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Ok, you might want to try your luck in the various vape subs as well and see if anyone has the same rig as you and would be willing to send photos of the wall wart. Pretty sure the FCC mandates that the voltage and amp outputs must be printed on the adapter.

Most 16.8V power supplies range from 1A to 5A. Here's a cheap one right in the middle at 2.5A

https://www.amazon.com/MAXOAK-16-8V-Adapter-Charger-50000mAh/dp/B01F31U71M

Should be fine, 2.5A isn't insane and for the price of that rig (yikes!) it damn well better have some circuit protection built in.

The bigger issue is the plug dimensions and to a lesser extent, the polarity of the plug (though 99.9% of the time the outer contact is ground, and the inner hot)

I don't suppose you have some micrometers handy to measure the power plug hole? Would need the measurement in millimeters. You can measure the depth with a toothpick or something non-marring and non-conductive (just to be on the safe side, though there should be diodes protecting voltage out of the plug receptacle) by bottoming it out and then removing and measuring.

Thank you for the swift reply.
There is some water coming in, but it seems like it is not enough, even though the water pressure from the tap is sufficient.
Could the issue still be with the waterproof system?, or is it definitive the flow meter?

I am kina hoping the issue is with the waterproof system, as the fix seems quite easy to diy.
I am thinking about using this method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw
With this valve: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Frigidaire-154637401-Inlet-Valve/dp/B00DM8KM82#customerReviews

Would that work?
Thanks.

Not only that, but there is increased liability. Part Dc47-00019A can easily be bought and shipped in a day or two. This is the fastest selling element on our truck. We sell 2 of these for every 1 other element acrossed all manufactures. Honestly, this guy sounds like a hack, just trying to save 10 cents on a part with $10 of time.
https://www.amazon.com/Direct-Buy-Supply-HEATING-ELEMENT/dp/B01N9463DW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483750894&sr=8-6&keywords=Dc47-00019A

The door switches are a safety mechanism. If the door is not closed tightly and quick enough, the fuse will blow.

Make sure that your original fuse is not a slow-blow. Microwaves will sometimes use these.

I have replaced these switches and had good luck. I have also replaced these switches and never gotten the microwave to work. They have to close in the correct sequence.

Here is a link to a new switch. Just don’t use the terminal that you do not need.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DYY29L/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_ORd4BbZNBQGBG

Do not waste time getting on this. Black Friday is coming. Microwaves will be cheap if yours does not work.

I watch Home Depot. They always have microwaves left over after Christmas. About February, they get real cheap.

1 - Finding a 12V power adapter should not be hard. The only reason you'll have a hard time is finding one with a plug the same size. (There are adapters that come with multiple tips, they're a little gimmicky but they definitely do work.)

2 - It depends on how confident you are with wiring, but splicing a cable together is pretty straightforward. Heck, if it's not important for the lamp to be unpluggable you could even just open up the lamp and give it a permanent wire hookup.

Hey guys! Question about repairing a broken stove grate! Just bought our first house, and had a surprise when we moved in!


as you can see in the above picture, one of the support pegs is broken. I'm pretty sure the material is cast iron, and I was wondering what type of bonding material would be a) strong enough to support cooking items, and b) resistant enough to heat and hopefully not give off deathly vapors!


I saw this Thermosteel putty (and the JBWeld equivalent) that is supposed to be good to 2400F, but the description is more about filling in pits than providing structural support. Do you think it could hold, or have a different recommendation?

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-18003TRI-ThermoSteel-High-Temp/dp/B000HABA3O

Fascinating. Thank you for the insight. The inner workings of appliances and electric and refrigeration is essentially magic to me.

Can that part be cleaned or repaired in some way or will it need to be replaced?

And am I correct then in assuming that this is the part:
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Kenmore-Refrigerator-Temperature-Control-Thermostat/WP2198202/2299?modelNumber=106.55622500&ss=a4b6d699004-x746865726d6f73746174&mr=1

and using that part number listed (#WP2198202) i found it on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-2198202-Thermostat-for-Refrigerator/dp/B004XLE5DU

Thank you so much for your help.

It can replace a ptc permanently, but you gotta make sure it's indeed the ptc that was the issue. Seems coincidental that it happened while you were cleaning the refrig. Any chance any spray/cleaner stuff got into the refrigerators control?

If the ptc has a black rectangular thing plugged into it (a capacitor), you'll probably want to get a 3-n-1 kit that provides extra terminals to plug the capacitor into. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Supco-URC0410-3-N-1-Capacitor-Refrigerators/dp/B00PM8P4LA

The rectangular capacitor will pull out from the ptc relay (if there is one connected to it)

I think it'll work without the capacitor, but if it's designed to work with it--I'd make sure to get the 3-n-1 that utilizes it.

I went ahead and ordered parts and tested the old ones, new ones, replaced them, and tested ect. a few times now so I am fairly confident in my readings. The only thing is my multimeter is a bit shabby and just happened to be one i found in a tool box of mine over the weekend, which has prompted me to ask for an auto ranging one for christmas from the wife! lol But it does read 4.5v AAs correctly and the few other things i had lying around like a paper clip lol

I think it's having a problem draining, or perhaps there are issues with mineral build-up on the spray arms. My Amana had clogged holes in the spray arms that significantly reduced the efficiency of the unit.

You may want to try some dishwasher cleaner. These help clean and demineralize the inside of the dishwasher.

Honestly, if you have pools of soap in the bottom of the dishwasher, I think it's likely a draining problem. You may need a service man or plumber to look at it.

Also, find the manual (online or in paper) for your dishwasher. Many of these have a screen that can be easily cleaned as well as a cleaning and maintenance procedure. It may be worthwhile to try that before spending any money.

I’m in Los Angeles. After taking another look at my lease, I can’t actually find where it was written, but I’m fairly certain we verbally discussed it. Honestly, rent being as out of control as it is, I’m not gonna fight them on it for fear of having to find another place to live.

Bummer it’s not salvageable but that’s what I suspected. Thanks for the quick reply.

Most places seem to want $200+ for the part but Amazon seems to have it for ~$50.... 75% off seems too good to be true.

We had the same issue with our LG dryer. The rollers and belt needed to be replaced. I ordered this set but you'd have to find a match for your model:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L3LWM3B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8zpVDb6PF6SW6

We watched a few YouTube videos on how to replace both and then spent about an hour getting it done. We cleaned out all the dust and lint while we had it open too. It sounded brand new once we were done. The one thing I'd point out is that there are a few different types of screws you'll be removing. Make sure to number them or something, so you know which type go where when it's time to reinstall. Good luck!

Yes that's the part I suspected in the first place. Since everything else was functional, it was the only piece that could logically cause the damper to close early. I couldn't find any testing methods for the Whirlpool/Kenmore thermistor unfortunately, all the testing guides were for GE ones. Any tips? Or should I drop $30 on a new one and hope for the best?

Also would you recommend against buying from Amazon? http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-2188819-Thermistor/dp/B0156N93FI

Just search for a “ replacement knob”. Lots of generic ones under $10. Won’t look pretty but will work. Amazon, eBay, hardware stores, etc. some appliance stores might have a box of spares sitting around.

Example Tops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HMC1XA/

I don’t like zojirushi customer service, but these are what I meant (and own).

https://www.amazon.com/Zojirushi-CD-WCC40-Boiler-Warmer-Silver/dp/B01LWMWU59?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_11

Great for tea/coffee

Yeah, more or less same price.

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Was thinking of giving this a shot, they have a similar cable on Amazon:

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https://www.amazon.com/Ribbon-Flexible-Raspberry-Module-Camera/dp/B07P8337J7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=flexible+flat+cable&qid=1562457536&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

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Is it worth the try?

Water should flow out of hole pretty quickly,you could have debris in drain. Assuming fresh food section isn't freezing, consider adding heater extension to keep drain from freezing. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-819043-Heat-Probe/dp/B00DM8JPZS

i noticed in your first photo that little piece of copper wire. my guess is that you have that wrapped around your defrost heater.

you can try putting one of these defrost probes in there instead. I always run some 1/4" tubing all the way through also and make sure it pokes out both sides, just to clear our any extra gunk.

In your opinion, do you think something like this would be acceptable?

https://www.amazon.com/Supplying-Demand-Heating-Element-Connecting/dp/B07DX8SQXL

Looks like it's $101.49 on searspartsdirect.com

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I found one that claims to be genuine for $46.85 on Amazon -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00KZMHY70/

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Going to try that!