Best products from r/audio

We found 339 comments on r/audio discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 1,636 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

8. Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers with 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair)

  • The MB42X is a demonstration of our designers’ love for the classic compact bookshelf speaker. Handsomely styled with simple contours and modern design cues, the MB42X is easy to place and blends into any room or decor. Its enhanced audio capability makes it a great fit with a wide range of usage scenarios, including living room stereo, home theater surround sound, office background music, or computer desktop sound.
  • Compact ported enclosure houses a balanced woven carbon fiber woofer delivering enhanced transient and impactful bass, and a high performance silk dome tweeter for smooth treble and accurate imaging. Highly optimized 18dB crossover with Zobel network and baffle step compensation yields a transformed sound signature that is incredibly open, balanced, and dynamic.
  • Magnetic front grill system is easy to take off and put on. Leave them off for an ultra clean front baffle with no grill holes to show off the incredibly handsome drivers. Full size 5-way binding posts provide the full complement of speaker wire connectivity options. Hex screws are used throughout for assembly.
  • Home Trial, Satisfaction Guaranteed - Listen for yourself, try them in your home with your music. Place the MB42X along a wall or near a corner of the room for best results. They can be used on desks, book/wall shelves, or on speaker stands.
  • Specifications: Woofer: 4" Carbon Fiber, Rubber Surround; Tweeter: 0.75" Silk Dome; Crossover: 18dB/Octave; Enclosure: Ported; Frequency Response: 60Hz-20kHz; Impedance: 4-8 Ohms; Sensitivity: 85dB 1W/1M; Power Handling: 75 Watts (Each); Dimensions: 9.5" (H) x 5.8" (W) x 6.5"
Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers with 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair)
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16. Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX Certified Computer Speaker System (Black)

  • LEGENDARY SOUND EXPERIENCE FROM KLIPSCH AND THX - The Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX Certified Speaker System pairs the legendary sound of Klipsch audio with the revolutionary THX experience, filling the room with incredible sound for gaming, movies, or music
  • KLIPSCH MICROTRACTRIX HORN TECHNOLOGY makes a major contribution to the ProMedia’s amazing clarity. Their highly efficient design reproduces more sound from every watt of power, controlling the dispersion of that sound and sending it straight to your ears
  • POWER & ATTITUDE - The two-way satellites’ 3” midrange drivers blend perfectly with the ProMedia THX Certified solid, 6.5” side-firing, ported subwoofer for full bandwidth bass response you can actually feel
  • MAXIMUM OUTPUT: 200 watts of peak power, 110dB (in room) – to put that number into perspective - live rock music (108 - 114 dB) on average
  • PERFORMANCE FLEXIBILITY - With its plug and play setup and convenient 3.5 millimeter input, the ProMedia THX Certified 2.1 speaker system offers an easy-to-use control pod with Main Volume and Subwoofer Gain Control
  • PLAYS WELL WITH OTHERS - compatible with your favorite devices, from your TV and computer to your music player and gaming consoles
  • DIMEMSIONS - Satellite: 8.5” (21.59 centimeter) x 4.2” (10.67 centimeter) x 5.67” (14.4 centimeter) Subwoofer: 9.5” 24.13 centimeter) x 9.8” (24.9 centimeter) x 10.2” (25.9 centimeter)
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX Certified Computer Speaker System (Black)
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Top comments mentioning products on r/audio:

u/RapidMMA · 2 pointsr/audio

Ok, Thank you. Here is a similar setup to what I use. My personal one is a bit more sophisticated but nonetheless, these items will certainly get you started and aim you in the right direction.


Let's start with the Mixer:

Your mixer will be your new interface. Rather than plugging one microphone into your computer you'll plug all your microphones into one mixer which then will be connected to your computer via USB.

Microphone - Mixer - Computer

Here is a good starter at a decent price. It'll be your most expensive single piece of equipment (unless you decide to get top tier microphones). You'll be able to EQ and set levels to each microphone hooked up to the mixer before sending it to Audacity (or Audition, Reaper). You can also hook up more than 3 mics, a guitar, your phone, maybe you want to hook your computer up to it to play a sound, basically anything that sends one signal to another, you'll be able to do it with this and record it.

  • Behringer QX1202USB 12-Channel Mixer


    Next Microphones:

    If you're able to hook up a mic cable (XLR) to your Blue Yeti, you can still use that microphone, too. Obviously, switch your polar pattern to cardioid that way it's more directional and doesn't pick up as much room noise. Also, try to point it away from your AC unit. Regardless, since the Blue Yeti is a condenser microphone, it'll pick up more room noise because it's much more sensitive. That's why in broadcast situations you'll always see dynamic microphones such as the Electrovoice RE20 or Shure SM7b. For your own sake, I would do some research on condenser vs dynamic but any website you shop at (or if you go to Guitar Center in person) you can filter microphones by condenser or dynamic. I highly recommend buying yourself 3 dynamic microphones to reduce room noise.

    Here are my microphone recommendations:

  • Cheap - Behringer XM8500 - You'll likely need a mount and windscreen or pop filter
  • Low - Shure SM58 - You'll likely need a mount and windscreen or pop filter
  • Mid - Rode Procaster - No mount, windscreen/pop filter necessary
  • Best - Electrovoice RE20 - No mount, windscreen/pop filter necessary


    Finally, your Accessories:

    You'll need 3 XLR's to hook 3 microphones up to the mixer. I recommend purchasing them from - very cheap cables that last a long time if you learn to wrap your cable correctly.

    Same with your microphone stands:

  • Simple Tripod Microphone Stand

    Most microphones you buy will come with the mount for it. If you get the Behringer XM8500 or the Shure SM58 you might need one of these if it doesn't come with it:

  • Mount

    Also, for both of those mics I definitely recommend buy either a pop filter or wind screen to put over top to reduce plosives. If you don't know what plosives are, google it. You wont need to worry about plosives if you purchase the Rode Procaster or RE20.

  • Windscreens
  • Pop Filter

    One very last thing to mention is headphones. Through the mixer, there is a headphone jack where you can plug headphones in to monitor the mix. However, there is also something called "Main Out" or "Control Room Out" - you can send your vocal mix to an external Headphone Amplifier/Splitter that way you and your friends can all listen to the mix in real time.

    Audacity is a good program but I recommend getting familiar with Reaper The trial version is free version and I think after the 60 day evaluation you're still allowed to use it although it may press you to buy it. I personally use Adobe Audition but that requires a subscription. If Audacity works fine for you, then by all means.

    I apologize for the long post and I hope it's not too overwhelming. Mixer, Microphones, Cables, Stands, and headphone splitter is basically what this whole post is about! Feel free to ask questions.

    If all else fails just find a podcasting kit to purchase from somewhere and go from there
u/Returninvideotps · 1 pointr/audio

It's really, really hard to isolate sound in a room that hasn't been specifically treated for it. A shield like that might help, but you could also find success literally by just hanging quilts or moving blankets over the door. Perhaps even choose a room with a good amount of furniture.

The Blue Mic is a great choice for an all-in-one solution, but you might find better success with a clean dynamic microphone. A popular model for podcasts/radio is the Shure SM7B, which is obviously out of your price range. An SM58 might also work well. The issue with something like the Blue Microphone is that it's more of a condenser-style mic, so it will pick up a lot of the room. Whereas, one of the two mics I just recommended will tend to pick up mostly only what's right in front of the mic. But, for those microphones, you'll also need an audio interfaceto connect to your computer.

With all of that said, I would honestly not worry so much about getting an ultra-clean sound. You'll need to spend more on equipment to achieve that, and honestly, because it's an office and not a treated studio, you'll have trouble. For podcasts especially, as long as you aren't getting noise that drowns out the voice, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how much slack a listener is willing to cut you. At the end of the day, they'll probably be listening to the podcast in their car or on earbuds on their commute. Therefore, a lot of room tone and background noise will go unnoticed.

I hope this was helpful.

u/the_blue_wizard · 1 pointr/audio

Difficult, especially for that money. I would suggest a Headphone/DAC/PreAmp. The USB could feed the DAC which would drive the Headphones, but also the Pre-Amp outs. Though I don't know of any specific brand, I know there are many of these out there.

But that means you wil have to have come active Speakers for non-Headphone listening. The Pair I most often recommend are the Mackie MR5 but they run about $130 EACH. Though there are KRK Rokit RP5 at a similar price, and other brands as well.

Perhaps something like this, though I don't know all the details on the device -

It has Audio Line Outs, so I assume it also acts as a pre-amp.

Actually, the SMSL AD18 looks pretty good. It has Amps built in so you could use it with passive speakers -

The Power on these tend to be over rated, but it should still have very good power for near-field listening.

For passive speakers, the Yamaha NS-6490 are probably good in a room in general, but a bit big and less good for Desktop listening. Excellent speakers for the money if they are not going to be on a desktop.

The Yamaha RS202 Receiver ($150), physically bit larger, but it has 100/ch, AM/FM, and Bluetooth. Though no digital Inputs. Still for $100 you can get the Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC.

In smaller speakers, I think they very good sounding Q Acoustic 3020 sound very tight but with modest bass. Still good for Desktop though. Here is a video review/demo of the 3020 (~$280/pr).

u/JusticeTheReed · 2 pointsr/audio

The AT2020 is definitely a solid choice for Vox. The 2050 is more versatile with switchable modes, but if you are only recording vox, the 2020 should serve you very well at that price range.

A pre-amp is what takes the very quiet, low-level signal from your microphone and boosts it to an acceptable level. Most interfaces have a preamp, and then convert the signal to digital, transferring it over USB or Firewire. You won't be able to use your mic properly without one. (you can get by with a mixer and a soundcard, aka a preamp and a soundcard Analogue-to-Digital converter, but an interface is absolutely the way to go).

However, you can forgo the interface if you don't see yourself going beyond one mic in the forseeable future, and get the AT2020 USB, which is the same thing, but has all of the necessary preamp/digital conversion you need already in the package. Please do note, though, that an interface will allow you to connect any mic, or a guitar, or a keyboard, even MIDI, which, if you have any plans to expand, even a little, is a must.

As far as interfaces go, I recommend focusrite, such as this

What you are describing is commonly known as acoustic treatment. Its partially to reduce reverb, but even more so to "balance" the sound of your room out. Carpeting will help particularly in small rooms with low ceilings. If you are only doing vocals and other smaller projects, something like this will help with that. Either way, you will likely want a pop filter, which helps remove plosives (p,b,s,t).

You should check /r/audioengineering to get the best advice!

u/blackjakals · 2 pointsr/audio

That might work out better than what you have, but if you really want quality audio, you need to invest a little more into it. Getting a proper condensor mic like the Audio Technical AT2020 here would be a great place to start. You would then probably need an audio interface to connect it to like this or a mixer like this. Do your research and a lot of it. There are a lot of good options out there to improve your audio quality, but all options involve investing a descent amount of money as hard as that is to hear. Research, find what you really want no matter the price, and save, save, save until you have it.

u/1369ic · 2 pointsr/audio

If you want to get the most out of your new gear, you should buy a DAC. On-board sound cards are not high quality and you'll be better off getting your DAC chip out of the electrical shit storm going on inside your computer. You can spend anything from $30 or so up to the price of a new house on a DAC. The Behringer UCA202 is popular at the $30 range. If you want a nicer one, I'd recommend the Schiit Modi. And it goes up from there.

As for an amp, opinions vary. Most audiophiles will tell you an integrated amp is better than a receiver, and separates (a power amp and a preamp) are better, and dual mono all the way through is even better (separate amps for the left and right channels).

You could get a craigslist or eBay special and be perfectly fine. If you want a popular and solid integrated, the Emotiva Mini-X a100 is on sale for $170. Emotiva is the kind of the go-to for a lot of budget-minded audiophiles.

Lastly, while those speakers are going to sound very nice, "absolute best" is not only a relative term, it costs a lot more to achieve. Check out /r/zeos/ for a lot of good information.

u/o0jrock0o · 2 pointsr/audio

These are your best bet in my opinion. They will sound better than that logitech system, and probably last longer as well. With the logitech system you are tying yourself down to using their sub, which means that if you decide you want better bass in the future you will have to either scrap the whole system and start over with dedicated speakers, or try to reuse the Logitech speakers and end up with something sub-par. With the Miccas, you can just add an RCA splitter and a subwoofer and be good to go.

If you want even more flexibility, go with the unpowered Miccas and get an amp like the SMSL SA50, which will be more power than you would ever need for those speakers for near-field (close up) listening.

To save a little money now you could also go with the Micca MB42 instead of the MB42x. The MB42x come with an upgraded crossover and according to most reviewers it is very much worth it to get the upgraded version.

If you really want your system to last a long time, you are much better off separating your components. Get a pair of speakers, get an amp for the speakers, and get a sub all as separate components. That way, you can upgrade components individually in the future without needing to scrap the whole system like you would need to do with the Logitechs. This also applies if a component breaks; you can replace one thing at a time. And even without upgrading, you will still end up with a much, much better sounding system for not much more money.

u/Folthanos · 1 pointr/audio

The Swans M10 are very good for their price (currently $90), but naturally there will be much better sounding systems at higher price points.

If you can stretch your budget to around $260, this would be a decent setup you could put together for that price:

u/SubwooferMonster · 1 pointr/audio

I don't live in Europe anymore so I don't know what websites you guys use. I'm going to link what the American version is and you can probably find a website in Europe that has them for near the same price. It's slightly over budget by about 50 bucks, but, I'd be lying if these bookshelfs and amp are not some of the best I've ever put my hands on while still on a budget.

[Amplifier] (,loc:2&gclid=CL6wgqzTs9ACFReXfgod3rAH1w)

[Speakers] (

I use those bookshelfs for my home setup and I also have two 12'' subwoofers under the desk hooked up to 3000 watts. Sometimes, I shit you not I'll walk over to the gain on my subwoofer amp and turn it down because the bass is just rolling, but it's the bookshelf speakers that are producing those lows and I'll be blown away. Music and movies are a great experience and for 60 bucks a speaker It's the best deal as far as sound quality goes. I would put them on mark with some of the reference monitors are use at work.

I used the receiver in a build I did and I like it, functionality is great. It doesn't have a sub out but it has input options and supports bluetooth. I'd get a RCA to 1/8th TRS cable aswell. You don't really need a subwoofer with these speakers, they imitate having a 8'' (50w) sub under the desk pretty much.

u/spokkeh · 1 pointr/audio

Something like the Blue Yeti may suit. It's a multi-pattern USB microphone. If your mixer is worth its salt, you should be able to output from your computer via an audio interface or simply use a line out to a separate channel.

I personally use the Audio Technica AT-2020 XLR version (this also has a USB version) for recording a bit of vocal work, including rap and some spoken word stuff. It works great on voice and acoustic guitars. However that doesn't solve the lack of phantom power. If it picks up too much ambience (which it definitely can) ease off on the gain a bit and speak louder.

A dynamic mic like this Nady may work as well, however this type can be quite sensitive and will pick up ambient noise.

I don't know if your budget stretches this high ($430), but the Electro Voice RE20 is in my opinion the gold standard for spoken word and radio type stuff that isn't a condenser microphone. It's dynamic, so it doesn't require phantom power, it has a cardioid pattern which will help filter out ambient noise and it just sounds fantastic to my ears. Even though it is quite pricey, it will stand the test of time and providing you take care of it, it will hold its value.

TL;DR: No phantom power requirement, not too sensitive, inexpensive. Pick two.

(Just realised the Shure SM58 might also fit the bill, but it won't give you that sexy radio voice. However, you can abuse the hell out of those things and they will still work and ask for more.)

Hope I've been helpful.

u/sharkamino · 2 pointsr/audio

>My dad's 70th birthday is coming up and he just got a new TV, a Samsung 55" Class Q7CN QLED Curved Smart 4K UHD TV (2018). The problem is that he's partly deaf and needs headphones to hear the TV. We need to get both speakers and Bluetooth headphones to work with the new TV. I'm just looking to get 2 speakers (one for each side of the room) and Bluetooth headphones (for my dad). I live in the US. My budget for the headphones is up to $200 and the same for the speakers but if I can get them cheaper, that's even better. He doesn't need the best audio quality, he just needs to be able to hear the TV. Thank you for any help.

Is the reason for both headphone and speakers at the same time because both your dad and mom are watching the TV?

Bluetooth does not usually work with more than 1 headphone or speaker at a time.

As what others have said, FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter will work with the optical out port from the TV to analog RCA Sennheiser RS 120. You may or may not be able to have the optical out and HDMI or TV speakers on both at the same time. Or use an optical splitter to split the signal for headphones and a speaker system.

Another option is an HDMI extractor. You have the wrong analog to HDMI converter and not the correct HDMI to analog converter. The extractor may also allow you to have both headphones and a speaker system at the same time.

For good Bluetooth headphones under $50, Monoprice.

To add speakers to a TV, use an AV receiver with 2 or more passive speakers or a pair of passive bookshelf speakers with an optical input.

One option to get sound from the headphones and external speakers at the same time is to use the optical out from the TV with a used AV receiver with pre-outs. It should allow you to use 2, 3 or 5, sometimes 7 wired speakers and also use the headphones at the same time.

Are you looking for wireless speakers? Denon has HEOS or Yamaha has Muiscast wireless systems.

Wireless is not needed for 2 speakers anyway since the speakers get placed on either side of the TV as far apart from each other as they are from the listener, not anywhere around the room. See Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.

Sound from the TV speakers and external speakers at the same time is duplicative and does not have any advantage. The left and right external speakers should be on either side of the TV as far apart from each other as they are from the listener. Also having the TV speakers on does not add to the volume or quality of the sound. Adding a center channel speaker will allow you to boost its level for better dialog and the center channel gets placed directly under the TV where the TV speakers point to anyway. If you want 5 speakers all around the room, that is surround sound or you can play the same sound from all 5 speakers in mono mode.

See Speaker Placement for Home TheaterHow to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - LifewireHow to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiverr/HTBuyingGuides FAQr/hometheater.

u/adrianmonk · 2 pointsr/audio

Those are regular passive speakers. They do not contain an amplifier (hence no power cord or batteries), so you will need an amplifier to put between them and your laptop. The amplifier makes the signal strong enough to physically moves the speakers. (Your laptop has a weak amplifier in it, but only strong enough to power headphones.)

One popular cheap amplifier is the SMSL SA50. I've never used it, but it's less than $70 and should be pretty adequate for your purposes. A nicer way is to buy a stereo receiver, which will have a remote, better circuitry, the ability to switch between several sources, and more, but those start at around $150-200 minimum. (Although if you are knowledgeable and careful, you can find used receivers on craigslist for far less.)

Anyway, most amplifiers have RCA inputs, so you will need a 3.5mm (same connector as headphones) to stereo RCA cable for connecting your laptop to the amplifier. Then you need speaker wire for connecting the amplifier to the speakers.

u/ldeas_man · 4 pointsr/audio

well to start, those are crap speakers either way. two 3.5" woofers means they will have zero bass, which completely defeats the purpose of tower speakers

second, you screwed up by not doing proper research. most speakers (aka passive speakers) have wire terminals where you connect them to an amplifier

you can buy a cheap amp on Amazon for $20 which will work. but my honest recommendation is to sell those speakers for whatever you can get and getting these Dayton bookshelf speakers and this Lepai amp. it'll sound better than those 'towers' and take up less room. yes, it'll cost a bit more (depending on what you can sell the Monster towers for), but if you plan on listening to anything bass heavy, you'll appreciate the better quality speakers (note: yes I know the B652s don't measure anywhere near flat, but for a layman, they're a good first step)

u/calinet6 · -1 pointsr/audio

Your best bet is probably a really long mono 1/4" cable run of 50 feet (shouldn't be too terribly long for the laptop to power without interference, since "sound quality does not have to be perfect" as you say) with a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter on one end.

Alternatively you could get a smaller 3.5mm headphone extension cord from RadioShack or Monoprice (the latter being preferred, with RadioShack as always being for time-sensitive emergencies only). Then put a 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter on the end of that to plug the speaker into.

Basically, any way you can adapt those jacks to fit the cables should get a signal across for one channel. All you need is two conductors and the right connections.

Then you should just figure out if your soundcard or OS or audio player has the option to "mix down" the stereo to a single channel (mono), or figure out how to put whatever audio you want to play in a single channel. I believe a stereo-to-mono adapter will take everything from the Left channel, so use that if possible.

If that doesn't work, or if it's important to have the data for both channels accurate, you could get a Mixer like the Behringer 502 for super cheap, and plug the stereo laptop into that using a 3.5mm to 2x 1/4" Y cable such as this.

Should work if you just connect it :)

u/wolfcry0 · 1 pointr/audio

Oh ok, I looked through the manual but it's very sparse with any info.

Sounds like it does have inputs you can use, do they look like this? If they do you just need a basic 3.5mm to RCA cable to connect your phone to the system.

>so could you tell me how to use those speakers to work for my phone/laptop? Using an amplifier like you mentioned?

If you don't want to use the main sony unit, yeah you could buy an amplifier and connect the speakers to that instead.

Something like this for a cheaper one that you'd connect with a cable to your phone, or if you wanted a nicer one with bluetooth this would be a good option.

u/Armsc · 2 pointsr/audio

Ok now I have a better understanding of what you're looking for. It sounds like you're only going to do music. If that's the case it makes things a lot easier as you don't have all the sources to deal with. So basically you're looking for a bedroom setup with b channel outputs to the living room. Cool I think I found a solution for you.

  • AVR $180 this a bit older 5.1 AVR but it has B front output at a very reasonable cost. I would only do two sets of speakers right now but if you wanted to could expand to a 5.1 later down the road.

    Speaker options (just some they are many in your budget) I'm thinking towers or bigger bookshelf speakers for volume and less need for a sub right away. Towers won't need stands the bookshelves will unless you put them on furniture.

  • Fluance AVHTB get this set and be done with it. Run the towers in the living room and the surrounds in the bedroom. Easy solution to your problem. Save the center for when you want to go surround sound. The surrounds in the bedroom might need a sub as they don't go too low. You could always get one later on and hook it up to the sub out on the AVR for a 2.1 in the bedroom.

  • Onkyo Speakers get two sets one for each location. I don't think you're going to find cheaper towers that are decent.

  • Sony SS-5000 towers a bit more than the Onkyo but should do well.

  • BIC DV64 or DIC DV84 you won't need a sub with these unless you want one for extra bass. Sold each so you would need two for the living room. Could also put in the bedroom but I think a set of the DV62's in the bedroom should be enough. These should rock.

  • Bic DV62 bookself speakers for bed room or living room.

  • Fluance SX6

  • Yamaha NS6490 should do well in either location.

u/Teerhand · 3 pointsr/audio

Hey mate, i hope this isn´t too late for some advice.


So first and foremost, congrats on a nice pair of cans. your motherboard has a dedicated audio solution, which shouldn´t be to bad in the first place, but to improve upon that i would recommend the fiio 10k

it´s a pretty nice headphone amp/dac combo, which competes with a lot of pricier solutions, and for listening to music and gaming, you won´t find anything better under 200 bucks.


while the guy at the music store is technically correct, the sterling is of course a headphone amp as well, but as soon as he heard the words gaming and pc, he should have known this ain´t what you´re looking return it, thats the wrong kind of need a digital analogue converter, that has an amp integrated.

u/explosivo563 · 4 pointsr/audio

We're gonna need your budget in order to help. But A 2.1 setup is definitley the way to go to upgrade ehar you have. Sell those. They are very popular. If you want strictly a computer speaker setup, a 2 channel amp is probably fine. My bestbuy has a really weak bookshelf speaker selection, but you probably at least have the pioneer andrew jones speakers. They are well reviewed. If you have a nice discount they might be a good idea. Also a simple rule is the bigger they are, the louder and lower they get.

/r/zeos has a good 2.1 guide and /r/budgetaudiophile has great extensive speaker recommendation list. If you want to really rock, the pioneers may not be ideal.

These yamaha are massive bangers to blow your face off.

2 of these would be good too. Smaller.

Smsl amp


But read through the the zeos guide and the sidebars.

u/Overlord1317 · 3 pointsr/audio

That Sony system sounds awful (on display at Frys). The Onkyo one I am not familiar with.

With a hard budget of 400, the Energy Take One system is out of reach as you won't be able to afford a receiver. THe lowest price on that is 370.000

Here is the speaker set I recommend:

I own it. I needed a "hard body" subwoofer as my two toddlers have a nasty habit of destroying speakers. It does pretty well with movies and explosions, a bit boomy and lacking in tightness for music. The subwoofer alone costs 125.00. I'm using the fronts at my office, they sound pretty good for jazz. The fronts and center are identical speakers. The surround sounds aren't good for much, I ended up cannibalizing them for rears that need to be wireless (used with rocketfish) and for a set I hung on the wall for the children's playroom.

I think the set is a fucking great value, even though the speakers range from average to moderately above average. If you don't need the 7 speakers, then get the sub as a stand alone:


and go with four dayton b652s, which is a huge value in speaker-dom.

If you go that route, the daytons have FAR less oomph than the onkyo set in terms of centers and mains, but they are more delicate and precise when it comes to most music. If this is for home theatre, I'd get the onkyo set.

As for a receiver, you have a remaining budget of 150.00-200.00, depending on which speaker set-up you went with. Here are several in that price range from companies I trust, of lines that I know represent quality products for the dollar (not audiophile receivers, but they aren't pieces of shit and the wattage ratings aren't complete shams)

Or if you stretch a little bit, here's one under warranty from Amazon for 225.00 that seems like a great deal:

u/rabidfurby · 3 pointsr/audio

Basically, there's two components to think about. An amplifier takes power and audio input (as stereo RCA plugs or a 1/8th inch jack) and outputs amplified audio (almost always as binding posts or clamps for speaker wire). Speakers take amplified audio as input (again, as binding posts/clamps for speaker wire) and make noise.

Active or powered speakers just means that you're buying the amp and the speakers integrated as one unit. M-Audio AV40s are a good example of this. Scroll down and you can see a picture of the back of one speaker. Power cord, RCA inputs, and speaker wire output to the other speaker.

Passive/unpowered speakers mean you're just buying the speakers, and you need to buy an amp separately. A good example of this is the Micca MB42x and Lepai LP-2020. Again, look at the back of each one to get an idea of how they're connected.

If you want simplicity, go for a pair of powered studio monitors. However, what you trade off with that is upgradeability - because monitors are integrated all-in-one, you can't easily add to them later on.

If you want to go the component route, I'd recommend a 2.1 amp (meaning it has outputs for 2 speakers plus a subwoofer) such as the Lepai 168HA. Add in some unpowered bookshelf speakers like those Micca MB42x, and you've got a great system for less than half your budget. Depending on how much room you have on the floor near your desk, you can also add a subwoofer, either now or at some point down the road. The Dayton Audio SUB-800 for example is small enough to fit under a desk pretty easily, and would still be within your budget.

u/zfa · 1 pointr/audio

As you don't explicitly state that you're using an amp of any kind I'm going to assume you want to run your headphones off whatever you buy? If this is the case I would not go with a UCA202/222. The headphone output is pretty poor - certainly the weakest part of it. If you are plugging into an amp then it's fine but if you're using it to drive the headphones I wouldn't personally bother.

Now, if (and only if) the SPDIF (optical digital output) is still working on your soundcard, I'd go for an SMSL SD793II. This has a better DAC than the Behringer and has a very good headphone amp built in. The only downside is that it doesn't take USB inputs, you need that digital signal from your soundcard to plug into it. This is my recommendation - with the extra lead you may need to by it is probably bang on £50 and worth every penny.

As for alternative solutions, if you could happen to find another tenner then the Fiio E10K would be perfect if your soundcard's optical out not work and you need to hook it up via USB.

If you can't find the extra money and your optical out is buggered, then the SMSL M2 is a good option. Meant for portable use but nothing stopping you using it as you need to.


u/cdawzrd · 1 pointr/audio

I use this and am extremely happy. It's an analog setup and I only use computers, so that is fine with me, but if you want to use it with game consoles / DVD players / STB's, you might want to get an actual receiver (I've heard good things about Onkyo's TX-NR series.

  • Tripath amplifier
  • Dayton speakers

  • Polk PSW-10
  • A RCA piggyback cable setup to run audio to the subs and the mains, not using a crossover on the mains right now but I plan on getting one or building one at some point.

    This setup is really cheap but very very good sounding for the price, plus if you want to upgrade to a 5.1 or something with a receiver later, it makes a great secondary system for a kitchen or bedroom.
u/DieselWang · 1 pointr/audio

At their current price of $109 a pair, the Pioneers are a better value:

However, if you're willing to spend a little more to be in the $200 range, these are a clear step up from both the Pioneers and the Teacs for a desktop setup.

Wavecrest Audio HVL-1's: $200 (use discount code 'jman' to get 15% off the regular price of $230) These are fantastic, tonally balanced and accurate speakers, especially for the price - it makes them a great desktop solution:
A subjective review here:

EMP Tek E5Bi - $225, these sound as beautiful as they look, and the tower versions of these were Audioholics' 2009 Speaker of the Year with performance far surpassing their price:

u/Alkali-A · 1 pointr/audio

When it comes to a good staple dynamic microphone, the one that almost always brought up first is the shure SM-58

and a great starter interface that works with it is this unit from behringer

then you'd only need your own choice of stand, and an xlr cable and you're good to go

and of course, an advantage of using an interface with your microphone is if you want to get a better setup, you don't have to replace everything all at once


you can add to the setup, or replace parts one by one as you wish.

u/Blais_Of_Glory · 5 pointsr/audio

Do NOT get any internal sound card!!! I can't say this enough. People kept telling me and I didn't listed. I bought 2 of the best sound cards and had to return them due to interference. Get a DAC like the Schiit Modi 2 (Modi 2 Amazon link) or Modi 2 Uber and save yourself the frustration and have much better sound.

For speakers, check out the JBL LSR305 (Amazon link) (Amazon link with cables) or if those are too expensive check out the Micca MB42X. They're both great speakers. I got the JBL LSR305 about 6 months ago and they sound amazing with my Schiit DAC. Check on eBay too. I got a brand new Schiit DAC for about half the regular price and they have used ones even cheaper.

u/Critical671 · 1 pointr/audio

I'm not sure about listening to both through the TV itself, but you can output your TV's audio as well as your phone's audio through an audio mixer or an A/V receiver and into a speaker system. A mixer like this or a reciever/amplifier like this would work just fine.

There are benefits for using both. A/V receivers are optimized for home theatre systems (processing both audio and video signals from separate devices, hence "A/V") and can output audio to a surround sound system, whereas mixers are usually used to process audio only (used in music studios/concert venues/home recording.)

For the simple purpose of playing two audio sources at the same time I'd go with a cheap mixer, but if you are looking to upgrade your home theatre system in the future, then maybe consider investing in a receiver. You'll need a set of speakers for either one, and probably adapter cables if using a mixer.

u/blazednconfused86 · 2 pointsr/audio

Oh in that case I would switch up it


Interface - The one you had didn't have Phantom Power (48V), which is required for 90% of condenser microphones, I wouldn't buy an interface without it. Focusrite is going to offer better preamps, expandability, and is just a better offering. Yes this adds +$20 but if I were to compare value add I would say the Focusrite interface adds $100 if not more over the Line6.

Microphone - while that AT2020 is a nice microphone, I wouldn't be an audio nerd if I didn't recommend consider trading it out for a Shure SM58. It's a rite of passage mic, it's going to sound good out of the box, but you can learn how to make it sound even better. It's also going to pick up less unwanted noise (mom yelling that hotpockets are ready, cops bursting in your room when you been swatted.


The boom arm you have will work with any mic so you leave that.


If your budget is strict here's a bundle that has the Scarlett Solo and the AT2020, which has solid reviews.

u/Rhetoriker · 1 pointr/audio

Hey there :) thank you so much for your reply

The reason for which I wanted to go for for an amped signal into onboard sound card was that I wanted to eventually get a good PCI-E sound card for virtual surround sound for gaming. I was looking at mixers like this.

I'm now going to start to look for a USB sound card that facilitates good ingame sound -> virtual surround sound capabilities. In case you have recommendations (I need to make full use of the potential of the Teufel Real Z, I want good audio quality, and at the same time I want to be able to have it calculate virtual surround from gaming audio output), please tell me what you would get!

u/Skeezix · 7 pointsr/audio

Is he a stickler for super high quality audio?

If you're not going for the absolute best, but want something that sounds pretty damn good at a relatively reasonable price, take a look at this

I actually use this on my pc for movies and gaming and even basic music production and I love them.

u/Brandorff · 1 pointr/audio

Fellow Panasonic plasma owner here.

You're gonna need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter) to change the digital signal from the TV (over the Toslink cable) into an analog audio signal over red and white RCA cables. The way I see it you have 2 options.

Powered Speaker Option - $428

u/John2Nhoj · 1 pointr/audio

Can't say what the SUB filter button is for, but the Scott 355R Receiver was made between 1978-1980, long before subwoofers came into play and those were for surround sound systems or AV receivers, not stereo receivers. Even the earliest surround sound systems didn't incorporate a subwoofer in the mix. All they had were two rear surround speakers, not even a center channel. Subwoofers and center channels came later when the systems became 5.1 surround sound systems.

You can add a subwoofer if you get the right type, like this one for instance;

The speaker leads from your receiver get connected to the Speaker Level Inputs on the subwoofer and then your speakers get connected to the Speaker Level Outputs.

Yes you will need an antenna for the best radio sound and to pull in more radio stations.

u/ZeosPantera · 1 pointr/audio

What my standard recommendation is first grab this cheap Behringer usb DAC as it is far superior to all On-Board Soundcards.

Next for amp I recommend either a used dedicated stereo amp if you can find a good one OR this $99 T-Amp

Bookshelves although you will still be lacking in low end will be superior quality mid's and highs. The standard cheap recommendation are a set of $30 Dayton B652's

That leaves only ~$70 for a subwoofer if you think you need one. Even a little 8" will support those B652's to a more suitable level.

u/unicorn_defender · 2 pointsr/audio

First, I'd like to point out that in your situation it would be redundant to run your mic through the mixer and then through another interface (unless your mixer has incredibly awesome pre-amps, which is something I'd argue most Behringer products lack).

If I were you, I'd ditch the $10 mic for a used SM58, and the Behringer usb mixer for a decent cheap interface like the PreSonus Audiobox, or if your budget permits, something from the Focusrite family.

That said, you may be able to increase your sound quality 10 fold just by upgrading the mic and leaving the XENYX. I don't have any experience with either of those products, but they are by brands I would warn any newcomer to steer clear from. Good luck!

u/pppjurac · 1 pointr/audio

On those two, judging by verified reviews build quality is 'meh' and sound quality is mediocre, which is normal for the price. Personally I would stay away from such product no matter price.

If you could get hands on set of used active studio monitors that would be best solution (linear response, mostly good build quality). For such low budget it is really only option - buy used. See how at /r/BudgetAudiophile do it.

Or as honglorn said, get Klipsch set. Save some dollars and buy those a week or two later. It is popular set and works, judging by reviews, quite well.

u/cleanshot911 · 1 pointr/audio

I'm taking a look at them now and they look pretty nice. I've also been looking into the Klipsch Pr​oMedia 2.1​ THX (link here: and it's got some pretty good reviews. Heard anything about it?

u/Janununuh · 2 pointsr/audio

You certainly can go cheaper than that. You’re just plugging in a mic/guitar/headphones yeah? If so you can use pretty much any USB interface with 2 inputs. Should be around $100

That’s your best option, the cheapest option would be to continue using your Yamaha mixer, and to connect the LINE OUT from the mixer to your computer using a cheap USB converter like this:

u/nomnommish · 2 pointsr/audio

If you want to manage 3-4 inputs, you will be better off getting an AVR. Accessories4less has really good prices and options.

An AVR will let you switch between multiple sources - whether they are HDMI video sources (gaming for example, or Roku) or digital audio sources, or analog audio sources. Besides this, an AVR will also amplify the signal, and also has an inbuilt DAC, so you can hook up passive speakers that are a lot less expensive than powered speakers. For example, you could hook it up to Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers for $130, or buy the FS52 floorstanders for $250 a pair (in which case you will not need a separate subwoofer)

Most entry level AVRs will not have a phono preamp. Assuming your TT does not have an inbuilt phono, you will likely need to buy a separate one. You can buy a Rolls VP29 for $50 from Amazon, or if you want to spend more, you could buy Schiit Mani or the Pro-Ject Phono Box - both sell for $130.

AVR plus speakers plus phono - you could still pull this off for under $500 and get decent sound quality. You can also look at used AVRs - they can often be had for half price or less (especially if they are slightly older - as AVRs are all about latest and greatest features - so now, AVRs that do not support 4k will sell for steep discounts). Look at usaudiomart for example.

u/triple_platinum · 4 pointsr/audio

Not sure what perspectives you are looking for but here are my thoughts. :)

I am more on the Pro Audio/recording side of things but you can run the music from anything that plays YouTube and get a mic/interface that can be plugged into any pro system. (Your living room setup can become a karaoke machine)

The standard mic for live is a Shure SM58 which is not too expensive. Then you can get a used audio interface to run the sound from your computer. For example the PreSonus AudioBox USB. Granted, you would need speakers but could plug into your current home Audio system or buy a bundled system with a mic, interface, and speakers, etc.

The advantage of using the computer is you can easily record her singing! Just another route to consider, although I suppose the appeal to a machine is simplicity and having it all in one box.

u/phineas1134 · 1 pointr/audio

Yep, nomnommish gave you great advice for a budget system to listen to CDs if you don't need tons of power. Another speaker option that might work well for this setup would be these Dayton B652s.

Good luck with your system. Let us know how it works out for you.

u/ecstatic_waffle · 2 pointsr/audio

Some reference monitors would probably be a good place to start. I'm not as familiar with those vs passive speakers and I'm not familiar with pricing in your currency, so maybe someone else can chime in with some better recommendations.

But something like this:

Thatd probably be your best launchpad to start doing some research about what will work for you.

u/crapinet · 1 pointr/audio

Very cool. I wasn't 100% sure those existed until I looked. Something like this will only work with powered studio monitors (not passive ones, those would require a separate amp).

This is a much nicer suggestion than that other one I looked up - both of these were just quick Google searches, not well researched on my part.

And the cheapest mixer you could go with

Although, honestly, I'm not sure I'd get a behringer for something that I would trust to be on all the time. Their build quality isn't great (they're the cheapest for a reason). If it were me, I would get that $50 rolls above. It's simple, unpowered, and will probably be reliable for decades and the extra inputs and volume attenuation would make it far more usable. Just my 2 cents!

u/CaptainRaptor · 1 pointr/audio

Hundred bucks won't get you too much pro gear or pro-sumer, but this is what I use just for gaming/music/etc. - nothing involving any serious 'critical listening'. But I really like them, and I actually shopped around and found them for 80 bucks partially used/like new, and I'm pretty happy with the results.

u/krilu · 1 pointr/audio

Then mostly you're gonna be doing a home audio entertainment setup, which IDEALLY, you would want a receiver. But good ones can be expensive.

Actually I would recommend a really simple device for this and just get this

u/king_of_the_ayleids · 5 pointsr/audio

Game engines use their own 3d stereo sound processing so virtual 7.1 isn't really worth much. I would recommend getting an external sound card (DAC/AMP). I would recommend this or this

You could also peak around /r/headphones. There's a ton of discussion there about these things. There's no upper limit to quality or what you can spend on Digital to Analog Converters and Amplifiers.

You could also just search amazon for sound cards, but if you're only using it for headphones make sure you're not wasting money on cards that have speaker outputs. The one's I recommended aren't cheap, but you will appreciate the quality.

u/nmahzari · 2 pointsr/audio

I don't know if they're still available but a while ago I got a Polk PSW505 which is now discontinued. They used to sell for $5-600 but after they were discontinued, they were still being sold new-in-box for $199. I got one at that price and it's pretty damn nice, it won't play low enough to handle m.A.A.d city but it's about as good of a sub as you can get at that price.

Just checked, Amazon still has them:

I would also look into this:

and this:

u/ChrisRK · 1 pointr/audio

That makes it easier. You can try the simplest solution first, use an AUX cable from the line out on the second PC into the line in on the primary and enable "Listen to this device" under Windows audio settings.

If you want to use hardware, you can get small stereo mixers in varying prices. There are passive mixers that could lower the volume on the stereo channel and active mixers that can keep the volume but also boost it.

Those are the best results I could weed out on Amazon that has stereo channels but I have no clue about the quality of those mixers as I have never used either of them. You will also need 3 pairs of 3.5mm to RCA cables, two for the computers and one for the headphone.

u/todays-tom-sawyer · 2 pointsr/audio

Okay. So if I understand correctly your cable only has one 1/4" connector, right? Something like this: ?

If so, the issue is that you're trying to connect your PC's stereo output (meaning it has two channels, left and right) into a balanced input (a more advanced for of a mono one channel input. Look up balanced signal if you want to learn more). The mixer input is not designed to handle a stereo signal, so it won't process it correctly.

Ideally, you should use a cable that has two 1/4" connectors (one for the left and one for the right) like this: and plug them into 2 separate channels on your mixer.

u/asplodzor · 1 pointr/audio

We're going to need more information to be able to help you.

What are you trying to accomplish? It sounds like you might want a mixer with [at least] one mic input and be able to control the volume of two separate outputs from it. Is that correct?

If so, nearly any mixer will work. Here's one: The Main Outs are two mono outputs controlled by one knob on the bottom right. The Phones output is a second stereo output controlled by the other knob on the bottom right. Since it sounds like you only want a single mic, the signal is already mono, so either output will work the same.

u/2old2care · 1 pointr/audio

For inexpensive speakers, I've been knocked out by these for the price. Sound good on music or TV audio, reasonably efficient, nice bass. Also nice size and wife-pleasing.

u/Ghost_Pack · 3 pointsr/audio

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.


If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.


If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).


If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

u/davdev · 6 pointsr/audio

None of the above.

At your price range don't expect much. Something like this will be much better than any of those though:

Amp, speakers. Then save some more money and buy this sub in the future. Not going to be a world better, but much better than what you posted.

u/somuchflannel · 1 pointr/audio

Update: the radioshack switch didn't work at all. For whatever reason the audio coming in on its RCA video input didn't trigger it to auto-select.

What I did find, though, is an equally good solution that works for my case. Since I only plan on having a single input playing at a time, I can use a mixer to achieve the same goal. All inputs all the time, instead of playing just the one with music on.

Similar incongruous options compared to what I want, but at least options are out there. Most seem targeted at 1/4" and Mono inputs/ouputs. A lot have 1 set of stereo-capable RCA inputs, but I specifically need (at a minimum) 2 sets of stereo RCA inputs. I could also use an adapter to convert to stereo 1/4", but pretty sure all the 1/4" inputs are mono. Here are some examples that might work:

Looked good at first, but complaints that the output is too weak (it's passive apparently)

3 stereo RCA inputs & stereo RCA output:

Has 2 RCA stereo inputs, but A/C adapter is sold separately and it's radioshack brand...

u/nrfx · 4 pointsr/audio

BIC America F12 for $183.45 I paid about $250 for it about 6 months ago.

There is a pretty good chance I have the same receiver as you.

This sub shakes my entire 1800sqft house. It gets uncomfortably loud with plenty of power to spare.

FYI, if your receiver is anything like mine, you will have to set the front channel speaker type to "small" in order to get output to the sub in a 2.1 configuration, or you will have to set the output mode to 5/7 channel stereo.

u/DublinBen · 2 pointsr/audio

The easiest solution to this might just be a $30 USB DAC, like the Soundblaster X-Fi Go or Behringer UCA202. They'll easily let you record two channels of audio, and monitor it with standard headphones.

u/aeon_orion · 2 pointsr/audio

All of these will work fine for what you need them for. The Rode one would probably sound the best for talking/VoiceOver but its slightly more expensive.

USB Mics:

Blue Yeti
Rode Podcaster

Pop Filter:
Filter 1
Filter 2

Mic Stand:
Mic Stand 1
Mic Stand 2 more expensive but a good stand.

u/super_not_clever · 1 pointr/audio

I haven't personally heard them, but you can search for video reviews of the AT2020 USB and Blue Snowball.

Both have generally good reviews, and the Blue Snowball is relatively cheap. Hell, you can get it, a pair of headphones, a stand and a pop filter for $90. Not that the headphones are going to be any good, but it's somewhere to start.

Anyways, both mics have USB so they can be plugged directly into your laptop. Good luck

u/sik-sik-siks · 1 pointr/audio

If you can, go down to somewhere that sells all the speakers you are considering, bring along some of your own music that you know well, and listen to each set of speakers until you decide which pair sound the best to you. Different people will hear things differently and you can't always trust a review to be right for your ears. Reviews are good for things like general build quality of the device and things like that.

I'd go with the mini to 1/4" cables. No need for TRS because the mini end is unbalanced by default anyway.

You don't need anything else to hook these speakers up. No interfaces required. The audio output from the MB is already doing that work for you.

u/AverageJoeAudiophile · 2 pointsr/audio

Well I'm still learning a lot, but I've had experience with them and some of the other budget offerings.

In the $70 range you're best bets are the Dayton B652 and the Micca MB42X and then used any decent stereo amp you already have or find something on CL or buy a Lepai 2020A

u/Umlautica · 3 pointsr/audio

This will do the trick: 1/8" TRS to dual 1/4" TS.

Here is a setup tip:

  1. Turn the gain on the monitors all the way down to the minimum.
  2. Turn the volume on the Mac all the way up to 100%.
  3. Start playing a song (you should not hear anything).
  4. Slowly turn up the gain on the monitors until it gets as loud as you would ever want it.
  5. Done.
u/lomelyo · 2 pointsr/audio

Don't connect anything to it other than passive speakers. Other than that it's not a bad item to own. I wouldn't recommend selling it.

You can get nice bookshelf speakers for under $100 dollars and they will sound excellent.

u/Insxnity · 1 pointr/audio

This combo has been very nice for me. Input for my PS4, Alexa, PC (through usb), and phone audio.

Here’s a diagram I made on my phone. Running audio for an event at the moment.

Plug the usb card into your PC. plug the items into the mixer. Plug the Audio output from the mixer into the IN channel on the usb audio card. Flip on the “Monitor audio” switch. Plug your headphones into the convenient jack on the USB audio card.


only buy the usb audio card. You don’t need a mixer. Get a 3.5mm stereo to RCA stereo (headphone jack to red white cable). Plug this into the in slots on the usb audio card. Plug the card into PC. Plug headphones into jack on the card. It has a volume knob on headphones that will let you control it.

I would heavily recommend the usb audio card I linked. If you want more versatility, grab a mixer too. Message me if you do grab anything and need help setting it up.


BEHRINGER U-Control Uca202 Ultra Low-Latency 2 In/2 Out Usb/Audio Interface With Digital Output

u/swinegums · 2 pointsr/audio

I definitely want my speakers to be running through a DAC if I have one, but thanks for the input. This was recommended by Zeos so I'm going to try it and see how it goes.

How do you find the Fiio E7? Is there any background noise/interference when using it with headphones?

u/danghe · 1 pointr/audio

I never seen a motherboard to have a decent dac. It would be best if you take an external soundcard/amplifier. This is very cheap and very good for the money:

u/epo916 · 2 pointsr/audio

Yes, you could leave the receiver on, it would use a lot of power though. You can get a cheap digital amp that would be much more efficient, like this:

u/ilikemonkeys · 1 pointr/audio

if you're not a discerning listener, then really any amp will work for you. The only amps that I know of that have a lot of analog volume wheels are the FiiO brands. They're actually pretty reasonable for what you get. here's one for 75 buck that would fit your need quite well.

u/Sergovsky · 1 pointr/audio

Thank you so much, very informative and helpful, now that I look at a picture of the back panel as I don't have the monitors in front of me, inconveniently enough- it's not a 3.5mm to rca I have it's the one that goes to 2 quarter inch cables and are plugged into the "balanced" slot! Sorry that I mislead, but could I get some help on this setup?

This is the current setup with two monitors:

Will the XLRs work in this case?

u/Oondin · 1 pointr/audio

I have no idea about the bm-600. However I myself use the AT2020 and love it. Fantastic audio quality, and not all that expensive all things considered. There is also an AT2020 with an XLR cable if that's what you want for $30 cheaper.

u/The_Sloth_Racer · 2 pointsr/audio

Like others have said, check out Micca and JBL. They both make great speakers for budget setups. If I were you and wanted to keep my budget at around $200, I'd go for the Micca PB42X speakers which are around $100 each (Amazon link) or if you want to go slightly cheaper, the older Micca MB42X are around $80 each.

u/TheCrypticfocus · 1 pointr/audio

Yes my goal is use the mixer to combined my xbox audio and all PC audio (including Skype, Music, etc.) Then plugging my my Audio Technica ath-m50x headphones into the mixer to hear both. The mic I am using is the Audio Technica AT2020. The problem that I am running into is the the people on the other end of the Skype call can hear my Xbox audio when I have in plugged into the channel 3/4 via the [this cable] (

Also the mixer did not come with any software. I have been looking for the properties to my sound card (which I believe is built into my motherboard) and I have found nothing that looks like it could fix the problem.

Lol I am truly sorry that you go stuck helping me. I'm surprised that you haven't just stopped replying. i really do appreciate it!

u/shopcat · 2 pointsr/audio

Your question is pretty confusing. Apparently you are using a computer monitor to play your PlayStation on and want to use Yamaha HS-5 studio monitors as speakers?

Yes you can send audio to the computer monitor through the HDMI cable. You don't say which monitor you are using, but apparently it has a 3.5mm output. What i think you need is a stereo 3.5mm to dual 1/4" or XLR cable. This will split the output to a left and right cable you can plug into your speakers. [Something like this] ( I don't think you even need to use the audiobox because the speakers are powered and amplify on their own.

u/go24 · 2 pointsr/audio

It sounds like you've got the mono output of the AudioBuddy connected to the stereo input of the Fatal1ty. Is the 1/4" plug and/or the 3.5mm plug mono (tip and sleeve) or stereo (tip, ring and sleeve, like a headphone plug)? You should be using something like this:

Just plug one of the 1/4" plugs into the AudioBuddy. Then record on to a mono track.

u/nlp6598 · 1 pointr/audio

Hmm ok. They seem to be a bit high on the price range tough. I found those :


Would there be a major difference with the polks ? Also, i am guessing i would be better to just run a 2.1 setup for music VS using 5.1 in a ''surround'' type of sound since it's for outside.

So far my top pick was those :

u/dieselphiend · 1 pointr/audio

See if you can get some BIC America Venturi DV64's. For the price, they simply can't be beat, and if you want a sub to go with them get a BIC America F12 12-Inch 475-Watt Front Firing Powered Subwoofer. BIC is one of the best kept secrets in the audio world. Oh, and if you're the least bit savy, you'll power everything with a dirt cheap, Tripath t-amp (Topping TP60 or TP41), processed by a Topping D2 DAC. It's the perfect PC/TV/MP3 player setup.

u/Dodgeballrocks · 2 pointsr/audio

If you need a dual male 1/4" to male stereo 1/8" those cables are super common. If you need a dual male 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" those cables aren't as common but still exist.

You can also easily by the stereo audio cable and each of the connectors you need and do the soldering yourself.

u/Bad_Times_Man · 1 pointr/audio

The mixer is a RDL HD-MA35U, here's the link to the vendor page

Which makes the most sense, going from the PC through the TV to the mixer, or from the PC to the mixer? Maybe this breakout cable would work if PC > Mixer is the best (shortest) route?

u/Kaligraphic · 0 pointsr/audio

3.5mm and RCA are just connectors. You can easily convert back and forth with cheap cables.

Get one of these passive mixers: ($49)

And a couple 3.5mm to RCA cables like these: ($2.30) (You might find cheaper versions at your local dollar store.)

u/ardric · 6 pointsr/audio

You should be fine running an unbalanced line level into the balanced TRS 1/4" inputs. You lose the extra noise immunity that balanced signals get, but these are short cable runs so it shouldn't be a problem. Get a PC cable that has a common stereo 1/8" (3.5mm) plug at the laptop end and goes to two 1/4" mono TS plugs at the speaker end, something like this:

There's a thread going on over here about unbalanced into balanced and why this isn't necessarily a bad thing.

u/brazen8 · 1 pointr/audio

SMSL Q5 Pro(Silver) - $115

Topping MX3 - $130

SMSL AD18 - $145

These all get great reviews around here and elsewhere. I think the Topping is the current favorite. They all have a sub out as well as DACs, optical, and analog inputs. Just a bit over your budget, but close.

u/MnMWiz · 1 pointr/audio

That USB will be my choice then in the $30-$40 range. I saw it outputs 125mw@32Ohms, and that my headphones can go you to 200mw. Do you know of the cheapest DAC that can do 200mw@32Ohms? Still not sure how much I want to spend on this, but now I'm thinking I might want to spend a little more so I can get the maximum sound quality, within reason.

I found this one, which does 200@32, and is $75. I assume that's probably the cheapest option?

Thanks again.

u/Ruairi101 · 3 pointsr/audio

Yamaha HS monitors have 1/4inch TRS and XLR inputs (no RCA as far as I know), so if you wanted to use them with a desktop without any/minimal extra hardware, you could get a 3.5mm to dual 1/4 inch cable (like this); 3.5mm goes into your computer's headphone jack, 1/4 inches go into the monitors.

Someone else can probably give better advice on whether or not to buy a DAC/interface. I use HS7s and I plug them into a Scarlett 2i2, which has 1/4 inch monitor outs. There's also a 1/4 inch headphone jack with separate volume knobs, so I can switch between monitors and headphones without much fuss. I'm pretty happy with that setup, but a 2i2 might be overkill just for that alone (I use it for recording from XLR mics as well, that's its main purpose).

If you're using a USB headset, you can keep them plugged in for both of the above approaches and switch audio devices via your OS when you need them.

u/AxisOfAwesome · 1 pointr/audio

you need an amplifier, and a cord to go from your headphone jack on your computer to the amplifier. You could look for old receivers on craigslist, or you could buy a new small amp if you don't want to hook anything else up to these speakers.

here's a relatively cheap amp that people seem to like. Here's another one that's a bit more powerful, and a bit more expensive.

if you want to get really fancy, you could also buy a DAC (like this one). it's a small device that plugs into a usb port on your computer, converts the digital audio into an analog signal, and then passes it on to the amp. Some people say you need one, some people say the one in your computer's sound card is good enough and they are overrated. I have no opinion either way.

u/mobyhead1 · 1 pointr/audio

I found the link to your other conversation.

In that conversation, the other redditor recommends using a TRS to TS breakout cable like this one on Amazon. And you know what? It might work. Maybe the circuitry inside the speakers can recognize and accommodate a non-balanced signal. Of course, it would be nice if the other redditor had addressed this concern! Instead, he gave you a breezy easy-peasy answer. Maybe he's right, and he didn't want to over-complicate his answer for you. Maybe he's wrong. I know just enough to know he might be wrong.

This isn't the sort of question I would want to find the answer to by spending hundreds of dollars ordering stuff I can't return.

If the other redditor can allay the concerns I've brought up--can a non-balanced signal from a splitter cable be fed into a speaker that is designed for balanced signals?--then maybe your purchase will be satisfactory. Absent an in-store test or a bulletproof return policy, I wouldn't risk my money. And I still say he's recommending you spend more money than you need to.

u/nawitus · 1 pointr/audio

I would recommend Behringer Truth B1030a and Behringer UCA202. Add a subwoofer especially if you watch movies (like this one).

u/sofaraway731 · 2 pointsr/audio

The cheapest way would be this guy, but only if you have a line-level output on your computer... which I think most do.

The better option would be to get an audio interface like this, which connects over USB, and

u/The_Kraken_ · 2 pointsr/audio

This cable is what you need for the mixter-to-computer interface.

As for microphone, many streamers use a "Large Diaphram Condenser" microphone. Condenser microphones require what's called "Phantom Power" to power a small circuit board within the mic for it to work. That's the reason that your $20 mic has a power supply.

My recommendation would be to buy something like this Audio Technica mic and get a mixer that has phantom power. This little Mackie board would do the trick. Alternatively, you could buy a "Phantom Power Supply" as a standalone component to provide the power to the mic.

That mic will be more reliable and sound better than the $20 one you picked.

u/TheAudioholic · 1 pointr/audio

I wish I could but I don't have any cables like this . And my room isn't very big, its a small bedroom.

u/darkworldaudio · 1 pointr/audio

How about just a smaller Behringer Xenyx, maybe the 502?.

It does utilise phantom power, but you can't switch it on or off, so if you plug your condenser mic into the XLR port phantom power will be provided, to use a mic without phantom power you have to use the line port (just below XLR), so you may need a different cable (XLR - Line) for a different mic. Bit annoying but it's small, cheap and does what you need. Hope that helps.