(Part 2) Best products from r/arduino

> Eight AA batteries in series aren't going to provide anywhere near 3 amps, at any useful amount of volts.
>
> It is useful to note that batteries (and solar cells) are finite current sources. They may show X volts when you check them with a voltmeter, but that is against a huge amount of resistance, that results in almost no current flowing from them. As you draw more current, the voltage that they can deliver drops off rapidly.
>
> So then,,,, your 8 AA batteries in series might put out 3 amps,,,, at .5 volts. Or maybe .25 volts. I don't know what the real figure might be, I'm just guessing here. But they sure aren't going to put out 3 amps @ 16 volts.
>
> The best way to test batteries is using a carbon pile load tester, that allows drawing a LOT of current from the batteries while testing the voltage--so that you can see how much voltage they can maintain even when flowing a significant amount of current.

That's definitely true for alkaline AA batteries, but I suspect NiMH AA batteries can do 3 amps, no problem. I think they max at around 6 amps. I recommend these ones for u/arc_menace's project (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

• New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics
  
• HKJ Review of Charger Panasonic BQ-CC17 - lygte-info.dk
  
  > A nice -dv/dt termination with only a small temperature increase and no trickle charge, this looks very good. [...] The charger is very good at filling the batteries.
  
  You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer. They achieve maximum longevity when you charge any time before they reach 60% depth of discharge (40% remaining capacity). So, if you charge them when they're half discharged (or sooner), that's easy to remember.
  
  High current drains can shorten Eneloop life, so it might help to either double up the batteries in 2 parallel banks to halve the current draw, or just switch to cheaper AA batteries. If you think you won't be maximizing Eneloop life effectively, you can use cheaper AA batteries like these so you don't have to pay Eneloop prices for longevity you can't use:
  
  
• IKEA LADDA 2450 are tough - forgot mine in a switched on RC transmitter for three weeks and they are still fine! : r/AAMasterRace
  
• IKEA LADDA AA NiMH 2450 mAh rechargeable battery 4 pack

You know tbh I received the kit and never saw the booklet mentioned :P In all honesty I'd say you might have to do a little digging around on the internet (and a bit of reading) in order to figure out how everything works. I guess I should have mentioned that in my original comment but one risk associated with the ebay kits that are just an assortment of random parts is a lack of documentation. I'm willing to bet that the official arduino kits are better documented but can't say for sure exactly.

And for your second question, the kits your looking at are great for beginners. They offer a wide assortment of basic parts that can be used to make a HUGE assortment of basic projects (check websites like MAKE.com, the official arduino website, sparkfun, and others for some really fun ideas). However, once you branch off into more specific projects your going to need to start sourcing more specific parts that just aren't offered in basic kits. There are plenty of websites for this such as digikey, mouser, pololu, sparkfun, jameco, to name a few. It'll just depend on the project your working on. Lastly check out this book HERE. The guys at MAKE are extremely helpful with DIY projects and their books are very good IMO. As far as running out of things to do, I really wouldn't worry about that. When it comes to DIY stuff like this the only real limit you have is your imagination, and perhaps your wallet :P

No one taught me how to solder, I just kinda did it. Buy a soldering iron (like I said get one in the $50 range, obviously if you have money to burn a $100-$200 one is going to be 'better'. I use a WLC100 http://www.amazon.ca/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC ) some solder, and start connecting components together. I would also pick up a desoldering tool, I use one of those bulbs but there are better/different types out there.

You can use use a breadboard with wires. That's sorta the recommended way to experiment. I tend to move things to protoboard pretty quickly as I find things get messy quickly and it's easy to disconnect things.

I should say I'm not an expert - I'm actually more of a beginner in the world of electronics, but I thought I would share my experiences of how I got started because the path is not totally clear.

I really wish someone told me that ebay/china was the place to go for components. It's stupid but it's just so much cheaper. (I got burned with sparkfun when I was building a project, $100 of parts, $50 shipping - I wanted it fast and it wasn't that much more - then the kicker $50 in import fees/duty at my door) After that I learned mouser was good, $200 and you get free shipping and duty - ended up ordering lots of random things and lots of things in bulk - need one resistor? Might as well get 1000 :). I recently learned digikey is in canada and does fairly cheap shipping so I tend to order from there now if I NEED something fast.

Ebay is the best though for stuff if you're in no rush though, and totally the best place to get stuff like protoboard, breadboard, jumper wires, resistor packs (assorted resistors) LED's, assorted IC's, etc.

Thank you for the response. Everything you've said makes sense and is quite helpful. What I'm still a bit fuzzy on is the way this acts as a NOT gate. It's clear that it has reversing logic, but based on the schematic, I'm confused where the output gets its power when the input is FALSE. am I correct in my understanding that the difference between TRUE and FALSE (at the output, with the opposite input) is that TRUE is grounded whereas FALSE is not. The Vcc in the case of FALSE is actually provided by the connected device (in my case, relay power)?

Ultimately, I'm looking at QTY48 relays controlled by QTY6 595 shift registers. The relays will switch LED light strands for christmas lights for my boss. (It's great! I get to tinker with the design and implementation, and he foots the bill). I'm going to use external power for both, these relays and the shift registers. At first I was thinking I'd buy a few of these, but after finding this darlington array, wiring in a few relays doesn't seem like that big of a task. Then again, I probably won't get 8 SSR relays for that price. I guess I just want to understand how to build it myself before I buy it off somebody else...

Thanks again for taking the time to help me out!

By relay boards, I'm assuming you're talking about a relay board off of Amazon like this one? I'd actually recommend that relay over a 12V relay simply because this will save you from having to do voltage conversions. Keep in mind that the relay board and your controlled device can operate on different voltages. I have a Raspberry Pi with this board that controlls various aspects of a 12V 3D printer. This board is especially advantageous as it is already wired to interface with the Arduino directly, just give the board GND, +5V, and a digital signal pin. Be aware that this board uses inverted signalling, which means that the relays are "ON" by default, or when the I/O pin is 0(low), and turn "OFF" when the I/O pin is 1(high).

A relay consists of two parts: A coil that is energized or de-energized according to the input power on the I/O pin, and a switch of some sort. These particular relays have single pole double throw switches which means this will allow you to switch one flow of power (single pole) to one of two states (position 1, or position 2).

Relay pins are usually designated with three values "NC" (for Normally Closed), "NO" (for Normally Open), and "C" (for Common) and are determined by the switch's contacts at rest (the relay is not energized). If you put power to the C pin and put your load on NC, when the relay is energized, that connection will be opened and will turn your load off. The inverse is true if you put your power on the C pin and you put your load on the NO pin, the relay will energize and the connection will be closed, turning your load on.

In your application, I would imagine that using the relays to control +12V to your solenoid valves would be a good use of the board because it's already wired up with the correct I/O protection and isolation that you'd have to be worried about if you attempted to drive the solenoid valves directly from the Arduino.

Remember the inverted thing? Well, you could do one of two things with your code. Either write 1's to each of the I/O pins you're using on the relay board to turn off the relays, or you could use the NC pins to wire to your solenoids. Each has their pros and cons:

If you write 1's to the relay board as one of the first steps in your program, there's a chance a little bit of whatever you're controlling with the valves would drip out when the arduino is restarted/reset. If you use the NC pins to your relay board, your relays would always be engaged until they are needed which might cause extra wear. If the relay were to fail and the switch goes to "rest", the relay would direct your solenoid valves to open causing a significant spill. You're going to have to figure out which is right for you.

Thank you very much, it means a lot.

when it comes to programming I know a bit of java and have experience with processing, I'm not worried about the programming side of things, I believe I can work that out.

when it comes to electronics I also have some experience, I did this a while ago Custom car horn and some other project but nothing with Arduino.

Creating an app seems like a bigger task than doing this, I enjoy learning new things and I need a project to keep my mind busy for a couple of days.

Since I made this post I found a few things but I yet don't know what could work/be the best solution:

This is the epaper.

And this are some boards I believe could work:

Arduino pro mini I believe I also need this to use it but I'm not sure FTDI?.

I also saw a video of someone using just this to drive the e-paper but idk ESP8266.

do you know if any of this could work, which one is the best and if so how can I pug a speaker into it?.

assuming you have all the fundamental physic, you can start with the textbook from allaboutcircuits's textbook. A introduction to electronic book. It is about 2000 pages covering all basics of electronics. I think it is a great read and easy to understand, written for beginners.


After that you should read Make:AVR programming. It is quite enjoyable read and I read it in 2 sitting. A computer engineering book specifically targeting microcontroller. And as the name imply, it is about 8 bit AVR which is easily the most popular arduino variant. It covers a lot of detail on microcontroller basics and underlying electronic concept and working principles.

To supplement the above book, read a atmel datasheet on one of their microcontroller (atmega328 is a good choice).


For optional knowledge you can try Make's Encyclopedia Of Electronic Components It basically covers all electronic components and introduce you to it. I didn't like too much because you cant read it as a book but should use it as a reference to a particular component you are interested it. It is a great way to broaden your scope on what components is available to you.


Then for the advanced stuff you can read the The Art of Electronics By many it is consider the holy grail of electronic textbook. But I think it is difficult to read without an formal EE education.

> Edit: The microcontroller will not be controlling the afr and other engine systems. It will only be controlling whether the car is in eco mode or sport mode effectively.

Oh, well, that changes the whole thing!

In that case, yeah a simple tablet running a custom python program for the GUI will suffice, when paired with an arduino. Windows/Linux/Android all have the password login that you're looking for.

You'll still need an Arduino for the switching though, and some sort of either relay board or transistor array to actually flip switches. Arduino's are too low-power for that on their own. I'd be willing to bet that 8 channels is all you'd really need (for controlling the lights, and power to the ECU for the killswitch).

It'd depend on your current fueling setup if an arduino will push enough power to switch the ECU, but there's a pretty good chance that it will suffice on it's own without using a relay channel.

This is all similar to a project I've got right now. It's a Pi datalogger that uses an Arduino to read TPS values (along with a GPS chip for speed/position), and then a python program to display it live-time and do the actual save-to-file and display-output stuff.

I've gone through about a half a dozen of the $5-$15 radio shack irons before I finally decided to spend the money on a nice one. I had no idea what I was missing!

There are a few types. The cheapest one is just a hot pencil. You plug it in and it gets hot. It's not adjustable at all - it just gets up to whatever level of power it draws, regardless of the work it's doing. Typically they cycle between not-hot-enough and way-too-hot for whatever the job is. :-)

The second-cheapest kind is the same thing, but with a little selector switch, so you can switch between low and high. I think one of mine was 5W/15W. Same as before - it's a power level, not a temperature.

Third type is the same thing, but with more adjustments. You can vary the heat more accurately, but it's still only by power level, not actual temperature.

The good kind is the kind that measures its own temperature and tries to maintain it. You can turn the dial to the temperature you want, and no matter what the work is, it will heat up as needed to maintain that temperature.

I have the WESD51 (Digital display, adjustable temperature). It was expensive, but I got a good deal on it (only $10 or so more than the analog version). I was really sold on the temperature controls, and it makes a huge difference.

You'll have to carefully read specs to see if "Adjustable" means adjustable POWER or adjustable TEMPERATURE. Some irons will even say that they are adjustable temperature, but really they are just a hot-cold knob that adjusts power.

I shouldn't recommend a specific iron, since the only ones I've used are the terrible $5 ones and the WESD51, but I've heard good things about the WCL100. It seems to have decent reviews. If you can't justify the $80+ for a temperature-controlled iron like the WES51 or WESD51, look into this one, since it's only $40.

EDIT: I take that back! I should have listened to myself and NOT recommended it. As soon as I read the reviews I discovered that you can get a constant-temperature iron for around the same price! Something like This 850F or this 750F. In short - do your research! Temperature controlled is key!

ANOTHER EDIT: The work I'm doing is generally through-hole components and similar small electronics. I leave the temperature dial at around 700F most of the time. So if $80 for a true adjustable-temperature soldering station is too much to swallow, save money by getting a constant-temperature iron at the temperature you want, instead of getting a shitty adjustable-wattage iron.

Arduino + Adafruit Neopixels worked well for me.
I run two LED strips internally powered by my PSU (molex 5v & ground).

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I used this plugin which syncs my LED strips with my razer gear. https://github.com/CalcProgrammer1/KeyboardVisualizer

​

Assuming a 10x10 room, that's 40ft or ~12 meters of LED strips. Which means its going to take significant amperage to drive them. ~2amps per meter == 24amps


Something like this would work... ideally in an enclosure where you could put the arduino as well.

https://www.amazon.com/LETOUR-Supply-Converter-Adapter-Lighting/dp/B01HJA3OUG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=5v+power+supply&qid=1556942056&s=gateway&sr=8-5


Lastly, for the actual strips -- these are the ones I'm referring to:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1460?length=5


You can buy in 1-5M increments from Adafruit.


Regarding the strips, its also probably important to mention that you need individually addressable LEDs which have 3 connections: data-in, power and ground -- rather than the much cheaper and more common RGB strips with 4 connections: power, red, green and blue.


Hope that's helpful.


(P.S. the guy that wrote the keyboard visualizer plugin has a tutorial on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Hs6YfM7MD8 )

I have a larger version of the one you're looking at. I love it. I use it to store my electronics and quadcopter stuff. It is not too big at all, and you will absolutely grow into it as things progress. I used to have lots of empty space but now it's basically totally filled with awesome electronics goodness!

The simplest route is to use a gearmotor with a higher rated speed than you need and control the motor speed by PWM.

This will not get you nice, super-accurate feedback control, but it will likely be close enough. I did a variation of this to spin a patient sample/reagent mix on one of the medical devices I worked on. Mix speed at that point wasn't critical as long as it was within a certain zone.

You could certainly use a stepper motor for this as skinwill mentioned, but I feel that a DC gearmotor (and a motor driver such as a TB6612) is simpler. Something like this should have far more torque than you will need: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-550RPM-Electric-Reduction-Centric/dp/B01KTZXZDE?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_8


A Nano is fine: it's my go-to Arduino board since it's small and easy to mount.

This is an excellent summary. The only things I would add is that I like working with the debug shield, as it plugs directly onto the Uno and allows you to access the various IO pins easily. I have a small breadboard which I've attached to my debug shield with double sided tape and then plug my smaller components into the breadboard.

Longer term (once you're comfortable with the basics) you can do things like mount a bluetooth module or other small board onto the breadboard, which is again easy to connect to the shield IO pins.

On the tutorial front, I'll probably show my age by saying I actually like reading real books (gasp!). I find Simon Monk has a quite accessible style and he's done a couple of Arduino-related titles.

Details are here:

Arduino Debug Sheild example: ->

Programming Arduino - Getting Started with Sketches: ->

30 Arduino Projects for the Evil Genius (second edition): ->

And for when you really get going and want to control your Arduino with your Android smart phone:

Arduino + Android Projects for the Evil Genius: ->

I bought this elegoo electronics fun kit a while back and it's been good to me. The breadboard powersupply is very useful, and it offers lots of fun components.

Wow great idea, I didn't realise tackle boxes were perfect for this. Here's a cheap one for UK folks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Storage-Adjustable-Compartment-Box-Lunar/dp/B00RVFR58C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466155544&sr=8-5&keywords=tackle+box

There's a whole world of stuff, it really depends on what kind of thing he finds exciting.

Here are two ideas of things I think are really cool and would make a fun birthday presents for an Arduino fan.

Little OLED display

https://www.amazon.com/Heltec-Automation-HTDS-WI96-0-96inch-comminication/dp/B0742BJPNF/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1543406669&sr=8-29&keywords=oled+display

Basically an Arduino with built in WiFi ( and a lot more features )

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-ESP-WROOM-32-Development-Microcontroller-Integrated/dp/B0718T232Z/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543406789&sr=1-3&keywords=esp32

For learning to program the Arduino, I HIGHLY recommend Simon Monk's : Programming Arduino, Getting Started with Sketches books.


For the electronics side, his Electronics Cookbook: Arduino and Raspberry Pi is also great.


Jeremy Blum's : Exploring Arduino is also very nice.

I got the elegoo super starter kit. It has tons of great add-ons. I think there's a kit with just sensors too. Search elegoo on Amazon.

EDIT:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MG49ZQ5/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493525142&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=elegoo&dpPl=1&dpID=61y%2BI7tQbyL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D8KOZF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493525142&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=elegoo&dpPl=1&dpID=615S0N50XHL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ERPEMAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1493525291&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=arduino+kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXMMDZI/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1493525291&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=arduino+kit

Already answered a similar comment with some questions so I'll just copy and paste them for you to make it easier.

Thanks for the recommendations. So I plan on buying these two items:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQKC0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AWQBCGWISS7BL&psc=1

But the guy above said I need a 24V supply. They seem to vary wildly and I have no clue what I need, like I said I'm very new and this kit is my only experience. Should I get this?

https://www.amazon.com/Excelity%C2%AE-Charger-Supply-Switching-Adapter/dp/B01GGAELKC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=24v+power+supply+arduino&qid=1555342594&s=gateway&sr=8-5#customerReviews

or would something smaller like this work just as well?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JM6SWT/ref=psdc_10967101_t1_B01GGAELKC#customerReviews

And lastly will I need to order any other parts or take anything else into consideration for this new stronger power supply?

How is the servo motor related to the power setting on the fan? Maybe you have a system where it does the switching, but anyway I just amazon searched "arduino wireless" and this is what I got:

I actually bought these, haven't used em yet.

Wifi Sheild

Bluetooth

I think it should be formatted right. For me, ardiuno has so much stuff, equipment is the easy stuff, programming gets tough lol.

This is definitely the one I would recommend. It comes with tons of parts and tons of tutorials in the software. I love mine.

I’ve never tried a TS100, so maybe it’s great, but just beware that buying cheap might just translate to buying twice (this translates to a lot of things in life).

I originally bought a handheld soldering iron made by Weller, a name brand, and could never get the hang of soldering. I thought it was just a skill I couldn’t pick up for years until I tried a Hakko (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M) soldering station, and it was so dang easy!

In trying to save money, I only caused myself frustration, and I had to buy twice instead of once. A good soldering station is more than just a hobbyist item, it’s a genuinely useful tool to have. You can fix headphones, power cables, and do all kinds of things that will save you money.

So, sorry to contradict you OP, but from experience, I recommend investing in the right tool the first time.

Edit: plus the Hakko isn’t terribly expensive itself, at $100

I'm just planning on starting with a couple of books that are out there... starting with the real basics.

Getting Started with Arduino
30 projects for the Evil Genius
Arduino Bots and Gadgets

I plan on just getting through 3-4 books - do most of the tutorials I can find - using the books to build up the amount of materials in my collection - and go from there. If you are JUST starting - I don't think you can go wrong just looking on amazon for a few books and going through them completely.

Here is the BASIC starting book:

Getting Started


Here are the electronics for it

So for $20.77 you can get both - they qualify for super saver shipping - so you'll need like just over $4 to get the free shipping... might I recommend: THESE :)

I would use this stepper motor:
STEPPERONLINE Nema 17 Stepper Motor Bipolar 2A 59Ncm(84oz.in) 48mm Body 4-lead W/ 1m Cable and Connector compatible with 3D Printer/CNC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PNEQKC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-9iTCb0Y9Z8Z1

It will easily be able to move a pair of scissors with enough strength and be able to do it quickly. This motor is extremely versatile and once you’re done with this project you’ll be able to use it for other cool projects as well. I’m using the DRV8825 motor control:
https://www.pololu.com/product/2132

For kids that age, I would start with blinking LEDs, or maybe reading in from simple sensors, like photoresistors or thermometers. I had gotten a friend a beginner's arduino kit for about $30 and it came with a bunch of neat little pieces and enough to get started
Edit: Here's the kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016D5KUHS/
It does come with the Arduino also

i would use a plain old relay.

something like this and then like you said, heat if too low, fan if too high. i prefer digital temp probes like the ds18b20. It comes in a nice water proof package so you can spill beer (or wine?) on it without worry.

I agree that a servo would be the best option. But a servo can only rotate 180° so if you need it to rotate more you have to go with a geared down Dc motor.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Reduction-Electric-Gearbox-Centric/dp/B01KTZXZDE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1491417991&sr=8-6&keywords=dc+motor

https://www.amazon.co.uk/0-06A-5Kg-cm-Electric-Reducing-Geared/dp/B00977HK2S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1491417991&sr=8-7&keywords=dc+motor Or a stepper motor.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HALJIA-4-Phase-Stepper-ULN2003-Arduino/dp/B01DM8N9HW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1491418126&sr=8-7&keywords=stepper+motor This one even comes with a h bridge.

Yep as soon as I saw 75-100 my mind went straight to my Haako station and what a difference it made to my ability to solder having a real nice station:

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543381467&sr=8-2&keywords=haako

Getting Started with Arduino: A great little book written by one of the founders of the Arduino project. Concise & informative.

And, if you want to get into more complex electronic circuitry, you're going to want to get something like:

Getting Started in Electronics: All about electronics and how they work, written by one of the most bad-ass engineers that ever existed.

This is a lot easier than I thought. The relays I'm controlling are GE RR-7 relays which maintain their state on or off. So all I have to do is send a quick 24vac pulse to the on/off side to set it. I think I'd tear apart the kitchen panel for light control... there I would have access to the bundle of 12 on/off pairs and 24vac common to put the relays. These Sainsmart relay modules look like they will work nicely.

I've used a 12V power supply for a motorized curtain project. Something like this should suffice depending on your motor (though if you're using a motor that draws too much current for that power supply it's probably way overpowered). You can run the arduino off of it too, just run the 12V to Vin and ground to ground. You could also use something like this to control the motor, might be easier than making a circuit out of transistors.

Fishing tackle box.

Sounds kinda odd at first, but they typically have different sized compartments which is great for the big and small stuff. I can keep all my switches, transistors, and tools all in one location.

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https://www.amazon.com/Plano-1374-Rack-System-Tackle/dp/B000E3FKTO/ref=pd_sbs_60_1/134-8589510-2795510?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000E3FKTO&pd_rd_r=77dd8b06-a7f3-11e9-888e-11c74a3a8f49&pd_rd_w=1n6mz&pd_rd_wg=GCaWi&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=JHRR9D5NZA0WQXPNZYKG&psc=1&refRID=JHRR9D5NZA0WQXPNZYKG

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https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Stowaway-Fishing-Storage-Premium/dp/B07THBZGV4?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_3409251_6&pf_rd_p=00e7c78c-c05c-501d-98bd-599d77c8068f&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=3409251&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=018173T14CKMZDBPPEED&pf_rd_r=018173T14CKMZDBPPEED&pf_rd_p=00e7c78c-c05c-501d-98bd-599d77c8068f

I would think it's best to power the motors with a separate power supply from the Arduino power since the motors will draw a lot of current. Instead of powering the motors from the onboard 5v supply, run a separate supply through either a relay module or a motor controller board. Like these: relay, motor driver.

I’m looking around at different components and I have a few more questions...

1. Is there something built into the CC3D that allows support for wireless control? (What about an xbox controller?)
   
   
2. If I want to possibly run omni directional do I need some special motor controller or motor or should I be fine?
   
   Here are the pieces I’m considering (not including the battery or CC3D) also, I am only using 2 of the 4 omnis if I use them.
   
   DFRobot MDV 2x2A Arduino DC Motor Controller (L298N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HJ4VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nk48Bb5NJWNSK
   
   uxcell 12V DC 550RPM Gear Motor Electric Micro Speed Reduction Geared Motor Centric Output Shaft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KTZXZDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zw48BbQ8ZB4F0
   
   4 x Omni Wheels UniHobby 38mm 1.5inch Double Plastic Omni Wheel with 4mm mounting couplings for Arduino Robot Platforms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M24F2FJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tx48BbASA49RJ

Thank you and sorry for the late response.

Is this an example of what you mean?

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-ESP-WROOM-32-Development-Microcontroller-Integrated/dp/B0718T232Z/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=esp32&qid=1574788418&sr=8-6

I read reviews that there are many issues getting it to work with the Arduino IDE (although I'd want to use Visual Studio or Visual Studio Code). Also, forgive me if this is a stupid question - I'm more of a server-side developer - but I would be able to program it with C++, right?

Thanks for your time.

I was in a similar situation a little while ago, and I decided to learn to program AVRs directly in C. I bought this book, and I think it's a really good resource.

https://www.amazon.com/AVR-Programming-Learning-Software-Hardware/dp/1449355781/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504786998&sr=8-1&keywords=make+programming+avr

On a Mac, you can use any text editor you like, then flash the code to the AVR from the terminal.

AVRs are really cheap by the way! Here on Digikey, you can get them for $2 each.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/microchip-technology/ATMEGA328-PU/ATMEGA328-PU-ND/2271026

Thanks, you're right actually. Since my question is safety related, it's more than reasonable to be precise.

I meant this one

These guys are very easy to use and only require 4 connections - 5v, GND, tx, rcv.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093XAV4U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a HC-06 which means you don't have to jump through hoops to run AT commands - just connect it to a USB-serial converter and open up a terminal (like Tera Term) then run the AT commands to set the BAUD rate.


If you can find the HC-05 they are more flexible and configurable but you have to hook them up to an arduino and connect the KEY/WAKE/EN pin to 3.3v and load the serialloop sketch to run AT commands to set the BAUD rate.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JP05S6C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


There are tutorials about how to use the HC-05 to make your own Bluetooth shield. You can't really use the HC-06 to make a true Bloetooth shield as there is no way to have it auto-reset the arduino when you upload a sketch but you can alway push the reset button to upload. In your case, you probably don't want the board to reset every time you connect anyway so just use the HC-06.

I received this for Christmas: http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Android-Projects-Evil-Genius/dp/007177596X

It details some pretty cool projects you can control from your phone.

I agree with the answers already given by others:

• Get a temperature controlled one like the Hakko.
  
  
• For problematic surfaces, use a Flux Pen. They're magic. Solder will stick to wherever you apply this liquid.
  
  
• Do not use lead free solder, they're a little harder to work with.

Yep - for a "weight trigger" look into "Load Cells". For "sending a signal to a battery", you probably want a relay to switch the battery voltage to something else.

For the "magnetic lock", that depends on what you mean - maglocks are those big bars on commercial doors that hold doors closed (these have to be powered all the time to keep the door "locked"). If you want something simple like a physical lock that you can open with electricity, look into a "lock-style solenoid"

Thanks!

Would it be possible to use these motors/drivers with the NodeMCU?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CP18J4A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2WWHQ25ENKVJ1

"Elegoo 5 sets 28BYJ-48 ULN2003 5V Stepper Motor + ULN2003 Driver Board for Arduino
"

I was thinking about getting the NodeMCU, that motor pack, and this conglomeration of parts to get started:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERPEMAC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2WWHQ25ENKVJ1

What do you think?

I've done some research, your led strip should draw about 60W at full brightness. I suggest you use a psu like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HJA3OUG

I'm happy with this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/

In between cheap and expensive. I did need to buy a thinner (sharper?) tip for soldering small electronic stuff.

For the bluetooth connection I used this module: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093XAV4U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


For the app I used Mit app inventor. Fantastic piece of software for making simple apps.

Hello, and thanks for the info!

I want to make something that moves and can keep a kitten busy. Either something that rolls around the floor or a fishing pole/crane contraption that responds to a bite.
I do not have a multimeter. I have a weller WLC100 40 watt. https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC
As far as components go, I have only junk electronics.

I bought a couple kits on Amazon that come with PDF manuals on CD. Things like this. I got this book which really helped me understand sketches instead of just modifying other people's code.

I got into arduino because I had these two kits:

https://www.amazon.com/Make-Electronics-Components-Pack-1/dp/B00T0UCLIK/ref=sr_1_2

https://www.amazon.com/Make-Electronics-Components-Pack-2/dp/B00T0UCLF8/ref=sr_1_3

Which are meant to go with this book (although I think they might be meant for the first edition of the book). It's awesome, this guy explains how most basic components work as he guides you through several projects.

Finally, go to your local Radio Shacks today and get some components on the cheap. Look for resistor packs, LEDs, capacitors, toggles (switches, buttons, etc.), battery holders, hookup wire, heat shrink tubing, logic chips, timer chips, transistor packs, DIP sockets, PCB, project boxes, any arduino boards, motors, servos, solder, tools (like precision screwdrivers, soldering irons and accessories, IC extractors, wire cutters/strippers). If you get into this hobby, you might regret missing this clearance sale.

meter

test lead kit for meter is helpful too

40 watt soldering iron

keep in mind these are basic versions.

You can look in to these relay modules they are cheap and easy to use. As for your EM interference on you previous project. Did you switch the relay with an output of the Arduino ? Because relay's are using around 50mA when switched while an output can only provide 20mA. The Arduino resets as a result.

Okay so I have

Bluetooth USB

Bluetooth arduino module

In my amazon cart. This would be all I need to make a serial connection between my laptop and arduino right?

I found this book to be very helpful, specifically with the programming.

Programming Arduino: Getting Started with Sketches, Second Edition (Tab) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1259641635/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_JiLpNCgexyZf6

Depending on your needs, you could get an FTDI adapter instead. I personally like the ESP12e and esp8266 huzzah feather.

So you're thinking of something like this?

Use the relays to electronically close the circuit?

A couple more:

https://smile.amazon.com/Kuman-Project-Complete-Starter-breadboard/dp/B016D5KUHS/ref=sr_1_1 (contains UNO R3)

https://smile.amazon.com/SunFounder-Modules-Sensor-Raspberry-Extension/dp/B014PF05ZA/ref=sr_1_5

No opinion on their respective quality or value - just passing along the links.

I recommend Getting Started With Arduino, it is by one of the creators on the original Arduino. It aims at someone with no programming/electronics experience and breaks down the sketches of simple programs one line at a time.

Although it only covers the basics, it is very short and can be read very quickly. I would read that as a quick introduction and then go onto using the arduino cookbook, which can be used for reference for specific projects.

I really wouldn't worry about relays failing. You aren't talking about tons of cycles or fast cycles, high amperage, or whatever. Using a SSR would be fine for sure, I made a PID to control a freezer ~10-15A draw using a 40A SSR that has run day and night for years without failure.
Here's one from amazon that I have used.

https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Channel-Optocoupler-Expansion-Raspberry/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494422744&sr=8-5&keywords=arduino+relay

im using this one http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transceiver-Module/dp/B0093XAV4U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394605278&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino+bluetooth with my arduino and i got sample code on github if ud like.

In this case you're mostly buying the books and not getting that much hardware. In particular that kit seems to skimp on some of the small cheap components like resistors.

For about the same money you could get these:

Programming Arduino: Getting Started with Sketches, Second Edition (Tab) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1259641635/

Elegoo Mega 2560 Project The Most Complete Ultimate Starter Kit w/ TUTORIAL, MEGA 2560 controller board, LCD1602, Servo, Stepper Motor for Arduino Mega2560 UNO Nano https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWNUUUA/

Total: $70.19

Do keep in mind though shelling out for a good soldering iron and some very thin solder will make a huge difference in your work. A good roll of solder will run you $40 and a good iron is gonna run at about $100. But damn is it worth it over the cheap ones...

Just something to consider if you get into this hobby...

You'd use a relay board like this hooked up to some electrical outlets. The relays themselves are activated by a 5v signal from the Arduino, those boards are set up to hook directly to the Arduino output pins with the isolation portion already set up. You run 110v in to those screw terminals and the outputs to however many outlets you need. Keep in mind each relay can only support 10 amps on the board I linked to, if your lights are drawing more current than that you'll need to use bigger relays.

Ah! Then you need an FTDI programmer between them.

They’re about $6, less on Banggood or whatever. Since I suspect you’ll want one before March, you can order this one off Amazon, if you’re in the US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_s5pGAb7PD65VG

The Pro Mini doesn’t have any USB capabilities. On the other hand, the lack of USB makes them cheaper and, where it matters, lighter. You can use a single programmer for all your Pro Minis.

Then you probably do need the USB driver for the board. This Amazon listing for Kuman Uno has a video at the bottom from a buyer named Mikey who says, "Took me about 5 minutes to setup the drivers for the clone board." I would watch that video, and if it doesn't say where he got the drivers ask him on his YouTube page.

I've cheaped out before. They never last. They make shit solder joints. There are a lot of things in life you can and should half-ass. Soldering is not one of them.

I have a Hakko FX888D and love it. Got it a year or so ago and haven't looked back.

Don't try to connect the Arduino directly to those VFD inputs. Instead, use a 5V logic level relay board and connect the contacts of the relay between the VFD's DC Common (DCM) port and the VFD input (DI1-6) port.

Of course, you could also use a mosfet or other transistor as a "solid state" switch, but with a relay you can be assured that the VFD will be isolated completely from the Arduino. Many industrial PLCs that would control a VFD such as this have "relay outputs" that do just this.

Yeah I have a Weller WLC100 that I like a lot. Most of my other tools are dime store pliers, snippers and strippers. I wouldn't mind upgrading some of those. I do have a PanaVise 300 on the list too since this one is a pain for electronics soldering.

This one?

lights, Arduino, Power Supply

​

So from my understanding, I hook the Arduino up to PC, upload, then load the code in there. After that, connect all those to power supply.

Now my question is what do I connect the power supply to?

can you refer me to a diagram on how to connect the leds to power supply, or show me a pic of yours?

​

also what do you think of the lights?

Since I am also a begginner, what is the difference between this
aliexpress!

and this [kuman!] (https://www.amazon.com/Kuman-Complete-Tutorial-Components-breadboard/dp/B016D5KUHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486695798&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino+uno+starter+kit+kuman)

kuman for Arduino Project Complete Starter Kit with Detailed Tutorial and Reliable Components for UNO R3 Mega 2560 Robot Nano breadboard Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016D5KUHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BWpHzbF060GVZ

Getting Started with Arduino
http://www.amazon.com/Getting-Started-Arduino-Massimo-Banzi/dp/1449309879/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373826672&sr=8-1&keywords=getting+started+with+arduino

Arduino Cookbook
http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Cookbook-Michael-Margolis/dp/1449313876/ref=sr_ob_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373826622&sr=8-2

I highly suggest this book

AVR Programming: Learning to Write Software for Hardware https://www.amazon.com/dp/1449355781/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aYI.AbE33D53Q

I just bought this one, it works for me: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324388172&sr=8-1

I saw this on Amazon for $40.
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4n1Iyb8CPKJY1

I decided to do PWM. If I use a transistor I won't need a heat sink, right? Will I need any capacitors?

these are the parts I've found so far (Other than motion sensors, short jumper wires, and other common items)

Transistor \

Relays/ One or the other, transistors preferably

Wires

Nano Every

Breadboard(s)

Barrel Jack

Soldering Iron

Solder

Lights + Cable - Would the cable work with the barrel jack to provide power for the Nano Every and the LEDs?

Potentiometers

I'm not sure how amazon availability works in the Netherlands, but here is what I bought. I should also correct myself, the book I bought was called Getting Started with Arduino. Though that kit is not as extensive as what necrolop told you to get, it has everything you need to follow the examples in this book. I think this is a great starting point, expecially if you don't have electronics or programming experience (I didn't when I read it). You could probably get through the book in a day or two of tinkering, though then you'll just be hungry for more.

I gotta disagree with this one... Don't bother screwing around, just buy a Hakko 888D.

I picked up this guy a while back... no complaints.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371130948&sr=8-2&keywords=weller+soldering+station