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hey cnobilski- I had a similar situation with my dad's old Technics SU-8088. Initially I was running it through a vizio 42"- which had the 1/8" out jack. Then i bought a samsung 55" 8000 series (for a steal of more than 50% off/$400 total @costco) but the 1/8" jack no longer worked for audio out.

After a LOT of rabbit-holing i bought a D.A.C. for $25 that allowed coaxial or tosilink in and has aux/headphone and rca out, and ended up working perfectly. The DAC also has a volume control - it needs to be plugged in, and does not amplify per se, but great functionality overall.

I'm not certain this is necessary for you specific situation- but may be useful if you need more choices for connectivity. 1/8" to tosilink cables are also available. I feel like the optical (tosilink) out provides good sound, but am unsure if adding an extra stage in the signal path (the DAC) lowers the quality and or optical source to analog improves the sound quality. There many more DACs that focus on HDMI in/out as well- but i was using the only HDMI out to feed my soundbar- not necessary now since I upgraded to Wharfedale Denton 80th speakers (not budget friendly, but...so worth it- i promptly returned my ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers- not even close)

Good luck and i hope this is somewhat useful or at least interesting to you. I love the warmth and overall sound of my 2.1 channel system now. It's incredibly satisfying and to echo what so many others newish to "upgraded" audio listening have said- I'm hearing all of my favorite music for the first time again.

PS- because my 8088 was always static-y and due to my ignorance, I wrongly assumed that technics was a bargain brand. Once i did a little research I realized what a monster HQ amp i had. Were you aware that you had such a HQ piece before you hooked it up?

I would take the driver assembly off of the frame (aka remove the thand use an epoxy specially formulated to bond plastic to glue the pieces together. I recommend JB PlasticWeld. You probably want to practice on something else before you try it on your cans, since it dries super quick and you only have one shot at this.

One that has fully cured (it says 1hr but definitely give it a full 24hours), I would wrap the cracked part of the frame tightly in a self-sealing tape. This is a rubber tape which resembles electrical tape but it has no 'adhesives'. What you do is stretch it out as you wrap it and then tightly overlay half of the width over your last pass each time. It will fuse to itself and should support it pretty well. Make sure you have enough clearance to put the layer of tape on and still reattach the driver assembly back on, because once it's one there it's not going to come off without a huge fight (which is the whole point). Again, practice beforehand on something else. I personally use the 3M brand all the time with good results, and it's super cheap. Link.

Good luck.

Does it sound anything like this?

If not, can you record it?

I suspect it's not the Sansui. The headphone out is just resistively tapped off of the speaker out. This means that you should hear the exact same thing through the speakers and the headphone jack.

Connecting the Sansui to your computer has the potential to create or reveal all sorts of interference. The above sample is from a cellphone communicating with a tower, but the computer itself is full of all sorts of noise. It could be that everything the computer attempts to record will have this problem.

Make sure you're using the 'line in' and not the 'mic' connection on the computer. Microphone inputs have a large amount of gain and this will only cause problems if the source is capable of driving line level inputs (the Sansui definitely is).

Try recording from another source, preferably something battery powered that has no wireless capability. If it's not plugged in to anything else then it cannot easily conduct interference. It can still act as an antenna for radiated interference though.

Try using an isolator to see if that helps. This will use a transformer on each channel to break the conductive path between the devices and only pass audio frequencies through. Useful for ground loops but not for radiated interference pickup (like the cellphone example).

Hope that helps.

Remote viewing is now something I'm considering down the line for some of our other conference rooms. So I'm thinking s solution like AirMedia is probably overkill for our immediate needs. I'm still going to have them Demo it for my company because it's damn cool looking and potentially the cost will drop in the next year or two, as the technology improves and matures.

I think I've found a solution that works way better then what I had originally suggested though. Especially since the install has to be as clean as possible.

My plan now is to mount the projector on the ceiling connected to a Wireless HDMI receiver, and have the a 4 or 5 port wireless HDMI transmitter in the middle of the conference room table.

Using something like this -

[Belkin F7D4516 ScreenCast] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NYPC1U?ie=UTF8&tag=thewire06-20)

Then anyone can bring their device in and connect easily. If there's a group of people, then if needed whoever can change the input and display their device on the projector I may still include a dedicated laptop or All-In-one, just to have something always available.

The only drawbacks I can see is the slight compression and lag, due to it being a wireless solution.

Another product that I've been looking into is -

[Netgear PTV3000] (http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Push2TV-Wireless-Miracast-Certified/dp/B00904JILO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395850677&sr=8-1&keywords=Netgear+PTV3000+Push2TV)

The main issue there is that from what I understand the laptop \devices have to be either Miracast or WiDi compatible. We did some initial testing on some of our standard issue laptops using Intel's WiDi compatibility checker.

What we found is that on most of our laptops, everything is compatible EXCEPT our WiFi cards... So who could present wirelessly would be extremely limited.

TL:DNR - basically what you suggested only wireless.

I really appreciate you took the time to help me.

I'm in the basement wich is about 15feetx15feet, sitting approx 1.5meter away from the speakers. I'm not looking for front row concert loud sound, haha. Also, I don't want something that will let me tear my eardrums as I have two daughters that are surely going to be cranking the volume quite a bit.

Would something like this be sufficent for my needs? https://www.amazon.ca/SMSL-TPA3116-Digital-Desktop-Amplifier/dp/B00PXRRM5G/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1487095180&sr=8-17-spons&keywords=50+watt+2+channel+amp&psc=1

Nice radio! I like that it has a power transformer.

You should pick up a book on radio restoration. You will need to replace all of the old capacitors and resistors. Then you'll need a signal generator to align it. All that will be covered in the book.

Once you restore it, give some thought to putting up an external antenna on your roof. External antennas really help a lot - you will be surprised by how good an old AM radio can sound.

but then it is much better for the environment and you don't have to inhale lead fumes. Personally I'd recommend replacing the plug, as long as you have a fairly steady hand those 3.5mm jacks aren't too hard to solder. It's probably easier to replace it by cutting off another jack and splicing the cables, though you might have a bit of a tough time identifying which one is which. You'll get a neater job by using something like this though.

Well you can take off the current drive belt and measure it, typically they are sized in mm. When I was fixing VCRs back in the day, Napa o-ring gasket material worked well. Try Amazon; they’ve got kits of square drive belts etc in mm increments.

GoldenTrading Mixed Square Cassette Tape Machine Recorder Rubber Belt for Repair Maintenance - Black (Packs of 30) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZSU6K8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KlEBDbNND91PR

Checking the ION site they have parts for their turntables but not for your gear. May want to contact them direct to either get new part or at least specs. Mileage may vary. Good luck.

You sure? Someone on head-fi said my readings had to be wrong. So I meant 40 mV, not mW. It looks like my DC mW on my right driver was only 0.5-3.3 which is incredibly low for any amp out there according to almost every guide.

The user manual for the multimeter literally says "DC CURRENT MEASUREMENT"

"1. Red lead to "V(ohm)mA". Black lead to COM
2. RANGE switch to desired DCA range"

So it legit states I should go to the DCA range to test DC current, not DCV. If I'm not mistaken the DCA is top right and DCV is top left on my multimeter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TWTLYQE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't remember if I linked it due to having so many conversations here and on head-fi, but that is the actual meter I got. Again, thanks for your help!

Well in that case I think I'm going to just go ahead and order these from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Binding-Amplifier-Speaker-Terminal/dp/B076J6RTGX/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524335064&sr=8-4&keywords=binding%2Bposts

From what it sounds like that should work, I believe.

Thanks for the help!

Diagnostically, it is ideal to change only one thing at a time, so using the same input as you already use is a good start.

One of these cables will work properly: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

Note that it is 3.5mm TRS to 1/4" TS. That's important. :)

Yeah 28 is probably the exact size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072KGYH1M/ref=psdcmw_495310_t1_B0006O1ZMC

probably a good bet. It's black and red too, which matters. Definitely stranded, it's far more flexible than solid wire.

Im pretty sure ground loop isolation is going to be the right answer. EDIT - especially since you say it works fine with headphones

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Here's another one that works well and is cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/

You can probably start with the Gold as long as there isn't much visible oxidation (no big rusty or green blobs on contacts). Just don't use it to spray out potentiometers, it's too strong and can seriously affect the pot. Their Faderlube series are for that stuff.

They actually make a little kit with a bit of each product, swabs, etc. I'd highly recommend it because you're going to have the right product for different jobs instead of one can of D5 which will probably last the rest of your life if you're not fixing electronics for a living.

https://smile.amazon.com/CAIG-SK-AV35-Audio-Survival-Kit/dp/B00C0NTMPE

You are looking for something along these lines:

https://amazon.com/Converter-192kHz-Techole-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=sr_1_4?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-4

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https://amazon.com/ROOFULL-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Optical/dp/B07142SV1D/ref=sr_1_3?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-3

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Or, if you are insane & wealthy:

https://www.berkeleyaudiodesign.com/alpha-dac-reference-series-3

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p.s. I believe you will need something like this if you don't have it already:

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https://amazon.com/JSAUX-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B07D8M5DML/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

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https://amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

That's not crazy high, but I was able to buy a kit with 3 types of Deoxit and other cleaning supplies for around $20 from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-SK-AV35-Audio-Survival-Kit/dp/B00C0NTMPE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00