it. Dipping it in cleaner beforehand can help too (both the tip and the toothpick).

Get yourself some small cleaning brushes too. You will find the extremely helpful in keeping your airbrush free of dry paint.

FWIW, I've had a lot of people come to me with similar problems and told me that their airbrush was "broken." Most recently at this past Gencon. In all cases, without even looking at the airbrush, I will tell them that I'm sure that the airbrush is just dirty. I'll clean the airbrush, make it work, and off they go. At Gencon the guy looked at me skeptically, watched me clean the airbrush (which LOOKED clean, BTW), and then I was able to run paint through it just fine afterwards.

Airbrush maintenance is the single hardest part about using an airbrush. Which is not to say that it's particularly difficult, but you have to do it regularly and understand that even if it doesn't look dirty it doesn't mean that it isn't.

Hard to tell much about this airbrush, they do still make a 100 side feed version, aside from more chromed parts, it might be exactly the same, although best to contact badger directly about parts and servicing if you want to keep and use it.

This kit seems like a good cheap start, haven't used Master airbrush gear before, but the compressor can't be that much different from any other no oil compressor (I started out with an all Iwata kit). Iwata's are really nice to use, and badger's have a warranty you just can't beat...It would be between those two if I was looking at a new airbrush.

Another thing to avoid are chinese knockoff airbrushes that have rubber 'O' rings for the nozzle thread, normally a sign that they have a bad seal or a horrible fit, even the Iwata Neo has it (because Iwata didn't make it, they licensed a chinese company to make them a cheap entry level airbrush, 'O' Rings, 'O' Rings everywhere...Bleh).

I started out with an Iwata Revolution, still used that airbrush after three years, Eclipse are fairly popular as a starting point as well.

Try Don's Airbrush tips he has some reviews of popular models of airbrush and some guides on maintenance and troubleshooting. Also once you find the airbrush you would like to get, find tutorial videos on youtube, and guides on how to take it apart, it is a scary thing to do with something that is totally new to you (it was for me), but you are going to have to do it at some point anyway for a full strip down and clean of the tool.

Something like this?


https://www.amazon.com/Pinkiou-Double-Airbrush-Needles-Temporary/dp/B01G5B5GM4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=airbrush&qid=1567021606&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRTdLWVM4UzkyN0VGJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQyMTk2UDk2OFpDS1NKRUdLJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2NzQzODAzQVBZV1M5NkdIMlVCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Stynylrez. I use it exclusively now, it is wonderful stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-SNR-210-Stynylrez-Polyurethane/dp/B00K3KGWQS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539866416&sr=8-1&keywords=stynylrez+primer

I shoot the black and grey through my HP-CS without thinning. My giant bottle of white is thicker though - I need to thin it to prevent splatter